J.  R.  BOWMAN'S 


ILL  USTBA  TED 


The  handsomest  Guide  Book  in  the  world !  Every  traveler  needs  it  !  Buy  the  best!  Adams  &  Bishop's  Illustrated 
Trans-Continental  Guide  of  the  Pacific  Railroad,  Scenery  of  the  Far  West,  Pleasure  Resorts,  Mines  and  Lands  of  California, 
Ut»h,  The  Black  Hills,  Idaho,  Nevada,  and  the  Pacific  Coast.  The  most  wonderful  book  of  Western  Scenery  ever  known. 
S2O.OOO  worth  of  engravings  Full  of  Grand  Illustrations  of  Scenery.  It  describes  every  Railroad  Station  of  the  Union 
and  Central  Pacific  Railroads  for  2,5OO  miles.  .Tells  you  Where  to  Go,  What  to  See,  Where  to  Sport  and  Fish,  all  about 
the  Pleasure  Resorts,  Springs,  Lakes,  Mountains,  Mines.  Lands,  and  every  place  that  will  interest  you  on  your  Overland 
Trip.  878  pages,  price  $1.50,  flexible  covers. .  Railroad  Etiitiou,  $2.00,  full  cloth,  3SJO  pages. 

TOURISTS'  MAP  OF  COLORADO. 

Endorsed  by  PROF.  HA.YDEN  as  the  most  accurate  Map  of  the  State  ever  published.  Contains  all  the  Hayden  Surveys, 
and  is  the  handsomest  Western  Map  ever  seen.  Contains  the  elevation  of  every  Mountain  Peak,  Pass,  and  Lake  in  the 
State,  every  Road  and  Trail,  County  Boundaries.  Cities.  Towns,  ami  Post  Offices.  The  only  complete  Map  of  Rivers, 
Streams,  Lakes,  Railroads,  and  Routes  to  the  Health  and  Pleasure  Resovis  and  Mines  of  all  portions  of  the  State.  Its  geo- 
graphical surveys  of  the  San  Juan  Mining  Region  have  been  of  unusual  detail,  completeness,  and  accuracy.  Price,  50 
cents,  paper  covers. 

Tourists9  Guide  to  the  San  Juan  Mines. 

Contains  full  description  of  all  the  Mining  localities  discovered  within  the  past  two  years,  their  extraordinary  richness, 
and  Routes  of  Travel  thither.  Full  of  information  of  practical  importance  to  every  miner  and  traveler  ;  nl^o  describes  the 
following  topics  :  Beauty  of  Scenery.  Hot  Springs,  \Vagon  Wheel  Gap.  Elevation  of  Mountains,  Towns,  Rates  of  Fare, 
Expenses  of  Living.  Prices  Paid  for  Ore,  Miners'  Outfits,  The  Famous  Pagosa  Springs,  Freight  Charges.  Reduction  Works, 
How  to  Locate  a  Claim,  Market  Prices  of  Goods  in  principal  towns  of  San  Juan,  etc.,  etc. ;  all  about  the  new  Mines*  at  l,ake 
City,  Silverton.  Ouray,  Mineral  City,  Parrott  City,  and  Rosita  ;  Mining  Laws  of  the  United  States,  and  of  Colorado  ;  all,  in 
fact  that  a  Miner  can  possibly  wish  to  know.  Accompanied  with  a  handsome  colored  MAP  OF  ROUTES  TO  COLORADO 
FEOM  THE  EAST.  Price,  50  cents,  paper  covers. 

All  the  above  Guides  and  Maps  for  sale  on  all  Railroad  Trains  in  the  West,  or  sent  by  mail,  on  receipt,  of  price,  by 
addressing 

3.  R.  BOWMAN,  Publisher, 

46  Beekman  St.,  Hew  York. 


Also  for  sale  at  PUBLISHERS'  AGENCIES, 


BARKALOW  BROS.. 

Omaha,  Neb. 

JANSEN,  McCLURG  &  CO., 
Chicago,  111. 


RICHARDS  &  CO., 

Denver,  Col. 

AM.  TRACT  SOC., 

San  Franciseo,  Cal. 


E.  DENISON, 

Sacramento,  Cal. 

TRUFNER  &  CO., 

London,  Fug. 


THE   MOST   BEAUTIFUL   BOOK    OF   WESTERN    SCENERY 


ISSTJKD. 


The  Most  Complete,  Accurate  and  Reliable  Trans- 
continental Guide  Ever  Known. 


Officially  Endorsed  by  the  Pacific  R.  B.  Companies. 


TESTIMONIALS. 


GENERAL  TICKET  OFFICE  UNION  PACIFIC  R.  R.  I 

Omaha,  Neb. 

Having  examined  the  proof-sheets  and  illustrations  of 
your  new  "  Pacific  Tourist,  and  Guide  of  Travel  Across  the 
( 'outwent,"  we  take  pleasure  in  saying  that  the  book  con- 
veys more  detailed  information  of  the  Union  and  Central 
Pacific  R.  R  Line,  and  the  Country  through  which  it  passes, 
than  any  publication  of  similar  character  we  have  ever  seen. 
To  those  intending  to  settle,  the  miner,  the  tourist,  the 
health  and  pleasure  seeker,  it  is  an  especially  valuable  and 
reliable  guide.  Hoping  it  will  find  the  ready  sale  it  merits, 
we  are  yours  truly, 

THOS.  L.  KIMBALL,  G.  P.  and  T.  Agent 

LAND  DEPARTMENT  UNION  PACIFIC  R.  R.  Co.  I 
Omaha,  Neb..  ) 

I  have  examined  the  prospectus  and  proof-sheets  of  your 
"  Pacific  Tourist,"  and  can  state  without  hesitation  that  the 
work  meets  my  unqualified  approval.  Your  book  will  sup- 
ply a  long  felt  want  for  a  complete  and  reliable  Guide  to 
those  crossing  the  Continent.  I  am  glad  you  have  under- 
taken such  a  work;  very  few  are  so  well  qualified  by  per- 
sonal experience  and  observation  of  this  great  region,  to 
know  its  attractions  and  resources. and  able  to  present  them 
in  a  clear  and  concise  manner.  Your  work  has  my  most 
hearty  commendation,  and  I  am  confident  you  will  have 
the  abundant  success  your  enterprise  and  efforts  deserve. 
Yours  truly,  O.  F.  DAVIei,  Land  Com. 

PULLMAN  PACIFIC  CAR  Co.  I 
Omalia,  Neb.  1 

I  am  glad  to  know  that  you  have  decided  to  publish  a  com- 
prehensive and  complete  work  for  the  guidance  of  the 
thousands  who  vNit  our  Western  country  in  pursuit  of 
health  and  pleasure,  and  I  will  say  in  all  sincerity  that  I 
know  of  no  person  more  competent  than  yourself  for  this 
work,  and  I  hope  your  fondest  expectations  will  be  more 
than  realized. 

Yours  truly,  L.  M.  BENNETT,  Supt. 

CENTRAL  PACIFIC  R.  R. ) 
San  Francisco,  Cal. 

We  take  pleasure  in  noticing 

your  efforts  in  the  publication  of  anew  and  improved  Guide 
and  Hand  Book  for  the  use  of  regular  passengers  and  tour- 
ists traveling  over  the  Overland  or  Pacific  R.  R.  Line,  and 
to  places  of  resort,  interest  or  curiosity  in  California  and 
Nevada.  From  proofs  of  your  work  which  we  have  exam- 
ined, we  judge  that  the  same,  when  complete,  will  prove 
satisfactory  to  the  public,  and  we  trust  that  it  will  meet  with 
ready  sale.  Very  respectfully, 

T.  H.  GOODMAN,  G.  P.  A.  and  T.  A. 
I  cheerfully  endorse  the  above. 

A.  N.  TOWNE,  Gen'l  Suet. 


UNION  PACIFIC  R.  R.  Co.,  CHIKF  ENGINEER'S  OFFICE,  » 
23  Nassau  street,  New  York. 

I    am    exceedingly  well 

pleased  with  The  Pacific  Tourist;  the  illustrations  are  of 
remarkable  beauty,  and  the  descriptions  of  scenery  are 
very  interesting. 

It  is  in  all  respects  the  best  volume  yet  produced,  relat- 
ing to  Travel  and  Scenery  of  the  Far  West;  and  of  the 
Pacific  Railroad,  in  particular,  it  is  undoubtedly  the  most 
full,  accurate  and  complete  Guide  I  have  ever  seen. 

I  consider  it  indispensable  to  every  traveler  to  Califor- 
nia; a  great  credit  to  the  country,  the  Publisher,  mid  the 
Railroad.  (digued,)  T.  SICKELS,  Chief  Engineer. 


CHICAGO,  BURLINGTON  &  QUINCY  R.  R.  I 
Chicago.  I 

Having  carefully  examined  your  "Pacific  Tourist"  and 
Guide  across  the  Continent,  I  have  no  hesitation  in  pro- 
nouncing it  a  "grand  xuecess." 

It  is  full  of  interesting  information  and  valuable  statis- 
tics, and  I  cheerfully  recommend  it  to  the  Traveler  and 
Tourist. 

D.  W.  HITCHCOCK,  Gen'l  Passenger  Agent. 


CHICAGO,  ROCK  ISLAND  &  PACIFIC  R.  R.  1 

Chicago, 

I  am  in  receipt  of  your  Illustrated  Trans.  Continental  R. 
R.  Guide,  and  will  say  that  it  is  the  handsomest,  most  com- 
plete, accurate  and  reliable  Overland  Guide  that  I  have  yet 
seen.  The  Engravings  ave  well  executed,  and  the  scenery 
selected  for  Illustrations  the  finest  011  the  route. 

I  am  confident  that  y'jur  efforts  to  furnish  Tourists  with 
a  correct  and  readahio  Guide,  will  insure  its  success. 

A.  M.  SMITH,  Gen'l  Passenger  Agent. 


CHICAGO,  BURLINGTON  &  QUINCY  R.  R.  I 

Chicago, 

Allow  m?  to  express  a  hearty  appreciation  of  your 
"  Pacific  Tourist." 

As  a  Guide  to  the  Pacific,  it  is  far  in  advance  of  any 
other  work  of  similar  character  that  has  come  to  my  notice, 
and  ono  that  you  may  justly  be  proud  of. 

It  i&  replete  with  valuable  information  to  the  traveler, 
aad  so  interspersed  with  excellent  miscellany,  (unlike  other 
so-called  Guides.)  that  the  reader  can  not  fail  to  become 
interested,  and  close  with  a  verdict  of  "well  done." 
SAMUEL  POWELL.  Gen"  Ticket  Agent  C.,  B.  &  Q.  R.  R 
Also,  Sec'y,  Gen'J  Picket  a\id  Pass.  Agent's 

Association  of  U.  S. 


PALACE-CAR  LIFE  ON  THE  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


J.  R.  BOWMAN'S 


OF     TRAVEL, 

FROM 

The  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.. 

CONTAINING  FULL  DESCRIPTIONS  OF 

RAILROAD  ROUTES  ACROSS   THE   CONTINENT,  ALL   PLEASURE   RESORTS   AND   PLACES   OF   MOST 

NOTED  SCENERY  IN  THE  FAR  WEST,  ALSO  OF  ALL  CITIES,  TOWNS,  VILLAGES, 

U.  S.  FORTS,  SPRINGS,  LAKES,  MOUNTAINS, 

ROUTES  OF  SUMMER  TRAVEL,  BEST  LOCALITIES  FOR  HUNTING,  FISHING,  SPORTING,  AND  ENJOY- 

MENT, WITH  ALL  NEEDFUL  INFORMATION  FOR  THE  PLEASURE  TRAVELER, 

MINER,  SETTLER,  OR  BUSINESS  MAN. 

A  COMPLETE  TRAVELER'S  GUIDE 


AND  ALL  POINTS  OF  BUSINESS  OR  PLEASURE  TRAVEL  TO 

CALIFORNIA,  COLORADO,  NEBRASKA,  WYOMING,  UTAH,  NEVADA,  MONTANA,  THE  MINES  AND  MINING 

OF    THE    TERRITORIES,    THE    LANDS    OF    THE    PACIFIC    COAST,    THE    WONDERS    OF    THE 

ROCKY  MOUNTAINS,  THE    SCENERY  OF    THE    SIERRA   NEVADAS,  THE    COL- 

ORADO   MOUNTAINS,    THE     BIG    TREES,    THE    GEYSERS,    THE 

YOSEMITB,    AND    THE    YELLOWSTONE. 


FREDERICK  E.  SHEARER,  EDITOR. 


WITH    SPECIAL  CONTRIBUTIONS  BY 

PKOF.  F.  V.  HAYDEN,   CLARENCE  KING,   CAPT.  BUTTON,  A.  C.  PEALE,  JOAQUIN 

MILLER,  AND  J.  B.  DAVIS. 

ILLUSTRATIONS  BY 

THOMAS  MORAN,  A.  C.  WARREN,  W.  SNYDER,  F.  SCHELL,  H.  W.  TROY,  A,  WILL. 
ENGRAVINGS  BY  MEEDER  &  CHUBB. 

Price,  $1.50  Railroad  Edition,  Flexible  Covers,  332  pp. 
"       $2.00  Full  Cloth,  Stiff  Covers,  364  pp. 

NEW  YOKK: 
J.  R.    BOWMAN,    PUBLISHER. 

1882-83. 


, 

PREFACE, 


"The  Pacific  Tourist,"  first  prepared  under  the  personal  supervision  of  Henry  T.  Williams, 
was  projected  on  an  immense  scale  and  completed  at  commensurate  cost.  It  represented  over  nine 
months'  actual  time  spent  in  personal  travel — over  a  line  of  2,500  miles — getting  with  faithful- 
ness all  possible  facts  of  interest  and  the  latest  information.  Over  forty  artists,  engravers  and 
correspondents  were  employed,  and  the  work  completed  at  an  expense  of  nearly  $20,000:  the 
result  being  the  most  elaborate,  the  costliest  and  the  handsomest  Guide  Book  in  the  world. 
Before  the  book  was  issued  the  Editor  and  his  Assistants  had  traversed  the  Continent  more  than 
thirty  times. 

The  favor  with  which  the  work  was  received  is  apparent,  not  only  in  the  cordial  endorsements 
of  the  railroad  officials,  but  in  the  reception  of  the  work  by  the  public — more  than  a  hundred 
thousand  copies  having  been  sold  in  the  first  year — and  also  in  the  fact  that  similar  books  have 
entered  the  field  as  rivals,  but  no  one  has  attempted  the  vain  task  of  equalling  it. 

That  which  was  true  at  first  is  still  true — viz. :  that  in  this  volume  is  combined  every  possible 
fact  to  guide  and  instruct  the  pleasure  traveler,  business  man,  miner,  or  settler,  who  turns  his 
face  westward.  Herein  are  found  every  Railroad  Station,  and  time  of  the  principal  Railroads, 
all  Stage  Routes,  Distances,  and  Fare  to  all  principal  points;  all  the  wonders  of  Western  Scenery, 
Springs,  Mountains,  Canyons,  Lakes,  Deserts,  Rocks,  and  Gardens,  are  here  described  in  detail. 

The  trans-ocean  traveler  from  Europe  to  the  Pacific  will  find  all  needful  information  of  routes 
on  the  Pacific  Ocean;  and  the  traveler  eastward  from  Australia  and  Japan  will  find  invaluable 
help  for  his  route  to  New  York. 

The  Big  Bonanza  Mines  are  also  described  in  glowing  language,  and  add  to  the  interest 
of  these  pages. 

The  Representative  Men  of  the  Far  West,  who  have  been  the  energetic  projectors  and  sup- 
porters of  aU  its  active  and  successful  enterprises,  are  illustrated  in  our  pages. 

It  is  also  true  that  it  has  kept  pace  with  the  progress  of  the  country,  being  changed  from 
time  to  time  as  the  development  of  the  resources  and  the  increase  of  the  people  demand. 

No  other  volume  in  the  world  contains  so  many  views  of  the  Scenery  of  the  West,  or  conducts 
the  traveler  over  so  many  miles  of  interesting,  varied  and  enchanting  scenery.  With  the  progress 
of  railroads,  new  fields  of  travel  are  opened,  favorite  resorts  are  made  more  accessible,  like  the 
Yosemite  by  the  Madera  route,  or  the  Yellowstone  -via  the  Utah  Northern  Railroad,  and  new 
ones,  like  Monterey  so  charming  (California),  have  been  discovered  and  created.  In  short,  since 
the  opening  of  the  Pacific  Railroad,  there  have  been  developed  an  immense  field  of  mining 
industry,  and  many  new  and  remarkable  places  of  wonderful  scenery  and  pleasure  travel.  The 
attractions  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  Sierras  have  become  world-famous,  and  regions,  un- 
known five  or  ten  years  ago,  have  been  discovered,  which  far  transcend  the  liveliest  imagination 
in  their  scenic  beauty  and  glorious  enjoyment.  Those  who  crossed  the  Continent  once  in 
enjoyment  of  the  scenery  of  the  Far  West  or  in  search  of  health,  can  now  return  to  the  same 
line  of  travel,  and  spend  an  entire  summer  in  visiting  Resorts,  Mountains,  Lakes,  Springs, 
Canyons,  which  were  recently  unknown  or  inaccessible,  but  are  now  easily  reached. 

The  Alpine  Pass,  the  highest  railroad  point  in  America,  with  its  views  of  the  Spanish  Peaks, 
has  been  brought  to  notice  by  the  extension  of  the  Denver  and  Rio  Grande  Railroad;  also  the 
grandeur  of  the  Mountains  and  Lakes  of  the  San  Juan  mining  region.  The  wonderful  richness 
of  the  mines  at  Leadville  is  hardly  greater  than  the  beauties  of  the  scenery  by  which  it  is 
reached,  either  from  Canyon  City,  or  Denver,  or  Georgetown.  By  the  opening  of  the  Colorado 
Central  Railroad,  easy  access  is  given  to  the  wonders  of  Clear  Creek  Canyon,  the  ascent  of  Gray's 
Peak,  the  Middle  Park,  the  Hot  Sulphur  Springs,  the  beauties  of  Estes  Park  and  Long's  Peak, 
all  of  which  are  of  remarkable  interest. 

Special  assistance  has  been  rendered  by  many  persons  which  contributes  to  the  interest  and 
accuracy  of  its  statements,  but  their  names  are  too  numerous  to  be  inserted.  Mention  must  be 
made,  however,  of  Professor  F.  V.  HAYDEN,  the  celebrated  leader  of  the  United  States  Geological 
Exploring  Expedition,  who  has  rendered  valuable  aid  to  make  this  Guide  complete  and  reliable, 
and  written  for  it  an  admirable  account  of  the  Wonders  of  the  Yellowstone;  and  of  CLARENCE 
KINO,  who  also  had  charge  of  the  United  States  Geological  Survey,  and  has  given  a  description 
of  the  Shoshone  Falls. 

THOMAS  MORAN,  who  more  than  any  other  artist  has  drawn  sketches  of  the  Wonders  of  the 
West,  and  ALBERT  BIERSTADT,  the  most  celebrated  of  painters  of  American  Scenery,  have  each 
added  to  the  Guide  rich  embellishments  and  illustrations. 

That  every  traveler  may  have  "BON  VOYAGE"  is  the  labor  and  wish  of  the  Editor. 

FREDERIC  E.  SHEARER. 


Library 


Wonders  of  Scenery  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 

PACIFIC  COAST  AND  THE  TRANS-CONTINENTAL  RAIL  ROADS. 


THE  grandest  of  American  scenery  borders 
the  magnificent  route  of  the  Pacific  Railroads. 
Since  their  completion,  the  glorious  views  of 
mountain  grandeur  in  The  Yoxewite,  The  Yellow- 
stone, have  become  known.  The  sublimities  of 
Colorado,  the  Rocky  Mountains,  canons  of  Utah, 
and  the  Sierra  Nevada*,  have  become  famous. 
The  attractions  of  the  Far  West  for  mining, 
stock  raising  and  agriculture  have  added  mil- 
lions of  wealth  and  population. . 

The  glorious  mountain  climate,  famed  for  its 
invigorating  effects  have  attracted  tourists  and 
health  seekers  from  the  whole  world.  The 
golden  land  of  California,  its  seaside  pleasure 
resorts,  its  fertile  grain  fields,  fruit  gardens 
and  flowers,  have  given  irresistible  charms  to 
visitors  ;  until  now,  a  tour  across  the  Continent 
opens  to  the  traveler  a  succession  of  scenes, 
worthy  the  efforts  of  a  life  time  to  behold. 

Industries  have  arisen  by  the  opening  of  this 
great  trans-continental  line  which  were  never  ex- 
pected or  dreamed  of  by  the  projectors  ;  the 
richest  of  mineral  discoveries  and  the  most  en- 


couraging of  agricultural  settlements  have  alike 
resulted,  where  little  was  thought  of,  and  stran- 
gest of  all,  the  tide  of  travel  from  Europe  to 
Asia,  China,  Japan  and  the  distant  isles  of  the 
Pacific  Ocean,  now  crosses  the  American  Conti- 
nent, with  far  more  speed  and  greater  safety. 

Palace  Car  Life  on  the  Pacific  Rail- 
road.— In  no  part  of  the  world  is  travel  made 
so  easy  and  comfortable  as  on  the  Pacific  Rail- 
road. To  travelers  from  the  East  it  is  a  con- 
stant delight,  and  to  ladies  and  families  it  is 
accompanied  with  absolutely  no  fatigue  or  discom- 
fort. One  lives  at  home  in  the  Palace  Car  with 
as  much  true  enjoyment  as  in  the  home  drawing- 
room,  and  with  the  constant  change  of  scenes 
afforded  from  the  car  window,  it  is  'far  more  en- 
joyable than  the  saloon  of  a  fashionable  steamer. 
For  an  entire  week  or  more,  as  the  train  leisurely 
crosses  the  Continent,  the  little  section  and  berth 
allotted  to  you,  so  neat  and  clean,  so  nicely  fur- 
nished and  kept,  becomes  your  home.  Here  you 
sit  and  read,  play  your  games,  indulge  in  social 
conversation  and  glee,  and  if  fortunate  enough  to 


6 


possess  good  company  of  friends  to  join  you,  the 
overland  tour  becomes  an  intense  delight. 

The  sleeping-cars  from  New  York  to  Chicago, 
proceeding  at  their  rushing  rate  of  forty  or  more 
miles  per  hour,  give  to  travelers  no  idea  of  the 
true  comfort  of  Pullman  car  life.  Indeed  the 
first  thousand  miles  of  the  journey  to  Chicago  or 
St.  Louis  has  more  tedium  and  wearisomeness, 
and  dust  and  inconvenience  than  all  the  rest  of 
the  journey.  Do  not  judge  of  the  whole  trip  by 
these  first  days  out.  From  Chicago  westward 
to  Omaha  the  cars  are  far  finer,  and  traveling 
more  luxurious,  likewise  the  rate  of  speed  is 
slower  and  the  motion  of  the  train  more  easy  than 
on  roads  farther  east. 

At  Council  Bluffs  or  Kansas  City,  as  you 
view  the  long  train  ]ust  ready  to  leave  the 
depot  for  its  overland  trip,  the  appearance  of 
strength,  massiveness  and  majestic  power  you 
will  admit  to  be  exceedingly  beautiful  and  im- 
pressive; this  feeling  is  still  more  intensified 
when  a  day  or  so  later,  alone  out  upon  the  up- 
land plains,  with  no  living  object  in  sight,  you 
stand  at  a  little  distance  and  look  down  upon 
the  long  train,  the  handsomest  work  of  science 
ever  made  for  the  comfort  of  earth's  travelers. 

The  slow  rate  of  speed,  which  averages  but 
twenty  to  thirty  miles  per  hour,  day  and 
night,  produces  a  peculiarly  smooth,  gentle 
and  easy  motion,  most  soothing  and  agreeable. 
The  straight  track,  which  for  hundreds  of  miles 
is  without  a  curve,  avoids  all  swinging  motions  of 
the  cars ;  sidelong  bumps  are  unknown.  The 
cars  are  connected  with  the  Miller  buffer  and 
platform,  and  make  a  solid  train,  without  the  dis- 
comforts of  jerks  and  jolts.  And  the  steady, 
easy  jog  of  the  train,  as  it  leisurely  moves  west- 
ward, gives  a  feeling  of  genuine  comfort,  such  as 
no  one  ever  feels  or  enjoys  in  any  other  part  of 
the  world. 

A  Pullman  Pacific  car  train  in  motion  is  a 
grand  and  beautiful  sight  too,  from  within  as  well 
as  from  without.  On  some  lovely,  balmy,  sum- 
mer day,  when  the  fresh  breezes  across  the  prai- 
ries induce  us  to  open  our  doors  and  windows, 
there  may  often  be  seen  curious  and  pleasant 
sights.  Standing  at  the  rear  of  the  train,  and 
with  all  doors  open,  there  is  an  unobstructed 
view  along  the  aisles  throughout  the  entire  length. 
On  either  side  of  the  train,  are  the  prairies,  where 
the  eye  sees  but  wildness,  and  even  desolation, 
then  looking  back  upon  this  long  aisle  or  avenue, 
he  sees  civilization  and  comfort  and  luxury, 
how  sharp  the  contrast. 

The  first  day's  ride  over  the  Pacific  Rail- 
road westward  is  a  short  one  to  nightfall, 
but  it  carries  one  through  the  beautiful 
undulating  prairies  of  eastern  Nebraska,  the 
best  settled  portions  of  the  State,  where  are 
its  finest  homes  and  richest  soil.  Opening  sud- 
denly into  the  broad  and  ever  grand  Valley  of 
the  Platte,  the  rich  luxuriant  meadow-grass,  in 


the  warmth  of  the  afternoon  sun,  make  even  the 
most  despondipg  or  prosai  ,feel  there  is  beauty  in 
prairie  life. 

On  the  second  day  out  from  Omaha  the 
traveler  is  fast  ascending  the  high  plains  and 
summits  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  little 
villages  of  prairie  dogs  interest  and  amuse  every- 
one. Then  come  in  sight  the  distant  summits 
of  Long's  Peak  and  the  Colorado  Mountains. 
Without  scarcely  asking  the  cause,  the  tourist  is 
full  of  glow  and  enthusiasm.  He  is  alive  with 
enjoyment,  and  yet  can  scarcely  tell  why.  The 
great  plains  themselves  seem  full  of  interest. 

Ah!  It  is  this  keen,  beautiful,  refreshing, 
oxygenated,  invigorating,  toning,  beautiful,  en- 
livening mountain  air  which  is  giving  him  the 
glow  of  nature,  and  quickening  him  into  greater 
appreciation  of  this  grand  impressive  country. 
The  plains  themselves  are  a  sight — most  forci- 
ble ;  shall  we  call  them  the  blankness  of  desolation  f 
No,  for  every  inch  of  the  little  turf  beneath  your 
feet  is  rich ;  the  soil  contains  the  finest  of  food 
in  the  little  tufts  of  buffalo  grass,  on  which 
thousands  and  millions  of  sheep  and  cattle  may 
feed  the  year  through.  But  it  is  the  vastness  of 
wide-extending,  uninhabited,  lifeless,  uplifted 
solitude.  If  ever  one  feels  belittled,  'tis  on  the 
plains,  when  each  individual  seems  but  a  little 
mite,  amid  this  majesty  of  loneliness.  But  the 
traveler  finds  with  the  Pullman  car  life,  amid 
his  enjoyments  of  reading,  playing,  conversation, 
making  agreeable  acquaintances,  and  with  con- 
stant glances  from  the  car  window,  enough  to 
give  him  full  and  happy  use  of  his  time. 

Night  time  comes,  and  then  as  your  little  berths 
are  made  up,  and  you  snugly  cover  yourself  up, 
under  double  blankets  (for  the  night  air  is  always 
crisp  and  cold),  perhaps  you  will  often  witness 
the  sight  of  a  prairie  fire,  or  the  vivid  flashes 
of  lightning ;  some  of  nature's  greatest  scenes, 
hardly  less  interesting  than  the  plains,  and  far 
more  fearful  and  awe-inspiring.  Then  turning 
to  rest,  you  will  sleep  amid  the  easy  roll  of  the 
car,  as  sweetly  and  refreshingly  as  ever  upon 
the  home-bed.  How  little  has  ever  been  writ- 
ten of  "  Night  on  the  Pacific  Railroad,"  the  de- 
lightful, snug,  rejuvenating  sleeps  on  the  Pacific 
Railroad. 

The  lulling,  quiet  life  by  day,  and  the  sound, 
refreshing  repose  by  night,  are  to  the  system  the 
best  of  health  restorers.  "Were  there  but  one 
thing  tourists  might  feel  most  gratitude  for,  on 
their  overland  trip,  'tis  their  enjoyment  of  the  ex- 
hilarating mountain  air  by  day,  and  the  splendid 
rest  by  night.  But  as  our  train  moves  on,  it  in- 
troduces us  to  new  scenes.  You  soon  ascend  the 
Rocky  Mountains  at  Sherman,  and  view  there 
the  vast  mountain  range,  the  "  Back  Bone  of  the 
Continent,"  and  again  descend  and  thunder  amid 
the  cliffs  of  Echo  and  Weber  Canons.  You 
carry  with  you  your  Pullman  house  and  all  its 
comforts,  and  from  your  little  window,  as  from 


your  little  boudoir  at  home,  you  will  see  the 
mighty  wonders  of  the  Far  West. 

It  is  impossible  to  tell  of  the  pleasures  and 
joys  of  the  palace  ride  you  will  have — five  days — 
it  will  make  you  so  well  accustomed  to  car  life, 
you  feel,  when  you  drop  upon  the  wharf  of  San 
Francisco,  that  you  had  left  genuine  comfort 
behind,  and  even  the  hotel,  with  its  cosy  parlor 
and  cheerful  fire,  has  not  its  full  recompense. 

Palace  car  life  has  every  day  its  fresh  and 
novel  sights.  No  railroad  has  greater  variety 
and  contrasts  of  scenery  than  the  Pacific  Rail- 
road. The  great  plains  of  Nebraska  and  Wy- 
oming are  not  less  impressive  than  the  great 
Humboldt  Desert.  The  rock  majesties  of  Echo 
and  Weber  are  not  more  wonderful  than  the 
curiosities  of  Great  Salt  Lake  and  the  City  of 
Deseret.  And  where  could  one  drop  down  and 
finish  his  tour  more  grandly  and  beautifully 
than  from  the  vast  ice-towering  summits  of  the 
Sierras  into  the  golden  grain  fields  of  Califor- 
nia, its  gardens,  groves  and  cottage  blossoms  ? 

Should  the  traveler  return  home  by  the 
Southern  route,  neither  the  richness,  the  vast- 
ness,  or  the  growth  of  civilization  in  the  Valley 
of  the  Platte,  the  transformation  of  the  desert 
at  Salt  Lake,  nor  the  grand  scenery  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  or  the  Sierras,  nothing  on 
the  route  will  make  a  stronger  impression  than 
what  he  beholds  in  the  new  regions.  The 
"Loop" — that  wonderful  achievement  of  en- 
gineering skill — the  orange  groves  of  Southern 
California,  desolation  more  absolute  and  blank 
than  any  the  Central  or  Union  Pacific  exhibited, 
descent  below  the  level  of  the  sea,  numerous 
cactuses,  and  among  them  even  trees.  From 
lemons,  limes,  oranges,  olives,  pineapples  and 
bananas,  he  will  pass  to  a  region  worse  than 
sage-brush ;  to  where  not  even  a  blade  of  grass 
is  seen — the  region  of  sand-storms;  then  over 
mesas  rich  in  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  civiliza- 
tion; then  into  the  rich  grasses  and  fertile  val- 
leys of  the  Arkansas  and  Kansas,  amid  the 
rush  of  emigrants  and  springing  up  of  homes 
with  a  rapidity  like  that  of  the  growing  corn. 

Such  complete  transitions  have  inexpressible 
charms.  And  should  he  stop  "to  view  the 
landscape  o'er  "  from  La  Veta  Pass,  and  receive 
the  delightful  inspiration  of  Colorado's  moun- 
tain charms,  he  will  always  rejoice  that  he  was 
permitted  to  see  somewhat  of  the  grandeur  and 
greatness  of  this  Western  World. 

Practical  Hints  for  Comforts  by  the  Way. 
— To  enjoy  palace  car  life  properly,  one  always 
needs  a  good  companion.  This  obtained,  take 
a  section  together,  wherever  the  journey  leads 
you.  From  Chicago  to  the  Missouri  River,  the 
company  in  sleeping-cars  is  usually  quiet  and 
refined,  but  beyond  there  is  often  an  indescrib- 
able mixture  of  races  in  the  same  car,  and  if 
you  are  alone,  often  the  chance  is  that  your 
" compagnon  du  voyage"  may  not  be  agreeable. 


It  is  impossible  to  order  a  section  for  one  person 
alone,  and  the  dictum  of  sleeping-car  arrange- 
ments at  Council  Bluffs  requires  all  who  come 
to  take  what  berths  are  assigned.  But  if  you 
will  wait  over  one  day  at  Council  Bluffs  or 
Kansas  City,  you  can  make  a  choice  of  the 
whole  train,  and  secure  the  most  desirable 
berths.  When  your  section  is  once  located  at 
either  terminus  of  either  transcontinental  road, 
generally  you  will  find  the  same  section  re- 
served for  you  at  Ogden  or  Deming,  through- 
passengers  having  usually  the  preference  of 
best  berths,  or  the  same  position  as  previously 
occupied. 

Fee  your  porter  on  the  sleeping-car  always — 
if  he  is  attentive  and  obliging,  give  him  a  dol- 
lar. His  attention  to  your  comfort,  and  care  of 
your  baggage  and  constant  watch  over  the  little 
articles  and  hand-satchel  against  loafers  on  the 
train,  are  worth  all  you  give  him.  Often  larger 
fees  are  given.  This  is  just  as  the  traveler 
feels.  The  porters  of  both  Pacific  Railroads 
are  esteemed  specially  excellent,  obliging  and 
careful. 

Meals — The  trains  of  the  Union  Pacific 
Railroad  are  arranged  so  as  to  stop  a  sufficient 
time  for  meals.  In  place  of  dining  at  Laramie, 
there  is  now  a  more  convenient  eating-station 
at  Rock  Creek,  a  little  farther  west.  Its  pleas- 
ant, cheerful  room  filled  with  plants,  and  the 
convenience  of  better  hours  for  meals,  add 
greatly  to  the  pleasure  of  the  overland  trip. 
At  Green  River  you  will  find  the  dining-room 
entrance  fairly  surrounded  with  curiosities, 
and  the  office  filled  with  oddities  very  amusing. 

Usually  all  the  eating-houses  on  both  the 
Pacific  Railroads  are  excellent.  The  keepers 
have  to  maintain  their  culinary  excellence  under 
great  disadvantages,  especially  west  of  Sidney, 
as  all  food  but  meats  must  be  brought  from  a 
great  distance. 

Travelers  need  to  make  no  preparations  for 
eating  on  the  cars,  as  meals  at  all  dining-halls 
are  excellent,  and  food  of  great  variety  is  nicely 
served — buffalo  meat,  antelope  steak,  tongue  of 
all  kinds,  and  always  the  best  of  beefsteaks. 
Laramie  possesses  the  reputation  of  the  best 
steak  on  the  Pacific  Railroad.  Sidney  makes 
a  specialty,  occasionally,  of  antelope  steak.  At 
Green  River  you  will  always  get  nice  biscuit; 
at  Grand  Island  they  will  give  you  all  you  can 
possibly  eat;  it  has  a  good  name  for  its  bounti- 
ful supplies. 

At  Ogden  you  will  be  pleased  with  the  neat- 
ness and  cleanliness  of  the  tables  and  service. 
At  Cheyenne  the  dinners  are  always  excellent, 
and  the  dining-room  is  cheerful.  To  any  who 
either  have  desire  to  economize,  or  inability  to 
eat  three  railroad  meals  per  day,  we  recommend 
to  carry  a  little  basket  with  Albert  biscuit  and 
a  little  cup.  This  can  be  easily  filled  at  all 
stopping-places  with  hot  tea  or  coffee,  and  a 


8 


sociable  and  comfortable  glass  of  tea  indulged 
in  inside  the  car.  The  porter  will  fit  you  up  a 
nice  little  table  in  your  section,  and  spread  on 
a  neat  white  tablecloth. 

On  the  Union  Pacific,  and  Atchison,  Topeka 
and  Santa  Fe  roads,  are  Pullman  cars;  on  the 
Central  and  Southern  Pacific  are  Silver  Palace 
Cars,  all  convenient,  neat  and  luxurious.  The 
dining-stations  of  the  Central  Pacific  Railroad 
are  bountiful  in  their  supplies;  at  all  of  them 
fruit  is  given  in  summer-time  with  great  free- 
dom. Fish  is  almost  always  to  be  had;  no 
game  of  value.  The  food,  cooking  and  service 
by  Chinese  waiters,  are  simply  excellent.  The 
writer  has  never  eaten  a  nicer  railroad  meal 
than  those  served  at  Winnemucca,  Elko,  Battle 
Mountain,  and  especially  Sacramento.  The 
Humboldt  Desert  is  far  from  being  a  desert  to 
the  traveling  public,  for  its  eating-stations 
always  furnish  a  dessert  of  good  things  and 
creature  comforts. 

A  little  lunch-basket  nicely  stowed  with  sweet 
and  substantial  bits  of  food  will  often  save  you 
the  pain  of  long  rides  before  meals,  when  the 
empty  stomach  craves  food,  and  failing  to  receive 
it,  lays  you  up  with  the  most  dismal  of  sick 
headaches;  it  also  serves  you  splendidly  when- 
ever the  train  is  delayed.  To  be  well  on  the 
Pacific  Railroad,  eat  at  regular  houts,  and  never 
miss  a  meal.  Most  of  the  sickness  which  we 
have  witnessed,  has  arisen  from  irregular  eat- 
ing, or  injudicious  attempts  at  economy  by 
skipping  a  meal  to  save  a  dollar.  We  have 
noticed  that  those  who  were  regular  in  eating  at 
every  meal  passed  the  journey  with  greatest 
ease,  most  comfort,  and  best  health.  Those 
who  were  irregular,  skipping  here  and  there  a 
meal,  always  suffered  inconvenience. 

In  packing  your  little  lunch-basket,  do  not 
forget  lemons  or  limes.  Canned  meats  and 
fruits  are  easily  carried.  Bread  and  milk  are 
easily  procured.  Avoid  all  articles  which  have 
odor  of  any  description. 

Lunch  counters  are  attached  to  all  eating- 
stations,  so  that  you  may  easily  procure  hot 
coffee,  tea,  biscuit,  sandwiches  and  fruit,  if  you 
do  not  wish  a  full  meal. 

The  usual  price  of  meals  at  all  stations  over- 
land is  SI.  00;  at  Sacramento  75  cents,  and  at 
Lathrop  50  cents — the  cheapest  and  best  meals, 
for  the  money,  of  your  whole  tour.  For  cloth- 
ing on  your  overland  trip,  you  will  need  at 
Omaha,  the  first  day,  if  it  is  summer,  a  light 
spring  suit;  the  next  day,  a  winter  suit  at  Sher- 
man. Again,  at  Salt  Lake  City  and  the  Hum- 
boldt Desert,  the  thinnest  of  summer  suits,  and 
at  the  summit  of  the  Sierras,  all  your  under- 
clothing. We  can  only  advise  you,  as  you  have 
to  pass  through  so  many  extremes  of  tempera- 
ture, to  always  wear  your  underclothing,  day 
and  night,  through  the  overland  trip,  and  add 
an  overcoat  if  the  air  grows  chilly. 


Beware  of  the  quick  transition  from  the  hot 
ride  over  the  Sacramento  or  San  Joaquin 
Valley  to  the  cold  sea  air  on  the  ferry  from 
Oakland  to  San  Francisco.  Invalids  have  been 
chilled  through  with  this  unexpected  sea  breeze, 
and  even  the  most  hardy  do  not  love  it.  Keep 
warm  and  keep  inside  the  boat.  Thus,  reader, 
we  have  helped  you  with  kindly  hints  how  to 
enjoy  your  trip.  Now,  let  us  glance,  as  we  go, 
at  each  scene  of  industry  where  our  tour 
will  take  us. 

Baggage — All  baggage  of  reasonable  weight 
can  be  checked  from  any  Eastern  city  direct  to 
Omaha,  but  is  there  re-checked. 

At  Omaha  all  baggage  is  weighed,  and  on  all 
excess  of  over  100  pounds,  passengers  will  pay 
15  cents  per  pound.  This  is  imperative. 

To  Check  Baggage. — Be  at  every  depot  one- 
half  hour  or  more  before  the  departure  of  trains. 

Railroad  tickets  must  always  be  shown  when 
baggage  is  checked. 

At  San  Francisco  the  Pacific  Transfer  Com- 
pany will  take  your  trunk  to  any  hotel  or 
private  residence  for  50  cents.  Their  agent  is 
on  every  train;  you  will  save  time  by  giving 
him  your  check.  The  company  is  wholly  re- 
liable, and  your  baggage  will  be  stored  by  it, 
if  you  desire,  on  reasonable  terms.  All  un- 
claimed baggage  on  the  Central  Pacific  Railroad 
is  sent  to  this  company  for  safe-keeping. 
Should  your  baggage  reach  San  Francisco 
twenty-four  hours  in  advance  of  your  arrival, 
look  for  it,  therefore,  at  110  Sutter  Street,  San 
Francisco. 

The  agents  of  this  company  are  also  agents 
for  the  United  Carriage  Company,  and  will  fur- 
nish carriages,  so  as  to  secure  strangers  from 
extortion  and  imposition.  Hotel  coaches  will 
also  be  found  at  the  depot  in  San  Francisco, 
and  their  runners  on  the  Oakland  ferryboat. 
To  a  first-class  hotel  the  charge  for  a  passenger 
is  50  cents;  to,  not  from,  other  hotels  passengers 
are  usually  conveyed  without  charge. 

Horse-cars  run  from  the  wharf  or  depot  to 
all  hotels. 

Transfer  Coaches.— In  all  Western  cities 
there  is  a  line  of  transfer  coaches,  which,  for  the 
uniform  price  of*50  cents,  will  take  you  and 
your  baggage  direct  to  any  hotel,  or  transfer 
you  at  once  across  the  city  to  any  depot.  They 
are  trustworthy,  cheap,  and  convenient.  The 
agent  will  always  pass  through  the  train  before 
arrival,  selling  transfer  tickets  and  checks  to 
hotels. 

At  Salt  Lake  City,  horse-cars  run  from  the 
depot  direct  to  the  hotels;  there  is  also  an 
omnibus  transfer.  Price,  50  cents. 

Hotel  Charges  and  Rooms — The  uniform 
prices  of  board  in  the  West  are  $3.00  to  §4.50 
per  day  at  Chicago  and  San  Francisco;  $3.00  to 
Si.  00  per  day  at  Omaha,  Denver  and  Salt  Lake 
City. 


If  traveling  with  ladies,  it  is  good  policy, 
when  within  100  miles  of  each  city  where  you 
expect  to  stop,  to  telegraph  to  your  hotel  in 
advance,  requesting  nice  rooms  reserved,  always 
mentioning  that  you  have  ladies. 

Carriages. — Whenever  disposed  to  take 
horses  and  carriage  for  a  ride,  look  out  with 
sharp  eyes  for  the  tricks  of  the  trade;  if  no 
price  or  time  is  agreed  upon,  you  will  have  to 
pay  dearly,  and  the  farther  west  you  go  the 
hire  of  horse  flesh  grows  dearer  (though  the 
value  per  animal  rapidly  grows  less).  Engage 
your  livery  carefully  at  so  much  per  hour,  and 
then  choose  your  time  to  suit  your  wishes. 
Ten-dollar  bills  melt  quicker  in  carriage  rides 
than  in  any  other  "  vain  show." 

Courtesy. — Without  much  exception,  all 
railroad  officers,  railroad  conductors,  Pullman 
car  conductors,  are  gentlemen  in  manners, 
courteous  and  civil.  No  passenger  ever  gains  a 
point  by  loud  orders,  or  strong  and  forcible 
demands.  You  are  treated  respectfully  by  all, 
and  the  same  is  expected  in  return.  The  days 
of  boisterous  times,  rough  railroad  men  and 
bullies  in  the  Far  West,  are  gone,  and  there  is 
as  much  civility  there,  often  more,  than  you 
•will  find  near  home. 

Railroad  Tickets. — These  should  be  pur- 
chased only  at  reliable  offices,  and  from  respon- 
sible agents.  The  route  should  be  decided 
beforehand;  the  purchaser  should  fully  under- 
stand whether  his  ticket  is  limited  in  time  or 
stop-over  privileges,  and  how  limited,  before 
he  purchases.  Through-tickets  are  always 
cheaper  and  more  convenient  than  tickets  from, 
point  to  point. 

ROUTES. 

Route  No.  1  from  Boston. — This  is  via 
the  Hoosac  Tunnel,  direct  from  Boston  to 
Albany,  there  connecting  with  the  New  York 
Central.  Passengers  by  the  New  York  Central 
have  choice  of  three  routes  to  Chicago.  (1)  The 
Canada  Southern  to  Detroit,  giving  the  best 
view  of  Niagara  Falls,  and  forming  the  favorite 
route  from  Buffalo  to  Chicago,  -via  Detroit  and 
the  Michigan  Southern  Railroad.  (2)  The 
Great  Western,  crossing  the  Niagara  River  on 
the  famous  Suspension  Bridge,  the  old  and 
well-known  route.  (3)  The  Lake  Shore  and 
Michigan  Southern,  through  Cleveland  and 
Toledo.  The  directness  makes  the  route  a  con- 
venient one,  but  the  scenery,  excepting  Niagara 
Falls,  is  quite  uninteresting. 

Route  No.  2  from  Boston  is  via  the  New 
York,  New  Haven  and  Hartford  Railroad  to  New 
York  city. 

Route  No.  3  from  Boston  is  the  New  York 
and  Boston  Air  Line,  via  Willimantic,  from  Bos- 
ton to  Brooklyn,  at  which  point  trains  are  ^  con- 
veyed "without  breaking  to  Jersey  City,  anc.  run 
thence  iiia  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad. 


Boston  or  New  York  passengers  for  California 
by  the  Soutiiern  route  may  go  from  Toledo 
direct  to  Kansas  City,  via  the  Wabash,  St.  Louis 
and  Pacific,  or  from  Chicago  via  the  same  line,  or 
via  the  Chicago,  Rock  Island  and  Pacific,  or  the 
Chicago,  Burlington  and  Quincy,  or  the  Chicago, 
Alton  and  St.  Louis.  Wagner  sleeping-cars  are 
run  on  the  New  York  Central  from  Boston  and 
New  York  to  Chicago. 

Route  No.  1  from  New  York. — Take  the 
Pennsylvania  Central  Railroad,  which  leaves 
foot  of  Desbrosses  Street,  by  ferry,  to  Jersey 
City.  Three  through-trains  leave  each  day. 
To  see  the  richest  scenery,  take  the  morning 
train  and  you  will  have  a  good  view  of  nearly 
the  entire  State  of  Pennsylvania  by  daylight, 
the  valley  of  the  Susquehanna  and  Juniita,  and 
the  famous  Horse-Shoe  Bend  by  moonlight. 
The  Pennsylvania  Railroad  is  "  always  on  time," 
the  most  reliable  in  its  connections.  It  has 
track  tanks  from  which  the  locomotives  of  ex- 
press trains  take  water  while  running  forty 
miles  an  hour,  a  feature  contributing  to  fast 
travel,  used  by  no  other  railroad  in  the  world. 

It  is  the  true  type  of  American  progress  and 
safety  in  railroading,  and  is  unsurpassed  in  any 
respect. 

Passengers  from  New  York  may  also  visit 
Washington  by  this  route  without  extra  charge. 

To  Kansas  City,  passengers  by  this  route 
may  go  from  Pittsburgh  via  Chicago,  or  direct 
to  St.  Louis  and  Kansas  City. 

The  sleeping-cars  on  the  Pennsylvania  Rail- 
road are  of  the  Pullman  pattern,  and  run  from 
New  York  to  Chicago  or  St.  Louis. 

Route  No.  2  from  New  York — Leave  via 
the  Erie  Railroad  from  foot  of  Chambers  or 
West  Twenty-third  Street.  The  sleeping-cars 
on  the  Erie  Railroad  belong  to  the  Pullman 
Company.  The  scenery  along  the  Erie  Rail- 
road (by  all  means  take  the  morning  train)  is 
specially  fine,  and  at  points  is  remarkably  lovely. 
The  sleeping  and  dining-cars  accompany  the 
train  to  Chicago.  The  route  passes  via  Salaman- 
ca, Atlantic  and  Great  Western  and  Chicago  ex- 
tensions of  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad,  direct, 
without  change,  to  Chicago.  Passengers  also 
can  take  other  sleeping-cars  of  the  train,  if  they 
wish,  which  will  convey  them  direct  to  Buffalo 
and  Niagara  Falls,  where  there  is  direct  connec- 
tion via  the  Lake  Shore  Railroad  or  Michigan 
Central  to  Chicago. 

Route  No.  3  from  New  York  is  via  the 
New  York  Central  and  Hudson  River. 

The  charming  scenery  of  the  Hudson  is  well 
known.  Passengers  by  the  New  York  Central 
have  a  choice  of  three  routes  to  Chicago: 
1.  The  Canada  Southern  to  Detroit,  giving  the 
best  view  of  Niagara  Falls;  the  Michigan  Cen- 
tral from  Detroit  to  Chicago.  The  Canada 
Southern  is  the  great  favorite  route  between 
Buffalo  and  Detroit.  2.  The  Great  Western, 


10 


roi/mi 


crossing  the  Niagara  River  on  the  famous  Sus- 
pension Bridge,  the  old  and  well-known  route. 
3.  The  Lake  Shore  and  Michigan  Southern, 
through  Cleveland  and  Toledo. 

Route  Wo.  4  is  via  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio 
Railroad.  This  company  uses  the  line  of  the 
Pennsylvania  Railroad  from  New  York  City  to 
Baltimore,  but  possesses  the  shortest  line  from 
Washington  to  Chicago  or  Cincinnati.  Its 
scenery,  on  the  mountain  division,  between 
Harper's  Ferry  and  Parkersburg,  is  grand  and 
full  of  historic  interest.  Its  dining-stations  are 
exceedingly  well  kept.  Pullman  cars  run 
through  to  and  from  St.  Louis  and  Chicago. 

California  travelers  choosing  this  route  east, 
will  include  Washington,  Baltimore,  Philadel- 
phia and  New  York,  with  their  numerous 
scenes  and  objects  of  interest,  on  one  ticket,  as 
in  the  caae  of  the  Pennsylvania  Central. 

From  Philadelphia. — Tourists  generally 
prefer  the  Pennsylvania  Central,  the  shortest 
line  to  Chicago,  though  many  often  wish  to 
visit  Baltimore  and  Washington,  and  go  thence 
to  see  the  scenery  along  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio 
Railroad,  and  continue  westward  via  Cincin- 
nati to  St.  Louis. 

They  may  also  go  via  Harrisburg,  Pa.  and 
the  Northern  Central  Railroad  past  Watkin's 
Glen  to  Rochester  or  Buffalo,  and  also  via  the 
Delaware  Water  Gap,  and  either  Syracuse  or 
Binghamton ;  but  the  most  direct  route  is  via 
Pittsburgh  and  Fort  Wayne  to  Chicago,  and 
for  southern  passengers  via  St.  Louis  to  Kansas 
City.  Or  from  New  York  to  Chicago  they  may 
take  the  Pan  Handle  route  via  Columbus  and 
Logansport. 

From  Baltimore  and  Washington.— Tour- 
ists have  choice  of  either  the  Baltimore  and 
Potomac,  Northern  and  Pennsylvania  Central, 
or  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad.  Pullman 
cars  run  on  either  road. 

From  Cincinnati.— Tourists  have  choice  of 
two  routes:  1st,  via  Ohio  and  Mississippi  Rail- 
road direct  to  St.  Louis,  passing  over  the 
St.  Louis  Bridge,  with  omnibus  transfer  to 
other  railroads;  or,  2d,  w'a  Indianapolis, 
Bloomington  and  Western  Railroad,  which  runs 
trains  direct  to  Burlington,  la. ,  or  to  Chicago. 
Pullman  sleeping-cars  run  on  either  route. 

From  St.  .Louis.— The  Wabash,  St.  Louis 
and  Pacific  is  the  most  direct  route,  being 
ten  hours  in  advance  of  all  others  to  Omaha. 

From  Chicago. — Three  roads  run  across 
Iowa  direct  to  Council  Bluffs. 

The  Chicago,  Bock  Island  and  Pacific 
Railroad  crosses  the  Mississippi  River  atDaven- 
port.  The  view  from  the  railroad  bridge  is  veiy 
beautiful,  and  the  scenery  along  the  whole  line, 
especially  through  Iowa,  is  also  beautiful.  It 
is  the  Central  Line  West  from  Chicago,  and 
especially  noted  for  excellent  railroad  manage- 
ment. The  Palace  sleeping-cars  of  this  line  are 


owned  by  the  company,  and  unexcelled  in 
comfort  and  beauty,  while  the  charges  are  lesa 
than  routes  of  other  sleeping  cars.  The  road 
bed  is  extremely  fine,  being  laid  with  steel 
rails. 

Through-sleeping-cars  run  from  Chicago 
westward,  morning  and  evening,  to  Council 
Bluffs,  Leavenworth,  Peoria,  and  connecting 
points  with  other  railroads. 

At  Chicago  the  trains  of  this  road  run  into 
the  Union  Depot,  connecting  for  the  East 
with  the  Pittsburgh,  Fort  Wayne  and  Chi- 
cago Railroad  without  transfer  across  the 
city. 

Chicago,  Rock  Island  and  Pacific  Bail- 
road  to  Kansas  City.— This  is  also  a  direct 
line  from  Chicago  to  Kansas  City  or  Leaven- 
worth,  which  passengers  may  take  for  Califor- 
nia via  the  Southern  route.  The  sleeping-cars 
and  other  conveniences  are  like  those  on  the 
line  between  Chicago  and  Council  Bluffs. 

Between  Chicago  and  Kansas  City  or  Leaven- 
worth,  there  is  a  third  route,  also  direct — that 
of  the  Chicago  and  Alton  Railroad.  On  all 
these,  sleeping-cars  are  run,  and  the  time  made 
is  about  the  same. 

The  Chicago,  Burlington  and  Quincy 
Railroad  crosses  the  Mississippi  at  Burling- 
ton, la.,  and  passes  through  Southern  Iowa. 
Pullman  cars  are  run  on  this  road,  including  the 
sixteen-wheel  dining-cars,  with  unexceptionable 
meals.  Passengers  going  East  highly  enjoy  the 
change  from  the  eating-houses  of  Utah  and 
Wyoming  to  the  luxury  of  meals  in  every  re- 
spect first-class,  and  this  feature  of  the  road 
makes  it  a  great  favorite  with  many  ladies. 

The  smoking-cars  are  fitted  with  elegant 
high-backed  rattan  revolving  chairs,  and  other 
comforts  wholly  unknown  to  travelers  a  few 
years  ago. 

The  Chicago,  Burlington  and  Quincy 
Bailroad  to  Kansas  City.  — This  is  a  direct 
through-line  to  either  Kansas  City  or  Leaven- 
worth,  and  deservedly  popular.  It  has  all  the 
advantages  of  the  line  between  Chicago  and 
Omaha. 

The  Chicago  and  Northwestern  Bailroad 
crosses  the  Mississippi  at  Clinton,  la.  The 
eating-stations  on  this  route  are  all  very  superior. 
Better  meals  are  not  often  served  outside  of 
first-class  hotels.  This  is  the  shortest  line  be- 
tween Chicago  and  Omaha,  and  is  popular 
throughout  all  the  Northwest.  Pullman  sleep- 
ing-cars are  run  on  this  line. 

NOTE. — West  of  Chicago  the  Pacific  through- 
trains  leave  in  the  morning,  with  sleeping-cars 
through  to  Council  Bluffs  without  change. 

From  St.  Louis  to  Omaha.— Three  routes 
are  open  to  the  tourist.  The  Missouri  Pacific 
Railroad  runs  up  on  the  south  side  of  the  Mis- 
souri River,  with  Pullman  cars,  direct  for  Kan- 
sas City,  and  the  Wabash,  St.  Louis  and  Pacific 


11 


da  the  northern  side  of  the  river,  direct  to 
Council  Bluffs. 

The  Missouri  Pacific,  in  direct  connection 
with  the  Kansas  City,  St.  Joseph  and  Council 
Bluffs  Bailroad,  runs  through-sleeping-cars 
from  St.  Louis  direct  to  Council  Bluffs. 

From  St.  Louis  to  Kansas  City,  the  most 
direct  route  is  by  the  Missouri  Pacific  Bailroad. 
Pullman  sleeping-cars  are  run  on  this  road. 

Council  Bluffs;  Iowa,  Railroad  Transfer 
Grounds. — This,  as  well  as  Omaha,  is  a  trans- 
fer point  for  all  passengers,  and  the  starting- 
point  of  all  trains  on  the  Union  Pacific  BaU- 
I'oad.  A  recent  decision  of  the  United  States 
Supreme  Court  fixes  the  terminus  of  the  Pacific 
Kailroad  on  the  east  side  of  the  Missouri  Biver. 
The  company  has  complied  with  the  decision, 
and  the  necessity  for  bridge  transfer  is  now  en- 
tirely removed.  At  Council  Bluffs  is  also  the 
western  terminus  of  the  Iowa  railroads.  A 
Union  Depot  for  all  railroads  has  been  erected, 
and  all  passengers,  baggage,  mails,  freight,  etc., 
find  trains  for  the  West,  start  from  this  point  as 
well  as  Omaha.  Passengers,  however,  usually 
prefer  to  go  to  Omaha  for  a  visit.  The  city  of 
Council  Bluffs  is  located  about  three  miles  east 
from  the  Missouri  Biver,  and  contains  a  popu- 
lation of  18,121.  Its  record  dates  from  as  early 
as  1804,  when  the  celebrated  explorers,  Lewis 
and  Clark,  held  a  council  with  the  Indians, 
which  fact,  together  with  the  physical  peculi- 
arity of  the  high  bluffs  overlooking  the  town, 
has  given  it  its  name — Council  Bluffs. 

The  city  is  one  of  great  enterprise,  with  a 
large  number  of  public  buildings,  stores,  State 
institutions  and  dwellings,  and  is  the  nucleus 
of  a  large  trade  from  surrounding  Iowa  towns, 
and  is  supported  by  a  rich  agricultural  com- 
munity. It  is  intimately  connected  with  Omaha 
— with  frequent  trains  over  the  bridge,  by  a 
railroad  ferry,  attached  to  the  dummy  train,  an 
invention  of  P.  P.  Shelby.  It  will  doubtless 
come  more  largely  hereafter  into  prominence 
as  a  railroad  town,  though  the  commercial  im- 
portance of  Omaha,  and  its  trade  with  the  Far 
West,  will  doubtless  be  for  a  long  time  to  come 
far  superior.  The  general  offices  of  the  Union 
Pacific  Bailroad  Company  will  remain  at  Omaha. 

At  Council  Bluffs  the  Union  Pacific  Bailroad 
Company  have  reserved  ample  grounds,  over 
1,000  acres,  to  accommodate  its  own  traffic  and 
that  of  connecting  railroads,  and  extensive 
preparations  will  be  made  to  accommodate  the 
vast  traffic  of  freights,  passengers,  baggage  and 
stock,  which  daily  arrives  and  departs. 

The  past  year  over  4,000  cars  of  stock  were 
transferred  over  the  bridge,  and  there  is  ample 
room  for  extension.  Here  are  also  located  the 
stock  grounds  of  the  company,  which  in  time 
will  render  the  locality  a  large  stock-market; 
for  here  begins  the  great  grazing  belt  of  the 
continent — that  which  affords  sure  sustenance 


for  stock  and  a  fair  degree  of  safety  without 
shelter  the  year  round.  Large  herds  of  sleek 
cattle  feed  upon  this  natural  pasturage  on 
every  hand,  and  often  mingle  with  bands  of 
antelope  and  other  game.  From  this  west  to 
the  Pacific  Ocean,  north  into  the  British  Pos- 
sessions and  to  the  southernmost  limits  of  the 
continent,  cattle  graze  and  fatten  summer  and 
winter,  needing  no  more  attention  to  assure 
their  growth  and  safety  than  the  buffalo. 
Nearly  all  readers  must  understand  that  the 
grasses  west  of  here  cure  where  they  grow, 
retaining  all  their  wonderfully  nutritious  ele- 
ments, and  that  different  herbs  unknown  in 
the  east  also  afford  a  perfect  winter  diet.  Fur- 
ther, that  the  snows  are  light  and  dry,  ever 
shifting  before  the  prairie  winds,  and  that 
sheltered  and  wooded  valleys  are  conveniently 
interspersed,  affording  all  the  protection  that 
cattle  have  ever  seemed  to  need.  It  is  readily 
seen,  therefore,  that  in  all  this  vast  territory 
must  be  thousands  upon  thousands  of  oppor- 
tunities for  men  to  produce  beef,  after  the 
nucleus  for  a  herd  is  purchased,  at  the  simple 
outlay  of  herding  and  branding.  It  is  demon- 
strated by  hundreds  of  reliable  stockmen  that 
the  loss  from  all  causes  will  not  exceed  two  per 
cent,  of  the  entire  herd  per  annum. 

Sleeping-Car    Expenses — The    tariff    to 
travelers  is  as  follows,  with  all  companies,  and 
all  in  greenbacks: 
One  berth,  New  York  to  Chicago,  one 

and  one-half  days,  by  any  route $5  00 

One  berth,  NBAV  York  to  Cincinnati,  one 

and  one-half  days,  by  Pennsylvania 

Bailroad 4  00 

One  berth,  New  York  to  Cincinnati,  one 

and  one-half  days,  by  other  routes. .     5  00 
One  berth,  New  York  to" St.  Louis,  two 

days,  by  any  route 5  00 

One    berth,    Chicago  or  St.   Louis,   to 

Omaha,  by  any  route 3  00 

One  berth,  Omaha  to  Ogden,  by  Pacific 

Bailroad 8  00 

One  berth,  Ogden  to  San  Francisco,  by 

Central  Pacific  Bailroad 6  00 

One  berth,  St.  Louis  to  Kansas  City 2  00 

One  berth,  Chicago  to  Kansas  City 3  00 

One  berth,  Kansas  City  to  Deming 7  00 

One  berth,  Deming  to  San  Francisco    . .     7  00 

MEALS. 
All  meals  at  all  railroad  dining-stations 

east  of  Omaha 75 

Except  dinners  on  Erie  and  New  York 

Central 100 

All  meals  on  Union  Pacific  Bailroad 1  00 

All  meals  on  Central  Pacific  Bailroad, 

first  day,  currency 1  00 

All  meals  on  Central  Pacific  at  Sacramento  75 
All  meals  on  Central  Pacific  at  Lathrop..  50 
Meals  on  the  Southern  Pacific  and  Atchi- 

son,  Topeka  and  Santa  FeBoads.75c.  tol  00 


12 


Curiosities  of  History. — To  whom  the 
honor  belongs  of  first  proposing  the  plan  of  a  rail- 
road to  the  Pacific,  history  can  never  fully  deter- 
mine. Whitney  offered  to  build  it  for  a  grant  of 
thirty  miles  in  width  along  its  track,  and  it  was 
looked  upon  as  the  freaky  fancy  of  a  monomaniac. 
Benton,  too,  the  famous  statesman,  was  once 
aglow  with  enthusiasm  over  the  subject,  and  be- 
gan to  agitate  the  project,  but  it  was  considered 
the  harmless  fancy  of  an  old  politician.  And  in 
1856,  when  General  Fremont  was  nominated, 
the  Platform  of  the  National  Republican  Party 
contained  a  clause  in  its  favor — but  it  was  re- 
garded as  a  piece  of  cheap  electioneering  "  bun- 
combe," and  decidedly  absurd.  Perhaps  the 
earliest  record  of  a  devoted  admirer  of  this  project 
was  that  of  John  Plurnbe,  in  1836.  He  was  a 
Welshman  by  birth,  an  American  by  education 
and  feeling,  a  civil  engineer  by  profession,  and 
lived  at  Dubuque,  la.  He  began  to  agitate 
the  project  of  a  railroad  from  the  great  lakes 
across  the  Continent  to  the  Territory  of  Oregon. 
From  that  time  to  his  death,  in  California,  sev- 
eral years  after  the  discovery  of  gold,  he  never 
failed  to  urge  his  project ;  earnestly  and  ardently 
laboring  to  bring  it  before  Congress,  and  attempt- 
ing to  secure  a  beginning  of  the  great  work.  To 
far-seeing  statesmen,  the  idea  naturally  occurred 
that  in  course  of  time  there  would  arise  on  the 
Pacific  Coast  another  empire  of  trade  and  com- 
merce and  industry,  either  at  San  Francisco,  or 
the  Puget  Sound,  which  would  in  time,  become 
the  rival  of  New  York  and  the  East,  and  at 
once  the  project  was  taken  up  and  encouraged 
by  Carver,  Wilkes,  Benton,  Whitney,  Burton  and 
others  ;  but  all  such  ideas  met  with  indifference 
and  ridicule. 

In  1844,  when  Fremont  made  his  famous  ex- 
plorations across  the  plains,  which  has  earned 
him  so  world-wide  a  reputation,  so  little  was 
known  of  the  geography  of  that  country,  that  his 
reports  were  considered  an  immense  acquisition 
to  the  collection  of  books  of  physical  knowledge 
of  our  country.  This  section  was  fully  2,300 
miles  in  distance,  entirely  vacant,  no  settlement, 
entirely  occupied  by  roving  bands  of  Indians, 
and  the  undisturbed  home  of  the  buffalo  and 
antelope.  In  that  year  Chicago  was  but  an 
obscure  village,  on  a  prairie  without  a  single 
inhabitant.  And  not  a  single  line  of  railroad 
was  built  from  the  Atlantic  westward  beyond 
the  Alleghanies,  and  on  the  Pacific  only  one 
American  flag  covered  a  feeble  colony.  The  dis- 
covery of  gold  in  California  had  its  effect  in 
directing  public  attention  to  the  unknown  riches 
of  its  Western  border ;  and  at  last  Congress 
voki  up  to  the  need  of  thorough  explorations 
and  investigations.  In  March,  1853,  Congress 
made  its  first  appropriation  to  explore  the  Far 
West,  and  ascertain  if  there  was  really  a  practi- 
cable route  to  the  Pacific.  In  1854,  Congress  ap- 
propriated $190,000  additional ;  and,  as  a  result, 


nine  surveying  parties  were  organized  and  pur- 
sued their  work.  Ten  routes  were  surveyed 
between  the  32d  and  49th  parallel  of  latitude ; 
the  eastern  ends  ranging  all  the  way  from  Fulton, 
Ark.,  to  St.  Paul,  Minn., — and  the  western  ter- 
minal points  from  San  Diego  to  Puget  Sound 
The  lengths  of  these  routes  varied  from  1,533  to 
2,290  miles. 

The  continued  gold  discoveries  brought  an  im- 
mense flow  of  population  to  the  Pacific  Coast,  and 
California,  more  alive  to  the  necessities  of  such 
roads  than  the  East,  after  numerous  agitations,  at 
last  really  made  the  first  initiatory  experiment. 
Early  in  1861  there  was  organized  at  Sacramento, 
Cal.,  the  Central  Pacific  Railroad  Company,  who 
by  the  appointment  of  T.  D.  Judah,  as  chief  en- 
gineer, began  the  first  and  most  thorough  railroad 
survey  ever  made  on  the  Sierras. 

Congress  then  woke  up,  and  in  July,  1862,  the 
first  national  charter  was  granted.  As  a  curious 
fact  in  the  act — the  utmost  limit  of  time  allowed 
for  the  completion  of  the  road  was  fixed  at  July 
1. 1876.  In  October,  1863,  the  preliminary  organ- 
ization of  the  company  was  completed.  A  capi- 
tal of  one  hundred  million  dollars  authorized,  and 
the  first  contract  for  construction  begun  in  1864, 
but  no  practical  progress  was  made  till  1865, 
when  on  the  5th  of  November,  the  first  ceremony 
of  breaking  ground,  at  Omaha,  was  celebrated. 
Then  was  begun  the  great  work  ;  the  rapid 
progress  of  which  afterward  was  a  world-wide 
sensation,  astounding  engineers,  capitalists  and 
even  governments,  with  the  almost  reckless  dar- 
ing of  construction. 

Necessity  and  Benefits  to  the  Govern- 
ment. 

From  1850  to  1860,  the  population  of  the  far 
Western  States  and  Territories  increased  from  a 
mere  handful  to  the  large  number  of  554,301 
persons,  and  in  the  whole  area  of  2,000  miles 
there  had  been  built  only  232  miles  of  telegraph, 
and  32  miles  of  railway.  The  United  States 
Government  had  established  forts  and  trading 
stations,  and  the  year  1870  saw  the  completion 
of  the  Pacific  Railroad  line,  Congress  and  the 
whole  country  were  astonished  to  see  the  rapid 
rate  of  development,  and  the  enormous  expense 
of  government  military  service.  In  that  year  the 
population  had  increased  to  1,011,971,  there  had 
been  built  over  13,000  miles  of  telegraph  lines  ; 
there  were  completed  over  4,000  miles  of  rail- 
road ;  all  representing  the  gigantic  capital  of 
$363,750,000.  In  the  reports  of  distinguished 
statesmen  to  the  United  States  Senate,  occur 
these  remarks  which  show  the  spirit  of  the  times 
then  Senator  Stewart  of  California,  says  : 

"  The  cost  of  the  overland  service  for  the  whole 
period,  from  the  acquisition  of  our  Pacific  Coast 
possessions  down  to  the  completion  of  the  Pacific 
Railroad  was  $8,000,000  per  annum,  and  con- 
stantly increasing." 


13 


As  a  curious  fact  of  national  economy,  these 
figures  will  show  the  result  of  the  Pacific  Kail- 
road  in  saving  to  the  United  States  Government : 

From  the  building  of  the  road  to  1876,  the 
cost  of  transportation  to  the  government  was 
as  follows: 

Amount  cash  paid  to  railroad  companies  for 
one-half  charge  of  transportation  per 
year,  about  §1,200,000  per  aimurn,  say  for 
7  years— 1869  to  1876,  $8,400,000 

The  cost  to  the  government  of  military  trans- 
portation in  1870,  was  J-;K,OOO,OI>O  per 
annum,  and  increasing  over  $1,000,000  per 
year.  In  1876,  would  have  been  over  $14,- 
000,000.  Average  for  7  years,  at  §10,000,000 
per  year,  870,000,000 

Total  saving  in  7  years  to  United  States  Govern- 
ment, §62,600,000 

The  actual  amount  of  interest  during  this  time 
paid  by  the  United  States  Treasury  on 
bonds  issued  in  behalf  of  the  railroad, 
average  interest,  §3,897,  129  per  year. 
Total  for  7  years,  $27,279,906 

Net  profit  over  all  expenses  to  United  States,  $42,320,094 
t  These  figures  do  not  include  vast  amounts  of 
incidental  items  which  would  have  been  of  incal- 
culable trouble,  or  immense  expense  to  the 
United  States,  such  as  the  indemnities  con- 
stantly being  paid  by  the  United  States  for  de- 
struction of  life  and  private  property  by  Indians ; 
also  depredations  of  Indians  on  property  in  gov- 
ernment service,  increased  mail  facilities  and 
decreased  mail  expenses,  prevention  of  Indian 
wars,  the  rapid  sale  of  public  lands,  and  the 
energetic  development  of  the  mining  interests  of 
all  the  Territories. 

If  these  can  all  be  correctly  estimated,  the  net 
gain  to  the  United  States  by  the  building  of  the 
Pacific  Railroad,  is  over  fifty  millions  of  dollars. 

Hon.  Henry  Wilson,  in  a  speech  before  the 
Senate,  Thirty-seventh  Congress,  boldly  said: 
"  I  give  no  grudging  vote  in  giving  away  either 
money  or  land.  I  would  sink  1100,000,000  to 
build'  the  road,  and  do  it  most  cheerfully,  and 
think  1  had  done  a  great  thing  for  mv  country. 
What  are  $75,000,000  or  $100,000,000  in  opening 
a  railroad  across  the  central  regions  of  this  Con- 
tinent, that  shall  connect  the  people  of  the 
Atlantic  and  Pacific,  and  bind  us  together  ? 
Nothing.  As  to  the  lands,  I  do  not  grudge 
them." 

It  is  a  significant  fact,  that  while  the  heat  and 
activity  of  Congressional  discussion  was  most 
earnest  in  aid  and  encouragement  of  the  project, 
the  following  sentiments  were  unanimously  enter- 
tained by  all  the  members  of  Congress  : 

1.  That  the  road  was  a  necessity  to  the  govern- 
ment, and  if  not  built  by  private  capital,  must  be 
built  in  time  with  public  funds  alone. 

2.  To  encourage  the  capitalists  of  the  country 
to  come  forward  and  aid  the  project,  the  govern- 
ment were  willing  to   give  one-half  the  funds 
necessary  as  a  loan,  and  were  then  merely  doing 
the  least  part  of  the  whole. 

3.  That  no  expectations  were  entertained  that 


the  road  would  ever,  from  its  own  means,  be 
able  to  refund  the  advance  made  by  the"  United 
States,  and  no  other  thought  was  ever  entertained, 
save  of  the  benefits  to  accrue  to  the  public  from 
the  opening  of  this  grand  highway  of  national 
interest.  No  expectations  were  formed  of  the 
ability  of  the  company  to  pay  or  repay  the 
interest  on  the  loan,  bnt  one  thought  was  con- 
sidered, that  the  building  of  the  road  was  ample 
compensation  and  service  in  its  vast  aid  to  in- 
dustry, and  its  saving  in  transportation. 

As  editor  of  this  Guide,  knowing  well  the  re- 
sources of  the  Far  West,  we  positively  assert  that 
the  government  has  already,  in  seven  years,  realized 
in  both  savings  ami  sales,  enough  money  to  liquidate 
one-third  the  whole  principal,  and  accrued  interest 
of  the  government  loan,  and  in  less  than  twent'j 
years  from  the  opening  of  the  road,  the  government 
gain  will  be  greater  than  the  whole  of  the  financial 
aid  it  has  ever  given.  The  Pacific  Railroad  is  th* 
right-hand  saving  power  of  the  United  States. 

Discouragements.  —  Notwithstanding  all 
that  the  government  had  done  tc  encourage  it 
(by  speeches),  the  work  languished.  Capitalists 
doubted  it.  The  great  war  of  the  rebellion 
attracted  the  attention  of  every  one,  and  the  gov- 
ernment, after  its  first  impulses,  grew  indifferent. 
A  few  bold  men  determined  to  work  incessantly 
for  its  completion.  And  one  of  the  results  of  the 
great  war  was  the  conviction  in  the  minds  of 
every  one  —  of  a  closer  Union  of  the  States. 
"  Who  knows"  said  one,  " but  California  and  the 
whole  Pocijic  Coast  may  secede,  and  where  are  we 
then?  We  can  do  nothing  to  retain  them.  The 
Pacific  railway  must  be  built.  It  shall  be  built  to 
keep  our  country  together." 

The  chief  engineer  of  the  railroad,  Gen.  G.  M. 
Dodge,  in  complimenting  the  directors  on  the  day 
of  the  completion  of  the  last  mile  of  track, 
says : 

"  The  country  is  evidently  satisfied  that  you 
accomplished  wonders,  and  have  achieved  a 
work  which  will  be  a  monument  to  your  energy, 
your  ability,  and  to  your  devotion  to  the  enter- 
prise, through  all  its  gloomy,  as  well  as  bright 
periods,  for  it  is  notorious  that  notwithstanding 
the  aid  of  the  government,  there  was  so  little 
faith  in  the  enterprise,  that  its  dark  days — when 
your  private  fortunes,  and  your  all  was  staked 
on  the  success  of  the  project — far  exceeded  those 
of  sunshine,  faith  and  confidence." 

The  lack  of  confidence  in  the  project,  even  in 
the  West,  was  so  great  that  even  in  localities 
which  were  to  be  specially  benefitted  by  its  con- 
struction, the  laborers  even  demanded  their  pay 
before  they  would  perform  their  day's  work,  so 
little  faith  had  they  in  the  payment  of  their 
wages,  or  in  the  ability  of  the  company  to  suc- 
ceed in  their  efforts. 

Probably  no  enterprise  in  the  world  has  been 
so  maligned,  misrepresented  and  criticised  as 
this,  but  now  it  is,  by  unbiased  minds,  pro- 


14 


nounced,  almost  without  exception,  the  best 
new  road  in  the  United  States. 

Rapid  Progress.  —  Though  chartered  in 
1862,  yet  the  first  grading  was  not  done  until 
1864,  and  the  first  rail  laid  in  July,  1865.  At 
that  time  there  was  no  railroad  communication 
from  the  East ;  a  gap  of  140  miles  existed  be- 
tween Omaha  and  Des  Moines,  and  over  this  it 
was  impossible  to  get  supplies. 

For  500  miles  westward  of  the  Missouri  River, 
the  country  was  completely  destitute  of  timber, 
fuel,  or  any  material  with  which  to  build  or 
maintain  a  road,  save  the  bare  sand  for  the  road- 
bed itself,  everything  had  to  be  transported  by 
teams  or  steamboats,  hundreds  and  thousands 
of  miles.  Labor,  and  everything  made  by  labor, 
was  scarce  and  high. 

Railroad  ties  were  cut  in  Michigan  and  Penn- 
sylvania, and  shipped  to  Omaha  at  a  cost,  often, 
of  $2.50  per  tie.  Even  the  splendid  engine,  of 
seventy  horse-power,  used  at  Omaha  for  the 
company's  works,  was  transported  in  wagons 
across  the  prairies  from  Des  Moines,  the  only  way 
to  get  it.  Shops  had  to  be  built,  forges  erected, 
and  machinery  put  in  place,  and  the  supplies, 
even,  for  the  subsistence  of  the  laborers  had  to  be 
brought  by  river  from  the  East ;  yet  it  was  all 
done. 

As  the  Westerners  concisely  express  it,  "  The 
wind  work  had  all  been  dune,  and  grading  now  be- 
gan" 

In  1865,  40  miles  of  track  were  laid  to  Fre- 
mont. In  1866,  260  miles  were  laid.  In  1867, 
240  miles  were  laid,  which  included  the  ascent 
to  Sherman.  By  January  1,  1868,  there  had 
been  completed  540  miles.  In  1868,  to  May  10, 
1869,  555  miles  more  were  laid,  and  the  road 
finished — seven  years  in  advance  of  the  time  set 
by  Congress,  and  the  time  actually  spent  in 
construction  was  just  three  years,  six  months,  and 
ten  days. 

To  show  the  enormous  amount  of  materials 
required  in  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad  alone, 
there  were  used  in  its  construction  300,000  tons 
of  iron  rails,  1,700,000  fish-plates,  6,800,000  bolts, 
6,126,375  cross-ties,  23,505,500  spikes. 

Fast  Buildinff. — Day  after  day  the  average 
rate  of  building  rose  from  one  to  two,  three  and 
five  miles.  Many  will  remember  the  daily  thrill 
of  excitement  as  the  morning  journals  in  the 
East  made  the  announcements  of  so  many  more 
miles  nearer  the  end,  and  as  the  number  of  com- 
pleted miles,  printed  in  the  widely  circulated 
advertisements  of  the  company,  reached  1000, 
the  excitement  became  intense,  as  the  rival  roads 
now  were  fairly  aglow  with  the  heat  of  compe- 
tition, and  so  near  each  other.  In  previous 
months  there  had  existed  a  little  engineering 
rivalry,  good  natured,  but  keen,  as  to  the  largest 
number  of  miles  each  could  lay  in  one  day.  The 
Union  Pacific  men  laid  one  day  six  miles  ;  soon 
after  the  Central  followed  suit  by  laying  seven, 


The  Union  Pacific  retaliated  by  laying  seven  and 
a  half ;  to  this  the  Central  sent  the  announce- 
ment that  they  could  lay  ten  miles  in  one  day  ; 
to  this  Mr.  Durant,  the  vice-president,  sent  back 
a  wager  of  f  10,000  that  it  could  not  be  done.  The 
pride  and  spirit  of  the  Central  Pacific  had  now 
been  challenged,  and  they  prepared  for  the  enor- 
mous contest,  one  of  extraordinary  magnitude 
and  rapidity.  The  29th  day  of  April,  1869,  was 
selected  for  the  decision  of  the  contest,  as  there 
then  remained  but  14  miles  of  track  to  bring  a 
meeting  of  the  roads  at  Promontory  Point. 

Work  began  ;  the  ground  had  already  been 
graded  and  ties  placed  in  position,  and  at  the 
signal  the  cars  loaded  with  rails  moved  forward. 
Four  men,  two  on  each  side,  seize  with  their  nip- 
pers the  ends  of  the  rails,  lift  from  the  car  and 
carry  them  to  their  place  ;  the  car  moves  steadily 
along  over  the  rails  as  fast  as  they  are  laid.  Im- 
mediately after  follows  a  band  of  men  who  attach 
the  plate  and  put  the  spikes  in  position ;  next  a 
force  of  Chinamen  who  drive  down  the  spikes^ 
solid  to  their  homes,  and  last  another  gang  of 
Chinamen  with  shovels,  picks,  etc.,  who  ballast 
the  track.  The  rapidity  of  all  these  motions, 
which  required  the  most  active  of  exercise  and 
alert  movements,  was  at  the  rate  of  144  feet  of 
track  to  every  minute.  By  1.30  p.  M.,  the  layers 
had  placed  eight  miles  of  track  in  just  six  hours. 
Resuming  work  again,  after  the  noon  rest,  the 
track-laying  progressed,  and  at  7  P.  M.,  exactly, 
the  Central  men  finished  their  task  of  10  miles, 
with  200  feet  over.  Mr..  James  Campbell,  the 
superintendent  of  the  division,  then  seizing  a 
locomotive  ran  it  over  the  ten  miles  of  new  track 
in  forty  minutes,  and  the  Union  men  were  satis- 
fied. This  was  the  greatest  feat  of  railroad 
building  ever  known  in  the  world,  and  when  it 
is  known  how  vast  the  materials  required  to  sup- 
ply this  little  stretch  of  ten  miles,  the  reader  is 
fairly  astonished  at  the  endurance  of  the  laborers. 
To  put  this  material  in  place  over  4,000  men 
had  been  constantly  employed.  The  laborers  on 
that  day  handled  25,800  cross-ties,  3,520  iron  rails, 
55,000  spikes,  7,040  fish-plates,  and  14,080  bolts, 
the  weight  of  the  whole  being  4,362,000  pounds. 
Upon  both  roads,  for  a  year  previous,  there  had 
been  remarkable  activity. 

A  total  force  of  20,000  to  25,000  workmen  all 
along  the  lines,  and  5,000  to  6,000  teams  had 
been  engaged  in  grading  and  laying  the  track  or 
getting  out  stone  or  timber.  From  500  to  600 
tons  of  materials  were  forwarded  daily  from 
either  end  of  the  lines. 

The  Sierra  Nevadas  suddenly  became  alive  with 
wood-choppers,  and  at  one  place  on  the  Truckee 
River  twenty-five  saw-mills  went  into  operation 
in  a  single  week.  Upon  one  railroad  70  to  100 
locomotives  were  in  use  at  one  time,  constantly 
bringing  materials  and  supplies.  At  one  time 
there  were  30  vessels  en  route  from  New  York 
via  Cape  Horn,  with  iron,  locomotives,  rails  and 


15 


rolling  stock,  destined  for  the  Central  Pacific 
Railroad;  and  it  is  a  curious  fact,  that  on  sev- 
eral consecutive  days  more  miles  of  track  were 
ironed  by  the  railroad  companies  than  it  was 
possible  for  an  ox-team  to  draw  a  load  over. 
And  when  at  last  the  great  road  was  completed, 
the  fact  suddenly  flashed  upon  the  nation  that 
a  road  once  so  distrusted,  and  considered  too 
gigantic  to  be  possible,  was  constructed  an 
actual  distance  of  2,221  miles,  in  lets  than  five 
years,  of  which  all  but  100  miles  was  done  be- 
tween January  1,  1866,  and  May  10,  1869— 
three  years,  four  months  and  ten  days. 

OMAHA, 

Railroads. — The  first  railroad  that  reached 
this  city  from  the  East  was  the  Chicago  and 
Northwestern — the  first  train  over  it  arriving 
on  Sunday,  January  17,  1867.  Then  followed 
the  Kansas  City,  Council  Bluffs  and  St.  Joseph, 
the  Chicago,  Bock  Island  and  Pacific,  and  the 
Burlington  and  Missouri  Biver  of  Iowa  (oper- 
ated by  the  Chicago,  Burlington  and  Qumcy). 
After  these  came  the  Sioux  City  and  Pacific,  the 
Omaha  and  Northwestern  (in  recent  years  called 
the  Omaha  and  Northern  Nebraska),  and  the 
Omaha  and  Southwestern,  and  the  Omaha  and 
Eepublican  Valley.  The  Omaha  and  South- 
western is  now  operated  by  the  Burlington  and 
Missouri  Biver  Bailroad  in  Nebraska.  The 
latter  extends  to  Lincoln,  the  capital  of  the 
State,  then  westward,  uniting  with  the  Union 
Pacific  at  Kearney  Junction.  It  has  a  branch 
from  its  main  lines  from  Crete  to  Beatrice,  a 
thriving  town  near  the  southern  boundary  of 
the  State.  It  also  controls  another  line  running 
from  Brownville,  on  the  Missouri  Biver,  north 
to  Nebraska  City;  thence  west  through  Lincoln 
(where  it  connects  with  the  main  line)  to  York, 
in  the  central  part  of  the  State.  During  1880 
the  Omaha  and  Northern  Nebraska  became  a 
part  of  the  Chicago,  St.  Paul,  Minneapolis  and 
Omaha  Bailway,  and  is  now  known  as  the 
Omaha  Division  of  that  line.  A  connection 
with  the  St.  Paul  Line  was  made  November 
16,  1880,  and  the  running  of  trains  from  Omaha 
direct  to  St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis  commenced 
a  few  weeks  later.  A  branch  of  this  line  is  also 
being  extended  towards  the  beautiful  valley  of 
the  Elkhorn,  one  of  the  garden-spots  of  Ne- 
braska. Other  railroads  are  contemplated, 
among  them  a  branch  of  the  Missouri  Pacific 
Bailroad  down  the  west  bank  of  the  Missouri 
from  Omaha  to  Atchison.  When  completed,  it 
will,  with  the  Missouri  Pacific  Main  Line,  give 
a  competing  route  to  St.  Louis  and  the  sea- 
board. At  Atchison  it  will  connect  with  the 
Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe,  forming  an 
almost  direct  route  through  Kansas  to  the 
mines  of  Southern  Colorado,  New  Mexico  and 
Arizona.  As  the  Atchison  Road  has  recently 
met  the  Southern  Pacific,  Omaha  will  have 


another  outlet  to  the  Pacific  Coast.  The  Omaha 
and  Bepublican  Valley,  operated  by  the  Union 
Pacific  Company,  runs  from  Omaha  to  Stroms- 
burg,  about  125  miles  west,  and  it  is  already 
doing  a  large  and  increasing  business.  It  will 
be  extended  westward  as  the  country  develops, 
and  population  increases.  A  branch  of  this 
line  is  also  in  operation  from  Valparaiso  to 
Lincoln. 

Besides  these  railroads,  Omaha  has  the  Mis- 
souri Biver  on  her  front,  giving  the  city  cheap 
steam  communication  from  the  center  of  Mon- 
tana to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  with  the  whole 
Mississippi  Valley  and  its  tributaries  as  far  east 
as  Pennsylvania.  The  city  has  become  the  most 
important  railroad  center  west  of  Chicago  and 
St.  Louis,  and  as  the  greatest  popular  "travel 
center  "  on  the  Missouri  Biver,  stands  unrivaled. 
As  a  matter  of  interest  we  mention  the  fact  that 
in  1875  there  were  55,000  local  arrivals  and  de- 
partures. In  1876  there  were  70,000,  and  in 
1878,  73,330,  and  in  1880  an  increase  of  twenty- 
five  per  cent,  over  1878.  The  city  is  the  east- 
ern gateway  of  the  mineral-bearing  regions  of 
the  West,  and  the  products  of  British  Colum- 
bia, the  Pacific  Coast,  the  Sandwich  Islands 
and  Asia,  find  their  way  through  her  limits  to 
the  Eastern  markets.  Within  a  circle  having  a 
radius  of  five  hundred  miles,  of  which  Omaha 
is  the  center,  there  are  upwards  of  12,000,000 
people  and  26,000  miles  of  railroad,  radiating 
in  every  direction.  Within  this  circle  is  the 
Black  Hills  region,  whose  rapid  development  is 
already  attracting  attention.  Beyond  this  limit 
on  the  west,  are  Western  Colorado,  the  greater 
part  of  Wyoming,  Utah,  Idaho,  Montana,  Ne- 
vada and  California.  Omaha  already  has  a 
controlling  influence  over  the  greater  part  of 
the  mineral  trade  of  these  States  and  Territories, 
of  which  we  shall  speak  hereafter. 

The  general  offices  of  the  Union  Pacific  are 
located  here.  They  are  in  an  elegant  building 
which  catches  the  eye  of  the  traveler  as  one  of 
the  notable  objects  as  he  approaches  the  city. 
It  was  completed  in  1878,  at  a  cost  of  $58,453.74, 
and  the  citizens  are  very  proud  of  tlais  fine 
structure.  The  general  offices  of  the  Burling- 
ton and  Missouri  Biver  in  Nebraska,  the  Omaha 
and  Southwestern,  and  the  Omaha  and  Bepub- 
lican Valley  Bailroads  are  also  located  here.  In 
addition  to  these,  the  general  agencies  of  the 
Chicago,  Sioux  City,  St.  Louis,"  St.  Paul  and 
Eastern  lines  have  handsome  offices.  The  Blue, 
Bed,  Empire  and  other  fast  freight  lines  are 
represented  in  the  city,  and  it  is  probable  that 
the  Baltimore  and  Ohio,  Chicago,  Milwaukee 
and  St.  Paul,  and  other  competing  lines  will 
push  their  fast  freight  lines  to  a  connection 
with  the  Union  Pacific  and  secure  a  proportion 
of  the  immense  trans-continental  traffic. 

The  Omaha  and  Bepublican  Valley  Bailroad 
has  taken  steps  looking  to  the  early  completion 


SCENES   IN   OMAHA. 

1.— General  View  of  Omaha  and  the  Missouri  Valley.    2.— Posi-Offlee.    3.— High  School  Building. 
4.-flr8iid  Cenlral  Hotel.    5.— Missouri  Rivei  bridge. 


17 


of  a  series  of  railroad  lines  that  will  "gridiron" 
the  State.  One  line  will  run  to  Atchison,  Kansas ; 
another  to  Beatrice,  another  into  the  Republican 
Valley,  another  to  Grand  Island  and  up  the 
Xioup  Fork,  and  another  to  the  Niobrara  Eiver 
in  the  north. 

Manufactures. — In  manufactures  Omaha 
is  now  the  most  extensive  manufacturing  point 
on  the  Missouri  River,  the  amount  for  1880  be- 
ing in  the  neighborhood  of  $12,000,000.  She 
has  an  oil  mill  which  supplies  the  extensive 
demand  for  linseed  oil  and  oil  cake,  and  pro- 
motes the  growth  of  flax  in  Nebraska,  necessi- 
tating at  an  early  day  the  erection  of  flax  mills 
in  the  city  for  the  manufacture  of  that  article; 
extensive  white  lead  works,  completed  in  the 
spring  of  1878;  a  safe  factory,  nail  factory,  shot 
tower,  several  breweries,  two  distilleries,  foun- 
dries and  machine  shops,  carriage  and  wagon 
shops,  three  packing  houses,  flour  mills  and  other 
manufactories  in  active  operation  or  contemplat- 
ed. Among  the  latter  are  a  grape  sugar  factory, 
starch  factory,  etc.  Among  the  principal  estab- 
lishments in  operation  are  the  machine  shops, 
car  works  and  foundry  of  the  Union  Pacific 
Railroad,  and  the  Omaha  smelting  works.  The 
shops  of  the  railroad  occupy,  with  the  round- 
house, about  thirty  acres  of  land  on  the  bottom 
adjoining  the  table  land  on  which  most  of  the 
city  proper  is  built.  Their  disbursements 
amount  to  $2,600,000  per  annum  for  labor  and 
material,  while  for  office  and  manual  labor  alone 
the  Union  Pacific  pays  out  annually  in  Omaha 
over  one  million  dollars.  The  value  of  this 
business  and  the  location  of  these  shops  to  the 
city  can,  therefore,  readily  be  seen,  and  are  no 
small  factors  in  Omaha's  prosperity. 

Business  of  Omaha— Facts  Interesting 
•and  Curious. — "When  Omaha  was  first  entitled 
to  the  honor  of  a  post-oflice,  the  story  is  told 
that  the  first  postmaster  (still  living  in  the  city) 
used  his  hat  for  a  post-office,  which  he  naturally 
carried  with  him  wherever  he  went,  delivering 
the  mail  to  anxious  individuals  who  were  wait- 
ing eagerly  for  him,  or  chased  and  overtook  him. 
Twenty  years  after,  Omaha  possesses  a  hand- 
some stone  post-office  and  a  custom-house  worth 
$350,000  (in  which  there  is  a  bonded  warehouse), 
and  the  finest  building  west  of  the  Mississippi 
River.  The  post-office  has  frequently  handled 
twenty  tons  of  overland  and  local  mail  matter 
per  day.  The  total  business  at  this  post-office 
for  1880  was  about  $2,375,000,  and  the  total 
number  of  letters,  newspapers  and  postal  cards, 
collected  and  delivered,  was  18,192,543.  In  1861 
the  first  telegraph  reached  Omaha,  and  its  only 
office  was  for  several  years  the  terminus  of  the 
Pacific  Telegraph.  Now  there  are  thirty -four 
telegraph  wires  radiating  in  all  directions;  fif- 
teen offices,  employing  seventy  operators.  The 
number  of  messages  per  day  averages  10,500,  of 
•which  one-third  relates  to  Pacific  Railroad  busi- 


ness, and  including  press  dispatches,  local  and 
Pacific  Coast,  about  25,000,000  words  were  re- 
peated. The  total  value  of  school  property  in 
Omaha  is  $430,975,  and  the  city  is  growing  so 
rapidly  that  several  more  buildings  are  needed. 
Omaha  is  the  headquarters  of  the  army  of  the 
Platte,  and  disburses  about  $1,700,000,  besides 
an  annual  transportation  account  with  the  Union 
Pacific  Railroad  of  $675,000.  The  office  of  In- 
ternal Revenue  Collector  for  Nebraska  is  also 
located  here.  In  1865  Omaha  did  not  have  a  sin- 
gle manufacturing  establishment.  In  1880,  her 
manufactures  amounted  to  about  $12,000,000, 
the  annual  increase  being  from  twenty  to  twenty- 
five  per  cent.  Here  are  located  the  largest  smelt- 
ing and  refining  works  on  the  North  American 
Continent;  the  Omaha  smelting  works,  which 
employ  150  men,  and  do  an  annual  business  of 
$5,500,000.  Seven  breweries  turn  out  30,000 
barrels  of  beer.  One  distillery  pays  the  govern- 
ment $850,000  per  year,  and  there  are  up  ward  of 
fifty  smaller  enterprises,  among  which  is  a  nota- 
ble industry — the  manufacture  of  brick — over 
12,000,000  brick  being  turned  out  of  four  brick 
yards.  The  bank  capital  and  surplus  exceed 
$800, 000.  In  overland  times  before  the  building 
of  the  Pacific  Railroad,  or  just  at  its  commence- 
ment, the  wholesale  trade  of  Omaha  was  won- 
derful— single  houses  handling  as  much  as 
$3,000,000.  Since  that  time  the  courses  of  trade 
have  been  so  divided  that  the  largest  sales  now 
of  any  wholesale  establishment  do  not  exceed 
$1,500,000.  Perhaps,  the  best  index  of  the 
enormous  trade  Omaha  is  gaining  is  in  the  in- 
crease of  the  shipments  and  receipts  of  live 
stock,  grain,  currency,  precious  metals,  etc., 
etc.  The  receipts  of  cattle  at  Omaha  were  as 
follows : 

NO.  INCBEASE. 

During  1876 60,300 

1877 96,500  35,200 

The  estimates  place  the  receipts  at  150,000  for 
1881,  and  large  stock  yards  will  be  built  the 
present  year.  Omaha  packing  houses  slaugh- 
tered 72,000  hogs  in  1880.  In  1874  the  grain 
business  amounted  to  about  300,000  bushels  per 
annum.  In  six  months  ending  March,  1881, 
the  receipts  amounted  to  about  4,000,000  bush- 
els, and  the  corn  crop  of  the  last  year  had  not 
then  begun  to  move.  Omaha  has  two  grain 
elevators,  and  an  elevator  with  a  storage  capa- 
city of  1,000,000  bushels  is  now  being  erected. 

As  to  the  movements  of  the  precious  metals 
into  and  through  Omaha,  we  find  that  the  Black 
Hills  ores  are  appearing  freely  in  the  city,  and 
since  the  opening  of  the  Colorado  Division  of  the 
Union  Pacific  Railway  from  Cheyenne  to  Den- 
ver, it  is  getting  its  share  of  the  ore  and  base 
bullion  of  that  State.  It  is  a  noticeable  fact 
that  nearly  all  of  the  shipments  of  fine  gold  and 
silver  from  New  Mexico  now  find  their  way  to 
the  Eastern  cities  through  Omaha.  The  gold 
and  silver  products  of  the  country  west  of 


18 


Omaha  are  again  on  the  increase,  as  will  be  seen 
by  reference  to  these  statistics : 

GOLD  AND  SILVER  PRODUCT  OF  THE  WEST. 


1869 $61,500000 

1870 66,000,000 

1871 66,663,000 

1872  6),94t,877 

1873 71642,523 

18;4 72,423,206 


Ih75 $75,789,057 

1876 85,835,^73 

1877 93,336,5i4 

1878 8  ,154,632 

1879 7r>.3L",501 

1880 80,167,936 


Showing  an  increase  in  the  gold  and  silver 
production  in  1880  over  1869  of  $18,667,936.  In 
1830,  the  estimated  lead  yield  was  $5,742,390, 
of  which  the  Omaha  smelting  works  manufac- 
tured SI, 000,000  into  lead  bars  for  shipment 
East.  This  amount  being  equal  to  the  lead  yield 
of  Illinois  and  Missouri  combined. 

In  tracing  the  routes  over  which  the  precious 
metals  of  Colorado,  New  Mexico,  Utah,  Nevada 
and  the  West  come,  they  rnu'st  not  be  considered 
possible  and  temporary,  but  as  the  actual  and  per- 
manent routes  over  which  these  metals  have  been 
passing  into  and  through  Omaha,  viz. : 

MOVEMENT   OF   BULLION   AND   ORES. 


During  1873, 
"  1874, 
"  1875, 
"  1876, 
"  1877, 


$21,500,000 
41,907,090 
49,848,542 
56,733,100 
50,060,368 


Showing  an  increase  in  1877  over  1873  of 
128,560,368. 

The  increase  in  the  eastward  flow  of  gold  in 
1877  over  1876  was  $5,227,102.  The  decrease  in 
silver  for  the  same  time  owing  to  the  Asiatic  de- 
mand and  the  coinage  of  trade  dollars  at  San 
Francisco,  was  $11,890,834.  Had  not  these  in- 
fluences been  at  work,  it  is  safe  to  assume  that 
the  passage  of  gold  and  silver  into  and  through 
Omaha  for  1877  would  have  amounted  to 
$64,000,000  or  two-thirds  of  the  entire  product 
of  the  country.  This  does  not  include  the 
amount  contained  in  the  ore,  base  bullion  and 
lead  passing  over  the  Union  Pacific  roads  : 


During  1875, 
"  1876, 
"  1877, 


64,429,400  pounds. 
71,758,352        " 
111,006,050        " 


Showing  an  increase  in  1877  over  1875  of 
46,576,650  pounds.  Of  the  amount  in  1875, 
the  Omaha  smelting  works  received  29,638,826 
pounds.  The  gain  being  proportionate  for  the 
two  succeeding  years.  In  1875,  not  a  car  load 
of  ore  or  bullion  was  handled  at  Kansas  City 
from  the  Kansas  Pacific  Railroad.  In  1877  the 
receipts  of  ore  in  that  city  were  23,964,250 
pounds,  mostly  for  shipment  east. 

The  Omaha  smelting  works  are  the  largest  on 
the  Continent,  as  previously  stated.  They  are 
being  constantly  enlarged  to  meet  the  increasing 
demands  of  business.  In  1875  the  works  in  Col- 
orado reduced  $1,650,000  of  ore  and  bullion.  In 

1874,  the  Omaha  works  reduced  $42,135,000.    In 

1875,  $4,028,314.     In  1876,  $4,832,000.     In  1877, 
$5,500,000.      For  1875-76-77  their  lead  manu- 
facture amounted  to  35,262  tons  or  70,524,000 


pounds,  so  that  Omaha  now  produces  about  one 
sixth  of  all  the  lead  used  in  the  United  States. 
Heretofore  this  lead  has  been  shipped  east,  but 
the  new  white  lead  works  are  using  a  large  por- 
tion of  it  and  in  the  near  future  there  is  no 
reason  why  Omaha  may  not  be  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal lead  manufacturing  markets  in  the  coun- 
try. The  statement  of  currency  received  at  and 
shipped  from  Omaha  is  as  follows,  viz. : 


In  1873, 

"  1874, 
"  1875, 
"  1876, 
"  1877, 


$21,944,807.20 
27,431,009.00 
34,-4(M>,700.20 
33,655,215.00 
39,993,260.00 


Showing  an   increase    in  1877  over  1873    of 
$18,048,452.80 

There  was  deposited  in  the  Omaha  banks,  viz.  t 

During  1874,  $55,308,960.48 

"       1875,  63,333,492.08 

"        1876,  72,808,500.00 

"       1877,  80,548,485.50 

Showing  an   increase   in    1877  over  1874  of 
$25,239,524.52. 

Exchange  sold  by  the  same  : 

During  1874,  $25,768,426.92 

"       1877,  38,181,671.38 

Showing   an   increase   in    1877  over   1874  of 
$12,413,244.46. 

The  public  improvements  show  this  record  : 

During  1879 $1,064,540 

1880 1,0.4,880 


During  1875 $360,000 

1876 23H.OOO 

1877 785,000 

An  increase  in  1880  over  1875  of  $654,880; 
over  1876,  $776,830.  Careful  estimates  place 
the  improvement  record  of  1831  at  no  less  than 
$1,500,000.  Judging  by  the  tide  of  immigra- 
tion now  rushing  into  Nebraska  through  the 
efforts  of  eastern  colonization  societies  and 
others,  the  realization  will  go  beyond  that  figure, 
as  the  trade  of  the  city  is  rapidly  extending  in 
every  direction  and  the  indications  are  that  the 
present  will  be  the  most  prosperous  year  in  the 
history  of  the  West. 

In  1860,  the  transportation  trade  of  Omaha 
amounted  to  732,000  pounds.  In  1877,  the  re- 
ceipts and  shipments  from  and  to  the  West  pass- 
ing into  and  through  Ornaha  were  2,172,720,000 
pounds.  In  1875,  the  Omaha  merchants  im- 
ported 17,450  carloads  of  merchandise. 

The  mercantile  and  manufacturing  trade  of 
the  city  in  round  numbers  is  as  follows : 

In  1875 $17,000,000  I  In  1877 $30,000,00-» 

"1876 25,000,000  |  "1880 32,000,000 

This  increase  of  $13,000.000  in  two  years  was 
during  a  period  of  universal  depression.  But 
notwithstanding  the  hard  times,  Omaha  has  be- 
come the  chief  commercial  city  of  the  Missouri 
valley. 

The  "  Omaha  Union  Stock  Yards  "  were  in- 
corporated May  4,  1878,  and  began  at  once  the 
erection  of  large  and  well  arranged  yards,  on 
their  grounds  located  on  the  Union  Pacific  track 


19 


near  the  city  limits.  A  dummy  car  line  extend- 
ing from  the  Union  depot  to  Hanscom  Park, 
connects  the  yards  with  the  hotels  and  banks  of 
the  city.  The  packing,  slaughtering  and  can- 
ning of  beef  is  destined  to  grow  into  immense 
proportions  at  this  point,  as  also  undoubtedly 
will  tanning  and  glue  manufacture. 

Omaha  has  now  a  system  of  water  works 
which  cost  $600,000;  also,  a  hotel  and  opera 
house,  each  of  which  cost  $100,000. 

The    U.  P.  M.  JR.  Bridge  Across  the 

Missouri  River. — The  huge  bridge,  which 
spans  the  Missouri,  is  a  fitting  entrance  to  the 
wonders  beyond — a  mechanical  wonder  of  itself, 
it  fills  every  traveler  with  a  sense  of  awe  and 
majesty,  as  the  first  great  scene  of  the  overland 
journey. 

The  last  piece  of  iron  of  the  last  span  which 
completed  the  bridge  was  fastened  in  its  place 
on  the  20th  of  February,  1872.  Previous  to  that 
time,  all  passengers  and  traffic  were  transferred 
across  the  treacherous  and  shifting  shores  of  the 
Missouri  River  in  steam-boats  with  flat  keel,  and 
with  the  ever-shifting  currents  and  sand-bars, 
safe  landings  were  always  uncertain.  The  bridge 
comprises  11  spans,  each  s-pan  250  feet  in  length, 
and  elevated  50  feet  above  high  water-mark. 
These  spans  are  supported  by  one  stone  masonry 
abutment,  and  11  piers  with  22  cast-iron  col- 
umns ;  each  pier  is  8  1-2  feet  in  diameter,  and 
made  of  cast-iron  in  tubes  one  and  three-fourths 
inches  in  thickness,  10  feet  in  length,  with  a 
weight  of  eight  tons.  As  fast  as  the  tubes  of 
the  columns  are  sunk,,  they  are  fitted  together, 
seams  made  air-tight,  and  process  continued  till 
the  complete  depth  and  height  is  attained.  Dur- 
ing the  building  of  the  bridge  from  February, 
1869,  when  work  first  commenced,  until  com- 
pletion in  1872  (excepting  a  period  of  eight 
months  suspension),  about  500  men  were  con- 
stantly employed.  Ten  steam-engines  were  iu 
use  for  the  purpose  of  operating  the  pneumatic 
works  to  hoist  the  cylinders,  help  put  the  super- 
structure into  position,  to  drive  piles  for  tempo- 
rary platforms  and  bridges,  and  to  excavate  sand 
within  the  columns.  The  columns  were  sunk 
into  the  bed  of  the  river  after  being  placed  in 
correct  position  by  the  following  method  :  The 
top  of  the  column  being  made  perfectly  air-tight, 
all  water  beneath  is  forced  out  by  pneumatic 
pressure.  Then  descending  into  the  interior,  a 
force  of  workmen  excavate  the  sand  and  earth, 
filling  buckets  which  are  quickly  hoisted  up- 
wards by  the  engines.  When  the  excavation 
has  reached  one  or  more  feet,  the  column  sinks 
gradually  inch  by  inch,  more  or  less  rapidly,  un- 
til a  solid  bottom  is  reached. 

The  least  time  in  which  any  column  was  sunk 
to  bed  rock  from  the  commencement  of  the  pneu- 
matic process  was  seven  days,  and  the  greatest 
single  depth  of  sinking  at  one  time  was  17  feet. 


The  greatest  depth  below  low  water  which  was 
reached  by  any  column,  at  bed  rock,  was  82  feet. 
The  greatest  pressure  to  which  the-  men  working 
in  the  columns  were  subjected,  was  54  pounds  per 
square  inch  in  excess  of  the  atmosphere.  When 
solid  foundation  is  once  obtained,  the  interior  of 
the  columns  are  filled  with  solid  stone  concrete 
for  about  25  feet,  and  thence  upward  with  ce- 
ment masonry,  till  the  bridge  is  reached. 

The  total  length  of  the  iron  structure  cf  the 
bridge  is  2,750  feet.  The  eastern  approach  is  by 
an  embankment  of  gradual  ascent  one  and  a, 
half  miles  in  length,  commencing  east  of  the 
Transfer  grounds,  and  almost  at  Council  Bluffs, 
and  thence  ascending  at  the  rate  of  35  feet  to 
the  mile  to  the  bridge. 

Metumiva. — The  old  depot  grounds  of  the 
Union  Pacific  Railroad  were  on  the  bank  of  the 
river  immediately  beneath  the  bridge.  When 
this  was  constructed,  in  order  to  connect  the  bridge 
and  main  line  of  the  railroad,  it  was  necessary  to 
construct,  directly  through  the  city,  a  branch  line 
of  road  7,000  feet  in  length,  and  construct  a 
new  depot  on  higher  ground,  of  which  as 
a  result,  witness  the  handsome,  new  structure, 
and  spacious  roof,  and  convenient  waiting- 
rooms.  From  the  first  abutment  to  the  bank, 
a  trestle-work  of  700  feet  more,  60  feet  in 
height  was  constructed;  thus  the  entire  length 
of  the  bridge,  with  necessary  approaches,  is 
9,950  feet.  Total  cost  is  supposed  to  be 
about  $2,650,000,  and  the  annual  revenue 
about  1400,000.  The  bridge  has  figured  nota- 
bly in  the  discussions  of  Congress,  whether 
or  not  it  should  be  considered  a  part  of 
the  Union  Pacific  Railroad.  The  recent  de- 
cision of  the  United  States  Supreme  Court 
has  at  last  declared  it  so  to  be,  and  with  this  is 
done  away  entirely  the  "  Omaha  Bridge  Trans- 
fer "  of  the  past. 

Preparing  for  the  Westward  Trip. — 
Having  rested  and  visited  the  principal  points 
of  interest  in  Omaha,  you  will  be  ready  to  take 
a  fresh  start.  Repairing  to  the  new  depot, 
finished,  at  the  crossing  of  Ninth  street,  you 
will  find  one  of  the  most  magnificent  trains  of 
cars  made  up  by  any  railroad  in  the  United 
States.  Everything  connected  with  them  is 
first-class.  Pullman  sleeping-coaches  are  at- 
tached to  all  express  trains,  and  all  travelers 
know  how  finely  they  are  furnished,  and  how 
they  tend  to  relieve  the  wearisome  monotony  of 
tedious  days  in  the  journey  from  ocean  to  ocean. 
At  this  depot  you  will  find  the  waiting-rooms, 
ticket-offices,  baggage-rooms,  lunch-stands,  news 
and  bookstand,  together  with  one  of  the  best 
kept  eating-houses  in  the  country.  You  will  find 
gentlemanly  attendants  at  all  these  places,  ready 
to  give  you  any  information,  and  cheerfully 
answer  your  questions.  If  you  have  a  little  time, 
step  into  the  Union  Pacific  Land  office  adjoining 
the  depot,  on  the  east,  and  see  some  of  the  pro- 


20 


ductions  of  this  prolific  western  soil.  If  you 
have  come  from  the  far  East,  it  has  been  a  slightly 
uphill  journey  all  the  way,  and  you  are  now  at 
an  elevation  of  966  feet  above  the  sea.  If  the 
weather  is  pleasant,  you  may  already  begin  to 
feel  the  exhilarating  effect  of  western  breezes, 
and  comparatively  dry  atmosphere.  With  books 
and  papers  to  while  away  your  leisure  hours,  you 
are  finally  ready  for  the  start.  The  bell  rings, 
the  whistle  shrieks,  and  off  you  go.  The  road 
first  winds  up  a 
little  valley,  passing 
the  Bridge  Junction 
1.5  (one  and  five- 
tenths)  miles  to 

Summit  Sid- 
ing, —  3.2  miles 
from  Omaha ;  eleva- 
tion 1,142  feet.  This 
place,  you  will  ob- 
serve by  these  fig- 
ures, is  reached  by 
a  heavy  up  grade. 
You  are  176  feet 
higher  than  when 
you  first  started,  and 
but  little  over  three 
miles  away.  Here  is 
a  deep  cut  through 
the  hill,  and  beyond 
it  you  strike  Mud 
Creek  Valley  with 
a  down  grade  for  a 
few  miles.  This 
creek  and  the  road 
run  south  on  a  line 
nearly  parallel  with, 
and  about  two  and 
a  half  miles  from, 
the  Missouri  River 
until  the  next  sta- 
tion is  reached. 

Gilmore. — It  is 
9.5  miles  from  Oma- 
ha, with  only  10  feet 
difference  in  eleva- 
tion—97 '6  feet.  The 
valley  is  quite  thick- 
ly settled,  and  as  you 

look  out  on  the  left  "  G0° 

side  of  the  cars,  about  four  miles  from  Omaha, 
you  will  see  a  saloon  called  Half-Way  House. 
At  about  this  point  you  leave  Douglas  County 
and  enter  Sarpy  County.  Gilmore  was  named 
after  an  old  resident  of  that  locality,  now  dead. 
Here  you  are  some  nine  miles  south  of  Omaha, 
but  only  about  three  west  of  the  Missouri 
River.  Here  you  will  first  see  what  are  called 
the  bottom  lands  of  Nebraska.  They  are  as 
rich  as  any  lands  on  this  Continent,  as  the  re- 
markable crops  raised  thereon  fully  attest. 
From  this  station  you  turn  nearly  due  west,  and 


pass  over  the  lower  circle  of  what  is  called  tho 
ox-bow. 

Papilion? —  14.5  miles  from  Omaha;  eleva- 
tion 972  feet,  is  the  next  station,  and  is  a  thriv- 
ing little  town  (pronounced  Pa-pil-yo).  It  derives 
its  name  from  the  creek  on  whose  banks  it  is  situ- 
ated. This  creek  was  named  by  Lewis  and  Clark 
in  their  expedition  to  Oregon,  in  1804,  and  is 
derived  from  a  Latin  word  which  means  butter- 
fly. The  main  branch  was  crossed  a  little  west 
of  Gilmore.  It  emp- 
ties into  the  Mis- 
souri River  about 
one  mile  north  of 
the  Platte  River.  It 
is  reported  that  the 
early  explorers 
named,  saw  an  im- 
mense number  of 
butterflies  in  the 
muddy  and  wet 
places  near  its 
mouth,  and  hence 
the  name.  These 
gentlemen  explored 
this  stream  to  its 
source,  near  the  Elk- 
horn  River.  The 
town  was  laid  out 
in  the  fall  of  1869 
by  Dr.  Beadle,  and 
is  the  permanent 
county-seat  of  Sar- 
py County.  It  lias 
a  fine  brick  court- 
house, and  a  brick 
school-house,  hotels, 
flouring  mills  and  a 
grain  ware-house ;  is 
located  as  are  all 
the  towns  on  the 
first  two  hundred 
miles  of  this  road, 
in  the  midst  of  a 
rich  agricultural 
country.  Sarpy 
County  has  two 
newspapers  —  one 
the  Papilion  Times, 
published  weekly  at 
this  place,  and  the  other,  the  Sarpy  County  Senti- 
nel, published  at  Sarpy  Center,  some  five  miles  in 
the  country  from  this  station.  Sarpy  is  one 
of  the  best  settled  counties  in  Nebraska,  and 
has  a  property  valuation  of  over  $8,000,000. 

Mittard—\&  named  for  Hon.  Ezra  Millard, 
president  of  the  Omaha  National  Bank,  who  has 
considerable  landed  property  here.  The  station- 
house  is  comparatively  new,  and  there  are  a  few 
other  buildings  recently  erected.  It  is  pleas- 
antly  located,  and,  like  all  western  towns,  has 
plenty  of  room  to  grow.  It  is  20.9  miles  from 


21 


Omaha  ;  elevation,  1,047  feet.  Evidences  of 
thrift  are  everywhere  visible  as  you  cast  your 
eyes  over  the  rolling  prairies,  and  yet  there  is 
ample  room  for  all  who  desire  to  locate  in  this 
vicinity.  You  have  again  crossed  the  boundary 
line  of  Sarpy  County,  which  is  a  mile  or  two 
south-east  of  Millard,  and  are  again  in  the 
County  of  Douglas. 

Elkhorn. —  28.9  miles  from  Omaha,  eleva- 
tion 1,150  feet.  This  is  a  growing  town,  and 
does  a  large  business  in  grain ;  it  has  an  ele- 
vator, grain  warehouses,  two  stores,  a  Catholic 
church,  good  school-house,  and  a  hotel.  You 
are  now  near  the  famous  Elkhorn  Valley  and 
River.  By  a  deep  cut,  the  railroad  makes  its 
way  through  the  bluff  or  hill  on  the  east  side 
of  this  stream,  about  a  mile  from  the  station, 


The  elevation  of  Waterloo  is  laid  down  at  1,140 
feet.  The  town  has  a  fine  water-power  which 
has  been  improved  by  the  erection  of  a  large 
flouring-mill.  It  also  has  two  steam  flouring- 
mills,  and  a  new  depot.  At  this  point  you 
enter  the  Platte  Valley,  of  which  so  much 
has  been  written  and  which  occupies  such  a 
prominent  place  in  the  history  of  the  country. 
The  Elkhorn  and  Platte  Rivers  form  a  junc- 
tion a  few  miles  south  of  this  point,  and  the 
banks  of  these  streams  are  more  or  less  studded 
with  timber,  mostly  cottonwood.  In  fact,  the 
Elkhorn  has  considerable  timber  along  its 
banks. 

Valley — is  35.2  miles  from  Omaha,  and  is 
1,120  feet  above  the  sea.  It  has  a  store  and 
hotel,  and  is  the  center  of  a  rich  farming  dis- 


NIGHT    SCENE.      PRAIRIE    ON  FIRE. 


and  then  on  a  down  grade  you  glide  into 
the  valley.  The  rolling  prairies  are  now  be- 
hind you  and  south,  beyond  the  Platte  River, 
which  for  the  first  time  comes  into  view.  Cross- 
ing the  Elkhorn  River  you  arrive  at 

Waterloo,  —  30.9  miles  from  Omaha,  and 
only  two  miles  from  the  last  station.  A  few 
years  since,  a  train  was  thrown  from  the  bridge 
spoken  of  by  reason  of  the  high  water  of  a 
freshet.  This  train  had  one  car  of  either  young 
fish  or  fish-eggs  in  transit ;  the  contents  of  this 
car  were  of  course  lost  in  the  river,  and  since 
that  time  the  Elkhorn  abounds  in  pike,  pickerel, 
bass,  sunfish  and  perch.  What  the  California 
streams  lost  by  this  disaster  the  Elkhorn  gained, 
as  these  fish  have  increased  rapidly  in  this 
stream,  where  they  were  previously  unknown. 


trict.  The  land  seems  low,  and  one  would  easily 
gain  the  impression  that  the  soil  here  was  very 
wet,  but  after  digging  through  the  black  surface 
soil  two  or  three  feet  you  come  to  just  such  sand 
as  is  found  in  the  channel  of  the  Platte.  In 
fact,  the  whole  Platte  Valley  is  underdrained  by 
this  river,  and  this  is  one  reason  why  surface 
water  from  hard  and  extensive  rains  so  quickly 
disappear,  and  why  the  land  is  able  to  produce 
such  good  crops  in  a  dry  season.  Water  is  ob- 
tained anywhere  in  this  valley  by  sinking 
what  are  called  drive-wells,  from  six  to  twenty 
feet.  Wind-mills  are  also  extensively  used 
by  large  farmers,  who  have  stock  which 
they  confine  upon  their  premises,  and  which 
otherwise  they  would  have  to  drive  some 
distance  for  water.  The  Omaha  and  Republi- 


22 


can  Valley  Kailroad  runs  to  Stromsburg  and 
Lincoln. 

Mercer,  which  is  41.4  miles  from  Omaha, 
with  an  elevation  of  about  1,140  feet.  It  will 
eventually  become  a .  station,  as  many  trains 
already  meet  and  pass  here. 

Prairie  Firez. — During  the  first  night's 
ride  westward  from  Omaha,  the  traveler,  as 
he  gazes  out  of  his  car  window  (which  he 
can  easily  do  while  reclining  in  his  berth)  will 
often  find  his  curious  attention  rewarded  by  a 
sight  of  one  of  the  most  awful,  yet  grandest 
scenes  of  prairie  life.  The  prairies,  which  in 
the  day-time  to  some,  seemed  dry,  dull,  uninter- 
esting, occasionally  give  place  at  night,  to  the 
lurid  play  of  the  fire-fiend,  and  the  heavens 
and  horizon  seem  like  a  furnace.  A  prairie  on 
fire  is  a  fearfully  exciting  and  fear-stirring  sight. 
Cheeks  blanch  as  the  wind  sweeps  its  volume 
toward  the  observer,  or  across  his  track.  Full  in 
the  distance  is  seen  the  long  line  of  bright  flame 
stretching  for  miles,  with  its  broad  band  of  dark 
smoke-clouds  above.  As  the  train  comes  near, 
the  flames  leap  higher,  and  the  smoke  ascends 
higher,  and  on  their  dark  bosom  is  reflected  the 
fires'  brilliantly-tinged  light.  Sweeping  away  for 
miles  towards  the  bluffs,  the  fire  jumps  with  the 
wind,  and  the  flames  leap  20  to  30,  or  more 
feet  into  the  air,  and  for  miles  brighten  the 
prairies  with  tne  awful  sight.  We  have  never 
seen  anything  of  prairie  life  or  scenery  possessing 
such  majestic  brilliance  as  the  night  glows,  and 
rapid  advances  of  a  prairie  fire.  Far  out  on 
the  prairies,  beyond  the  settlements,  the  prairie 
fires,  (usually  set  on  fire  by  the  sparks  from 
the  locomotives)  rage  unchecked  for 
miles  and  miles,  but  nearer  to  the  little 
settlements,  where  the  cabins  have 
justbeeii  set  up,  the  fire  is  their  deadli- 
est and  most  dreaded  enemy.  No  words 
can  describe,  no  pencil  paint  the  look  of 
terror  when  the  settler  beholds  advanc- 
ing toward  him  the  fire-fiend,  for  which 
he  is  unprepared  and  unprotected. 
"When  the  first  sign  of  the  advancing 
fire  is  given,  all  hands  turn  out ;  either 
a  counter  fire  is  started,  which,  eating 
from  the  settler's  ranch,  in  the  face  of 
the  wind,  toward  the  grander  coming 
volume,  takes  away  its  force,  and  leaves 
it  nothing  to  feed  upon,  or  furrows 
are  broken  with  the  plow  around  the 
settler's  home.  The  cool  earth  thrown 
up,  and  all  the  grass  beyond  this  is 
fired,  while  the  little  home  enclosed 
within,  is  safe.  A  curious  feature  of 
prairie  fires  is,  that  the  buffalo  grass, 
the  next  season,  is  darker  and  richer 
than  ever  before ;  and  lower  down,  in 
sections  where  the  prairie  fires  are 
carefully  kept  off,  trees,  shrubs,  bushes,  etc., 
of  many  varieties,  grow  up  spontaneously, 


which  never  were  seen  before.  So  long  as 
prairie  fires  rage,  nothing  will  grow  but  the  little 
tufts  of  prairie  grass.  Wherever  the  prairie  fire 
ceases  or  is  kept  restrained,  vegetation  of  all  de- 
scription as  far  west  as  the  Platte,  is  completely 
changed.  In  the  fall  of  the  year  these  fires  are 
most  frequent ;  and  creating  a  strong  current  or 
breeze  by  their  own  heat,  they  advance  with  the 
rapidity  often  of  a  locomotive,  20  or  more  miles 
an  hour,  and  their  terrible  lurid  light  by  night, 
and  blackened  path  left  behind,  as  seen  next  day 
by  the  traveler,  are  sights  never  to  be  forgotten. 
In  the  lower  river  counties  a  prairie  fire  often 
originates  from  the  careless  dropping  of  a  match, 
or  the  ashes  shaken  from  a  pipe.  The  little 
spark  touches  the  dry  grass  like  tinder — the  con- 
stant breeze  fans  the  little  flame,  and  five  minutes 
after  it  has  covered  yards.  The  loss  to  tillers  of 
the  soil  is  often  appalling.  One  of  General 
Sherman's  veterans,  in  describing  a  prairie  fire  to 
a  visitor,  raising  himself  to  his  full  six  feet 
height,  and  with  eye  flashing  as  in  battle  excite- 
ment, said :  "  Mr.  C.,  if  I  should  catch  a  man  firing 
the  prairie  at  this  time,  as  God  helps  me,  I  would 
shoot  him  down  in  his  deed."  A  traveler  riding 
on  the  prairie  said,  "  only  a  few  miles  from  me 
an  emigrant,  traveling  in  his  close-covered  wagon 
"  with  the  wind,  "«  was  overtaken  by  the  flames 
coming  down  on  him  unseen.  Horses,  family, 
wagon,  were  all  destroyed  in  a  moment,  and  him- 
self barely  lived  long  enough  to  tell  the  tale. 
Nearly  every  night  in  autumn  the  prairies  of  the 
boundless  West,  show  either  the  near  or  distant 
glow  of  a  fire,  which  in  extent  has  the  appear- 
ance of  another  burning  Chicago. 


BCSTED." 


/'/'/.  r'.s  /Vr/A'  or  Ilitsf. — This  expression  has 
become  widely  known,  and  received  its  origin  as 


23 


follows : — At  the  time  of  the  opening  of  the 
Pike's  Peak  excitement  in  gold  diggings,  t\vc 
pioneers  made  themselves  conspicuous  by  paint- 
ing in  large  letters  on  the  side  of  their  wagon 
cover : — "  Pike's  Peak  or  J3uxt."  In  their  haste  to 
reach  this,  the  newly  discovered  Eldorado,  they 
scorned  all  safety  and  protection  offered  by  the 
"  train  "  and  traveled  alone,  and  on  their  "  own 
hook." 

For  days  and  weeks  they  escaped  the  dangers 
attending  their  folly,  and  passed  unharmed  until 
they  reached  the  roving  ground  of  the  bloody 
Sioux.  Here  they  were  surrounded  and  cruelly 
and  wantonly  murdered ;  their  bodies  were  driven 
through  with  arrows,  and  pinned  to  the  earth, 
and  left  to  the  sunshine  and  storms  of  the 
skies. 

Fremont — is  46.5  miles  from  Omaha,  and 
has  an  elevation  of  1,176  feet.  It  is  the  county- 
seat  of  Dodge  County,  and  has  a  population  of 
full  3",000.  In  the  year  1880,  over  $100,000  were 
expended  in  buildings  in  this  growing  young 
city.  It  has  never,  so  far  as  population  is  con- 
cerned, experienced  what  may  be  called  a  great 
rush — its  growth  having  been  slow  and  steady. 
It  is  located  near  the  south-east  corner  of  the 
county.  Originally  the  town  comprised  a  whole 
section  of  land,  but  was  afterwards  reduced  to 
about  half  a  section.  Th3  town  company  was  or- 
ganized on  the  26th  day  of  August,  1856,  and  in 
that  and  the  following  year,  thirteen  log  houses 
were  built.  John  C.  Horinel  built  the  first  frame 
house  in  1857.  The  Union  Pacific  reached  the 
town  on  the  24th  day  of  January,  1866,  nearly 
ten  years  after  it  was  first  laid  out,  and  trains 
ran  to  it  regularly,  though  the  track  was  laid 
some  11  miles  beyond,  when  work  ceased  for  that 
winter.  The  Sioux  City  and  Pacific  road  was 
completed  to  Fremont  late  in  the  fall  of  1868. 
In  the  expectations  of  the  residents,  it  was  then 
to  become  a  railroad  center,  and  lots  were  sold  at 
large  prices.  This  last-named  road  runs  from 
Blair  on  the  Missouri  River,  where  it  crosses 
said  stream  and  forms  a  junction  with  the  Chi- 
cago and  North-western.  It  then  runs  north  on 
the  east  side  of  said  river,  to  Sioux  City.  The 
Elkhorn  Valley  Railroad  completed  the  first  ten 
miles  of  its  track  in  1869,  and  the  balance,  some 
seventy  miles,  was  finished  to  Norfolk  in  1880. 
This  road  is  one  of  the  natural  routes  to  the 
Black  Hills,  and  it  is  now  stated  that  it  will 
soon  be  extended  in  that  direction.  It  will  con- 
tinue up  the  Elkhorn  Valley  to  near  its  source, 
and  then  crossing  the  divide,  will  strike  into  the 
Niobrara  Valley;  thence  westward  until  the 
Black  Hills  are  reached.  This  road  is  a  feeder  to 
IFremont,  and  very  valuable  to  its  trade.  At  a 
date  not  far  distant,  Fremont  will  doubtless 
become  a  flourishing  city,  owing  its  prosperity, 
in  common  with  many  other  towns,  to  the  agency 
of  the  railroads  which  will  soon  connect  it 
with  every  place  of  importance.  Other  railroad 


projects  are  contemplated,  which  will  make  this 
place  in  reality  a  railroad  center. 

Fremont  has  a  large,  new  hotel,  the  Occi- 
dental, and  several  smaller  ones  ;  has  the 
finest  opera  house  in  the  West,  and  the  largest 
lud  finest  dry-goods  house  in  the  State.  It 
has  five  or  six  church  edifices,  and  an  ele- 
gant public  school  building,  two  banks, 
three  or  four  elevators,  a  steam  flouring 
mill,  extensive  broom  factories,  and  two  or 
three  manufacturing  establishments  where 
headers  are  made.  It  also  has  a  foundry 
and  machine-shop.  It  is  now  a  regular  eat- 
ing station  on  the  railroad,  all  passenger 
trains  east  or  west  stopping  here  for  din- 
ner, which  is  really  most  abundant  and  ex- 
cellent. 

Fremont  is  virtually  located  at  the  junction  of 
the  Elkhorn  and  Piatte  Valleys,  and  from  its 
position  naturally  controls  a  large  scope  of  coun- 
try. Its  people  are  industrious,  wide-awake  and 
energetic.  It  is  in  the  midst  of  a  thickly-settled 
region,  and  its  future  prospects  are  very  flatter- 
ing. 

Fremont  has  two  newspapers  —  the  Fremont 
Herald  (daily  and  weekly),  and  the  Fremont 
'tribune  (weekly).  The  latter  was  first  estab- 
lished, and  probably  has  the  largest  circulation. 
The  enterprise  of  newspapers  in  these  western 
towns,  contribute  very  largely  to  their  growth 
and  prosperity.  The  town  is  the  fourth  in  size 
and  population  in  the  State. 

The  Elkhorn  Valley  is  between  two  and  three 
hundred  miles  in  length,  is  well  timbered  and 
remarkably  fertile,  and  the  railroad  which  is  to 
do  the  carrying  business  of  this  valley,  has  its 
terminus  at  Fremont. 

The  Great  Piatte  Valley. — You  have 
now  passed  over  a  few  miles  of  the  great 
Piatte  Valley.  At  Fremont  it  spreads  out  won- 
derfully, and  for  the  first  two  hundred  miles 
varies  in  width  from  five  to  fifteen  miles. 
Through  nearly  all  its  eastern  course,  this  river 
hugs  the  bluffs  on  its  southern  side.  These  bluffs 
as  well  as  those  more  distant  on  the  northern  side 
of  the  valley,  are  plainly  visible  from  the  cars. 
Before  the  road  was  built,  this  valley  was  the 
great  highway  of  overland  travel  to  Colorado, 
Utah,  California,  and  Oregon.  Immense  trains 
of  wagons,  heavily  freighted,  have  passed  over  it, 
in  their  slow  and  tedious  journeyings  towards 
the  setting  sun.  Leaving  the  Missouri  at  differ- 
ent points,  the  routes  nearly  all  converged  in  the 
Piatte  Valley,  and  thence  westward  to  their  des- 
tination. The  luxuriant  grasses,  and  the  prox- 
imity to  water,  made  this  the  favorite  route.  It 
has  also  been  the  scene  of  deadly  conflicts  with 
the  savages,  and  the  bones  of  many  a  wanderer 
lie  bleaching  in  the  air,  or  are  buried  beneath 
some  rough  and  hastily-made  mound  near  the 
beaten  road.  But  a  wonderful  change  took  place 
with  the  advent  of  the  road.  The  "  bull-whacker," 


REPRESENTATIVE  MEN  OF  THE  UNION   PACIFIC   RAILROAD. 


25 


with  his  white-covered  wagon  and  raw-boned 
oxen — his  slang  phrases,  and  profane  expressions, 
his  rough  life,  and  in  many  instances  violent 
death — the  crack  of  his  long  lash  that  would  ring 
out  in  the  clear  morning  air  like  that  of  a  rifle,  and 
his  wicked  goad  or  prod — an  instrument  of  tor- 
ture to  his  beasts — with  all  that  these  things 
imply,  have  nearly  passed  away.  Their  glory 
has  departed,  and  in  their  place  is  the  snorting 
engine  and  the  thundering  train. 

The  remarkable  agricultural  advantages  of 
this  valley  are  everywhere  visible,  and  it  is 
rapidly  filling  up  with  an  industrious  and  thrifty 
class  of  farmers.  The  land  grant  of  the  Union 
Pacific  Company  extends  for  twenty  miles  on 
either  side  of  the  road,  and  includes  every  alter- 
nate section  of  land  that  was  not  taken  at  the 
time  it  was  withdrawn  from  the  market,  for  the 
benefit  of  the  company.  If  you  pass  a  long  dis- 
tance in  the  first  two  hundred  miles  of  this 
valley  without  observing  many  improvements,  it 
is  pretty  good  evidence  that  the  land  is  held  by 
non-resident  speculators,  and  this  fact  has  a 
great  influence  in  retarding  the  growth  of  the 
country.  Around  many  of  the  residences  are 
large  groves  of  cotton-wood  trees  that  have  been 
planted  by  industrious  hands  and  which  give 
evidence  of  unusual  thrift.  In  fact,  the  cotton- 
wood  in  most  every  part  of  this  region  is  indig- 
enous to  the  soil,  and  will  thriftily  grow  where 
other  kinds  of  timber  fail.  Trees  sixty  feet  high 
and  from  eight  to  ten  inches  in  diameter,  are  no 
uncommon  result  of  six  to  eight  years'  growth. 
The  banks  of  the  Platte  and  the  many  islands  in 
its  channel,  were  formerly  very  heavily  timbered 
with  cotton-wood,  but  that  on  its  banks  has 
almost  entirely  disappeared,  together  with  much 
that  was  upon  the  islands.  The  favorable  State 
and  national  legislation  in  regard  to  tree  planting 
will  cause  an  increase  in  the  timber  land  of 
Nebraska  in  a  very  short  time,  and  must  of 
necessity,  have  an  influence  upon  its  climate. 
Many  scientists  who  are  familiar  with  the  cir- 
cumstances attending  the  rapid  development  of 
the  trans-Missouri  plains  and  the  elevated  plateau 
joining  the  base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  assert 
that  this  vast  region  of  country  is  gradually 
undergoing  important  climatic  changes — and  that 
one  of  the  results  of  these  changes  is  the  an- 
nually increasing  rainfall.  The  rolling  lands 
adjoining  this  valley  are  all  very  fertile,  and  with 
proper  tillage  produce  large  crops  of  small  grain. 
The  bottom  lands  are  better  adapted  for  corn, 
because  it  matures  later  in  the  season,  and  these 
bottom  lands  are  better  able  to  stand  drouth  than 
the  uplands.  The  roots  of  the  corn  penetrate  to  a 
great  depth,  till  they  reach  the  moisture  from 
the  under-drainage.  One  of  the  finest  sights 
that  meets  the  eye  of  the  traveler,  is  the  Platte 
Valley  in  the  spring  or  early  summer;  to  our 
eastern  farmer,  it  is  fairly  captivating,  and  all 
who  are  familiar  with  farms  and  farming  in  the 


Eastern  States,  will  be  surprised ;  no  stumps  or 
stones  or  other  obstacles  appear  to  interfere  with 
the  progress  of  the  plow,  and  the  black  surface-soil 
is,  without  doubt,  the  accumulation  of  vegetable 
matter  for  ages.  The  Platte  Valley  must  be  seen 
to  be  appreciated.  Only  a  few  years  ago  it  was 
scarcely  tenanted  by  man,  and  wnile  the  develop- 
ment has  been  marked,  it  will  not  compare  with 
that  which  is  sure  to  take  place  in  the  near 
future.  There  is  ample  room  for  the  millions 
yet  to  come,  and  the  lands  of  the  Union  Pacific 
Company  are  exceedingly  cheap,  vaiying  in 
price  from  $3  to  $10  per  acre.  The  alternate 
sections  of  government  land  for  the  first  two 
hundred  miles  of  this  valley  are  nearly  all 
taken  by  homesteaders,  or  under  the  preemp- 
tion laws  of  congress.  Much  of  it,  however, 
can  be  purchased  at  a  low  price  from  the  occu- 
pants, who,  as  a  general  thing,  desire  to  sell  out 
and  go  West  still.  They  belong  to  the  uneasy, 
restless  class  of  frontiers-men,  who  have  decided 
objections  to  neighbors  and  settlements,  and  who 
want  plenty  of  room,  with  no  one  to  molest,  in 
order  to  grow  up  with  the  country.  A  sod  house 
near  a  living  spring  of  water  is  to  them  a  small 
paradise.  They  might  possibly  suffer  from  thirst, 
if  they  had  to  dig  for  water,  and  the  labor  re- 
quired to  build  even  a  sod  house,  is  obnoxious. 
But  this  will  not  hold  good  of  all  of  them. 
There  are  many  occupants  of  these  sod  houses  in 
the  State  of  Nebraska,  and  other  parts  of  the 
West,  who,  with  scanty  means  are  striving  for  a, 
home  for  their  wives  and  children,  and  they  cling 
to  the  soil  upon  which  they  have  obtained  a  claim 
with  great  tenacity,  and  with  sure  prospects  of 
success.  They  are  woi  thy  ol  all  praise  in  their 
self-sacrificing  efforts.  A  tew  years  only  will 
pass  by  before  they  will  b,  surrounded  with  all 
the  comforts  and  n.any  of  the  luxuries  of  life. 
These  are  the  experiences  of  many  who  "  bless 
their  stars  "  to-day  that  they  have  sod  houses — 
homes — in  and  adjoining  the  great  Platte  Valley. 
Shooting  Prairie  Hens. — This  is  a  favor- 
ite scene,  often  witnessed  September  mornings  in 
the  far  West.  The  prairie  is  covered  with  its 
grjj,ss,  and  wild  flowers,  which  last  all  the  season 
through.  Here  and  there  is  a  stubble  field  of  oats, 
wheat,  or  acres  on  acres  of  the  golden  corn, 
swaying  gracefully  in  the  breeze,  and  perhaps 
there  is  a  little  music  from  the  meadow  larks  or 
bird  songsters  of  the  fields.  The  dogs  with  keen- 
est of  scent,  hunt  out  and  stir  up  the  game,  and 
as  they  rise  on  wing,  the  ready  gun  with  its  aim, 
and  deadly  shot,  brings  them  back  lifeless.  This 
is  probably  the  most  attractive  way  to  look  at  a 
prairie  hen,  for  we  must  confess  that  after  a  slice 
or  two  of  the  meat,  as  usually  served  at  the  eat- 
ing stations  of  the  railroads,  from  which  we 
escape  with  danger  to  our  front  teeth,  and  unsat- 
isfied stomachs,  we  can  only  exclaim  "  distance 
lends  enchantment."  However  tough  the  meat, 
if  served  on  the  table  when  first  killed,  yet  if 


26 


kept  till  it  grows  gradually  more  tender,  there  is 
a  wild,  spicy  flavor,  which  make  them  very  agtee- 
able  eating.  Buffalo  meat  and  prairie  hens  are 
not 'altogether  reliable  as  viands  of  the  railroad 
dining  stations,  still  every  one  must  try  for  him- 
self, with  here  and  there  a  chance  of  finding 
sweet  and  tender  morsels. 


good  an  illustration  as  any,  of  the  rapid  growth 
of  some  of  the  western  towns  and  counties.  The 
county  was  organized  in  the  spring  of  1869,  two 
years  after  the  railroad  had  passed  through  it, — 
with  Schuyler  as  the  county-seat.  In  the  spring 
of  the  present  year,  1831,  it  has  an  assessed 
valuation  of  over  $1,700,000,  and  a  population  of 


1UNTIXG    PBAI11IE    HENS. 


Antes — At  present  simply  a  side  track,  53.5 
miles  from  Omaha,  and  1,270  feet  above  the  sea. 
This  was  formerly  called  Ketchum  ;  but  bears  its 
present  name  from  Oliver  Ames,  Esq.,  one  of  the 
builders  of  this  railroad.  Observe  the  size  of 
the  trees  in  the  cotton-wood  groves  and  hedges 
near  this  place — all  planted  within  the  memory 
of  the  oldest  inhabitant. 

North  Send — 61.5  miles  from  the  eastern 
terminus  of  the  road,  and  1.259  feet  in  elevation, 
a  little  less  than  the  preceding  station.  This  is 
a  thriving  little  town,  with  several  stores,  hotel, 
lumber-yard,  grain  elevator,  etc.  It  has  a  pon- 
toon bridge  across  the  Platte  River,  which 
will  materially  increase  its  trade  with  Saunders 
County  on  the  south.  The  opening  of  many  farms 
in  its  vicinity  have  made  it  quite  a  grain  market. 
The  town  is  so  named  from  a  northward  bend  in 
the  river,  and  it  is  the  northernmost  point  on  the 
Union  Pacific  in  the  State  of  Nebraska.  The 
population  is  about  300. 

Itof/ers — is  a  side-track,  will  eventually  be- 
come a  station ;  is  in  the  midst  of  a  rich  farm- 
ing country ;  is  68.5  miles  from  Omaha,  and  has 
an  elevation  of  1,359  feet. 

Schuyler. — Thecounty-seatofColfax  County, 
Tt  is  75.9  miles  from  Omaha,  with  an  elevation  of 
1,335  feet.  This  town  and  county,  perhaps,  is  as 


1,500  or  more.  Evidences  of  substantial  growth 
are  everywhere  visible.  The  town  has  about 
twenty  stores,  of  all  kinds,  two  hotels,  a  substan- 
tial brick  court-house,  five  churches,  a  beautiful 
school-house,  grain  elevators,  etc.  New  buildings 
to  accommodate  its  increasing  trade,  or  its  new 
residents,  are  constantly  going  up.  There  are 
three  flouring-mills  in  the  county,  on  Shell  Creek, 
a  beautiful  stream  fed  by  living  springs,  which 
runs  nearly  through  the  county  from  west  to  east, 
and  from  one  to  five  miles  north  of  the  railroad 
track.  The  land  in  this  county  is  most  excellent, 
especially  the  rolling  up-land  north  of  Shell  Creek. 
Some  of  the  finest  crops  of  spring  wheat  raised 
in  the  West  are  grown  in  this  vicinity.  The  peo- 
ple are  turning  their  attention  to  stock-raising 
more  than  formerly,  and  several  flocks  of  sheep 
and  herds  of  cattle  are  now  kept  in  the  county,  by 
some  of  its  enterprising  stock-men.  All  of  this 
accomplished  in  about  six  years.  Schuyler  is  the 
third  town  west  of  Omaha  that  has  a  bridge  across 
the  Platte,  Fremont  being  the  first.  These  bridges 
are  very  advantageous  to  the  trade  of  the  towns 
in  this  valley. 

Benton. — A  small  station  83.7  miles  from 
Omaha,  with  an  elevation  of  1,440  feet.  Up  to 
a  late  period  the  land  surrounding  this  station 
has  been  mostly  held  by  speculators,  but  a  change 


27 


having  been  effected,  the  town  has  brighter  pros- 
pects. Lots  are  freely  given  away  to  parties  who 
•will  build  on  them.  The  location  is  a  very  fine 
one  for  a  town,  and  it  is  surrounded  by  an  ex- 
cellent country.  It  is  the  last  town  west  in 
Col  fax  County. 

Columbus — is  91.7  miles  from  Omaha.  It  is 
1,432  feet  above  the  sea.  A  beautiful  growing 
town,  with  a  rich  agricultural  country  to  back 
it.  It  has  seven  churches,  school  buildings, 
brick  court-house,  grain  elevator  doing  a  large 
business.  Good  hotels  and  other  building  enter- 
prises contemplated.  It  is  located  at  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Loup  Fork,  with  the  Platte  Rivers, 
and  near  where  the  old  overland  emigrant  road 
crossed  the  first-named  stream.  It  now  has  a 
population  of  about  2,200  people,  and  supports 
two  newspapers  which  have  large  patronage  and 
circulation  ;  the  Journal,  which  was  first  estab- 
lished, and  the  Era.  Columbus  has  had  two 
lives  thus  far.  The  first  town-site  was  jumped 
by  a  party  of  Germans  from  Columbus,  O., 
from  which  it  takes  its  name.  Afterwards  the 
two  interests  were  consolidated.  It  was  the 
principal  town  west  of  Omaha  until  the  rail- 
road came.  The  old  town,  near  the  ferry  cross- 
ing, was  then  moved  to  its  present  site  near 
the  station.  The  old  town  had  two  or  three 
small  stores,  a  blacksmith's  shop,  and  saloons 
ad  libitum.  It  was  mostly  kept  alive  by  the 
westward  emigration.  At  that  time  the  Platte 
Valley  was  well  supplied  with  ranches  and 
ranchmen,  only  other  names  for  whisky-shops 
and  bar-tenders.  During  the  week  those  con- 
cerns would  pick  up  what  they  could  from  wagon - 
trains,  and  Sundays  the  ranchmen  would  crowd 
into  Columbus  to  spend  it — the  sharpers  improv- 
ing the  opportunity  to  fleece  the  victims  of  their 
seductive  wiles.  At  this  time  no  attention  what- 
ever was  paid  to  agricultural  pursuits.  On  the 
advent  of  the  railroad  in  1866,  the  wood-chop- 
pers, the  freighters,  the  ranchmen  and  others, 
lured  by  the  charms  of  a  frontier  life,  jumped 
the  town  and  country.  They  could  not  endure 
the  proximity  to,  and  restraints  of  civilization. 
Then  the  second  or  new  life  of  the  town  be- 
gan. Farmers  began  to  come  in,  and  it  was 
found  by  actual  experiment  that  the  soil  was 
immensely  prolific ;  that  it  had  only  to  be  tickled 
with  the  plow  in  order  to  laugh  with  the  golden 
harvests.  In  the  lapse  of  the  few  brief  years 
of  its  second  or  permanent  growth,  it  has  be- 
come a  great  grain  market,  aud  probably  ships 
more  car-lo.ids  each  year  (1,785  car-loads  last  year) 
than  any  other  town  on  the  line  of  the  road. 
Men  draw  grain  from  seventy  to  eighty  miles  to 
this  place  for  a  market.  It  has  access  to  the 
country  south  of  the  Loup  and  Platte  Rivers,  by 
means  of  good,  substantial  bridges  ;  while  the 
country  north  of  it  is  as  fine  rolling  prairie  as 
can  be  found  in  any  part  of  the  West — well 
watered  and  adapted  to  either  grazing  or  the 


growing  of  crops.  The  men  who  tirst  came  to 
Columbus  were  nearly  all  poor,  and  it  has  been 
built  up  and  improved  by  the  capital  they  have 
acquired  through  their  own  industrious  toil. 
The  town  has  a  good  bank,  without  a  dollar  of 
foreign  capital.  The  A.  &  N.  R.  R.  runs  south- 
east to  Atchison,  and  Niobrara  and  Black  Hills 
Branch  U.  P.  R.  R.  northward  to  Norfolk.  In  the 
immediate  vicinity  are  large  quantities  of  good 
lands  which  are  held  at  low  prices.  These  are 
only  a  few  of  the  many  advantages  which  Colum- 
bus offers  to  those  in  search  of  future  homes. 

How  Buffalo  Koben  are  Minle. — George 
Clother  is  one  of  the  proprietors  of  the  Clother 
House  at  Columbus,  Neb.  It  is  one  of  the  best 
home-like  hostelries  in  the  Wes|»  Mr.  Clother 
is  an  old  resident,  having  been  in  Columbus  six- 
teen years.  When  he  first  came,  the  country  was 
more  or  less  overrun  with  wandering  tribes  of 
Indians,  among  whom  were  the  Pawnees,  the 
Omahas,  the  Sioux,  and  occasionally  a  stray  band 
from  some  other  tribe.  In  those  days  he  was 
accustomed  to  traffic  in  furs  and  robes,  and  the 
business  has  grown  with  his  increasing  acquaint- 
ance, until  it  is  now  both  large  and  profitable, 
though  with  the  disappearance  of  both  Indians 
and  buffaloes,  it  is  liable  to  decrease  in  the  future. 
General  Sheridan,  we  think  it  was,  said  that  the 
vexed  Indian  question  would  be  settled  with  the 
fate  of  the  buffaloes — that  both  would  disappear 
together.  During  the  past  few  years,  the  slaugh- 
ter of  these  proud  rnonarchs  of  the  plains,  has 
been  immense,  and  will  continue,  unless  Congress 
interposes  a  friendly  and  saving  hand.  It  is  safe 
to  say,  that  millions  of  them  have  been  killed 
for  their  hides  alone,  or  "  just  for  fun,"  which  in 
this  case  amounts  to  the  same  thing,  as  their 
hides  have  been  repeatedly  sold  for  less  than  a 
dollar,  and  regularly  not  more  than  $1.50.  This 
slaughtering  has  taken  place  principally  in  the 
Platte,  Republican,  Solomon,  and  Arkansas  Val- 
leys, and  where  a  few  years  since,  travelers  could 
see  countless  thousands  of  them  from  the  car 
windows  and  platforms,  on  either  the  Union 
Pacific,  Kansas  Pacific  or  Atchison,  Topeka  & 
Santa  Fe  Railroads,  they  now,  probably  will  see 
but  few,  if  any.  Their  hides  have  been  shipped 
East,  where  they  make  a  poor  quality  of  leather. 
Those  only  which  are  taken  late  in  the  fall  and 
during  the  winter  months  of  January  and  Febru- 
ary, are  fit  for  robes.  The  hair  at  this  season  of 
the  year,  is  thick  and  firmly  set. 

About  the  time  this  killing  process  began  in 
1870,  Mr.  Clother  entered  upon  the  work  of  tan- 
ning robes,  employing  for  this  purpose  the  squaws 
of  the  Pawnee  and  Omaha  tribes.  The  Pawnee 
reservation  was  only  a  short  distance  from  Co- 
lumbus, and  the  "  Bucks "  were  glad  of  the 
opportunity  of  employment  for  their  squaws. 
Labor  is  beneath  their  dignity,  and  they  despise  it. 
Besides  this,  tanning  robes  is  hard  and  slow  work, 
and  in  their  opinion,  just  fit  for  squaws.  For  a 


28 


few  years  the  squaws  of  both  of  the  tribes  named, 
have  been  engaged  by  Mr.  Clother,  but  the  de- 
parture of  the  Pawnees  to  their  reservation  in 
the  Indian  Territory,  precluded  the  possibility  of 
their  employment,  and  hence  in  the  winter  of 
1876,  the  Omahas  seem  to  have  a  monopoly  of  the 
work,  though  there  is  not  as  much  to  do  as  for- 
merly. W  e  visited  their  camp  to  inspect  the  proc- 
ess of  making  robes.  It  was  located  in  a  body 
of  heavy  tirnoer,  with  a  thick  growth  of  under- 
brush, on  the  narrow  point  of  land  where  the 
Loup  Fork  and  Platte  Rivers  form  their  junction. 
The  low  bushes  made  a  perfect  wind-break,  and 
in  the  midst  of  the  tall  trees  their  Sibley  tents 
were  pitched.  The  barking  of  numerous  dogs 
greeted  our  approach,  and  after  making  a  few 
inquiries  of  one  or  two  who  could  talk  broken 


English,  we  crawled  into  the  tent  occupied  by 
the  "  Bucks,"  whom  we  found  intensely  interested 
in  gambling — playing  a  game  with  cards  called 
"  21."  In  this  tent  were  nine  "  Bucks  "  and  one 
squaw;  three  sat  stolidly  by — disinterested  wit- 
nesses of  the  game ;  the  squaw  was  engaged  at 
some  very  plain  needle-work,  and  occasionally 
poked  the  partly  burned  brands  into  the  fire, 
which  was  in  the  center  of  the  tent,  and  over 
which  hung  a  kettle  of  boiling  meat;  the  re- 
maining six,  sitting  upon  a  blanket  a  la  Turk; 
were  shuffling  and  dealing  the  cardsY  Of  course 
they,  play  for  money,  and  before  th£m  were  sev- 
eral quarters  in  currency,  and  several  silver  quar- 
ters, with  some  small  sticks,  which  were  used  as 
money,  and  which  enabled  them  to  keep  an  ac- 
count with  each  other,  of  the  gains  and  losses. 
During  this  game  they  passed  around,  several 
times,  a  hollow-handled  tomahawk,  which  was 
used  as  a  pipe.  One  would  take  three  or  four 
whiffs,  then  pass  it  to  the  next,  and  so  on,  until 
it  had  been  passed  around  several  times.  One  of 
these  "  Bucks "  was  called  "  Spafford."  He 
could  talk  English  quite  well.  After  a  while  we 
asked  "  Spafford  "  to  show  us  some  robes,  but  he 


29 


pointed  in  the  direction  of  his  tent,  and  indicated 
where  they  could  be  found.  He  said  he  could 
not  leave  the  game  just  then.  We  went  to  Lis 
tent  where  we  found  his  mother,  who  showed  us 
two  robes,  one  of  which  was  hers — a  smaller  one 
which  she  held  at  six  dollars.  Spaft'ord  had  pre- 
viously told  us  that  $12.00  was  the  price  of  his 
robe.  We  then  began  to  look  for  other  robes, 
and  saw  them  in  various  stages  of  completion. 
The  process  of  tanning  is  simple,  and  yet,  Indian 
tanned  robes  far  excel  those  tanned  by  white 
men,  in  finish  and  value.  When  the  hides  are 
first  taken  from  the  animals,  they  must  be 
stretched  and  dried,  flesh  side  up ;  if  they  are 
not  in  this  condition  when  the  squaws  receive 
them,  they  must  do  it.  After  they  are  thor- 
oughly dried,  the  squaws  then  take  all  the  flesh 
off,  and  reduce  them  to  an  even  thickness,  with 
an  instrument,  which,  for  want  of  a  better  name, 
may  be  termed  an  adze ;  it  is  a  little  thin  piece 
of  iron,  about  two  inches  long  on  the  edge,  and 
two  and  a  half  inches  deep.  This  is  firmly  tied 
to  a  piece  of  the  thigh  bone  of  an  elk,  and  is 
used  the  same  as  a  small  garden  hoe,  by  eastern 
farmers  in  cutting  up  weeds.  When  the  requi- 
site thickness  is  obtained,  the  flesh  side  is  cov- 
ered with  a  preparation  of  lard,  soap  and  salt,  and 
the  robe  is  then  rolled  up  and  laid  by  for  two 
or  three  days.  It  is  then  unrolled  and  again 
stretched  on  a  frame,  like  a  quilt,  with  flesh  side 
to  the  sun;  in  this  shape  it  is  scraped  with  a 
thin,  oval-shaped  piece  of  iron  or  steel,  resem- 
bling a  kitchen  chopping-knife  without  the  han- 
dle; this  process  usually  lasts  about  two  days. 
The  robe  is  then  taken  from  the  frame,  and 
drawn  across  a  rope  stretched  between  two  trees, 
with  the  flesh  side  to  the  rope,  until  it  becomes 
thoroughly  dry  and  soft.  This  last  process 
makes  it  very  pliable,  requires  a  good  deal  of 
time  and  strength,  and  renders  the  robe  ready 
for  market.  Before  the  Indians  came  in  con- 
tact with  civilization,  they  used  sharpened  pieces 
of  bone,  instead  of  the  pieces  of  iron  we  have 
named,  and  in  place  of  the  preparation  of  lard, 
soap  and  salt,  they  used  buffalo  brains,  which  are 
considered  altogether  preferable  to  this  mixture ; 
the  brains  of  cattle  are  also  used  when  they  can 
be  obtained^  but  the  robes  are  taken  out  on  the 
plains,  or  in. the  Platte  and  Republican  Valleys, 
and  brought  here  by  wagon  or  rail,  and  of  course 
the  brains  cannot  very  well  be  brought  with 
them.  The  squaws  laughed  when  we  pulled  out 
our  note-book  and  began  to  write,  being  evidently 
as  much  astonished  and  interested  as  we ;  they 
looked  with  wonder  at  the  book,  pencil,  and  the 
words  we  wrote.  While  the  lazy  "  Bucks,"  sit  in 
their  tents  and  gamble,  the  squaws  are  laboring 
hard  to  secure  means  for  their  support.  An 
Indian  is  constitutionally  opposed  to  labor.  He 
is  evidently  tired  all  the  time. 

Duncan — So  called  from  a  former  conduc- 
tor of  the  Union  Pacific — is  99.3  miles  from 


Omaha,  with  an  elevation  of  1,470  feet.  The 
Loup  Valley  is  just  over  the  hills  to  your  right, 
and  the  magnificent  Platte  bottom  lands  are  still 
stretching  out  before  you.  It  has  one  or  two 
stores  and  bears  a  thrifty  appearance;  at  one 
time  it  was  supposed  that  this  place  or  Columbus 
would  be  made  the  end  of  a  division,  but  nothing 
has  been  developed  on  this  subject  within  the 
past  few  years. 

Silver  Creelz — 109.4  miles  from  Omaha,  and 
1,534  feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  the  first  station 
in  Merrick  County,  as  Duncan  was  the  last  in 
Platte  County.  North  of  this  station  is  the 
Pawnee  reservation,  one  of  the  finest  bodies  of 
land  yet  unoccupied  in  the  State.  This  once 
powerful  tribe,  between  whom  and  the  Sioux  a 
deadly  hostility  exists,  has  dwindled  down  to 
small  numbers,  and  during  1875,  they  abandoned 
their  reservation  entirely  and  went  to  the  Indian 
Territory.  An  attempt  was  made  a  short  time 
since  to  sell  a  part  of  this  reservation  at  an  ap- 
praised valuation,  but  it  was  not  successful,  and 
efforts  are  now  being  made  to  bring  it  into 
market  under  the  preemption  laws  of  the  govern- 
ment at  a  fixed  price,  (f  2.50  per  acre)  the  pro- 
ceeds of  which  are  to  go  to  the  tribe  on  their 
new  reservation.  When  this  takes  place  Silver 
Creek  will  have  a  great  impetus  to  its  growth 
and  trade,  as  it  is  the  nearest  railroad  station  to 
this  reservation. 

Clark. — Named  after  S.  H.  H.  Clark,  gene- 
ral superintendent  of  the  Union  Pacific;  it  is 
sometimes  called  Clark's,  Clarksville  and  Clark's 
Station.  It  is  120.7  miles  from  the  eastern 
terminus  of  the  road,  with  an  elevation  of  1,610 
feet.  It  has  three  stores,  school-house,  church, 
shops  and  dwellings,  and  is  doing  a  fine  trade ; 
with  a  rich  country  around  it,  and  the  Pawnee 
reservation  soon  to  be  opened  on  the  north,  it  is 
destined  to  become  a  thrifty  town. 

Central  City. — The  county-seat  of  Merrick 
County  ;  has  two  or  three  churches,  several  stores, 
a  brick  court-house,  school-house,  hotels  and  nu- 
merous other  buildings.  Here  is  a  bridge  across 
the  Platte.  Population  650.  The  Burlington 
and  Missouri  River  Railroad  forms  a  junc- 
tion with  the  Union  Pacific,  here.  Local  dis- 
sensions have  injured  the  town  in  the  past,  and 
must  operate  to  retard  its  growth  in  the  future. 
About  three  miles  west  of  this  place  a  new  side 
track  has  been  put  in.  It  is  yet  unnamed,  though 
it  will  probably  be  called  Lone  Tree,  and  it  is  ex- 
pected that  a  post-office  with  the  same  name  will 
be  established  Merrick  County  has  two  flouring- 
mills,  both  of  which  are  run  by  water,  taken 
from  the  Platte  River.  The  identical  "lone  tree," 
from  which  the  place  was  named,  has  long  since 
disappeared,  but  numerous  groves  of  cotton-wood 
are  everywhere  visible.  For  40  miles  here  the 
railroad  track  is  perfectly  straight. 

Chapman. — 142.3  miles  from  Omaha,  and 
1,760  feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  named  after  a 


30 


former  road-master  of  the  Union  Pacific.  The 
town  has  two  stores,  school-house,  and  other 
buildings,  and  is  in  the  midst  of  a  fine,  thickly 
settled  country. 

Liockwood — is  147.8  miles  from  Omaha,  with 
an  elevation  of  1,800  feet.  It  is  a  side  track 
where  trains  meet  and  pass.  A  store  has  re- 
cently been  opened  where  a  lively  trade  is  done. 

Grand  Island. — The  end  of  the  first  divi- 
sion of  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad,  153.8  miles 
from  Omaha,  and  1,850  feet  above  the  sea.  The 
town  is  named  after  an  island  in  the  Platte  River, 
which  is  some  forty  miles  long,  and  from  one  to 
three  miles  in  width.  It  was  first  settled  by  a 
colony  of  Germans  from  Davenport,  la.,  in  1857. 
The  island  is  thickly  settled,  nearly  every  quar- 
ter section  being  occupied  by  a  thrifty  farmer. 
The  soil  is  wonderfully  prolific,  being  composed 
of  a  black  vegetable  mold,  and  is  especially 
adapted  to  corn  raising.  The  old  town  site  of 
Grand  Island  was  south  of  the  present  site,  on 
the  old  emigrant  road.  The  first  three  years  of 
this  town  were  very  severe  on  the  settlers.  They 
had  to  haul  all  their  supplies  from  Omaha,  and 
part  of  this  time  they  were  obliged  to  live  on 
short  rations.  They  immediately  began  the  cul- 
tivation of  the  soil,  but  at  first  had  no  market 
for  their  crops.  This  was  soon  remedied,  how- 
ever, by  the  opening  of  a  market  at  Fort  Kearny, 
some  forty  miles  west,  where  they  obtained  good 
prices  for  everything  they  could  raise.  In  a 
short  time,  the  rush  to  Pike's  Peak  began,  and 
as  this  was  the  last  place  on  the  route  where  emi- 
grants could  obtain  grain  and  other  supplies,  the 
town  grew,  and  many  who  are  now  in  good  cir- 
cumstances, then  laid  the  foundations  of  their 
prosperity.  In  this  vicinity  stray  buffaloes  first 
appeared  to  the  early  settlers  of  the  valley.  They 
never  came  in  large  herds,  but  when  hunted  by 
the  Indians  further  west  and  south  in  the  Repub- 
lican Valley  they  would  be  seen  wandering  near 
this  place.  While  the  war  was  in  progress,  the 
settlers  frequently  saw  war  parties  of  the  Sioux 
pass  to  and  from  the  Pawnee  camp  on  the  high 
bluffs  south  of  the  Platte  River,  and  opposite 
Fremont.  When  they  returned  from  their  at- 
tacks, they  would  exhibit  the  scalps  they  had 
taken,  and  manifest  great  glee  as  they  swung 
them  through  the  air,  dangling  from  their 
spears.  In  the  early  spring  of  1859.  the  stages 
from  Omaha  began  to  run.  At  first  they  came 
once  a  week,  then  twice,  and  later,  daily.  Then 
the  telegraph  line  was  put  up.  Meanwhile  the 
trans-continental  railroad  was  agitated,  and  as  it 
became  more  and  more  talked  about,  the  settlers 
here  fondly  hoped  that  they  were  on  the  exact 
spot  where  the  three  converging  lines,  as  first 
proposed,  would  meet.  But  they  were  doomed 
to  disappointment.  The  Union  Pacific,  Eastern 
Division,  now  the  Kansas  Pacific,  grew  into  an 
independent  line,  while  the  Sioux  City  &  Pacific 
had  its  course  changed,  finally  uniting  with  the 


Union  Pacific  at  Fremont.  But  the  railroad 
came  at  last  in  1866.  The  heavy  bodies  of  tim- 
ber on  the  islands  in  the  river  and  between  the 
Platte  and  Wood  Rivers  were  nearly  all  taken  for 
cross-ties.  It  was  only  cotton-wood,  but  it  would 
hold  the  spikes  and  rails  for  a  few  years  until 
others  could  be  obtained.  Then  the  buildings 
on  the  old  town  site  were  moved  up  to  the  rail- 
road and  the  town  began  to  grow.  The  round- 
house for  the  steam-horses  was  built,  and  the 
town  was  made  the  end  of  a  division  of  the  road. 
An  eating-house  was  erected,  and  stores,  shops, 
and  dwellings  followed  in  quick  succession.  It 
is  the  county-seat  of  Hall  County,  and  the  first 
station  in  the  county  from  the  east.  It  has  a 
fine  large  brick  court-house,  three  church  edi- 
fices, school-house,  hotels,  bank,  and  one  of  the 
largest  steam  floivring-mills  in  the  State.  This 
is  one  of  the  regular  dining-stations  on  the  road. 
In  1875  the  company  put  up  an  elegant  hotel 
for  the  accommodation  of  the  traveling  public, 
at  Avhich  all  passenger  trains  stop  for  meals. 
It  is  exceedingly  -well  kept,  and  under  its  pres' 
ent  management  will  command  the  patronage 
of  the  public.  Like  all  other  towns  of  any 
importance  in  this  valley,  Grand  Island  hopes 
and  expects  more  railroads.  The  St.  Joseph 
and  Western  Division  of  the  Union  Pacific 
runs  to  St.  Joseph,  and  the  St.  Paul  Branch  of 
the  Union  Pacific  runs  northward  to  St.  Paul, 
Neb. ,  22  miles.  A  line  is  also  projected  to  the 
northwest,  and  one  to  the  northeast  to  reach 
Sioux  City.  Its  present  population  is  aboutS,  000, 
and  its  prospects  for  the  future  are  flattering. 

The  country  in  this  immediate  vidnity  is  well 
settled  by  a  thrifty  class  of  German  farmers,  who 
have  dug  wealth  from  the  soil,  and  when  rations 
were  scarce  and  border  scares  frequent,  still  hung 
on  to  their  claims.  The  road  came  in  1856,  and 
gave  them  communication  with  the  outer  world. 
The  location  of  the  roundhouse  and  necessary 
repair  shops,  for  the  division,  is  a  great  help  to 
the  town,  as  they  give  employment  to  quite  a 
number  of  skilled  mechanics.  It  is  also  the  lo- 
cation of  the-  government  land  office  for  the 
Grand  Island  land  district.  It  has  two  weekly 
newspapers,  the  Times  and  Independent,  both  of 
which  are  well  conducted.  The  new  eating- 
house,  elsewhere  spoken  of,  is  the  finest  on  the 
road,  though  less  expensive  than  many.  It  cost 
about  $15,000.  This  is  a  breakfast  and  supper 
station,  and  the  company  has  furnished  ample 
accommodations  for  the  patrons  of  this  house. 

After  leaving  Grand  Island,  a  magnificent 
stretch  of  prairie  country  opens  to  view.  The 
same  may  be  said  of  the  entire  valley,  but  the 
view  in  other  places  is  more  limited  by  bluffs 
and  hills  than  here.  After  passing  Silver  Creek. 
there  is  a  section  of  the  road,  move  than  forty 
miles,  in  a  straight  line,  but  the  extent  of  prairie 
brought  into  vision  there  is  not  as  large  as  here. 
Up  to  this  point,  you  have  doubtless  witnessed 


31 


many  groves  of  cotton-wood  around  the  numer- 
ous dwellings  you  have  passed,  but  they  begin  to 
diminish  now — nearly  the  last  of  them  being 
seen  at 

Alda, — the  next  station,  some  eight  miles 
west  of  Grand  Island,  161.5  miles  from  Omaha, 
at  an  elevation  of  1,907  feet.  There  are  one  or 
two  stores,  a  school-house,  and  several  dwellings. 
It  is  two  miles  east  of  Wood  River,  which  is 
spanned  by  a  first-class  iron  bridge.  All 
regular  passenger  trains  stop  at  this  station  and 
receive  and  deliver  mails.  In  other  parts  of  the 
country,  Wood  River  would  be  called  a  rivulet  or 
small  brook,  but  such  streams  are  frequently  dig- 
nified with  the  name  of  rivers  in  the  West.  It 
forms  a  junction  with  the  North  Channel  of  the 
Platte  River,  just  south  of  Grand  Island.  Its  rise 
is  in  the  bluffs  across  the  divide,  north  of  Plum 
Creek,  and  its  general  course  is  due  east.  The 
road  runs  along  its  southern  'bank  for  several 
miles,  and  in  several  places  it  is  fringed  with 
timber.  When  the  road  was  first  built  through 
here,  it  was  well  timbered,  but  it  was  nearly  all 
taken  for  construction  purposes  and  fuel.  In 
early  days,  say  in  1859-60,  this  valley  was  the 
frontier  settlement  of  the  West,  and  a  few  of 
the  old  pioneer  log  houses  are  still  standing, 
though  very  much  dilapidated.  The  settlers  had 
a  few  "  Indian  scares,"  and  lost  some  stock,  but 
beyond  this,  110  great  depredation  was  done.  Fort 
Kearny  was  their  first  market-place,  to  which 
they  hauled  their  surplus  grain  and  provisions. 
Though  Wood  River  is  so  small,  it  nevertheless 
supplies  three  flcuring-mills  with  power  for 
grinding,  and  there  are  several  mill  sites  unoc- 
cupied. The  first  mill  is  near  the  iron  bridge 
already  spoken  of,  and  the  others  will  be  noticed 
further  on. 

}Vootl  River — is  the  name  of  the  next  sta- 
tion. It  has  two  or  three  stores,  several  dwellings, 
and  a  new  depot  building.  It  is  169.6  miles  from 
Omaha,  and  1,974  feet  above  the  sea.  The  old 
station  was  two  miles  further  west,  and  the  Cath- 
olic church  still  remains  to  mark  the  place  where 
it  stood.  The  country  around  here  was  first 
settled  by  some  Irish  families;  they  are  indus- 
trious and  worthy  citizens,  and  have  developed 
some  fine  farms.  Prairie,  or  blue  joint-grass  has 
been  principally  seen  thus  far,  but  now  you  will 
observe  patches  of  buffalo  grass  which  increase 
as  you  go  west,  and  of  which  we  shall  speak 
hereafter.  This  is  the  last  station  in  Hall 
County. 

Shelton — comes  next — a  side  track,  depot,  a 
few  dwellings,  and  another  of  those  flouring- 
mills  spoken  of.  In  January,  1876,  the  water  in 
Wood  River  was  sufficient  to  keep  three  run  of 
burrs  going  in  this  mill  for  about  twenty  out  of 
every  twenty-four  hours.  The  flour  made  at 
nearly  all  the  mills  on  the  Union  Pacific  finds  a 
veady  market  in  the  mountain  towns  west,  to 
vhich  it  is  usually  shipped.  Shelton  was  named 


after  a  former  cashier  of  the  Union  Pacific 
road  at  Omaha.  It  has  an  elevation  of  2,010 
feet,  and  is  177.4  miles  from  the  eastern  terminus 
of  the  road. 

Successful  Farminff. —  The  little  farms 
•which  now  fill  up  the  Platte  Valley  as  far  as 
North  Platte  are  occupied  by  people  who  came 
from  the  older  States,  with  very  little  cash  capi- 
tal, and  by  homesteading  or  warrant  or  purchase 
from  the  railroad  on  time,  they  have  made  many  *• 
a  snug  home.  To  show  what  has  been  done  by 
real  industry,  we  quote  from  actual  records  the 
figures  of  the  success  of  a  farmer  in  Platte  County. 
Beginning  with  the  year  1867,  and  up  to  the  year 
1874,  seven  years,  he  cultivated  in  wheat  and 
corn,  an  average  of  sixty  to  eighty  acres  wheat, 
and  fifty  acres  corn ;  total  130  acres.  His  re- 
ceipts from  these  two  crops  only,  in  seven  years, 
was  $13,314.05;  expenses,  $4,959.92;  profits, 
$8,354.13,  besides  increase  of  value  of  land,  which 
is  fully  $2,000  more.  This  is  what  was  done 
with  a  capital  of  less  than  $2,000. 

Tree  Planting  in  Nebraska. — The  Ne- 
braskans  celebrate  a  special  day  in  the  spring- 
months  as  a  holiday,  in  which  the  entire  popula- 
tion join  hands  in  a  hearty  exercise  at  tree  plant- 
ing; this  is  called  Arbor  Day.  Travelers  will 
notice  from  the  car  windows  on  their  first  day's 
ride  westward  from  Omaha,  quite  a  number  of 
pretty  groves  of  trees,  planted  both  as  wind- 
breaks for  their  farms,  and  also  for  timber  plant- 
ations. The  tree  most  popular  is  the  cotton- 
wood,  which  grows  very  easily,  sure  to  start,  anfl  is 
quite  luxuriant  in  foliage  ;  however  it  is  valuable 
for  shelter  and  stove-wood  only,  not  for  manu- 
factures. As  an  instance  of  rapidity  of  growth, 
there  are  trees  in  the  Platte  Valley,  which  planted 
as  cuttings,  have  in  thirteen  years  measured  22 
inches  in  diameter.  Little  boys  are  tempted  by 
large  premiums  from  their  parents  to  test  their 
capacity  at  tree  planting  on  Arbor  Day,  and  as- 
tonishing rapidity  has  occasionally  been  known, 
one  farmer  in  one  day  having  planted  from  sun- 
rise to  sundown,  14,000  trees,  and  in  the  course 
of  one  spring  season,  over  200,000.  Settlers,  as 
fast  as  they  arrive,  aim  to  accomplish  two  things. 
First,  to  break  the  sod  for  a  corn  field ;  next,  to 
plant  timber  shelter.  The  winds  which  blow 
from  the  west  are  very  constant,  often  fierce,  and 
a  shelter  is  of  immense  value  to  stock  and  fruit 
trees.  Hedges  of  white  willow,  several  miles  in 
length,  have  been  laid,  which  at  five  years  from 
cuttings,  have  made  a  perfect  fence  15  feet  high; 
one  farm  alone  has  four  miles  of  such  continu- 
ous fence,  which  at  four  years  of  age  was  a  com- 
plete protection.  The  rapidity  of  growth  in  the 
rich  alluvial  soil  of  the  Platte  Valley  reminds 
one  of  tropical  luxuriance.  A  grove  of  white 
ash,  in  twelve  years,  has  grown  to  an  average  of 
26  inches  in  circumference,  and  30  feet  high 
Walnut  trees,  in  eight  years,  have  measured  22 
inches  in  circumference,  and  25  feet  high.  Ma- 


EMINENT  AMERICAN  EXPLORERS  AND  ARTISTS. 

1.— Gen.  Ouster.    2.— Qen.  Fremont.    3.— Lieut.  Wheeler.    4.— Prof.  F.  V.  Hayden.    5.—  \ibert  RlmhuU 
6.-Maj.  J.  W.  Powell.    7.-Thoma8  Moran. 


33 


pletrees,of  twelve  years,rneasure43  inches  around 
four  feet  from  the  ground.  Elms  of  fourteen 
years,  show  36  inches  in  girt,  and  a  foot  in  diam- 
eter. Honey  Locusts,  eleven  years  of  age,  are  30 
feet  high,  and  30  inches  around.  Cotton-wood 
trees,  of  thirteen  years,  have  reached  66  inches  in 
circumference,  and  22  inches  in  diameter.  White 
willow,  same  age,  45  inches  in  circumference. 
Nebraska  planted  10,000,000  trees  in  1878. 

Gibbon, — the  last  station  on  Wood  River,  is 
182.9  miles  from  the  Missouri  by  rail,  and  has  an 
elevation  of  2,046   feet.     It   was   formerly  the 
county-seat  of  Buffalo  County,  and  had  a  fine 
brick  court-house  erected.     But  the  county-seat 
was  voted  to  Kearny  Junction  in  1874,  and  the 
building  is  now  used  for  school  purposes.     It  has 
a  hotel,  several  stores,  and  another  of  those  flour- 
ing-mills,  in  plain  sight  from  the  track.      The 
Platte  River  is  some  three  miles  distant,  to  the 
south,  and  glistens  in  the  sunlight  like  a  streak 
of  silver;   the  level  prairie  between  is  studded 
with  farm-houses,  and   in  the  late   summer  or 
early  autumn  numerous  stacks  of  grain  and  hay 
are    everywhere    visible    around    the     farmers' 
homes.     The   bluffs,   south  of  the   Platte,   rear 
their  low  heads  in  the  distance,  and  your  vision 
is  lost  on  prairie,  prairie,  prairie,  as  you    look 
to  the  north.     Beautiful  as  these  prairies  are  in 
the  spring  and  early  summer,  their  blackened 
surface  in  the  fall,  if  burned,  or  their  dull  drab 
color,  if  unburned,  is  monotonous  and  wearying. 
Biidfl. — has   an   elevation   of  2,106   feet,   is 
191.3  miles  from  Omaha.     The,  town  is  named 
Kearny,    and    takes    its    name    from    General 
Kearuy,   who   was    an   officer    ui    the    regular 
army    during    the    Mexican    war.      Old    Fort 
Kearny  was   located    near  this   station,   south 
of    the    Platte   River,   and   the   military  reser- 
vation    of     government     land     still     remains, 
though     it     will    probably    soon     be    brought 
into  market.     The  rights,  if  they  have  any,  of 
"squatter  sovereigns"  will  here   be  tested,  as 
nearly  every  quarter  section  in  the  whole  reserve 
is  occupied  by  them,  some  of  whom  have  made 
valuable  improvements  in  the  shape  of  buildings, 
etc.     It  was  formerly  a  great  shipping  point  for 
cattle,  but  the  advancing  tide  of  settlements  has 
driven  stock-men,  like  the  Indians,  still  further 
west.     Occasionally,  however,  Texas   herds  are 
grazed  near  here,  and  the  herders  sometimes  visit 
Kearny  Junction,  a  few  miles  west,  and  attempt 
to  run  the  town;   they  murdered  a  man  there 
in  1875,  in  cold  blood — shot  him  dead  on  the 
threshold  of  his  own  door — and  this  so  incensed 
the  inhabitants  in  the  vicinity  that  they  will  not, 
probably,  allow  them  to  visit  the  town  in  future. 
The  murderer  was  arrested,  has  been  convicted, 
and  time  will  tell  whether  he  will  be  hung  or  not. 
Texas  herders,  as  a  class,  are  rough  fellows,  with 
long  hair  and  beard,  wide-rimmed    hats,  best 
fitting  boots  they  can  get,  large  spurs  jingling 
at  their  heels,  a  small  arsenal,  in  the  shape  of 


Colt's  revolvers,  strapped  to  their  waists  with 
a  careless  negligee  appearance.  Their  chief  pleas- 
ure is  in  a  row ;  their  chief  drink  is  "  whisky 
straight,"  and  they  usually  seem  to  feel  better 
when  they  have  killed  somebody.  Houses  of 
prostitution  and  tippling  saloons  follow  close  in 
their  wake.  They  are  generous  to  their  friends, 
dividing  even  the  last  dollar  with  a  comrade  who 
is  "  broke ;  "  cowardly,  treacherous  and  revenge- 
ful to  their  enemies.  Human  life  is  of  but  little 
account  with  them.  Their  life  is  one  of  constant 
exposure,  and  very  laborious.  They  are  perfect 
horsemen — usually  in  the  saddle  sixteen  out  of 
every  twenty-four  hours — and  their  great  ambi- 
tion seems  to  be  to  become  "a  devil  of  a  fellow," 
generally.  Nor  does  it  require  much  care  or  effort 
on  their  part,  to  fill  the  bill.  Thousands  of  them 
on  the  plains  in  their  native  State,  in  Kansas, 
Colorado,  Wyoming,  and  Nebraska  "have  died 
with  their  boots  on,"  and  we  suppose  thousands 
more  will  perish  the  same  way.  Living  violent 
lives,  of  course  they  meet  with  violent  deaths. 
They  are  a  peculiar  race,  answering,  perhaps,  a 
peculiar  purpose.  The  community  in  which 
they  live,  and  the  country  generally,  will  be  bet- 
ter off  when  they  have  passed  away,  for  almost 
ninety-nine  out  of  every  hundred  goes 

"  Down  to  the  vile  dust  from  whence  he  sprung, 
Unwept,  unhonored  and  unsung." 

Kearny  has  now  nothing  but  a  side  track, 
depot  and  water-tank,  with  a  section-house  and 
the  remains  of  an  old  corral  from  which  cattle 
used  to  be  shipped.  The  reservation  included 
not  only  land  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  but  a 
large  island  which  extends  east  and  west  quite  a 
number  of  miles.  The  fort  was  south  of  the 
river,  and  scarcely  a  vestige  now  remains  to 
mark  the  spot  where  the  buildings  formerly 
stood.  This  fort  was  built  in  1858,  by  Colonel 
Charles  May,  of  Mexican  war  fame.  Three 
miles  west  of  the  old  fort  was  Kearny  City, 
which  was  a  considerable  town  in  the  old  over- 
land times,  but  it  disappeared  with  the  advent  of 
the  railroad.  The  southern  part  of  the  reserva- 
tion is  covered  with  sand-hills,  and  useless,  ex- 
cept for  grazing.  Notice  how  the  buffalo  grass 
appears  and  how  its  extent  is  increased  as  you  go 
further  west.  The  new  houses  around  the  sta- 
tion, especially  those  of  the  squatters  on  the  reser- 
vation, are  increasing,  which  indicates  that  the 
country  is  fast  settling  up. 

Kearny  Junction. — A  lively,  enterprising 
town,  195.3  miles  from  Omaha,  with  an  elevation 
of  2,150  feet.  It  is  the  junction  of  the  Burling- 
ton and  Missouri  Railroad  only,  and  owes  its 
rapid  development  to  this  fact  more  than  to  any- 
thing else.  Formerly  the  St.  Joe  and  Denver 
Railroad  ran  trains  to  this  place,  using  the  track 
of  the  Burlington  and  Missouri  from  Hastings, 
a  smart  little  town  twenty-four  miles  south  of 
Grand  Island.  But  this  was  abandoned,  and 
the  road  has  been  built  to  Grand  Island 


34 


as  a  branch  of  the  Union  Pacific  Bailroad. 
Kearney  Junction  was  laid  out  by  the  town 
company  in  September,  1872,  about  the  same 
time  the  Burlington  and  Missouri  Railroad 
arrived.  The  first  house  was  built  in  August, 
1872,  and  the  town  has  grown  very  rapidly 
ever  since;  it  now  has  a  population  of  2,000 
souls,  six  church  edifices,  one  daily  news- 
paper— the  Press;  one  weekly — The  Times; 
two  brick  bank  buildings,  and  other  brick 
blocks,  with  hotels,  numerous  stores,  school- 
house,  court-house,  etc.  It  has  a  daily  stage 
line  to  Bloomington,  a  thriving  town  some 
sixty  miles  south,  in  the  Republican  Val- 
ley, and  quite  an  extensive  trade  from  it 
and  the  South  Loup  Valley  on  the  north ; 
some  of  the  stores  here  do  quite  a  wholesale 
trade.  The  town  is  finely  located  on  a  gradual 
slope,  and  from  the  hills  or  bluffs  on  its  north 
side  the  land  in  seven  counties  can  be  distinctly 
seen ;  it  has  the  vim  and  energy  which  usually 
characterizes  Western  towns;  it  is  an  aspirant 
for  the  capital  if  it  is  ever  moved  from  Lincoln, 
and  has  ground  on  the  hill  reserved  for  the  loca- 
tion of  the  State  buildings ;  it  also  expects  a 
railroad  from  Sioux  City,  and  one  from  the  Re- 
publican Valley ;  altogether  its  future  prospects 
are  bright.  Splendid  crops  of  wheat,  corn,  oats, 
barley,  broom-corn,  potatoes,  cabbages,  and 
onions  are  raised  in  this  vicinity  during  favorable 
seasons,  but  we  regard  the  stock  business  as  the 
best  paying  and  surest  investment  for  settlers; 
the  buffalo  grass,  to  our  mind,  is  a  sure  indica- 
tion of  it.  Kearny  Junction  is  very  healthy, 
and  invalids  would  here  find  an  agreeable  resting- 
place. 

Stevenson — has  an  elevation  of  2,170  feet, 
and  is  201.2  miles  from  the  Missouri  River.  It 
is  simply  a  side  track  with  a  section-house  near 
by.  The  way  settlers  have  pushed  up  this  valley 
during  the  last  five  years,  is  marvelous. 

Elm  Creek — is  211.5  miles  from  Omaha, 
with  an  elevation  of  2,241  feet.  In  the  first  200 
miles  of  your  journey,  you  have  attained  an  alti- 
tude more  than  a  thousand  feet  above  Omaha, 
where  you  started,  and  yet  the  ascent  has  been  so 
gradual  that  you  have  scarcely  noticed  it.  Elm 
Creek  was  so  named  after  the  creek  which  you 
cross  just  after  leaving  the  station  going  west. 
It  was  formerly  heavily  timbered  with  elm,  ash, 
backberry  and  a  few  walnuts  and  cotton-woods ; 
but  the  necessities  of  the  road  when  it  was  built 
required  it  all  and  more  too.  The  town  has  one 
or  two  saloons,  stores,  school-house  and  a  few 
dwellings.  The  creek  rises  in  the  bluffs  north- 
west, and  sluggishly  worries  through  them  and 
the  sand,  till  it  is  finally  swallowed  up  by  the 
Platte.  But  little  timber  remains  in  this  vicinity. 
1  The  next  station,  some  nine  miles  west  of  Elm 
Creek,  called 

Overton — has  the  usual  side  track,  school- 
house,  a  store  and  some  few  dwellings.  This 


valley,  to  this  point  and  beyond,  would  have  been 
thickly  settled  long  before  this  but  for  climatii; 
reasons  which  we  need  not  name.  The  Platte 
Valley  extends  on  either  side  here  nearly  as  far 
as  the  eye  can  reach.  The  town  is  220.5  miles 
from  Omaha,  at  an  elevation  of  2,305  feet. 

Josselyn, — A  side  track ;  will  eventually  be- 
come a  station ;  named  after  the  pay-master  of 
the  Union  Pacific  Road.  It  is  225.1  miles  from 
Omaha,  with  an  elevation  of  about  2,330  feet 
above  the  sea. 

Plum  Creek. — So  named  from  a  creek  on 
the  south  side  of  the  river,  which  flows  into  the 
Platte  nearly  opposite  the  town.  The  stage- 
station,  on  the  old  overland  road  was  located 
on  this  creek  and  in  those  days  it  was  considered 
quite  an  important  point  It  was  the  scene  of  i», 
number  of  conflicts  with  the  savages — in  fact  ore 
of  their  favorite  points  of  attack;  eleven  white 
persons  were  killed  and  several  wounded  during 
one  of  these  attacks.  Four  miles  west  of  the 
present  town-site  they  captured  and  burned  a 
train  of  cars  in  1867 ;  one  of  the  train  men  was 
scalped  and  recently  was  still  living  in  or  near 
Omaha ;  one  was  killed,  and  the  others,  we  be- 
lieve, made  their  escape.  The  nature  of  the 
bluffs  here  is  such  that  they  had  a  good  oppor- 
tunity to  attack  and  escape  before  the  settlers 
and  emigrants  could  rally  and  give  them  battle. 
The  creek  rises  in  a  very  bluffy  region,  and  runs 
north-east  into  the  Platte.  Plum  Creek  is 
the  county-seat  of  Dawson  Coiinty ;  has  about 
500  inhabitants  ;  a  fine  brick  court-house  with 
jail  underneath,  one  church  edifice,  school-house, 
two  or  three  hotels,  stores,  warehouses,  etc.  It  is 
a  point  where  considerable  broom-corn  is  pur- 
chased and  shipped  ;  has  a  semi-weekly  stage  line 
across  the  Republican  Valley  to  Norton,  in  the 
State  of  Kansas,  and  a  weekly  newspaper.  There 
is  a  substantial  wagon  bridge  across  the  Platte 
River,  nearly  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  length. 
It  is  located  in  the  midst  of  a  very  fine  grazing 
country,  though  in  favorable  seasons  crops  ha\  e 
done  well.  With  irrigation,  perhaps  they  might 
be  made  a  certainty.  This  town  also  enjoys 
quite  a  trade  with  the  upper  Republican  Valley. 
It  was  formerly  a  favorite  range  for  buffaloes, 
and  large  quantities  of  their  bleaching  bones 
have  been  gathered  and  shipped  by  rail  to  St. 
Louis  and  places  east.  It  is  231.4  miles  from 
Omaha,  with  an  elevation  of  2,370  feet. 

Rattle  with  the  Indians  at  1'Juin 
Creek. — While  the  railroad  was  being  built, 
the  engineers,  graders  and  track-layers  were  fre- 
quently driven  from  their  work  by  the  Indians. 
Not  only  then,  but  after  the  track  was  laid  and 
trains  running,  it  was  some  times  torn  up  and 
trains  ditched,  causing  loss  of  lives  and  destruc- 
tion of  property.  One  of  these  attacks  took 
place  near  Plum  Creek,  as  we  will  now  relate. 
In  July,  1867,  a  train  was  ditched  about  four 
miles  west  of  the  above-named  station.  It 


35 


was  by  a  band  of  southern  Cheyennes,  under  a 
ohief  called  Turkey  Leg,  who  now  draws  his 
rations  regularly  from  Uncle  Sam,  at  the  Red 
Cloud  agency.  He  is  a  vicious  looking  fellow, 
his  appearance  naturally  suggesting  him  as  a  fit 
subject  for  a  hanging  bee.  At  a  small  bridge, 
or  culvert,  over  a  dry  ravine,  they  had  lifted  the 
iron  rails  from  their  chairs  on  the  ties — raising 
only  one  end  of  each  rail — about  three  feet,  pil- 
ing up  ties  under  them  for  support,  and  firmly 
lashing  the  rails  and  ties  together  by  wire  cut 
from  the  adjoining  telegraph  line.  They  were 
pretty  cunning  in  this  arrangement  of  the  rails, 
and  evidently  placed  them  where  they  thought 
they  would  penetrate  the  cylinder  on  each  side 
of  the  engine.  But  not  having  a  mechanical 
turn  of  mind  exactly,  and  disregarding  the  slight 
curve  in  the  road  at  this  point,  they  missed  their 
calculations,  as  the  sequel  shows,  as  one  of  the 
rails  did  no  execution  whatever,  and  the  other 
went  straight  into  and  through  the  boiler.  After 
they  had  fixed  the  rails  in  the  manner  described, 
they  retired  to  where  the  bench  or  second  bottom 
slopes  down  to  the  first,  and  there  concealed 
themselves  in  the  tall  grass,  waiting  for  the  train. 
Before  it  left  Plurn  Creek,  a  hand-car  with  three 
section  men  was  sent  ahead  as  a  pilot.  This  car 
encountered  the  obstacle,  and  ran  into  the  ravine, 
bruising  and  stunning  the  men  and  frightening 
them  so  that  they  were  unable  to  signal  to  the 
approaching  train.  As  soon  as  the  car  landed  at 
the  bottom  of  the  ravine,  the  Indians  rushed  up, 
when  two  of  the  men,  least  hurt,  ran  away  in  the 
darkness  of  the  night — it  was  little  past  mid- 
night— and  hid  in  the  tall  grass  near  by.  The 
other,  more  stunned  by  the  fall  of  the  car,  was 
scalped  by  the  savages,  and  as  the  knife  of  the 
savage  passed  under  his  scalp,  he  seemed  to 
realize  his  condition  partly,  and  in  his  delirium 
wildly  threw  his  arms  out  and  snatched  the  scalp 
from  the  Indian,  who  had  just  lifted  it  from  his 
skull.  With  this  he,  too,  got  away  in  the  dark- 
ness, and  is  now  an  employe  of  the  company  at 
Omaha. 

But  the  fated  train  came  on  without  any 
knowledge  of  what  had  transpired  in  front.  As 
the  engine  approached  the  ravine,  the  head-light 
gleaming  out  in  the  darkness  in  the  dim  dis- 
tance, fast  growing  less  and  less,  the  engineer, 
Brooks  Bowers  by  name,  but  familiarly  called 
"  Bully  Brooks  "  by  the  railroad  men,  saw  that 
the  rails  were  displaced,  whistled  "down 
brakes,"  and  reversed  his  engine,  but  all  too  late 
to  stop  the  train.  The  door  of  the  fire-box  was 
open,  and  the  fireman  was  in  the  act  of  adding 
fuel  to  the  flames  within,  when  the  crash  came. 
That  fireman  was  named  Hendershot,  and  the 
boys  used  to  speak  of  him  as  "  the  drummer  boy 
of  the  Rappahannock,"  as  he  bore  the  same 
name,  and  might  have  been  the  same  person 
whose  heroic  deeds,  in  connection  with  Burn- 
side's  attack  on  Fredericksburg,  are  now  matters 


of  history.  He  was  thrown  against  the  fire-box 
when  the  ravine  was  reached,  and  literally 
roasted  alive,  nothing  but  a  few  of  his  bones  be- 
ing afterwards  found.  The  engineer  was  thrown 
over  the  lever  he  was  holding  in  his  hands, 
through  the  window  of  his  cab,  some  twenty  feet 
or  more.  In  his  flight  the  lever  caught  and  rip- 
ped open  his  abdomen,  and  when  found  he  was 
sitting  on  the  ground  holding  his  protruding 
bowels  in  his  hands.  Next  to  the  engine  were 
two  flat  cars  loaded  with  brick.  These  were 
landed,  brick  and  all,  some  thirty  or  forty  feet 
in  front  of  the  engine,  while  the  box  cars,  loaded 
with  freight,  were  thrown  upon  the  engine  and 
around  the  wreck  in  great  disorder.  After  a 
time  these  took  fire,  and  added  horror  to  the 
scene.  The  savages  now  swarmed  around  the 
train  and  whooped  and  yelled  in  great  glee. 
When  the  shock  first  came,  however,  the  con- 
ductor ran  ahead  on  the  north  side  of  the  track 
to  the  engine,  and  there  saw  Bowers  and  Hender- 
shot in  the  position  we  have  described  them. 
He  told  them  he  must  leave  them  and  flag  the 
second  section  of  the  train  following  after,  or  it, 
too,  would  be  wrecked.  He  then  ran  back,  sig- 
naled this  train,  and  with  it  returned  to  Plum 
Creek.  Arriving  there  in  the  middle  of  the 
night,  in  vain  did  he  try  to  get  a  force  of  men  to 
proceed  at  once  to  the  scene  of  the  disaster.  No 
one  would  go.  In  the  morning,  however,  they 
rallied,  armed  themselves  and  went  out  to  the 
wreck.  By  this  time  it  was  near  ten  o'clock.  The 
burning  box  cars  had  fallen  around  the  brave 
engineer,  and  while  the  fiery  brands  had  un- 
doubtedly added  to  his  agony,  they  had  also 
ended  his  earthly  existence.  His  blackened  and 
charred  remains  only  told  of  his  suffering.  The 
rescuing  party  found  the  train  still  burning — the 
Indians  had  obtained  all  the  plunder  they  could 
carry,  and  left  in  the  early  morning.  In  the  first 
gray  dawn  of  the  morning  they  manifested  their 
delight  over  the  burning  train  in  every  possible 
way,  and  their  savage  glee  knew  no  bounds. 
From  the  cars  not  then  burned  they  rolled  out 
boxes  and  bales  of  merchandise,  from  which  they 
took  bright-colored  flannels,  calicos,  and  other 
fancy  goods.  Bolts  of  these  goods  they  would 
loosen,  and  with  one  end  tied  to  their  ponies'  tails 
or  the  horn  of  their  saddles,  they  would  mount 
and  start  at  full  gallop  up  and  down  the  prairie 
just  to  see  the  bright  colors  streaming  in  the 
wind  behind  them.  But  the  end  of  this  affair 
was  not  yet.  The  avenging  hand  of  justice  was 
on  the  track  of  these  blood-thirsty  villains,  who, 
for  some  inscrutable  reason,  are  permitted  to 
wear  the  human  form.  In  the  spring  of  that 
year,  by  order  of  General  Augur,  then  in  com- 
mand of  the  military  department  of  the  Platte, 
Major  Frank  North,  of  Columbus,  Neb.,  who 
had  had  no  little  experience  in  the  business,  was 
authorized  to  raise  a  battalion  of  two  hundred 
Pawnee  Indians,  who  were  peaceable  and  friendly 


towards  the   whites,   and  whose  reservation   is 
near  Columbus,  for  scouting  duty.     It  was  the 
old  experiment  of  fighting  the  devil  with  fire  to 
be  tried  over  again.     These  scouts  were  to  fight 
the  various  hostile  bands  of  the  Sioux,  Arrapa- 
hoes,  and  Cheyennes,  and  assist  in  guarding  the 
railroad,  and  the  railroad  builders.     At  the  time 
this  train  was  attacked,  these  scouts  were  scat- 
tered in  small  detachments  along  the  line  of  the 
road  between   Sidney  and  the  Laramie  Plains. 
General  Augur  was  immediately  notified  of  it, 
and  he  telegraphed   Major   North   to  take  the 
nearest  company  of  his  scouts  and  repair  as  soon 
as  possible  to  the  scene  of  the  disaster.     At  that 
time,  Major  North  was  about  fourteen  miles  west 
of  Sidney,  at  the  end  of  the  track,  and  his  nearest 
company  was   some    twelve    miles    further   on. 
Mounting  his  horse,  he  rode  to  their  camp  in 
about  fifty  minutes,  got  his  men  together,  and 
leaving  orders  for  the  wagons  to  follow,  returned, 
arriving  at  the  end  of  the  track  at  about  four 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon.     By  the  time  these  men 
and  horses  were  loaded  on  the  cars,  the  wagons 
had  arrived,  and  by  five  o'clock  the  train  pulled 
out.     Arriving  at  Julesburg,  they  were  attached 
to  a  passenger  train,  and  by  midnight,  or  within 
twenty-four  hours  after  the  disaster  took  place, 
he  arrived  at  the  scene.     Meanwhile  other  white 
troops,  stationed  near  by,  had  arrived.     In  the 
morning  he  was  ordered  by  General  Augiir  to 
follow  the  trail  and  ascertain  whether  the  at- 
tack had  been  made  by  northern  or  southern  In- 
dians.    With  ten  men  he  started  on  the  scout. 
The  sharp-sighted  Pawnees  soon  struck  the  trail. 
They  found  where  the  hostile  band  had  crossed 
the  river,  and  where  they  had  abandoned  some 
of  their  plunder.     They  followed   the   trail  all 
that  day,  and  found  that  it  bore  south  to  the 
Republican  Valley.     From  this  fact,  and  other 
indications  that  only  Indians  would  notice,  he 
ascertained  that  the  attacking  band  were  south- 
ern Cheyennes.     Returning  from  this  scout,  after 
about  thirty-five  miles'  travel,  he  reported  to  the 
commanding    officer    at    Omaha,   and    received 
orders  to  remain  in  the  vicinity,  and  thoroughly 
scout  the  country,  the  belief  being  generally  en- 
tertained among  the  officers  that,  if  not  followed, 
the  Indians  would  soon  return  on  another  raid. 
Subsequent  events  proved  this  belief  to  be  true, 
and  they  had  not  long  to  wait.     In  about  ten 
days,  their  camp  being  at  Plum  Creek,  one  of 
the  scouts  came   running  into   camp  from  the 
bluffs  south  of  Plum  Creek,  and  reported  that 
the  Indians  were  coming.     He  had  discovered 
them  in  the  distance,  making  their  way  in  the 
direction  of  the  old  overland  stage  station,  which 
they  soon   after  reached.     Arriving  here,  they 
unsaddled  their  horses  and  turned  them  loose  in 
an  old  sod  corral  to  feed  and  rest.     They  then 
began  preparations  to  remain   all  night.     The 
scouts,  however,  proposed  to  find  out  who  and 
what  they  were  before  the  evening  approached. 


Major   North  first  determined  to  go  with  th» 
company  himself,  but  at  the  urgent  solicitation 
of  Capt.  James  Murie,  finally  gave  him  charge 
of  the  expedition.     There  were  in  the  command, 
two   white  commissioned  officers — Lieut.   Isaac 
Davis,   besides    the    Captain  —  two    white    ser- 
geants, and  forty-eight  Pawnees.     The  company 
marched  from  their  camp  straight  south  to  the 
Platte  River,  which  they  crossed ;  then  turning 
to  the  left  followed   down  its  bank  under  tho 
bushes  to  within  about  a  mile  and  a  half  of  tho 
creek.     Here  they  were  discovered  by  the  Chey- 
ennes.     Then  there  was  mounting  in  hot  haste-~ 
the  Cheyennes   at  once  preparing  for  the  frav. 
There  were  one  hundred  and  fifty  warriors  to  b<» 
pitted  against  this  small  band  of  fifty-two,  all 
told.     But  the  Cheyennes,  up  to  this  time,  sup- 
posed they  were  to  fight  white  soldiers,  and  were 
very  confident  of  victory.     Forming  in  regular 
line,  on  they  rushed  to  the  conflict.      Captain 
Murie's  command,  as   soon  as  they  found  they 
were  discovered,  left  the  bushes   on  the  rive* 
bank  and  went  up  into  the  road,  where  they 
formed  in  line  of  battle  and  were  ordered  to 
charge.     As  the  order  was  given,  the  Pawnees 
set  up  their  war-whoop,  slapped  their  breasts 
with  their  hands  and  shouted  "  Pawnees."     The 
opposing  lines  met  on  the  banks  of  the  creek, 
through  which  the  scouts  charged  with  all  their 
s.peed.     The  Cheyennes  immediately  broke  aud- 
fled  in  great  confusion,  every  man  for  himself, 
Then   followed  the   chase,  the   killing  and  the 
scalping.     The  Indians  took  their  old  trail  for 
the  Republican  Valley,  and  put  their  horses  tc, 
their  utmost  speed  to  escape  the  deadly  fire  ol 
the  Pawnees.     Night  finally  ended  the  chase,  aiu) 
when  the  spoils  were  gathered,  it  was  found  that 
fifteen  Cheyenne  warriors  had  been  made  to  b;l* 
the  dust,  and  their  scalps  had  been  taken  as  tro 
phies  of  victory.     Two  prisoners  were  also  taken 
one  a  boy  of  about  sixteen  years  and  the  other  ^ 
squaw.     The  boy  was  a  nephew  of  Turkey  Leg, 
the  chief.     Thirty-five  horses   and  mules   were 
also  taken,  while  not  a  man  of  the  scouts  was 
hurt.     After  the  chase  had  ceased,  a  rain-stonn 
set  in,  and  tired  with  their  day's  work,  with  th& 
trophies  of  their  victory,  they  returned  to  cam^ 
It  was  about  midnight  when  they  arrived.     Ma 
jor   North  and   a  company  of   infantry,  undei 
command  of   Capt.    John    A.    Miller,    had    re 
mained  in  camp  guarding  government  and  com 
pany  property,  and  knowing  that  a  battle  had 
been  fought,  were  intensely  anxious  to  learn  tha 
result.      When  the  Pawnees  came  near,  it  was 
with   shouts  and  whoops  and  songs  of  victory 
They  exhibited  their  scalps  and  paraded   their 
prisoners  with  great  joy,  and  spent  the  whok, 
night  in  scalp-dances  and   wild  revelry.      Thin 
victory  put  an  end  to  attacks  on  railroad  trains 
by  the  Cheyennes.     The  boy  and    squaw  wero 
kept  in  the  camp  of  the  Pawnees  until  late  in 
the  season,  when  a  big  council  was  held  with  the 


37 


Brule  Sioux,  Spotted  Tail's  band,  at  North 
Platte,  to  make  a  new  treaty.  Hearing  of  this 
council,  Turkey  Leg,  chief  of  the  Cheyennes, 
sent  in  a  runner  and  offered  to  deliver  up  six 
white  captives  held  in  his  band  for  the  return 
of  the  boy  and  the  squaw.  After  the.  necessary 
preliminaries  had  been  effected,  the  runner  was 
told  to  bring  the  white  captives,  that  the  ex- 
change might  be  made.  The  boy  held  by  the 
scouts  was  understood  to  be  of  royal  lineage,  and 
was  expected  to  succeed  Turkey  Leg  in  the  chief- 
taincy of  the  tribe.  After  the  exchange  had 
taken  place,  the  old  chief  would  scarcely  allow 
the  boy  to  leave  his  sight — such  was  his  attach- 
ment to  him,  and  manifested  his  delight  in  every 
possible  way  over  his  recovei'y.  The  white  cap- 
tives were  two  sisters  by  the  name  of  Thompson, 
who  lived  south  of  the  Platte  River,  nearly  oppo- 
site Grand  Island,  and  their  twin  brothers ;  a 
Norwegian  girl  taken  on  the  Little  Blue  River, 
and  a  white  child  born  tc  one  of  these  women 
while  in  captivity.  They  were  restored  to  their 
friends  as  soon  as  possible. 

The  Next  Attack. — The  Indians  were  not 
willing  to  have  the  iron  rails  that  should  bind 
the  shores  of  the  continent  together  laid  in 
peace,  and  made  strenuous  and  persistent  efforts 
to  prevent  it.  On  the  16th  of  April,  1868,  a  "  cut 
off "  band  of  Sioux,  under  a  scalawag  chief, 
named  Two  Strikes,  attacked  and  killed  five 
section-men  near  Elm  Creek  Station,  taking  their 
scalps,  and  ran  off  a  few  head  of  stock.  They 
were  never  pursued.  On  the  same  day,  and  evi- 
dently according  to  a  pre-arranged  plan,  a  part  of 
the  same  band  attacked  the  post  at  Sidney.  They 
came  up  on  the  bluffs  north  of  the  town  and 
fired  into  it.  But  no  one  was  injured  from  their 
shooting  at  that  time.  Two  conductors,  however, 
named  Tom  Cahoon  and  William  Edmunson, 
had  gone  down  the  Lodge  Pole  Creek,  a  little  way 
to  fish.  They  were  unobserved  by  the  Indians 
when  the  firing  took  place.  Hearing  the  re- 
ports they  climbed  up  the  bank  to  see  what 
was  going  on,  and  being  seen  by  the  Indians, 
they  at  once  made  an  effort  to  cut  them 
off,  though  they  were  only  a  mile  or  so  from 
the  post.  The  savages  charged  down  upon 
them,  and  shot  Cahoon,  who  fell  forward  on 
the  ground.  The  Indians  immediately  scalped 
him  and  left  him  for  dead.  Mr.  Edmunson 
ran  towards  the  post  as  fast  as  he  could, 
nnd  drawing  a  small  Derringer  pistol,  fired 
at  his  pursuers.  Thinking  he  had  a  revolver 
and  would  be  likely  to  shoot  again  if  they  came 
too  close,  they  did  not  venture  up  as  they  had 
done,  but  allowed  him  to  escape.  He  got  away 
with  some  eight  or  nine  arrow  and  bullet  wounds 
together  and  carrying  four  arrows  sticking  in  his 
body.  He  was  taken  to  the  hospital,  and  rapidly 
recovered  from  his  wounds.  After  the  Indians 
had  gone,  tfap.  citizens  went  after  the  body  of  Mr. 
Gaboon,  svhom  they  supposed  dead,  but  to  their 


surprise  he  was  still  alive.  They  brought  him 
into  the  post,  where  he  recovered,  and  is  now 
running  on  the  road. 

Attack  at  Ogalatta. — In  September  of  the 
same  year,  the  same  band  of  Sioux  attempted  to 
destroy  a  train  between  Alkali  and  Ogalalla. 
They  fixed  the  rails  the  same  as  at  Plum  Creek. 
As  the  train  came  up  the  rails  penetrated  the 
cylinders  on  each  side  of  the  engine,  as  it  was  a 
straight  track  there ;  the  engine  going  over  into 
the  ditch,  with  the  cars  piling  up  on  top  of  it. 
The  engineer  and  one  of  the  brakemen  who  was 
on  the  engine  at  the  time,  were  thrown  through 
the  window  of  the  cab,  and  were  but  little  hurt. 
The  fireman  was  fastened  by  the  tender  against 
the  end  of  the  boiler,  and  after  the  train  had 
stopped,  there  being  no  draft,  the  flames  of  the 
fire  came  out  of  the  door  to  the  fire-box  upon 
him,  and  the  poor  fellow  was  literally  roasted 
alive.  He  was  released  after  six  hours  in  this 
terrible  position,  during  which  he  begged  the 
attendants  to  kill  him,  but  lived  only  a  few 
moments  after  his  release.  All  the  trains  at  this 
time  carried  arms,  and  the  conductor,  with  two 
or  three  passengers,  among  whom  was  Father 
Ryan,  a  Catholic  priest  of  Columbus,  Nebraska, 
seized  the  arms  and  defended  the  train — the 
Indians  meanwhile  skulking  among  the  bluffs 
near  the  track,  and  occasionally  firing  a  shot. 
Word  was  sent  to  North  Platte,  and  an  engine 
and  men  came  up,  who  cleared  the  wreck.  Mean- 
while word  was  sent  to  Major  North,  then  at 
Willow  Island,  to  take  one  company  of  his  scouts 
and  follow  the  Indians.  He  came  to  Alkali  and 
reported  to  Colonel  Mizner,  who  was  marching 
from  North  Platte  with  two  companies  of  cavalry, 
all  of  whom  started  in  pursuit.  They  went  over 
to  the  North  Platte  River,  crossed  that  stream 
and  entered  the  sand-hills,  where  the  scouts  over- 
took and  killed  two  of  the  Indians ;  the  whole 
party  going  about  thirty-five  miles  to  a  little 
lake,  where  the  main  body  of  Indians  had  just 
left  and  camped,  finding  the  smouldering  em- 
bers of  the  Indian  fires  still  alive.  That  night 
some  of  the  white  soldiers  let  their  camp  fires 
get  away  into  the  prairie,  and  an  immense  prairie 
fire  was  the  result.  This,  of  course,  alarmed  the 
Indians,  and  further  pursuit  was  abandoned, 
much  to  the  disgust  of  the  scouts.  Colonel 
Mizner  also  claimed  that  his  rations  were  run- 
ning short,  but  from  all  the  facts  we  can  learn, 
he  lacked  the  disposition  to  pursue  and  capture 
those  Indians.  At  least,  this  is  a  charitable  con- 
struction to  put  upon  his  acts. 

In  October  of  the  same  year  (1868),  the  same 
band  of  Indians  attacked  the  section-men  near 
Potter  Station,  drove  them  in  and  run  off  about 
twenty  head  of  horses  and  mules.  Major  North 
and  his  scouts  were  immediately  sent  in  pursuit. 
Leaving  camp  at  Willow  Island,  the  command 
was  soon  on  the  ground.  It  was  evidently  a 
small  raiding  party,  and  Major  North  sent  a 


Lieutenant  and  fifteen  of  his  men  after  them. 
They  struck  their  trail,  followed  them  to  the  North 
Platte  River,  which  they  crossed,  followed  and 
overhauled  them  in  the  sand-hills,  killing  two, 
recapturing  a  part  of  the  stolen  horses,  and  re- 
turned without  loss.  The  Indians  have  made 
some  efforts  to  ditch  a  few  trains  since  that  year, 
but  have  effected  no  serious  damage.  Their 
efforts  of  late  have  mostly  been  confined  to  stock 
stealing,  and  they  never  seem  so  happy  as  when 
they  have  succeeded  in  running  off  a  large  num- 
ber of  horses  and  mules.  When  the  road  was 
first  built  it  was  their  habit  to  cross  it,  going 
south  and  north,  several  times  in  each  year.  They 
roamed  with  the  buffaloes  over  the  plains  of 
Nebraska,  Colorado,  Wyoming  and  Kansas.  The 
effort  of  the  government  of  late  has  been  to 
confine  them  on  their  reservations,  and  the  rapid 
disappearance  of  the  buffaloes  from  the  regions 
named  have  given  them  no  excuse  for  hunting  in 
the  country  now  crossed  by  railroads  and  filling 
up  with  settlers. 

Coyote — is  the  next  station,  simply  a  side 
track  with  a  section-house  near  by.  But  little 
timber  is  visible  at  this  place,  though  the  bottom 
lands  begin  to  widen,  giving  an  extended  view. 
This  is  not  a  timber  country,  and  wherever  it  is 
found,  the  traveler  will  please  bear  in  mind  that 
it  is  the  exception  and  not  the  rule.  The  islands 
in  the  river  doubtless  had  some  timber,  but  the 
most  of  it  has  long  since  disappeared.  Occasion- 
ally you  may  see  a  few  scattering  trees  which 
have  been  left  by  the  prairie  fires,  and  which 
stand  in  inaccessible  places.  This  side  track  is 
239.1  miles  from  Omaha,  and  2,440  feet  above 
the  sea.  The  next  station  is 

Cozad — so  named  after  a  gentleman  from 
Cincinnati,  Ohio,  who  purchased  about  40,000 
acres  of  land  here  from  the  railroad  company ; 
laid  out  the  town;  built  quite  a  number  of 
houses ;  induced  people  to  settle  here ;  has  resold 
a  good  deal  of  his  land,  but  still  has  about  15,000 
acres  in  the  immediate  vicinity.  Along  the  rail- 
road track,  west  of  Plum  Creek,  the  traveler  will 
notice  that  the  buffalo  grass  has  been  rooted  out 
by  what  is  called  prairie  or  blue-joint  grass.  This 
last  is  an  annual  grass  and  is  killed  by  frost, 
after  which  it  resembles  dark  colored  brick — a 
reddish  brown  appearance.  It  has  but  little  nutri- 
ment after  the  frost  comes,  but  if  cut  and  cured 
in  July  or  August,  makes  an  excellent  quality  of 
hay.  The  buffalo  grass  is  just  over  the  divide  a 
little  way,  but  is  giving  way  to  that  just  named. 
Some  men  of  capital  near  Cozad,  are  interest- 
ing themselves  in  sheep  raising,  and  frequently 
from  this  place  west  you  will  see  large  herds  of 
cattle.  Cozad  is  245.1  miles  from  Omaha,  with 
an  elevation  of  2,480  feet.  It  has  two  or  three 
stores,  school-house,  hotel,  several  large  dwellings, 
and  with  favorable  seasons  for  growing  crops  in 
the  future,  will  become  quite  a  town.  The  Platte 
Valley  at  this  point  is  about  twenty  miles  wide. 


Willow  Island — is  the  next  station;  so- 
named  from  the  large  number  of  willow  bushes 
on  the  island  in  the  river  near  by.  It  is  250.1  miles 
from  the  Missouri,  and  has  an  elevation  of  2,511 
feet.  The  prairie  or  blue-joint  grass  still  con- 
tinues along  the  side  of  the  track,  and  the  bluffs  oil 
the  south  side  of  the  river  seem  more  abrupt.  They 
are  full  of  ravines  or  "  draws,"  and  these  some- 
times have  timber  in  them.  At  this  station  a  large 
quantity  of  cedar  piles  and  telegraph  poles  are 
delivered.  They  are  hauled  some  forty  miles 
from  the  canons  in  the  South  Loup  Valley. 
There  is  a  store  at  this  station  and  a  corral  near 
by  where  stock  is  kept ;  with  a  few  old  log  arid 
mud  buildings,  rapidly  going  to  decay  in  the; 
vicinity.  The  glory  of  this  place,  if  it  ever  had 
any,  has  long  since  departed,  but  it  may,  never- 
theless, yet  become  the  pride  of  stock-men,  who 
shall  count  their  lowing  herds  by  the  thousand- 

Grand  Duke  Alexis9  First  Buffalo  Hunt, 

During  the  visit  of  the  Grand  Duke  Alexis  or! 
Russia,  to  the  United  States,  the  imperial  party 
were  escorted  to  the  plains,  and  enjoyed  the  excite- 
ment of  a  buffalo  hunt,  over  the  western  prairieii. 
Connected  with  the  chase  were  some  incidents  cf 
rare  curiosity  and  pleasure.  As  the  only  repre- 
sentative of  the  great  Russian  nation,  he  has  seen 
the  novelty  of  military  life  on  the  frontier ;  shak- 
en hands  with  partially  tamed  Indian  warriors, 
and  smoked  the  pipe  of  peace  in  ancient  style. 
Among  the  company  were  Buffalo  Bill,  a  noble 
son  of  the  wild  West,  and  Generals  Sheridan 
and  Custer.  The  red  men  appeared  in  a  grand 
pow-wow  and  war-dance,  and  indulged  in  arrow 
practice  for  his  particular  benefit. 

The  party  started  from  camp  Alexis,  Willow 
Creek,  Nebraska,  in  January,  1872.  For  the  hunt 
the  Duke's  dress  consisted  of  jacket  and  trowsers 
of  heavy  gray  cloth,  trimmed  with  green,  the 
buttons  bearing  the  Imperial  Russian  coat*>f- 
arms ;  he  wore  his  boots  outside  his  trowsers,  his 
cap  was  an  Australian  turban,  with  cloth  top; 
he  carried  a  Russian  hunting  knife,  and  ;m 
American  revolver  recently  presented  to  him, 
and  bearing  the  coat-of-arms  of  the  United  States 
and  of  Russia  on  the  handle. 

General  Custer  appeared  in  his  well-known 
frontier  buckskin  hunting  costume,  and  if,  in- 
stead of  the  comical  sealskin  cap  he  wore,  he  had 
only  had  feathers  fastened  in  his  flowing  hair,  he 
would  have  passed  at  a  distance  for  a  great  In- 
dian chief. 

Buffalo  Bill,  the  famous  scout,  was  dressed  in 
a  buckskin  suit  trimmed  with  fur,  and  wore  a 
black  slouch  hat,  his  long  hair  hanging  in  ring- 
lets down  his  shoulders. 

Game  was  sighted  in  a  long  canon  with  broken 
sides  and  high  hills  on  either  side,  forming  a 
magnificent  arena. 

The  Grand  Duke  and  Custer  started  off,  and 
as  they  went  Custer  pulled  out  his  revolver,  and 


39 


said,  "  Are  you  ready,  Duke  ?  "  Alexis  drew  off 
his  glove,  grasped  his  pistol,  and  with  a  wave  of 
his  hand  replied,  "  All  ready  now,  General."  Buf- 
falo Bill  had  been  selected  to  show  the  Grand 
Duke  how  the  buffaloes  would  stand  at  bay  when 
suddenly  attacked.  A  cow  was  singled  out  to 
show  him  how  fleet  of  foot  the  females  are,  and 
the  speed  and  skill  essential  to  overtake  and  kill 
them.  As  soon  as  she  espied  them  she  started 
off  at  full  speed,  the  Duke  and  Custer  after  her. 
Finding  herself  hard  pressed,  she  ran  up  a  steep 
declivity  on  the  right  side  of  the  canon,  and  gain- 
ing a  footing  on  the  slope,  kept  along  the  narrow 
ledge,  while  the  Duke  and  Custer  followed  in  a 
line  along  the  bottom  of  the  canon.  The  chase 
was  most  exciting,  and  the  Grand  Duke,  exhib- 
iting an  enthusiasm  and  daring  which  the  most 


elevation  of  2,637  feet,  and  268.4  miles  from  the 
eastern  terminus  of  the  road.  The  island  in  the 
river,  from  which  the  station  is  named,  is  quite 
large,  and  formerly  had  considerable  timber  for 
this  country.  An  occasional  tree  may  yet  be  seen. 

Maxwell  is  277.5  miles  from  Omaha,  and 
2,695  feet  above  the  sea. 

Fort  McPherson  is  located  south  of  the 
Platte  River,  on  a  military  reservation,  and 
nearly  opposite  the  station.  There  is  a  wagon 
bridge  across  the  river  connecting  the  two  places. 
The  fort  is  about  seven  miles  from  the  station, 
and  is  located  near  some  springs  formerly  called 
"Cotton-wood  Springs."  It  bears  the  name  of 
the  gallant  general  who  fell  before  Atlanta,  in 
1864,  in  the  war  for  the  preservation  of  the 
Union.  But  few  soldiers  are  now  kept  at  this 


GRAND  DUKE  ALEXIS  KILLING  HIS  FIRST  BUFFALO. 


experienced  western  hunter  could  not  have  sur- 
passed, pressed  his  game  until  she  turned  upon 
him.  Describing  a  semi-circle  with  his  horse, 
he  dashed  to  the  other  side  of  her,  and  taking 
deliberate  aim,  dischai-ged  the  contents  of  his 
revolver  into  her  fore  shoulder,  as  quick  as  a 
flash  of  lightning.  The  buffalo  fell  dead  upon 
the  instant.  Thus,  as  he  telegraphed  to  his  fa- 
ther, the  Czar  of  Russia,  he  killed  the  first  wild 
horned  monster  that  had  met  his  eye  in  America. 
The  sport  continued  for  two  days,  and  ended 
with  a  series  of  Indian  festivities. 

Warren — is  a  side  track  260.4  miles  from 
Omaha,  and  2,570  feet  above  the  sea.  A  section- 
house  stands  near  by.  The  valley  here  narrows, 
and  the  bluffs  on  both  sides  come  near  the  river. 

Brady  Island — is  the  next  station,  with  an 


fort,  though  at  the  time  the  war  was  in  progress, 
and  afterwards  during  the  building  of  the  road, 
and  in  the  years  of  Indian  conflict  that  raged  on 
the  frontier,  it  was  a  post  of  considerable  import- 
ance. Immense  quantities  of  hay  are  annually 
cut  near  this  place,  with  which  government  and 
private  contracts  are  filled.  A  part  of  the  Sev- 
enth Iowa  Cavalry,  under  Major  O'Brien,  camped 
on  the  site  of  the  fort  in  1866,  and  afterwards 
troops  from  the  regular  army  were  stationed 
here. 

Gannett — named  after  J.  W.  Gannett,  Esq., 
of  Omaha  and  present  auditor  of  the  Union  Pacific 
Railroad — is  a  side  track  with  adjacent  section- 
house  ;  is  285.2  miles  from  Omaha,  and  2,752 
feet  above  the  sea.  All  the  stations  for  from  fifty 
to  a  hundred  miles  east  of  this,  are  located  in  an 


40 


excellent  grazing  country,  and  cattle  and  sheep 
are  coming  in  to  occupy  it. 

Five  miles  from  Gannett,  the  railroad  crosses 
the  North  Platte  River  on  a  pile  bridge.  There 
is  a  side  track  and  two  section-houses  just  east 
of  the  river,  the  side  track  for  hay  cai-s,  and  one 
of  the  section-houses  near  the  bridge  for  the 
watchman,  who  walks  its  entire  length  after  the 
passage  of  every  train.  The  bridge  is  planked 
by  the  railroad  company,  and  rented  by  Lincoln 
County,  so  that  wagons,  teams  and  stock  have 
free  passage.  After  leaving  Cozad,  the  number 
of  settlers'  cabins  and  houses  diminishes  till  you 
come  to  the  North  Platte  Valley.  South  of  the 
river  between  Fort  McPherson  and  North  Platte, 
there  are  quite  a  number  of  homesteaders,  who 
have  farmed  it  for  a  few  years,  with  indif- 
ferent success,  having  to  contend  with  drought 
and  grasshoppers.  The  soil  has  been  proven  to 
be  prolific,  but  some  plan  of  irrigation  will  have 
to  be  adopted,  before  agriculture  can  be  made  a 
paying  investment.  In  choice  locations,  how- 
ever, such  as  pieces  of  low  bottom  land  near  the 
river,  crops  of  potatoes  and  "  garden  truck  "  have 
been  successfully  raised  for  several  years. 

We  have  now  entered  upon  the  great  stock- 
growing  region  of  the  continent,  where  cattle  and 
hoi-ses  can  be  grown  and  kept  the  year  round 
without  hay,  and  where  the  buffalo  grass,  except- 
ing along  the  streams,  affords  the  rich  nutriment 
that  produces  fat,  and  renders  cattle  ready  for 
market  without  grain. 

The  North  Platte  River  will  be  crossed  again 
at  Fort  Steele.  It  has  its  source  in  northern 
Colorado,  west  of  the  Medicine  Bow  Mountains. 
The  Laramie  River,  which  you  cross  just  beyond 
Laramie  City,  and  the  Sweetwater,  which  rises 
in  the  Wind  River  Mountains  north  of  Point  of 
Rocks,  and  runs  through  the  great  South  Pass, 
are  two  of  its  principal  tributaries.  It  drains  an 
immense  region  of  country,  and  is  fed  by  innu- 
merable streams  and  springs  from  the  Black  Hills 
of  Wyoming,  the  Wind  River  Mountains,  the 
Medicine  Bow  Mountains,  the  Sweetwater  Moun- 
tains, the  Big  Horn  Mountains,  Rattlesnake  Hills 
and  other  elevations.  The  traveler  must  not  be 
confused  by  the  term  "Black  Hills."  The  Black 
Hills  of  Wyoming  are  those  which  you  cross  be- 
tween Cheyenne  and  Laramie  City,  the  summit 
of  which  you  reach  at  Sherman.  These  are  not 
the  Black  Hills  of  which  so  much  has  been  said 
of  late,  in  connection  with  the  discovery  of  gold 
and  the  Sioux  Indians.  They  are  called  the 
Black  Hills  of  Dakota,  and  the  nearest  point  to 
them  on  the  railroad  is  Sidney.  From  the  im- 
mense amount  of  water  which  runs  into  the 
North  Platte  River,  it  is  a  mystery  what  becomes 
of  it  all,  as  the  river  is  shallow  and  sluggish 
where  it  is  crossed  near  its  mouth.  Its  treach- 
erous bottom  of  ever  varying  and  shifting 
quicksands,  like  that  of  the  'South  Platte,  does 
not  make  it  a  good  fording  stream  for  wagons, 


though  the  water,  except  in  certain  seasons  of 
of  the  year,  is  the  smallest  obstacle.  Up  to  the 
spring  of  1875,  this  river  was  the  southern  bound- 
ary of  what  the  Sioux  Indians  claimed  as  their 
reservation,  and  it  was  only  by  the  payment  of  a 
special  appropriation  of  $25,000,  that  they  re- 
linquished the  right  to  hunt  as  far  south  as 
this  river.  The  principal  military  posts  on  the 
stream,  are  Forts  Fetterman,  usually  occupied  by 
but  few  troops,  and  Laramie.  The  latter  is  at 
present  the  principal  military  depot  for  both 
troops  and  supplies  off  the  line  of  the  railroad, 
in  this  part  of  the  West.  It  is  90  miles  from 
Cheyenne,  its  nearest  railroad  station,  and  the 
point  from  whence  nearly  all  the  frontier  expe- 
ditions into  northern  Wyoming,  western  Dakota, 
and  the  Big  Horn  and  Powder  River  countries, 
start.  The  Laramie  River  and  the  North  Platte 
form  a  junction  near  the  fort. 

The  South  Platte,  which  the  railroad  still  fol- 
lows for  about  eighty-five  miles,  is  similar  to  the 
North  Platte,  so  far  as  external  observations 
go.  It  rises  in  the  mountains  south  and  west  of 
Denver,  receives  a  large  number  of  tributaries ; 
the  chief  of  which  is  the  Cache  La  Poudre,  which 
forms  a  junction  with  it  at  Greeley,  and  then 
pursues  a  due  east  course  to  the  Missouri  River. 
The  junction  with  the  North  Platte  is  formed  a 
few  miles  below  the  bridge  just  spoken  of.  On 
neither  of  these  streams,  nor  on  any  of  their 
tributaries  can  agricultural  pursuits  be  carried 
on  without  irrigation,  and  not  always  with  success 
with  irrigation.  The  hand  of  the  Almighty  has 
placed  its  ineffaceable  mark  upon  all  this  vast 
region  of  country — that  it  is  His  pasture  ground 
and  adapted,  so  far  as  is  known,  to  no  other  pur- 
pose. Millions  of  buffaloes  have  ranged  over 
these  bleak  and  desolate-looking  plains  for  ages 
past,  and  from  the  short  grass  which  grows  in 
abundance  thereon,  have  derived  a  rich  suste- 
nance. They  have  gone  or  are  fast  going,  and  the 
necessities  of  the  civilization  which  follows,  calls 
for  beef  and  mutton.  These  plains  must  become 
the  great  beef -producing  region  of  the  continent. 
They  are  the  Almighty's  pasture  grounds,  and  if 
there  are  not  a  thousand  cattle  upon  a  hill,  there 
will  surely  be  "  cattle  iipon  a  thousand  hills." 
The  numerous  tributaries  to  these  two  rivers 
are  from  ten  to  fifteen  miles  apart,  with  high  roll- 
ing prairies  between — affording  abundance  of 
water  with  adjacent  pasture,  and  this  pasture  is 
the  home  of  the  richest  natural  grasses. 

Before  you  reach  the  North  Platte  River,  you 
will  see  conclusive  evidence  of  the  adaptability 
of  these  plains  to  stock-raising,  and  from  this 
time  on  to  where  the  river  is  again  crossed,  you 
will  see  numerous  herds  of  cattle  and  flocks  of 
sheep.  The  snows  of  winter  in  these  elevated 
regions  are  dry,  and  not  frequent.  Driven  by 
fierce  winds,  they  will  fill  the  hollows  and  small 
ravines,  while  the  hills  are  always  left  bare,  so 
that  cattle  and  sheep  can  always  obtain  access  to 


41 


the  ground,  and  the  buffalo  and  bunch  grasses 
with  which  it  is  covered.  While  hay  must  be 
cut  for  the  sustenance  of  sheep  during  the  few 
days  storms  may  last,  and  for  the  horses  and 
cattle  that  may  be  kept  up ;  the  vast  herds, 
whether  of  cattle  or  horses,  will  go  through  the 
most  severe  winter  that  has  ever  been  known  in 
this  region  without  hay  or  shelter,  except  that 
afforded  by  the  ravines.  The  experiment  has 
been  repeatedly  tried,  and  the  vast  herds  that 
ar>3  now  kept  in  this  region,  attest  the  success  of 
that  experiment.  In  Lincoln  County,  of  which 
the  town  of  North  Platte  is  the  county-seat, 
there  are  probably  75,000  head  of  cattle  alone. 
.Eastern  fanners  and  stock-raisers  will  see  that 
the  attempt  to  provide  hay  for  this  vast  number 
would  be  useless,  and  if  required  would  render 
the  keeping  of  so  many  in  a  single  county  un- 
profitable. The  expense  of  providing  hay  would 
in  the  first  place  be  great,  and  the  expense  of 
confining  the  cattle  and  feeding  it  out  would  be 
still  greater.  And  if  the  buffaloes  have  lived  in 
this  country  year  after  year,  during  the  flight  of 
the  centuries  without  hay,  why  may  not  cattle  and 
horses  do  likewise  ?  The  stock-grazing  region 
to  which  allusion  is  here  made,  comprises  in  fact 
ill  the  country  west  of  the  100th  meridian  of 
longitude,  to  the  base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
and  the  elevated  plateaus  or  great  parks  lying 
between  the  eastern  and  western  ranges  of  the 
same  mountains;  while  the  extent  north  and 
«outh  reaches  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  to  the 
northern  boundary  line  of  the  United  States. 
Four  great  railroad  lines  already  penetrate  this 
rast  stock  range,  and  a  decade  will  hardly  pass 
away  before  other  lines  will  follow.  A  ready 
outlet  to  the  best  stock  markets  in  the  country 
is  therefore  always  accessible  and  always  open. 
But  with  all  the  natural  advantages  of  this 
region,  not  every  one  who  may  be  captivated  with 
the  idea  of  a  stock  ranche  and  lowing  herds,  can 
make  it  a  success.  The  business  requires  capital 
and  care — just  the  same  attention  that  is  given 
to  any  other  successful  business.  Nor  can  it  be 
safely  entered  upon  under  the  impression  that  a 
fortune  can  be  made  in  a  day  or  in  a  year.  It  is 
a  business  liable  to  losses,  to  severe  winters,  un- 
favorable seasons  and  a  glutted  market.  It  does 
not  run  itself.  _  By  reason  of  a  single  hard  win- 
ter, one  man  in  the  stock  business  has  been 
known  to  lose  a  hundred  thousand  dollars,  and 
the  losses  that  same  winter  were  proportionally 
severe  upon  those  who  were  not  as  able  to  suffer 
them.  It  is  a  business  which,  if  closely  attended 
to,  promises  large  returns  upon  the  capital  in- 
vested, and  which,  at  the  same  time,  is  liable  to 
heavy  losses.  It  is  more  sure  than  mining  and 
more  profitable  than  agricultural  or  dairy-farm- 
ing. But  we  shall  have  more  to  say  of  this 
hereafter,  with  specific  illustrations  as  to  what 
can  be  done  in  both  sheep  husbandry  and  cattle 
raising.  Returning  to  the  two  rivers,  one  of 


which  we  crossed  near  their  junction — the  vast 
area  of  bottom  lands  continue  to  widen,  and  for 
a  long  distance  each  has  its  broad  valley.  Leav- 
ing the  North  Platte  here  we  shall  ascend  the 
South  Platte  to  Julesburg.  About  one  mile  west 
of  the  bridge,  we  arrive  at 

North  Platte — the  end  of  another  division 
of  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad.  It  is  291  miles 
from  Omaha,  and  2,789  feet  above  the  sea.  It 
is  a  thriving  city,  and  outside  of  Omaha  has 
the  most  extensive  machine  and  repair  shops 
on  the  line  of  the  road.  The  roundhouse  has 
twenty  stalls,  and  it,  together  with  the  machine 
and  repair  shops,  are  substantially  built  of  brick. 
In  these  shops  engines  and  cars  are  either  repaired 
or  entirely  built  over, — a  process  which  cannot 
hardly  be  called  repairing,  but  which  neverthe- 
less renders  them  as  good  as  new.  The  engine- 
room  for  the  machine-shops,  is  a  model  of 
neatness;  everything  in  and  around  it  being 
kept  in  perfect  order. 

The  town  has  about  2,000  inhabitants,  two 
wide-awake  newspapers ;  the  Republican  being 
a  weekly,  and  the  Western  Ncbraskian  being  a 
semi-weekly,  together  with  several  wholesale  and 
retail  stores  and  shops  of  various  kinds.  The 
Railroad  House  is  the  largest  and  leading  hotel. 
About  150  men  are  given  constant  employment 
in  the  shops.  There  are  also  one  or  two  com- 
panies of  troops  stationed  here,  not  to  protect 
the  railroad  from  the  savages,  for  that  necessity 
has  passed,  but  for  economy  in  keeping  and 
convenience  for  frontier  duty.  The  town  also 
has  two  or  three  church  edifices,  a  brick  court- 
house and  brick  school-house,  both  new,  and  both 
presenting  a  fine  appearance.  There  are  also 
several  elegant  private  residences.  It  is  beauti- 
fully located,  and  has  excellent  drainage.  The 
bluffs  or  hills  are  in  near  view,  both  north  and 
south,  and  give  quite  a  picturesque  appearance 
to  the  country  in  the  immediate  vicinity.  The 
Black  Hills  excitement,  in  regard  to  the  discovery 
of  gold,  has  had  some  effect  upon  the  town,  and 
a  railroad  off  to  the  north-west  is  talked.  It 
is  the  home  of  some  of  the  leading  stock-men  of 
this  section  of  country.  Near  this  city,  in  1875, 
Col.  E.  D.  Webster  and  Mrs.  A.  W.  Randall, 
wife  of  the  late  ex-postmaster-general  Randall, 
formed  a  copartnership  to  engage  in  the  dairying 
business,  and  erected  a  cheese  factory.  During 
the  year  they  manufactured  about  30  tons  of 
cheese,  which"  brought  them  a  fair  return.  Col- 
onel Webster  claims  that  the  experiment  has 
demonstrated  that  the  business  can  be  carried 
on  with  profit,  and  he  believes  it  will  eventually 
become  the  leading  feature  of  this  part  of  the 
country.  He  further  says  that  the  only  draw- 
back at  present  is  the  scarcity  and  unreliability 
of  help,  it  being  difficult  to  obtain  a  sufficient 
number  of  "  milkers  "  at  a  reasonable  price  to 
milk  a  large  number  of  cows.  In  1876  the  firm 
proposes  to  make  cheese  from  the  milk  of  from 


43 


one  to  two  hundred  cows,  and  the  balance  of 
their  herd — some  five  hundred — will  be  devoted 
to  stock-raising.  This  dairy  establishment  is 
one  of  the  new  enterprises  of  North  Platte,  and, 
if  successful  in  the  future,  will  make  it  the 
prominent  cheese-market  of  the  West. 

The  town  has  abundant  attractions  for  invalids 
needing  rest — there  being  antelope  and  deer  in 
the  hills,  fish  in  the  streams,  and  an  abundance 
of  pure  air  to  invigorate  the  body.  It  has  a 
bright  future  and  is  destined  to  become  one  of 
the  leading  towns  on  the  line  of  the  railroad. 
Formerly  it  was  an  eating-station,  but  as  now 
run,  trains  pass  it  in  the  night.  The  road  was 
finished  to  this  town  in  the  fall  of  1866,  from 
which  time  until  the  following  June  it  was  the 
point  where  all  overland  freight  was  shipped. 
It  was  a  rough  town  then,  but  this  state  of 
affairs  did  not  last  long,  and  the  character  of 
the  place  rapidly  improved  with  the  arrival  of 
permanent  set- 
tlers. There 
were  a  few  In- 
dian scares,  but 
no  serious  at- 
tack was  made 
by  the  savages 
upon  the  town. 
Two  or  three 
trains  were 
ditched  and 
wrecked,  both 
«ast  and  west, 
but  this  was  the 
extent  of  the 
damage  done 
l..y  them.  Of 
I. his,  however, 
we  shall  have 
more  to  say  in 
miother  place. 


CHIMNEY  ROCK,  NEAR  NORTH  PLATTE 

Chimney  RocJc.—Ne&r  North  Platte  is  the 
far-famed  Chimney  Rock,  two  and  a  half  miles 
fj-om  the  south  bank  of  the  Platte  River.  It  is 
composed  of  a  friable  yellowish  marl,  which  can 
be  cut  readily  with  the  knife.  It  rises  in  the 
form  of  a  thin,  perpendicular  shaft  above  a  coni- 
cal mound,  whose  base  slopes  gradually  out 
toward  the  plains.  It  appears  to  be  the  re- 
newal of  the  old  chain  of  hills  and  rocks  which 
bounded  the  valley,  but  which,  from  their  soft- 
ness of  material,  have  been  disintegrated  by 
wind  and  weather.  This  possessing  harder  ma- 
terial has  withstood  these  effects,  although  it  is 
steadily  yielding.  In  the  days  of  Fremont's  ex- 
pedition, it  was  estimated  that  it  was  over  200 
feet  in  height,  but  other  travelers  and  explorers 
who  had  seen  it  years  before,  stated  that  its 
height  had  been  as  great  as  500  feet.  In  those 
days  it  was  a  landmark  visible  for  forty  or  fifty 
miles;  now  it  is  hardly  35  feet  in  height. 
Around  tba  '^8-ist  of  the  base  runs  a  white  band 


which  sets  off  its  height,  and  relieves  the  uni- 
form yellow  tint.  It  has  often  been  struck  by 
lightning". 

Tfie  Overland  Pony  Express. 

The  Pony  Express  (of  which  few  now  remem- 
ber those  days  of  excitement  and  interest)  was 
started  in  I860,  and  the  3d  of  April,  that  year,  is 
the  memorable  date  of  the  starting  of  that  first 
trip.  In  those  days,  the  achievements  of  the 
Pony  Express  were  attended  with  an  eager  excite- 
ment hardly  less  interesting  than  the  building  of 
the  Pacific  Railroad  itself.  "  Overland  to  Califor- 
nia in  thirteen  days"  was  repeated  everywhere  as 
a  remarkable  achievement.  The  first  company 
organized  was  formed  in  California  in  1858  or 
1859,  under  the  name  of  the  Central  Overland 
California  and  Pike's  Peak  Express.  At  that 
time,  with  no  telegraph  or  even  stage  line  across 
the  continent,  this  attempt  was  considered  extra- 
ordinarily au- 
dacious. The 
services  plan- 
ned and  exe- 
cuted by  the 
company  were 
a  pony  express, 
with  stations 
sixty  miles 
apart,  the  en- 
tire distance 
from  St. Joseph, 
Mo.,  to  Sacra- 
mento. The 
time  occupied 
between  ocean 
and  ocean  was 
fourteen  days, 
and  from  St. 
Joseph  to  San 
Francisco,  ten 

days.  And  the  schedule  of  the  company  re- 
quired the  pony  express  to  make  trips  in  the 


following  time : 

From  St.  Joseph  to  Marysville,  12  hours. 

From  St.  Joseph  to  Fort  Kearny,  34  hours. 

From  St.  Joseph  to  Laramie,  80  hours. 

From  St.  Joseph  to  Fort  Bridger,  108  hours. 

From  St.  Joseph  to  Salt  Loke,  124  hours. 

From  St.  Joseph  to  Camp  Floyd,  128  hours. 

From  St.  Joseph  to  Carson  City,  118  hours. 

From  St.  Joseph  to  Placerville,  226  hours. 

From  St.  Joseph  to  Sacramento,  232  hours. 

From  St.  Joseph  to  San  Francisco,  240  hours. 

An  express  messenger  left  once  a  week  from  each 
side  with  not  more  than  ten  pounds  of  matter. 
The  best  of  riders  Vere  chosen  from  among  trap- 
pers, scouts  and  plains  men,  familiar  with  all  the 
life  of  the  route,  fearless,  and  capable  of  great 
physical  power,  endurance  and  bravery.  The 
ponies  were  very  swift  and  strong,  a  cross  be- 
tween the  American  horse  and  Indian  pony,  and 
after  each  run  of  sixty  miles,  waited  till  the  ar- 
rival of  the  messenger  from  the  opposite  direc- 


44 


OVERLAND  PONY  EXPRESS  PURSUED  BY  HIGHWAYMEN. 


tion,  when  each  returned.  The  riders  were  con- 
stantly exposed  to  dangers  from  Indian  attacks 
and  pursued  by  highwaymen ;  and  to  compen- 
sate them  for  this  risk  they  received  the  large 
salary  of  $1,200  a  month  each ;  and  the  modest 
price  charged  for  the  conveyance  of  business 
letters  was  $5.00,  gold,  per  quarter  ounce.  At 
the  time  of  the  departure  of  the  first  messenger 
from  St.  Joseph,  a  special  train  was  run  over  the 
Hannibal  and  St.  Joseph  Railroad  to  bring  the 
through  messenger  from  New  York,  and  a  "  Pony 
Express  Extra  "  was  issued  of  two  pages,  by  the 
St.  Joseph  Daily  Gazette,  containing  telegraphic 
news  from  all 
parts  of  the 
world,  with  a 
heavily  leaded 
account  of  the 
new  enterprise, 
and  sending 
greetings  to  the 
press  of  Califor- 
nia. 

The  route 
from  St.  Joseph, 
after  reaching 
the  Platte  Val- 
ley, followed 
just  north  of  the 
present  track  of 
the  Pacific  Rail- 
.road  to  Lara- 
mie,  then  up  the  OLD  PONY  EXPRESS  STATION 

Sweet  Water  to  Salt  Lake,  and  down  the  Hum- 
boldt  to  Sacramento.     Night  and  day  the  messen- 


gers spurred  their  ponies  with  the  greatest  speed 
each  could  endure.  Often  on  arriving  at  an 
express  station  the  messenger,  without  waiting 
to  dismount,  tossed  his  bag  to  another  already 
waiting,  and  each  were  off  at  once,  back  again, 
and  thus  for  eight  days  the  little  express  bag 
traveled,  arriving  at  the  rail  terminus,  rarely  a 
minute  behind  the  prescribed  time,  a  total  dis- 
tance of  2,000  miles. 

For  two  years  this  system  was  kept  up,  until 
the  telegraph  line  was  finished  in  1862,  when  the 
company  dissolved  with  a  loss  of  $200,000.  As  an 
instance  of  rapid  speed,  once,  very  important  dis- 
patches— e  1  e  c  - 
tion  news— were 
carried  from  St. 
Joseph,  Mo.,  to 
Denver  City, 
Col.,  625  miles, 
in  sixty-nine 
hours,  the  last 
ten  miles  being 
made  in  thirty- 
one  minutes. 
On  this  and  next 
]>a<,r»'.  we  give 
two  illustrations 
characteristic  of 
these  times. 
One  engraving 
is  taken  from  a 
painting  of  G. 

AT  CHEESE  CREEK,  NEBRASKA.  (|.  ]VI.    (  ittillger, 

of  Salt  Lake  City,  which  represents  the  express 
rider  dashing  along  and  cheering  the  telegraph 


45 


men  who  were  erecting  the  poles.  This  is  an 
actual  scene,  as,  in  the  summer  of  1862,  while  the 
telegraph  was  under  construction,  the  flitting  by 
of  the  Pony  Express  was  an  almost  daily  occur- 
rence. An  illustration  is  also  given  of  one  of 
these  express  stations  at  Cheese  Creek,  Neb., 
which  was  soon  afterwards  abandoned  as  a  thing 
of  the  past.  The  government  mails  were  carried 
by  special  contract  of  the  Overland  Mail  Com- 
pany with  the  United  States  government,  which 
was  started  in  1858,  who  contracted  with  them  to 
run  a  monthly  mail  from  San  Francisco  to  the 
Missouri  River  for  a  consideration  of  $650,000 
annual  compensation.  Of  this  company,  John 
Butterfield  who  drove  the  first  coach,  was  presi- 
dent. The  route  chosen  was  the  Ox  Bow,  via. 
Santa  Fe,  but  in  1860  the  Indians  became  so 


the  driver  may  be  heard  shouting  loudly,  or  with 
terrific  whoop — a  mile  or  so  before  his  station  is 
reached  the  keepers  have  heard  it — and  as  his 
stage  rattles  up,  the  new  relay  of  horses  is  ready, 
and  in  two  or  three  minutes  the  stage  is  on  its  way 
again.  After  a  few  days'  journey,  the  travelers 
become  used  to  the  swinging  motion  of  the  stage, 
and  sleep  as  naturally  as  if  made  for  such  a  life. 

A  Word  with  Invalids. 

Thousands  of  invalids,  especially  consumptives, 
visit  the  mountains  and  California  coast,  every 
year,  in  search  of  health,  and  to  try  the  effect  of  a 
change  of  climate  in  restoring  them  to  activity  and 
vigor.  There  can  be  no  question  but  that  many 
have  been  benefited  by  the  change,  and  it  is  a  fact 
equally  patent  that  many  have  left  good  homes, 


PONY  EXPRESS  SALUTIXG  THE  TELEGRAPH. 


troublesome  that  the  route  was  changed  to  that 
of  the  Pony  Express,  and  soon  afterwards  a  daily 
mail  was  established  at  an  expense  of  $1,000,000 
annually.  The  incidents  of  overland  stage  life 
have  been  repeated  over  and  over  again  in  books 
of  Western  adventure.  Here  and  there  were 
lonely  post-offices  away  out  on  the  distant  prairies 
or  plains.  No  passengers  to  set  down  or  take  up, 
the  driver  throws  out  his  mail-bag,  catches  the 
one  thrown  to  him,  and  whirls  on  without  stop- 

Sing,  or  scarcely  checking  the  speed  of  his  team, 
lorning,  noon  or  night  comes  the  inevitable 
"  refreshment  station"  such  as  it  is,  where  the 
weary  passengers,  well  shaken  up,  were  glad  to 
regale  themselves  on  pork  and  beans,  corn  bread, 
and  "slumgullion" — the  Far  Western  name  for 
tea.  Toward  the  middle  of  the  night,  perhaps, 


kind  friends,  and  plenty  of  care — to  die  alone 
and  among  strangers.  With  this  last  class  the 
main  trouble  is,  they  wait  too  long  in  the  East 
before  starting.  The  disease,  more  or  less  rapid 
in  its  strides,  gets  too  firm  a  hold  upon  the  sys- 
tem— becomes  too  deeply  rooted  to  be  easily 
thrown  off ;  then  they  start  for  health  and  rest 
that  cannot  be  found,  and  most  always  go  too  far 
in  search  of  it.  There  are  a  few  words  of  ad- 
vice to  these  people,  which  are  the  result  of  years 
of  observation  and  experience  on  the  plains  and 
among  the  mountains. 

First,  the  discovery  of  a  tendency  to  lung  and 
throat  diseases  should  be  a  sufficient  incentive 
to  prompt  one  to  an  immediate  change  of  cli- 
mate. Do  not  wait  until  a  change  becomes  hope- 
less because  of  the  advanced  stages  of  the  disease. 


46 


Second,  do  not  at  first  go  too  far.  This  is 
another  mistake  frequently  committed  by  those 
who  finally  get  started. 

Third,  do  not  go  too  fast.  Remember  the 
railroad  from  Omaha,  in  less  than  two  days,  will 
take  you  to  an  altitude  of  more  than  8,000  feet, 
and  this  is  a  severe  test  on  a  pair  of  healthy 
lungs,  to  say  nothing  of  its  effect  upon  weak 
ones.  First  go  as  far  as  Grand  Island,  and  stop. 
This  place  is  1,850  feet  above  the  sea,  and  you 
are  in  the  midst  of  a  fine  prairie  country, 
with  a  generally  clear  atmosphere  and  balmy 
breezes.  Here  are  good  hotel  accommodations, 
in  a  thickly  settled  region,  where  you  can  obtain 
plenty  of  fresh  milk,  cream  and  eggs,  and  such 


either  along  the  stream  or  on  the  adjoining  high- 
lands, still  camping  out,  until  you  reach  North 
Platte.  Then  take  another  rest,  look  around  the 
country,  mount  your  horse  and  ride  out  to  the 
cattle  ranches  and  live  with  the  herders  for  a 
time.  Do  not  be  in  a  hurry  to  get  away,  and 
after  you  have  been  here  a  month  or  six  weeks, 
if  you  still  improve,  or  even  hold  your  own  with 
the  character  of  the  life  herein  prescribed,  it  will 
be  safe  for  you  to  go  still  farther,  and  in  the  same 
manner.  But  if  you  are  not  benefited  by  the 
trip  thus  far,  it  will  be  better  for  you  to  return  to 
your  homes  and  friends,  where  loving  hands  can 
smooth  your  pillow  and  administer  comfort  dur- 
ing your  declining  days. 


BUFFALO  HUNTING. 


other  articles  of  diet  as  are  necessary  and  condu- 
cive to  your  welfare.  Ride  or  walk  out  from 
town ;  go  around  among  the  farmers,  and  if, 
after  a  month  or  so,  you  improve  and  wish  to  go 
farther,  buy  a  team  and  wagon,  and  from  this 
place  go  along  leisurely  overland,  camping  out  if 
the  weather  h  favorable.  There  are  opportuni- 
ties for  hunting  and  fishing,  along  the  road, 
•which  will  afford  amusement  and  recreation. 
When  you  get  to  Kearny  Junction,  stop  a  few 
•weeks.  Notice  the  effect  of  your  new  mode  of 
life  and  the  climate  upon  your  health,  and  if 
you  simply  hold  your  own,  it  is  safe  for  you  to 
take  another  step  up  the  Platte  Valley  in  your 
westward  journey.  Leisurely  pursue  your  way, 


If  the  journey  has  benefited  you,  pursue  it 
overland  and  camping  out,  to  Sidney  or  Chey- 
enne, up  the  Lodge  Pole  Valley  and  along  side 
of  the  railroad,  or  at  Julesburg  go  up  the  South 
Platte  Valley  to  Greeley.  You  are  now,  if  at 
Cheyenne,  over  6,000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  be- 
tween 5,000  and  6,000  feet  at  either  Greeley  or 
Denver,  in  the  midst  of  a  rarified  and  dry  atmos- 
phere. If  your  health  is  regained,  do  not  think 
of  returning,  for  this  is  almost  sure  to  bring  on  a 
relapse,  which  is  usually  sudden,  and  from  which 
there  is  no  escape;  your  safety  depends  upon 
your  remaining  in  these  high  altitudes,  and  on 
the  high  and  dry  plains  of  the  West.  A  trip 
down  in  New  Mexico,  and  across  the  plains  to 


47 


Arizona,  will  also  prove  beneficial.  In  the  old 
overland  times,  thousands  of  consumptives  re- 
gained their  health  in  driving  teams,  and  by 
slowly  crossing  the  plains,  who  would  have  died 
if  the  same  journey  had  been  taken  on  the  cars. 
By  the  latter  mode,  the  change  from  a  damp  and 
heavy  atmosphere  in  the  East,  to  the  rarified  and 
dry  air  of  the  plains  and  mountains,  is  too  sud- 
den ;  and  after  all,  if  the  disease  has  become 
thoroughly  seated,  it  is  doubtful  if  any  change 
will  be  effectual.  It  is  an  experiment  which 
should  only  be  tried  with  all  possible  safeguards 
thrown  around  it. 

Buffalo  Grass. — After  you  have  passed  the 
stations  of  North  Platte  and  Sidney,  you  will  ob- 
serve the  entire  country  carpeted  with  a  short, 
dried  up  grass  growing  in  little  bunches.  This  is 
the  famous  buffalo  grass  which  covers  thousands  of 
miles  of  the  plains  northward  and  southward  and 
westward.  Though  it  gives  to  the  country  a 
dried  look,  as  if  the  very  appearance  of  desola- 
tion and  sterility,  yet  it  is  the  richest  grass  ever 
known  in  the  world.  The  entire  State  of  Ne- 
braska is  famous  for  its  remarkable  variety  of 
grasses.  The  Platte  Valley  is  the  home  of  no 
less  than  149  varieties,  all  native  to  the  soil, 
and  were  it  not  for  the  extraordinary  beauty 
and  luxuriance  of  the  green  carpet  the  grasses 
make,  the  Valley  of  the  Platte  would  be  almost 
wholly  devoid  of  interest.  The  buffalo  grass  is 
rarely  over  two  to  three  inches  in  height,  and  its 
seed  is  produced  on  flowers  almost  covered  by 
leaves  close  to  the  ground.  It  grows  in  little 
tufts,  broad  and  dense,  and  is  exceedingly  rich 
and  sweet,  having  no  less  than  3  6-10  per  cent, 
of  saccharine  matter.  When  making  its  first 
growth  in  the  spring,  it  is  green,  then  dries  on 
its  stem  and  remains  the  rest  of  the  year  like 
cured  hay  on  the  open  ground,  retaining  all  its 
sweetness.  Without  a  single  exception,  horses, 
mules  and  stock  of  all  descriptions,  will  forsake 
all  other  kinds  of  grass  until  all  the  buffalo  grass 
within  reach  has  been  consumed.  While  the 
buffaloes  roamed  over  this  country  it  was  their 
natural  food,  but  with  their  disappearance  and 
the  coming  of  the  white  man,  it  is  disappearing 
to  give  place  to  others.  Leaving  North  Platte, 
the  next  station  is 

Nichols,— 299.4  miles  from  Omaha,  and  2,882 
feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  simply  a  side  track  with 
section-house  near,  in  the  midst  of  the  level 
bottom  lands  between  the  two  rivers,  both  of 
which  are  in  sight.  Before  reaching  North  Platte 
it  will  be  observed  that  the  bottom  narrows,  and 
that  the  bluffs  or  sand-hills  in  some  instances 
approach  the  river's  bank.  But  after  leaving 
the  town,  for  nearly  twenty  miles  west,  the  level 
prairie  between  the  rivers  spreads  out  in  view, 
with  bluffs  on  either  side  beyond.  Between 
North  Platte  and  this  station  there  are  a  few  set- 
tlers, but  the  territory  is  mostly  occupied  as  the 
winter  range  of  Keith  &  Barton's  herd  of  cattle, 


as  they  are  easily  confined  between  the  rivers 
with  little  help. 

O>Fallon's—\s  the  next  station.  It  is  307.9 
miles  from  Omaha,  with  an  elevation  of  2,976 
feet.  It  is  a  telegraph  station.  O'Fallon's  Bluffs 
are  plainly  visible  south  of  the  South  Platte 
River,  which  they  closely  approach ;  at  this 
point  we  lose  sight  of  the  Valley  of  the  North 
Platte — a  ridge  of  low  hills  jutting  down  from 
the  west,  while  the  railroad  follows  the  south 
river.  The  railroad  reached  this  place  late  in  the 
fall  of  1866,  but  North  Platte  was  the  terminal 
station  until  Julesburg  was  reached  in  1867.  If 
there  was  any  timber  on  the  streams  in  this 
vicinity,  it  has  long  since  disappeared.  On  an 
island  in  the  South  Platte  the  Indians  used  to 
camp,  and  from  their  hiding  places  in  the  sand- 
hills and  bluffs,  frequently  attacked  emigrants 
and  trains,  but  as  before  remarked,  with  the  buf- 
faloes, the  Indians  disappear. 

Dexter — is  simply  a  side  track  where  trains 
occasionally  meet  and  pass.  It  is  31 5.2  miles  from 
Omaha,  and  has  an  elevation  of  3,000  feet.  The 
bluffs  here  come  very  near  the  river,  and  they 
are  utilized  in  the  building  of  a  corral — the  rocky 
ledge  answering  all  the  purposes  of  a  fence. 
The  monotony  of  the  scenery  up  to  this  point 
now  passes  away,  and  the  traveler  will  always 
find  something  in  the  ever-varying  views  of  rocks, 
bluffs,  streams  and  plains  that  will  interest  him 
in  the  journey. 

Alkali. — A  telegraph  station,  322.4  miles  from 
the  Missouri  River,  and  3,038  feet  above  the  sea. 
The  alkali  spots  which  have  been  witnessed  in 
the  soil  since  we  left  Omaha,  are  now  more  fre- 
quent, and  the  station  naturally  takes  its  name 
from  these  characteristics.  This  station  has  a 
small  depot,  side  track  and  section-house ;  is  in 
the  midst  of  a  fine  grazing  country,  and  opposite 
an  old  stage  station  south  of  the  river. 

Koscoe. — Simply  a  side  track,  332.0  miles 
from  Omaha,  with  an  elevation  of  3,105  feet. 
Just  before  reaching  this  place,  and  in  this  vicin- 
ity, the  railroad  passes  through  more  sandy 
bluffs  that  approach  the  river. 

Ogalalla — is  the  next  station,  341.6  miles 
from  Omaha.  Elevation  3,190  feet.  It  is  the 
county-seat  of  Keith  County,  Nebraska,  and  is 
destined  to  be  the  Texas  town  on  the  line  of  the 
Union  Pacific.  The  regular  trail  for  driving 
cattle  from  Texas  may  be  said  to  terminate  here. 
It  has  a  depot,  water  tank,  side  tracks,  cattle 
chutes,  store,  one  or  two  boarding-houses,  saloon, 
etc.  It  is  the  head-quarters  and  outfitting  place 
of  a  large  number  of  ranchmen,  who  have  herds 
of  cattle  in  this  vicinity.  It  is  some  twelve 
miles  from  the  North  Platte  River,  where  a  num- 
ber of  herds  find  ample  range.  In  1880,  it  is 
claimed  that  nearly  50,000  head  of  Texas  cattle 
were  driven  to  this  point,  and  afterwards  dis- 
tributed to  various  parties  to  whom  they  were 
sold.  A  large  number  cf  them  were  taken  to  the 


48 


Indian  agencies  at  Red  Cloud  and  Spotted  Tail. 
There  will  be  numerous  buildings  erected  soon  to 
accommodate  the  growing  necessities  of  the  town. 
Leaving  Ogalalla  we  next  come  to 

Brule, — so  called  from  the  Brule  Sioux,  a 
band  of  which  Spotted  Tail  is  the  chief.  Red 
Cloud  is  chief  of  the  Ogalalla  Sioux.  This  is 
probably  the  most  powerful  tribe  of  Indians  now 
existing  in  the  country,  and  when  all  united  they 
are  said  to  be  able  to  raise  at  least  10,000  war- 
riors. Those  of  them  who  have  been  taken  east 
to  Washington  and  other  eastern  cities,  seem  to 
have  lost  their  belligerent  feelings  toward  the 
whites,  and  will  not  probably  go  to  war  with 
them  unless  misled  by  tricksters  or  influenced  by 
some  other  powerful  motive.  The  young  "  bucks" 
who  have  remained  on  their  reservations,  how- 
ever, think  they  can  whip  the  whole  country  in 
a  very  short  time  if  they  should  once  get  at  it. 
This  station  was  a  favorite  crossing  place  with 
this  band  of  Sioux  during  the  years  when  they 
used  to  hunt  on  the  rivers  south,  or  go  on  their 
scalping  and  horse-stealing  expeditions.  Brule 
is  351.2  miles  from  Omaha,  and  has  an  eleva- 
tion of  3,266  feet.  North  of  this  place,  on 
the  North  Platte,  is  Ash  Hollow,  a  celebrated 
camping  ground  for  Indians  and  the  scene  of  a 
great  victory  over  them  by  General  Harney,  in 
1839.  The  whole  tribe  of  Sioux  probably  have 
a  greater  admiration  for  General  Harney,  to-day, 
than  for  any  other  living  American.  Physical 
force  is  the  only  power  which  they  can  be  made 
to  respect  and  fear.  Next  comes 

Biff  Spring,— which  is  360.9  miles  fr.m  the 
eastern  end  of  the  road,  with  an  elevation  of 
3,325  feet.  It  is  so  named  from  large  springs 
which  break  to  the  surface  of  the  ground  at  the 
foot  of  the  bluffs,  on  the  right-hand  side  of  the 
road  going  west,  and  in  plain  sight  of  the  cars. 
The  water  tank,  at  this  station,  is  supplied  from 
these  springs.  The  water  is  excellent,  and  the 
station  is  quite  a  camping  place  for  those  who 
continue  to  journey  overland.  This  is  a  tele- 
graph station. 

Barton,— called  after  Hon.  Guy  C.  Barton  of 
North  Platte.  It  is  368.7  miles  from  Omaha,  and 
3,421  feet  above  the  sea — simply  a  side  track 
where  trains  meet  and  pass.  Beyond  this  sta- 
tion, a  short  distance,  the  old  town  of  Julesburg 
can  be  seen  across  the  river.  Late  in  1S75,  a 
stray  herd  of  about  six  hundred  buffaloes  quietly 
passed  over  the  old  town  site  to  and  from  the 
river,  where  they  went  for  water.  It  will  proba- 
bly be  their  last  visitation  to  this  part  of  the 
country. 

Denver  Junction — 371  miles  from  Omaha, 
3,541  feet  above  the  sea.  The  "Denver  Short 
Line,"  a  branch  of  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad, 
here  turns  off  to  the  southwest,  soon  enters 
South  Platte  Valley,  and,  by  easy  grades  and 
great  saving  in  distance  over  existing  routes, 
Jcads  direct  to  Denver,  while  the  Overland  Route 


pursues  its  course  directly  west.  This  branch 
is  graded  and  bridged  nearly  the  entire  distance 
and  ironed  part  of  the  way.  It  will  doubtless 
be  in  operation  through  to  Denver  in  August, 
1881.  This  branch  was  first  commenced  some 
ten  years  ago,  but,  by  an  agreement  made  in 
1875,  the  Union  Pacific,  or  men  in  the  com- 
pany, relinquished  the  proposed  and  completed 
roads  in  Colorado  to  the  Kansas  Pacific,  and 
the  latter  road  relinquished  its  through-busi- 
ness to  the  Pacific  Coast,  and  its  efforts  to  com- 
pel the  Union  Pacific  to  pro  rate  with  it  from 
Cheyenne  West.  This  arrangement  effected  th  o 
entire  suspension  of  all  efforts  to  complete  thi  i? 
road  until  the  Union  Pacific  Company  bougl)  fr 
up  the  Kansas  Pacific  in  1879,  when  operations 
were  soon  again  commenced  on  abandoned 
routes.  This  line  will  be  some  seventy  mile? 
shorter  than  the  present  route  from  Omaha  to 
Denver  via  Cheyenne,  eighty -five  miles  shorter 
from  the  Missouri  River  to  Denver  than  the  oltl 
Kansas  Pacific  route  from  Kansas  City,  and  200 
miles  shorter  than  the  Atchison,  Topeka  and 
Santa  Fe  from  the  same  point. 

The  Union  Pacific  Company  is  arrang- 
ing to  run  a  fast  Denver  Express  through 
from  Omaha  to  Denver  via  this  line,  for  the 
accommodation  of  passengers  arriving  at  Omaha 
from  the  East  at  eight,  and  will  enable  patrons 
to  reach  the  "Queen  City  of  the  Plains"  from 
Chicago  or  St.  Louis  in  twelve  hours'  quicker 
time  than  ever  before. 

Weir,  formerly  Julesburg — 377.4  mile* 
from  Omaha,  and  3,500  feet  above  the  sea — is  an 
interesting  historical  point,  and  for  many  yeai  -» 
has  been  one  of  the  most  important  stations  ii» 
Western  Nebraska.  It  was  named  after  Jul<  i» 
Burg — a  frontier  character,  who  was  killed  by 
one  Jack  Slade,  another  rough,  in  the  old  ovei  - 
land  stage  times.  The  old  town  was  across  the 
river,  some  four  miles  below  the  present 
station,  and  was  a  pretty  rough  place.  The 
station  is  opposite  old  Fort  Sedgwick,  now 
abandoned,  and  was  the  proposed  junction  of 
the  branch  railroad,  above  described,  up  tha 
South  Platte  River.  It  has  been  quite  a  place 
for  shipping  stock,  has  one  or  two  stores,  some 
adobe  houses  and  stables,  with  cattle-yards  and 
chutes.  At  this  point  the  Union  Pacific  passes 
through  the  northeastern  corner  of  Colorado, 
and  here  it  leaves  the  South  Platte  River  and 
ascends  Lodge  Pole  Creek  to  within  a  few 
miles  of  Cheyenne. 

Incidents  in  the  History  of  Julcslmrg. 

The  Overland  Stage  Company  had  quite  an  im- 
portant station  at  Julesburg,  south  side  of  the 
river,  and  about  a  mile  east  of  the  location  of 
Fort  Sedgwick.  It  was  in  1805,  before  any  rails 
had  been  laid  on  the  Union  Pacific.  The  stage 
company  had  accumulated  a  large  quantity  of 
supplies  at  this  station,  and  the  Indians  knowing 


49 


this,  and  ever  hostile  to  the  travel  of  the  whites 
through  this  region,  had  their  cupidity  aroused. 
Troops  were  scattered  all  along  the  route,  and 
frequently  had  to  escort  the  stages  from  one  sta- 
tion to  another.  At  Julesburg,  the  road  crossed 
the  South  Platte,  followed  the  Lodge  Pole  up  to 
Sidney,  and  then  crossed  over  to  the  North 
Platte,  which  it  ascended  to  Fort  Laramie  and 
beyond.  Capt.  N.  J.  O'Brien  was  in  command 
at  the  fort,  with  one  company  of  the  Seventh 
Iowa  Cavalry,  and  two  pieces  of  artillery.  On 
the  7th  of  January,  1875,  the  Sioux  and  Chey- 
ennes,  one  thousand  strong,  discovering  the 
small  force  to  defend  it,  attacked  the  fort  with 
great  bravery.  They  had  previously  run  the 
stage  into  the  station,  killing  one  man  and  one 
horse.  When  their  presence  was  discovered, 


but  leaving  their  dead  comrades  to  fall  into  the 
hands  of  the  blood-thirsty  foe.  The  Indians  per- 
ceiving their  disposition  to  fall  back,  redoubled 
their  efforts,  and  endeavored  to  cut  them  off  from 
the  fort.  They  attacked  with  greater  fury  and 
boldness  than  ever,  and  came  very  near  effecting 
their  purpose.  The  men,  however,  fell  back  in 
good  order,  and  were  successful  in  gaining  the 
fort.  The  Indians  now  surrounded  this,  but  the 
artillery  was  brought  out  and  served  with  good 
effect,  so  that  they  were  kept  at  bay,  and  event- 
ually night  put  an  end  to  the  conflict.  In  the 
night  the  Indians  withdrew,  and  when  the  morn- 
ing broke,  not  one  was  in  sight.  But  now  comes 
the  most  horrible  part  of  this  incident.  The 
men  went  out  to  find,  if  possible,  the  bodies  of 
their  dead  comrades.  They  found  them,  but 


INDIAN  ATTACK  ON  AN  OVERLAND  STAGE. 


Captain  O'Brien  made  the  best  disposition  possi- 
ble with  his  small  force.  He  left  a  sergeant  with 
some  twelve  men  in  the  fort,  to  handle  the  artil- 
lery, and  mounting  the  rest,  thirty-seven  men 
and  one  officer,  besides  himself,  went  out  to  meet 
the  savages.  The  charge  was  sounded,  and  in 
they  went.  About  a  mile  from  the  fort  there  is 
a  projecting  hill  in  the  bluffs,  back  of  and  around 
which  the  main  body  of  the  Indians  were  con- 
cealed. As  the  men  neared  the  top  of  this  hill, 
they  saw  the  large  force  opposed  to  them,  but 
never  flinched.  The  Indians  charged  upon  them 
with  great  fury,  and  for  quite  a  time  the  unequal 
contest  was  continued.  But  his  ranks  having 
become  depleted  by  the  loss  of  fourteen  of  the 
thirty-seven  enlisted  men,  the  captain  ordered 
them  to  fall  back,  which  they  did  in  good  order, 


nearly  all  were  beyond  recognition ;  stripped  of 
every  vestige  of  clothing,  mutilated  beyond  ac- 
count, cold  and  stark  they  lay,  in  the  places  they 
had  fallen ;  their  fingers,  toes  and  ears  cut  off, 
their  mouths  filled  with  powder  and  ignited,  and 
every  conceivable  indignity  committed  upon  their 
persons.  Sorrowfully  they  gathered  up  these  re- 
mains, and  conveyed  them  to  the  fort,  where 
they  were  decently  buried ;  but  the  recollections 
of  that  awful  night,  did  not  fade  from  the  mem- 
ories of  the  survivors  of  that  company.  In  sub- 
sequent battles  with  the  savages,  their  courage 
was  quickened  and  their  arms  nerved  to  deeds  of 
daring,  which  cost  many  a  warrior  his  life,  and 
gave  him  a  sudden  exit  to  his  happy  hunting 
grounds.  The  loss  of  the  savages  in  this  battle, 
could  not,  at  the  time,,  be  accurately  ascertained, 


50 


but  from  the  best  information  since  obtained, 
admitted  by  the  Indians  themselves,  they  had 
sixty-three  warriors  killed  in  this  engagement. 
None  were  found  on  the  field,  as  they  always  carry 
their  dead  away  with  them. 

On  the  second  day  of  February,  less  than  a 
month  from  the  above  attack,  they  appeared  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  fort  again,  and  attacked  and 
burned  the  station  house  of  the  stage  company, 
other  out-buildings  and  stores,  and  one  or  two 
houses  adjoining.  Five  miles  below  the  station 
was  a  ravine  called  the  Devil's  Dive,  through 
which  the  stages  passed.  Captain  O'Brien  and 
four  or  five  men  were  escorting  the  coach  with 
three  or  four  passengers,  one  of  whom  was  a  lady. 
As  he  ascended  the  bank  of  the  ravine  going  to- 
ward the  fort,  he  saw  a  .smoke,  and  riding  up  to  the 
top  of  a  hill,  he  saw  Indians.  Returning  to  the 
coach,  he  had  every  man,  passengers  and  all,  care- 
fully examine  his  arms,  and  caused  the  coach  to 
proceed  slowly  along.  Soon  the  road  neared  the 
bank  of  the  river,  and  here  he  mst  some  team 
sters  with  wagons,  who,  beyond  a  pistol  or  two, 
were  unarmed,  and  who  had  left  the  station  for 
some  object,  less  than  a  half  hour  before.  They 
now  becam3  aware  of  the  situation,  and  were 
greatly  alarmed.  These  msn  the  captain  ordered 
to  return  and  keep  near  tha  stage,  which  they  did, 
all  moving  slowly  toward  the  station  and  fort. 
Meanwhile  the  heads  of  Indians  were  popping 
up  quite  frequently,  over  the  bluffs  in  the  dis- 
tance. Arriving  near  one  of  these,  the  captain 
boldly  rode  to  the  top,  and  taking  his  blanket 
swung  it  three  times  over  his  head.  The  Indians 
saw  this,  and  supposed  he  had  a  large  force  in 
the  rear,  which  hs  was  signaling  to  come  up,  and 
they  began  to  fly.  The  river  was  frozen,  and 
sand  had  been  scattered  over  two  roadways  on 
the  ice.  They  took  everything  they  could  from 
the  burning  station  and  houses,  and  beat  a  re- 
treat across  the  river.  At  the  first  sign  of  their 
leaving,  the  stage-driver  and  teamsters  put  their 
animals  to  their  utmost  speed,  and  ran  into  the 
fort,  the  captain  arriving  there  in  time  to  give 
the  Indians  a  few  parting  shots  from  his  artillery 
as  the  last  of  them,  ran  across  the  river.  The 
shots  ricocheted  along  the  ice,  and  caused  the 
Indians  to  drop  some  of  their  plunder,  though 
doing  no  further  damage,  as  we  could  learn. 

These  are  only  two  of  the  many  incidents  in 
our  frontier  history,  that  will  soon  be  beyond 
the  reach  and  knowledge  of  either  the  present  or 
future  generations. 

The  Great  Indian  Battle  at  Summit 
Springs. 

On  the  divide  south  of  the  South  Platte  River, 
and  about  midway  between  old  Fort  Morgan 
and  old  Fort  Sedgwick,  opposite  to  which  Jules- 
burg  now  stands,  there  are  some  fine  springs — 
the  only  good  water  in  quite  a  region  of  territory. 
They  are  now  called  Summit  Springs;  and  are 

4 


near  the  summit  of  a  divide  from  which  the 
water,  when  there  is  any,  runs  north  and  south- 
In  the  winter  of  18(59,  Major  Frank  North,  be- 
fore alluded  to,  received  orders  to  recruit  his 
scouts  for  the  summer  campaign.  He  organized 
one  company  in  February,  and  two  the  following 
April,  the  total  number  in  the  three  companies 
being  one  hundred  and  fifty  men,  exclusive  of 
their  white  officers.  In  April  of  that  year,  Gen- 
eral Carr,  taking  two  of  these  companies  and 
eight  of  the  Fifth  Cavalry,  then  stationed  at 
Fort  McPherson,  was  ordered  to  scout  the  coun- 
try in  the  Republican,  Solomon  and  Saline  Val- 
leys and  their  tributaries,  and  strike  any  ma- 
rauding bands  of  Indians  he  might  find.  At 
that  time,  the  Indians  were  raiding  the  advanced 
settlements  in  the  lower  Republican  and  Solomon 
Valleys,  burning  houses,  killing  and  scalping 
men,  women  and  children,  and  stealing  all  this 
horses  they  could  find.  The  third  company  of 
the  scouts  had  not  then  been  organized.  As 
soon  as  this  was  done,  Major  North  was  ordered 
to  take  them  across  the  country  from  Fort 
Kearny,  and  join  General  Carr's  command,  at 
the  mouth  of  Prairie  Dog  Creek,  in  the  Repub- 
lican Valley.  This  he  did,  effecting  a  junction 
about  the  oth  of  May.  After  scouting  the  coun- 
try between  the  Republican  and  Solomon  for 
about  a  month,  the  command  returned  to  the 
Republican,  where  it  met  a  supply  train,  which 
had  been  sent  out  from  Fort  McPherson,  and 
then  proceeded  up  the  valley.  On  arriving  at 
the  mouth  of  Medicine  Creek,  they  struck  the 
trail  of  a  large  village.  This  was  on  the  first 
day  of  July,  and  they  continued  to  follow  it  up 
the  river  for  about  one  hundred  and  twenty-five 
miles.  The  trail  then  left  the  valley,  and  bore 
off  to  the  North,  until  it  struck  Frenchman 
Creek,  then  up  that  creek  to  its  source,  and  then 
over  a  divide  to  Summit  Springs,  about  thirty- 
five  miles  from  the  headwaters  of  the  Frenchman. 
The  Indians  of  this  village  kept  pickets  out  as  a 
sort  of  a  rear-guard,  but  did  not  think  of  an  at- 
tack from  another  quarter.  The  Pawnee  scouts 
were  constantly  in  the  advance,  and  kept  the 
command  well  informed  of  the  condition  and  dis- 
position of  the  Indians.  They  had  discovered 
the  rear-guard  of  the  Indians,  without  bein^ 
themselves  seen,  reporting  their  situation,  and 
telling  just  how  the  attack  should  be  conducted, 
in  order  to  be  successful.  A  wide  detour  would 
have  to  be  made,  and  the  Indian  village,  en- 
camped in  a  ravine  near  the  springs,  would  have 
to  be  approached  and  attacked  from  the  west. 
Every  precaution  was  taken  to  conceal  the  move- 
ments of  the  troops.  The  attack  was  made  on  the 
llth  day  of  July.  The  heavy  wagon  train  was  left 
in  the  rear,  and  the  best  horses  with  their  riders, 
were  selected  for  the  march,  which  was  supposed 
to  be,  with  the  detour  mentioned,  at  least  fifty 
miles.  The  command  arrived  within  about  a 
mile  and  a  half  of  the  Indians  undiscovered,  at 


51 


about  three  o'clock,  p.  M.,  but  before  the  disposi- 
tions and  arrangements  for  making  the  final 
charge  had  been  fully  completed,  one  company  of 
cavalry  unnecessarily  exposed  itself,  and  this  pre- 
cipitated the  attack.  The  Indians  were  Sioux, 
forty  lodges,  Cheyennes,  forty-five  lodges — eighty- 
five  in  all.  They  had  been  in  the  raids  together, 
and  were  to  separate  the  next  day.  They  had 
evidently  concluded  to  take  one  day  at  these 
splendid  Springs,  for  the  enjoyment  of  their  fare- 
well pow-wow,  but  it  proved  to  be  a  "  bad  medi- 
cine day  "  for  them.  When  they  saw  the  com- 
pany of  cavalry  that  had  unfortunately  been 
exposed  to  their  view,  they  ran  out  to  gather  in 
their  horses,  which  were  quietly  feeding  in  the 


the  chief.  He  was  seen,  as  the  troops  approached, 
mounted  upon  his  horse,  with  his  wife  and  child 
behind  him,  trying  to  escape,  but  when  he  found 
his  retreat  cut  off,  he  ran  into  a  "  pocket "  or 
"  draw,"  in  the  side  of  a  ravine,  with  almost  per- 
pendicular sides,  where  some  fifteen  other  war- 
riors had  taken  refuge.  He  had  a  very  fine  horse, 
which  he  led  to  the  mouth  of  this  "pocket"  and 
shot  dead.  He  then  took  his  wife  and  child  and 
pushed  them  up  on  the  bank  of  the  "pocket." 
telling  her,  as  he  did  this,  to  go  and  give  them- 
selves up,  perhaps  their  lives  would  be  spared. 
The  squaw  and  her  child,  a  beautiful  girl,  went 
straight  to  Major  North,  and  raising  her  hands 
in  token  of  submission,  drew  them  gently  over 


INDIAX  COSTUMES. 


vicinity  of  their  camp,  a  mile  or  more  away. 
There  was  no  time  for  delay.  The  troops  and 
scouts  charged  down  upon  them  with  all  their 
speed.  The  scouts,  as  usual,  set  up  their  infernal 
war-whoop,  and  went  in  with  a  rush.  The  In- 
dians were  wholly  unprepared  for  the  attack,  and 
some  of  them  were  quietly  lounging  in  their 
tents.  In  fact  it  was  nearly  a  complete  surprise. 
They  were  all  under  the  lead  of  Tall  Bull,  a  noted 
Cheyenne  chief  and  warrior,  and  numbered  about 
five  hundred  men,  women  and  children — nearly 
or  quite  two  hundred  being  wauriors.  Seventeen 
squaws  and  children  were  taken  prisoners,  and 
as  near  as  could  be  estimated,  one  hundred  and 
sixty  warriors  were  slain,  among  them  Tall  Bull, 


his  face  and  down  his  form  to  the  ground,  where 
she  sank  upon  her  knees,  her  child  standing  be- 
side her.  While  Major  North  can  talk  Pawnee 
like  a  native,  he  could  not  understand  what  she 
said,  but  as  all  Indians  use  sign  language  to  a 
great  extent,  he  readily  interpreted  her  motions 
to  mean  that  she  surrendered,  and  wanted  him  to 
spare  their  lives.  He  motioned  her  to  rise,  which 
she  did,  and  told  her  by  signs  to  go  a  little  way, 
sit  down  and  stay  there,  and  she  would  not  be 
harmed.  She  then,  by  signs,  indicated  that 
there  were  seven  living  braves  still  in  the 
"pocket,"  and  asked  him  to  go  in  after  them, 
doubtless  thinking  that  her  husband  might  be 
saved  with  herself.  He  declined  this  request, 


52 


especially  as  the  Indians  were  shooting  every  one 
they  could  see  from  their  concealed  position,  it 
being  simply  a  question  of  life  for  life,  and  fur- 
ther told  her  that  the  braves  in  the  ravine  would 
all  be  killed.  The  troops  and  scouts  staid 
around  this  "  pocket,"  until  satisfied  that  there 
were  no  living  Indians  there,  and,  on  entering, 
found  sixteen  dead  warriors  and  one  dead  squaw, 
lying  close  together,  among  whom  was  Tall  Bull. 
In  their  raids  in  the  Solomon  Valley,  they  had 
captured  two  white  women,  whose  lives  they  had 
spared  for  purposes  worse  than  death,  and  at  the 
time  this  attack  was  made,  they  were  still  alive. 
One  of  them  had  been  taken  by  the  principal 
Sioux  chief,  and  the  other  was  appropriated  by 
Tali  Bull,  whose  wife,  doubtless  from  motives  of 
ignorant  jealousy,  was  accustomed  to  give  her 
severe  whippings,  at  least  six  days  out  of  every 
seven,  and  her  body  showed  the  marks  where  she 
had  been  repeatedly  bruised  and  lacerated  by 
Tall  Bull's  squaw.  The  white  woman  who  was 
appropriated  by  the  Sioux  chief,  when  he  found 
she  was  likely  to  be  rescued,  was  shot  dead  by 
him,  and  only  gasped  for  breath  a  few  times  af- 
ter being  found  by  some  of  the  officers,  unable  to 


PAWNEE  CHIEF  IN  FULL  DRESS. 


utter  a  word.  As  near  as  could  be  learned,  her 
name  was  Susanna.  It  was  afterwards  ascer- 
tained that  she  was  a  Norwegian  woman,  and 
General  Carr,  in  his  report  of  the  battle,  calls  the 
Springs,  Susanna  Springs,  after  this  woman,  and 
near  which  she  was  decently  buried,  and  which 
name  they  ought  to  bear  now. 

When  the  charge  was  first  begun,  Captain 
Gushing  of  the  scouts,  passing  by  the  lodge  of 
Tall  Bull,  entered  it.  The  chief,  as  before 
stated,  had  fled  with  his  wife  and  child  at  the 
first  approach  of  danger,  but  in  his  lodge  th^re 
remained  the  other  captive  woman,  whom  he 
had  shot  and  evidently  left  for  dead.  She  /vas 
a  German  woman,  unable  to  speak  English,  and 
up  to  this  time,  had  supposed,  from  the  presence 
of  the  scouts,  that  the  fight  was  between  Indians, 
and  that  whatever  the  result,  there  would  be  no 
change  for  the  better  so  far  as  she  was  concerned. 
As  the  captain  entered  the  lodge,  he  saw  this 
woman  in  a  sitting  posture,  nearly  denuded,  with 
the  blood  running  down  her  waist.  When  the 
chief  left  the  tent,  he  had  shot  her  in  the  side, 
aiming  at  her  heart,  but  the  bullet  struck  a  rib, 
glanced,  passed  part  way  around  her  body,  and 
came  out  near  the  spine.  As  the  fight  had  just 
commenced,  Captain  dishing  told  her  by  motions 
and  as  best  he  could,  to  stay  there  and  she  would 
be  taken  care  of,  but  not  comprehending  his 
meaning,  and  now,  for  the  first  time,  realizing 
that  white  men  were  engaged  in  the  battle,  she 
thought,  as  he  started  to  go,  that  she  was  to  be 
left,  and  with  the  most  pitiful  moan  ever  uttered 
by  human  lips,  she  lifted  her  arms,  clasped  him 
around  his  limbs,  and  in  every  possible  way, 
begged  him  not  to  leave  her  with  the  savages. 
Others  passing  by,  he  called  them  in,  and  the, 
woman  was  partially  made  to  understand  that 
she  would  be  cared  for.  He  disengaged  himself 
from  her  embrace,  and  after  the  fight  had  ended, 
returned  and  took  her  to  the  surgeon,  who  saw 
that  her  wounds  were  not  fatal,  that  thev  were 
properly  dressed,  and  provided  for  her  as  best  ho 
could  on  the  return  march  to  Fort  Sedgwick,  op- 
posite where  Julesburg  now  stands,  where  she 
was  placed  in  the  hospital  and  soon  recovered. 
A  few  months  later,  having  no  home  or  friends 
where  she  was  taken  captive,  she  was  married  to 
a  soldier,  who  was  discharged  by  reason  of  expi- 
ration of  service.  The  troops  and  scouts  cap- 
tured in  this  fight,  nearly  six  hundred  head  of 
horses  and  mules,  all  the  tents  of  the  two  tribes, 
an  immense  quantity  of  buffalo  meat  and  robes, 
fifty  guns  of  various  kinds,  with  pistols,  fancy 
Indian  head-dresses,  trinkets,  etc.,  and  $1,900  in 
twenty-dollar  gold  pieces,  which  the  Indians  had 
taken  from  this  German  woman's  father  at  the 
time  she  was  captured.  About  $900  of  this  gold 
was  restored  to  the  woman,  and  if  the  white  sol- 
diers had  been  as  honest  and  generous  as  the 
brave  Pawnee  scouts,  when  the  appeal  for  it;? 
restoration  was  made,  every  lost  dollar  would 


53 


have 
gave 


been  returned.  Of  the  $900,  the  scouts 
up  over  <$tiOJ.  The  seventeen  prisoners 
taken,  included  Tall  Bull's  wile  and  child. 
They  were  first  carried  to  Fort  Sedgwick,  then 
sent  to  Omaha,  where  they  were  kept  under 
guard  for  about  six  weeks,  and  then  sent  to  the 
Whetstone  Agency,  on  the  Missouri  River  above 
Yankton.  The  widowed  squaw  married  a  Sioux 
Indian  at  the  Red  Cloud  Agency,  where  she  is 
now  living. 

frairie  Doffs.  —  The  little  villages  of  prairie 
dogs  which  are  seen  frequently  by  passengers 
from  the  car  windows,  soon  after  leaving  Sidney, 
and  line  the  track  for  many  miles,  are  full  of 
curious  features  of  animal  life.  Ladies  clap 
their  hands,  and  children  shout  with  glee  at 
sight  of  these  cunning  little  creatures.  It  is  a 
pretty  little  animal,  curious  in  shape,  always 
fat,  grayish  red  color,  about  sixteen  inches  in 
length,  and  always  lives  with  a  multitude  of  its 
companions  in  villages.  It  has  a  short,  yelp- 
iug  sound,  which  it  is  very  fond  of  uttering,"  and 
has  some  resemblance  to  the  bark  of  a  young 
puppy.  The  curious  mounds  or  burrows  are  of 
considerable  dimensions,  dug  in  a  sloping  direc- 
tion at  an  angle  of  forty-five  degrees  with  the 
surface  of  the  ground.  After  descending  two  or 
three  yards  they  make  a  sudden  turn  upward, 
and  terminate  in  a  spacious  chamber. 

In  the  same  hole  with  the  prairie  dog  is  found 
frequently  the  burrowing  owl,  and  often  upon  the 
summits  of  their  little  burrows  may  be  seen  the 
solemn  owl  on  one  side  of  the  hole  in  stately 
silence  ;  while  on  the  other  side  is  the  lively 
little  prairie  dog,  squatted  on  the  fatt3st  part 
with  head  bobbed  up,  and  fore  paws  hanging 
down,  ready  at  the  slightest  noise  to  dart  bead- 
first  into  his  hole.  In  some  of  these  holes  rattle- 
snakes have  been  found.  AVhat  harmony  or 
congruity  there  can  be  in  the  lives  of  these  three 
ctiverse  species  of  creatures  to  help  form  a  happv 
iamily,  no  one  can  give  the  reason,  but  all  ac- 
counts seem  to  agree  that  the  stately  owl  and  the 
treacherous  snake  make  their  home  with  the 
little  dogs,  to  abuse  the  hospitality  of  their  four- 
footed  friends  by  devouring  their  young. 

The  scene  presented  by  one  of  these  dog  vil- 
lages is  very  curious.  The  prairie  dog  is  no  less 
inquisitive  than  timid.  On  the  approach  of  an 
intruder,  the  little  creature  gives  a  sharp  yelp  of 
alarm,  and  dives  into  its  burrow,  its  example 
baing  at  once  followed  by  all  its  neighbors.  For 
an  instant  the  village  appears  to  be  deserted; 
but  soon  their  curiosity  gets  the  better  of  their 
prudence,  and  their  inquisitive  little  noses  are 
seen  protruding  from  their  burrows,  to  ascertain 
the  cause  of  the  alarm,  a  curiosity  which  often 
costs  them  dear.  The  prairie  dog  is  remarkably 
tsnacious  ol  life,  and  unless  shot  in  the  head  is 
sure  to  escape  into  its  hole.  The  writer  has 
often  seen  attempts  to  shoot  them  from  the  train 
as  it  passes.  Away  scampers  the  little  dog, 


stomach  so  full  that  it  touches  the  ground,  while 
little  feet  pulled  for  dear  life  for  its  own  hole, 
and  by  its  side  or  under  it  traveled  the  livelier 
bullet,  each  tearing  up  a  stream  of  dust  quicker 
than  the  eye  can  follow.  Attempts  have  been 
made  to  tame  them  as  pets,  but  they  rarely  ever 
live  long,  and  have  too  apt  a  way  of  biting  off 
fingers.  They  live  only  on  the  roots  of  grasses, 
not  being  flesh  eaters. 

Burton,  an  early  traveler  across  the  continent 
in  1861,  was  immensely  interested  in  his  exami- 
nation of  a  prairie  dog  village.  The  Indians  call 
them  "  Wish-ton-wish,"  from  some  slight  resem- 
blance to  this  cry. 

"  Wish-ton-wish  "  was  at  home,  sitting  posted 
like  a  sentinel  upon  the  roof,  and  sunning  him- 
self in  the  mid-day  glow.  It  is  not  easy  to  shoot 
him ;  he  is  out  of  doors  all  day,  but  timid  and 
alert ;  at  the  least  suspicion  of  danger  he  plunges 
with  a  jerking  of  the  tail,  and  a  somersault 
quicker  than  a  shy  young  rabbit,  into  the  nearest 
hole,  peeping  from  the  ground,  and  keeping  up  a 
feeble  little  cry,  (wish-ton-wish  1)  more  like  the 
notes  of  a  bird  than  a  bark.  If  not  killed  out- 
right, he  will  manage  to  wiggle  into  his  home. 
The  villages  are  generally  on  the  brow  of  a  hill, 
near  a  creek  or  pond,  thus  securing  water  with- 
out danger  of  drowning.  The  holes,  which  de- 
scend in  a  spiral  form,  must  be  deep,  and  are 
connected  by  long  galleries,  with  sharp  angles, 
ascents  and  descents,  to  puzzle  the  pursuer.  Lieu- 
tenant Pike  had  140  kettles  of  wat3r  poured 
into  one  without  dislodging  the  occupant.  The 
precincts  of  each  village  are  always  cleared  of 
grass,  upon  which  the  animals  live,  as  they  rarely 
venture  half  a  mile  from  home.  In  the  winter 
time  they  stop  the  mouth  of  their  burrows,  and 
construct  a  deeper  cell,  where  they  live  till  spring 
appeal's. 

The  Indians  and  trappers  eat  the  flesh,  declar- 
ing it  to  be  fatter  and  better  than  that  of  the 
squirrel.  If  the  meat  is  exposed  for  a  night  or 
two  to  the  frost,  all  rankness  will  be  corrected. 
In  the  same  hole  are  found  rattlesnakes,  the 
white  burrowing  owl,  tortoises  and  horned  frogs, 
the  owl  often  gratifying  his  appetite  by  break- 
ing open  the  skull  of  a  young  dog,  with  a  smart 
stroke  of  his  beak." 


Had  a  range  150  miles  long,  a  herd  of  26,000 
head,  and  was  called  the  Great  Cattle  King  of  the 
plains,  and  had  the  "boss  ranche"  of  this  western 
country.  This  ranche  is  in  northern  Colorado.  It 
begins  at  Julesburg,  on  the  L  nion  Pacific  Rail- 
road, and  extends  to  Greeley,  156  miles  west.  Its 
southern  boundary  is  the  South  Platte  River ;  its 
northern,  the  divide,  rocky  and  bluffy,  just  south 
of  the  Lodge  Pole  Creek.  It  has  nearly  the  shape 
of  a  right-angled  triangle,  the  right  angle  being 
at  Greeley.  the  base  line  being  the  South  Platte 
River.  The  streams  flowing  through  it  are,  first, 


55 


the  river  just  named,  Crow  Creek,  and  other 
small  creeks  and  streams  which  take  their  rise 
in  living  springs,  in  and  near  the  bluffs  of  the 
divide  mentioned,  and  flow  in  a  southerly  direc- 
tion into  the  South  Platte  River.  It  includes 
bottom  and  upland  ranges,  and  has  several 
carnps  or  ranches.  The  chief  ranche  is  nearly 
south  ot  Sidney,  and  about  forty  miles  from 
Julesburg.  At  this  ranche  there  are  houses, 
sheds,  stables,  and  corrals,  and  more  than  •  two 
sections  of  land  fenced  in.  All  the  cattle 
bought  by  the  late  Mr.  Iliff  were  rebranded 
and  turned  over  to  him  at  this  place.  Here 
are  the  private  stock  yards,  with  corrals,  chutes, 
pens  and  all  necessary  conveniences  for  handling 
cattle.  It  is  near  the  river,  and  of:  course  has 
fine  watering  facilities,  while  from  the  adjoin- 
ing bottom  lands  plenty  of  hay  may  be  cut 
for  the  use  of  the  horses  employed  in  herd- 
ing. He  cut  no  hay  for  his  cattle ;  they  live 
the  entire  year  on  the  rich  native  grasses  on 
the  range,  and  with  the  exception  of  a  severe 
winter,  now  and  then,  the  percentage  of  loss  is 
not  very  great. 

Mr.  Iliff  was  a  thorough  cattle  man,  and  from 
his  long  experience  had  a  perfect  knowledge  of 
the  business.  He  began  in  1860,  and  during  the 
war  had  government  contracts  to  fill,  in  New 
Mexico  and  other  frontier  territories.  He  sup- 
plied most  of  the  beef  to  the  contractors  who 
built  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad,  and  brought 
immense  herds  of  cattle  from  Texas  and  the 
Indian  Territory  whicli  were  driven  along  the 
line  of  the  road  to  supply  the  army  of  laborers 
with  beef.  He  had  bejn  engaged  in  the  stock 
business  in  Kansas,  New  Mexico,  and  in  Col- 
orado, and  thought  that  this  location  was  admir- 
ably adapted  to  it,  if  the  sheep  men  would  only 
keep  out.  Cattle  and  sheep  will  not  do  well 
on  the  same  range  together.  Success  in  either 
requires  separation.  Mr.  Iliff  purchased  and 
owned  more  than  twenry  thousand  acres  of 
the  range  occupied  which,  of  course,  included 
the  choice  springs  and  watering  places  within  its 
limits. 

He  had  more  than  40,000  head  of  cattle,  of 
all  ages,  sizes  and  conditions.  The  number 
of  calves  branded  on  his  ranche  one  year, 
reached  nearly  5,001)  head,  and  his  sales  of 
three  and  four-year-old  steers  and  fat  cows, 
reached  nearly  the  same  number.  He  realized 
about  $32  per  head,  net,  on  these  sales.  At 
this  rate,  4.000  head  would  bring  the  snug  little 
sum  of  $128,000.  To  take  care  of  this  im- 
mense herd,  he  employed  from  twelve  to  thirty- 
five  men  —  very  few,  usually  in  the  winter 
months,  and  the  largest  number  during  the 
"  round  ups  "  in  the  spring.  During  the  ship- 
ping season  of  1875,  he  had  twenty-four  men 
who  were  employed  in  cutting  out  of  his  herd 
the  four-year-old  steers  that  were  ready  for 
market,  some  fat  three-year-olds,  and  such  fat 


cows  as  were  no  longer  fit  for  breeding  pur- 
poses. While  engaged  in  this  work,  the  same 
men  gather  the  cows  with  unbranded  calves, 
which  they  put  into  the  corrals  near  by,  and 
after  the  calves  are  branded  they  are  turned 
loose  with  the  herd  again.  By  the  introduc- 
tion of  thorough-bred  Durham  bulls,  his  herd 
was  rapidly  graded  up.  In  addition  to  the 
cattle  raised  on  his  ranche,  he  dealt  largely  in 
Texas  and  Indian  cattle,  and  advertised  for 
20,000  head  of  Texas  cattle  to  be  delivered  on 
his  ranche  during  the  driving  months  of  1876. 
These  cattle  must  be  yearlings,  two  and  three- 
year-old  steers,  and  for  them  he  had  to  pay 
$T,  $  11  and  $15  per  head,  respectively.  This  is, 
at  least,  10  per  cent,  advance  on  the  prices  paid 
for  the  same  kind  of  cattle  in  1875,  and  indi- 
cates their  growing  scarcity  in  Texas.  Oregon 
and  Montana  cattle,  are  now  beginning  to  come 
East,  and  100,000  head  were  driven  down  for 
the  season  of  1880  to  various  points. 

Mr.  Iliff  estimated  the  increase  of  cattle  from 
his  home  herd — outside  of  purchases  and  sale? — 
to  be  about  70  per  cent,  per  year,  and  about 
equally  divided  as  to  gender.  He  did  not  sepa- 
rate his  bulls  from  ihe  herd,  but  allowed  them  to 
remain  with  it  the  entire  year.  In  this  part  of 
his  management,  we  believe  he  made  a  mistake, 
as  the  percentage  of  increase  would  be  much 
larger  if  no  calves  were  born  during  the  severe 
winter  and  spring  months  of  each  year.  The 
loss  in  calves  at  these  times  must  be  very  great. 
The  shipping  points  for  his  ranche  were  at  Pine 
Bluffs  and  Julesburg,  on  the  Union  Pacific,  and 
at  Deers'  Trail  on  the  Kansas  Pacific.  The 
most  of  his  cattle,  however,  were  shipped  over  the 
first-mentioned  road. 

Lest  any  one  should  come  to  the  conclusion 
that  this  business  is  all  profit,  and  that  the  ex- 
penses and  losses  do  not  amount  to  much,  let  us 
further  state  that  Mr.  Iliff's  policy  was  to  keep 
his  expenses  as  low  as  possible,  having  the  keeping 
and  safety  of  his  cattle  constantly  in  view.  In 
1875,  the  expenses  of  herding,  cutting  hay  for 
horses,  etc.,  amounted  to  less  than  $15,000.  But 
the  loss  'S  from  thefts  and  death,  some  years,  are 
frightful.  The  winter  of  1871-2  was  very 
severe.  There  were  deep  snows  over  his  range 
that  remained  on  the  ground  a  long  time,  and 
the  storms  were  incessant.  In  the  midst  of  these 
storms,  Mr.  Iliff  visited  the  ranche,  and  found  his 
cattle  literally  dying  by  thousands.  On  the 
islands  in  South  Platte  River,  he  found  and 
drove  off  into  the  sand-hills  and  bluffs  on  the 
south  side,  after  great  exertion,  some  2,700  head, 
and  of  this  number  less  than  half  were  recovered. 
Their  bleaching  bones  now  whiten  the  plains  in 
the  vicinity  where  they  were  frozen  and  starved 
to  death,  and  those  finally  recovered  were  found 
in  two  different  States  and  four  different  Terri- 
tories in  the  Union.  More  than  $20,000  were 
expended  in  efforts  to  find  them ;  nor  was  this 


56 


all.  It  was  impossible  to  tell,  for  a  number  of 
years,  how  great  the  loss  had  been.  His  books 
showed  more  than  5,000  head  unaccounted  for. 
Xo  trace  of  them,  beyond  skeletons,  could  be 
found.  At  last,  in  the  spring  of  1874,  this  num- 
ber was  charged  to  profit  and  loss  account,  and 
the  books  balanced  for  a  new  start.  Could  they 
have  been  sold  the  fall  previous,  they  would 
have  averaged  at  least  $18  per  head,  and  at  this 
rate  would  have  amounted  to  $30,000. 

It  will  thus  be  seen  that  the  cattle  business  is 
not  all  profit ;  that  it  is  liable  to  losses  the  same 
as  any  othsr  busi 


ness.  Taking 
the  years  togeth- 
er, with  ordinary 
care  and  judg- 
ment, the  busi- 
ness will  pay 
large  profits  and 
prove  a  desirable 
investment.  We 
would  not,  how- 
ever, advise 
every  man  to 
undertake  it.  It 
is  a  business 
that  must  be 
learned,  and  to 
succeed  in  it 
msn  must  have 
expsrience,  cap- 
ital, and  a  good 
range.  Mr.  lliff 
had  all  of  these, 
and  hence  met 
with  correspond- 
ing success. 
The  26,000 
head  he  had, 
he  thought 
on  an  aver- 
age,  were  worth 
$18  par  head. 
This  rats  would 
place  the  capital 
he  has  invested 
in  catth  at  the 
sum  of  $158,030. 
In  addition  to 
this  he  has  160 
head  of  horses 


but  with  care  and  good  management  we  see  no 
reason  why  he  should  not,  in  nine  cases  out  of 
ten,  win  every  time.  Let  the  facts  speak  for 
themselves.  Ordinary  men  can't  raise  a  half 
million  dollars,  every  day,  lor  such  an  invest- 
ment, and  if  they  could  command  that  amount, 
very  few  would  desire  a  stock  ranche  and  the 
cattle  business. 

tut  II  whackers. — A  curious  character  of  over- 
land life,  when  the  plains  were  covered  with 
teams,  and  long  trains  of  freight-wagons,  was  the 
bullwhacker.  He  is  in  size  and  shape  usually  of 

very  large  pro- 
portions ;  very 
strong,  long,  un- 
kempt hair,  and 
face  covered 
with  the  stiffest 
of  beards.  Eight 
or  ten  yoke  of 
oxen  were  usu- 
ally attached  to 
each  wagon,  and 
often  two  wag- 
ons were  doubled 
up ;  i.  e.,  the 
tongue  of  the 
second  wagon 
passed  under  the 
body  of  the  wag- 
on just  before  it, 
and  then  secure- 
ly fastened.  By 
the  side  of  his 
wagon  hang  his 
trusty  axe  and 
ready  rifle,  and 
on  the  tops  of  the 
wagons  were 
spread  the  red 
blankets  used 
for  their  cover  at 
night.  Of  the 
bullwhacker,  it 
is  said  that  his 
oat  It  and  his  «•//?/) 
are  both  the 
longest  ever 
known.  T  h  e 
handle  of  the 
ordinary  whip  is 
not  more  than 


THE  BULLWHACKER  OF  THE  PLAINS. 

and  mules,  worth  at  least  $10,000,  which  are  used,  j  three  feet  in  length,  but  the  lash,  which  is  of 
principally,  in  herding,  together  with  wagons, 
horses,  fences,  corrals,  sheds,  stables,  mowing- 
machines,  tools  and  implements,  and  the  large 
track  of  land  before  mentioned.  Half  a  mil- 
lion dollars  is  a  low  estimate  to  name  as  the  sum 
he  had  invested  in  this  business,  and  yet  from  its 
very  nature  he  was  liable  to  lose  half  of  it  in  the 
next  year.  Like  other  business  ventures,  if  a 


man  goes  into  it,  of  course  he  takes  the  chances, 


braided  rawhide,  is  seldom  less  than  twenty  feet 
long.  From  the  wooden  handle,  the  lash  swells 
gradually  out  for  about  six  feet,  vrhere  it  is  nearly 
ten  inches  in  circumference  (the  point  called  the 
"belly"):  from  here  it  tapers  to  within  a  foot  of 
the  end.  which  terminates  in  the  form  of  a  rib- 
bon-shaped thong.  This  is  called  by  some  face- 
tiously a  "persuader."  and  under  its  influence  it 
will  make  the  ox-team  progress  at  the  magic 


rate  of  twenty  miles  per  day.  The  effect  on  a 
refractory  ox  _s  quite  forcible.  The  lazy  ox  occa- 
sionally receives  a  reminder  in  the  shape  of  a 
whack  in  the  flank,  that  causes  him  to  double  up 
as  if  seared  with  a  red-hot  iron. 

The  bullwhacker  is  universally  regarded  as  the 
champion  swearer  of  America.  He  is  more  pro- 
fane than  the  mate  of  a  Mississippi  River  packet, 
and  his  own  word  is  good  to  the  effect  that  he 
'•kin  drink  more  whi*ky.n  The  wiiter  who  heard 
this,  says  that  "  accompanying  this  statement 
were  some  oj  the  most  asujundiny  oaths  that  ever  f>  il 
on  the  ear." 

General  Sherman  humorously  tells  a  story  in 
defence  of  the  extremely  profane  mule-driver 
who  kept  his  trains  so  well  closed  up  during  the 
Jong  march  ;s  of  the  army  under  his  command.  It 
is  to  this  effect :  "  One  of  the  members  of  a 
freighting  firm  in  St.  Louis  desired  to  discourage 
the  continual  blasphemy  of  the  bullwhackers  in 
their  employ.  Orders  were  accordingly  issued 
to  their  train-masters  to  discharge  any  man  that 
should  curse  the  cattle.  The  wagon-masters  were 
selected  more  for  their  piety  than  for  any  exten- 
sive knowledge  of  their  duties  in  the  handling  of 
trains.  The  outfit  had  not  proceeded  more  than 
a  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  before  it  was  stuck 
fast.  A  messenger  was  dispatched  to  the  firm 
with  the  information  that  the  cattle  would  not 
pull  a  pound  unless  they  were  cursed  ax  u*ual. 
Permission  to  do  this  was  requested  and  granted, 
after  which  the  train  proceeded  to  Salt  Lake,  to 
which  place  good  time  was  made." 

The  bullwhacker  is  astonishingly  accurate  with 
'iis  lash.  One  of  his  favorite  pastimes  is  to  cut  a 
coin  from  the  top  of  a  stick  stuck  loosely  into  the 
earth.  If  the  coin  is  knocked  off  without  dis- 
turbing the  stake,  it  is  his;  if  the  stake  is  dis- 
turbed, the  thrower  loses  the  value  of  the  coin. 
A  curious  incident  is  told  of  a  bullwhacker,  not- 
ed for  the  accuracy  with  which  he  throws  his 
lash.  He  bet  a  comrade  a  pint  of  whisky  that 
he  could  cut  the  cloth  on  the  back  of  his  panta- 
loons without  touching  the  skin  beneath.  The 
bet  was  accepted.  The  individual  put  himself 
in  position,  stooping  over  to  give  fair  chance. 
The  blow  was  delivered  carefully  but  in  earnest, 
and  thereon  ensued  the  tallest  jump  ever  put  on 
record.  The  owner  being  minus  a  portion  of  his 
skin,  as  well  as  a  large  fragment  of  his  breeches, 
and  the  bullwhacker's  sorrowful  cry,  '•  Thunder, 
I've  lost  the  whisky." 

Chfippell, — 387.4  miles  from  Omaha.  Eleva- 
tion 3,702  feet.  It  is  a  side  track  with  section- 
housj  near  by.  Trains  meet  and  pass  here,  but 
passenger  trains  do  not  stop  unless  signaled. 

Lo(tf/e  Pole — has  an  elevation  of  3.800  feet, 
and  is  396.5  miles  west  of  Omaha.  The  creek 
from  which  this  station  is  named,  rises  in  the 
Black  Hills  of  Wyoming,  west  of  Cheyenne,  and 
is  fed  by  springs  and  numerous  small  streams 
near  its  source.  It  generally  has  water  in  its 


channel  the  entire  year.  In  occasional  places  it 
sinks  into  the  sand,  runs  a  distance  under-ground, 
and  then  reappears  on  the  surface  again.  The 
valley  of  the  Lodge  Pole  is  quite  narrow — the 
bluffs  on  either  side  at  times  approaching  near 
the  track.  The  whole  region  of  country  upon 
which  we  have  now  entered,  is  covered  with 
buffalo  grass,  and  affords  both  winter  and  sum- 
mer grazing  for  immense  herds  of  cattle  and 
flocks  of  sheep.  Stockmen  claim  that  both  cattle 
and  sheep  will  do  better  in  this  region  than  far- 
ther east,  for  the  reason  that  the  native  grasses 
are  more  nutritious,  and  that  there  is  less  snow 
in  the  winter. 

(  'o/foii, — 406.5  miles  from  Omaha,  and  4,022 
feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  simply  a  side  track, 
named  in  honor  of  Francis  Colton  of  Galesburg, 
111.,  and  formerly  general  ticket  agent  of  the 
road. 

Sidney — is  414.2  miles  from  the  Missouri 
River,  and  4,073  feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  the 
end  of  a  sub-division  of  the  road,  and  has  a 
roundhouse  and  machinery  adequate  for  making 
minor  repairs.  The  railroad  reached  and  passed 
here  in  August  1867.  The  rocky  bluffs  which 
jut  up  close  to  the  town,  were  quarried  by  the 
railroad  men,  and  stone  obtained  for  various  con- 
struction purposes.  It  is  now  a  regular  eating- 
station,  where  all  passenger  trains  stop  for  break- 
fast and  supper.  The  railroad  hotel  is  kept  by 
J.  B.  Rumsey,  and  passengers  may  be  assured  of 
good  meals,  with  plenty  of  time  to  eat,  as  the 
train  stops  thirty  minutes.  Sidney  is  the  county- 
seat  of  Cheyenne  County,  Neb.  The  military 
post  here  known  as  Sidney  Barracks,  was  laid 
out  in  18G7,  and  built  in  January,  1868,  by 
Colonel  Porter.  The  town  has  several  stores, 
hotels,  saloons  and  general  outfitting  establish- 
ments. It  is  the  nearest  railroad  point  to  the 
Black  Hills,  it  being  only  185  miles  by  actual 
measurement  to  Harney's  Peak,  and  the  adjacent 
gold  fields,  over  an  excellent  wagon  road,  with 
wood  and  water  convenient  of  access.  It  has 
become  a  great  outfitting  depot  for  the  Black 
Hills.  A  daily  stage  line  and  freight  train  now 
run  regularly,  reaching  Custer  City  in  thirty 
hours,  and  Deadwood  in  forty-eight  hours.  It 
is  the  point  where  large  quantities  of  military 
and  Indian  supplies  are  shipped  to  the  agen- 
cies and  military  posts  adjoining.  It  also  lias 
a  weekly  newspaper.  The  Sidney  Telegrn/ih,  which 
is  quite  an  enterprising  sheet.  The  town  still 
his  the  characteristics  of  a  frontier  place,  and 
not  a  small  number  of  roughs  have  died  here 
"with  their  boots  on."  In  December,  1875,  a 
man  was  found  hanging  to  a  telegraph  pole  one 
morning,  who  had  shot  another  in  cold  blood, 
and  without  provocation.  He  was  taken  from 
the  jail  and  jailer  by  masked  men  and  strung  up 
as  aforesaid.  The  town  was  begun  about  the 
time  the  railroad  passed  through.  D.  Carrigan, 
now  probate  judge  of  the  county,  and  James  and 


68 


Charles  Moore  being  the  first  settlers.  James 
Moore  was  the  post  trader  here  for  a  long  time. 
He  is  now  dead.  In  the  time  of  the  Pony  Ex- 
press he  made  the  remarkable  trip  of  280  miles 
in  fourteen  hours  and  three-quarters.  The  town 
has  had  trouble  with  Indians,  and  was  once 
attacked  by  them,  as  related  in  another  place. 
Even  after  the  trains  were  running  regularly,  the 
Indians  would  seek  for  revenge  in  ditching  them 
and  in  killing  all  the  employes  they  could. 
Section-men  always  went  armed,  ready  to  defend 
themselves  in  case  of  attack.  In  April  of  1869, 
the  Indians  attacked  two  section-men  who  had 
gone  to  the  creek  for  water,  and  one  of  them, 
Daniel  Davidson,  was  killed — his  body  being  liter- 
ally filled  with  arrows.  Right  north  of  the  town, 
where  the  traveler  can  see  a  small  column  of 
stones,  was  an  old  fort  or  breastwork,  the  re- 
mains of  which  are  still  visible,  which  was 
used  as  a  place  of  defense  in  case  of  Indian 
raids.  A  bridge  across  the  North  Platte  River, 
on  the  road  to  Spotted  Tail's  Agency,  would 
largely  increase  the  trade  and  importance  of 
the  town.  In  1875,  the  assessed  valuation  of 
Cheyenne  County  was  about  $  1,250,000.  There 
are  a  large  number  of  stockmen  in  the  county. 

Beautiful  Cloud  Effects. — Artists  and  all 
travelers,  as  they  get  nearer  and  nearer  to  the 
summit  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  will  often  have 
fine  opportunities  to  see  some  magnificent  cloud 
effects.  The  most  glorious  sunset  ever  witnessed 
by  the  writer,  was  one  beautiful  evening  in  pass- 
ing down  the  line  of  the  Denver  Pacific  Railroad 
from  Cheyenne.  Long's  Peak,  grand  in  its  sub- 
limity of  snow,  was  surrounded  with  a  collection 
of  clouds,  so  poised  that  the  rays  of  the  setting 
sun  showed  us  each  side  of  them.  On  the  hither 
side  the  fleecy  clouds  were  lighted  up  with  the 
grandest  of  crimson  and  golden  colors ;  in  their 
midst  opened  little  circular  or  oval  windows, 
which,  letting  light  upon  their  upper  portions, 
seemed  to  be  of  molten  silver ;  while  in  their  depth 
of  deep  azure  blue— more  beautiful  than  we  can  de- 
scribe— there  seemed  to  glow  the  intense  colors 
and  reflections  from  the  bosom  of  a  mountain  lake. 
Every  few  minutes  the  clouds,  at  our  distance  from 
them,  changed  their  position,  and  new  colors, 
forms,  and  rays  came  and  went,  and  when  at  last 
the  sun  itself  dropped  slowly  behind  the  very  point 
of  the  peak,  and  it  shone  out  in  startling  clear- 
ness with  the  grand  display  of  rainbow-colored 
clouds  above ;  the  sight  seemed  like  a  heavenly 
vision.  The  editors  of  the  New  York  and  East- 
ern Editorial  Excursion  Party  of  1875,  who  wit- 
nessed the  scene,  expressed  but  one  sentiment  of 
admiration,  that  it  was  far  the  most  superb 
cloud  and  sunset  scene  ever  witnessed.  Such 
scenes  are  very  frequent,  and  exceedingly  capti- 
vating to  those  who  have  a  true  artist's  eye  and 
appreciation  of  colors  and  effects. 

An  English  traveler  (to  whom  beautiful  sun- 
sets are  unknown)  when  once  traveling  from 


Ogalalla  toward  Laramie,  over  the  plains,  says, 
"  As  we  journeyed,  the  sun  approached  the  hori- 
zon, and  the  sky  and  numerous  clouds  assumed 
columns  of  strange  and  wonderful  beauty.  The 
'  azure  vault '  itself  was  of  all  possible  shades  o 
light  green,  and  also  of  clear  light  blue;  some  of 
the  clouds  were  of  solid  masses  of  the  deepest 
indigo,  while  a  few  were  black,  some  were  pur- 
ple, and  others  faintly  tinged  with  crimson  and 
gold.  Two  days  before,  1  had  witnessed  cloud 
effects  almost  equally  fine.  There  is  no  monot- 
ony i.i  the  glorious  dawns  or  beautiful  sunsets, 
which  are  the  rule  on  these  elevated  plains,  and 
which  go  far  to  relieve  the  tameness  of  the  land- 
scape. 

"  As  evening  approached,  on  my  journey  to 
Laramie,  and  I  neared  my  destination  on  the 
great  mountain  plains,  I  saw  hovering  over  one 
of  the  snow-capped  peaks,  a  richly  colored  cloud, 
so  curious  in  foim,  and  withal  so  perfect  that  it 
might  well  have  been  considered  a  miraculous 
omen,  in  the  superstitious  days  of  old.  It  was  a 
most  accurate  representation  of  a  long  waving 
ostrich  plume,  in  varying  tints  of  crimson  and 
purple  and  gold ;  I  gazed  on  it  with  pleasure  and 
wonder  till  it  faded  away." 

Sunset  in  a  Storm. — The  Earl  of  Dunraven, 
in  an  account  of  his  travels,  mentions  with  won- 
der these  extraordinary  sunset  scenes  :  "Just  be- 
fore sundown,  the  gorgeous  flaunting  streamers 
of  bright  yellow  and  red  that  were  suddenly  shot 
out  across  a  lurid  sky  were  most  wonderful  to 
behold.  If  the  vivid  colors  were  transferred  to 
canvas  with  a  quarter  of  their  real  brilliancy, 
the  eje  would  be  distressed  by  the  representa- 
tion, and  the  artist  accused  of  gross  exaggera- 
tion and  of  straining  after  outrageous  effects. 

"  These  stormy  American  sunsets  are  startling, 
barbaric,  even  savage  in  their  brilliancy  of  tone, 
in  their  profusion  of  color,  in  their  great  streaks 
of  red  and  broad  flashes  of  yellow  fire ;  startling, 
but  never  repulsive  to  the  senses,  or  painful 
to  the  eye.  For  a  time  the  light  .'hone  most 
brilliantly  all  over  the  western  hemisphere, 
breaking  through  a  confused  mass  of  dazzling 
purple-edged  clouds,  massed  against  a  glowing, 
burnished  copper  sky,  darting  out  bviglit  arrows 
through  the  rifts  and  rents,  and  striking  full 
upon  the  mountain  top. 

"  But  not  long  did  this  glorious  effulgence  last. 
The  soul  of  the  evening  soon  passed  away ;  as 
the  sun  sank,  the  colors  fled.  The  mountains 
became  of  a  ghastly,  livid  greenish  color,  and  as 
the  faint  rose  light  paled,  faded  slowly  upward 
and  vanished,  it  really  looked  as  though  the  life 
were  ebbing  away,  and  the  dull  gray  death-hue 
spreading  over  the  face  of  a  dying  man." 

Sunset  Scene  on  Mount  tf  as/iburne. — 
The  Earl  of  Dunraven  ascending,  in  the  summer 
of  1874,  the  summit  of  Mt.  Washburne  was  re- 
warded at  sunset  with  a  scene  of  extraordinary 
magnificence,  which  he  relates  as  folk.va  .  "  The 


sun  was  getting  very  low,  and  the  valleys  were 
already  steeped  in  shade.  To  the  east  all  was 
dark,  but  in  the  western  heavens  long  naming 
streaks  of  yellow  were  flashing  across  a  lowering 
sky.  The  masses  of  black  clouds  were  glowing 
red  with  an  angry  flush.  The  clear  white  light 
of  a  watery  sun  had  changed  into  broad  streaks 
of  flaunting  saffron.  Across  all  the  hemisphere, 
opposed  to  it,  the  setting  orb  was  shaking  out 
the  red  and  yellow  folds  of  its  banners,  challeng- 
ing the  forces  of  the  storm,  which  was  marshal- 
ing on  the  horizon  its  cloud  warriors  resplend- 
ent in  burnished  gold. 

"  The  sun  sank  behind  a  cloud,  and  I  turned 
away  to  descend;  but  as  we  went,  the  sun, 
though  invisible  to  us,  broke  through  some  hid- 
den rift  in  the  clouds,  and  shone  out  bright  and 
strong,  splashing  its  horizontal  rays  full  against 
the  opposite  slop3,  and  deluging  the  lower  por- 
tions of  tin  valley  with  a  flood  of  intense  cherry- 
colored  lurid  light.  The  hills  reddened  as  if 
beat  upon  by  tha  full  glare  of  a  great  furnace. 
It  was  a  sight  mist  glorious  to  see.  The  beauty 
of  it  held  us  and  forced  us  to  stop.  The  glow 
did  not  gradually  ripan  into  fullness,  but  sud- 
denly, and  in  all  its  intensity,  struck  upon  a 
prominent  ridge,  lighting  up  the  crags  and  cliffs, 
and  even  the  rocks  and  stones,  in  all  their  de- 
tails, and  than  by  dagreas  it  extended  and  spread 
on  either  side  over  the  foot-hills,  bringing  out 
the  projecting  slopas  and  shoulders  from  deep 
gloom  into  clear  light,  and  throwing  back  the 
valley  into  blackest  shade.  Every  rock  and 
precipice  seem  id  closs  at  hand,  and  shone  and 
glowed  with  such  radiance  that  you  could  trace 
tha  very  rents  and  crevices  in  the  cliff  faces,  and 
mark  the  pine  trees  clinging  to  the  sides,  while 
in  comparison  the  deep  recesses  of  the  chasms 
and  canons  seemad  to  extend  for  miles  back  into 
dark  shadow.  As  the  sun  sank,  so  rose  the 
light,  rushing  upward,  surging  over  the  hills  in 
a  wave  of  crimson  mist,  really  beautiful  to  be- 
hold, and  illuminating  the  great  bulk  of  the 
range,  while  the  peaks  were  still  darkly  rearing 
thair  sullen  heads  above  the  tide,  and  the  valleys 
were  all  filled  with  gray  vapors.  At  last  the 
glare  caught  the  mist,  and  in  an  instant  trans- 
formed it  from  gray  cloud  into  a  gauzy,  half- 
transparent  veil,  light,  airy,  delicate  exceed- 
ingly, in  color  like  the  inner  petals  of  the  rose. 
Then,  as  the  sun  dropped  suddenly,  the  light 
flashed  upon  the  summit,  the  peaks  leaped  into 
startling  life,  and  the  darkness  fell." 

Broivnson. — Simply  a  side  track.  Elevation 
4,200  feet  above  the  sea.  Distance  from  Omaha, 
423.2  miles.  The  station  was  named  after  a  for- 
mer general  freight  agent  of  the  Union  Pacific. 
From  Sidney,  and  in  this  vicinity,  the  bluffs  are 
rugged,  and  look  like  fortifications  or  the  old 
castles  that  we  read  about.  They  are  simply 
indications  of  the  grand  scenery  which  is  to 
follow. 


Potter. — 433.1  miles  from  Omaha.  Elevation 
4,370  feet.  It  is  a  telegraph  station.  West  of 
Potter  you  cross  the  bed  of  a  dry  creek,  which 
leads  into  the  Lodge  Pole. 

J)iic. — Another  side  track,  at  -which  pas- 
senger trains  do  not  stop.  There  is  a  fine 
stock  ranche  near  by,  and  the  grazing  in 
this  vicinity  is  excellent.  It  is  442.3  miles 
from  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  road,  with  an 
elevation  of  4,530  feet. 

Antelope. — 451.3  miles  from  Omaha.  Eleva- 
tion, 4,712  feet.  A  telegraph  and  coal  station, 
with  side  tracks  and  section-house.  In  Novem- 
ber, 1875,  the  Indians,  who  have  a  liking  for 
good  and  fast  horses,  equal  to  that  of  Bonner, 
the  Neio  York  Ledger  man,  went  to  the  ranche  of 
Mr.  Jones,  a  Kentuckian,  about  twenty  miles 
south  of  this  station,  and  stole  some  forty  head 
of  blooded  horses  and  mares  which  he  had 
there  for  breeding  purposes.  They  are  supposed 
— believed — to  have  gone  north,  and  if  Uncle 
Sam's  Indian  agents  would  withhold  rations  from 
the  tribe  until  they  were  brought  back,  or  make 
a  thorough  search  for  them,  they  could  undoubted- 
ly be  found.  Many  of  the  animals  were  thorough- 
breds, and  very  valuable.  Here  is  another  viola- 
tion of  the  Sioux  treaty.  Mr.  Jones  will  have  to 
pocket  his  loss,  while  Uncle  Sam  will,  of  course, 
pocket  the  insult.  Antelope  is  the  home  of  some 
old  hunters,  and  if  the  traveler  desires  to  hear 
their  experiences,  let  him  stop  a  day  and  inter- 
view Jack  Evans,  who  has  a  rant  he  here,  and  Mr. 
Goff,  who  lias  been  engaged  in  the  business  some 
fourteen  years. 

Landscape  of  the  Colorado  Plains. — 
There  is  a  charm  in  life  on  the  great  plains.  To 
one  who  visits  it  for  the  first  time,  it  seems 
lonely  indeed,  and  yet  it  is  never  wearisome. 

Now  come  great  rolling  uplands  of  enormous 
sweep,  then  boundless  grassy  plains,  and  all 
the  grandeur  of  vast  monotony  and  desolation. 
Sometimes  the  grand  distances  are  broken  by 
rugged  buttes  and  bluffs.  As  they  rise  in  sight, 
the  traveler  is  as  eager  in  his  curiosity  as  the 
sea  voyager  just  catching  his  first  view  of  the  dis- 
tant shore.  Over  all  these  plains  there  is  a 
sparkling,  enthusiasm-giving  atmosphere,  crisp, 
strong,  magnetic,  and  a  never-failing  breeze; 
even  in  the  hottest  days,  or  portions  of  the  day, 
the  air  is  bracing,  and  rarely  ever  is  the  sky  long 
cloudless. 

That  vastness  of  solitude,  boundless  plains, 
and  boundless  sky.  that  stretch  of  blue,  that 
waste  of  brown,  never  a  tree,  river,  bird,  or  ani- 
mal, home  or  life  of  any  nature,  who  can  de- 
scribe the  sensations,  which  are  so  overpowering. 

As  you  approach  the  mountains,  the  Colorado 
plains  assume  more  verdure,  as  they  are  better 
watered  by  the  little  streams  from  the  foot-hills, 
or  bedewed  by  the  mountain  showers.  In  sum- 


mer  time  the  landscape  is  green,  and  the  plains 
covered  with  flowers,  while  in  autumn,  with  the 
yellow  of  the  prairie  grass,  the  flowers  ever  stay, 
new  ones  coming  as  old  ones  disappear.  The 
sunflower  is  the  most  profuse  of  all  the  species  of 
vegetation  that  spring  up  wherever  the  soil  is 
opened.  For  thousands  of  miles,  wherever  the 
railroad  or  a  wagon  route  has  made  its  way 
across  the  country,  there  spring  up  parallel  rows 
of  the  ever-living  sunflower.  In  the  eastern  por- 
tions of  the  plains  of  Nebraska  and  Kansas,  near 
the  Missouri  River,  may  be  seen  square  miles  of 
sunflowers,  7  to  9  feet  high ;  as  we  travel  farther 
west,  they  gradually  dwindle  until  they  are,  in 
Colorado,  only  3  to  9  inches  in  height,  the  oddest 
little  plant  in  nature,  yet  perfect  in  shape  and 
growth. 


years  yet  to  come,  to  be  only  the  grazing-field  of 
thousands  of  buffalo  or  herds  of  cattle.  Water 
is  scarce,  irrigation  is  impossible,  rains  uncer- 
tain, and  in  many  parts  the  soil  is  full  of  soda 
and  alkali.  The  western  march  of  settlement 
practically  ends  at  the  one  hundredth  meridian 
of  longitude — Xorth  Platte. 

Coyotes.  —  Pioneers,  Indians  and  drivers, 
unite  in  the  most  thrilling  exclamations  of  their 
detestations  of  this,  the  meanest  of  the  animal 
tribe  that  infest  the  plains.  Just  after  twilight, 
if  you  happen  to  be  encamped  on  the  plains,  you 
will  hear  not  far  off  the  quick  bark  of  a  single 
coyote.  This  is  the  first  call,  the  bugle  cry.  Then 
come  answers,  and  the  pack  of  wolves  assemble 
rapidly;  and  just  as  darkness  closes  down,  you 
have  but  one  enjoyment  left,  to  listen  to  the  most 


Into  this  vast  area  of  plains,  which  reaches 
from  east  to  west  500  miles,  and  north  to  south 
1,01)0  miles,  there  can  be  poured  nearly  all  the 
population  of  Europe  and  Asia.  Swallowing  up 
by  the  thousands,  the  plains,  with  open  month, 
wait  with  insatiate  appetite  for  more.  Into  this 
area  can  be  put  the  whole  of  India.  It  is  twice 
as  large  as  Hindostan,  and  as  large  as  the  whole 
of  the  United  States  east  of  Chicago. 

Agriculture  is  certain  as  far  west  as  the  three 
hundredth  mile  from  the  Missouri  River;  from 
thence  westward,  to  the  immediate  vicinity  of 
the  mountains,  no  crops  can  at  present  be  raised. 
This  reach  of  200  miles  or  more  is,  for  many 


dismal  of  howling  matches.  As  eacli  new  coiner 
arrives  he  is  welcomed  with  a  howl.  Each  howl 
is  short,  and  by  the  band  there  seems  to  be  a 
chosen  few  who  execute  them  in  proper  manner, 
with  all  the  variations.  After  these  few  have 
performed  some  of  their  most  "  striking  airs,"  a 
silence  of  a  few  moments'  duration  follows,  and 
then  the  whole  band  breaks  out  with  the  most  un- 
earthly noises,  which  are  second  to  no  other  noises 
of  plains  and  mountains  Kit  Carson  once  said  of 
these  howls,  "that  it  was  only  a  little  dispute  as 
to  which  coyote  had,  as  the  winner  of  the  match, 
the  right  to  take  the  stakes  (steaks)."  A  trav- 
eler says  of  them  :  "  It  is  quite  impossible  to  do 


61 


full  justice  to  this  wolf  music.  There  is  no 
racket  known  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  more 
civilized  sections  of  our  country  which  will  com- 
pare with  it.  All  the  felines  in  the  neighbor- 
hood would  not  make  a  noise  which  would  begin 
to  equal  wolf  music."  Strange  as  it  may  seem, 
the  rough  pioneer  esteems  this  music  his  sweetest 
lullaby,  for  as  one  of  the  old  "  roftgh  and  readies" 
says :  "  If  any  redskin  should  take  it  under  his 
scalp  to  look  about  camp,  every  cuss  of  them 
coyotes  would  shut  up  his  trap  and  wake  the  fel- 
lows up  with  the  quiet."  So  long  as  the  coyote 
cries  there  is  no  danger  from  Indians — the 
moment  he  ceases,  danger  is  near — so  the  pioneer 
esteems  their  music  his  best  lullaby,  and  their 
bark  his  safety.  Occasionally  the  pack,  toward 
early  morning,  will  make  a  raid  into  the 
traveler's  camp,  and  grab  any  edibles  or  pieces 
left  within  reach;  even  sometimes  seizing  the 
very  haversack  upon  which  the  sleeper's  head 
is  pillowed,  but  seldom  ever  touching  the  per- 
sons of  the  campers.  As  morning  approaches, 
they  retire  to  a  safe  distance  from  camp,  and 
squatted  on  their  haunches  like  dogs,  wait  till 
the  party  leaves. 

The  plains  men  have  an  old  saying,  "  That  the 
coyotes  can  smell  a  Sta'es  fetter,  and  then  you 
will  not  see  a  coyote  anywhere  within  sight  of 
camp."  The  explanation  for  which  is  supposed 
to  be  as  follows,  given  also  by  the  old  plains  men : 
"  States  fellers  shoots  at  any  live  thing  as 
jumps  in  their  sight,  whether  it  is  any  'count  to 
them  or  no." 

Adams.  —  A  side  track  457.3  miles  from 
Omaha;  elevation  4,781  feet.  The  country  here 
is  considerably  broken,  and  between  the  bluffs 
on  either  side  huge  boulders  crop  out. 

Bushnell, —  463.2  miles  from  Omaha,  and 
4,860  feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  simply  a  side 
track  with  water  tank.  In  coming  up  this  val- 
ley the  railroad  crosses  the  Lodge  Pole  Creek,  or 
its  little  branches,  several  times.  Near  Bushnell 
is  a  trestle  bridge  across  the  creek. 

Hailstorms. — This  region  of  country  is  fre- 
quently, in  summer,  visited  with  hailstorms  and 
cloud-bursts.  In  the  summer  of  1875,  a  train  was 
overtaken  by  one  of  these  hailstorms,  and  not  a 
whole  pane  of  glass  was  left  in  the  side  of  the 
cars  toward  the  storm.  The  glass  in  skylights 
on  the  top  of  the  cars  was  broken,  and  many  of 
the  hailstones,  as  large  as  a  man's  fist,  bounded 
through  the  cars  on  the  opposite  side.  The 
wooden  sides  ^of  the  cars  were  dented,  and  the 
sheet-iron  casing  of  the  engine-boiler  looked  as 
though  it  had  passed  through  a  violent  case  of 
the  small-pox.  When  these  cloud-bursts  occur, 
the  drops  of  rain  seem  as  large  as  walnuts,  and 
come  so  fast  that  the  entire  surface  of  the  ground 
is  covered — the  surplus  water  not  having  time  to 
run  off.  In  such  storms  the  road  is  liable  to 
washouts,  and  great  care  is  necessary  in  the  run- 
ning of  trains  to  avoid  accidents. 


Bushnell  is  the  last  station  in  Nebraska.  Just 
across  the  line,  between  it  and  Wyoming,  comes 

Pine  Bluffs, — 473.2  miles  from  Omaha ;  ele- 
vation 5,026  feet.  The  little  station  takes  its 
name  from  the  stunted  pines  along  the  bluffs. 
Pine  timber  once  was  plenty  here,  but  it  disap- 
peared when  the  road  was  built.  It  is  the  great 
trail  and  crossing  point  for  Indians  passing  from 
the  buffalo  grounds  on  the  Republican  to  Horse 
Creek  and  North  Platte  River.  Was  several 
times  attacked  by  Indians  during  construction  of 
road,  several  were  killed  and  large  amounts  of 
stock  stolen.  It  is  now  the  head-quarters  of 
Judge  Tracy's  cattle  ranch e,  and  several  carloads 
of  cattle  are  shipped  each  year.  Muddy  Creek 
is  just  west  of  station,  has  water  most  of  the  time, 
yet  Lodge  Pole  Creek,  beyond  Egbert,  sinks  in 
the  sand.  Water  can  be  found  in  the  bed  of  the 
stream  by  digging  3  to  9  feet.  This  is  a  telegraph 
station,  with  side  track,  cattle-yards  and  chutes. 

Tracy, — 478.8  miles  from  Omaha ;  elevation 
5,149  feet.  It  is  a  side  track  named  in  honor 
of  Judge  Tracy  of  Cheyenne. 

Egbert, — 484.4  miles  from  Omaha ;  elevation 
5,272  feet.  It  is  a  side  track  with  water  tank. 
Three  miles  south  of  this  side  track  runs  the 
Muddy,  which  has  quite  a  settlement  of  ranche- 
men.  The  Lodge  Pole  at  this  point  is  still  dry, 
and  the  company  dug  thirty-two  feet  for  the 
water  which  supplies  their  tank.  The  road  here 
leaves  the  main  valley  of  the  Lodge  Pole,  to  the 
right,  and  runs  up  a  branch,  in  which  the  bed  of 
a  creek  is  visible,  but  which  never  has  water  in 
it  except  after  the  cloud-bursts  spoken  of. 

Burns, — 490.7  miles  from  the  Missouri  River, 
with  an  elevation  of  5,428  feet.  The  grade  is 
now  quite  heavy  as  we  are  going  up  on  to  the 
divide  between  the  Lodge  Pole  and  Crow  Creek. 
Burns  is  simply  a  side  track  where  trains  occa* 
sionally  meet  and  pass. 

Hillsdale, — a  telegraph  station  with  side 
track  and  section-house.  The  place  takes  its  name 
from  a  Mr.  Hill,  who  was  killed  here  by  the  In- 
dians at  the  time  the  road  was  located.  He 
belonged  to  the  engineer  corps  of  the  road.  The 
company's  well  here,  which  supplies  the  water 
tank,  is  72  feet  deep.  North  and  south  of  this  sta* 
tion  numerous  sheep  ranches  have  been  opened. 
By  looking  straight  west,  up  the  track,  you  can 
here  obtain  the  first  glimpse  of  the  Black  Hills 
of  Wyoming — and  they  will  come  into  plain  view 
as  you  ascend  the  heavy  grade  toward  the  divide. 
Hillsdale  is  5,591  feet  above  the  sea,  and  496.4 
miles  from  Omaha.  Notice  the  grade  indicated 
by  the  elevations  as  you  pass  these  stations. 

Atkins,— 502.6  niiles  from  Omaha,  and  5,800 
feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  a  side  track,  simply, 
with  water  tank  and  section-house  near  by.  The 
well  which  supplies  this  station  with  water  is 
over  200  feet  deep.  Here  the  traveler  obtains  a 
good  view  of  the  Black  Hills  stretching  off  to  the 
right.  Still  up  the  grade  you  go,  reaching  the 


summit  of  the  divide  in  the  first  snow  shed  on 
the  line  of  the  road  just  beyond 

Archer, — which  is  508  miles  from  the  starting 
place,  with  an  elevation  of  6,000  feet  above  tide- 
water. This  station  is  a  side  track  with  section- 
house  near  by.  A  short  distance  farther,  you 


makes  its  way  through  the  bluffs  off  to  the  left. 
Soon  we  come  to  a  deep  cut  through  the  spur  ot 
a  bluff,  passing  which,  we  cross  a  bridge  over  a 
dry  ravine,  and  then  continue  up  the  hill  to  the 
"  Magic  City  "  of  the  plains,  called  Cheyenne. 
Lony's  Peak. — Travelers  will  notice,  a  fev 


V^ 


LONG'S  PEAK  FROM  ESTES  PARK. 


enter  the  shed ;  it  seems  like  passing  through  a 
tunnel.  In  the  distance  there  are  mountains 
"to  the  right  of  you,"  and  mountains  "to  the 
left  of  you,"  but  we  shall  see  more  of  then!  here* 
after.  Leaving  the  snow  shed  we  are  now  on  a 
down  grade  into  Crow  Creek  Valley,  which 


hours  before  reaching  Cheyenne,  the  snow-clad 
summit  of  this  bold  peak,  rising  above  the  dis- 
tant horizon.  It  is  about  sixty  miles  south-west 
of  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad,  and  the  highest 
mountain  in  northern  Colorado.  The  view  we 
here  give  is  taken  from  Estes  Park ;  a  beautiful 


63 


little  park  on  its  north-western  slope,  and  about 
twelve  miles  distant  from  the  summit.  This 
park  is  about  four  miles  wide,  and  six  miles  long, 
is  well  sheltered,  easy  of  access,  and  beautifully 
covered  with  pine  and  spruce  trees,  scattered 
easily  about  over  the  grassy  surface,  which  gives 
to  it  a  true  park-like  loveliness.  It  is  partially 
occupied  by  a  few  families  who  have  taken  up 
jparmanent  homesteads,  and  has  been  for  a  long 
time  an  excellent  pasture  for  large  herds  of  cattle 
which  live  here  the  entire  year.  Jt  is  also  becom- 
ing quite  a  pleasure  resort,  and  has  many  at- 
tractive features  to  interest  the  health  seeker  and 
tourist.  Excellent  fishing,  in  lovely  little  trout 
streams,  can  be  found  all  over  the  vicinity.  From 
this  valley  is  the  only  practicable  route  for 
ascending  the  peak.  Long's  Peak  is  14,271  feet 
in  elevation,  and  about  6,300  feet  above  the  park. 
Its  construction  is  of  the  boldest  and  most  de- 
cided character,  with  great  walls,  deep  canons ; 
and  on  its  sides  there  are  gorges  and  caverns 
among  the  grandest  on  the  continent.  Its  sum- 
mit is  divided  into  two  sharp  crests,  the  western 
one  being  the  highest  and  most  difficult  of  ascent. 
It  is  a  famous  landmark  for  a  stretch  of  country 
of  more  than  a  hundred  miles  from  north  to 
south. 

Buffaloes.  —  Buffalo  hunting  is  a  pastime 
tourists  can  now  have  little  hope  to  indulge  in. 
Few  or  no  buffaloes  ever  appear  within  sight  of 
the  car  windows  of  the  overland  trains,  and  the 
vast  herds  which  once  roamed  for  thousands  of 
miles  and  continually  up  and  down  the  great 
plain,  are  passing  away,  or  disappearing  from  their 
old  haunts  to  find  some  nook  or  corner  more 
quiet  and  secure.  Thousands  of  them  have  been 
killed  for  commercial  purposes.  The  hides  are 
stripped  off  and  sold  for  as  low  prices  as  $1.50, 
while  the  bones  are  gathered  in  heaps  near  the 
railroad  station  and  freighted  Eastward  to  be 
used  for  commercial  fertilizers.  In  one  winter 
it  is  estimated  that  on  the  lines  of  the  Union 
and  Kansas  Pacific  Railroad,  there  were  killed 
over  100,000  head. 

Astonishment  of  Indians  at  the  Loco- 
motive and  Telegraphs. — When  the  first 
locomotive  was  seen  passing  over  the  plains,  an 
Indian  guide  in  the  employ  of  the  United 
States  exclaimed  with  inexpressible  surprise, 
"  Good  medicine,  good  medicine.  Look,  look, 
at  the  tu-te"  (toot).  As  he  passed  under  the 
telegraph  wires,  which  then  were  stretching 
along  the  Platte,  through  which  the  wind  as  it 
swept  made  the  whirr  and  singing  sound  of  a 
prai*ie  harp,  this  guide  heard  the  sound,  and 
directly  declared  that  they  were  talking 
"medicines"  This  was  supposed  to  be  the 
creations  of  the  Great  Spirit,  and  everything  of 
supernatural  nature  was  ''medicine" 

The  Indians  have  rarely  ever  molested  the 
telegraph  wires  which  span  the  continent 
Shortly  after  the  wires  were  erected,  the  at- 


taches of  the  telegraph  company  invited  a 
number  of  Indian  chiefs  to  meet  them  at  a 
given  point,  and  from  thence  to  travel,  one 
party  East  and  the  other  West. 

When  they  had  reached  a  distance  of  100 
miles  apart,  each  party  was  invited  to  dictate 
a  message  to  the  other,  which  was  sent  over  the 
wires.  Then  turning  backward,  they  rod* 
rapidly  toward  each  other,  and  two  days  later 
met  and  compared  notes.  They  were  greatly 
astonished,  and  expressed  themselves  convinced 
that  the  "  Great  Spirit"  had  talked  to  them 
with  the  wires.  They  decided  from  that  time 
it  would  be  well  to  avoid  meddling  with  the 
wires. 

Soon  after  a  young  Sioux  Indian  was  deter- 
mined to  show  that  he  had  no  faith  in  the 
Great  Spirit's  connection  with  the  wires,  so  he 
set  to  work  with  his  hatchet  to  cut  down  one 
of  the  telegraph  poles.  A  severe  thunder- 
storm was  going  on  at  a  distance;  a  charge  of 
electricity  being  taken  up  by  the  wires,  was 
passed  to  the  pole  which  the  Indian  was  cut- 
ting, and  resulted  in  his  instant  death.  After 
that  the  tribe  never  molested  the  telegraph 
again. 

CHEYENNE. 

"Magic  City  of  the  Plains"- 516  miles 
from  Omaha;  elevation,  6,041  feet.  Thus  truly 
is  it  named,  for  it  is  at  present  the  most  active 
and  stirring  city  on  the  entire  line.  Travelers 
will  here  take  a  dinner  in  comfortable  style  at 
one  of  the  best-kept  hotels  between  the  two 
oceans.  It  is  a  good  place  to  rest  after  a  •ire- 
some  journey,  and  it  will  pay  to  stop  a  few 
days  and  enjoy  the  pure  air  and  genial  sun  in 
this  high  altitude.  The  hotel  is  owned  by  the 
railroad  company,  and  is  150  feet  long  by  36 
wide,  with  a  wing  25  feet  square.  It  has  an. 
elegant  dining-hall,  around  which  hang  the 
heads  of  antelope,  deer,  elk,  mountain-sheep, 
black-tailed  deer,  buffalo,  etc.,  all  nicely  pre- 
served and  looking  very  natural.  It  is  two 
stories  high,  the  upper  floor  being  well  fur- 
nished with  sleeping-rooms  for  guests.  Chey- 
enne is  the  capital  of  Wyoming  and  the  county 
seat  of  Laramie  County.  Cheyenne  has  had 
its  ups  and  downs.  Once  very  lively  when  the 
road  was  building,  then  it  fell  dead  and  motion- 
less. Now  it  has  arisen  again,  and  is  the  largest 
town  on  the  railroad  between  Omaha  and  Salt 
Lake  City,  having  a  population  of  fully  4,000, 
and  rapidly  growing.  There  are  two  causes 
for  this  growth.  First,  the  stock  interests 
which  center  here,  and,  second,  the  recent  gold 
discoveries  in  the  Black  Hills.  It  is  the  termi- 
nus of  the  Cheyenne  Division  of  the  Union 
Pacific  Railway,  and  of  the  Colorado  Division 
of  the  Union  Pacific  Railway,  giving  two  routes 
to  Colorado  and  New  Mexico.  During  the  last 
few  years  there  has  been  a  large  increase  in  the 


65 


permanent  buildings  of  the  city.  In  1875  the 
Jnter-Ocean  Hotel  was  completed — a  fine  brick 
structure  three  stories  high,  and  other  large 
and  elegant  brick  blocks,  with  iron  and  glass 
fronts.  In  proportion  to  its  population,  Chey- 
enne has  more  elegant  and  substantial  business 
houses  than  almost  any  other  Western  city.  The 
town  has  a  fine  court-house  and  jail,  which  cost 
$40,000,  a  large  public-school  building,  a  good 
city  hall,  a  brick  opera-house,  and  a  palatial 
club-house  costing  some  $25,000.  This  is  a 
wonderful  change  for  a  place  known  the  world 
over  by  its  fearful  sobriquet  of  "  Hell  on 
"Wheels. "  Churches  have  come  where  gamblers 
once  reigned ;  and  in  five  years  as  many  edifices 
for  religious  purposes  have  been  erected. 
The  Episcopalians,  Methodists,  Presbyterians, 
Congregationalists,  Baptists  and  Catholics, 
have  all  comfortable  church  buildings.  The 
school  accommodations,  owing  to  the  rapid 
growth  of  the  city,  have  recently  been  en- 
larged. At  first  sight  the  traveler  would 
naturally  inquire,  what  there  was  to  build 
and  sustain  a  town  here  ?  The  soil  is  not  pro- 
lific, nor  is  the  country  around  it.  Crow  Creek 
bottom  is  quite  narrow,  and  in  the  most  favor- 
able seasons,  by  irrigation,  "garden  truck" 
may  be  raised,  but  beyond  this  every  thing  looks 
barren  and  desolate.  The  soil  has  a  reddish 
appearance,  and  appears  to  consist  of  decom- 
posed granite  underlaid  in  the  valleys  with 
sand,  and  on  the  uplands  with  rock.  In  fact, 
a  man  who  attempts  to  farm  it  for  a  living  in 
this  region  of  the  country  is  simply  fooling 
away  his  time. 

Stock  Interests. — The  rich  nutritious  grass- 
es with  which  the  great  plains  are  covered  are 
here  found  in  all  their  excellence,  and  the  large 
territory  east  of  the  base  of  the  Black  Hills, 
north  as  far  as  the  North  Platte  River,  and 
south  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  is  how  sustaining 
miDions  of  sheep  and  cattle.  Cheyenne  is  lo- 
cated in  the  midst  of  one  of  the  best  sections  of 
this  territory,  and  all  around  it  are  the  ranches 
of  stockmen — men  engaged  in  growing  cattle, 
sheep,  horses  and  mules  for  market.  With  the 
exception  of  sheep,  no  hay  is  cut  for  these  ani- 
mals except  for  those  kept  up  for  use.  Winter 
and  summer  they  thrive  and  fatten  upon  nothing 
but  the  native  grasses.  Cheyenne  is  the  central 
and  natural  trading-point  for  these  ranchmen 
and  stock-growers.  Another  large  and  valuable 
element  of  its  prosperity  is  the  railroad  trade — 
the  company  having  here  quite  extensive 
machine  and  repair  shops,  with  a  commodious 
round-house.  Hunting  and  exploring  parties 
also  supply  themselves  with  outfits  at  this 
place,  and  immense  quantities  of  military  and 
Indian  supplies  also  pass  through  here  for  the 
posts  and  Indian  agencies  north. 

To  give  an  idea  of  the  stock  business  which 
centers  here,  and  its  rapid  increase,  let  us  state 


that  375  cars  of  cattle  were  shipped  in  1874,  which 
represent  7,500  head.  In  1875,  the  shipments 
increased  to  525  cars,  or  10,500  head;  in  1880,  to 
1,000  cars,  or  about  20, 000  head,  with  prospects 
for  a  large  increase  in  1881  and  future  years. 
It  may  be  well  to  state  here,  the  shipments 
from  Julesburg,  Sidney,  Ogallala  Pine  Bluffs, 
and  other  points  in  this  grazing  belt  of  the 
country,  in  1880  aggregated  about  50, 000  head, 
in  addition  to  the  Cheyenne  shipments. 

This  statement  does  not  include  the  cattle 
marketed  at  home  or  supplied  to  the  Indian 
agencies  in  the  North.  One  hundred  thousand 
head  of  cattle,  one  hundred  and  twenty-five 
thousand  sheep,  and  six  thousand  horses  and 
mules  are  the  estimated  number  owned  and 
held  in  Laramie  County  alone.  The  develop- 
ment of  the  cattle  and  stock  interests  of  this 
vast  upland  region  is  something  never  thought 
of,  nor  entered  the  heads  of  the  projectors  of 
the  railroad.  In  1867,  when  the  railroad  first 
arrived,  there  were  not  probably  a  hundred  head 
of  all  kinds  owned  in  the  whole  territory,  out- 
side of  those  belonging  to  contractors  and  stage 
lines.  Now  it  is  a  leading  interest,  and  repre- 
sents millions  of  dollars.  Like  all  other  frontier 
towns,  Cheyenne  has  a  history,  and  it  is  similar 
to  that  of  others.  It  was  once  a  very  fast  town, 
and  it  is  not  very  slow  now.  On  the  1st  day  of 
July,  1867,  it  had  one  house  built  and  owned 
by  Judge  J.  B.  Whitehead,  on  Eddy  Street, 
between  Sixteenth  and  Seventeenth.  That 
house  stands  to-day,  and  is  known  as  the 
Whitehead  block.  It  was  built  of  logs  and 
smoothly  plastered  outside  and  in. 

JKouf/h  Times. — When  it  was  known  that 
this  was  to  be  the  winter  terminus  of  the  road, 
there  was  a  grand  hegira  of  roughs,  gamblers 
and  prostitutes  from  Julesburg  and  other 
places  down  the  road  to  this  point,  and  in  the 
fall  of  that  year  and  winter  of  '68,  Cheyenne 
contained  6,000  inhabitants.  Habitations 
sprang  up  like  mushrooms.  They  were  of 
every  conceivable  character,  and  some  were 
simply  holes  in  the  ground,  otherwise  termed 
"  dug-outs."  Town-lots  were  sold  at  fabulous 
prices.  Every  nation  on  the  globe,  nearly,  was 
represented  here.  The  principal  pastimes  were 
gambling,  drinking  villainous  rot-gut  whisky, 
and  shooting.  Shooting  scrapes  were  an  every- 
day occurrence.  Stealing  anything  from  any- 
body was  the  natural  habit  of  the  thieving 
roughs.  Knock-downs  and  robberies  were 
daily  and  nightly  amusements.  But  these 
things  had  to  come  to  an  end,  and  their  perpe- 
trators, some  of  them,  to  a  rope's  end.  The 
more  respectable  portion  of  the  citizens  be- 
came weary  of  the  depredations  on  property 
and  life.  Vigilance  committees  were  organized, 
and  "Judge  Lynch"  held  court,  from  which 
there  were  neither  appeals  nor  stay  of  execu- 
tions. Juries  never  disagreed,  nor  were  there 


66 


vexatious  delays  and  motions  for  a  new  trial. 
Witnesses  were  unnecessary ,  and  demurrers  of 
no  account.  Nor  would  "the  insanity  dodge " 
avail.  The  victims  were  known  and  ' '  spotted  " 
beforehand,  the  judgments  of  the  courts  were 
unerring  and  generally  righteous.  No  gallows 
were  erected,  because  telegraph  poles  and  the 
railroad  bridge  across  Crow  Creek  were  con- 
venient of  access.  When  Cheyenne  was  only 
six  months  old,  so  frequent  were  the  murders 
and  robberies,  and  the  city  authorities  so  pow- 
erless, that  a  vigilance  committee  was  organized. 
The  first  knowledge  of  its  existence  happened 
thus:  Three  men  were  arrested  on  the  10th 
day  of  January,  1868,  charged  with  having 
stolen  $900.  They  were  put  under  bonds  to 
appear  before  the  court  on  the  14th  of  the  same 
month.  On  the  morning  of  the  day  after  they 
were  arrested,  they  were  found  on  Eddy  Street, 
tied  together,  walking  abreast,  with  a  large 
piece  of  canvas  attached  to  them,  on  which  the 
following  words  were  conspicuous:  "$900 
stole;  $500  returned;  thieves— F.  St.  Clair.  W. 
Grier,  E.  D.  Brownville.  City  authorities, 
please  not  interfere  until  10  o'clock  A.  M.  Next 
case  goes  up  a  tree.  Beware  of  Vigilance  Com- 
m  ittee. "  Within  one  year  after  its  organization, 
the  "vigilantes"  had  hung  and  shot  twelve 
desperadoes  and  sent  five  to  the  penitentiary. 
Since  that  time  Cheyenne  has  been  ruled  by  the 
law-and-order  party,  though  even  these  may 
seem  rather  lax  to  Eastern  people  not  accus- 
tomed to  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  fron- 
tier. Yet  the  people  enjoy  "  peace. " 

On  the  13th  day  of  November,  1867,  the 
track-layers  reached  the  city  limits,  and  on  the 
14th  the  first  passenger  train  arrived.  The 
arrival  of  the  track-layers  was  greeted  with 
music,  a  display  of  bunting,  while  the  inhabit- 
ants turned  out  en  masse  to  meet  them.  On 
the  14th  an  enthusiastic  meeting  of  citizens 
was  held  to  extend  a  public  greeting  to  the 
railroad  officials  who  had  arrived  on  the  first 
train,  among  whom  were  Sidney  Dillon,  Esq., 
now  president  of  the  company,  and  General 
Casement  of  Ohio,  the  champion  track-layer 
of  the  continent. 

The  first  city  government  was  organized 
by  the  election  of  officers,  on  the  10th  of 
August,  1867.  The  first  newspaper  was  issued 
on  the  19th  of  September,  called  the  Chey- 
enne Leader,  and  has  maintained  its  exist- 
ence ever  since — publishing  daily  and  weekly 
editions.  Other  papers  have  since  been  started, 
but  they  were  short-lived,  until  the  publication 
of  the  Cheyenne  Daily  News,  which  is  a  spicy 
little  daily.  As  the  town  is  now  able  to  sup- 
port two  papers,  the  News  (merged  into  the 
Daily  Sun)  will  continue  to  flourish. 

Cheyenne  is  well  laid  out,  with  broad  streets 
at  right  angles  to  the  railroad,  and  has  an 
abundant  supply  of  pure  water.  Irrigating 


ditches  run  through  the  streets.  A  ditch  was 
dug  from  Crow  Creek  to  some  natural  "hol- 
lows," or  reservoirs  north  of  the  town,  which 
form  beautiful  little  lakes.  From  these  the 
water  for  the  streets  is  taken  by  ditches.  As  a 
result,  trees  and  shrubbery  will  soon  ornament 
the  streets  and  yards  of  the  city,  which  will 
greatly  add  to  its  attractiveness  and  beauty. 
A  fine  system  of  water  works  has  been  con- 
structed. There  are  a  few  local  manufactories 
already  in  existence,  and  more  will  follow,  and. 
on  a  larger  scale. 

Precious  Stones. — In  the  adjacent  moun- 
tains, on  the  hills  and  bluffs  near  by,  and 
in  the  valleys  of  the  streams  in  this  vicinity, 
a  large  number  of  curious  and  precious- 
stones,  gems  rich  and  rare,  have  been  found. 
They  are  very  plenty  in  their  natural  state, 
their  chief  value  being  in  the  cost  of  cut- 
ting by  a  lapidary  and  mounting  by  a  jew- 
eler. In  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  Chey- 
enne the  following  are  found:  Moss-agates,  in 
great  profusion;  topaz,  in  colors;  garnet  or 
mountain  ruby:  they  are  usually  found  in  the 
little  heaps  of  sand  thrown  up  by  ants :  opals 
variegated,  rare  as  yet,  and  valuable;  petrifac- 
tions of  wood  and  shells,  which,  when  cut, 
polished  and  mounted,  are  splendid;  amethysts, 
onyx,  black  and  white,  for  cameos  and  jasper. 
All  of  these  have  been  found  in  this  vicinity, 
though  some  are  rare.  The  most  beautiful 
moss-agates  are  found  about  half-way  to  Fort 
Laramie,  on  Chugwater  Creek.  Messrs.  Joslyn 
&  Park,  an  old  and  reliable  firm  of  manufac- 
turing jewelers,  in  both  Cheyenne  and  Salt 
Lake  City,  have  made  this  business  a  specialty, 
and  possess  the  largest  and  finest  collection  of 
stones  in  the  country.  Some  of  them  are  ex- 
ceedingly beautiful.  Fine  specimens  of  petri- 
fied palm-wood  may  be  seen  at  their  store. 
They  are  both  beautiful  and  rare.  The  fact 
that  petrified  palm-wood  and  petrified  bones  of 
the  rhinoceros  have  been  found  in  this  terri- 
tory, shows  that  some  six  million  years  ago — 
comparatively  recent — there  was  a  tropical 
climate  in  this  region  of  the  country,  when  the 
palm  flourished  in  luxuriance,  and  the  rhino- 
ceros sported  in  the  warm  streams  or  cavorted 
around  on  their  sunny  banks. 

Prospects. — At  present,  the  greatest  cause 
of  the  growth  and  prosperity  of  Cheyenne  is 
the  discovery  of  gold  in  the  Black  Hills  of 
Dakota.  This  cause  will  last  until,  if  that 
country  will  warrant  it,  a  railroad  is  built 
there.  The  discoveries  of  gold  seem  to  be  ex- 
tensive and  inexhaustive,  and  the  building  of 
a  railroad  from  some  point  here  or  on  the  Union 
Pacific  or  Missouri  River  will  rapidly  follow. 
The  Colorado  Division  of  the  Union  Pacific 
Railway  gives  to  Cheyenne  very  flattering 
prospects,  and  its  business  men  are  reaping  a 
rich  harvest  from  their  investments.  The 


SCENES  IN  THE  BLACK  HILLS, 
t.— Golden  Park.    2.— Genevieve  Park.    3.— Ouster  Park.    4.— Limestone  Peak.    6.— Harney's  Park. 


68 


opening  of  Northern  Wyoming  to  settlement, 
the  development  of  the  vast  mineral  resources 
of  the  territory,  and  the  continued  prosperity 
of  her  stock  interests,  will  give  to  the  "  Magic 
City  of  the  Plains  "  the  trade,  growth  and  in- 
fluence which  her  location  demands. 

Health. — As  a  resort  for  health-seekers, 
Cheyenne  has  superior  advantages.  It  is  about 
a  thousand  feet  higher  than  Denver,  with  an 
atmosphere  not  only  rarefied  but  dry.  It  has 
good  hotels  and  livery  accommodations.  Ponies 
are  cheap,  and  invalids  can  purchase  them  and 
ride  over  the  hills  and  dales  at  pleasure.  There 
is  also  an  abundance  of  game  in  the  vicinity — 
antelope,  rabbits,  deer,  etc.  A  bear  weighing 
over  1,500  pounds  was  killed  near  here  in  1875. 
Its  skin  has  baen  preserved,  and  the  bear  has 
been  mounted  in  good  shape.  Frequent  excur- 
sions can  also  ba  taken  in  the  warm  summer 
weather  to  Fort  Laramie,  Cheyenne  Pass  and 
other  places,  which  will  expand  the  lungs  and 
invigorate  the  body.  The  results  of  several 
years'  observations  at  the  United  States  Signal 
Station  here  show  that  the  temperature  is  more 
even,  taking  the  years  together,  than  in  many 
places  East  or  on  the  Pacific  Coast.  The  hot- 
test days  do  not  equal  those  which  frequently 
occur  in  the  East,  and  in  the  summer  months 
the  nights  are  deliciously  cool,  assuring  the  in- 
valid good  sleep  under  plenty  of  blankets.  Al- 
though Cheyenne  is  a  good  place  to  sleep,  yet 
the  people  are  wide-awake  and  "owly  "  nights. 

Rapidity  of  Business  at  Cheyenne.— 
On  the  22d  of  July,  1867,  the  first  lots  were 
offered  for  sale  by  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad 
Company  at  Cheyenne— 66  by  132  feet  for  $150. 
Thirty  days  after  these  lots  sold  for  $1,000  each, 
and  in  two  to  three  months  thereafter,  the  same 
lots  were  again  resold  at  $2,000  to  $2,500.  On 
the  15th  of  July,  1867,  there  was  but  one  house 
at  Cheyenne.  Six  months  thereafter  there  were 
no  less  than  three  thousand.  The  government 
freight  which  was  transported  over  the  plains 
to  Cheyenne  from  November,  1867,  to  February, 
1868,  four  months,  amounted  to  6,000  tons,  and 
filled  twelve  large  warehouses,  and  for  a  long 
time  subsequently  averaged  15,000,000  to  20,- 
000,000  pounds  annually. 

During  the  fall  and  winter,  there  were  three 
forwarding  companies  whose  business  in  trans- 
porting goods,  exclusive  of  government  sup- 
plies, averaged  5,000,000  pounds  per  month. 
Stores  were  erected  with  marvelous  rapidity. 
One  firm  constructed  an  entire  store,  twenty-five 
by  fifty -five  feet,  quite  substantial,  in  just  forty- 
eight  hours;  three  hundred  firms  were  in  opera- 
tion that  winter,  doing  mostly  a  wholesale 
business;  of  this  number,  over  seventy  made 
sales  of  over  $10,000  per  month  each,  and  with 
some  firms  sales  reached  over  $30,000  per 
month. 

The  first  post-office  was  established  October 


30,  1867;  salary  $1.00  per  month.  In  two 
months  the  United  States  mails  had  increased 
so  enormously  as  to  average  2,600  letters  per 
day,  and  in  two  months  more  this  was  doubled, 
and  salary  increased  to  $2,000  per  year. 
Though  business  declined  as  soon  as  the  termin- 
us of  the  road  was  moved,  yet  it  now  has  a  solid 
business.  The  population  in  1879  is  about 
6,000,  and  there  was  invested  in  new  buildings, 
in  the  single  year  of  1875,  no  less  than  $430,000. 

The  Black  Hills  Gold  Discoveries. 

For  several  years  the  impression  has  obtained 
that  there  was  gold  in  the  Black  Hills  of 
Dakota,  and  every  exploration  under  the  aus- 
pices of  the  government  has  tended  to  encour- 
age and  strengthen  this  impression.  In  1860, 
Colonel  Bullock,  now  a  resident  of  Cheyenne, 
was  an  Indian  agent  and  trader  where  Fort 
Laramie  now  stands.  He  saw  a  squaw  in  his 
store  one  day  with  something  in  her  mouth. 
He  said,  "Let  me  see  that. "  She  gave  it  to 
him,  and  it  proved  to  be  a  nugget  of  gold 
worth  about  three  dollars.  He  said,  "  Give 
that  to  me."  She  told  him  she  would  for  some 
raisins  and  candy.  These  he  gave  her,  and 
afterwards  gave  her  coffee  and  sugar  to  its  full 
value.  He  showed  the  gold  to  his  interpreter, 
and  requested  him,  if  possible,  to  find  out 
where  it  came  from.  The  interpreter  did  his 
best,  but  the  squaw  would  only  say  that  it  was 
picked  up  in  the  bed  of  a  creek,  and  that  the 
Indians  would  kill  her  if  she  told  where  it 
was.  During  his  long  experience  as  a  trader 
with  the  Indians,  Colonel  Bullock  frequently 
saw  small  nuggets  of  gold,  but  could  never 
find  out  where  the  Indians  obtained  them,  and 
the  inferences  he  drew  from  all  the  information 
he  could  obtain  were  to  the  effect  that  the 
Bear  Lodge  country,  nearly  north  of  the 
Inyan  Kara  mountain,  was  the  region  where 
this  gold  came  from.  According  to  the  most 
recent  information  on  the  subject,  the  eastern 
boundary  line  of  Wyoming  strikes  the  Black 
Hills  nearly  in  the  center — that  about  one-half 
are  in  Dakota  and  the  other  half  in  Wyoming. 
Harney's  Peak  and  Dodge's  Peak  are  in  the 
former,  while  the  Inyan  Jiara  and  Bear  Lodge 
Mountains  are  in  the  latter  territory. 

The  Black  Hills  are  mainly  confined  to  a 
region  of  territory  lying  between  the  forks  of 
the  Cheyenne  Eiver.  In  addition  to  the  gulch 
and  placer  diggings,  already  discovered,  there 
have  been  a  few  discoveries  of  what  appear  to 
be  rich  quartz  lodes  of  gold  and  veins  of  silver. 
This  region  is  about  one  hundred  miles  long 
and  eighty  miles  wide.  French  Creek,  Spring 
Creek,  Rapid  Creek,  Box-elder  Creek,  Elk 
Creek,  and  others,  head  in  these  hills,  and 
flow  mainly  in  an  eastern  direction,  emptying 
into  the  south  fork  of  the  Cheyenne.  The 
north  fork  seems  to  hug  the  liills  pretty  closely 


with  small  creeks  and  streams,  yet  unexplored, 
heading  in  the  mountains  and  flowing  into  it. 
The  north  fork  heads  in  Pumpkin  Butte,  a 
mountain  a  little  northwest  of  Fort  Fetterman, 
on  the  North  Platte  River.  West  of  the  north- 
ern portion  of  the  Black  Hills,  there  are  sev- 
eral ranges  of  mountains,  and  several  streams 
which  flow  north  into  the  Yellowstone  River. 
Ail  accounts  of  this  region  of  country,  as  far 
west  as  the  Big  Horn  Mountain,  unite  in  the 
report  of  its  rich  mineral  character. 

Hoiv  to  Get  to  flie  Black  Hills. — Within 
the  past  years  of  1877  to  1881),  there  have  been 
opened  three 
distinct  routes 
to  the  Black 
Hills,  and  it  ia 
now  easy  of  ac- 
cess. The  prin- 
cipal route  is 
•via  the  Union 
Pacific  Railroad 
and  stage  line 
from  Sidney. 
A  longer  route 
is  occasionally 
used  by  steam- 
ers up  the  Mis- 
souri River  to 
Sioux  City, 
Yankton  and 
Port  Pierre, 
and  thence  by 
wagon  across 
the  plains  and 
"  bad  lands"  of 
Dakota.  This 
route  is  long 
and  circuitous, 
with  not  as 
good  wood, 
water  or  graz- 
ing  as  the 
southern  route. 
From  Cheyenne 
there  is  a  good 
natural  road, 
which  runs  to 
Fort  Laramie,  a 
distance  of  ninety  miles,  over  which  the  United 
States  mails  have  been  carried  for  many  years. 
It  passes  through  a  country  with  good  ranches 
at  convenient  distances  apart.  From  Fort 
Laramie  to  Custer  and  Deadwood  City  there  is 
a  good  wagon  road,  which  has  recently  been 
shortened  sixty  miles,  so  that  the  entire  dis- 
tances are  as  follows: — 

Cheyenne  to  Fort  Laramie,  90  miles;  to  Cus- 
ter City,  210  miles;  Hill  City,  228  miles; 
Golden  City,  268  miles;  Rapid  City,  260  miles; 
Rochford,  240  miles;  Deadwood,  275  miles; 
Crook  City,  237  miles. 


AGNES  PARK.— BLACK  HILLS. 


The  Sidney  and  Black  Hills  Stage  line  now 
runs  regularly  daily  trips  over  the  road  with  a 
superior  outfit  for  transportation  of  all  classes 
of  passengers.  Hitherto  the  Cheyenne  route 
has  been  the  principal  one  since  it  has  been 
the  depot  of  supplies.  It  is  the  route  used  by 
the  Government  Supply  trains,  is  in  the  prox- 
imity of  four  government  military  forts  and 
stations,  and  along  the  entire  route  there  is  an 
ample  supply  of  wood,  water  and  grain.  It  is 
also  the  line  of  the  telegraph  to  the  Black 
Hills,  which  connects  Deadwood  and  Cheyenne. 
The  time  occupied  in  stage  travel  to  the  prin- 
cipal places  of 
the  Black  Hills 
is  from  forty- 
eight  to  sixty 
hours. 

Sidney  has 
also  become  a 
large  outfitting 
point,  and  there 
is  now  invested 
nearly  $100,- 
000  capital  in 
transportation, 
equipments  for 
passengers  and 
freight  to  the 
Black  Hills 
mines. 

Stages  leave 
Sidney  every 
morning  at  9 
o'clock,  and 
make  the  dis- 
tance in  the  fol- 
lowing time: — 
RedCloud 
Agency  in 
twenty  hours; 
Buffalo  Gap 
(the  point  of 
intersection 
with  stage  for 
Custer,  thirty 
miles  West)  in 
thirty  hours, 
and  reaches  the 
entire  distance  to  Deadwood  in  forty-eight  to 
sixty  hours. 

By  the  Sidney  route  the  distances  are  as  fol- 
lows: 

To  Red  Cloud  Agency,  109  miles;  Buffalo 
Gap,  171  miles;  French  Creek,  184  miles;  Bat- 
tle Creek,  196  miles;  Rapid  River,  214  miles; 
Spring  Valley,  228  miles;  Crook  City,  253  miles; 
Deadwood,  265  miles.  The  distance  by  the 
Sidney  route  is  considerably  less  than  by  any 
other. 

Result  of  the  Opening  of  tlie  Black 
Hills. — During  the  season  of  1880,  the  yield 


.* 


70 


of  the  gold  mines  -was  ovei  $3,000,000.  Dead- 
wood  bankers  are  said  to  have  bought  above 
$900,000  worth  of  goM  dust,  and  various 
amounts  have  been  forwarded  in  other  ways, 
besides  what  has  been  kept  in  the  Hills.  This 
result  has  been  entirely  from  placer  mining. 
One  mining  party  known  as  the  Wheeler  party 
realized  nearly  $500,000  in.  one  season.  Extra- 
ordinary success  attended  their  work;  $2,600 
was  cleared  in  only  forty-two  hours'  work, 
and  in  general,  on  Deadwood  Creek,  the  aver- 
age to  the  miners  on  each  claim  was  $300  to 
$700  per  day.  Nearly  all  the  yield  of  the  Black 
Hills  in  1876  was  gleaned  in  the  vicinity  of 
Deadwood  and  Whitewood  gulches. 

Quartz  mining  has  been  attempted.  First 
assays  were  but  $38  per  ton,  and  the  average 
of  the  ores  thus  far  experimented  upon  vary 
from  $10  to  $50  per  ton.  During  the  past  year 
several  gigantic  stamping  mills  have  been 
erected. 

Miners  with  mortar  and  pestle  have  taken 
ore  from  some  of  these  quartz  lodes,  and  real- 
ized as  high  as  $15  per  day.  The  width  of  the 
mineral  belt  is  now  definitely  ascertained  to  be 
but  ten  to  fifteen  miles,  but  it  stretches  100 
miles  long.  The  agricultural  value  of  the  Hills 
is  beyond  all  words  of  expression.  The  val- 
leys have  been  found  to  be  surpassingly  fertile, 
the  rain-fall  regular  and  constant,  and  were 
any  one  dissatisfied  with  mining,  still  there  is 
room  for  thousands  of  farms  and  peaceful 
homes. 

A  man  prospecting  on  Iron  Creek  took  out 
$23.67  from  one  pan  of  dirt.  Mr.  Allen,  the  re- 
corder of  mining  claims,  took  from  his  claim 
four  pounds  of  coarse  gold  in  one  month. 

Professor  Jenny,  in  July,  1875,  writing  to 
the  Department  of  the  Interior  at  Washington, 
announces  the  discovery  of  gold  in  paying 
quantities  near  Harney's  Peak.  "The  gold  is 
found  in  quartz  ledges  of  enormous  dimen- 
sions. Whether  the  mines  be  valuable  or  not, 
there  is  a  vastness  of  future  wealth  in  the  grass 
lands,  farms  and  timber.  The  soil  is  deep  and 
fertile;  the  rain -fall  more  abundant  than  at  any 
other  point  west  of  the  Alleghanies. "  In  the 
summer  of  1875,  an  expedition  headed  by 
General  Custer  visited  this  region.  He  de- 
scribes finding  an  abundance  of  wild  fruits, 
strawberries,  raspberries,  gooseberries,  in  won- 
derful profusion;  and  frequently  the  wild 
berry  was  larger  and  of  a  more  delicious  flavor 
than  the  domestic  species  in  the  Eastern 
States. 

During  one  week  eight  hundred  miners 
passed  through  Hill  City,  en  route  for  the 
mines  of  Whitewood  and  Deadwood.  In  most 
of  the  creeks  the  bed-rock  lies  fifteen  to  twen- 
ty and  forty  feet  below  the  surface.  On  the 
first  of  March,  1877,  there  were  estimated  to 
be  over  twenty  thousand  people  in  the  Black 


Hills,  and  rapidly  accumulating  at  the  rate  of 
one  thousand  per  month,  but  since  the  rich 
Colorado  discoveries  at  Leadville,  the  excite- 
ment has  decreased. 

A  Terrible  Thunder  Storm. — The  Black 
Hills  of  Dakota  are  the  fear  of  Indians, 
because  of  the  frequent  thunder  storms. 
Colonel  B.  I.  Dodge,  United  States  Com- 
mander of  the  Black  Hills  Expedition,  1874, 
states  that  in  this  region  "thunder  storms  are 
quite  frequent,  terrific  in  force  and  power, 
and  fearful  in  the  vividness  and  nearness  of 
the  lightning.  There  is  scarcely  a  day  in  sum- 
mer that  there  is  not  a  thunder-storm  in  some 
part  of  the  hills. 

"  One  afternoon,  from  the  top  of  one  of  the 
high  mountains,  near  Hamey's  Peak,  I  saw 
five  separate  and  distinct  storms,  occurring  at 
the  same  instant  in  different  parts  of  the 
hills.  One  of  these  struck  our  party  with  fatal 
results. 

"A  heavy  rain-storm  coming  on,  two  sol- 
diers an«l  the  boy  took  refuge  under  a  tall 
pine.  All  three  were  seated  on  a  rock  about 
six  feet  from  the  trunk  of  the  tree,  and  each 
held  in  his  hand  the  reins  of  his  horse's  bridle. 
At  the  flash,  the  three  persons  and  horses 
were  thrown  to  the  ground,  one  of  the  soldiers 
being  pitched  quite  a  distance,  alighting  on 
his  head.  The  surgeon  was  promptly  on 
hand.  Each  person  had  been  struck  on  the 
cheek  bone,  just  under  the  eye.  The  fluid 
passed  down  the  person  of  each,  going  out 
at  the  ball  of  the  foot,  boring  a  hole  in  the 
shoe  sole  as  clean  and  round  as  if  made 
by  a  bullet,  and  raising  a  large  blood  blis- 
ter on  the  bottom  of  the  foot.  Neither  had 
any  other  mark  whatever.  Skipping  from 
the  men  to  the  horses,  the  flash  prostrated 
all,  striking  each  just  over  the  eye.  Two 
soon  recovered  their  feet,  and  the  third  was 
killed. 

"During  this  storm,  which  lasted  scarce 
half  an  hour,  more  than  twenty  trees  were 
struck  by  lightning  within  a  radius  of  a  few 
hundred  yards. 

"At  another  time  I  witnessed  another 
curious  and  unaccountable  phenomenon.  I 
was  on  a  high  mountain  of  the  Harney 
group.  Within  four  miles  of  me,  in  differ- 
ent directions,  were  three  thunder  storms, 
their  clouds  being  probably  five  hundred 
or  one  thousand  feet  below  me.  Though  I 
could  see  the  vivid  and  incessant  flashes 
of  lightning,  not  a  sound  of  the  thunder 
could  be  heard.  Throughout  the  Hills  the 
number  of  the  trees  which  bear  the  mark 
of  the  thunder-bolt  is  very  remarkable,  and 
the  strongest  proof  of  the  violence  and  fre- 
quent recurrence  of  these  storms.  The  elec- 
tric current  acts  in  the  most  eccentric  way.  In 
some  cases  it  will  have  struck  the  very  top  of  a 


71 


lofty  pine,  and  passed  down,  cutting  a  straight 
and  narrow  groove  in  the  bark,  without  any  ap- 
parent ill  effect  on  the  tree,  which  remains  green 
and  flourishing ;  at  other  times  the  tree  will  be 
riven  into  a  thousand  pieces,  as  if  with  the  blows 
of  a  giant  axe,  and  the  fragments  scattered  a 
hundred  feet  around." 

Rainbows. — "  The  rainbow  of  the  Black 
Hills  is  a  marvel  of  perfection  and  beauty.  Two 
or  three  times  wider  than  the  rainbow  of  the 
States,  it  forms  a  complete  and  perfect  arch,  both 
•ends  being,  sometimes,  visible  to  the  beholder, 
and  one  so  near  and  distinct  that  there  would  be 
little  difficulty  in  locating  the  traditional  'pot  of 
gold.'  Very  frequently  the  rainbow  is  doubled, 
and  several  times  I  saw  three  distinct  arches,  the 
third  and  higher  being,  however,  a  comparatively 
faint  reflex  of  the  brilliant  colors  of  the  lower." 


867  feet  at  base,  297  feet  at  top.  It  rises  1,127 
feet  above  its  base,  and  5,100  feet  above  tide- 
water. Its  summit  is  inaccessible  to  anything 
without  wings.  The  sides  are  fluted  and  scored 
by  the  action  of  the  elements,  and  immense 
blocks  of  granite,  split  oft  from  the  column  by 
frost,  are  piled  in  huge,  irregular  mounds  about 
its  base.  The  Indians  call  this  shaft  "  The  Bad 
God's  Tower." 

Game. — The  Hills  are  full  of  deer,  elk,  bears, 
wolves,  cougars,  grouse,  and  ducks.  The  streams 
have  an  abundance  of  fish,  although  of  but  few 
sorts. 

After  careful  investigation  General  Dodge 
closes  with  this  expression  of  careful  judgment : 

Opinion  of  General  Dodge. — "  1  but  ex- 
press my  fair  and  candid  opinion  when  I  pro- 
nounce the  Black  Hills,  in  many  respects,  the 


DEVIL'S  TOWEK— BLACK  HILLS. 


Mountains.  —  Harney's  Peak  is  7,440  feet 
above  tide-water,  the  other  peaks  are 


Crook's  Monument, 
Dodge's  Peak, 
Terry's  Peak, 
"Warren's  Peak, 
Ouster's  Peak, 
Crow  Peak, 
Bare  Peak, 
Devil's  Tower, 


7,600  feet  elevation. 
7,300  feet  elevation. 
7,200  feet  elevation. 
6,900  feet  elevation. 
6,750  feet  elevation. 
6,200  feet  elevation. 
5,200  feet  elevation. 
5,100  feet  elevation. 


The  Devil's  Tower  is  one  of  the  most  remark- 
able peaks  of  the  world.  General  Dodge  de- 
scribes it  thus :  "  An  immense  obelisk  of  granite, 


finest  country  I  have  ever  seen.  The  beauty  and 
variety  of  the  scenery,  the  excellence  of  the  soil, 
the  magnificence  of  the  climate,  the  abundance 
of  timber  and  building  stone  make  it  a  most  de- 
sirable residence  for  men  who  want  good  homes. 

"  As  a  grazing  country  it  can  not  be  surpassed, 
and  small  stock  farms  of  fine  cattle  and  sheep 
can  not  fail  of  success. 

"  Gold  there  is  every-where  in  the  granite — gold 
enough  to  make  many  fortunes,  and  tempt  to 
the  loss  of  many  more. 


72 


WILLIAMS'  CANON,   COLORADO  SPRINGS. 


BY   THOMAS   MOHAN. 


73 


"  Here  is  a  country  destined,  in  a  few  years,  to 
be  an  important  and  wealthy  portion  of  the 
great  American  Republic." 

There  is  little  doubt  that  in  a  few  years  this 
section,  from  the  Black  Hills  of  Dakota  to  and 
across  the  Big  Horn  region,  and  all  northern 
Wyoming,  will  be  a  rich  field  of  industry,  as 
have  been  Colorado  and  Utah.  The  illustrations 
we  give  are  from  photographs  taken  by  General 
Custer  in  his  famous  Black  Hills  Exploring 
Expedition  of  1875,  and  represent  this  country 
to  be  of  great  scenic  beauty. 

COLORADO. 

Pleasure  Resorts. — Colorado  is  an  empire 
of  itself  in  enterprise,  scenic  beauty  and  abund- 
ance of  pleasure  resorts.  In  1870,  few  or  none 
of  these  were  known,  and  towns  were  small  in 
number  and  population.  Since  that  time,  it  has 
become  a  center  of  great  railroad  activity,  has 
grown  in  wonderful  favor  as  an  attractive  region 
for  summer  travel ;  and  as  a  country  for  health- 
giving  and  life-giving  strength,  it"  has  drawn 
thither  thousands  who  have  made  it  their  perma- 
nent, home. 

Tlie  Colorado  Division,  Union  Pacific 
Raihvay.— Tourists  to  Colorado  will  find  a 
journey  over  this  railroad  line,  opened  in  1877, 
of  special  interest  and  attractiveness.  Horton 
Reclining  Chair  Cars  run  direct  over  this  line 
from  Cheyenne  to  Denver,  simply  changing 
trains  at  Cheyenne,  and  all  trains  make  connec- 
tions from  Denver  for  Union  Pacific  trains 
East.  The  route  for  the  first  fifty  or  more  miles 
south  passes  at  the  base  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, in  grand  view  of  their  sublime  snow- 
capped summits.  The  equal  of  this  ride  is  not 
found  in  any  railroad  in  the  Far  West.  At  Fort 
Collins  the  railroad  crosses  the  famous  Cache  ii 
Poudre  Valley,  one  of  the  finest  and  most  lovely 
regions  of  agricultural  wealth  in  the  State;  and 
up  -which  the  Greeley,  Utah  and  Pacific  Rail- 
road is  now  being  constructed  into  the  rich 
silver  districts  of  North  Park.  Wheat  and  all 
kinds  of  grain  are  here  cultivated  in  large 
farms,  and  yield  luxuriant  crops. 

Esfes  Park  is  a  place  of  superb  scenic  at- 
traction, which  will  afford  a  most  pleasurable 
resort  for  the  overland  Tourist  to  visit.  It  is 
reached  by  stage  from  Longmont,  distance  36 
miles,  contains  a  very  superior  mountain  hotel, 
and  a  wide  expanse  of  park  scenery,  with  mag- 
nificent views  of  Long's  Peak,  and  the  snowy 
caps  of  the  neighboring  peaks ;  also  there  is 
abundance  of  trout  fishing.  %  For  a  health  resort 
to  any  one  seeking  rest  and  recuperation,  a 
sojourn  here  will  be  found  particularly  enjoyable. 

Longmont  is  in  the  midst  of  a  thriving  agri- 
cultural country,  with  large  and  rich  farms — the 
country  is  nearly  level — yet  the  supply  of  water 
is  abundant  for  irrigating  purposes,  and  the 
farmincr  advantages  of  the  country  are  good. 


Some  of  the  little  farms  are  gems  in  their  neat- 
ness. The  railroad  here  is  at  its  greatest  dis- 
tance from  the  range  ;  hence  they  seem  smaller, 
and  lower  in  elevation,  with  less  snow,  though 
here  and  there  is  an  opening  in  the  range  which 
reveals  the  glorious  form  of  some  tall  snow  cov- 
ered monarch.  The  population  is  about  1,OOJ. 
BoiiMer  is  most  prettily  located  at  the 
entrance  to  the  famous  Boulder  Canon, 
and  immediately  in  a  little  cove  at  the  base 
of  the  mountains.  The  valley  is  the  most 
fertile  in  the  State,  the  water  supply  is  un- 
surpassed, the  climate  is  the  mildest  of  any 
northern  country,  and  the  crops  are  much. 
earlier  than  any  place  for  one  hundred 
miles  from  Denver.  Tourists  will  find  numer- 
ous mines  near  here  worth  visiting,  also  most 
interesting  rides  up  Boulder  Canon,  Bear  Creek 
Canon,  and  a  trip  to  Caribon  Silver  mines.  The 
railroad,  as  it  passes  Southward  and  rises  out  of 
the  valley  to  the  upland,  reveals,  as  you  cast  a 
glance  back,  a  wondrously  beautiful  view  of 
landscape  charms.  The  mountain  view  is  sub- 
lime; the  near  peaks  being  dark,  while  the  dis- 
tant ones,  well  covered  with  snow,  afford  start- 
ling contrast  and  are  beautiful  in  the  extreme. 

From  Boulder  to  Golden  Junction,  and  thence 
to  Denver,  the  railroad  crosses  alternately  high 
upland,  then  descends  into  and  crosses  the  valley 
of  many  streams  flowing  from  the  mountain, 
which  irrigate  a  region  of  wonderful  agricultural 
fertility.  Upon  these  uplands,  there  is  a  mag- 
nificent and  exhilarating  breeze,  constantly  blow- 
ing from  the  mountains.  Dark  Canons  appear 
and  disappear  as  the  Tourist  travels  on.  The 
afternoon  sun  often  reveals  glorious  displays  of 
sunset  colors  on  the  clouds,  thunder  storms  with 
lightning  often  give  wild  and  thrilling  effects. 
And  at  each  descent  from  the  upland  into  each 
little  valley,  the  view  is  one  of  beauty  and  pleas- 
ure. 

The  railroad  as  it  turns  East  from  Colorado 
Junction,  reveals  at  the  right,  the  busy  town  of 
Golden ;  a  mile  distant,  over  it,  towers  a  peak  of 
1,000  feet  high  and  down  the  little  valley  of 
Clear  Creek,  the  route  passes  till  your  terminus 
at  Denver. 

This  route  of  reaching  Denver  from  the  East 
must  be  specially  advantageous  to  Tourists. 

Hie  Cheyenne  Division,  Union  Pacific 
Railway,  also  runs  direct  from  Cheyenne, 
southward,  to  Denver,  and  trains  connect  with, 
the  mid-day  trains  of  the  Union  Pacific  Railway. 
The  distance,  106  miles,  is  mainly  over  a  vast 
level  plain,  covered  only  with  the  short  gray 
buffalo  grass,  but  parallel  with  the  main  range 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  twenty  to  thirty 
miles  from  their  eastern  base. 

Greeley — Named  in  honor  of  Horace  Gree- 
ley, and  settled  in  May,  1870.  The  colony 
possesses  about  100,000  acres  of  fine  alluvial  soil 
in  the  valley  of  the  Cache  la  Poudre  River. 


75 


Irrigating  ditches  have  been  constructed,  and 
there  is  an  abundance  of  water  for  all  agricul- 
tural purposes.  The  town  for  several  years  has 
increased  with  steady  rapidity,  and  the  popula- 
tion is  slightly  over  3,500.  At  this  place  are 
located  some  of  the  finest  grist-mills  of  the 
entire  "West.  The  place  has  achieved  consid- 
erable reputation  as  a  temperance  town. 

Denver  is  the  capital  of  the  State.  This 
has  become  a  large  railroad  point.  From  it 
diverge  the  Kansas  Division  Union  Pacific 
Railway,  636  miles  eastward  to  Kansas  City,  the 
Denver  and  Rio  Grande  Railroad,  Narrow 
"Tauge,  southward,  to  Canon  City,  Pueblo, 
Leadville,  Trinidad  and  San  Juan;  the  Denver 
and  South  Park  Division  Union  Pacific  Railway 
to  South  Park,  Leadville,  and  the  Gunnison 
country;  also  the  various  branches  of  the  Colo- 
rado Division  Union  Pacific  Railway  to  George- 
town, Idaho  Springs,  Central  City,  and  the 
mines  of  the  mountains.  In  course  of  con- 
struction are :  the  Denver  and  New  Orleans  Rail- 
way, running  to  the  southeast  to  connect  with 
the  Texas  system  of  railroads;  the  Denver, 
Western  and  Pacific  Railway,  running  north- 
west to  the  Boulder  County  coal-fields  and 
Longmart;  the  Denver,  Utah  and  Pacific 
Railroad,  running  westward  through  South 
Boulder  Canon  to  the  Middle  Park  country, 
while  the  projected  lines  are  almost  "  legion." 

Its  population  exceeds  40, 000,  and  its  location 
is  most  advantageous  for  easy  trade  and  com- 
munication with  all  the  principal  points  of  the 
Territory.  Located  on  an  open  plain,  about 
thirteen  miles  from  the  Rocky  Mountains,  there 
is  a  grand  view  of  the  entire  range  from  Long's 
Peak  on  the  north  to  Pike's  Peak  on  the  south, 
while  eastward,  northward  and  southward 
stretch  the  vast  upland  plains  which  are  so  im- 
pressive with  their  bouijdless  extent.  The  city  is 
full  of  thrift,  of  life,  and  trade  is  always  splen- 
did. The  buildings  which  grace  the  principal 
streets  are  made  principally  of  brick,  and  in 
general  appearance  are  superior  to  those  of  any 
city  west  of  the  Missouri  River.  Daily,  weekly 
and  monthly  newspapers  thrive.  Here  is  a 
branch  of  the  United  States  Mint,  gas-works, 
"water-works,  steam  heating  works,  electric 
light  works,  horse-railroads,  and  a  multitude  of 
hotels.  The  best  of  which  are  the  Windsor, 
Grand  Central,  Inter-Ocean,  American,  Went- 
worth,  Delmonico  and  Villa  Park.  Prom  this 
point  the  traveler  can  radiate  iu  all  directions 
in  search  of  pleasure  resorts. 

Notes  to  Tour  lifts. — The  uniform  railroad 
fare  in  the  State  averages  eight  cents  per  mile. 
Stage  routes  run  all  through  the  mountains,  fare 
from  ten  to  twenty  cents  per  mile.  The  uniform 
rate  of  board  is  four  dollars  per  day,  and  almost 
everywhere  can  be  found  excellent  living — the 
nicest  of  beefsteak,  bread  and  biscuit.  In  many 
of  the  mountain  resorts  plenty  of  good  fishing 


can  be  found,  and  delicate  trout  are  common 
viands  of  the  hotel  tables.  The  best  season  of 
the  year  for  a  visit  to  Colorado  is  in  July  and 
August,  as  then  the  snow  has  nearly  disap- 
peared from  the  mountains,  and  all  the  beauti- 
ful parks  and  valleys  are  easily  approachable. 
Those  who  wish  to  include  both  Colorado  and 
California  in  a  pleasure  trip  will  do  well  to 
visit  California  first,  during  April,  May  and 
June,  and  then  on  returning  spend  July  and 
August  leisurely  in  the  cosy  little  home  resorts 
of  Colorado. 

The  Denver  and  Rio  Grande  "Railroad 
will  carry  the  traveler  southward  from  Denver, 
along  the  base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  to  some 
of  the  most  noted  pleasure  resorts  of  the  State. 
This  little  narrow  gauge  is  a  wonder  of  itself, 
representing  nearly  $20,000,000  of  capital,  and 
operating  over  700  miles  of  road ;  it  has  devel- 
oped a  traffic  exceeding  $500,000  per  month, 
where  ten  years  ago  the  stage  route  did  not  real- 
ize $1,000  per  month,  and  the  prospects  for  the 
future  for  its  trade  with  the  miners  of  the  San 
Juan  country,  Leadville  and  Santa  Fe,  are  most 
encouraging,  as  the  new  gold  discoveries  become 
better  developed.  Seventy-six  miles  south  of 
Denver,  on  this  line,  are  clustered  three  little 
places  of  resort,  practically  one  in  interest 
— Colorado  Springs,  Colorado  City,  and 

Manltou  Springs. — The  former  is  the  rail- 
road station,  a  lively  town,  which  in  eight  years 
has  risen  from  the  prairie  to  a  population  of 
5,000.  Six  miles  distant  from  the  Springs  at 
Manitou,  are  collected  several  elegant  hotels, 
and  in  the  vicinity  are  numerous  soda  springs — 
iron  springs  and  medicinal  baths — of  great  vir- 
tue. The  location  of  this  resort,  with  its  won- 
derful collection  of  objects  of  natural  interest 
and  scenery,  has  earned  for  it  the  title  of 
"Saratoga  of  the  Far  West."  Travelers  find 
here  beatitiful  scenery  in  the  Ute  Pass — Garden 
of  the  Gods — Glen  Eyrie,  numerous  beautiful 
canons,  Queen  Canon — Cheyenne  Canon,  grand 
and  impressive,  and  towering  over  all  is  the  lofty 
summit  of  Pike's  Peak,  14,300  feet  high,  up 
which  ascends  a  trail  to  the  Government  Signal 
Station,  the  highest  in  the  United  States. 

In  this  vicinity  is  located  a  pretty  little  canon 
about  fifteen  miles  in  length,  with  walls  of  rock 
rising  to  a  uniform  height  of  600  and  800  feet 
above  a  very  narrow  foot  pass  below.  This  canon 
was  discovered  and  named,  in  1870,  by  a  party  of 
editors,  Williams'  Canon,  in  honor  of  H.  T.  Wil- 
liams, their  commander.  This  was  the  first  visit 
of  an  Eastern  party  of  any  notoriety  at  the 
Springs.  No  railroad  was  then  built,  and  not  a 
house  was  to  be  seen,  nor  even  a  ranchman's 
cabin.  The  scenery  of  this  canon  (see  illustra- 
tion) is  at  various  points  wild  in  the  extreme. 
The  can  on  boasts  several  noted  caves,  the  "Cave 
of  the  Winds  "  being  one  of  the  largest,  most 
beautiful  and  generally  attractive  in  the  country. 


76 


MOUNTAIN  OF  THE  HOLY  CROSS.   COLORADO. 


77 


Pleasure  travelers  are  uniformly  glad  that 
they  have  made  a  visit  to  these  points,  as  they 
excel  in  interest  any  other  points  in  the  Western 
trip.  Southward  from  Colorado  Springs,  the 
next  most  noted  resort  is  Canon  City  and  the 

Grand  Canon  of  the  Arkansas. — This  is 
a  scene  of  remarkable  beauty  and  magnificence ; 
at  one  point  can  be  seen  the  river  winding  its 
way  for  ten  miles,  at  the  base  of  huge  perpendic- 
ular rocks  which  rise  fully  1000  and  2000  feet 
above  the  current.  This  is  the  grandest  canon 
view  in  Colorado.  AVestward  from  Colorado 
Springs  is  the  South  Park,  a  noted  route  for 
travelers  who  enjoy  camping  out,  and  a  fine  drive 
through  the  mountains. 

Garden  of  the  Gods.  —  The  Beautiful 
Gate. — This  is  also  a  famous  pleasure  resort  at 
Manitou,  near  Colorado  Springs.  Midway  be- 
tween the  Station  and  Springs  is  located  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  and  curious  little  parks,  and 
upheaval  of  rocks  that  Western  scenery  can  dis- 
play. Descending  from  parallel  ridges  into  a 
little  park,  the  traveler  sees  in  front  of  him  a 
beautiful  gate  of  two  enormous  rocks,  rising  in 
massive  proportion  to  the  height  of  350  feet,  with 
a  natural  gateway  between  of  200  feet  in  width, 
with  a  small  rock  in  the  center.  Standing  a  little 
eastward,  the  observer  gets  the  view  illustrated  in 
our  engraving.  At  the  right  is  another  parallel 
ridge  of  rocks,  pure  white,  which  contrasts  finely 
with  the  dark  red  of  the  rocks  of  the  gate. 
Through  the  gate,  in  the  long  distance  is  seen 
the  summit  of  Pike's  Peak,  eighteen  miles  away. 
Around  these  rocks  is  a-  little  grassy  park  of  fifty 
or  more  acres,  in  which  according  to  the  mytholog- 
ical stories  of  the  people,  the  "gods"  found  such 
lovely  times  in  play  that  they  christened  it  a  gar- 
den. These  two  parallel  ridges  of  white  and  red 
rocks  extend  for  many  miles  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountains,  and  form  other  curious  formations  at 
Glen  Eyrie,  Monument  Park  and  Pleasant  Park, 
although  much  less  in  size  and  impress! veness. 

The  Dome  of  the  Continent— Gray's 
Peak. — Westward  fromDenver  sixty-five  miles, 
and  fourteen  from  Georgetown,  Colorado,  rises 
the  grandest  and  most  beautiful  of  the  moun- 
tains of  Colorado.  The  way  thither  is  one  of 
easy  approach,  via  the  Colorado  Division 
Union  Pacific  Railway,  through  the  magnifi- 
cent and  world-famous  Clear  Creek  Canon, 
past  Idaho  Springs,  one  of  the  most  charming  (  f 
.summer  resorts,  and  past  all  the  mines  of  Golden, 
Empire,  Georgetown,  and  the  silver  mines  of  the 
Palisades.  Near  to  the  summit  are  two  very  suc- 
cessful mines,  Baker  and  Stevens,  which  are  dug 
out  of  the  perpendicular  face  of  a  rock  fully  200 
feet  in  height.  Rising  above  all  the  ranges  of  the 
Colorado  Mountains  of  north  Colorado,  Gray's 
Peaks  are  the  grand  Lookout  Points,  from  which 
to  view  to  advantage  all  the  vast  mountain  range. 
In  a  clear  day  the  observer  can  embrace  in  his 
range  of  vision  a  distance  of  100  miles,  in  each 


direction,  northward,  southward  and  .westward, 
and  even  eastward  to  over  the  plains  east  of 
Denver.  From  this  point  are  plainly  discernible 
Pike's  Peak,  80  miles  away,  Mount  Lincoln,  50 
miles  ;  Mount  of  the  Holy  Cross,  60  miles ;  Long's 
Peak,  50  miles ;  the  City  of  Denver,  65  miles,  and 
even  the  summit  of  the  Spanish  Peaks,  150  miles 
southward,  and  the  higher  ranges  of  the  Uintah 
Mountains,  150  miles  westward.  The  total  range 
of  the  vision  being  not  less  than  200  to  250  miles. 
Beneath  them  at  the  foot,  lie  the  beautiful  rivers 
and  lakes  of  Middle  Park ;  southward  the  vast 
extended  plains  of  South  Park,  and  everywhere 
near  at  hand  multitudes  of  little  grassy  parks, 
like  valleys  dotted  with  the  groves  of  spruce  and 
pine,  as  if  planted  for  a  grand  pleasure  ground. 
The  height  of  the  Peak  is  14,351  feet,  and  is 
the  easiest  of  access  of  all  the  mountains  of  Colo- 
rado. Travelers  and  pleasure  tourists  who  desire 
one  grand  sight,  never  to  be  regretted,  must  not 
fail  to  include  this  in  their  Western  visit  for  the 
sublimity  and  grand  exaltation  as  from  so  lofty  a 
height  one  views  a  sea  of  huge  mountains,  is  a 
thing  always  to  live  in  one's  memory.  There  is  a 
fine  road  to  within  three  miles  of  the  summit, 
through  charming  verdure-clad  canons  and  val- 
leys and  the  rest  of  the  way  can  be  made  over  a 
fine  trail  by  horseback,  even  to  the  summit. 

Westward  from  Denver  are  Idaho  Springs, 
Georgetown,  Gray's  Peak,  Middle  Park,  Clear 
Creek,  and  Boulder  Canons,  with  the  mining  at- 
tractions of  Central  City,  Georgetown,  Empire, 
Caribou,  and  Black  Hawk,  where  the  observer 
can  witness  sights  of  extraordinary  beauty.  We 
can  not  possibly  describe  the  attractions  of  these 
resorts.  They  are  at  once  terrible,  overpower- 
ing, lonely,  and  full  of  indescribable  majesty. 
Amid  them  all  the  tourist  travels  daily,  imbib- 
ing the  life-giving,  beautiful,  fresh  air  full  of  its 
oxygen  to  quicken  and  stimulate  the  system ; 
the  eye  drinks  in  the  wealth  of  scenery,  and 
loves  to  note  the  beauties  of  the  wonderful  glow- 
ing sunlight,  and  the  occasional  cloud-storms, 
and  wild  display  of  power  and  glory. 

We  know  of  no  country  better  worth  the  title 
of  the  "  Switzerland  of  America  "  than  Colorado, 
with  its  beautiful  mountain  parks,  valleys,  and 
springs.  Go  and  see  them  all.  The  tour  will  be 
worthy  of  remembrance  for  a  life-time. 

The  editor  of  this  Guide  expects  soon  to  issue 
The  Colorado  Tourist,  devoted  more  especially  to 
the  attractions  of  Colorado,  as  the  limits  of  this 
Guide  can  not  begin  to  possibly  describe  a  hun- 
dredth part  of  the  objects  of  interest  within  that 
little  region — a  world  of  pleasure  travel  by  itself. 

Of  Life  in  Colorado, — a  prominent  writer 
has  said :  "  At  Denver  I  found,  as  I  thought,  the 
grade  of  civilization  actually  higher  than  in  most 
Western  cities.  In  elegance  of  building,  in  fin- 
ish, in  furniture,  in  dress  and  equipages,  that 
city  is  not  behind  any  this  side  of  the  Atlantic 
border.  The  total  absence  of  squalidity  and  vis- 


ible  poverty,  and  I  may  also  say  of  coarseness 
and  rowdyism,  impressed  me  on  my  visit  very 
strongly,  as  did  the  earnestness,  activity  and  in- 
tensity of  life  which  is  everywhere  so  apparent." 

P.  T.  Barnum  once  said  of  Colorado,  in  a  lec- 
ture :  "  Why,  Coloradoans  are  the  most  disap- 
pointed people  I  ever  saw.  Two-thirds  of  them 
came  here  to  die,  and  tney  can't  do  it.  This 
wonderful  air  brings  them  back  from  the  verge 
of  the  tomb,  and  they  are  naturally  exceedingly 
disappointed." 

The  average  temperature  is  about  60°  the  year 
round — the  air  is  bracing,  winter  mild,  and  days 
almost  always  full  of  clear  skies  and  bright  warm 
sunshine.  The  purity  and  dryness  of  the  atmos- 
phere are  proverbial. 

Mountain  of  the  Holy  Cross. — The  name 
of  this  remarkable  mountain  is  renowned  to  the 
ends  of  the  earth,  and  is  the  only  one  with  this 
name  in  the  world.  It  is  the  principal  mountain 
of  the  Sawatch  Range,  just  west  of  the  Middle 
Park  of  Colorado,  and  is  now  easy  of 
access.  The  Hayden  party  were  several  days  in 
merely  finding  an  accessible  way  of  travel  to 
reach  its  base.  The  characteristic  features  which 
give  it  its  name  is  the  vertical  face,  nearly  3,000 
feet  in  depth,  with  a  cross  at  the  upper  portion, 
the  entire  fissures  being  filled  with  snow.  The 
cross  is  of  such  remarkable  size  and  distinct  con- 
trast with  the  dark  granite  rock,  that  it  can  be 
seen  nearly  eighty  miles  away,  and  easily  dis- 
tinguished from  all  other  mountain  peaks.  The 
snow  seems  to  have  been  caught  in  the  fissure, 
which  is  formed  of  a  succession  of  steps,  and  here, 
becoming  well  lodged,  it  remains  all  the  year. 
Late  in  the  summer  the  cross  is  very  much  dimin- 
ished in  size  by  the  melting  of  the  snow.  A  beau- 
tiful green  lake  lies  at  the  base  of  the  peak,  almost 
up  to  the  timber  line,  which  forms  a  reservoir  for 
the  waters  from  the  melting  snows  of  the  high 
peaks.  From  this  flows  a  stream  with  many 
charming  cascades.  The  height  of  the  mountain 
is  14,176  feet  above  tide- water.  The  perpendicu- 
lar arm  of  the  cross  is  1,500  feet  in  length,  and 
fully  50  feet  in  breadth,  the  snow  lying  in  the 
crevice  from  50  to  100  feet  in  depth.  The  hori- 
zontal arm  varies  in  length  with  the  seasons,  but 
averages  700  feet.  The  mountain  was  ascended 
by  the  Hayden  party  only  with  the  greatest  diffi- 
culty, after  5,000  feet  of  climbing — fifty  pounds 
of  instruments  on  each  back,  and  obliged  to  pass 
thirty  hours  on  the  summit,  with  no  shelter,  pro- 
tection, fuel  or  provisions,  except  one  pocket 
lunch. 

New  Pleasure   Resorts  in   Colo- 
rado. 

Overland  tourists,  desiring  to  behold  the  grand- 
est scenery  in  America  should  stop  at  Cheyenne, 
and  visit  some  of  the  following  newly  opened 
resorts.  In  every  respect  the  title  of  THE 


AMERICAN  SWITZERLAND  is  well  deserved,  for 
the  wild,  weird,  majestic  and  colossal,  are  so  min- 
gled with  scenes  of  valley  loveliness  or  Alpine 
sublimity,  as  to  be  beyond  description.  You 
should  not  fail  to  visit 

JZstes  Park, — a  little  gem  of  parks,  the  pret- 
tiest in  Colorado, — easily  reached  by  stage  on 
every  side.  The  view  as  you  reach  the  rim  of 
the  park,  and  look  down  is  glorious  in  the  extreme. 
We  have  seen  none  of  Bierstadt's  paintings  to 
equal  it.  Cozy  hotels  are  found  in  the  park,  nice 
living,  cheap  prices,  saddle  horses  and  abundance 
of  trout  fishing.  A  few  days  can  be  spent  in 
the  midst  of  most  enchanting  park  and  mountain 
scenery.  A  rim  of  snow-capped  mountains  sur- 
rounds the  valley,  which  in  appearance  very  much 
resembles  an  English  park. 

Clear  Creek  Canon. — Do  not  fail  to  visit 
this,  one  of  the  wonders  of  Colorado.  A  little 
narrow  gauge  railroad  from  Denver  to  Golden, 
thence  pushes  its  way  right  up  the  course  of  the 
canon,  where  it  makes  its  way  between  the  tor- 
rent of  the  rapid  creek,  and  the  walls  of  stupen- 
dous rocks.  These  rocks  rise  1,000  to  2,000  feet 
in  elevation  of  almost  perpendicular  direction, 
and  succeed  one  another  in  the  most  inconceiva- 
ble wildness,  tortuosity  and  extreme  sublimityr 
alternating  with  extreme  wildness, — a  scene  of 
splendor  and  wonder.  The  grade  of  the  rail- 
road averages  over  100  feet  to  the  mile.  Upon 
this  road  are  three  places  worth  special  visits,. 
Central  City  where  are  rich  gold  mines,  and 
where  horses  can  be  obtained  for  the  ascent  of 
James  Peak, — or  Boulder  Pass  one  of  the  most 
magnificent  views  in  all  the  West,  —  Idaho 
Springs  is  celebrated  for  its  Soda  and  Sulphur 
Springs  which  are  great  help  to  invalids. 

Georgetown, — is  the  scene  of  rich  mines, 
and  from  this  place  are  many  routes  to  famous 
points  of  scenery.  Here  horses  can  be  engaged 
for  the  ascent  of  Grays  Peak,  a  tour  of  a  life- 
time, the  grandest  of  all  mountains  in  Colorado. 
Its  ascent  is  very  easy,  and  costs  but  trifling. 
No  tourist  should  omit  it,  as  you  can  behold  in 
a  clear  day  a  sea  of  mountains,  and  a  vision  of 
500  miles  before  your  astonished  gaze. 

The  Middle  Park.  —  From  Georgetown 
also  is  a  splendid  wagon  road  to  the  Hot  Sulphur 
Springs,  Middle  Park.  These  are  excellent  for 
all  who  feel  the  need  of  health, — a  grand  place 
for  camping  parties.  West  of  here  is  rich  fish- 
ing and  hunting,  and  the  scenery  of  the  Canon 
of  the  Grand,  on  the  west,  or  Grand  Lake  on  the 
east,  is  very  attractive.  From  this  place  one  can 
travel  on  horseback  the  entire  distance  across 
the  mountains  to  Utah,  with  little  inconvenience, 
trails  already  existing  in  the  valleys  of  rivers. 

Scenery  of  Southern  Colorado, — re- 
quires more  staging,  but  is  still  more  grand 
than  that  of  Northern  Colorado.  Here  are  the 
richest  mines  recently  discovered,  which  pro- 
duce half  a  million  dollars  per  week.  This  sec- 


tion  of  country  is  divided  into  two  parts.  The 
first  being  via  the  Denver  and  South  Park 
Division  Union  Pacific  Bail-way,  which  is  the 
principal  route  to  Leadville  and  the  Gunnison 
country.  The  scenery  near  here  is  most  in- 
spiring. The  canons  traversed  by  the  railway 
are  full  of  rugged  beauty;  while  ascending  the 
Platte  Canon,  the  grade  is  often  140  feet  to  the 
mile,  and  the  gorges  between  the  mountains  are 
often  2,000  feet  high.  The  ride  to  Leadville  is 
very  enjoyable,  across  the  South  Park,  in  view 
of  the  glorious  mountains.  At  Fairplay  you 
can  take  horses  for  an  ascent  up  Mount  Lincoln, 
14,299  feet  high.  The  view  here  is  finer  than 
from  Pike's  Peak.  Around  is  seen  a  sea  of  snow- 
capped peaks,  and  at  its  base  a  little  gem  of  a 
lake.  The  second  route  to  the  scenery  of 
Southern  Colorado  is  -via  the  Denver  and  Rio 
Grande  Railway.  From  Canon  City  no  finer 
ride  is  possible  than  an  excursion  to  Rosita,  and 
return;  thence  a  trip  up  the  Grand  Canon  of 
the  Arkansas,  and  on  through  the  Arkansas 
Valley  to  Twin  Lakes  would  be  most  glorious. 
A  person  visiting  Leadville  may  enter  this  route 
and  return  by  the  other  and  vice  vfrsa.  An- 
other tour  over  this  railroad  is  via  Pueblo  to 
Trinidad  and  Garland. 

Scenery  of  Veta  Pass. — This  is  one  of  the 
highest  railway  points  in  America,  9,339  feet 
•elevation.  The  scenery  is  extremely  peculiar. 
The  little  railroad  ascending  a  pretty  canon, 
beautifully  timbered  for  several  miles,  suddenly 
turns,  crosses,  and  returns  on  the  opposite  side 
ascending  in  a  steep  grade  of  211  feet  average 
to  the  mile,  until,  as  it  reaches  the  extreme 
crest  of  the  summit  of  the  Dump  Mountain, 
there  bursts  before  the  astonished  visitor  a 
glorious  vision.  To  the  south  the  Spanish 
Peaks,  to  the  north  Veta  Mountain,  and  to  the 
northwest  the  immense  form  of  Mount  Blanca, 
the  highest  of  the  range.  The  railroad  from 
this  crest  immediately  turns  and  follows  back 
on  the  ridge  only  a  few  feet  from  its  track  on 
the  other  side,  and  then  ascending,  amid 
timber,  passes  over  the  summit  of  the  divide 
into  the  San  Luis  Park,  whence  it  continues 
westward  to  the  San  Juan  Mountain  country, 
about  200  miles  distant,  where  is  not  only  the 
grandest  of  mountain  scenery,  but  also  infinite 
riches  of  mineral  wealth. 

Powder  River  Country. —  The  Powder 
River,  so  named  from  the  dark  powder-colored 
sand  in  its  bed,  rises  in  the  Big  Horn  Mountains, 
north  and  north-west  of  Old  Fort  Casper,  and 
runs  in  a  general  north-easterly  direction  till  it 
empties  into  the  Yellowstone  River.  It  drains  an 
immense  area  of  country,  flows  through  a  large 
region  of  fine  grazing  lands,  and  has  in  the  mount- 
ains and  hills  on  either  side,  untold  treasures  of 
rich  metals  and  precious  gems.  It  has  hitherto 
been  forbidden  ground  to  white  men,  but  those 
who  have  passed  through  it  give  glowing  descrip- 


tions of  its  luxuriant  fertility,  its  grand  scenery 
and  its  mineral  wealth.  It  will  be  one  of  the 
finest  grazing-regions  in  the  country,  producing 
vast  herds  of  cattle,  sheep  and  horses.  There 
are  also  heavy  bodies  of  timber  on  the  hills  and 
mountains  which  border  this  river.  Its  wonders 
are  just  beginning  to  be  told. 

The  Tongue  Hirer  Country. — This  is  sim- 
ilar to  that  borderin  the  Powder  River,  but  the 
soil  is  more  fertile  and  better  adapted  to  agri- 
cultural pursuits.  The  Tongue  River  rises  in 
the  Big  Horn  Mountains,  in  the  central  portion 
of  northern  Wyoming,  and  runs  north  into  the 
Yellowstone  River.  It  abounds  in  the  usual 
varieties  of  fish,  and  game  is  abundant  along  its 
banks.  It  is  a  very  crooked  stream. 

Color  ado  Junction — 522. 4  miles  from  Oma- 
ha, with  an  elevation  of  6, 325  feet — is  the  junction 
with  the  Colorado  Diy.  U.  P.  Railway.  As  you 
leave  Cheyenne,  looking  off  to  the  right,  you 
will  see  the  Black  Hills  of  Wyoming  stretching 
to  the  north,  and  you  will  wonder  how  you  are 
to  get  by  them.  To  the  left.  Long's  Peak  rears 
its  snow-capped  summit  high  into  the  air.  It  is 
one  of  the  famous  mountains  of  Colorado,  and 
you  have  a  better  view  of  it  on  the  Colorado 
Central  than  from  the  Union  Pacific.  It  is 
always  crowned  with  snow  and  frequently  ob- 
scured by  clouds.  How  grand  it  looks,  and  how 
huge  it  appears  in  the  distance. 

Otto, — 530.6  miles  from  Omaha,  and  6,724 
feet  above  the  sea.  Every  opportunity  for  ob- 
taining the  mountain  views,  both  to  the  right  and 
left,  should  be  observed  and  taken  advantage  of. 
This  is  the  usual  passing  place  where  the  ex- 
press trains  meet  from  East  and  West. 

Granite  Canon — is  the  next  station,  535.6 
miles  from  Omaha,  and  7,298  feet  in  altitude. 
You  approach  this  station  high  upon  the  side  of 
a  ravine,  and  through  deep  cuts  in  granite  spurs. 
Stunted  pines,  like  lone  sentinels,  are  seen  on 
the  bleak  hills.  Here  are  large  quarries  of 
stone  from  which  the  railroad  company's  build- 
ings at  Cheyenne  were  constructed.  The  cuts, 
through  a  reddish  granite,  are  short  but  very 
heavy.  Snow  sheds  are  now  quite  frequent. 

Btiford, — 542.5  miles  from  Omaha ;  eleva- 
tion, 7,780  feet.  It  is  a  telegraph  station.  As 
you  leave  it  on  your  left,  the  "  Twin  Mountains," 
two  peaks  in  the  Black  Hills,  lift  their  rocky 
heads  above  the  barren  waste  around  them. 
Near  these  mountains  the  noted  desperado,  Jack 
Slade,  once  had  his  retreat.  The  country  here  is 
covered  with  short  buffalo  grass,  cut  with  ravines 
and  draws,  abounding  in  fine  springs,  and  in 
places,  covered  with  pine  trees.  The  dark  hues 
of  the  pine  give  the  hills  their  name,  "black," 
and  in  places  the  timber  is  quite  heavy.  A  short 
distance  to  your  right,  Crow  Creek  rises  and 
winds  its  way  among  the  hills  to  the  plains  be- 
low. Four  and  a  half  miles  north  from  Buford, 
near  the  valley  of  Crow  Creek,  mines  of  copper 


81 


and  silver  have  been  discovered.  The  ore  assays 
over  $50  per  ton,  but  is  very  refractoiy.  Notice 
on  north  side  of  road  the  signboard,  "  Summit 
of  the  Mountains." 

Sherman — is  549.2  miles  from  Omaha,  at  an 
elevation  of  8,242  feet.  At  the  time  the  road 
was  completed  here,  it  was  the  highest  railroad 
point  in  the  world,  but  there  are  higher  places 
now  reached  by  rail  in  South  America.  It  has 
been  reached  by  an  ascent  so  gradual  that  you 
have  hardly  noticed  it.  In  the  past  few  years 
there  have  been  many  changes  in  grade  of  the 
Union  Pacific,  and  wherever  possible,  the  track 
has  been  raised  above  the  ,cuts,  so  the  snow, 
unless  in  immense  quantities,  now  causes  but 
little  impediment  to  travel.  At  Sherman,  the 
snow  never  falls  very  deep,  but  there  is  a  con- 


rnile,  and  the  maximum  grade  of  any  one  mile 
is  90  feet.  From  Sherman  to  Laramie,  the  dis- 
tance is  23.4  miles ;  the  average  grade  is  50  feet 
to  the  mile,  while  the  maximum  grade  of  any 
one  mile  is  the  same  as  on  the  eastern  slope — 90 
feet  to  the  mile.  These  grades  indicate  why 
this  route  across  the  Black  Hills  was  selected  in. 
preference  to  others  where  the  altitude  was  not 
as  great — the  approach  on  either  side  being  more 
gradual,  though  the  elevation  is  greater.  Nearly 
all  trains  between  Cheyenne  and  Laramie  have 
two  engines  attached  so  that  they  may  be  easily 
controlled.  It  is  a  steady  pull  to  the  summit, 
from  each  side,  and  the  heavy  down  grades  from 
it  require  a  great  deal  of  power  to  properly  con- 
trol trains.  About  4  mile  west  of  Sherman  on 
the  left  side  of  the  road,  is  "Reed's  Rock,"  so 


SKULL  ROCKS, 

stant  breeze,  that  most  Eastern  people  would 
pronounce  a  gale,  and  the  snow  is  constantly 
drifting  and  packs  so  hard  wherever  it  finds 
lodgment,  that  it  is  exceedingly  difficult  to  dis- 
place, requiring  an  immense  power  of  snOw- 
plows,  engines  and  shovelers.  As  you  approach 
Sherman,  you  will  see  the  balanced  rocks,  and  to 
the  right  of  the  station,  about  one-quarter  of  a 
mile,  is  a  rugged  peak,  near  which  are  graves  of 
some  who  are  quietly  sleeping  so  near  heaven, 
and  a  solitary  pine  tree,  like  a  sentinel  keeping 
guard  over  them.  Sherman  is  a  telegraph  sta- 
tion, has  a  hotel,  one  or  two  saloons,  several 
houses,  and  a  roundhouse  where  an  engine  is 
kept  for  use  in  cases  of  emergency.  The"  differ- 
ence in  elevation  between  this  place  and  Chey- 
enne is  2,201  feet,  and  distance  nearly  33  miles. 
The  average  grade  from  Cheyenne  is '67  feet  per 


NEAR  SHERMAN. 

called  from  one  of  the  civil  engineers  who  laid 
out  the  road.  Something  like  two  hundred 
feet  to  the  eastward  of  the  station,  and  on 
the  north  side  of  the  track,  there  may  be 
seen  a  post,  bearing  the  important  announce- 
ment that  this  is  the  -'Summit  of  the  Rocky  Mount- 
ains." Station  is  named  after  General  Sherman. 
Date  Creek  Bridge — is  about  two  miles 
west  of  Sherman.  This  bridge  is  built  of  iron, 
and  seems  to  be  a  light  airy  structure,  but  is 
really  very  substantial.  The  creek,  like  a  thread 
of  silver,  winds  its  devious  way  in  the  depths  be- 
low, and  is  soon  lost  to  sight  as  you  pass  rapidly 
down  the  grade  and  through  the  granite  cuts  and 
snow  sheds  beyond.  This  bridge  is  650  feet  long, 
and  nearly  130  feet  high,  and  is  one  of  the  won- 
ders on  the  great  trans-continental  route.  A 
water  tank,  just  beyond  it,  is  supplied  with  water 


82 


DALE  CREEK  BRIDGE. 


from  the  creek  by  means  of  a  steam  pump.  The 
buildings  in  the  valley  below  seem  small  in  the 
distance,  though  they  are  not  a  great  way  off. 
The  old  wagon  road  crossed  the  creek  down  a 
ravine,  on  the  right  side  of  the  track,  and  the 
remains  of  the  bridge  may  still  be  seen.  This 
stream  rises  about  six  miles  north  of  the  bridge, 
and  is  fed  by  numerous  springs  and  tributaries, 
running  in  a  general  southerly  direction,  until  it 
empties  into  the  Cache  La  Poudre  River.  The 
old  overland  road  from  Denver  to  California 
ascended  this  river  and  creek  until  it  struck 
the  head-waters  of  the  Laramie.  Leaving  Dale 
Creek  bridge,  the  road  soon  turns  to  the  right, 
and  before  you,  on  the  left,  is  spread  out,  like  a 
magnificent  panorama, 

The  Great  Laramie  Plains.  —  These 
plains  have  an  average  width  of  40  miles,  and 
are  100  miles  in  length.  They  begin  at  the 
western  base  of  the  Black  Hills  and  extend  to 
the  slope  of  the  Medicine  Bow  Mountains,  and 
north  beyond  where  the  Laramie  River  cuts 
its  way  through  these  hills  to  join  its  waters 
with  the  North  Platte.  They  comprise  an  area 
of  over  two  and  a  half  millions  of  acres,  and 
are  regarded  as  one  of  the  richest  grazing  por- 
tions of  country.  Across  these  plains,  and  a 
little  to  the  left,  as  you  begin  to  glide  over  them, 
rises  in  full  view  the  Diamond  Peaks  of  the 
Medicine  Bow  Range.  They  are  trim  and  clear- 
cut  cones,  with  sharp  pointed  summits — a  fact 
which  has  given  them  their  name,  while  their 
sides,  and  the  rugged  hills  around  them,  are  cov- 
ered with  timber.  Still  farther  in  the  shadowy 
distance,  in  a  south-westerly  direction,  if  the 
atmosphere  is  clear,  you  will  see  the  white  sum- 
mits of  the  Snowy  Range — white  with  their 
robes  of  perpetual  snow.  Even  in  the  hottest 
weather  experienced  on  these  plains,  it  makes 


one  feel  chilly  to  look  at  them,  they  are  so  cold, 
cheerless  and  forbidding. 

In  the  hills  we  have  just  passed,  there  is  an 
abundance  of  game,  such  as  mountain  sheep, 
bear,  antelope,  and  an  occasional  mountain  lion, 
while  Dale  Creek  and  all  the  little  brooks  which 
flow  into  the  South  Platte  River  are  filled  with 
trout.  The  speckled  beauties  are  not  found 
however,  in  the  streams  which  flow  into  the 
North  Platte.  This  is  a  well-established  fact, 
and  we  have  yet  failed  to  discover  any  satisfac- 
tory reason  for  it,  though  some  of  these  brooks, 
flowing  in  opposite  directions,  head  not  more 
than  fifty  yards  apart. 

Skull  Rocks. — These  rocks,  found  near  Dale 
Creek,  are  excellent  samples  of  the  granite  rocks 
which  are  so  abundant  in  this  section,  and  show 
how  they  bear  the  effects  of  the  severe  weather. 
All  the  massive  rocks,  wrhich,  like  the  ruins  of 
old  castles,  are  scattered  all  over  the  Black  Hills, 
were  once  angular  in  form,  and  square  masses, 
which  in  time  have  been  worn  to  their  present 
forms  by  the  disintegrating  effects  of  the  atmos- 
phere. 

Tie-Siding, — 555.2  miles  from  Omaha;  ele- 
vation, 7,985  feet.  This  is  a  telegraph  station, 
A  well-worn  and  much  traveled  road  leads 
hence  across  the  prairies  southward  to  the 
mountains  of  Diamond  Peaks,  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  which  are  obtained  ties,  fence- 
poles  and  wood.  There  are  a  few  houses, 
and  the  inevitable  saloon — houses  occupied  most- 
ly by  woodchoppers  and  teamsters — while  the 
saloons  generally  take  the  most  of  their  money. 
A  short  distance  from  this  station  two  soldiers 
of  an  Iowa  cavalry  regiment  were  killed  by  In- 
dians at  the  overland  stage  station,  in  1865.  The 
pine  board  and  mound  which  marks  their  resting- 
place  will  soon  disappear,  and  there  will  be  noth- 


83 


ing  left  to  mark  the  spot  where  they  fell.  Near 
Tie-Siding  are  extensive  ranches  occupied  by 
sheep  during  the  summer.  The  general  direction 
of  the  traveler  is  now  north.  In  fact,  after  leav- 
ing Dale  Creek  bridge,  you  turn  towards  the 
north,  and  continue  in  that  direction,  sometimes 
even  making  a  little  east,  until  you  pass  Rock 
Creek  Station,  a  distance  of  about  seventy  miles 
by  rail.  We  have  now  fairly  entered  upon  the 
great  Laramie  Plains.  The  next  station  is 

Iffirtiei/, — simply  a  side  track,  559.3  miles 
from  the  eastern  terminus,  with  an  elevation  of 
7,857  feet.  We  are  going  down  grade  now  pretty 
fast.  The  old  stage  road  can  be  seen  to  the  left, 
•and  the  higher  mountains  of  the  Medicine  Bow 
Range  shut  in  the  western  view. 

Red  Buttes, — near  the  base  of  the  western 
slope  of  the  Black  Hills — is  563.8  miles  from 
Omaha ;  elevation,  7,336  feet.  So-called  from 
the  reddish  color  of  the  Buttes  between  Harney 
and  this  place,  on  the  right  side  of  the  track. 
This  red  appearance  of  the  soil  on  both  hill  and 
plain,  indicates  the  presence  of  iron.  It  would 
seem  that  at  some  remote  period  the  whole  valley 
was  on  a  level  with  the  top  of  these  Buttes,  and 
they,  composed  of  harder  and  more  cohesive  sub- 
stance than  the  soil  around,  have  withstood  the 
drain  and  wash  of  ages,  while  it  has  settled 
away.  They  are  of  all  sorts  of  shapes.  The 
nearest  about  half  a  mile  from  the  track,  and  ex- 
cite no  little  interest  from  their  peculiar  forms, 
in  the  mind  of  the  traveler  who  is  at  al]  curious 
on  such  subjects ;  some  of  them  are  isolated, 
and  then  again  you  will  see  them  in  groups. 
There  are  quite  a  number  insight  from  the  car 
windows,  and  their  close  inspection  would  war- 
rant the  tourist  in  stopping  at  Laramie  and 
making  them  and  other  objects  in  the  vicinity  a 
visit.  Red  Buttes  is  a  telegraph  station,  with  a 
few  settlers  in  the  neighborhood.  These  plains 
have  been  called  the  paradise  for  sheep ;  but  of 
this  subject  we  will  speak  in  another  place. 

Fort  Sanders, — 570.3  miles  from  Omaha; 
elevation  7,163  feet.  This  is  a  station  for  the 
military  post  which  was  established  here  in  June, 
1866,  by  Col.  H.  M.  Mizner  of  the  18th  United 
States  Infantry.  Its  buildings  for  both  officers 
and  men  are  mainly  of  logs,  and  many  of  them 
are  both  substantial  and  comfortable.  The  post 
can  be  seen  from  a  long  distance  in  every 
•direction ;  is  close  to  the  track  and  on  the  old 
military  road  leading  across  the  Black  Hills  by 
way  of  Cheyenne  Pass  to  Fort  Walbach  at  the 
eastern  base  of  the  hills,  now  abandoned,  and  to 
the  military  posts  near  Cheyenne.  It  will  prob- 
ably be  abandoned  in  a  short  time. 

Laramie — is  572.8  miles  from  Omaha,  and 
7,123  feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  the  end  of  a  divi- 
sion of  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad,  one  of  the 
largest  towns  on  the  road,  has  large  machine  and 
repair  shops,  and  is  likely  to  become  the  largest 
city  on  the  road  in  Wyoming.  It  is  located  on. 


the  Laramie  Biver,  in  the  midst  of  the  Laramie 
Plains,  has  fully  3,000  people,  is  the  county- 
seat  of  Albany  County,  has  numerous  churches 
and  schools,  several  public  buildings,  brick  and 
stone  blocks,  with  streets  regularly  laid  out  at 
right  angles  to  the  railroad;  is  well  watered 
from  one  of  the  mountain  streams  in  the  vicin- 
ity, and  altogether  is  one  of  the  most  promis- 
ing towns  on  the  line  of  the  road.  It  is  called 
the  "  Gem  City  of  the  Mountains,"  and  its  alti- 
tude and  close  proximity  to  the  hills  behind  it 
give  it  a  fair  show  for  the  name.  The  rolling 
mills  of  the  company,  giving  employment  to 
from  200  to  300  men,  are  located  and  in  opera- 
tion here,  in  the  northern  limits  of  the  city. 
The  water-power  in  the  Laramie  Biver  will  also 
soon  be  utilized  in  the  erection  of  woolen  mills 
and  factories  for  refining  soda  and  other  min- 
erals with  which  this  country  abounds.  The 
mineral  resources  of  Wyoming  have  not  been 
developed.  The  slight  explorations  which  have 
thus  far  been  made  only  demonstrate  the  fact 
of  their  existence  in  untold  quantities.  Lara- 
mie, for  instance,  has  within  a  radius  of  thirty 
miles  the  following  named  minerals:  Antimony, 
cinnabar,  gold,  silver,  copper,  lead,  plumbago, 
iron,  red  hematite  iron,  brown  hematite,  specu- 
lar iron,  sulphate  of  soda,  gypsum,  kaolin  or 
porcelain  clay,  fire  clay,  brick  clay,  coal,  sand, 
limestone,  fine  quality;  sandstone  for  building 
purposes  within  two  miles  of  the  city,  and  good 
wagon  roads  to  all  the  places  where  these  ma- 
terials are  found. 

Sheep  Raising. — We  have  before  remarked 
that  the  Laramie  Plains  are  a  paradise  for  sheep. 
But  the  sheep  require  hay  and  shelter  in  order 
to  be  successfully  carried  through  the  storms 
of  winter.  It  is  also  true  that  this  hay  may  not 
be  needed,  or  but  a  little  of  it  used,  but  every 
preparation  for  safety  requires  that  it  should  be 
on  hand  to  be  used  if  necessary.  The  winter 
is  rare  indeed,  in  this  locality,  that  makes 
twenty  successive  days'  feeding  a  necessity. 
Usually  the  storms  last  two  or  three  days,  per- 
haps not  as  lofng,  when  hay  and  shelter  are 
required.  The  climate  is  healthy,  and  seems 
especially  adapted  to  sheep.  If  brought  here 
in  a  sound  and  healthy  condition,  they  will  re- 
main so  with  ordinary  care,  and  the  climate 
alone  has  been  effectual  in  curing  some  of  the 
diseases  to  which  they  are  subject.  Among  the 
shepherd  kings  of  the  plains  may  be  mentioned 
the  firms  of  Hutton,  Alsop  &  Co. ,  King  &  Lane, 
Bumsey  &  Co.,  T.  J.  Fisher  &  Co.,  and  others. 
The  firm  first  named  have  about  15,000  in  their 
flock,  and  have  accommodations  at  their  differ- 
ent ranches  for  20,000  sheep.  They  place  this 
number  aa  the  limit  of  their  flock.  Their 
home  ranch  is  on  the  Laramie  Biver,  about 
fifteen  miles  from  the  city,  and  is  worthy  of  a 
visit  from  any  traveler  who  desires  information 
on  the  subject.  Their  sheep  are  divided  into 


flocks  of  about  2,500  each;  this  number  is  all 
that  can  be  well  cared  for  in  a  flock.  One 
man,  a  pony,  and  one  or  two  good  shep- 
herd dogs  are  all  that  are  necessary  to  care 
for  a  flock,  though  some  flocks  are  cared 
for  without  the  pony  or  dogs.  Mexican 
herders  or  shepherds  are  considered  the 
best,  and  usually  cost  about  $25  per  month 
and  board.  They  have  long  been  accus- 
tomed to  the  business  in  New  Mexico, 
and  the  most  of  them  don't  know  enough 
to  do  anything  else.  The  wool  of  graded 
sheep  will  usually  more  than  pay  all  the 
expenses  of  the  flock,  leaving  the  increase 
as  clear  profit,  and  the  increase  depends 
to  a  large  extent  on  how  well  tn8  flock 
is  managed — it  is  ordinarily  eighty  per  cent. 
Some  have  had  an  increase  of  tii3ir  flocks 
as  large  as  ninety  per  cent.,  others  as  low 
as  sixty  per  cent.  Some  of  the  successful 
sheep  men  have  begun  their  flocks  with. 
Spanish  Merinos,  others  with  French  Merinos, 
others  with  Cotswolds,  and  others  still  with 
Mexican  sheep.  These  last  are  very  hardy, 
have  small  bodies  and  coarse  wool.  The  ewes 
are  usually  good  mothers,  and  all  of  them  will 
hunt  and  dig  through  the  snow  for  grass, 
while  other  breeds  would  not.  Mexican  sheep 
will  live  and  thrive  where  tenderly  raised 
Eastern  sheep  will  die.  They  are  cheap 
and  easily  graded  up.  On  the  other  hand, 
when  once  acclimated,  graded  sheep  cost 
no  more  care  than  others,  and  their  wool 
will  bring  double  the  price  in  the  mar- 
ket. Each  class  of  sheep  has  its  advocates 
on  these  plains,  and  each  class  has  been  suc- 
cessful. The  climate  of  the  country,  and  the 
peculiar  adaptation  of  the  plains  for  grazing  of 
this  nature,  makes  success  more  certain  than  in 
similar  attempts  farther  east;  hence  we  predict 
for  this  part  of  the  country  a  vast  wealth  in 
flocks  of  sheep  at  no  distant  date. 

Stock  Statistics. — The  total  number  of 
stock  grazing  on  the  plains  of  Laramie  County 
at  last  estimate  (1880)  was  as  follows:  Sheep, 
120,000  head,  worth  $3,  value,  $360,000; 
horned  cattle,  110,000  head,  worth  $20,  value 
$2,200,000;  horses  and  mules,  4,200  head, 
worth  $50,  value,  $210,000.  Total,  $2,770,000. 

Early  Times. — In  April,  1868,  the  first  town 
lots  in  Laramie  were  sold  by  the  railroad  com- 
pany. There  was  a  great  rush  for  town  lots — 
excitement  ran  very  high,  and  the  history  of 
Cheyenne  in  this  respect,  where  men  made  for- 
tunes in  a  day,  was  repeated  here.  In  fact, 
a  month  or  two  prior  to  the  beginning  of 
the  sale,  the  town  site  was  covered  with 
wagons,  tents,  dugouts,  etc. ,  of  parties  waiting 
for  the  day  of  sale.  With  that  sale,  the  set- 
tlement of  the  town  began.  The  first  week 
there  were  over  four  hundred  lots  sold,  and 
building  began  rapidly.  In  less  than  two  weeks 


85 


something  over  500  buildings  and  structures  of 
some  kind  had  been  erected.  This  was  an  ex- 
ample of  western  growth  that  would  astonish  the 
slow-going  denizens  of  the  Atlantic  States.  It  is 
true  these  structures  were  of  a  peculiar  character, 
and  such  as  were  usually  found  in  the  towns  for 
the  time  being  made  the  business  terminus  of  the 
road.  Some  were  of  logs,  some  of  cross-ties,  others 
were  simply  four  posts  set  in  the  ground  with  can- 
vas sides  and  roofs.  Others  still  were  made  of 
boards,  in  sections,  and  easy  to  be  moved  when 
the  next  terminus  should  be  made  known. 

The  iron  rails  that  were  soon  to  bear  the  iron 
horse  were  laid  past  the  town  on  the  9th  day  of 
May,  1868,  and  on  the  day  following,  the  first 
train  arrived  and  discharged  its  freight.  Lara- 
mie  maintained  the  character  of  all  these  west- 


who  were  respectable,  and  who  desired  to  do  a 
legitimate  business  could  not  endure  for  a  long 
time,  the  presence  and  rascalities  of  these  border 
characters.  There  being  no  law  in  force,  the 
next  best  thing  was  a  resort  to  "lynch  law." 
This  was  the  experience  of  Laramie. 

Laramie  is  now  an  orderly,  well-governed  city, 
where  the  rights  of  person  and  property  are  re- 
spected, and  forcibly  reminds  one  of  the  quiet 
towns  in  the  East.  All  saloons  and  other  places 
of  like  character,  are  closed  on  the  Sabbath,  the 
churches  are  well  attended,  and  the  schools  are  lib- 
erally patronized.  It  is  one  of  the  most  attrac- 
tive towns  on  the  line  of  the  Union  Pacific 
road,  and  offers  many  advantages  to  those  who 
desire,  for  any  reason,  a  change  of  location. 

In  addition  to  other  public  institutions   else- 


EARLY  MORNING  SCENE   ON  THE   LARAMIE  PLAINS. 


ern  towiia  -n  the  early  days  of  their  settlement. 
The  same  class  of  human  beings  that  had  popu- 
lated and  depopulated  North  Platte,  Julesburg, 
Cheyenne,  and  other  places,  lived  and  flourished 
here  until  the  next  move  was  made.  They  were 
gamblers,  thieves,  prostitutes,  murderers — bad 
men  and  women  of  every  calling  and  description 
under  the  heavens,  and  from  almost  every  nation- 
ality on  the  globe — and  when  they  could  prey 
upon  no  one  else,  would,  as  a  matter  of  course, 
prey  upon  each  other.  The  worst  that  has  ever 
been  written  of  these  characters  does  not  depict 
the  whole  truth ;  they  were,  in  many  cases,  out- 
laws from  the  East — fled  to  escape  the  conse- 
quences of  crimes  committed  there,  and  each 
man  was  a  law  unto  himself.  Armed  to  the  very 
teeth,  it  was  simply  a  word  and  a  shot,  and 
inany  times  the  shot  came  first.  Of  course  those 


where  mentioned,  Laramie  has  the  location  of 
the  territorial  penitentiary,  a  small  wing  of 
which  is  already  constructed,  and  which  is 
plainly  visible  only  a  short  distance  west  of  the 
railroad  track.  A  good  hotel  is  kept  at  the 
old  depot.  For  years  it  was  a  regular  dining 
station,  and  is  still  one  of  the  most  important 
and  interesting  places  on  the  Omaha  route, 
but  the  dining  station  has  recently  been  trans- 
ferred to  Rock  Creek,  fifty-two  miles  farther 
west,  the  better  to  accommodate  the  hour  of  din- 
ing to  the  wants  of  travelers.  With  a  manu- 
factory for  soda,  and  the  mines  of  this 
article  properly  developed,  Laramie  will  sup- 
ply the  world  with  soda  enough  to  raise  not 
only  biscuits  and  bread,  but  no  small  sum  of 
money  as  a  return  for  the  investment.  The 
rolling  mills  and  machine  and  repair  shops  of 


86 


the  company  are  sources  of  perpetual  trade  and 
income,  and  must  of  necessity  increase  with  the 
annually  increasing  business  of  the  company.  A 
visit  to  the  soda  lakes,  gold  mines,  Iron  Mount- 
ain, Red  Buttes  and  other  places  of  interest  in 
the  vicinity,  together  with  good  hotel  accommo- 
dations, will  sure- 
ly lure  the  trav- 
eler to  spend  a 
few  days  in  this 
"  Gem  city  of  the 
Mountains." 

Li  a  r  a  m  i  e 
JPeafc.— This  is 
the  highest  peak 
of  the  Black  Hills 
Range  in  Wyom- 
ing and  Colorado, 
north  of  Long's 
Peak,  and  is  about 
10,000  feet  high. 
The  Hayden  ex- 
pi  o  r  i  n  g  party, 
who  were  en- 
camped at  its 
base,  describe  wit- 
nessing a  sunset 
scene  of  rare 
beauty.  The  sun 
passed  down  di- 
rectly behind  the 
summit  of  Lara- 
mie  Peak.  The 
whole  range  of 
mountains  was 
gilded  with  a 
golden  light,  and 
the  haziness  of  the 
atmosphere  gave 
to  the  whole  scene 
a  deeper  beauty. 
The  valleys  at  the 
base  of  the  Cotton- 
wood  and  Laramie 
Rivers  are  full  of 
pleasant  little 
streams  and 
grassy  plains. 
Sometimes  these 
valleys  expand 
out  into  beautiful 
oval  park-like 
areas,  which  are 
favorite  resorts  of 
wild  game,  and 
would  be  exceedingly  desirable  for  settlements. 
Emigrants  would  find  here  beautiful  scenery, 
pure  air  and  water,  and  a  mild  and  extremely 
healthy  climate.  Cereals  and  roots  could  be  easily 
raised,  and  stock-raising  could  be  made  a  source 
of  wealth  to  them  and  the  whole  community. 

The  Windmills  of  the  Union  rdciflc 


HUNTING  IN  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 


Railway.  — The  traveler  notices  with  interest 
the  ever  frequent  windmills  which  appear  at 
every  station,  and  are  such  prominent  objects 
over  the  broad  prairies.  They  are  used  for  sup- 
plying the  locomotives  and  station  houses  with 
water.  Probably  no  finer  specimens  exist  in  the 

United  States  than 
are  found  on  the 
lines  of  this  road. 
In  these  tanks 
is  a  large  hollow 
globe  floating  in 
the  water.  These 
globes  are  so  con- 
nected with  lev- 
ers that  when  the 
water  has  reached 
a  certain  height,, 
the  slats  or  fans 
are  thrown  in  line 
with  the  wind,  and 
the  machine  stops. 
As  the  water  is 
drawn  off  for  sup- 
plying the  locomo- 
tives, the  ball  falls, 
and  the  machine 
is  again  put  in  mo- 
tion. They  are 
thus  self-regula- 
ting and  self-act- 
ing. The  water  is 
thrown  up  by  a 
forcing  pump.  A 
curious  fact  may 
be  here  mention- 
ed. These  tanks, 
when  closely  cov- 
ered, have  thus  far 
proved  that  there 
is  enough  caloric 
in  the  water  to 
prevent  it  from 
freezing. 

Wind  River 
Mo  u  ntains. — 
These  mountains, 
seen  on  the  map 
and  just  north  of 
the  railroad,  are 
destined  soon  to 
celebrity,  for  their 
mining  value,  al- 
though as  yet  but 
partially  explored. 
Two  well-known  peaks  rise  among  them,  Fre- 
mont's Peak  and  Snow's  Peak,  the  latter  being  the 
highest;  its  elevation  is  given  by  Fremont  as  13,570 
feet.  The  mountains  are  filled  with  a  dense 
growth  of  a  species  of  the  nut  pine,  which  fur- 
nishes food  for  innumerable  birds  and  squirrels, 
and  supplies  the  Indians  with  their  favorite  food.. 


87 


Indian  Burial  Tree. — Among  the  Indian 
tribes  there  are  quite  a  number  whose  custom  is 
to  honor  their  dead  with  burial  places  in  the  tops 
of  favored  trees.  The  Comanches,  Apaches, 
Cheyennes,  Arrapahoes  and  Kiowas  all  do  this. 
After  an  Indian  is  dead,  his  corpse  is  securely 
wrapped  like  a  mummy ;  with  it  are  put  food, 
arms,  tobacco,  etc., — which  its  spirit  is  supposed  to 
want  in  his  trip  to  the  happy  hunting-ground, — 
and  the  whole  covered  with  an  outer  covering 
made  of  willows.  All  the  Indians  of  the  tribe 
celebrate  mourning  both  before  and  after  this  is 
done ;  then  the  body  is  placed  upon  a  platform, 
constructed  in  some  old  tree,  usually  a  large  cot- 
ton-wood. The  feet  of  the  departed  Indian  are 
turned  with  care  to  the  southward,  for  thither 
resides  the  Great  Spirit, — so  the  Indians  say — 
and  thither  he  is  going.  In  some  of  their  favor- 


Wyoming.  They  are  really  the  first  range  of 
the  Rockies.  They  begin  at  the  valley  of  the 
North  Platte  River,  directly  south  oi  Fort  Fet- 
terman,  and  unite  with  the  Medicine  Bow  Range, 
in  northern  Colorado,  south-west  from  Sherman. 
Laramie  Peak  and  Reed's  Peak,  north  of  the 
Laramie  Canon,  are  the  highest  peaks  in  this 
range.  The  waters  which  flow  from  them  east  of 
the  Black  Hills,  and  those  which  flow  west  from 
the  Medicine  Bow  Range,  all  unite  in  the  North 
Platte  River,  which  describes  a  half  circle  around 
their  northern  extremity,  and  then  flows  east- 
ward to  the  Missouri  River.  This  range  of 
mountains,  as  before  stated,  is  crossed  at  Sher- 
man. They  have  not  been  prospected  to  any 
great  extent  for  the  precious  metals,  but  gold, 
silver,  copper,  iron  and  other  minerals  are  known 
to  exist.  Iron  is  found  in  large  quantities. 


INDIAN  BURIAL  TREE,  NEAR  FORT  LARAMIE. 


ite  groves,  as  many  as  eight  or  ten  bodies  have 
been  found  in  a  single  tree.  Another  mode  of 
burial  is  to  erect  a  scaffold  on  some  prominent 
knoll  or  bluff.  These  customs  are  prevalent 
among  those  Indian  tribes  which  are  most  rov- 
ing, and  live  in  the  saddle.  « Foot  Indians," 
those  which  inhabit  the  plains,  and  are  peaceable, 
most  invariably  bury  their  dead  in  the  ground — 
always,  however,  accompanied  with  such  good 
things  as  he  will  need  in  his  trips  thereafter  in 
the  new  hunting-grounds. 

The  Black  Hills  of  Wyoming,  and  the 
Medicine  Bow  Range. — In  going  west,  the 
first  range  of  real  mountains  the  traveler  meets 
with  are  what  are  called  the  Black  Hills  of 


About  18  miles  north-east  from  Laramie  is  Iron 
Mountain,  on  the  head  of  Chugwater  Creek.  It 
is  said  to  be  nearly  pure,  and  will  some  day  be 
developed.  There  has  been  talk  of  a  railroad 
from  Cheyenne  with  a  branch  to  this  mountain, 
but  nothing  has  been  done  yet.  In  searching 
for  a  route  for  the  Union  Pacific  Railway,  a 
survey  of  the  Laramie  Canon  was  made,  but 
it  was  found  to  be  impracticable  for  a  railroad. 
It,  however,  has  grand  scenery,  and  will  become 
a  place  of  resort,  by  tourists,  as  soon  as  the  In- 
dian question  is  settled.  The  Black  Hills  virtu- 
ally connect  with  the  Medicine  Bow  Range  at 
both  extremities,  bearing  to  the  left  around  the 
circle  of  the  North  Platte,  and  to  the  right  south 


MEDICINE  BOW  MOUNTAINS, 

of  Sherman.  The  canons  of  both  the  Laramie 
and  Platte  Rivers  are  rugged  and  grand.  Lara- 
mie Peak  has  an  elevation  of  10,000  feet,  and 
lies  in  plain  view  off  to  the  right  from  Lookout 
to  Medicine  Bow  Stations. 

Crossing  the  Black  Hills,  the  road  strikes  the 
Laramie  Plains,  and  then  the  Medicine  Bow 
Range  rises  grandly  before  you.  At  Laramie 
City — the  road  running  north — you  look  west 
and  behold  Sheep  Mountain  in  front,  whose  sum- 
mit is  10,000  feet  above  the  sea ;  to  the  left  of 
this  is  Mt.  Agassiz,  so  named  in  honor  of  the 
distinguished  scientist  who  gave  his  life  to  the 
cause  ne  loved  so  well.  To  the  right  of  Sheep 


FROM   MEDICINE   BOW  RIVER. 


Mountain,  which  is  in  the  Medicine  feow  Range, 
you  discover  what  seems  to  be  a  large  depression 
in  the  mountains.  This  is  where  the  Little  Lara- 
mie River  heads,  and  across  it,  to  the  right,  still 
other  peaks  of  this  range  lift  their  snowy  heads. 
The  range  is  now  on  your  left  until  you  pass 
around  its  northern  bend  and  into  the  North 
Platte  Valley  again  at  Fort  Steele.  On  the 
northern  extremity,  Elk  Mountain  looms  up,  the 
best  view  of  which  can  be  obtained  as  you  pass 
from  Medicine  Bow  Station  to  Fort  Steele,  pro- 
vided, of  course,  you  look  when  the  foot  hills  do 
not  obscure  your  vision.  The  Medicine  Bow 
Range  is  also  full  of  the  precious  metals,  mostly 


89 


gold,  but  has  not  been  developed.  This 
range  is  also  heavily  timbered,  and  abounds 
in  game,  and,  except  the  highest  peaks,  is 
free  from  snow  in  the  summer.  The  timber 
is  mostly  pine,  and  immense  quantities  are 
annually  cut  for  railroad  ties,  telegraph  and 
fence  poles  and  wood.  Nearly  every  ranch 
on  the  Laramie  Plains  is  supplied  with  poles 
for  corrals,  sheds  and  fences  from,  the  Black 
Hills  or  Medicine  Bow  Range.  The  Lara- 
mie  Plains  is  the  great  basin  between  these 
two  ranges,  and  the  road  has  to  pass  north- 
ward a  long  distance  in  order  to  find  its 
way  out.  The  only  marble  yet  discovered 
in  the  Western  country  ot  real  value,  so 
ffir  as  we  know,  is  the  deposit  owned  by 
the  Wyoming  Marble  Companv,  and  located 
twenty-five  miles  north  of  Laramie  City, 
twelve  miles  from  the  line  of  the  Union 
Pacific  Railway.  The  ledge  is  eighty  feet 
wide,  has  been  traced  for  ten  miles  on 
its  surface,  and  prospected  to  a  depth  of 
one  hundred  feet  without  reaching  bot- 
tom. Leaving  the  grand  views  of  these 
mountains,  vhe  traveler  enters  upon  a  vast, 
dreary  and  unproductive  waste — fitly  called 
a  desert.  Still  its  rough  and  broken  ap- 
pearance, with  rocks,  hills,  and  mountains 
on  either  side,  affords  a  strange  and  pleasant 
relief  from  the  dull  monotony  of  the  eastern 
plains. 

Leaving  Laramie  City,  the  track  passes  close 
to  the  company's  rolling  mills.  We  soon  cross 
the  Laramie  River  on  a  wooden  truss  bridge, 
find  run  along  near  its  banks  to 

Ho  well, — which  is  a  side  track,  eight  miles 
from  Laramie,  and  580.8  miles  from  Omaha; 
elevation,  7,090  feet.  Passing  over  the  plains, 
walled  in  by  mountains  on  either  side,  we  reach 
the  next  station, 

Jfi/oiniuff, — over  fifteen  miles  from  Laramie, 
and  588.4  miles  from  Omaha;  elevation,  7,068 
feet.  Having  reached  the  highest  altitude  on 
the  line  of  the  road  between  the  two  oceans,  at 
Sherman,  you  see  we  are  now  going  down  hill 
a. little,  and  from  this  time  until  we  cross  the 
Sierras,  there  will  be  a  constant  succession  of 
"  ups  arid  downs  "  in  our  journey.  Wyoming  is 
on  the  Little  Laramie  River,  which  empties  into 
the  Laramie  River  near  the  station.  It  is  a  tele- 
graph station  with  a  few  houses  in  the  vicinity 
— in  the  midst  of  a  fine  grazing  country,  with 
sheep  and  cattle  ranches  in  sight.  Leaving 
Wyoming,  the  aspect  of  the  country  soon 
changes.  A  bluff  on  the  right  lies  near  the 
track,  the  country  becomes  more  undulating  as 
we  pass  on,  and  the  grass  seems  to  grow  thinner 
except  on  the  bottom  near  the  stream.  Sage 
brush  and  greasewood,  well  known  to  all  frontier 
men,  begin  to  appear.  We  have  seen  a  little  ot 
sage  brush  before  in  the  vicinity  of  Julesburg, 
and  Sidney,  and  now  strike  it  again. 


Cooper's  Lake, — 598.9  miles  from  Omaha, 
with  an  elevation  of  7,044  feet  It  is  a  telegraph 
station  with  the  usual  side  track  and  section- 
houses.  The  station  is  named  from  the  little 
lake  near  by,  which  can  best  be  seen  from  the 
cars  at  the  water  tank,  beyond  the  station.  It 
isn't  much  of  a  *ake,  nor  can  much  of  it  be  seen 
from  the  car  windows.  The  water  is  said  to 
look  very  green  in  the  summer,  and  to  differ  but 
little  in  appearance  from  the  green  grass  which 
surrounds  it.  The  lake  itself  is  about  half  a 
mile  wide,  and  a  mile  and  a  half  long,  and  about 
two  miles  from  the  track,  though  it  does  not 
seem  half  that  distance.  It  is  fed  by  Cooper  and 
Dutton  Creeks,  but  has  no  visible  outlet. 

Lookout, — 607.6  miles  from  Omaha,  and 
about  thirty-five  miies  Irom  Laramie ;  elevation, 
7,16y  feet.  The  road  left  what  may  be  called  the 
Laramie  bottom  at  the  last  station,  and  now 
winds  through  a  rolling  country,  which  soon  be- 
comes rough  and  broken,  with  the  sage  brush 
constantly  increasing.  Notice  the  changes  in 
the  elevation  as  you  pass  aloncr. 

Miser, — 615.9  miles  from  Omaha  ;  elevation, 
6,810  feet.  Near  here  coal  has  been  found. 
It  is  in  the  vicinity  of  Rock  Creek,  which  is 
said  to  be  the  eastern  rim  of  the  coal  fields 
discovered  on  this  elevated  plateau,  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  Continent.  From  the  last  station 
to  this,  and  beyond,  you  have  fine  and  con- 
stantly changing  views  from  the  moving  train, 
of  Laramie  Peak,  away  off  to  the  right,  and 
of  Elk  Mountain  to  the  left.  Sage  brush  is 
the  only  natural  production  of  the  soil  in  this 
region,  and  is  said  to  be  eaten  by  antelope  and 
elk  in  the  absence  of  grass  or  anything  better. 
It  is  also  said  that  sheep  will  feed  upon  it, 
and  that  wherever  antelope  live  and  flourish, 
sheep  will  do  likewise. 

Rock  Creek, — so  called  from  a  creek  of  the 
same  name,  which  the  road  here  crosses ;  624.6 
miles  from  Omaha;  elevation,  6.690  feet.  This 
is  a  regular  eating  station,  instead  of  Laramie. 
The  dining-room  is  beautifully  decorated  with 
flowers,  vines  and  horns  of  game,  a  pretty 
Bay  window  with  blooming  flowers  and  walls 
covered  with  vines,  and  the  display  of  hanging 
baskets. 

Rock  Creek  rises  in  the  northeastern  peaks 
of  the  Medicine  Bow  Range,  and  runs  in 
that  direction  to  this  station,  near  which 
it  turns  toward  the  west,  and  unites  with 
Medicine  Bow  River,  near  Medicine  Bow 
Station. 

Stages  depart  from  Rock  Creek  daily  for  Forts 
Fetterman,  McKinney,  Custer,  Keogh,  and  all 
points  in  the  Big  Horn  and  Yellowstone  regions. 

Wilcox. — A  side  track  for  the  passing  of 
trains,  632.3  miles  from  Omaha,  and  7,033  feet 
above  the  sea.  The  next  station  is 

Aurora. — This  station  was  formerly  named 
Como,  after  Lake  Como,  which  the  rail- 


90 


road  here  passes.  One  peculiarity  of  this  lake 
is  that  it  is  near  Rock  Creek — separated  from  it 
by  a  ridge  of  hills  estimated  at  200  feet  high, — 
with  no  visible  outlet.  The  station  is  640.2 
miles  from  Omaha,  and  6,680  feet  above  the 
sea.  The  lake  has  been  estimated  to  be  200 
feet  above  the  surface  of  Rock  Creek,  from 
which  it  is  separated  as  above  stated.  It  is 
fed  by  warm  springs,  which  also  supply  the 
water  tank  of  the  company  at  the  station.  In  a 
cold  day  the  steam  from  these  springs  can  be 
seen  at  some  distance.  It  is  also  a  great  resort 
for  ducks,  and  sportsmen  can  obtain  fine  shooting 
here  in  the  proper  season.  If  lizards  are  fish 
with  legs,  then  we  have  fish  with  legs  abounding 
in  this  lake  and  vicinity.  These  animals  are  from 
6  to  18  inches  in  length,  with  a  head  a  good  deal 
like  that  of  a  frog,  and  tufts  or  tassels  where  the 
gills  would  be  on  a  fish.  They  have  four  legs  and 
crawl  around  to  a  certain  extent  on  the  land. 
There  are  two  kinds  of  these  lizards,  one  differ- 
ing from  the  other  in  size  and  color  more  than 
in  shape,  and  either  kind  are  devoured  by  the 
ducks  when  they  can  be  caught.  The  lake  is 
about  one  mile  wide  in  the  widest  place,  and  two 
and  a  half  miles  long. 

VaUey  of  the  Chug  water.  —  The  Chug- 
water  Valley  is  about  100  miles  long.  It  has 
been  for  many  years  a  favorite  locality  for  winter- 
ing stock,  not  only  on  account  of  the  excellence  of 
the  grass  and  water,  but  also  from  the  fact  that 
the  climate  is  mild  throughout  the  winter.  Cat- 
tle and  horses  thrive  well  all  winter  without  hay 
or  shelter.  The  broad  valley  is  protected  from 
strong  cold  winds  by  high  walls  or  bluffs.  The 
soil  everywhere  is  fertile,  and  wherever  the  sur- 
face can  be  irrigated,  good  crops  of  all  kinds  of 
cereals  and  hardy  vegetables  can  be  raised  with- 
out difficulty. 

In  this  valley  and  near  the  source  of  the 
Chugwater,  are  thousands  of  tons  of  iron  ore, 
indicating  deposits  of  vast  extent  and  rich- 
ness, which  can  be  made  easily  accessible  when- 
ever desirable  to  construct  a  railroad  to  Mon- 
tana. 

Medicine  Bow — is  647.3  miles  from  Omaha ; 
elevation,  6,550  feet.  The  river,  from  which  the 
station  is  named,  was  crossed  a  short  distance 
before  we  reached  the  station.  It  rises  directly 
south,  in  the  Medichie  Bow  Mountains,  and  runs 
nearly  north  to  the  place  where  it  is  crossed  by 
the  railroad,  after  which  it  turns  toward  the 
west  and  unites  with  the  North  Platte,  below 
Fort  Steele. 

There  is  a  roundhouse  of  five  stalls,  in  which 
engines  are  kept  to  assist  trains  up  and  down 
the  steep  grades  between  here  and  Carbon.  It 
was,  until  recently,  the  point  from  which  a  large 
quantity  of  military  supplies  for  Fort  Fetter- 
man  and  other  posts  was  distribxited,  but  the 
transfer  now  takes  place  mainly  at  Rock  Creek. 
There  are  one  or  two  stores,  with  the  inevitable 


saloon  and  several  dwellings,  in  the  vicinity. 
There  is  a  good  wagon  road  from  this  place  to 
Fort  Fetterman,  distance  ninety  miles,  and  it  is 
by  far  the  nearest  route  to  the  gold  fields  in  the 
Black  Hills  of  Dakota,  for  passengers  and  miners 
from  the  West.  The  Indians  were  disinclined  to 
leave  this  region  and  even  now  hardly  know  how 
to  give  it  up.  In  the  summer  of  1875,  they  came 
here  and  stole  a  herd  of  between  three  and  four 
hundred  horses  that  were  grazing  on  Rock  Creek, 
it.  Don't  they  kill  and  scalp  a  white  man, 
when'ar  they  get  the  better  on  him  ?  The  mean 
varmints,  they'll  never  behave  themselves  until 
you  give  'um  a  clean  out  and  out  licking.  They 
can't  onderstand  white  folks'  ways,  and  they 
won't  learn  'um,  and  ef  you  treat  'um  decently^ 
they  think  you're  afeard.  You  may  depend  on't, 
Cap.,  the  only  way  to  treat  Indians,  is  to  thrash 
them  well  at  first. 

Medicine  Bow  is  in  the  midst  of  a  rough, 
broken  country,  over  v;hich  millions  of  antelope 
and  jack  rabbits  roam  at  pleasure.  When  the 
road  was  built  here  immense  quantities  of  ties 
and  wood  were  cut  in  the  mountains  south,  and 
delivered  at  this  place. 

Curiosities  of  Indian  Life  and  Char- 
acter.— The  entire  country,  from  North  Platte 
over  as  far  as  the  western  border  of  Laramie 
Plains,  has  been  for  years  the  roving  ground  of 
the  Indians,  of  whom  we  could  tell  many  inter- 
esting facts  respecting  their  life  and  the  curious 
interviews  the  overland  scouts,  trappers,  etc., 
have  had  with  them.  To  a  man,  every  scout  will 
unite  in  denunciation  of  their  treachery.  Jim 
Baker, — an  old  Rocky  Mountain  trapper,— once 
told,  in  his  characteristic  manner  the  following, 
to  General  Marcy : 

"  They  are  the  most  onsartainest  varmints  in 
all  creation,  and  I  reckon  thar  not  mor'n  half 
human ;  for  you  never  seed  a  human,  arter  you'd 
fed  and  treated  him  to  the  best  fixins  in  your 
lodge,  just  turn  round  and  steal  all  your  horses, 
or  anything  he  could  lay  his  hand  on. 

"  No,  not  adzackly !  he  would  feel  kinder  grate- 
ful, and  ask  you  to  spread  a  blanket  in  his  lodge 
if  ever  you  passed  that  way.  But  the  Indian, 
he  don't  care  shucks  for  you,  and  is  ready  to  do 
you  a  heap  of  mischief  as  soon  as  he  quits  your 
feed.  No,  Cap',"  he  continued,  "it's  not  the 
right  way  to  give  'um  presents  to  buy  peace ;  but 
ef  I  was  governor  of  these  yeer  United  States, 
I'll  tell  you  what  I'd  do.  I'd  invite  'um  all  to  a 
big  feast,  and  make  believe  I  wanted  to  have  a 
big  talk,  and  as  soon  as  I  got  'um  all  together,  I'd 
pitch  in  and  scalp  half  of  'um,  and  then  t'other 
half  would  be  mighty  glad  to  make  a  peace  that 
would  stick.  That's  the  way  I'd  make  a  treaty 
with  the  dog-ond,  red-bellied  varmints ;  and,  as 
sure  as  you're  born,  Cap.,  that's  the  only  way. 

"  It  ain'  no  use  to  talk  about  honor  with  them, 
Cap. ;  they  hain't  got  no  such  thing  in  'um  ;  and 
they  won't  show  fair  fight,  any  way  you  can  fix 


91 


Indian  observations  on  the  character  of  the 
American  and  English  people,  are  often  pretty 
good.  An  Indian  once  describing  to  an  English- 
man the  characteristics  of  the  different  people 
he  knew,  said  as  follows,  most  naively : 

"  King  George  man,  (  English  )  very  good  ; 
Boston  man,  (American)  good ;  John  Chinaman, 
not  good ;  but  the  black  man,  he  no  better  than  a 
dog." 

They  are  particularly  curious  about  negroes, 
as  they  do  not  feel  certain  whether  the  black 
goes  all  through.  Some  years  ago,  a  party  of 
negroes  escaping  from  Texas,  were  captured  by 
some  of  the  Comanches,  who  scraped  their  skin  to 
settle  this  question. 

Carbon, — 656.5  miles  from  Omaha,  with  an 
elevation  of  6,750  feet.  A  station  of  great 
prominence  for  coal  mining.  Population  700. 
This  is  the  first  station  on  the  line  of  the 
road,  where  the  company  obtains  a  supply 
of  coal.  A  shaft  about  120  feet  deep  has 
been  sunk,  and  veins  of  coal  opened  about 
six  feet  thick.  The  coal  is  hoisted  to  the 
surface  by  means  of  a  stationary  engine,  and 
dumped  into  cars  by  means  of  chutes,  or  into 
large  bins  from  which  it  is  taken  to  supply 
passing  engines.  From  50  to  150  men  are 
employed  in  these  mines,  and  a  good  many 
of  them  live  in  board  shanties,  adobe  houses,  and 
dug-outs  along  the  side  of  the  track.  The  coal 
is  mostly  used  by  the  company — but  little  being 
sold  as  it  is  not  as  good  for  domestic  purposes  as 
the  coal  found  at  Rock  Springs.  Leaving  Car- 
bon we  pass  through  a  rugged  country,  with 
scenery  sufficiently  atti*active  to  keep  the  traveler 
on  the  constant  lookout,  to 

Simpson, — a  side  track,  with  section-house, 
663.5  miles  from  Omaha,  and  an  elevation  of  6,898 
feet.  Passenger  trains  do  not  stop  and  on  we 
go  to 

Percy, — 668.1  miles  from  Omaha,  and  6,950 
feet  above  the  sea.  From  Simpson  to  this  sta- 
tion, you  can  obtain  the  finest  view  of  Elk 
Mountain  on  the  left.  We  have  not  been  able 
to  ascertain  its  elevation,  but  its  comparative 
short  distance  from  the  road  causes  it  to  look 
high  and  grand.  It  can  be  seen  from  a  long  dis- 
tance, either  east  or  west,  and  is  the  noted  peak 
of  the  Medicine  Bow  Range.  It  seems  to 
jut  out  from  the  main  ridge,  and  looking 
from  the  west,  stands  in  bold  relief  against 
the  sky.  The  station  is  named  in  honor 
of  Colonel  Percy,  who  was  killed  here  by  the 
Sioux  Indians,  when  the  road  was  being  sur- 
veyed. At  this  station  passengers  who  desire 
to  visit  Elk  Mountain,  and  the  region  in  its  im- 
mediate vicinity  will  leave  the  cars.  During 
the  construction  of  the  road  large  quantities  of 
wood  and  ties  with  timber  for  bridges,  were  cut 
in  the  mountains  and  foot  hills,  and  hauled  to 
this  station.  At  the  foot  of  Elk  Mountain  stood 


Fort  Halleck  now  abandoned,  and  a  station  of 
the  Overland  Stage  Company.  There  were  many 
skirmishes  with  the  Indians  in  this  vicinity  in 
those  days,  and  now  and  then  you  will  be  able  to 
find  an  old  settler  who  will  entertain  you  for 
hours,  in  the  recital  of  wild  adventures  and  hair- 
breadth escapes.  A  visit  to  the  site  of  the  old 
fort  and  the  region  of  country  around,  together 
with  a  close  view  of  the  grand  scenery  of  the 
mountains,  will  amply  repay  the  traveler  for  his 
time  and  money.  About  four  miles  south  of 
Percy,  fine  veins  of  coal  were  discovered  in  1875, 
but  they  have  not  been  opened  or  tested.  One 
is  nine  and  the  other  over  twenty  feet  in  thick- 
ness. Notice  a  suggestive  sign  as  you  pass  the 
station.  It  is  "  Bowles's  Hotel,"  and  of  course, 
indicates  that  everything  is  perfectly  "  straight " 
within. 

South  of  this  station  there  is  some  very  fine 
grazing  land,  mostly  in  the  valleys  of  the  little 
streams  that  head  in  the  Medicine  Bow  Range, 
and  flow  westward  into  the  North  Platte  River, 
and  a  considerable  quantity  of  hay  is  cut  during^ 
favorable  seasons. 

A  Curious  and  Exciting  Knee. — En- 
gineers have  told  of  a  curious  scene  on  the  Pacific 
Railroad  not  far  from  the  Laramie  Plains,  of  a 
race  between  the  locomotive  and  a  herd  of  deer. 
At  daybreak,  the  locomotive,  with  its  long  train 
of  carriages  and  freight  cars,  entered  a  narrow 
valley  or  gorge,  where  runs  quite  a  rivulet  of 
clear  and  cold  mountain  water.  On  the  banks 
of  this  stream  a  large  herd  of  red  deer  were 
standing,  occasionally  lapping  the  refresh- 
ing element.  The  timid  creatures,  startled  by 
the  presence  in  their  midst  of  the  "  iron  horse," 
knew  not  what  course  to  pursue  in  order  to  get 
away  from  it.  The  engineer,  to  add  to  their 
evident  perplexity,  caused  the  whistle  to  send 
forth  its  loudest  and  most  discordant  shriek. 
This  was  enough  for  the  deer.  To  get  beyond 
reach  of  this  new  enemy,  they  started  up  the 
'road,  taking  the  course  the  locomotive  was 
pursuing.  The  race  became  exciting.  It  was  a 
superb  trial  of  steam  and  iron  against  muscle 
and  lung.  The  engineer  "  put  on  steam,"  and 
sent  his  locomotive  with  its  burdensome  train, 
whirling  along  the  track  ;  but  for  many  miles — 
six  or  seven  it  was  estimated — the  frightened 
animals  kept  ahead,  fairly  beating  their  antago- 
nist. At  last  the  pursued  and  pursuer  got  into  a 
more  open  country.  This  the  deer  perceiving, 
they  sprang  on  one  side,  and,  with  unabated 
speed,  ran  to  a  safe  distance,  where  beyond  reach 
of  locomotive  or  rifle,  they  stood  and  gazed  with 
dilated  eyes — their  limbs  trembling  from  un- 
usual exertion,  and  gasping  for  breath — at  their 
fast  receding  enemy. 

Dana — is  the  next  station-;— simply  a  side 
track.  It  is  674.2  miles  from  Omaha ;  elevation, 
6,875  feet.  The  rugged,  broken  character  of  the 
country  with  cuts  for  the  track,  and  fills  in  the 


DEER  KACE  WITH  TRAIN  OX  THE  U.  P.  K.  K. 


valleys,  will  interest  the  observing  tourist  if  he 
passes  by  in  daylight. 

Edson — 680  miles  from  Omaha,  with  an 
elevation  of  6, 751  feet.  It  is  a  telegraph  sta- 
tion with  accompanying  side  tack,  section-house, 
etc.  From  this  station  to  the  next,  the  bluffs 
are  rugged  and  wild,  the  road  passing  through  a 
short  tunnel  and  several  deep  cuts.  There  is 
nothing  but  the  changing  scenery  as  you  move 
along  with  the  train,  to  relieve  this  country  from 
its  desolate  appearance.  Sage  brush  and  grease- 
wood  continue  to  be  the  only  products  of  the  soil. 

Walcott, — a  side  track  689.5  miles  from  the 
Missouri  River,' and  6,800  feet  above  the  sea. 
After  leaving  this  station,  the  road  winds  aimind 
the  bluffs,  passing  through  some  very  deep  cuts, 
near  one  of  which  there  is  a  stone  quarry  from 
which  stone  is  taken  by  the  company  for  road 
purposes  at  Green  River.  A  side  track  to  the 
quarry  has  been  laid  and  stone  easily  loaded  on 
the  flat  cars  used  for  their  transportation.  Sud- 
denly bursting  through  one  of  these  cuts  we 
enter  the  valley  of  the  Platte,  through  what  is 
called  Rattle  Snake  Pass,  by  the  railroad  men, 
and  arrive  at 

Fort  Steele, —  which  is  695.3  miles  from 
Omaha,  122.5  miles  from  Laramie,  and  has  an 
elevation  of  6,810  feet.  It  is  a  telegraph  station, 
and  the  site  of  the  government  post  of  the  same 
name.  We  cross  North  Platte  River  just  before 
arriving  at  the  station,  and  are  4,051  feet  higher 
than  when  we  crossed  the  same  stream  at  North 
Platte  City,  near  the  junction  of  the  two  PJattes 
in  the  State  of  Nebraska.  Fort  Steele  was 
established  on  the  last  day  of  June,  1868,  by 


Col.  R.  I.  Dodge,  then  of  the  Thirtieth  United 
States  Infantry.  It  is  considered  a  good  strate- 
gic point,  as  well  as  a  convenient  base  of  supplies, 
in  case  of  a  campaign  against  the  Indians.  The 
buildings  are  mostly  of  logs,  and  none  of  them 
very  comfortable.  In  1875,  the  government  fin- 
ished a  fine  stone  hospital  building  here.  The 
station  also  does  considerable  government  busi- 
ness, and  there  is  a  government  depot  for  receiv- 
ing and  storing  supplies  near  the  track.  The 
valley  of  the  North  Platte  at  this  upper  cross- 
ing is  quite  narrow,  without  the  broad  and 
fertile  bottom-lands  we  were  accustomed  to  see 
below  as  we  whirled  along  its  banks.  From  the 
head  of  this  river  in  the  North  Park  of  Colorado, 
to  a  point  as  far  down  as  Fort  Laramie,  its  route 
describes  the  form  of  a  horseshoe.  Its  tributa- 
ries from  the  east  mostly  rise  in  the  Medicine 
Bow  Range,  and  flow  westward.  They  are 
principally  Douglas  Creek,  Fresh  Creek,  Brush 
Creek,  Cedar  Creek,  Spring  Creek,  and  Pass 
Creek.  They  are  beautiful  streams  with  fine 
grass  valleys  and  partially  wooded  banks.  Its 
tributaries  from  the  west  are  Beaver  Creek, 
Grand  Encampment  Creek,  Cow  Creek,  Hot 
Spring  Creek,  Jack  Creek,  and  Sage  Creek. 
Hot  Spring  Creek  is  so  named  from  the  hot  sul- 
phur springs  which  are  found  near  its  mouth. 
All  the  streams  which  rise  in  the  Medicine  Bow 
Range,  and  flow  into  the  North  Platte,  show  the 
"  color  '*  of  gold  where  they  have  been  prospected, 
and  some  rich  diggings  are  said  to  have  been 
discovered  at  the  head  of  Douglas  Creek.  We 
believe  it  will  not  be  long  before  the  Medicine 
Bow  Mountains  will  develop  into  a  rich  mining 


country.  The  waters  of  the  Hot  Springs  re- 
ferred to  are  claimed  to  possess  remarkable  me- 
dicinal virtues,  and  are  from  40  to  45  miles  from 
Fort  Steele,  up  the  right  bank  of  the  river. 
The  wondeis  of  even  these  desolate  plains  do 
not  begin  to  be  known,  and  when  they  are  fully 
realized,  the  world  will  be  astonished  at  the 
results.  About  three  miles  west  of  Fort  Steele 
is  the  site  of  Benton — the  town  that  was — now 
wholly  abandoned.  For  a  short  time  it  was  the 
business  terminus  of  the  road,  while  its  construc- 
tion was  going  on,  and  possessed  all  the  charac- 
teristics of  the  railroad  towns  in  those  days.  At 
one  time  it  had  a  population  estimated  as  high 
as  five  thousand  souls.  Old  iron  barrel  hoops, 
rusty  tin  cans,  a  few  holes  in  the  ground,  a  few 
posts  and  stumps,  and  nearly  or  quite  a  hundred 
nameless  graves  in  close  proximity,  are  all  that 


perior  satisfaction  it  would  give.  The  railroad 
reached  and  passed  Benton  in  July,  1868.  The 
valley  of  the  N.  Platte  River  begins  to  be  occu- 
pied by  cattle  men,  as  stock  can  be  carried 
through  the  severest  winters,  thus  far  experienced, 
without  hay.  It  has  superior  advantages,  not 
only  for  grazing,  but  its  numerous  "draws" 
or  ravines  afford  friendly  shelter  in  case  of  storms. 

View  on  the  North  Platte,  near  Fort 
Fred  Steele. — The  Platte  River  here  is  over 
700  miles  from  its  mouth  near  Omaha,  and  has  an 
elevation  of  6,845  feet.  Upon  the  plains  it  was 
a  wide,  shallow  stream,  with  sand-bars  and  shift- 
ing currents.  Here  it  is  a  deep,  clear,  cold  stream, 
and  but  little  distant  from  its  source  among  the 
perpetual  snow  banks  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

Grennville — is  the  next  station,  703.7  miles 
from  Omaha  with  an  elevation  of  6,560  feet 


VIEW  ON  THE  PLATTE, 

now  remain  to  mark  the  place  where  Benton 
was.  It  grew  in  a  day,  and  faded  out  of  sight  as 
quickly.  But  it  was  a  red-hot  town  while  it 
lasted.  A  death,  sometimes  two  or  three  of 
them,  with  corresponding  burials,  was  the  morn- 
ing custom.  Whisky  was  preferred  to  water  be- 
cause it  was  much  easier  to  obtain,  and  unre- 
strained by  civilized  society  or  wholesome  laws, 
the  devil  in  men  and  women  had  full  sway,  and 
made  free  exhibitions  of  his  nature.  The  town 
was  three  miles  from  the  North  Platte  River, 
where  all  the  water  was  obtained  and  hauled 
in,  price  ten  cents  per  bucket,  or  one  dollar 
per  barrel.  In  that  town,  a  drink  of  regular  old 
"  tangle-foot "  whisky,  at  "  two  bits  "  ( twenty- 
five  cents)  would  last  a  good  deal  longer  than 
a  bucket  of  water,  to  say  nothing  of  the  su- 


NEAR  FORT   FRED   STEELE. 


above  the  sea.  It  is  simply  a  side  track  for  the 
meeting  and  passing  of  trains.  Passenger  trains 
seldom  stop.  The  next  station  and  the  end  of 
a  subdivision  of  the  road  is 

Rmvlins, — named  in  honor  of  Gen.  John  A. 
Rawlins,  General  Grant's  chief  of  staff  and  hi* 
first  secretary  of  war.  The  springs  near  here 
bear  the  same  name,  but  it  has  been  incoi'rectly 
spelled,  heretofore.  This  station  is  137.9  miles 
from  Laramie,  and  710.7  miles  from  Omaha.  It 
has  an  elevation  of  6,732  feet.  We  are  going  up 
hill  again.  The  town  has  a  population  of  over 
1,500  souls,  a  large  number  of  whom  are  railroad 
employes.  The  company"  has  erected  a  hotel  for 
the  use  of  its  employes  and  the  traveling  public, 
and  has  a  roundhouse  and  machine-shops  which 
are  kept  pretty  busy  in  the  repair  of  engines. 


94 


The  water  used  by  engines  on  this  division  is 
strongly  impregnated  with  alkali  and  other  sub* 
stances,  which  form  scales  on  the  inside  of  the 
boiler  and  adhere  to  the  flues.  The  engines  are, 
therefore,  carefully  watched,  and  every  pre^ 
caution  taken  to  guard  against  accidents. 
North  of  the  town  is  what  might  be  called,  in 
some  countries,  a  mountain.  Near  the  east 
end  of  this  mountain  valuable  beds  of  red 
hematite — iron  ore — have  been  found.  This 
ore  is  very  pure,  and,  when  ground,  makes  a 
very  hard  and  durable  paint.  It  is  said  to  be 
water  and  fire-proof  when  used  in  sufficient' 
quantities.  The  dark  red  freight  and  flat  cars 
which  you  see  on  the  line  of  the  road  belong, 
ing  to  the  company,  have  been  painted  with 
this  material.  There  are  two  mills  here  for 
the  manufacture  of  this  paint.  Forty  miles 
due  north  from  Rawlins  are  the  Ferris  and 
Seminole  mining  districts.  South  of  Rawlins, 
about  sixty  miles,  in  the  Snake  River  Region, 
are  fine  grazing  fields,  already  occupied,  to  a 
certain  extent,  by  cattle  men.  A  colony  of 
farmers  and  miners  from  "the  vicinity  of  Den- 
ver, Col.,  have  settled  in  that  region,  and  more 
are  constantly  going  in.  About  a  mile  and  a 
half  from  Rawlins,  east,  is  a  large  sulphur 
spring.  This  spring  is  almost  unnoticed,  be- 
'Cause  unknown.  The  springs,  frequently  al- 
luded to  as  Rawlins  Springs,  are  on  the  left  of 
the  track,  and  a  little  west  of  the  town.  Iron, 
sulphur  and  magnesia  predominate  in  these 
waters,  the  latter  reaching  the  high  tempera- 
ture of  130  degrees.  A  few  buildings  of  rather 
inferior  quality  have  been  erected  for  the 
accommodation  of  visitors.  Good  fishing  and 
hunting  are  side  attractions  here.  The  small 
creek  which  passes  through  the  place  is  known 
as  Separation  Creek,  and  empties  into  the 
North  Platte  River  north  of  Fort  Steele. 
There  are  also  immense  beds  or  lakes  of  soda, 
tributary  to  this  station,  some  of  which  is 
nearly  pure.  Rawlins  is  in  the  midst  of  a 
broken,  desolate  country,  and  depends  upon 
railroad  importations  for  nearly  everything 
upon  which  its  people  live,  though  there  is  a 
fine  country  reported  both  north  and  south. 
In  addition  to  the  other  buildings  named,  it 
has  the  usual  quantity  of  saloons,  together 
with  several  stores,  at  which  a  thriving  trade 
is  done. 

To  the  Hig  Horn. — At  Rawlins  you  can 
ordinarily  meet  several  old  trappers  or  scouts 
who  have  been  in  the  Big  Horn  region,  and 
who  declare  the  route  from  here  to  be  superior 
to  any  other.  These  men  have  led  European 
hunting  parties  in  that  direction,  and  the 
English  nobility,  especially,  always  come  back 
wildly  enthusiastic  and  glutted  with  glories  of 
the  chase.  Aside  from  the  reputation  of  the 
Big  Horn  region  as  a  golden  mecca  for  the 
miner,  we  can  again  say  from  personal  knowl- 


edge,  that  the  country  is  prolific  in  beautiful 
and  fertile  valleys,  in  vast  and  unexcelled  stock 
ranges,  in  magnificent  scenery,  and  is  alive 
with  large  and  small  game.  Following  are 
distances  and  camping  places  on  one  of  the 
Rawlins  routes.  The  last  125  miles  is  lined 
with  good  camp  grounds.  MILES. 

From  Kawlins  to  Brown's  Canon 12 

Brown's  Canon  to  Seminole 23 

Seminole  to  Sand  Creek 10 

Sand  Creek  to  Sweetwater  River 15 

Sweetwater  River  (bridged,  to  Rattlesnake  Range.    16 

Across  Range  to  Poison  Springs  Creek . .       8 

Poison  Springs  Creek  to  Cloud  Peak 125 

Total 209 

Ponies  and  outfitting  goods  of  all  descrip- 
tions can  be  purchased  at  Rawlins,  and  parties  in 
need  of  a  good  guide  should  always  look  up  Tom 
Sun  an  old  hunter  and  government  scout,  who 
knows  the  country  thoroughly,  and  is  just  the 
man  to  chaperon  a  hunting  or  exploring  party. 
His  address  is  Rawlins. 

Solon. — A  side  track  nearly  seven  miles  from 
Rawlins,  and  716  miles  from  Omaha;  eleva- 
tion, 6,821  feet.  Heavy  grades  now  for  quite  a 
distance. 

Separation. — One  would  naturally  suppose 
from  the  name,  that  the  waters  flowing  east  and 
west,  divided  or  separated  here,  but  such  is  not 
the  fact.  It  is  reported  that  a  party  of  engineers 
who  were  surveying  and  locating  the  road, 
separated  here  to  run  different  lines— hence  the 
name.  It  is  a  telegraph  station,  724.1  miles  from 
Omaha,  and  6,900  feet  above  the  level  of 'the 
sea.  The  artesian  wel]  at  this  station,  which 
supplies  the  water  tank  is  860  feet  deep.  The 
water  from  these  wells  is  not  always  pure — fre» 
quently  having  a  brackish  or  alkali  taste. 

Fittmore, — named  in  honor  of  a  former  di- 
vision  superintendent  of  the  road,  now  in  the 
stock  business,  with  ranche  at  Wyoming.  It  is 
731.6  miles  from  Omaha;  elevation,  6,885  feet. 
Simply  a  side  track  in  the  midst  of  a  barren, 
broken  country. 

Cresfon, — 738.6  miles  from  the  eastern  ter* 
minus  of  the  road,  and  7,030  feet  above  the  sea. 
It  is  a  telegraph  station,  with  the  usual  side 
tracks  and  section-house.  Three  miles  farther 
west,  and  we  reach  the  summit  of  the  divide 
which  separates  the  waters  of  the  two  oceans. 
This  is  the  crowning  ridge  in  the  backbone  of  the 
Continent,  and  a  desolate  place  it  is.  It  is  the 
summit  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  "  What  was 
this  country  made  for?" — We  asked  a  fellow- 
traveler.  "To  hold  the  rest  of  it  together" — 
was  the  ready  reply.  That  is  good ;  the  best 
reason  for  its  existence  we've  had.  It  is  of  some 
use  after  all.  Allowing  80  feet  grade  for  the 
three  miles  west  of  Creston,  to  the  actual  summit 
of  the  divide,  and  we  are  then  1,122  feet  lower 
than  at  Sherman.  It  is  true  there  are  no  lofto 
peaks  here,  with  snowy  crests  the  year  round, 
but  an  immense  roll,  over  which  we  glide  and 


never  think  that  we  are  crossing  the  summit  of 
the  rock-ribbed  Rockies.  At  this  divide  a  short 
distance  north  of  the  track,  a  pole  was  once 
erected  with  a  flag  to  mark  the  spot,  but  it  has 
fallen  before  the  fierce  gales  which  sweep  over 
this  elevated  ridge,  and  which  seem  to  have  with- 
ered everything  they  touched.  Standing  on  the 
rear  platform  of  the  train,  looking  east  you  notice 
the  undulations  of  the  road  as  it  passes  beneath 
you  ;  Elk  Mountain  of  the  Medicine  Bow  Range, 
and  the  far  distant  Black  Hills  rise  grandly  in 
view  as  you  approach  the  crest,  but  suddenly  you 
have  passed  to  the  other  side,  and  a  stretch  of 
country  two  hundred  miles  long  drops  from  your 
view  in  an  instant.  On  this  part  of  the  road  the 
most  difficulty  with  snow  is  usually  experienced 
in  the  winter.  There  is  a  constant  breeze  here, 
and  frequent  storms,  though  a  few  miles  farther 
it  may  be  clear  and  pleasant.  In  the  great  snow 
blockade  of  the  winter  of  1871-2,  the  telegraph 
poles  were  frequently  buried  in  the  drifts.  The 
Western  Union  Company  had  their  wires  ele- 
vated on  poles  planted  in  the  snow  in  several 
places,  to  keep  them  above  the  drifts.  In  that 
blockade,  the  worst  ever  known  since  the  road 
was  built,  there  were  seventeen  days  without 
trains.  Since  then  the  track  has  been  raised, 
snow  fences  planted,  sheds  erected  and  every  pos- 
sible appliance  used  to  insure  the  safe  and 
speedy  passage  of  trains.  Looking  again  to  the 
north  you  can  see  the  snowy  heads  of  the  Wind 
River  Mountains,  with  the  peak  named  after 
Fremont,  the  gallant  Path-finder  of  the  West, 
towering  against  the  sky.  Notice  the  dark 
shades  of  the  timber  lines  as  they  press  against 
the  eternal  snows  with  which  they  are  covered. 
Looking  forward  to  the  west,  if  you  have  a 
chance,  Pilot  Butte,  north  of  Rock  Springs,  one 
of  the  great  landmarks  of  the  plains,  is  clearly 
visible.  To  the  south  you  behold  the  mountains 
where  the  tributaries  of  the  Snake  River  rise, 
and  whence  they  flow  into  the  Pacific  Ocean.  No- 
tice on  north  sign-board,  "CONTINENTAL  DIVIDE." 

Latham,  —  746.1  miles  from  Omaha,  and 
6,900  feet  above  the  sea.  Passenger  trains  do 
not  stop  as  it  is  only  a  side  track.  On  we  go  to 

Washafcie, — so  called  after  a  Shoshone  chief, 
reputed  to  be  friendly  to  the  whites,  whose  tribe 
fights  the  Sioux  when  there  is  opportunity. 
Here  is  an  artesian  well,  638  feet  deep,  flowing 
800  gallons  per  hour. 

Red  Desert. — The  country  near  is  reddish 
in  appearance,  but  the  place  is  named  after  the 
Red  Desert,  near  which  is  an  immense  basin  of 
its  own,  similar  to  the  Salt  Lake  basin.  It  lies 
500  feet  below  the  level  of  the  country,  has  no 
outlet,  and  extends  from  the  South  Pass  on  the 
north,  to  Bridger's  Pass  on  the  south,  and  east 
from  summit  of  the  divide  to  Tipton  on  the  west, 
a  very  singular  depression  right  on  the  divide  of 
the  Continent.  The  little  stream  just  seen  before 
reaching  this  place,  flows  south  and  is  lost  in  this 


basin.  The  country  near  is  alkali,  and  subject 
to  high  water  and  heavy  rains,  giving  great  diffi- 
culty to  preserve  the  security  of  road-bed  and 
track.  Station  is  763  miles  from  Omaha;  ele- 
vation 6,710  feet. 

Tipton, — a  side  track  for  meeting  and  pass- 
ing trains.  It  is  769.6  miles  from  the  "  Big 
Muddy,"  with  an  elevation  of  6,800  feet.  We 
have  been  going  up  hill  again — leaving  the  val- 
ley of  the  Snake  River.  The  snows  of  winter 
leave  heavy  drifts  along  here,  but  the  railroad 
men  have  learned  by  experience  how  to  manage 
them  quite  successfully.  When  the  drifts  have 
reached  the  top  of  the  fences  in  height,  they  go 
along  and  raise  the  fences  to  the  top  of  the  drifts, 
fastening  them  as  best  they  can  in  the  snow. 
This  they  repeat  as  often  as  necessary,  and  thus, 
the  snow,  in  many  instances,  is  kept  away  from 
the  track,  but  the  drifts  become  pretty  high. 

Table  Mock, — named  from  a  rock  resembling 
a  table  south  of,  and  about  six  miles  from  the 
station.  It  is  776.3  miles  from  Omaha,  and 
6,890  feet  above  the  sea — is  a  telegraph  station. 
There  is  a  \>ng,  evenly  cut  bluff  south  of  the 
track,  estimated  to  be  600  feet  in  height.  On 
what  appears  to  be  the  north-west  corner  of  this 
bluff  a  square,  table-like,  projection  rises — the 
table — and  presents  a  very  odd  appearance.  It 
can  be  seen  for  quite  a  distance,  as  you  look  to 
the  left  from  the  cars.  The  table  projects  about 
60  feet  above  the  bluffs  adjoining,  though  it  does 
not  seem  half  that  distance.  Next  we  come  to 

Monell — 781.3  miles  from  Omaha,  and  6,785 
feet  above  the  sea.  South  of  this  station,  and 
to  a  certain  extent,  in  its  immediate  vicinity, 
moss  agates  are  found.  The  stones,  however, 
are  not  clear  and  well-defined.  They  are  smoky 
and  dark,  rendering  them  nearly  valueless. 
Monell  is  only  a  side  track  where  trains  seldom 
stop.  Down  the  grade  we  pass  to 

Hitter  Creek, — a  telegraph  station,  786.3 
miles  from  Omaha,  with  an  elevation  of  6,685 
feet.  At  this  station,  we  first  strike  the  well- 
known  Bitter  Creek  Valley,  through  which  we 
shall  pass  to  Green  River.  About  four  miles 
below  this  station,  on  the  south  side  of  the  track, 
the  old  overland  stage  and  emigrant  road  struck 
the  valley,  as  it  came  in  from  Bridger's  Pass,  and 
across  the  Snake  River  Valley.  The  railroad 
reaches  Bitter  Creek  through  a  "  draw  "  or  dry 
ravine  which  unites  with  the  valley  proper,  at  the 
station.  The  old  stage-road  struck  the  creek 
farther  south,  and  before  it  reaches  the  railroad. 
This  was  formerly  quite  a  station,  and  the  end 
of  a  passenger  division.  It  has  a  small  round- 
house, with  ten  stalls  and  turn-table,  upon  which 
the  engines  and  snow-plows  are  turned.  Between 
this  station  and  Rawlins,  as  has  been  observed, 
are  very  heavy  grades,  requiring  two  engines  to 
pull  a  train.  These  extra  engines  come  with 
trains  as  far  as  this  station,  and  then  assist  east- 
ward bound  trains  back  again.  A  large  quan- 


SCENES  ON  GREEN  RIVER. 
I — Flaming  Gorge.    2.— Brown'?  Hole.    3.— Looking  up  tlie  Valley  of  G™0"  Kiver. 


97 


tity  of  bridge  timber  is  also  kept  here,  ready 
for  any  emergency.  In  the  great  washout  at 
the  foot  of  this  valley,  in  the  spring  of  1875, 
large  quantities  were  used.  Bitter  Creek  is 
rightly  named.  Its  waters  are  so  strongly 
impregnated  with  alkali  that  they  are  almost 
useless.  Nevertheless,  at  the  head  of  this 
creek,  where  it  is  fed  by  cold,  clear  springs, 
for  more  than  ten  miles  from  the  station, 
trout  have  been  caught,  though  they  are 
small.  The  rugged  scenery  along  this  valley 
will  interest  the  traveler,  as  the  views  are 
constantly  changing.  There  are  no  machine- 
shops  for  repairs  here,  only  the  five-stall 
roundhouse.  The  creek  has  been  dammed 
for  the  purpose  of  supplying  the  water  tank, 
though  the  water  is  not  the  best  for  boil- 
ers. The  whole  region  of  country,  from  a 
point  east,  as  far  as  Rock  Creek  to  Green 
River,  is  underlaid  with  coal.  It  frequently 
crops  out  in  this  valley.  The  coal  is  lignite 
and  will  not  "  coke "  like  the  bituminous 
coal.  There  are  also  indications  of  iron 
and  other  minerals,  in  the  immediate  vicin- 
ity of  the  valley.  Occasionally,  you  will 
see  little  shrub  pines  on  the  bluffs — but  no 
timber.  These  pines  have  tried  to  grow, 
but  the  sterility  of  the  soil  is  against  them. 
They  find  it  almost  impossible  to  "  take 
root."  Sometimes  it  seems,  as  you  pass 
down  the  valley  and  look  ahead,  as  though 
the  train  jvas  going  square  against  the 
rocks,  arid  would  be  dashed  in  pieces ;  but 
a  sudden  curve,  and  you  have  rounded  the 
projecting  bluffs,  and  are  safely  pursuing 
your  journey.  Again,  it  seems  as  though 
the  bluffs  were  trying  to  shake  hands  across 
the  chasm,  or  making  an  effort  to  become 
dovetailed  together.  They  assume  all  sorts 
of  shapes,  washed  out  in  places  by  the 
storms  of  ages — smoothly  carved  as  if  by 
the  hand  of  the  sculptor — and  again,  ragged 
and  grotesque.  The  geology  of  the  Bitter 
Creek  and  Green  River  Valleys,  will  afford 
a  chapter  of  curious  interest,  and  will  amply 
reward  him  who  searches  thoroughly  after 
the  knowledge.  Professor  Hayden  and  Major 
Powell  have  the  best  reports  on  the  forma- 
tion and  geology  of  this  region. 

Black  Btiftes  —  is  the  next  station,  795.4 
miles  from  Omaha,  and  6,600  feet  above 
ihe  sea.  It  is  a  telegraph  station  with 
accompanying  side  tracks.  Fonnerly  there 
was  a  coal  mine  worked  here,  said  to  be- 
long to  Jack  Morrow,  now  of  Omaha,  and 
quite  a  noted  frontier  character  in  his 
day.  It  furnishes  excellent  coal,  easily  ac- 
cessible, the  vein  being  from  six  to  eight 
feet  thick.  As  you  approach  the  station, 
notice  the  balanced  rock  north  of  the 
road  and  within  50  feet  of  the  .  side 
track.  The  buttes  from  which  the  station 


is  named  are  south  of  the  creek,  and  plainly 
visible. 

Hallvitte, — named  after  a  noted  contractor 
who  graded  the  road  through  this  part  of 
the  valley.  A  few  posts  and  adobe  walls  are 
all  that  remain  of  the  camp.  It  is  simply 
a  side  track,  800.9  miles  from  Omaha,  with 
an  elevation  of  6,590  feet. 

Point  of  Koc1(8 — is  a  station  with  a  his- 
tory. It  was  formerly  quite  a  town,  but  its 
glory  has  departed  with  the  causes  which 
brought  it  into  existence.  It  was  formerly 
the  point  of  departure  and  the  outfitting 
place  for  the  Sweetwater  Gold  District,  South, 
Pass  City,  Atlantic  City,  Camp  Stambaugh, 
and  other  places  in  the  region  of  the  Great 
South  Pass  at  the  foot  of  Wind  River 
Mountains,  and  is  the  nearest  railroad  point 
to  those  places,  to-day,  with  a  good  wagon 
road  not  much  traveled.  Distance  to  South 
Pass  City,  65  miles.  The  rocks  from  which 
this  place  is  named  are  on  a  high  point 
south  of  the  track,  and  a  little  east  of  the 
station.  They  seem  in  the  distance  like  faint 
outlines  of  huge  perpendicular  columns,  not 
very  high,  but  really  365  feet  perpendicular 
above  their  base  surroundings.  Their  summit 
is  about  1,100  feet  above  the  track.  At  the 
base  of  the  rocks  proper,  and  about  735  feet 
above  the  track,  seven  sulphur  springs  break 
out,  three  of  which  are  large  ones,  the  balance 
being  small. 

North  of  the  track,  and  three-fourths  of  a 
mile  west  of  the  station,  is  an  iron  spring, 
reputed  to  possess  remarkable  medicinal  qual- 
ities, several  invalids,  especially  females,  hav- 
ing been  highly  benefited  by  drinking  and 
bathing  in  its  waters.  Four  miles  north  of 
the  station  is  a  huge  sulphur  spring,  with 
water  pouring  forth  from  the  ground.  The 
artesian  well,  which  supplies  the  watei- 
tank  here,  is  700  feet  deep.  Water  is  pumped 
out  by  steam  power.  Wells  &  Fargo 's  Over- 
land  Express  Company  had  a  station  here, 
and  their  old  adobe  buildings,  rapidly  going 
into  decay,  may  still  be  seen  across  the 
creek,  at  the  base  of  the  bluffs.  In  the 
"  piping "  times  of  the  town  several  build- 
ings were  commenced,  but  the  collapse  was 
so  sudden  that  they  were  never  completed. 
This  station  is  806.7  miles  from  Omaha,  and 
6,490  feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  now  a  place 
of  large  coal  interests,  over  one  hundred 
car  loads  per  day  being  shipped.  There 
is  also  an  artesian  well  one  thousand  and  fif- 
teen feet  deep. 

TJiayer, — simply  a  side  track,  812  miles 
from  Omaha,  with  an  elevation  of  6,425 
feet.  The  moving  trains  will  give  the  tourist 
an  ever-varying  view  of  the  grand  and  beau- 
tiful scenery  of  this  valley. 

Salt  Wells, — 818.2  miles  from  the  eastern 


98 


terminus  of  the  road,  and  6,360  feet  above 
the  sea.  It  is  a  telegraph  station,  and  in 
the  construction  period  of  the  road,  was  a 
place  where  considerable  timber,  wood,  etc., 
was  delivered.  The  water  from  the  well  here 
has  a  saltish,  alkaline  taste,  hence  the  name. 
Three  and  one-half  miles  north,  there  is  a  salt 
or  alkali  basin,  which  has  no  visible  outlet  in 
which  the  brackish  waters  stand  the  most  of 
the  year. 
JSaxter, — 826.2  miles  from  Omaha;  eleva- 


its  entire  line.  Rock  Springs  coal  for  domestic 
purposes  is  only  surpassed  by  anthracite.  It 
has  but  little  of  the  sulphurous  smell  of  other 
soft  coal,  burns  into  ashes  without  clinkers,  and 
without  the  black  soot  which  characterizes  other 
coal.  These  mines,  with  others,  were  formerly 
operated  by  the  Wyoming  Coal  Company. 
Their  product  is  annually  increasing ;  wherever 
the  superior  merits  of  the  coal  have  become 
known  it  speedily  supplants  other  kinds  in  use. 
In  1880  the  company  mined  200,000  tons,  or 


CASTLE  ROCK. 


tion,  6,300  feet — A  side  track  where  passenger 
trains  do  not  stop.  The  valley  narrows  in  this 
vicinity,  and  the  rugged  rocks  with  their  ragged 
edges,  if  possible  become  more  interesting  to  the 
observer. 

Rock  Sprinfftt, — 831.6  miles  from  Omaha, 
and  6,280  feet  above  the  sea.  This  is  the  great 
coal  station  on  the  line  of  the  Union  Pacific 
Road.  The  company  not  only  furnishes  the 
finest  lignite  coal  to  be  found,  for  its  own  use, 
but  supplies  the  market  at  every  point  along 


20,000  cars  allowing  the  usual  ten  tons  per  car. 
They  did  not,  however,  ship  this  number  of  cars 
as  considerable  coal  is  furnished  to  all  the  en- 
gines that  pass,  and  consumed  by  the  people 
living  in  the  town.  They  are  now  working  two 
veins,one  sixand  the  other  about  ninefeet  in  thick- 
ness. The  Artesian  well  here  is  1,145  feet  deep. 

Wil1cin»t — 840.6  miles  from  Omaha,  with 
an  elevation  of  6,200  feet.  A  side  track  for 
passing  trains  between  Rock  Springs  and 

Green  River. — which  is  the  end  of  the  Lara- 


99 


mie  division  of  the  road,  273.8  miles  from  that 
place,  and  846.6  miles  from  Omaha,  with  an  ele- 
vation of  6,140  feet.  This  is  a  regular  eating- 
station,  breakfast  and  supper,  and  is  now  one  of 
the  best  kept  hostelries  on  the  road.  This  place 
will  eventually  be  a  popular  resort  for  those  who 
are  seeking  for  fossiliferous  remains,  and  those 
who  delight  in  fishing.  Here  is  the  outfitting 
point  for  hunting  and  fishing  parties  who 
desire  to  go  either  north  or  south,  and  here 
is  the  head  center  for  Rocky  Mountain  spec- 
imens, fossils,  petrifactions,  etc.,  and  travelers 
would  like  to  know  beforehand  just  what  accom- 
modations they  can  obtain.  Mr.  Kitchen  is  able 
to  provide  for  all,  in  elegant  style,  at  reasonable 
prices.  Here,  also,  he  has  on  exhibition  and  for 
sale  the  specimens  alluded  to — such  as  beautiful 
moss  agates,  fossil  fish,  petrified  shells  and  wood, 
with  othars  which  we  are  not  able  to  name.  Par- 


others  to  reclaim  the  soil,  but  thus  far 
with  indifferent  success,  though  Mr.  Fields 
was  quite  successful,  in  1875,  with  a  crop  of 
potatoes,  cabbages,  turnips,  radishes,  and  other 
"garden  truck." 

Stages  leave  here  for  Big  Horn,  Sweetwater, 
and  other  towns  tri-weekly.  The  old  mud 
huts  are  beginning  to  find  occupants  again. 
The  Desert  House  is  the  only  hotel,  a 
pleasant  place  with  its  flowers,  ferns,  and 
pictures. 

The  high  projecting  tower  north  of  the 
track,  crowning  a  bluff,  is  625  feet  higher  than 
the  river  level  below,  and  about  615  feet  higher 
than  the  track.  Other  rocks,  as  "  The  Sisters  " 
and  "  The  Twin  Sisters  "  will  be  readily  recog- 
nized by  the  passing  traveler. 

"  Wake  up,  wake  up,"  said  an  old  lady  to  her 
husband,  as  the  train  approached  the  station  one 


THE  TWIX  SISTKRS,  GREEN  RIVER. 


ties  of  men  are  employed  to  search  the  hills, 
mountains  and  valleys  in  this  vicinity,  for  these 
specimens,  and  when  found,  to  bring  them  in. 
The  stock  is,  therefore,  continually  replenished 
with  rich  and  rare  gems  and  fossils,  and  they 
may  here  be  obtained  at  any  tim?. 

Baing  the  end  of  a  division,  Green  Rirer  has  a 
large  roundhouse  with  fifteen  stalls,  and  the 
usual  machine  and  repair  shops.  The  railroad 
bursts  into  the  valley  through  a  narrow  gorge 
between  two  hills,  then  turns  to  the  right  and 
enters  the  town,  crossing  the  river  beyond  on  a 
wooden  truss  bridge.  The  old  adobe  town,  re- 
mains of  which  are  still  visible,  was  on  the  bot- 
tom-land directly  in  front  of  the  gorge. 

Green  River  is  now  the  county-seat  of 
Sweetwater  County,  Wyoming,  and  has  a 
population  of  nearly  500  persons.  Efforts 
have  been  made  by  Mr.  Fields  and  a  few 


morning  last  year ;  "  here  is  Solomon's  temple 
petrified,"  said  she,  as  she  gave  him  another 
shake.  The  old  gentleman  rubbed  his  eyes,  gave 
another  yawn,  and  finally  looked  out,  to  see  what 
excites  the  curiosity  of  every  traveler,  as  he 
arrives  at  this  place.  Sure  enough  ;  it  seems  as 
though  some  great  temple  once  stood  here,  or 
several  of  them,  and  in  the  wrecks  of  time,  left 
their  gigantic  pillars  standing,  as  a  reminder  of 
their  former  greatness. 

Ttie  Green  Hirer. — The  peculiar  color  of 
this  river  is  not  owing  to  the  fact  of  any  discolora- 
tion of  the  water  ;  that,  when  the  banks  of  the 
stream  are  not  filled  by  freshets  of  itself  or  some 
of  its  tributaries,  is  very  pure  and  sweet,  and  of 
the  usual  color  of  clear  water,  but  is  owing  to 
the  green  shale  through  which  it  runs,  and  which 
can  readily  be  seen  in  the  bluffs  in  the  vicinity 
and  for  quite  a  distance  up  Black's  Fork,  and 


JOO 


PETRIFIED  FISH  CUT,  GREEK  RIVER. 


which  is  supposed  to  contain  arsenic  or  chloride 
of  copper,  which  becomes  detached  by  drainage 
and  fastens  itself  to  the  pebble  stones  and  bot- 
tom of  the  stream,  causing  the  water,  as  you 
look  into  it,  to  bear  the  same  color.  This  river 
rises  in  the  Wyoming  and  Wind  River  Mount- 
ains, is  fed  by  numerous  tributaries,  and  flows 
in  a  general  southerly  direction,  until  it  unites 
with  the  Colorado  River.  The  scenery  along  its 
banks,  most  always  rugged,  in  some  places  is 
sublime.  Where  it  is  crossed  by  the  railroad,  its 
valley  is  narrow,  enclosed  on  either  side  by  high 
bluffs,  which  have  been  washed  into  numerous 
fanciful  shapes  by  the  storms  of  time,  and 
which  are  crowned,  in  many  instances,  by  col- 
urns,  or  towers,  forcibly  reminding  one  of  the 
towers,  battlements  and  castles,  spoken  of  in 
the  old  feudal  times.  Its  tributaries,  nearly 
all  have  narrow  fertile  valleys,  which  are  be- 
ing occupied  by  stockmen,  and  which  afford 
both  hay  and  shelter  for  stock.  South  of 
the  railroad,  it  winds  through  the  famous  Col- 
orado Canon,  so  well  and  grandly  described 
by  Major  Powell,  the  explorer.  The  river  and 
its  surroundings  must  from  their  very  nature, 
always  be  a  source  of  interest  to  the  scien- 
tist, and  will  soon  become  a  popular  resort 
for  fossil  hunters,  gem  searchers  and  sports- 
men. 

Brown's  Hole.— This  is  a  beautiful  scene 
just  below  Red  Canon,  the  water  is  calm,  quiet, 
and  peaceful,  like  a  mirror,  with  wonderfully  dis- 
tinct reflections.  Here  is  the  last  quiet  stretch 
of  the  river  ere  it  enters  into  the  turbulent  pas- 
sage of  the  deeper,  gloomier,  and  larger  canon 


WEST  BANK  GREEN  K1VER,  LOOKING  EASTWARD. 

below.  The  sandy  beach,  at  the  left,  shows  the 
foot-prints  of  numerous  deer,  bears,  and  elk  that 
frequent  the  bank. 

Brown's  Hole  is  an  expansion  of  the  val- 
ley of  Green  River,  and  is  about  five  miles 
wide  and  thirty  miles  long.  This  is  a  name  given 
by  the  old  trappers, — 40  years  ago,  or  more — and 
has  been  a  favorite  wintering  place  for  stock. 
Little  or  no  snow  falls  in  the  valleys,  and  they  are 
so  well  surrounded  by  high  mountains,  that  the 
bleak  winds  of  winter  cannot  reach  them.  The 
valley  is  covered  with  wild  sage  and  bunch 
grass — and  at  the  time  of  the  visit  of  the  Hayden 
Exploring  Party,  there  were  2,200  head  of  Texas 
cattle,  just  driven  in,  to  fatten  for  the  California 
market.  In  the  north  sides  of  the  valley,  the  beds 
of  rock  have,  by  the  action  of  the  weather,  become 
shaped  into  innumerably  beautiful,  architectural 
forms,  like  the  ruins  of  pyramids. 

Giant's  Cliilt. — This  is  fairly  a  giant  in  di- 
mensions,—  as  its  proportions  are  really  colos- 
sal. It  rises  with  almost  perpendicular  sides, 
and  is  impossible  to  scale  by  ascent.  The  rock 
is  interesting  for  its  peculiar -formation,  as  it 
bears  evidences  of  having  once  existed  at  the 
bottom  of  a  lake.  It  lies  in  regular  strata,  all 
horizontal,  and  most  of  these  contain  fossils  of 
plants  and  fishes.  The  plants  are  all  extinct 
species,  and  closely  allied  to  our  fruit  and  forest 
trees  ;  among  them,  however,  are  some  palms, 
which  indicated  this  to  be,  in  original  times, 
vhen  the  deposit  was  formed,  a  very  warm 
climate.  Professor  Hayden,  in  examining  this 
rock,  and  others  near,  found  the  plants  in  the 
upper  part  of  the  rock,  and  about  a  hundred  feet 


101 


Ibwer  down,  discovered  the  remains  of  fishes,  all 
of  them  belonging  to  fresh  water,  and  all  extinct 
species.  They  were  imbedded  in  oily  shales,  and 
insects  were  found  with  them,  in  a  remarkable 
state  of  preservation.  With  the  fishes  were  also 
found  feathers  of  birds,  and  a  few  reeds. 

Peculiarities  of  the  Green  River  Rocks. 
— To  the  peculiar  formation  of  rocks  which  gives 
all  this  region  its  characteristic  features,  is  given 
the  name  of  the  Green  River  Shales.  The  sedi- 
ments are  arranged  in  regular  layers,  mostly 
quite  thin,  but  varying  from  the  thickness  of  a 
knife-blade  to  several  feet.  These  peculiar 
layers,  or  bands,  are  quite  varied  in  shades  of 
color.  In  some  of  the  thin  slabs  of  shale,  are 
thousands  of  beautiful  impressions  of  fish,  some- 
times a  dozen  or  so  within  the  compass  of  a 


ters  of  the  river  are  of  the  purest  emerald,  witk 
banks  and  sand-bars  of  glistening  white.  The 
perpendicular  bluff  to  the  left  is  nearly  1,500  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  river,  and  of  a  bright  red 
and  yellow.  When  illuminated  by  full  sunlight, 
it  is  grand,  and  deserves  its  full  title  "  The  Flam- 
ing Gorge."  It  is  the  entrance  to  a  gateway  to 
the  still  greater  wonders  and  grandeurs  of  the 
famous  Red  Canon  that  cuts  its  way  to  a  depth 
of  3,000  feet,  between  this  point  and  its  entrance 
into  Brown's  Hole. 

Leaving  Green  River  the  railroad  crosses  the 
bridge,  turns  to  the  right,  and  runs  along  under 
the  bluffs  —  the  highest  being  about  350  feet 
high,  and  almost  over  the  river  in  one  place — for 
about  three  miles,  when  it  again  turns  to  the 
left,  passing  the  divide  where  there  is  an  un- 


GIANT'S  CLUB,  GKEEN  KIVEK. 


square  foot.  Impressions  of  insects  and  water 
plants  are  also  sometimes  found.  At  Burning 
Hock  Cut,  the  road  passes  through  thin  layers 
of  a  sort  of  cream-colored,  chalky  limestone, 
interspersed  with  strata  of  a  dark -brown  color, 
saturated  with  petroleum,  so  as  to  burn  freely. 
The  Cut  derives  its  name  Burning  Rocks,  from 
the  fact  that  during  the  building  of  the  road 
the  rocks  became  ignited  and  burned  for  some 
days,  illuminating  the  labor  of  the  workmen  by 
night — and  filling  the  valley  with  dense  clouds 
of  smoke  by  day. 

Curious  Scenes  along  the  Green  River. 
— At  the  mouth  of  Henry's  Fork  there  is  a  view 
on  Green  River  of  great  beauty,  which  derives  its 
principal  charm  from  its  vivid  colors.  The  wa- 


GIANT'S  TEA-POT,  GREEN  KIVEK. 


named   side  track,   and    along   a  hilly,  broken 
country. 

The  Sweetwater. — This  stream  rises  in  the 
Wind  River  Mountains,  directly  north  of  Point 
of  Rocks  and  Salt  Wells,  in  the  great  South 
Pass,  discovered  by  General  Fremont,  and  runs  in 
a  general  easterly  direction  uniting  with  the 
North  Platte  River  about  80  miles  north  of  Fort 
Steele.  South  of  it  is  the  Sweet  water  Mountain 
Range.  North  of  it  lay  the  Rattlesnake  Hills, 
which  are  said  to  be  one  continuous  chain  of 
broken  ragged  rocks  heaped  upon  each  other  in 
confused  masses.  They  are  utterly  barren  and 
desolate,  and  beyond  the  snakes  which  give  them 
their  name,  are  avoided  by  almost  every  living 
thing.  Near  the  mouth  of  this  river,  Independence 


102 


Rock,  a  noted  landmark  of  the  plains,  rises.  It 
is  on  the  line  of  the  Indian  trail,  to  the  upper 
North  Platte  Region,  and  near  it  has  been  found 
immense  deposits  of  soda  in  lakes  which  are 
said  to  be  nearly  pure,  and  which  are  soon  to  be 
worked.  The  valley  of  this  stream  is  rarely 
covered  with  snow  in  winter,  and  affords  ex- 
cellent grazing  for  stock  the  entire  year.  Were 
it  not  so  exposed  to  Indian  raids  in  summer,  it 
would  soon  be  occupied.  The  care  of  stock  re- 
quires horses  and  beyond  the  killing  of  a  few 
head  for  beef  occasionally,  the  Indians  do  not 
trouble  it ;  the  horses  are  what  they  want,  and 
what  they  come  after  and  scalps  will  be  taken, 
if  necessary  to  obtain  them.  Placer,  gulch  and 
quartz  gold  has  been  discovered  in  the  Wind 
River  Mountains,  near  the  Great  South  Pass, 
and  fortunes  have  been  made  and  lost  in  that 
mining  district  in  a  very  short  time.  They  have 
been  made  by  the  mining  sharks,  who  sold  their 
mines  to  the  inexperienced  and  uninitiated 
from  the  East,  and  lost  by  the  parties 
who  were  "taken  in."  To  the  east  of  the 
Wind  River  Mountains  the  Shoshone  or 
Snake  River  Indian  reservation  has  been 
laid  off.  The  principal  towns  are  Atlantic 
City,  South  Pass  City,  and  Miner's  Delight, 
a  mining  town.  Near  Atlantic  City  is  Camp 
Stambaugh,  and  still  farther  north,  on  the 
east  side  of  the  same  mountain,  is  Camp 
Brown,  the  latter  being  near  the  boundary 
line  of  the  Indian  reservation  referred  to. 
Very  fine  hot  mineral  springs  have  been 
found  on  or  near  this  reservation.  The 
main  road  by  which  these  places  are 
reached,  leads  out  from  Bryan  and  Green 
Kiver.  From  the  latter  place  four-horse 
coaches  are  run  tri-weekly,  while  from 
the  former  a  great  quantity  of  govern- 
ment freight  is  annually  shipped.  The 
road  crosses  the  river  near  the  mouth 
of  Big  Sandy  Creek,  and  follows  up 
this  stream,  and  its  south  branch  to 
Pacific  Spring,  after  which  it  crosses  a 
low  divide  to  a  tributary  of  the  Sweetwater. 
While  the  road  from  Point  of  Rocks  is  much 
shorter  yet  this  route  is  said  to  be  the  best  as  it 
follows  the  valley  of  a  stream  all  the  way,  and 
avoids  sand-hills  which  are  very  trying  to  stock. 
From  Green  River  the  road  at  present  traveled, 
passes  up  the  valley  until  it  strikes  the  Big 
Sandy,  where  it  intersects  the  road  from  Bryan. 
The  nearest  peaks  seen  on  the  north  side  of  the 
track,  as  you  pass  the  divide  just  west  of  Creston, 
are  those  of  the  real  Rocky  Mountain  Range,  and 
extend  in  a  north-westerly  direction  to  the  head 
of  the  Wind  River  Mountains,  from  which  they 
are  only  divided  by  the  Sweetwater  Valley.  Be- 
fore the  Lodge  Pole  Valley  Route  was  discovered 
via  the  Cheyenne  Pass,  the  North  Platte  and 
Sweetwater  Route  via  the  South  Pass  and  Big 
Sandy  was  the  main,  in  fact  the  great  overland 


route,  traveled  by  the  Mormons  and  Cali- 
fornia emigrants.  At  the  time  the  railroad  was 
built,  however,  the  Lodge  Pole  Route  was  the 
one  mainly  traveled.  The  vast  region  north  of 
the  railroad  between  the  Black  Hills  and  Green 
River  Valley,  contains  within  itself  the  germs  of 
a  mighty  empire,  only  waiting  for  the  united 
efforts  of  capital  and  labor  for  development. 

Hryan, — over  13  miles  from  Green  River, 
and  860  miles  from  Omaha,  with  an  elevation  of 
6,340  feet  or  just  200  feet  higher  than  at  Green 
River.  This  station  was  formerly  a  division  ter- 
minus at  which  time  it  was  a  place  of  consider- 
able- importance.  The  government  has  a  depot 
here,  where  its  freight  for  Camp  Stambaugh, 
Camp  Brown  and  other  places  is  received.  The 
majority  of  the  freight  for  the  Sweetwater  Min- 
ing District  and  the  settlements  at  the  base  of 
the  Wind  River  Mountains,  South  Pass  City, 
Atlantic  City,  etc.,  is  also  shipped  from  this 
place,  the  distance  to  the  latter  city  being  90 
miles.  Bryan  is  the  first  station  where  the  rail- 
road strikes  Black's  Fork  of  the  Green  River. 
This  fork  rises  in  the  Uintah  Mountains,  directly 
south  of  Piedmont,  and  runs  in  a  north-easterly 
direction  till  it  reaches  Bryan,  then  turns  toward 
the  south-west  and  unites  with  Green  River  some 
twenty  miles  below  *he  town  of  Green  .  liver. 
The  valley  at  Bryan  is  quite  broad  in  places,  and 
thickly  covered  with  sago  brush  and  greasewood. 
The  soil  is  said  to  be  fertile  and  capable  of  pro- 
ducing large  crops  with  irrigation. 

Fort  Bridger,  eleven  miles  south  of  Carter 
Station,  is  on  this  stream,  and  ,it  that  place  over 
300  bushels  of  potatoes  have  been  raised  from  a 
single  half  acre  of  ground.  This  shows  what 
this  virgin  soil  can  do  if  irrigated.  The  table- 
land on  the  elevated  benches  that  the  traveler 
will  observe  on  either  side  of  the  road,  is  said  to 
be  equally  rich,  and  would  be  equally  as  prolific 
if  it  could  be  irrigated.  As  you  approach  Bryan, 
look  away  to  the  south  and  south-east,  and  you 
will  behold  the  towering  peaks  of  the  Uintab 
Mountains,  70  or  80  miles  off.  They  do  not 
look  so  distant,  but  then  distance  is  very  decep- 
tive in  this  country.  Bryan  is  a  telegraph  sta- 
tion with  a  store,  saloon,  and  a  few  houses — all 
that's  left  to  tell  the  story  of  its  better  and  de- 
parted days.  Its  early  history  is  the  same  as  all 
the  railroad  towns  we  have  mentioned,  with 
roughs,  cut-throats,  gamblers,  villains,  etc.,  and 
their  cleaning  out  by  vigilance,  committees,  under 
law  administered  by  "Judge  Lynch." 

We  now  pursue  our  wray  up  the  valley  of 
Black's  Fork.  Four  miles  west  of  Bryan,  the 
road  first  crosses  this  stream  which  it  follows  to 
Church  Buttes. 

Marston — is  the  next  station — a  side  track 
21  miles  from  Green  River,  and  867.6  miles  from 
Omaha  ;  elevation,  6,245  feet.  From  the  appar- 
ently level  plains  which  the  road  crosses,  abrupt 
buttes  or  bluffs  rise  as  if  built  by  human  hands 


103 


as  mounds  to  conceal  some  treasure,  or  to  perpet- 
uate some  remarkable  incident  in  history.  They 
form  a  curious  study,  and  awaken  no  little  in- 
terest in  the  mind  of  an  observing  traveler.  To 
the  left  of  the  track  there  are  a  number  of  low 
buttes  as  you  approach 

Granger, — the  next  station,  877.2  miles  from 
Omaha,  and  6,270  feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  a 
telegraph  station,  named  in  honor  of  an  old  set- 
tler here.  The  Union  Pacific  Company  is  now 
building  its  "Oregon  Branch"  from  Granger 
northwest  via  Soda  Springs  and  Snake  River 
Valley,  Idaho,  to  Portland,  Oregon.  The  branch 
is  to  be  completed  in  1882,  and  will  be  a  sev- 
eral hundred  miles  shorter  route  from  the 
East  to  Oregon  than  any  other  projected 
line.  The  road  here  crosses  Ham's  Fork,  a 
tributary  of  Black's  Fork,  which  lises  some  70 


to  Evanston,  in  great  profusion.  The  most  of 
them,  however,  are  valueless,  but  occasionally 
specimens  of  rare  beauty  are  picked  up.  On 
what  are  called  "  the  bad  lands,"  about  7  miles 
south  of  the  road,  however,  the  finest  agates, 
with  other  beautiful  gems,  are  obtained  with  lit- 
tle difficulty.  In  Ham's  Fork  water  agates, 
creamy  white,  and  amber  colored,  may  be  occa- 
sionally picked  up.  They  are  quite  rare,  and 
when  cut  by  the  lapidary,  are  held  to  be  of  con- 
siderable value. 

View  of  Uintah  Mountains. — The  view 
we  give  an  illustration  of,  on  page  78,  is  one  of 
the  finest  in  the  Far  West.  The  scene  is  taken 
from  Photograph  Ridge,  at  an  elevation  of 
10,829  feet.  In  the  foreground  is  a  picturesque 
group  of  the  mountain  pines.  In  the  middle 
distance  flows  Black's  Fork.  The  peaks  or  coneg 


CHURCH    BUTTES 


miles  north-west,  and  which,  the  old  settlers  say, 
is  really  the  main  stream  of  the  two.  The  banks 
of  this  stream,  as  far  as  you  can  see,  are  lined 
with  bushes,  and  farther  up,  its  valley  produces 
luxuriant  grass,  from  which  hay  is  cut,  and  upon 
which  numerous  herds  of  cattle  feed.  An  oval 
peak  rises  on  the  north  side  of  the  track,  beyond 
which,  in  the  distance,  may  be  seen  a  range  of 
bluffs,  or  mountains,which  rise  up  between  Ham's 
Fork  and  Green  River.  From  Granger  to  the 
next  station,  are  buttes  on  both  sides  of  the 
track,  while,  to  the  left,  the  high  peaks  of  the 
Uintah  Range  tower  up  in  the  distance,  affording 
one  of  the  grandest  views  on  the  line  of  the  road. 
This  is  the  region  of  moss  agates,  gems  of  vari- 
ous kinds,  and  precious  stones.  Agates  are  found 
all  along  the  line  of  the  road  from  Green  River 


ON  BLACK'S  FORK. 

in  the  distance  have  their  summits  far  a'taov*  the 
limits  of  perpetual  snow,  and  from  1.500  ta  2,000 
feet  above  the  springs  that  are  the  sources  of  the 
streams  below.  These  cones  are  distinctly  strati- 
fied, mostly  horizontal,  and  there  are  frequently 
vast  piles  of  purplish,  compact  quartzite,  which 
resemble  Egyptian  pyramids  on  a  gigantic  scale, 
without  a  trace  of  grit,  vegetation,  or  water.  One 
of  these  remarkable  structures  stands  out  isolated 
from  the  rest,  in  the  middle  of  the  Valley  of 
Smith's  Fork,  and  is  so  much  like  a  Gothic 
church,  that  the  United  States  Surveying  Party 
gave  it  the  name  of  Hayden's  Cathedral,  after 
the  leader  of  the  exploration. 

Church  BiitteSr-887.7  miles  from  Omaha ; 
elevation,  6,317  feet.  The  particular  buttes,- 
from  which  the  station  derives  its  name,  are 


104 


about  10  miles  south  of  the  station,  on  the  old 
overland  stage  road,  but  buttes  rise  up  from  the 
level  plains  in  this  vicinity  in  every  direction. 
They  are,  however,  fast  washing  away.  The 
annual  increase  in  rain-fall  on  this  desert,  since 
the  completion  of  the  railroad  and  the  stretch- 
ing of  five  telegraph  wires,  is  remarkable,  and 
is  especially  noticed  by  the  old  settlers.  These 
rains,  with  the  frosts  of  winter,  are  having  a 
noticeable  effect  on  the  buttes.  Isolated  peaks 
have  disappeared  entirely —  and  prominent  pro- 
jections have  been  materially  lessened.  There 
are  still  a  large  number,  however,  chiseled  by 
the  action  oi  frosts  and  rains  into  fantastic 
shapes  which  will  excite  the  attention  and  rivet 
the  gaze  of  the  traveler,  as  he  passes  by ;  but,  if 
their  annual  diminution  continues,  in  less  than 
half  a  century,  thay  will  have  lost  their  interest. 
Near  this  station  is  the  last  crossing  of  Black's 
Fork,  which  now  bears  away  to  the  left,  while 
the  road  ascends  another  of  its  branches,  called 
the  Big  Muddy.  What  has  been  said  in  refer- 
ence to  abates,  etc.,  of  the  other  stations,  will 
apply  to  Church  Buttes  with  equal  force. 

Curious  Scientific  Explorations.  — 
Church  Buttes  is  a  curious  formation,  located  on 
the  line  of  the  old  overland  stage  route,  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  east  from  Salt  Lake, 
and  at  this  point  having  an  elevation  of  6,731 
feat.  The  formation  is  part  of  the  Mauvaises 
Terres,  or  Bad  Lands,  and  consists  of  a  vast  de- 
posit of  sedimentary  sandstones,  and  marly  clay, 
in  perfectly  horizontal  strata,  and  contain  within 
their  beds,  some  very  remarkable  paleontological 
remains.  The  peculiar  effects  of  stormy  weather 
and  flood,  in  the  past,  has  carved  the  bluff-lines 
into  the  most  curious  and  fantastic  forms — lofty 
domes  arid  pinnacles,  and  fluted  columns,  these 
rocks  resembling  some  cathedral  of  the  olden 
tim%  standing  in  the  midst  of  desolation. 

Professor  Hayden,  in  speaking  of  them  says, 
"  Distance  lends  a  most  delicious  enchantment  to 
the  scene,  and  the  imagination  can  build  many 
castles  from  out  of  this  mass  of  most  singular 
formation.  A  nearer  approach  dispels  some  of. 
the  illusions,  but  the  mind  is  no  less  impressed 
with  the  infinite  variety  of  detail  and  the  scat- 
tered remains  of  the  extinct  life  of  some  far  dis- 
tant age." 

In  this  section  are  found  "  moss  agates,"  in  the 
greatest  abundance,  being  scattered  all  over  the 
surface  of  the  country.  Standing  upon  one  of 
the  summits  of  the  highest  point  of  the  "  Bad 
Lands,"  Hayden  says,  "as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach,  upon  every  side,  is  a  vast  extent  of  most 
infinite  detail.  It  looks  like  some  ruined  city  of 
the  gods,  blasted,  bare,  desolate,  but  grave,  beyond 
a  mortal's  telling."  In  1870,  a  geological  expedi- 
tion, headed  by  Prof.  O.  C.  Marsh,  of  Yale  College, 
and  known  as  the  "  Yale  College  Expedition  of 
1870  "  —  visited  the  "  Bad  Lands  "  and  made  a 
geological  examination.  They  were  accompanied 


by  Buffalo  Bill,  a  military  troupe,  and  ten  Pawnee 
Indians,  as  guides.  On  the  way,  Professor  Marsh 
endeavored  to  explain  the  mighty  changes  of 
geology  and  the  grand  discoveries  they  would 
make — and  Buffalo  Bill  intimated,  some  of 
them  were  "pretty  tough  yarns."  The  desolation 
of  the  country  can  only  be  imagined,  not  de- 
scribed— hour  after  hour  the  party  marched  over 
burning  sand-hills,  without  rocks  or  trees,  or 
signs  of  water,  while  the  thermometer  stood  at 
110°  in  the  shade  of  the  wagons.  After  fourteen 
hours  in  the  saddle,  one  of  the  soldiers,  exhaust- 
ed with  heat  and  thirst,  finally  exclaimed : 
"  What  did  God  Almif/hty  make  such  as  this  for  1 " 
"  Why,"  replied  another  more  devout  trooper, 
"  God  Almighty  made  the  country  good  enough, 
but  it's  this  deuced  geology  the  professor  talks  about, 
that  spoiled  it  all." 

For  fresh  water  the  party  had  to  thank  the 
favor  of  a  thunder-shower,  during  which  they 
drank  from  the  rims  of  each  other's  hats.  Their 
researches  resulted  in  the  discovery  of  the  re- 
mains of  various  species  of  the  camel,  horse, 
mammals,  and  others  new  to  science.  A  branch 
of  this  expedition  exploring  the  canons  and 
plains  of  Northern  Colorado,  discovered  a  large 
deposit  which  contained  great  quantities  of 
fossil  turtles,  and  rhinoceros,  birds,  and  the  re- 
mains of  the  areodon, — a  remarkable  animal 
combining  the  characteristics  of  the  modern 
sheep,  pig  and  deer.  The  remains  of  another  mon- 
ster, the  Titanolherium,  were  found  of  such  vast 
proportions,  that  a  lower  jaw  measured  over  four 
feet  in  length.  At  Antelope  Station,  in  one  of 
these  areodon  beds,  remains  were  found  of 
several  species  of  horse ; — one  a  three-toed  ani- 
mal, and  another  which,  although  full  grown,  had 
attained  the  height  of  but  two  feet.  In  an  ex- 
ploration near  Green  River — the  expedition 
found  petrified  fishes  in  abundance,  and  a  small 
bed,  containing  fossil  insects,  a  rare  discov- 
ery. Here  -were  beetles  and  dragons,  flies  and 
grasshoppers;  a  gigantic  fossil  mosquito,  and 
an  extinct  flea  of  great  dimensions  were  also 
discovered.  At  Fort  Wallace,  Ks.,  the  party 
found  a  trophy  in  the  form  of  a  skeleton  of  a 
sea  serpent  nearly  complete,  which  alone  re- 
quired four  days  to  dig  out  and  bring  to  the 
camp.  This  monster  when  alive  could  not  have 
been  less  than  60  feet.  It  had  a  slender  eel- 
like  body  and  tail,  with  mouth  like  a  boa-con- 
strictor. 

Among  the  curious  incidents  which  happened, 
was  the  discovery  of  a  genuine  Sioux  Indian  bur- 
ial ground.  The  dead  were  reposing  on  platforms 
of  boughs  elevated  above  the  ground,  and  sup- 
ported at  the  four  corners  by  poles  about  eight 
feet  in  height.  On  one  of  these  tombs  lay  two 
bodies, — a  woman,  decked  in  beads  and  bracelets, 
and  a  scalpless  brave,  with  war  paint  still  on  the 
cheeks,  and  holding  in  his  crumbling  hand, 
a  rusty  shot-gun,  and  a  pack  of  cards.  Several 


105 


incidents  occurred  from  the  abundance  of  rattle- 
snakes. Several  animals  were  bitten  by  them, 
and  the  country  at  some  places  fairly  swarmed 
with  them.  Numbers  were  killed  every  day  by 
the  horses'  feet,  and  while  members  of  the  party 
would  occasionally  bathe  in  the  river,  these 
reptiles  would  bask  upon  the  bank  of  the  stream 
near  their  clothes,  as  one  of  them  says,  "  Their 
humming  soon  became  an  old  tune,  and  the 
charm  of  shooting  the  wretches  wore  away  for 
all  but  one,  who  was  collecting  their  rattles  as  a 
necklace  for  his  lady  love." 

Hampton, — a  little  over  50  miles  from  Green 
River,  897.1  miles  from  Omaha,  and  6,500  feet 
above  the  sea.  It  is  simply  a  side  track  where, 
occasionally,  trains  meet  and  pass.  Approaching 
this  station,  two  large  buttes  lift  themselves 
above  their  fellows  on  the  left  side  of  the  track, 
while  beyond,  a  low,  dark  ridge  may  be  seen  cov- 
ered with  cedars.  In  this  ridge  is  an  abundance 
of  game  and  good  hunting  at  almost  any  season 
of  the  year.  The  game  consists  of  elk,  coyotes, 
wolves,  deer,  bears,  etc.  About  three  miles  be- 
fore you  reach  the  next  station,  you  will  notice 
off  to  the  right  of  the  track,  a  long,  low,  dark  ridge. 
It  is  also  covered  with  cedars,  and  it  strikes  the 
road  near  Bridger  Station.  There  are  also  plenty 
of  cedars  in  the  bluffs  to  the  left  before  you 
reach 

Carter, — the  next  station,  which  is  904.6 
miles  from  Omaha,  and  6,550  feet  above  the  sea. 
The  station  is  named  in  honor  of  Col.  Dick 
Carter,  whose  home  is  here,  and  who  has  lived 
here  since  the  completion  of  the  railroad.  It  is 
the  nearest  railroad  station  to  Fort  Bridger, 
which  is  located  on  Black's  Fork,  11  miles  due 
south,  and  reached  by  daily  stages  from  this 
point.  Near  Carter,  also,  one  can  hardly  go 
amiss  of  moss  agates  and  other  curious  speci- 
mens. About  twenty  miles,  a  little  northwest 
of  this  station,  is  a  mountain  of  coal  on  a  tribu- 
tary of  Little  Muddy.  In  this  mountain  are 
found  three  splendid  veins  of  coal,  of  total 
thickness  of  eighty-seven  feet,  which  can  be 
traced  over  ten  miles;  also  layers  of  slate 
twenty-five  to  thirty  feet  in  depth.  The  coal 
resembles  cannel  coal,  and  makes  excellent 
coke  for  smelting  purposes.  Seven  miles  north 
of  Carter  is  a  white  sulphur  spring,  a  chaly- 
beate spring,  and,  also,  a  fine  fresh  water 
spring.  The  branch  railroad  from  Granger 
will  pass  these  springs,  and  reach  the  moun- 
tain of  coal  in  a  distance  of  fifty  miles. 

Smith's  Fork,  a  branch  of  Black's,  is  about 
five  miles  south  of  Fort  Bridger,  and  Henry's 
Fork,  of  Green  River,  is  some  twenty-five 
miles  still  farther  south,  and  is  noted  for  its 
rich  grazing.  It  is  mostly  occupied  by  stock- 
men as  a  winter  range,  where  large  nnmbers  of 
cattle  are  annually  wintered  without  hay. 
Smith's  and  Henry's  Forks  are  filled  with  trout, 
and  afford  fine  fishing,  while  there  is  an  abund- 


ance of  game,  such  as  elk,  deer,  antelope  and 
bear,  to  attract  the  hunter  and  sportsman. 
Numerous  sage  hens  give  fine  shooting  in  the 
summer  months.  Carter  is  a  telegraph  station, 
and  has  a  store  from  which  ranchmen,  hunters, 
and  others  obtain  supplies.  A  government 
road  to  Fort  Ellis,  Montana  and  the  Yellow- 
stone Park,  has  been  surveyed  from  this  station 
by  way  of  Bear  River  Valley  and  the  Soda 
Springs  in  Idaho.  It  is  some  eighty  miles 
nearer  than  by  Ogden  or  Corinne,  over  a  fine 
route. 

Bridger — 914.1  mile  from  Omaha,  with  an 
elevation  of  6,780  feet.  It  is  a  telegraph  sta- 
tion named  in  honor  of  Jim  Bridger,  who  was 
a  noted  hunter  and  guide  for  government  and 
other  expeditions.  Since  leaving  Bryan  we 
have  been  going  up  hill  all  the  time,  and  our 
ascent  will  now  be  rapid  until  we  pass  the 
divide  between  Piedmont  and  Aspen.  Near 
here  is  a  cliff  five  hundred  feet  high,  called 
"  Piut'?s  Outlook"  which  can  be  seen  on  the 
left  of  the  track  three  miles  west. 

Leroy  is  the  next  station.  It  is  919.1  miles 
from  Omaha,  and  7,123  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  In  passing  over  only  five  miles  of 
road,  we  have  ascended  nearly  350  feet.  Leav- 
ing this  place,  you  will  observe  old  telegraph 
poles  still  standing  on  the  left  of  the  track. 
They  mark  the  line  of  the  old  overland  road. 
About  two  miles  west  of  Leroy,  at  the  base  of 
a  hill  or  bluff,  south  of  the  track,  are  some  ex- 
cellent soda  springs.  They  are  near  the  road, 
and  trains  sometimes  stop  to  enable  passengers 
to  drink  the  water.  The  water  is  highly  recom- 
mended for  the  cure  of  dyspepsia  and  toning- 
up  of  the  system.  The  following  is  an  analysis 
of  the  water  as  made  by  Assistant  Surgeon 
Smart,  of  the  United  States  Army.  It  should 
be  stated,  however,  that  the  very  important 
element  of  carbonic  acid  could  not  be  deter- 
mined, as  much  of  this  had  escaped  while  the 
water  was  in  transit  from  the  spring  to  Camp 
Douglas,  Utah:  GKAINS,  PER  GAL. 

Carbonate  of  Magnesia. 50.680 

Carbonate  of  Lime 58.674 

Sulphate  of  Lime 41.104 

Sulphate  of  Soda  (Glauber's  salts) ....  116.655 
Chloride  of  Sodium  (common  salt) ... .  270.200 
Iron  and  Alumina 1.162 


Total 538,475 

Potassium  is  also  present  in  small  quantity. 
The  hills  and  valleys  in  this  vicinity  con- 
tinue to  abound  in  agates  and  other  curious 
specimens,  while  soda,  iron  and  fresh  water 
springs  are  numerous,  sometimes  in  close 
proximity  to  each  other. 

Piedmont. — Here  the  road,  after  crossing  it, 
leaves  the  Muddy,  which  comes  in  from  the 
south.  This  station  is  ten  miles  from  Leroy, 
929.1  miles  from  Omaha,  and  has  an  elevation  of 


106 


7,540  feet.  In  summer,  the  scenery  along  this 
part  of  the  road  is  delightful,  while  in  winter  the 
storms  are  severe,  the  wind  blowing  almost  a 
constant  gale,  while  the  snow  drifts  mountains 
high.  There  are  several  snow  sheds  along  this 
part  of  the  road,  the  longest  being  on  the  sum- 
mit, 2,700  feet  in  length.  The  road  having  to 
wind  around  the  spurs  and  into  the  depressions 
of  the  hills,  is  very  crooked,  in  one  place  doub- 
ling back  on  itself.  We  are  now  crossing  a  high 
ridge  in  the 
Uintah  Mount- 
ains, and  the 
second  highest 
elevation  on  the 
Union  Pacific. 
Off  to  the  left 
these  mountains 
in  higher, grand- 
er forms,  lift 
their  summits 
toward  the 
clouds,  and  are 
most  always 
covered  with 
snow,  while 
their  sides  are 
lined  with  dark 
green — the  col- 
or of  the  pine 
forests,  which 
partially  envel- 
op them.  While 
the  road  was  be- 
ing built,  large 
quantities  o  f 
ties,  telegraph 
poles  and  bridge 
timber, were  cut 
on  the  Foot 
Hills,  near  these 
mountains,  and 
delivered  to  the 
company.  About 
two  miles  north- 
west of  Pied- 
mont, is  a  won- 
derful Soda 
Spring.  The 
sediment  or  de- 
posits Of  this  INTERIOR  OF  SNOW 

spring  have  built  up  a  conical-shaped  body  with  a 
basin  on  the  top.  In  this  basin  the  water  appears, 
to  a  small  extent,  and  has  evidently  sometime 
had  a  greater  flow  than  at  present ;  but,  as  similar 
springs  have  broken  out  around  the  base  of  this 
cone,  the  pressure  on  the  main  spring  has,  doubt- 
less, been  relieved,  and  its  flow,  consequently, 
lessened.  The  cone  is  about  15  feet  high  and  is 
well  worthy  of  a  visit  from  the  tourist.  At 
Piedmont,  the  traveler  will  first  observe  the  per- 
manent coal  pits,  built  of  stone  and  brick,  which 


are  used  in  this  country  for  the  manufacture  of 
charcoal  for  the  smelting  works  of  Utah.  There 
are  more  of  them  at  Hilliard  and  Evanston,  and 
they  will  be  more  fully  described  then. 

Leaving  Piedmont,  the  road  makes  a  long 
curve,  like  a  horse-shoe  doubling  on  itself,  and, 
finally,  reaches  the  summit  of  the  divide  in  a 
long  snow  shed,  one  of  the  longest  on  the  road. 
Aspen, — the  next  station.  It  is  938.5  miles 
from  Omaha,  and  has  a  reported  elevation  of 

7,835  feet.  It 
is  not  a  greal. 
distance^  only 
about  two  miles 
— from  the  sum- 
mit. Evidences 
of  change  in  the 
formation  of  the 
country  are 
everywhere  visi- 
ble, and  the 
change  affords  a 
marked  relief  to 
the  weary  mo- 
notony of  the 
desolate  plains 
over  which  we 
have  passed. 
Down  the  grade 
we  now  pass 
rapidly,  with 
high  hills  on 
either  side  of 
the  track — 
through  a  lovely 
valley,  with  an 
occasional  fill. 
and  through  a 
deep  cut,  to  the 
next  station. 
Hilliard, — 
This  station, 
opened  for  busi- 
ness in  1873,  is 
943.5  miles  from 
Omaha,  with  an 
elevation  of 
7,310  feet.  The 
town  owes  its 
importance  to 
SHEDS,  u.  P.  B.  B.  the  Hilliard 

Flume  &  Lumber  Company,  which  has  extensive 
property  interests  here,  and  in  the  vicinity.  In 
approaching  the  town  from  Aspen,  the  road 
passes  down  a  "  draw "  or  ravine,  through 
a  cut  on  a  curve,  and  near  this  place 
enters  the  Bear  River  Valley,  one  of  the 
most  beautiful,  and  so  far  as  has  been  demon- 
strated, fertile  valleys  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
Two  things  excite  the  curiosity  of  the  traveler 
if  he  has  never  seen  them  before ;  one  is  the  coal 
pits,  and  the  other  is  the  elevated  flume  under 


107 


which  trains  of  cars  pass.  This  flume,  built  of 
timber  and  boards,  is  24  miles  long,  and  is  2,000 
feet  higher  where  it  first  takes  the  water  from 
Bear  River,  than  where  it  empties  the  same  at 
Milliard.  The  greatest  fall  in  any  one  mile  is 
320  feet.  The  timber  which  is  brought  to  the 
station  by  this  flume,  is  obtained  in  large 
amounts  in  the  foot  hills  of  the  Uintah  Mount- 
ains, or  on  the  mountains  themselves  and  is 
mostly  pine.  The  saw-mill  of  the  company, 
erected  at  the  head  of  this  flume,  has  a  capacity 
of  40,000  feet  in  24  hours,  with  an  engine  of  40 
horse-power. 
Over  2,000,000 
feet  of  lumber 
were  consumed 
in  the  construc- 
tion  of  this 
flume,  and  its 
branches  in  the 
mountains. 
Through  it 
cord-wood,  lum- 
ber, ties  and 
saw-logs  are 
floated  down  to 
the  railroad. 
The  cord-wood 
is  used  for  char- 
coal. You  will 
observe  the  con- 
ical shaped  pits 
in  which  it  is 
made,  near  the 
railway  track, 
on  the  right,  as 
you  pass  west- 
ward. There 
are  29  pits  or 
kilns  at  Hilli- 
a  r  d ,  nineteen 
small  ones,  and 
ten  large  ones. 
The  small  kilns 
require  twenty- 
six  cords  of 
wood  at  a  fill- 
ing, and  the 
large  ones  forty  cords.  The  small  ones  cost 
about  $750,  each ;  the  large  ones  f 900.  These 
kilns  consume  2,000  cords  of  wood  per  month, 
and  produce  100,000  bushels  of  charcoal  as  a  re- 
sult, in  the  same  time.  There  are  other  kilns 
about  nine  miles  south  of  the  town,  in  active  oper- 
ation. There  are  fine  iron  and  sulphur  springs 
within  three-fourths  of  a  mile  of  the  station. 
The  reddish  appearance  of  the  mountain  we 
have  just  passed  indicates  the  presence  of  iron 
in  this  vicinity  in  large  quantities,  and  coal  also 
begins  to  crop  out  in  different  places  as  we  go 
down  the  valley.  Bear  River  is  renowned  for 
its  trout.  They  are  caught  south  of  the  road  in 


ROCK  CUT,  NEAR  ASPEN. 


the  mountain  tributaries,  and  north  of  Evans- 
ton,  in  Bear  River  Lake.  Though  the  country 
has  somewhat  changed  in  appearance,  and  a  dif- 
ferent formation  has  been  entered  upon,  we  have 
not  passed  the  region  of  agates  and  gems, 
precious  and  otherwise.  They  are  found  in  the 
vicinity  of  Hilliard,  in  large  quantities,  together 
with  numerous  petrifactions  of  bones,  etc.,  with 
fossilized  fish,  shells,  ferns  and  other  materials. 

Twenty-five  miles  a  little  south-west  of  Hil- 
liard are  found  two  sulphur  mountains.  The 
sulphur  is  nearly  90  per  cent,  pure,  in  inex- 
haustible quan- 
tities. 

The  scenery  of 
the  Upper  Bear 
River  is  rugged 
and  grand. 
About  20  miles 
south  of  Hil- 
liard is  a  nat- 
ural fort  which 
was  taken  pos- 
session of  by  a 
gang  of  horse 
thieves  and  cut- 
throats, under 
the  lead  of  one 
Jack  Watkins, 
a  genuine  front- 
ier ruffian,  who, 
with  his  com- 
panions, for  a 
long  time  re- 
sisted  all  at 
tempts  at  cap- 
ture. 

The  hills  and 
mountains  in 
this  vicinity 
abound  in 
game,  and  offer 
rare  induce- 
ments to  sports- 
m  e  n .  The 
country  around 
both  Hilliard 
and  Evanston  is 
the  natural  home  for  bears,  elk,  deer,  catamounts, 
lynx,  wolves,  coyotes,  wolverines,  beaver,  mink, 
foxes,  badgers,  mountain  lions,  wild  cats,  jack 
rabbits,  etc.,  grouse  sage  hens,  quails  and  ducks 
in  the  spring  and  fall.  Not  far  north  of  Evans- 
ton,  on  Bear  River,  is  Bear  Lake,  ten  miles  in 
length,  and  from  five  to  eight  in  breadth.  The 
boundary  line  between  Idaho  and  Utah  passes 
directly  across  the  lake  from  east  to  west. 

Soda  Sprinffs.— Farther  north, at  the  Big  Bend 
of  Bear  River,  the  most  interesting  group  of  soda 
springs  known  on  the  Continent,  occupy  some 
six  square  miles.  To  those  graced  with  steam 
vents,  Fremont  gave  the  name  of  Steamboat 


108 


Springs,  from  the  noise  they  make  like  a  low- 
pressure  engine.  Near  by  is  a  spring  with  an 
orifice  brightly  stained  with  a  brilliant  yellow 
coating  of  oxide  of  iron,  from  which  the  water  is 
thrown  up  two  feet. 

Independence  Rock. — This  has  long  been 
a  noted  landmark,  for  travelers  on  the  old  over- 
land wagon  route.  Its  base  which  borders  the 
road  is  literally  covered  with  names  and  dates, 
some  of  them  even  before  Fremont's  expedition 
crossed  the  Continent — many  more  well  known. 

The  Sweetwater  River  flows  immediately 
along  the  southern  end  of  it,  and  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  stream  is  another  ridge  similar  to  it, 
continuing  from  the  south-west,  which  was  once 
connected  with  it.  It  is  a  huge  example  of  dis- 
integration ;  its  rounded  form  resembles  an 
oblong  hay-stack,  with  layers  of  rocks  lapping 
over  the  top  and  sides  of  the  mass.  Thin  layers 


another  conspicuous  landmark, — the  Twin  Peaks, 
which  really  are  but  one  high  peak  in  the  ridge, 
cleft  down  the  centre,  dividing  it  in  two,  nearly  to 
the  base. 

View  in  the  Uintah  Mountains. — The 
view  we  give  on  page  78,  is  taken  from  Photo- 
graph Ridge,  elevation,  10,829  feet,  —  by  the 
Hayden  Exploring  Expedition,  and  is  one  of  the 
grandest  and  most  perfect  mountain  views  in  the 
West.  The  traveler,  as  he  passes  rapidly 
through  Echo  and  Weber  Canons,  and  casually 
notices  the  chain  of  mountains  at  the  south,  can 
form  no  idea  of  their  beauty  and  grandeur. 
Professor  Hayden  says  of  this  view  "  In  the  fore- 
ground of  our  view  is  a  picturesque  group 
of  the  mountain  pines.  In  the  middle  dis- 
tance, glimmering  in  the  sunlight  like  a  silver 
thread,  is  Black's  Fork,  meandering  through 
grassy,  lawn-like  parks,  the  eye  following  it  up 


INDEPENDENCE   ROCK. 


have  been  broken  off  in  part,  and  huge  masses 
are  scattered  all  around  it.  On  some  portions  of 
the  sides  they  lap  down  to  the  ground,  with  so 
gentle  a  descent  that  one  can  walk  up  to  the  top 
without  difficulty.  The  rock  has  a  circum- 
ference of  1,550  yards.  The  north  end  is  193 
feet  in  height,  and  the  opposite  end,  167  feet, 
with  a  depression  in  the  center  of  75  feet. 

Devil's  Gate  on  the  Sweetwater. — Follow- 
ing up  the  valley  from  Independence  Rock,  and 
five  miles  north,  is  another  celebrated  natural 
curiosity.  The  Devil's  Gate,  a  canon  which  the 
Sweetwater  River  has  worn  through  the  Granite 
Ridge  cutting  it  at  right-angles.  The  walls  are 
vertical,  being  about  350  feet  high,  and  the  dis- 
tance through  is  about  300  yards.  The  current 
of  the  stream  through  the  gate  is  slow,  finding 
its  way  among  the  fallen  masses  of  rock,  with 
gentle,  easy  motion,  and  pleasant  murmur. 

Fifteen  miles  farther  above  the  Devil's  Gate,  is 


to  its  sources,  among  the  everlasting  snows  of 
the  summit  ridge.  The  peaks  or  cones  in  the 
distance,  are  most  distinctly  stratified  and  ap- 
parently horizontal  or  nearly  so,  with  their  sum- 
mits far  above  the  limits  of  perpetual  snow,  and 
from  1,500  to  2,000  feet  above  the  springs  that 
rise  from  the  streams  below." 

Gilbert's  Peak, — is  one  of  the  highest  peaks 
of  the  Uintah  Mountain  Range,  named  after 
General  Gilbert  of  the  U.  S.  A.  It  has  near  its 
summit  a  beautiful  lake  of  11,000  feet,  and 
above  this  rises  the  peak  abruptly  2,250  more. 
Total,  13,250  feet. 

Throughout  these  mountains  are  very  many 
lakes, — which  gather  among  the  rocks  bordered 
with  dense  growth  of  spruce  trees,  and  form  a 
characteristic  feature  of  the  scenery. 

Bear  Hirer  City. — After  leaving  Hilliard, 
the  road,  as  it  continues  down  the  valley  of  Sul 
phur  Creek,  passes  the  site  of  Bear  River  City,  a 


109 


once  famous  town,  but  which  now  has  not  a  sin- 
gle building  to  mark  where  it  once  stood ;  a  mile 
and  a  half  west  of  Hilliard  will  be  seen  the  head- 
boards of  the  graves  of  early-day  rioters.     The 
city  was  laid  out  in   1868,  and  for  a  time  there 
was  high  speculation  in  lots,  and  once  the  popula- 
tion reached  as   high   as   2,000    persons.     Fre- 
quent garrotings,  deaths  and  robberies,  led  to  the 
organization  of  a  vigilance  committee,  who  hung 
three  of  the  desperadoes.     An  active  fight  after- 
wards   ensued 
between     the 
cifcizsns     and 
the   mob,  who 
had  organized 
to  revenge  the 
death    of    one 
of   their  num- 
ber.    The  citi- 
zens were  well 
protected     b  y 
the  wall  of   a 
store,   and   by 
active  firing 
killed  16  of  the 
rioters,    with 
other  losses, 
never    known. 
From  that  day 
the  place  was 
dropped  by  the 
railroad,     and 
it     faded    en- 
tirely away. 

Jtfillis  —  is 
the  next  sta- 
tion, 947.5 
miles  from 
Omaha,  with 
an  elevation  of 
6,790  feet.  It 
is  an  unim- 
portant side 
track,  where 
trains  occa- 
sionally pass. 
Its  location  is 
about  a  mile 
and  a  half  be- 
low or  west  of 
the  site  of  Bear 
River  City. 

Leaving  Millis  the  road  soon  crosses  Bear  River 
over  a  low  trestle-work — an  opening  being  left 
in  the  embankment  for  the  passage  of  surplus 
water  in  time  of  freshets.  The  entire  valley 
here  has  been  known  to  be  covered  with  water 
in  the  spring. 

Evanston, — 957  miles  from  Omaha;  eleva- 
tion, 6,770  feet.  It  is  the  county-seat  of 
Uintah  County,  Wyoming  Territory,  and  the 
last  u>wn  going  west,  in  Wyoming.  It  con- 


tains about  1,500  people,  and  is  a  thriving 
business  place,  owing  to  proximity  of  the  coal 
mines,  its  lumber  interests  and  the  location  of 
the  division  roundhouse  of  twenty  stalls,  with 
car  and  machine-shops — giving  constant  employ- 
ment to  a  large  number  of  men.  The  town  is 
located  on  the  western  bank  of  Bear  River,  and 
has  abundant  water  power  that  might  be  utilized 
in  various  manufactories.  A  large  saw-mill,  run 
by  a  lumber  company,  gets  its  logs  from  the 

mountains  to- 
ward the  head 
of  the  stream. 
They  are  rolled 
into  the  river, 
and  floated 
down  to  the 
mill.  This 
place,  also,  has 
a  few  charcoal 
kilns— lumber, 
coal  and  char- 
coal, being  the 
principal  prod- 
u  c  t  s  of  the 
town.  Evans- 
ton  is  a  regu- 
lar dinner  sta- 
tion— trains 
from  the  east 
and  west  stop- 
ping thirty 
minutes  for 
dinner.  You 
will  dine  at  the 
"Mountain 
Trout  Hotel," 
a  well-kept 
house,  where 
everything  is 
scrupulously 
neat — the  food 
being  plainly, 
but  well  cook- 
ed. At  this 
house,  the  trav- 
eler -will  find 
regular  Chi- 
n  e  s  e  waiters, 
dressed  in  Chi- 
nese costume, 

THE  DEVIL'S  GATE  ON  THE  SWEETWATER.  '      quick,  p  O  1  i  t  6 

and  attentive,  and  you  can  here  gratify  your  cu- 
riosity by  seeing  and  talking  with  them.  Game 
and  trout  will  usually  be  found  on  the  tables,  in 
their  season.  The  proximity  of  this  eating-sta- 
tion, and  the  one  kept  at  Green  River,  to  the  great 
trout-fishing  regions  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
creates  an  expectation,  on  the  part  of  the  traveler, 
that  he  will  usually  find  the  speckled  beauties 
served  up  at  these  stations,  nor  is  he  often  dis- 
appointed, in  the  proper  season  of  the  year. 


no 


The  town  has  good  schools,  three  or  four 
churches  and  an  excellent  court-house.  A  good 
weekly  newspaper — "  The  Evanston  Age,"  is 
published  here.  Bear  River,  which  runs  through 
this  place,  rises  in  the  Uintah  Mountains,  on  the 
south,  and  runs  in  a  general  northerly  direction 
to  the  great  soda  springs  in  Idaho,  about  120 
miles  directly  north  of  Echo  City.  It  then  turns 
to  the  south-west  and  empties  into  Great  Salt 
Lake,  near  Corinne.  Its  valley  is  pretty  well 
settled  by  Mormons,  and  others,  all  the  way 
round  its  great  bend.  Near  the  location  of  these 
soda  springs,  and  at  the  northern  extremity  of 
Bear  River 
Mountains,  evi- 
dences of  vol- 
canic action  are 
everywhere  visi- 
ble, and  extinct 
craters  are  no 
uncommon 
thing. 

Evanston  i  s 
built  mostly  on 
the  left  side  of 
the  track,  as  you 
enter  the  town, 
the  valley  ris- 
ing into  the  hill 
behind  it.  This 
hill,  were  it  not 
for  the  hard 
winds  and  deep 
snows  of  winter, 
would  afford 
some  very  fine 
building  spots, 
and  for  summer 
residences  must 
b  e  delightful. 
In  winter,  how- 
ever, some  of 
the  little  houses 
that  skirt  the 
hill  on  the  west- 
ern borders  of 
the  place,  are 
literally  covered 


LAKE  LAL,  OR  MOORE'S  LAKK,  HEAD  OF  BEAR  RIVER. 


with  snow  which  drifts  over  the  hills  from 
the  south.  The  agricultural  prospects  of  the 
valley,  lower  down,  are  said  to  be  flattering 
— the  Mormon  farmers  producing  fine  crops. 
Near  Evanston  there  are  a  number  of  cattle 
ranches  where  hay  is  cut,  and  cattle  have  to  be 
fed  and  sheltered  during  the  winter.  There  have 
also  been  some  successful  experiments  in  raising 
potatoes,  cabbages,  turnips,  parsnips,  radishes,  let- 
tuce, onions  and  other  "  garden  truck,"  while  oats, 
barley  and  wheat  can  undoubtedly  be  raised  in 
favorable  seasons.  Notice  the  altitude  of  this 
place,  and  then  the  traveler  can  form  the  best 
opinion  as  to  whether  agriculture,  as  a  steady  busi- 


ness, can  be  made  successful.  Candor  compels 
us  further  to  say  that  frosts  may  happen  during 
every  one  of  the  summer  months. 

Sportinff. — Evauston,  however,  possesses  all 
the  attractions  which  delight  the  sportsman. 
The  mountains  to  the  north  and  south,  and  the 
high  hills  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  are  full  of 
game,  while  Bear  River  is  renowned  for  its  trout. 
The  streams  flowing  into  Bear  River,  on 
either  side,  both  north  and  south  of  the 
town,  are  full  of  trout,  and  afford  excellent 
sport  in  those  seasons  of  the  year  when  their 
catching  is  not  prohibited  by  law,  while 

Bear  Lake,  some 
sixty  miles 
north,  from  all 
that  we  could 
learn  about  it, 
is  the  chosen 
home  of  trout 
and  the  very 
paradise  of  fish- 
ermen. Sport- 
ing parties  can 
obtain  guides, 
outfits,  and 
accommodations 
at  Evanston, 
from  which 
place  they  can 
hunt,  fish,  visit 
the  Sulphur 
Mountains,  and 
search  for  fos- 
sils, etc.,  to  their 
heart's  content. 
It  is  one  of  the 
most  favorable 
points  on  the 
line  of  the  road 
for  recreation 
and  amusement, 
and  will,  event- 
ually, become  a 
noted  resort  for 
tourists. 

Chinamen  be- 
gin   to    thicken 


as  you  proceed  west.  At  Evanston  they  have 
quite  a  settlement,  the  shanties  and  buildings 
on  the  right  of  the  track  and  opposite  the  depot 
being  "  China  Town."  Here  they  have  their 
"  Joss  "house,  saloons  and  residences.  Ah  Say, 
their  head  man,  speaks  very  good  English,  has 
his  Chinese  wife  with  him,  and  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  inevitable  "  cue,"  dresses  and  appears 
HKC  the  Americans,  with  whom  he  has  now  lived 
for  about  fifteen  years. 

About  three  miles  from  Evanston,  on  the  east 
side  of  Bear  River,  is  Alma,  the  coal  miners' 
town.  Here  coal  mines  belonging  to  the  Cen- 
tral Pacific,  the  Union  Pacific,  and  to  S.  H. 


Ill 


Winsor  are  worked.  Mr.  Winsor  is  just  open- 
ing his  mine — which  is  nearest  to  Evanston — 
while  the  other  mines  have  been  worked  for 
some  time.  "  The  Rocky  Mountain  Coal  Com- 
pany," is  the  name  of  the  corporation  which 
supplies  the  Central  Pacific  with  coal.  In  1875, 
this  company  mined  98,897  tons,  or  9,890  cars 
of  coal.  They  have  three  mines  open.  In  one 
year,  not  long  since,  they  mined  about  150,000 
tons,  or  15,000  cars.  The  Union  Pacific  having 
other  mines  along  their  road  do  not,  of  course, 
mine  as  much  here  as  does  the  Rocky  Mountain 
Company. 

A  Mountain  on  fire. 

Do  not  be  startled  at  this  announcement,  yet 
this  is  a  genuine  fact ;  the  companies  operating 
these  mines,  have  been  put  to  immense  labor  and 
expense  to  keep  under  control  an  immense  fire  in 
their  coal  veins.  These  mines  took  fire  from 
spontaneous  combustion  in  this  way.  They 
perhaps  took  out  too  much  coal  in  the  first 
place,  that  is,  did  not  leave  pillars  enough 
to  support  the  overhanging  walls ;  what  is 
called  "  slack " — coal  that  has  crumbled  by 
action  of  air — was  also  allowed  to  accumulate 
in  the  mine.  The  vein  of  fire  clay  next 
above  the  vein  of  coal  fell  down  on  this  slack, 
and  caused  spontaneous  combustion  of  the 
coal  underneath  it.  A  fire  with  a  perpetual 
supply  of  fuel  is  rather  a  hard  thing  to  master, 
and  in  a  coal  mine  generally  awakens  no  small 
amount  of  anxiety.  In  fact,  it  is  very  danger- 
ous. As  soon  as  it  was  discovered,  and  its  loca- 
tion fixed,  the  company  immediately  began  to 
wall  around  it ;  they  ceased  all  operations  in  its 
immediate  vicinity,  and  with  rock,  lime  and 
sand,  made  their  air-tight  walls  along  "the 
slopes,"  between  "  the  rooms  "  and  across  "  the 
air  passages,"  until  the  outside  air  was  com- 
pletely shut  out,  and  the  fire  entirely  shut  in, 
and  awaited  further  developments.  Occasionally 
it  breaks  out  over  a  piece  of  this  wall,  and  then 
they  begin  farther  back  and  wall  again.  But 
the  fire  is  not  extinguished  and  probably  never 
will  be.  Water  will  not  quench  it,  its  action  on 
the  fire  clay  only  increases  the  difficulty.  Inside 
of  these  fire  walls,  pillar  after  pillar  of  the  coal 
left  standing  to  support  the  roof  has  been  con- 
sumed, and  the  earth  and  rocks  above  have 
fallen  into  the  cavity,  leaving  great  craters  on  the 
side  of  the  mountain,  and  the  rock-ribbed  pile 
itself  has  seamed  and  cracked  open  in  places  above 
the  burning  fires.  Air  has  thus  got  in  and  the 
rains  and  melting  snows  of  spring  run  into  these 
fissures  and  craters,  dissolving  the  fire  clay,  and 
thus  add  to  the  extent  of  the  burning  mass. 
But  everything  goes  on  around  the  mine  with- 
out excitement,  and  as  though  nothing  had  hap- 
pened. Watchmen  are  kept  on  duty  all  the  time, 
and  the  first  appearance  of  the  fire  near  the 
walls  is  detected  and  a  new  wall  built.  And 


thus  while  the  smouldering  fires  are  burning  up 
the  coal  in  one  part  of  the  mine,  men  are  taking 
it  out  unconcernedly  in  another  part,  to  supply 
the  locomotives  with  the  power  to  generate 
steam. 

How  long  the  fire  will  burn  no  one  can  tell. 
It  will  only  stop  when  the  fuel  upon  which 
it  feeds  is  exhausted,  and  this  can  only  be 
cut  off  by  mining  all  around  it,  taking  out 
the  full  thickness  of  the  vein — 26  feet — and 
thus  exhausting  the  supply.  It  will  then  cave 
in  and  the  rest  of  the  mine  can  be  saved. 
Coal  mining  has  its  dangers,  not  the  least 
of  which  are  "slack  and  waste"  which  result 
in  fires.  In  Mine  No.  1,  of  the  Rocky  Mount- 
ain Coal  Company,  the  fire  is  confined  in  a  space 
250  by  600  feet.  In  Mine  No.  2,  owned  by 
same  company,  it  is  confined  by  a  space  175  by 
1,100  feet. 

A  Valuable  Coal  Mine. — Leaving  Evans- 
ton,  in  about  two  miles  the  branch  to  Alma 
turns  off  to  the  right,  and  the  town  with 
hoisting  works  of  the  coal  companies  can 
be  plainly  seen,  together  with  a  beautiful  view 
down  the  Bear  River  Valley.  On  what  is  called 
Twin  Creek,  down  this  valley,  the  Wyoming  Coal 
&  Coke  Company,  have  discovered  and  located  a 
coal  mine  41  miles  due  north  from  Evanston. 
The  mine  is  on  the  east  side  of  Bear  River. 
This  company  has  what  it  claims  to  be  a  mount- 
ain of  coal.  The  veins  on  the  ground  level  are 
four  and  one-half  feet  thick,  above  it  there  are 
about  six  feet  of  slate  ;  then  a  ten  foot  vein  of 
coal ;  then  sandstone  about  five  feet  thick — 
what  miners  call  "  Winn  rock ; "  then  three 
feet  of  fire  clay ;  then  two  feet  of  coal ;  then  al- 
ternate layers  of  fire  clay  and  coal  26  feet ;  then 
125  feet  of  solid  fire  clay ;  then  sandstone,  lime- 
stone, etc.,  to  the  summit,  it  being  about  400 
feet  above  the  level  surface  around  it.  From 
the  statements  made  in  these  pages  it  will  be 
seen  that  the  immense  coal  measures  of  the 
Union  Pacific  Railway  supply  nearly  the  entire 
northern  half  of  the  great  trans-Missouri  region 
with  fuel.  The  "bonanza"  silver  mines  of 
Nevada,  the  gold  fields  of  California,  the  gold 
and  silver  belts  of  Colorado,  and  the  great 
wheat  lands  and  pastures  of  Wyoming  and 
Nebraska  all  in  the  end  pay  important  tribute 
to  these  never-ending  deposits  of  lignites. 

A  Mountain  of  Sulphur. — Forty  miles 
southeast  of  Evanston  is  a  perfect  mountain  of 
sulphur.  The  immense  deposit  carries  from  50 
to  90  per  cent,  of  pure  sulphur.  A  United  States 
patent  has  been  secured  on  the  property  by  a 
company  of  western  gentlemen.  Flowing  oil 
springs  have  also  been  discovered  ten  miles  east 
of  Evanston,  and  are  in  process  of  utilization. 
The  surface  oil  is  found  to  be  equal  to  the  best  of 
heavy  lubricating  oils  for  engines  or  locomotives. 

WahsatcJi — A  telegraph  station  on  the  divido 
between  Bear  River  Valley  and  Echo  Canon.  If 


ROCKS  NEAR  ECHO  CITY. 
1.— Bromley's  Cathedral.    2.— Castle  Rock.    3.— The  Great  Eastern.    4.— Hanging  Rock. 


113 


is  968  miles  from  Omaha,  and  reported  to  be 
6,879  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  road 
here  crosses  a  low  pass  in  the  Wahsatch  Range 
of  Mountains.  As  you  ascend  the  beautiful  val- 
ley leading  to  this  station,  the  grim  peaks  of  the 
Uintahs  tower  up  in  the  distance  on  your  left, 
while  the  adjoining  hills  shut  out  the  higher  ele- 
vations of  the  Wahsatch  Range,  on  the  north. 
Leaving  Evanston,  the  road  turns  abruptly  to 
the  left,  and  the  town  and  valley  are  soon  lost  to 
sight.  Four  miles  out,  on  the  left  side  of  the 
track,  the  traveler  will  notice  a  sign  put  up  on  a 
post — the  east  side  of  which  reads,  "  Wyoming," 
the  west  side,  "  Utah."  Wahsatch  was  formerly 
a  terminus  of  a  sub-division  of  the  road,  and 
contained  the  regular  dining-hall  of  the  company, 
with  roundhouse,  machine  and  repair  shops,  etc. 
The  water  in  the  tank  is  supplied  from  a  mount- 
ain spring  near  by,  and  a  "  Y "  for  turning 
engines,  and  a  small  house  to  shelter  one,  is 
about  all  that  is  left  of  a  once  famous  town. 

Artesian  Wells. — It  has  been  our  candid 
opinion  that  the  great  plains,  basins  and  alkali 
deserts  which  lie  between  the  Rocky  Mountains 
and  Sierras  can  all  be  reclaimed  and  soil  made 
fertile  by  the  sinking  of  artesian  wells.  The  en- 
tire Humboldt  Valley  can  be  made  productive 
by  this  means  alone.  As  a  proof  of  the  success 
of  sinking  artesian  wells,  we  can  mention 
several  along  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad.  Com- 
mencing at  Separation  and  terminating  at  Rock 
Springs,  a  distance  of  108  miles,  the  Union 
Pacific  Railroad  has  sunk  successfully  six  arte- 
sian wells : 

One  at  Separation,  6,900  feet  above  sea  level, 
is  1,180  feet  deep,  the  water  rising  to  within  10 
feet  of  the  surface. 

At  Creston,  7,030  feet  elevation,  the  well  is 
only  300  feet  deep,  furnishing  abundant  supply 
of  water  at  that  point. 

At  Washakie,  6,697  feet  elevation,  the  well  is  638 
feet  deep.  The  water  rises  15  feet  above  the  sur- 
face, and  flows  at  the  rate  of  800  gallons  per  hour. 

At  Bitter  Creek,  6,685  feet  elevation,  the  well 
is  696  feet  deep,  discharging  at  the  surface  1,000 
gallons  per  hour,  and  with  pumping,  yields  2,160 
gallons  per  hour. 

At  Point  of  Rocks,  elevation  6,490  feet,  the 
well  is  1,000  feet  deep,  and  the  supply  of  water 
abundant,  although  it  does  not  rise  to  the  sur- 
face nearer  than  17  feet. 

At  Rock  Springs,  at  an  elevation  of  6,280  feet, 
the  well  is  1,156  feet  deep,  and  discharges  at  the 
surface  960  gallons  per  hour,  or  at  26  feet  above 
the  surface,  571  gallons  per  hour. 

As  the  elevation  of  all  these  places  is  2,000  feet 
or  more  above  the  Salt  Lake  Valley,  and  also  the 
Humboldt  Valley,  there  is  every  probability  that 
the  sinking  of  artesian  wells  in  these  valleys 
would  result  in  an  immense  flow  of  water. 

Chinese  Workmen. — The  Chinese  are  em- 
phatically a  peculiar  people,  renowned  for  their 


industry  and  economy.  They  will  live  comfort- 
ably on  what  the  same  number  of  Americans 
would  throw  away.  Their  peculiarities  have 
been  so  often  described  that  a  repetition  of  them 
to  any  great  extent  is  not  needed  here.  Never- 
theless a  sight  of  them  always  awakens  a  curios- 
ity to  know  all  there  is  to  be  known  concerning 
their  customs,  habits,  social  and  moral  relations, 
etc.  A  great  deal  that  they  do  is  mysterious  to  us, 
but  perfectly  plain  and  simple  to  them.  In  thek 
habits  of  eating,  for  instance,  why  do  they  use 
"  chopsticks "  instead  of  forks  ?  "  Same  as 
'Melican  man's  fork  "  said  one  as  we  watched  its 
dextrous  use.  Their  principal  articles  of  diet 
seem  to  be  rice  and  pork.  They  reject  the  great 
American  fashion  of  frying  nearly  everything 
they  cook,  and  substitute  boiling  instead.  In 
the  center  of  a  table,  or  on  a  bench  near  by,  they 
place  a  pan  filled  with  boiled  rice.  To  this  each 
one  of  the  "  mess  "  will  go  and  fill  his  bowl  with 
a  spoon  or  ladle,  return  to  the  table  and  take  his 
"  chopsticks  " — two  slender  sticks,  about  the 
length  of  an  ordinary  table  knife,  and  operate 
them  with  his  fingers  as  if  they  were  fastened 
together  with  a  pivot,  like  shears,  lifting  the 
bowl  to  his  mouth  every  time  he  takes  up  the 
food  with  the  "  chopsticks."  The  pork  for  a 
"  mess  "  will  be  cut  into  small  pieces  and  placed 
in  one  dish  on  the  table  from  which  each  one 
helps  himself  with  these  "  chopsticks. "  In 
other  words  "  they  all  dive  into  one  dish  "  for 
their  pork.  They  are  called  "  almond-eyed 
celestials  " — but  did  you  ever  notice  how  much 
their  eyes  resemble  those  of  swine  ? 

The  gangs  of  Chinamen  you  meet  with 
are  inefficient  laborers,  although  industrious, 
especially  in  the  winter.  We  shall  see  more 
of  them  by  the  time  we  reach  the  Pacific 
Coast.  Rock  Springs  as  a  town  is  mostly 
composed  of  dug  outs,  shanties,  holes  in 
the  ground,  etc.,  occupied  by  miners,  in- 
cluding Chinamen,  together  with  a  few 
substantial  buildings,  such  as  the  com- 
pany's store,  a  good  school-house,  two  or 
three  ordinary  hotels,  and  the  customary 
saloons.  The  importance  of  the  town  is 
wholly  due  to  the  coal  trade,  otherwise  it 
would  be  nothing. 

ECHO  AND  WEBER  CANONS. 

And  now,  with  full  breath  and  anxious 
heart,  repressed  excitement  and  keen  zest, — 
we  anxiously  scan  the  scenes  from  car  win- 
dows or  platforms,  and  prepare  for  one  grand, 
rushing  descent  into  the  glories  of  Echo  Canon. 
The  writer  will  never  forget  the  feelings  of  over- 
whelming wonder  and  awe,  as  with  the  seal  of  ad- 
miration in  both  eye  and  lips,  the  ride  through  this 
famous  canon  was  enjoyed.  Rocks  beside  which 
all  eastern  scenes  were  pigmies,  rose  up  in  astound- 
ing abruptness  and  massiveness — colossal  old  Ti- 
tans of  majestic  dimensions,  and  sublimely  soar- 


114 


ing  summits,  and  perpendicular  sides, — succeeded 
•each  other  for  miles,  and  the  little  company  of 
spectators,  seemed  but  an  insignificant  portion  of 
the  handiwork  of  the  Almighty.  The  train  of 
<;ars,  which,  on  the  plain,  seemed  so  full  of  life, 
and  grand  in  power,  here  was  dwarfed  into 
baby  carriages ;  and  the  shriek  of  the  whistle,  as 
it  echoed  and  resounded  along  the  cliffs  and  from 
rock  to  rock,  or  was  hemmed  in  by  the  confines 
of  the  amphitheatre,  appeared  like  entering 
the  portals  to  the  palace  of  some  Terrible 
Being.  Into  the  short  distance  of  sixty  miles 
is  crowded  a  constant  succession  of  those 
scenes  and  objects  of  natural  curiosity,  which 
form  the  most  interesting  part  of  the  road, 
and  have  made  it  world-wide  in  fame.  It 
seems  hard,  after  nearly  a  week  of  expectation 
and  keen  anxiety  for  a  glimpse  of  such 
scenes  of  grandeur,  and  after  more  than  two 
days  of  steady  riding  over  the  smooth  surface  of 
the  rolling  upland  plain,  to  find  all  the  most 
magnificent  objects  of  interest  crowded  into  so 
short  a  space,  and  passed  in  less  than  three 
hours. 

Travelers  must  remember,  however,  that  the 
scenes  witnessed  from  the  railroad  are  but  a  very 
little  portion  of  the  whole.  To  gather  true  re- 
freshing glimpses  of  western  scenery,  the  tourist 
must  get  away  from  the  railroad,  into  the  little 
valleys,  ascend  the  bluffs  and  mountains,  and 
views  yet  more  glorious  will  greet  the  eye.  Echo 
Canon  is  the  most  impressive  scene  that  is  beheld 
for  over  1,500  miles,  on  the  overland  railroad. 
The  constant  succession  of  rocks — each  growing 
more  and  more  huge,  and  more  and  more  perpen- 
dicular and  colossal  in  form — make  the  attrac- 
tions of  the  valley  grow  upon  the  eye  instead  of 
decrease. 

The  observer  enters  the  canon  about  on  a  level 
with  the  top  of  the  rocks,  and  even  can  overlook 
them,  then  gradually  descends  until  at  the  very 
bottom  of  the  valley  the  track  is  so  close  to  the 
foot  of  the  rocks,  the  observer  has  to  elevate  his 
head  with  an  upward  look  of  nearly  90°,  to  scale 
their  summits.  Let  us  now  prepare  to  descend, 
and  brace  ourselves  eagerly  for  the  exhilaration 
of  the  ride,  the  scenery  of  which  will  live  with 
you  in  memory  for  years. 

Entering  Echo  Canon.  —  Leaving  Wah- 
satch  we  pass  rapidly  down  grade,  into  the 
canon,  and  we  will  point  out,  in  detail,  all 
objects  of  interest  as  they  are  passed,  so  that 
travelers  may  recognize  them.  From  Wahsatch, 
especially,  you  want  to  look  with  all  the  eyes  you 
have,  and  look  quick,  too,  as  one  object  passes 
quickly  out  of  sight  and  another  comes  into  view. 
About  a  mile  from  Wahsatch,  you  will  notice 
what  is  called  the  "  Z  "  canon  where  the  road 
formerly  zigzagged  down  a  small  canon,  on 
the  left,  and  passed  through  the  valley  of  the 
creek  to  near  Castle  Rock  Station,  where  it  united 
with  the  present  line.  Two  miles  farther  on, 


over  heavy  grades  and  short  curves,  you  enter 
tunnel  No.  2,  which  is  1,100  feet  long.  Pass- 
ing through  the  tunnel,  the  high  reddish  rocks, 
moulded  into  every  conceivable  shape,  and 
frequent  side  canons  cut  through  the  walls  on 
either  side  of  the  road.  You  reach  at  last 

Castle  Hock  Station, — about  eight  and  one- 
half  miles  from  Wahsatch,  976.4  miles  from 
Omaha  with  an  elevation  of  6,290  feet.  It  is  so 
called  from  the  rock  a  little  east  of  the  station 
which  bears  the  same  name.  Notice  the  arched 
doorway  on  one  corner  of  the  old  castle  just 
after  it  is  passed,  with  red  colored  side  pieces, 
and  capped  with  gray.  In  close  proximity  are 
some  needle  rocks — sharp-pointed — one  small  one 
especially  prominent.  Still  nearer  the  station  is 
a  shelving  rock  on  a  projecting  peak.  Opposite 
the  water  tank  are  rocks  worn  in  curious  shape. 
Further  on,  about  half  a  mile,  is  a  cave  with 
rocks  and  scattering  cedars  above  it.  Next 
comes  what  is  termed  "  Swallows'  Nest,"  be- 
cause of  the  numerous  holes  near  the  top, 
chiseled  out  by  the  action  of  both  water  and 
wind,  and  in  summer  sheltering  a  large  number 
of  swallows.  Toward  it  in  summer  months, 

"  The  Swallows  Homeward  fly." 

Then  comes  a  honey-combed  peak  with  a 
shelving  gray  rock  under  it,  after  which  we  pass 
through,  what  the  railroad  boys  call  "  gravel "  or 
"  wet  cut  " — the  sides  being  gravel,  and  springs 
breaking  out  in  the  bottom  by  the  track.  Then 
Phillip's  Canon  juts  in  from  the  right  with 
yards  for  cattle  at  its  mouth.  See  the  curious 
formations  along  the  side  of  this  canon  as  you 
pass  it.  About  four  miles  from  the  last  station, 
are  other  castle  rocks  similar  in  appearance  to 
those  already  passed,  and  rocks  with  caps  and 
slender  little  spires  like  needles.  Then  comes  a 
singular  perpendicular  column  jutting  out  in  front 
of  the  ledge,  with  outstretched  wings  as  if  it 
would  lift  itself  up  and  fly,  but  for  its  weight. 

This  is  called  the  "  Winged  Rock."  If  there 
was  a  projection  in  front  to  resemble  a 
neck  and  head,  the  rock  would  appear  very 
much  like  an  eagle  or  some  other  large  bird, 
with  pinions  extended  just  ready  to  fly.  A  little 
below  this,  are  the  "  Kettle  Rocks  "  huge  gray- 
looking  boulders,  nearly  to  the  top  of  the  ledge, 
looking  like  immense  caldron  kettles.  Behind 
them  are  some  sharp-pointed  projections  like 
spires.  These  rocks  are  capped  with  red,  but 
gray  underneath.  Then  comes  "  Hood  Rock " 
a  single  angular  rock  about  half  way  to  the  top 
of  the  ledge,  worn  out  in  the  center,  and  resem- 
bling the  three-cornered  hoods  on  modern  ulster 
overcoats.  About  a  mile  before  reaching  the 
next  station,  the  rocks  are  yellow  in  appearance 
and  rounding  a  point  you  will  notice  sandstone 
layers  with  a  dip  of  more  than  45  degrees,  show- 
ing a  mighty  upheaval  at  some  period  in  the  re- 
mote past. 


115 


Hanging  Rock, — a  little  over  seven  miles 
from  Castle  Rock,  and  983.7  miles  from  Omaha; 
elevation,  5,974  feet.  The  descent  has  been 
very  rapid  since  we  struck  this  canon.  This 
station  is  wrongly  named.  All  books  and  guides 
which  represent  the  rocks  of  Echo  Canon  over- 
hanging the  railroad,  are  erroneous.  Nothing  in 
the  shape  of  a  hanging  rock  can  be  seen, 
but  as  you  pass  the  station,  you  will  notice  how 
the  elements  have  worn  out  a  hollow  or  cavity 
in  one  place,  which  is  bridged  by  a  slim  gray 
rock,  nearly  horizontal  in  position,  forming  a 
natural  or  hanging  bridge  across  the  cavity, 
about  50  feet  in  depth.  It  can  be  seen  as  you 
pass  around  a  curve  just  after  leaving  the  sta- 
tion. Going  a  little  farther,  you  notice  what  is 
called  "  Jack-in-the-Pulpit-Rock,"  at  the  corner 
of  a  projecting  ledge,  and  near  the  top  there- 
of. A  round  gray  column,  flat  on  the  surface, 
stands  in  front ;  this  is  the  pulpit,  while 
in  close  proximity  rises  the  veritable  "  Jack " 
himself,  as  if  expounding  the  law  and  gospel  to 
his  scattering  auditors.  Then  comes  the 

North  Fork  of  Echo  Canon,— down 
which  more  water  annually  flows,  than  in  the 
main  canon.  Now  bending  around  a  curve,  if 
you  look  forward,  it  seems  as  though  the  train 
was  about  to  throw  us  directly  against  a  high 
precipice  in  front,  and  that  there  was  no  way  of 
escape ;  but  we  keep  onward  and  finally  pass 
safely  on  another  side.  We  now  approach  what 
are  called  "  the  narrows."  The  rocky  sides 
of  the  canon  seem  to  draw  together.  Notice 
the  frame  of  an  old  rickety  saw-mill  on  the 
left,  and  a  short  distance  below,  still  on  the 
left,  see  a  huge,  conical-shaped  rock  rising 
close  to  the  track.  We  are  particular  in  men- 
tioning these,  because  they  are  landmarks, 
and  will  enable  the  traveler  to  know  when 
he  is  near  the  ledge  on  the  right  of  the 
track,  upon  which  the  Mormons  piled  up 
stones  to  roll  down  on  Gen.  Albert  Sidney  John- 
son's army,  when  it  should  pass  here,  in  1857. 
The  canon  virtually  becomes  a  gorge  here,  and 
the  wagon  road  runs  close  to  the  base  of  the  high 
bluffs,  (it  could  not  be  made  in  any  other  place) 
— which  the  Mormons  fortified  after  a  fashion. 
Now  you  pass  these  forts  ;  high  up  on  the  top, 
on  the  outer  edge  or  rim  you  will  still  see  small 
piles  of  stones  which  they  gathered  there  for  of- 
fensive operations,  when  the  trains  and  soldiers 
of  the  army  went  by.  They  look  small — they 
are  so  far  off,  and  you  pass  them  so  quickly — 
not  larger  than  your  fist — but  nevertheless  they 
are  there.  They  are  best  seen  as  they  recede 
from  view. 

At  the  time  we  speak  of,  (1857)  there  was 
trouble  between  the  Mormons  and  the  United 
States  authorities,  which  led  to  the  sending  of 
an  army  to  Salt  Lake  City.  It  approached  as 
far  as  Fort  Bridger,  where  —  the  season  being 
late — it  went  into  winter  quarters.  It  was  ex- 


pected to  pass  through  this  canon,  however,  that 
same  fall,  and  hence  the  preparations  which  the 
Mormons  made  to  receive  it.  Their  army — the 
Nauvoo  Legion,  redivivus,  under  the  command  of 
Gen.  Daniel  H.  Wells,  had  its  camp  near  these 
rocks,  in  a  little  widening  of  the  valley  below, 
iust  beyond  where  you  pass  a  "  pocket "  of 
boulders,  or  detached  parts  of  the  ledges  above, 
which  have  sometime,  in  the  dim  past,  rolled 
into  the  valley.  The  rocky  fort  being  passed, 
with  the  pocket  of  boulders  and  the  site  of  the 
old  camp,  the  traveler  next  approaches  "  Steam- 
boat Rock,"  a  huge  red  projection  like  the  prow 
of  a  big  propeller.  A  little  cedar,  like  a  flag  of 
perpetual  green,  shows  its  head  on  the  bow, 
while  farther  back,  the  beginning  of  the  hurri- 
cane deck  is  visible.  It  slopes  off  to  the  rear, 
and  becomes  enveloped  in  the  rocky  mass 
around  it.  By  some,  this  is  called  "  The  Great 
Eastern,"  and  the  one  just  below  it,  if  anything, 
a  more  perfect  representation  of  a  steamer,  is 


SENTINEL  ROCK,  ECHO  CANON. 

called  "  The  Great  Republic."  They  are  really 
curious  formations,  and  wonderful  to  those  who 
look  upon  them  for  the  first  time.  "Monument 
Rock "  comes  next.  It  is  within  a  cove  and 
seems  withdrawn  from  the  front,  as  though  shun- 
ning the  gaze  of  the  passing  world,  yet  in  a  posi- 
tion to  observe  every  thing  that  goes  by.  If  the 
train  would  only  stop  and  give  you  more  time — 
but  this  cannot  be  done,  and  your  only  recourse 


,  ROCK  SCENES  NEAR  ECHO  CITY. 

l._WHph«8  Rocks.    2.— Battlement  Rocks.    3.— Egyptian  Tombs.    4.— Witches  Bottles.    5.— Needle  Rocks,  near  Wahsatch. 


117 


is  to  pause  at  Echo  and  let  it  pass,  while  you 
wait  for  the  one  following.  This  will  give  you 
ample  opportunity  to  see  the  natural  wonders 
congregated  in  this  vicinity.  We  have  almost 
reached  the  mouth  of  Echo  Creek,  and  the 
Weber  River  comes  in  from  the  left,  opposite 
" Bromley's  Cathedral"  in  front  of  which  stands 
"Pulpit  Rock"  on  the  most  extended  point  as 
you  turn  the  elbow  in  the  road.  This  "  Cathe- 
dral "  is  named  in  honor  of  J.  E.  Bromley,  Esq., 
who  has  lived  at 
Echo  since  1858, 
and  who  came 
here  as  a  divi- 
sion s  u  p  e  r  i  ii- 
te  ndent  of  Ben 
Holladay's 
O/erland  Stage 
and  Express 
Line.  It  extends 
some  distance 
—a  mile  or  more 
—  around  the 
bend  in  the 
mountain,  and 
h  st  s  numerous 
towers  and 
spires,  turrets 
and  domes,  on 
either  side. 
"Pulpit  Rock" 
is  so  called  from 
its  resemblance 
to  an  old-fash- 
ioned pulpit, 
and  rises  in 
plain  view  as 
you  go  round 
the  curve  into 
Weber  Valley. 
'It  is  a  tradition 
among  a  good 
many  people, 
that  the  "Proph- 
et of  the  Lord," 
who  now  pre- 
sides over  the 
church  of  "  The 
Latter  Day 
Saints,"  in  Salt 
Lake  City,  once 
preached  to  the 

assembled  multitude  from  this  exalted  emi- 
nence;  but,  while  we  dislike  to  spoil  a  story 
that  lends  such  a  charm  to  the  place,  and 
clothes  it  with  historic  interest,  nevertheless, 
such  is  not  the  fact.  The  oldest  and  most 
faithful  Mormons  we  could  find  in  Echo, 
know  nothing  of  any  such  transaction.  Our 
cut  is  a  faithful  representation  of  this  re- 
markable rock.  It  is  estimated  to  be  about  sixty 


know  how  high  the  ledges  are,  which  have  been 
so  rapidly  passed.  We  are  informed  that  Mr. 
S.  B.  Reed,  one  of  the  civil  engineers  who 
constructed  this  part  of  the  railroad,  stated  that 
the  average  height  of  all  the  rocks  of  Echo  canon, 
is  from  600  to  800  feet  above  the  railroad. 

As  you  approach  the  elbow  referred  to,  there 
is  an  opening  through  the  mountains  on  the  left, 
and  in  close  proximity  to  "Pulpit  Rock,"  the 
waters  of  Echo  Creek  unite  with  those  of  Weber 

River,  which 
here  come  in 
through  this 
opening.  If  not 
the  southern- 
most point  on 
the  line  of  the 
road,  it  is  next 
to  it.  You  have 
been  traveling 
in  a  south-west- 
e  r  1  y  direction 
since  leaving 
Evanston ;  you 
now  round  the 
elbo^v,  turn 
toward  the 
north-west,  and 
arrive  at 

Echo ,  —  a 
beautiful  spot — 
a  valley  nestled 
between  the 
hills,  with  evi- 
dences of  thrift 
on  every  hand. 
This  station  is 
nearly  nine  and 
a  half  miles 
from  Hanging 
Rock,  993  miles 
from  Omaha, 
and  5,315  feet 
above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  The 
town  and  the 
canon  are  right- 
ly named,  for 
the  report  of  a 
gun  or  pistol 
discharged  i  n 
this  canon  will 


feet  high — above  the  track.     You  will  desire  to 


PULPIT  ROCK,  ECHO  CANON— LOOKING  WESTWARD. 

bound  from  side  to  side,  in  continuous  echoes, 
until  it  finally  dies  away.  "  Bromley's  Cathe- 
dral "  rears  its  red-stained  columns  in  rear  of 
and  overshadowing  the  town,  while  opposite 
is  a  lofty  peak  of  the  Wahsatch  Range.  To 
the  right  the  valley  opens  out  for  a  short  dis- 
tance like  an  amphitheatre,  near  the  lower  ex- 
tremity of  which,  "The  Witches,"  a  group  of 
rocks,  lift  their  weird  and  grotesque  forms. 
They  are  about  half  way  to  the  summit  of  the 


118 


ledge  behind  them.  Weber  Valley,  from  its 
source  to  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  is  pretty  thickly 
settled  with  Mormons,  though  quite  a  number  of 
Gentiles  have  obtained  a  foothold  in  the  mines 
and  along  the  line  of  the  railroad. 

Upper  Weber  Valley. — From  this  station 
there  is  a  broad  gauge  railroad  up  the  Weber 
Valley  to  Park  City,  27  miles  in  length. 
The  town  has  two  or  three  stores,  hotels, 
saloons,  etc.,  and  a  school-house  is  to  be 
built  this  year.  Accommodations  for  fish- 
ing parties,  with  guides,  can  here  be  obtained. 
The  Echo  and 
Weber  Rivers, 
with  their  tribu- 
taries, abound 
in  trout,  while 
there  is  plenty 
of  game,  elk, 
deer,  bear,  etc., 
in  the  mounts 
ains.  Richard 
F.  Burton,  the 
African  explor- 
er, visited  this 
canon  and  Salt 
Lake  City  in 
1860,  and  wrote 
a  book  called 
"City  of.  the 
Saints,"  which 
was  published 
by  the  Harpers, 
in  1862.  He 
speaks  of  the 
wonders  of  this 
valley  as  fol- 
lows :  "Echo 
Kanyon  has  but 
one  fault ;  its 
sublimity  will 
make  all  simi- 
lar features 
look  tame." 

Weber  River 
rises  in  the 
Wahsatch 
Mountains, 
about 50  miles  in 
a  south-eastern  direction  from  Echo,  flows  nearly 
due  west  to  Kammas  City,  when  it  turns  to  the 
north-west  and  passes  in  that  general  direction 
into  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  not  far  from  Ogden.  Go- 
ing up  this  river  from  Echo,  Grass  Creek  flows  in 
about  two  and  a  half  miles  from  the  starting 
point.  This  creek  and  canon  runs  very  nearly 
parallel  to  Echo  Creek.  Very  important  and  ex- 
tensive coal  mines  have  been  discovered  from  two 
to  four  miles  up  this  canon.  It  is  not  as  wild  or 
rugged  in  its  formation  as  Echo  Canon.  The 
mines  are  soon  to  be  developed.  Two  and  a  half 
miles  above  the  mouth  of  Grass  Creek  is 


PULPIT  ROCK  AND  VALLEY.— LOOKING  SOUTHWARD. 


Coalville, — a  town  of  about  600  people,  with 
a  few  elegant  buildings,  among  which  are  the 
Mormon  bishop's  residence  and  a  fine  two-story 
brick  court-house,  which  stands  on  an  elevation 
near  the  town,  and  can  be  seen  for  a  long  dis- 
tance. The  town  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of 
Chalk  Creek  where  it  empties  into  Weber  River. 
This  creek  also  runs  nearly  parallel  with  Echo 
Canon,  and  rises  in  the  mountains  near  the  head 
of  the  Hilliard  Lumber  Company's  flume.  It  is 
called  Chalk  Creek  from  the  white  chalky  ap- 
pearance of  the  bluffs  along  its  banks.  Coalville 

is  a  Mormon 
village,  and  its 
inhabitants  are 
nearly  all  em- 
ployed in  min- 
ing coal  from 
two  to  three 
miles  above  the 
town  where  the 
railroad  ends. 
This  road  is 
called  the  Sum- 
mit County 
Railroad,  and  is 
owned  by  some 
of  the  wealthy 
Mormons  in. 
Salt  Lake  City. 
Four  miles  far- 
ther up  the 
Weber,  and  you 
come  to  Hoyts- 
ville,  another 
Mormon  village. 
It  is  a  farming 
settlement.  The 
town  has  a 
grist-mill.  Four 
miles  still  far- 
ther is  located 
the  town  of 
Wanship,  nam- 
ed after  an  old 
Ute  chief.  It 
has  about  400 
inhabitants, 
with  a  hotel, 
stores,  grist-mill,  saw-mill,  etc.  It  is  located  at 
the  junction  of  Silver  Creek  with  the  Weber. 
Still  going  up  the  Weber,  in  about  three  miles 
there  is  another  Mormon  settlement  called  Three 
Mile.  It  has  a  "co-op"  store,  bishop's  resi- 
dence, and  a  tithing  office. 

Feoa. — Leaving  Three  Mile,  and  pursuing 
the  course  still  up  one  of  the  most  beautiful  val- 
leys in  the  country,  the  tourist  will  reach  Peoa, 
a  nice  little  farming  town,  in  five  miles  travel. 
Evidences  of  thrift  and  of  the  successful  cultiva- 
tion of  the  soil,  are  visible  all  along  the  val- 
ley, but  it  is  a  wonderful  matter  to  eastern 


119 


SCENE  AT  MOUTH  OF  ECHO  CANON. 


men  who  know  nothing  of  the  characteris- 
tics  of  the  soil,  and  see  nothing  but  sage 
brush  and  greasewood  growing  thereon,  how 
crops  can  be  raised  amidst  such  sterility. 
Irrigation  has  done  it  all.  The  labor  to  accom- 
plish it  has  been  immense,  but  thirty-five  to 
forty  bushels  of  spring  wheat  to  the  acre  attest 
the  result.  The  soil  has  been  proved  to  be  very 
prolific. 


Katnmns  Of?/. — Next  on  this  mountain 
journey  comes  Kammas  City,  eight  miles 
beyond  Peoa,  on  Kammas  Prairie.  This  is 
an  elevated  plateau  about  four  miles  by  ten, 
and  affords  some  very  fine  grazing  lands 
and  meadows.  It  is  nearly  all  occupied  by 
stockmen.  Here  the  Weber  makes  a  grand  de- 
tour ;  coming  from  the  mountains  in  the  east,  it 
here  turns  almost  a  square  corner  toward  the 


120 


north,  and  then  pursues  its  way  through  valleys 
and  gorges,  through  hills  and  mountains  to  a 
quiet  rest  in  the  waters  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake. 
Above  this  prairie  the  river  cuts  its  way  through 
a  wild  rocky  canon,  lashing  its  sides  with  foam 
as  though  angry  at  its  confinement,  out  into  the 
prairie  where  it  seems  to  gather  strength  for  its 
next  fearful  plunge  in  the  rocky  gorges  below. 
In  the  lofty  peaks  of  the  mountains,  east  of 
Kanamas  Prairie,  in  the  frigid  realms  of  perpet- 
ual snow,  the  traveler  will  find  the  head  of  Weber 
River,  and  the  route  to  it  will  give  him  some  of 
the  grandest  views  to  be  found  on  the  American 
Continent. 

Farley's  Park.  —  The  old  stage  road  to 
the  "  City  of  the  Saints,"  after  leaving  Echo 
passed  up  the  Weber  to  Wanship,  at  the 
mouth  of  Silver  Creek ;  thence  nine  miles 
to  Parley's  Park,  a  lovely  place  in  summer, 
where  a  week  or  two  could  be  whiled  away 
in  the  beauty  of  the  valley  and  amidst  the 
grandeur  of  the  mountains.  There  are  three 
things  in  nature  which  make  a  man  feel  small — 
as  though  he  stood  in  the  presence  of  Divinity. 
These  are  the  ocean,  with  its  ceaseless  roar  ;  the 
mighty  plains  in  their  solitude,  and  with  their 
sense  of  loneliness  ;  and  the  mountains  in  their 
towering  greatness,  with  heads  almost  beyond 
the  ken  of  mortal  vision,  and  crowned  with 
eternal  snows.  Parley's  Park  is  nearly  round  in 
shape,  about  four  miles  in  diameter,  and  almost 
surrounded  by  the  rocky  domes  of  the  AVahsatch 
Range.  The  old  stage  road  leaves  Park  City  to 
the  left,  and  reaches  the  summit  on  the  west  side 
of  the  divide;  thence,  it  follows  down  Parley's 
Canon  to  Salt  Lake  City,  forty-eight  miles,  by 
this  route,  from  Echo.  The  mountain  streams 
along  this  road  abound  in  trout,  while  elk,  deer 
and  bear,  will  reward  the  hunter's  toil.  There 
are  ranches  an  I  small  farms  by  the  way,  which 
will  afford  abundant  stopping  places  for  rest  and 
food ;  there  are  mines  of  marvelous  richness,  to 
reward  one's  curiosity,  if  nothing  else  will  do  it ; 
and,  in  fact,  there  is  probably  nothing  which  can 
be  gained  along  the  line  of  the  Union  Pacific, 
which  will  afford  so  much  gratification,  at  so  lit- 
tle expense,  of  either  money  or  time,,  as  a  lei- 
surely jaunt  of  a  week  or  two  up  the  river  and 
its  tributaries  from  Echo. 

Characteristics  of  Echo  and  Weber 
Canons. — The  massive  rocks  which  form  Echo 
Canon,  are  of  red  sandstone,  which  by  the  steady 

Erocess  of  original  erosion  and  subsequent  weather, 
ave    worn    into    their   present   shape.      Their 
shapes  are  exceedingly  curious,  and  their  aver- 
age height,  500  to  800  feet.     At  the  amphithe- 
atre, and   the    Steamboat   Rock,  the  height  is 
fully  800  feet  to  the  summit.     There  is  a  bold 
projection  in  the  wall  of  rock  near  the  Pulpit, 
called  Hanging  Rock ;  but  it  is  composed  of  a 
mass  of  coarse  conglomerate,  which   is   easily 
washed   away,  and   is   not  very  easily  noticed. 


Pulpit  Rock  overlooks  Echo  City  and  the  val- 
ley of  the  Weber,  through  which  flows  a  pure 
beautiful  mountain  stream.  In  one  of  our 
illustrations  is  shown  a  railroad  train  passing 
through  this  valley  and  descending  to  the  en- 
trance of  Weber  Canon  just  below.  This  is  the 
sketch  of  the  special  excursion  train  of  the  New 
York  and  Eastern  Editorial  Excursion  Party 
of  1875,  who,  at  this  part,  the  center  of  the  val- 
ley, midway  between  the  two  canons,  were  pro- 
fuse in  their  exclamations  of  delight  at  the 
scene  of  beauty. 

A  curious  feature  of  Echo  Canon  is  that  its 
scenery  is  entirely  on  the  right  or  north  side, 
and  that  the  Weber  Canon  has,  also,  upon  the 


MONUMENT  KOCK.— ECHO  CANON. 


same  side,  its  wildest  and  most  characteristic 
scenery.  The  entrance  and  departure  from 
each  canon  is  distinguished  with  great  abrupt- 
ness and  distinctness.  Travelers  who  can  enjoy 
the  fortunate  position  of  the  lowest  step  on  the 
platform  of  each  car,  can  witness  all  the  scenes 
of  Echo  and  Weber  Canons,  to  the  best  advan- 
tage. The  view  is  particularly  fine, — as  when 
the  train  describes  the  sharp  turn,  under  and 
around  Pulpit  Rock,  the  view  from  the  last  plat- 
form includes  the  whole  length  of  the  train  on 
the  curve, — and  overhead  the  jutting  point  of 
the  rock,  and,  farther  above,  the  massive  Rock 
Mountain,  the  overlook  to  the  entire  valley.  Just 
as  the  train  rounds  at  Pulpit  Rock,  passengers 


121 


THE  CLIFFS  OF  ECHO  CANON,  UTAH. 

BY  THOMAS  MORAN. 


122 


on  the  south  side  of  the  train,  will  have  a  pretty 
little  glimpse  of  the  upper  portion  of  Weber 
River,  with  its  green  banks  and  tree  verdure — a 
charming  relief  to  the  bare,  dry  plains,  so  con- 
stant and  even  tiresome.  A  curious  feature  of 
this  little  Weber  Valley,  are  the  terraces.  Near 
Echo  City  is  a  low,  narrow  bottom,  near  the 
river ;  then  an  abrupt  ascent  of  30  feet ;  then  a 
level  plain  or  bottom  of  200  to  400  yards ;  then 
a  gentle  ascent  to  the  rock  bluffs. 

The  Weber  River  is  exceedingly  crooked  in 
its  course, — originally  occupying  the  entire  width 
of  the  little  space  in  the  canon — and  in  construct- 
ing the  railroad  at  various  points,  the  road-bed 
here  has  been  built  directly  into  the  river,  to 
make  room  for  the  track.  The  average  angle  of 
elevation  of  the  heights  of  Weber  Canon  is  70 
to  80  degrees, — and  the  height  of  the  summits 
above  the  river  is  1,500  to  2,000  feet.  In  this 
canon  is  found  a  thick  bed  of  hard,  red 
sandstone,  of  great  value  for  building  stone, — 
which  can  be  wrought  into  fine  forms  for  culverts, 
fronts  of  buildings,  caps,  sills,  etc.  Emerging 
from  the  mouth  of  Weber  Canon — and  turning 
to  the  right,  every  vestige  of  rugged  canon 
scenery  vanishes,  and  the  scene  is  changed 
into  one  of  peace  and  quietness  of  valley  life. 
Here  the  Weber  River  has  a  strong,  powerful 
current — with  heavy  and  constant  fall  over  beds 
of  water-worn  stones,  and  fallen  rocks  of  im- 
mense size.  In  the  spring  and  summer  months, 
it  is  swollen  by  the  melting  of  snow  from  the 
mountains,  and  is  of  great  depth, — though  usually 
it  averages  but  four  to  six  feet  in  depth  and  its 
width,  at  the  mouth  of  the  canon,  is  usually 
120  feet. 

The  remainder  of  its  course  to  the  Great  Salt 
Lake,  is  through  a  large  open  bottom  of  increas- 
ing breadth,  along  which  gather  little  villages, 
grain  fields,  meadows,  brilliant  with  flowers  of 
which  the  Indian  Pink,  with  its  deep  scarlet 
clusters,  is  most  luxuriant.  The  hills  are  smooth 
in  outline,  and  as  we  approach  Ogden,  the  grand 
summit  of  the  Wahsatch  Mountains,  with  snowy 
peaks,  arise  behind,  in  front,  and  northward, 
around  us  bold  and  impressive.  This  is  the  range 
of  mountains  which  border  the  east  side  of  the 
Salt  Lake  Valley,  and  will  accompany  us,  as  we 
go  southward  to  Salt  Lake  City. 

Rocks  of  Weber  Canon. — Returning  to 
the  road ;  after  leaving  Echo  you  will  soon 
notice,  on  the  north  side  of  the  track,  two 
curious  formations.  The  first  is  a  group  of 
reddish-colored  cones  of  different  sizes  and 
varying  some,  in  shape,  but  on  the  whole 
remarkably  uniform  in  their  appearance. 
These  are  known  as  Battlement  Rocks.  They 
are  about  one  mile,  perhaps  not  that,  be- 
low Echo.  Next  come  the  wierd  forms  of  "  The 
Witches  " — looking  as  though  they  were  talking 
with  each  other.  These  are  gray,  and  about 
this  place  it  seems  that  the  formation  changes — 


the  red-colored  rocks  disappearing — dark  gray 
taking  their  place.  How  these  columns  were 
formed  will  ever  be  a  question  of  interest  to 
those  who  are  permitted  to  see  them.  One  of 
the  Witches  especially  looks  as  though  she  was 
afflicted  with  the  "  Grecian  bend ''  of  modern 
fashion,  a  fact  which  does  not  at  all  comport 
with  the  dignity  or  character  of  a  witch.  Worn 
in  fantastic  shapes  by  the  storms  of  ages,  and 
capped  with  gray,  they  stand  as  if  "  mocking  the 
changes  and  the  chance  of  time."  Four 
miles  below  Echo,  we  round  a  rocky  point, 
nearly  opposite  to  which  lies  the  little  Mormon 
Village  of  Henniferville,  on  the  left  side  of 
Weber  River,  with  its  bishop's  palace — the  largest 
brick  building  in  sight — and  school-house,  also  of 
brick,  nestled  under  the  mountains  which  lift 
up  rugged  peaks  in  the  background.  The  valley 
now  narrows  to  a  gorge,  and  we  approach  Weber 
Canon  proper.  It  has  high  bluffs  on  the  left, 
with  a  rocky  castle  towering  up  on  the  right.  If 
Echo  Canon  was  a  wonderful  place  in  the  mind 
of  the  traveler,  wonders,  if  possible  more  rugged 
and  grand,  will  be  revealed  to  his  gaze  here. 
High  up  on  the  face  of  a  bluff  to  the  left,  as  you 
pass  through  the  gorge,  see  the  little  holes  or 
caves  worn  by  the  winds,  in  which  the  eagles  build 
their  nests.  This  bluff  is  called  '•'•Eagle  nest 
Rock."  Every  year  the  proud  monarch  of  the 
air  finds  here  a  safe  habitation  in  which  to  raise 
his  young.  It  is  beyond  the  reach  of  men,  and 
accessible  only  to  the  birds  which  fly  in  the  air. 
Passing  this  home  of  "  Freedom's  Bird,"  before 
we  have  time  to  read  these  lines  hardly,  we  are 
at  the 

Thousand  Mile  Tree,  Devil's  Slide,  <£•<%, 
— on  the  left  side  of  the  track.  There  it  stands, 
spreading  its  arms  of  green,  from  one  of  which 
hangs  the  sign  which  marks  the  distance  traveled 
since  leaving  Omaha.  It  is  passed  in  a  moment, 
and  other  objects  of  interest  claim  your  attention. 
High  upon  rocks  to  the  right,  as  you  peer  ahead, 
see  how  the  winds  have  made  holes  in  project- 
ing points  through  which  the  light  and  sky  be- 
yond can  be  observed;  now  looking  back  see 
another  similar  formation  on  the  opposite  side — 
one  to  be  seen  looking  ahead,  the  other  looking 
back.  Now  we  come  to  Slate  Cut — where  photo- 
graph rocks  without  number  are  found.  The 
rocks  are  so  called  from  the  pictures  of  ferns, 
branches  of  trees,  shrubs,  etc.,  which  are  seen 
traced  in  them.  They  remind  one  of  moss- 
agates,  only  they  are  a  great  deal  larger — mag- 
nified a  thousand  times,  and  are  not  in  clear 
groundwork  like  the  agates.  Lost  Creek  Canon 
now  puts  in  from  the  right,  and  around  the 
curve  you  can  see  the  houses  of  the  little  Mormon 
Town,  Croyden.  It  is  only  seven  miles  from 
Echo.  This  canon  runs  parallel  with  Echo 
Canon  for  quite  a  distance,  and  is  said  to  be 
rich  in  the  scenery  characteristic  of  this  region, 
with  a  narrow  valley  of  great  fertility  when  cul- 


123 


tivated.  But  right  here  on  the  left  side  of  the 
road,  pushing  out  from  the  side  of  the 
mountain,  is  the  "  Devil's  Slide " — one  of  the 
mosi  singular  formations  to  be  seen  on  the  en- 
tire rcute  from  ocean  to  ocean.  It  is  composed 
of  two  parallel  ledges  of  granite,  turned  upon 
then,-  edges,  serrated  and  jutting  out  in  places 
fifty  feet  from  the  mountain  side,  and  about  14 
feet  apart.  It  is  a  rough  place  for  any  one; 
height  about  800  feet. 

W  'eber  Quarry, — 1,001.5  miles  from  Omaha, 
and  5,250  feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  a  side  track 
where  fine  reddish  sandstone  is  obtained  for 
building  purposes,  and  for  the  use  of  the  road. 
The  sandstone  is  variegated,  and  is  both  beauti- 
ful and  durable  when  cut,  or  polished.  The 
gorge  still  continues,  and  devils'  slides  on  a 
smallor  scale 
than  the  one 
noticc-d,  are 
visible  on 
both  sides  of 
the  road.  A 
little  below 
this  station, 
Dry  Creek 
Canon  comes 
in  on  the 
right.  The 
road  now 
passes  round 
short  curves 
amidst  the 
wildest  scen- 
ery, when  jt  is 
suddenly 
blocked  to  all 
human  ap- 
pearance ;  yet 
tunnel  No.  3 
gives  us  liber- 
ty. Crossing 
a  bridge  ob- 
serve the  ter- 
raced mountain  on  the  right,  and  by  the  time 
it  is  well  in  view,  we  enter  and  pass  through 
tunnel  No.  4,  after  which  comes  Round  Valley, 
where  a  huge  basin  in  the  mountains  is  formed, 
and  where  man  again  obtains  a  foothold.  On 
the  right  of  the  mountain,  as  you  enter  this  val- 
ley, there  is  a  group  of  balanced  rocks,  that  seem 
ready  to  topple  over  into  the  valley  below.  Still 
rounding  another  point  farther  down,  and  we 
arrive  at 

Weber, — 1,008.5  miles  from  Omaha,  an  ele- 
vation of  5,130  feet.  It  is  a  telegraph  station  in 
a  thrifty  looking  Mormon  village.  The  valley 
here  widens  out — the  narrows  are  passed — and 
scenes  of  surpassing  beauty,  especially  in  the 
summer,  enchant  the  eye.  To  the  left  the 
mountains  gradually  recede,  and  East  Canon 
Creek,  which  takes  its  rise  in  Parley's  Park,  be- 


THOUSAND   MILE  TREE.— WEBER   CANOX. 


fore  mentioned,  cutting  its  way  through  the 
rocky  hills,  comes  into  the  valley  of  the  Weber. 
This  station  is  the  nearest  point  on  the  Union 
Pacific  Road  to  Salt  Lake  City.  The  town  and 
cultivated  farms  in  the  valley  seem  like  an  oasis 
in  the  midst  of  a  desert.  Here,  for  the  first  time 
on  the  road,  the  traveler  will  see  the  magic  sign, 
"  Z.  C.  M.  I.,"  which,  literally  translated,  means 
"  Zion's  Co-operative  Mercantile  Institution," 
where  all  the  faithful  are  expected  to  purchase 
their  dry  goods,  groceries,  notions,  etc.-  The 
Mormon  name  for  this  station  is  Morgan  City- 
As  you  leave  this  station,  the  same  queiy 
broached  before,  rises  in  the  mind  of  the  trav- 
eler— how  are  we  to  get  out  ?  We  seem  entirely 
surrounded  by  hills  and  mountains,  and,  while 
there  is  a  depression  visible  off  to  the  right,  it 

does  not  seem 
low  enough 
for  a  railroad 
to  pass  over. 
But  we  follow 
the  river 
down,  and 
notice  the  re- 
sult. Bend- 
ing first  to 
the  right,  then 
to  the  left, 
and  again  to- 
the  right 
round  a  curve 
like  an  el- 
bow, and  neai*- 
ly  as  short, 
we  reach 

Peterson, 
-1,016.4  miles 
from  Omaha; 
elevation, 
4,963  feet  — 
another  tele- 
graph station, 
near  which 
a  wagon  bridge  crosses  the  river  on  the  left. 
It  is  convenient  to  a  Mormon  village  called 
Enterprise,  near  by,  and  within  a  few  miles 
of  another,  called  Mountain  Green.  Just  be- 
low Peterson,  Cottomvood  Creek  puts  in  from 
the  right,  while  immediately  in  front,  Devil's 
Gate  Mountain  rears  its  snowy  crest.  You  now 
begin  to  see  where  we  are  to  get  out  of  the 
basin.  A  huge  gap  in  the  mountains  opens  be- 
fore you.  It  is  the  Devil's  Gap  with  the  Devil's 
Gate  and  several  other  odd  characteristics  about 
it.  It  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  places  on 
the  line  of  the  road.  The  waters  of  Weber 
River,  as  if  enraged  at  their  attempted  restraint, 
rush  wildly  along,  now  on  one  side  of  the  road, 
and  now  on  the  other,  and  now  headed  off  com- 
pletely by  a  projecting  ledge  before  them,  turn 
madly  to  the  right,  determined  with  irresistible 


124 


strength  to  force  their  way  through  the  mount- 
ain ;  foiled  in  this,  they  turn  abruptly  to  the 
left,  still  rushing  madly  on,  and  at  last  find 
their  way  out  to  the  plain  beyond.  If  Echo 
was  grand,  and  the  narrows  grander — this  Dev- 
il's Gate  pass  is  surely  grandest  of  all.  Just 
before  you  enter  the  deep  cut,  you  will  notice 
the  old  wagon  road  winding  along  the  bed  of 
the  stream,  cut  out  of  the  mountain's  side 
in  some  places,  and,  in  others,  walled  up 
from  the  river.  In  the  midst  of  all  this  majes- 
tic grandeur,  the  train  passes,  but  seldom  stops 
at  a  station  appropriately  named 
Devil's  Gate, 
—1,020.4  miles 
from  Omaha, 
and  4,870  feet 
above  the  sea, 
—  and  so  we 
pass  rapidly  on. 
The  gap  begins 
to  open  in  the 
west,  and  we 
soon  emerge 
from  one  of  the 
grandest  scenes 
in  nature,  into 
the  lovely  val- 
ley below,  re- 
claimed by  the 
hands  of  men 
from  the  barren 
waste  of  a  des- 
ert, and  made 
to  bud  and 
blossom  as  the 
rose.  We  have 
now  passed  the 
Wa  hs  atch 
Range  of  mount- 
ains, though 
their  towering 
peaks  are  on  the 
right,  and  re- 
cede from  view 
on  the  left,  as 
we  leave  their 
base  and  get  DEVIL'S  SLIDE, 

out  into  the  plain.  We  are  now  in  the  Great  Salt 
Lake  Basin,  or  Valley ;  and,  though  the  lake  itself 
is  not  in  sight,  the  mountains  on  its  islands  are. 
These  mountains,  back  of  Ogden,  are  almost 
always  crowned  with  snow,  and  frequently  have 
their  summits  enveloped  in  clouds.  They  are 
storm-breeders — every  one,  and  the  old  Storm 
King  sometimes  holds  high  carnival  among  them, 
when 

"  From  peak  to  peak,  the  rattling  crags  among, 
Leaps  the  live  thunder." 

The  winds  and  storms  of  winter  occasionally 
fill  the  craggy  gap  through  which  we  have  passed 
with  snow,  to  such  an  extent  that  it  slides  like 


an  avalanche  down  over  the  track,  and  in  the 
river  below,  where  the  rushing  waters  give  it  a 
cordial  greeting,  and  where  it  soon  melts  in  their 
embrace. 

Uinffih,— 1,025.3  miles  from  Omaha;  eleva- 
tion, 4,560  feet.  This  was  formerly  the  stage 
station  for  Salt  Lake  City,  but  the  completion  of 
the  Utah  Central  Railroad  from  Ogden,  took 
away  its  glory.  While  it  was  the  stage  terminus 
it  was  a  lively  place,  though  it  never  possessed 
indications  of  being  a  town  of  any  great  size. 
Approaching  the  town,  the  valley  opens  out  like 
a  panorama,  and  neat  little  houses  with  farms 

and  gardens  afc- 
tached,  greet  the 
eyes  of  the  trav- 
eler in  a  won- 
derful change 
from  the  scenes 
through  which 
he  has  just 
passed.  Look- 
ing off  to  the 
left  you  will  no- 
tice the  first 
bench  of  land 
across  the  river, 
with  .a  higher 
bench  or  terrace 
in  the  rear. 
Upon  this  first 
bench,  the  Mor- 
risite  massacre 
took  place  in 
1862,  an  account 
of  which  we 
shall  give  in  an- 
other place. 
Leaving  Uintah, 
the  road  pursues 
its  way  in  a 
general  norther- 
ly direction 
along  the  base  of 
the  mountains, 
till  it  arrives  at 
Of/f/ew, — the 
western  termi- 
nus of  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad,  1,033.8  miles 
from  Omaha,  and  4,340  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  By  agreement  between  the  two  roads, 
it  is  also  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  Central 
Pacific  Railroad.  The  place  is  one  of  con- 
siderable importance,  being  the  second  city  in 
size  and  population  in  the  Territory  of  Utah. 
It  is  regularly  laid  .out,  is  the  county-seat  of 
Weber  County,  has  a  court-house  of  brick, 
which,  with  grounds,  cost  about  $20,000,  two 
or  three  churches  and  a  Mormon  tabernacle. 
The  town  may  properly  be  divided  into  two 
parts  —  upper  and  lower  Ogden.  The  upper 
part  is  pleasantly  situated  on  an  elevated 


— WEBER  CANON. 


SCENES   IN  WEBER  CANON. 

1.— Ogden,  Utah.    Wahsatch  Mountains  in  the  distance.    2.— Devil's  Gate  and  High  Peaks  of  Wahsatch  Mountains. 
3.— Heights  of  Weber  Canon.    4.— Tunnel  No.  3,  Weber  Canon. 


126 


bench  adjoining  the  mountains.  This  bench 
breaks  rather  abruptly,  and  almost  forms  a  bluff, 
and  then  begins  lower  Ogden.  The  upper  part 
is  mostly  occupied  for  residences,  and  has  some 
beautiful  yards  with  trees  now  well  grown.  The 
lower  portion — that  which  is  principally  seen 
from  the  railroad,  is  mostly  occupied  by  business 
houses.  One  peculiarity  of  the  towns  in  these 
western  or  central  Territories,  is  the  running 
streams  of  water  on  each  side  of  nearly  every 
street,  which  are  fed  by  some  mountain  stream, 
and  from  which  water  is  taken  to  irrigate  the 
yards,  gardens  and  orchards  adjoining  the  dwell- 
ings. Ogden  now  has  fully  6,000  people,  and  has 
a  bright  future  before  it.  It  is  not  only  the  ter- 
minus of  the  two  great  trans-continental  lines 
before  mentioned,  but  is  also  the  starting-point 
of  the  Utah  Central  and  Utah  and  Northern 
Branch  of  the  Union  Pacific  Hallway.  These 
three  companies  have  united  in  the  purchase 
of  grounds,  on  which  a  large  Union  depot 
•will  soon  be  built,  nearly  east  of  the  present 
building,  and  nearer  the  business  portion 
of  the  city.  It  is  the  regular  supper  and 
breakfast  station  of  the  Union  Pacific  and 
Central  Pacific  Railroads — passengers  having 
one  hour  in  which  to  take  their  meals  and 
transfer  their  baggage.  The  Central  Pacific 
Road  has  numerous  machine  and  repair 
shops  here.  In  addition  to  their  freight  de- 
pots, the  Union  Pacific  has  only  a  roundhouse 
for  the  shelter  of  engines — their  buildings  for 
the  sub-division  of  the  road  being  located  at 
Evanston. 

Ogden  is  the  last  town  on  the  Weber  River 
before  it  empties  into  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  This 
river  takes  its  name  from  an  olJ  mountaineer 
and  trapper,  who  was  well  known  in  these  parts 
during  the  early  days  of  the  Mormon  settlement. 
The  town  is  named  for  Mr.  Ogden,  another  old 
mountaineer  who  lived  and  died  near  or  in  the  city. 
Ogden  is  destined  to  become  a  manufacturing 
town  of  no  small  importance.  Vast  quantities 
of  iron  ore  can  be  obtained  within  five  miles  of 
the  city,  and  iron  works  on  a  large  scale  have 
been  commenced,  but  owing  to  want  of  proper 
foresight,  the  company  ran  short  of  means  before 
their  works  were  completed.  An  effort  is  now 
being  made  to  resuscitate  them,  and  with  addi- 
tional capital  carry  them  on  to  completion.  The 
freight  on  all  iron  brought  into  the  Territory  is 
so  large  in  amount,  that  an  iron  manufactory 
here,  with  coal  and  iron  ore  bearing  60  per  cent. 
of  pure  iron  of  an  excellent  quality,  near  by,  will 
prove  a  paying  investment  and  materially  facil- 
itate the  development  of  the  Territory.  Discov- 
eries of  silver  have  also  been  made  on  the  mount- 
ains backs  of  the  city,  and  the  mines  are  rap- 
idly improving  with,  development.  These  dis- 
coveries have  been  made  up  in  Ogden  Canon, 
about  five  miles  from  the  city. 

On  the  mountain  directly  east  of  the  town,  ex- 


cellent slate  quarries  have  been  discovered  and 
worked  to  some  extent.  It  is  said  to  be  equal  to 
the  best  found  in  the  Eastern  States. 

Ogden  River  rises  in  the  Wahsatch  Range 
of  Mountains,  some  40  miles  east  of  the  city.  It 
has  three  forks — north,  middle  and  south — all  of 
which  unite  just  above  the  canon  and  fairly  cut 
their  way  through  one  of  the  wildest  and  most 
romantic  gorges  on  the  Continent. 

Ogden  Canon. — This  lovely  little  canon  con- 
tains views  quite  as  pretty  as  either  Weber  or 
Echo  Canons.  Visitors  should  stay  over  at  Og- 
den and  spend  a  day  in  a  drive  hither. 

A  fine  creek,  about  30  feet  wide,  and  three  to 
five  feet  deep,  has  cut  through  the  mountain  and 
its  ridges.  As  it  comes  out  of  the  mountain  on 
the  west  side,  it  opens  into  a  broad,  grassy  valley, 
thickly  settled  with  farmers,  and  joins  the 
Weber  River  about  five  miles  distant.  The 
scenes,  as  the  traveler  passes  through  the  narrows 
of  the  canon,  are  wild  in  the  extreme.  The  rocks 
rise  from  500  to  2,000  feet  almost  perpendicularly, 
and  the  width  averages  less  than  100  feet  for  a 
long  distance.  In  this  canon,  geologists  have 
found  evidence  sufficiently  satisfactory  to  indi- 
cate that  the  entire  Salt  Lake  Valley  was  once 
a  huge  fresh  water  lake,  whose  surface  rose  high 
up  on  the  sides  of  the  mountains,  even  covering 
the  highest  terrace. 

Five  miles  up  the  canon,  which  runs  eastward, 
there  is  a  beautiful  little  valley,  with  table-like 
terraces,  30  to  50  feet  above  the  bed  of  the  creek, 
wherein  a  little  Mormon  village  is  located.  The 
situation  is  a  lovely  one — the  sides  of  the  hills 
which  enclose  the  valley,  are  800  to  1,000  feet 
high,  smoothly  rounded  and  sloping,  covered 
with  coarse  bunch  grass  and  small  bushes. 

In  addition  to  the  railroad  hotel  before  spoken 
of — which,  by  the  way,  is  a  first-class  house  and 
popular  with  the  traveling  public — Ogden  has 
several  hotels,  prominent  among  which  are  the 
JJtah  Hotel,  an  up-town  establishment,  conven- 
ient for  commercial  men,  and  the  Beardsley 
House  wTv"h  eaters  for  railroad  travel.  It  is 
also  supplied  •with  electric  light  works,  a 
newspaper,  the  Daily  Pilct,  a  lively  little 
sheet,  radically  opposed  to  Mormonism. 

The  city  water-works  are  supplied  with 
water  taken  from  the  Ogden  River,  at  the 
mouth  of  Ogden  Canon.  The  road  through 
the  canon  is  a  dugway  along  the  stream, 
and  sometimes  built  up  from  it,  while  the 
wall  rocks  on  either  side  tower  up  thou- 
sands of  feet.  The  water  in  the  river 
goes  rushing  madly  on  over  huge  rocks 
and  boulders  lying  in  the  bed  of  the 
stream,  as  though  it  would  push  them  out 
of  the  way.  In  some  places  the  rocks  al- 
most hang  over  the  road,  and  as  you 
round  some  point  they  seem  as  though 
they  would  push  you  into  the  stream.  In 
some  places  the  formation  and  dip  of  the  rocks 


127 


is  very  peculiar.  They  seem  to  be  set  up  on  end, 
in  thin  layers,  and  with  a  slight  dip,  while  the 
wash  of  ages  has  worn  out  a  channel  for  the 
river.  About  two  miles  up  the  canon,  Warm 
Spring  Canon  comes  in  on  the  right.  It  is  not 
much  of  a  canon,  but  high  up  on  the  mountain 
side,  near  its  source,  are  warm  springs  from 
which  it  takes  its  name.  About  half  a  mile  far- 
ther are  some  hot  sulphur  springs,  on  the  left 
side  of  the  river,  in  the  midst  of  a  little  grove  of 
trees.  This  is  a  ^-  ===== 

charming  resort 
for  the  tourist, 
and  he  will  never 
cease  admiring  the 
wild  and  rugged  in 
nature,as  exhibited 
in  this  canon.  The 
canon  is  about  six 
miles  long,  and 
the  stream  which 
runs  through  it  is 
filled  with  "  the 
speckled  beau- 
ties "  which  are  so 
tempting  to  the 
fisherman  and  so 
satisfactory  to  the 
epicure.  As  you 
look  to  the  top  of 
the  mountain  you 
will  see  pine  trees 
that  appear  like 
little  shrubs. 
These  trees  are 
from  50  to  80  feet 
in  height,  and  are 
cut  and  brought 
down  to  the  val- 
leys for  their 
timber.  Accommo- 
dations for  pleas- 
ure parties  for 
visiting  this  won- 
derful canon,  and 
for  fishing  and 
hunting,  can  be 
obtained  in  Ogden, 
and  no  excursion 
party  from  ocean 
to  ocean  should 
fail  to  visit  it. 
Beyond  the  mountains,  before  the  river  gorges 
through,  there  is  a  fertile  valley  pretty  well 
settled,  and  the  road  through  the  canon  gives 
the  people  living  there  an  outlet  to  the  town. 
This  road  was  built  several  years  ago,  and  re- 
quired a  great  deal  of  time  and  labor,  and  fitly 
illustrates  the  persevering  industry  of  the  Mor- 
mon people. 

Fruit-growing  is  very  common  in   the  vicin- 
ity of    Ogden,   and    a    large    quantity  of    the 


best  varieties  grown  in  the  Territory  are  pro. 
duced  in  this  region  of  country.  Utah  apples, 
peaches  and  pears  are  finer  in  size,  color  and 
flavor  than  any  grown  in  the  Eastern  or  Middle 
States. 

Hot  Springs.  —  Northward  from  Ogden, 
about  nine  miles,  is  a  very  interesting  lo- 
cality, known  as  the  Hot  Springs.  Here  is 
a  group  of  warm  springs,  forming,  in  the 
aggregate,  a  stream  three  feet  wide,  and  six 

to  twelve  inches 
deep;  the  sur- 
face, for  a  space 
of  300  to  400  yards 
in  extent,  is  cov- 
ered with  a  de- 
posit of  oxide  of 
iron,  so  that  it 
resembles  a  t  a  n  - 
yard  in  color. 
The  temperature  is 
136°.  They  flow 
from  beneath  a 
mountain  called 
Hot  S 
ain, 

five  miles  long  and 
three  wide.  The 
elevation  of  the 
lake  is  4,191  feet. 
The  water  of  the 
spring  is  clear  as 
crystal,  containing 
great  quantities  of 
iron,  and  the  sup- 
ply is  abundant. 
As  there  are  plenty 
of  cold  springs 
in  the  vicinity, 
there  is  nothing 
to  prevent  this 
from  being  a  noted 
place  of  resort 
for  invalids.  The 
medicinal  qual- 
ities of  this  water 
are  excellent  for 
rheumatism,  skin 
diseases,  dys- 
pepsia, and  the 


spring  Mount- 
vhich  is  about 


NARROWS  OF  OGDEN  CANON. 


climate 
passed. 


is    unsur- 


The  Territory  of  Utah. 

When  the  Mormons  first  located  in  Utah,  in 

1847,  it  was  territory  belonging  to  Mexico,  but 
by  the  treaty  of  Guadaloupe  Hidalgo,  in  March, 

1848,  it  was  passed  over  to  the  United  States 
with  New  Mexico  and  the  whole  of  upper  Cali- 
fornia.    The  government  of  the   United  States 
was  not  very  prompt  in  extending  its  jurisdic- 
tion over  the  newly-acquired  Territory,  and  in 


128 


129 


the  absence  of  any  other  government  the  Mor- 
mons set  up  one  for  themselves,  which  was  called 
the  State  of  Deseret.  This  was  done  in  the 
spring  of  1849.  On  the  9th  of  September,  1850, 
Congress  passed  a  bill  which  ignored  the  State 
government  of  the  Mormons,  and  organized  the 
Territory  of  Utah,  and  on  the  28th  of  that  same 
month,  Millard  Fillmore,  President,  appointed 
IJrigham  Young, Governor  of  the  Territory  with  a 
full  complement  of  executive  and  judicial  officers. 
Since  that  time  the  area  of  the  Territory  has  been 
diminished,  but  it  is  still  large  enough  for  all 
practical  purposes.  It  now  extends  from  the 
37th  to  the  42d  parallels  of  north  latitude,  and 
from  the  109th  to  the  114th  degree  of  longitude, 
embracing  over  84,000  square  miles  or  over 
54,000,000  of  acres.  The  national  census  of 
1870  showed  a  population  of  about  90,000,  and 
a  fair  estimate  would  give  the  Territory  about 
125,000  people  at  the  present  time.  The  climate, 
as  a  general  thing,  is  salubrious  and  healthy,  and 
violent  extremes  of  either  heat  or  cold  are  seldom 
experienced.  The  area  of  land  susceptible  of 
cultivation  is  small  as  compared  to  that  included 
in  the  whole  Territory,  and  a  large  quantity  of 
even  desert  land  is  now  unproductive  because  of 
the  presence  of  alkali  and  mineral  substances. 
While  all  kinds  of  grain  can  be  grown  with  more 
or  less  success — depending  upon  local  causes — 
wheat  is  the  great  staple,  and  in  favorable  sea- 
sons and  localities  monstrous  crops  of  the  great 
cereal  have  been  produced. 

It  may  astonish  eastern  readers,  but  it  is  nev- 
ertheless a  fact,  that  whole  fields,  producing 
from  fifty  to  sixty  bushels  per  acre  of  as  fine 
wheat  as  was  ever  grown,  are  no  uncommon 
thing  in  Utah.  The  land,  of  course,  is  irrigated, 
and  there  is  no  great  danger  of  loss  by  rains  dur- 
ing the  harvest  season.  The  average  yield,  it  is 
true,  is  a  great  deal  less  than  this,  amounting  to 
abcut  twenty-five  bushels  per  acre.  On  account 
of  the  high  altitude  and  cool  nights,  corn  will 
not  do  as  well,  though  fair  crops  are  raised. 
Vegetables  of  all  kinds  grow  to  an  astonishing 
size,  and  are  superior  in  quality.  Corn  will,  as  a 
general  thing,  do  better  in  the  valleys  in  the 
southern  part  of  the  Territory,  where  cotton  is 
also  grown  to  a  limited  extent,  and  some  kinds 
of  tropical  fruits.  The  climate  and  soil  are 
especially  adapted  to  the  production  of  apples, 
pears,  peaches,  plums,  currants,  strawberries, 
raspberries,  blackberries,  etc.  It  must  constantly 
be  borne  in  mind,  that  successful  agricultural 
pursuits  can  only  be  carried  on  here  with  irriga- 
tion, and  that,  as  a  general  thing,  it  costs  no 
more  to  irrigate  land  here,  nor  as  much,  as  it 
costs  to  drain  and  clear  it  in  many  of  the  Eastern 
States.  The  market  for  most  of  the  products 
raised  in. this  Territory,  is  at  the  mining  camps 
^and  settlements,  and  in  Nevada,  Idaho  and  Mon- 
tana. The  explorations  in  the  southern  half  of 
the  Territory,  have  resulted  in  the  discovery  of 


vast  deposits  of  iron,  coal,  copper,  silver,  gold 
and  lead.  In  the  Strawberry  Valley,  coal  veins 
over  twenty  feet  thick,  of  excellent  quality,  have 
been  discovered.  In  San  Pete  Valley,  other 
magnificent  coal  deposits  have  been  found,  from 
which  coke  for  smelting  purposes  has  been  made. 
East  of  the  Wahsatch  Range,  in  San  Pete 
County,  are  the  remains  of  the  Moquis  Village, 
of  which  much  has  been  written.  Iron  County, 
still  south,  is  so  named  from  the  vast  deposits  of 
this  material  found  within  its  limits;  and,  in 
the  spring  of  1876,  the  most  wonderful  discov- 
eries of  silver  were  made  near  St.  George,  in 
what  has  been  called  the  Bonanza  District. 
There  is  horn  silver  around  a  piece  of  petrified 
wood  in  a  sandstone  formation.  A  part  of  this 
petrifaction  was  coal.  The  discovery  of  silver 
in  such  a  formation,  has  upset  many  of  the  geo- 
logical theories  heretofore  prevalent  in  the 
country.  Ore  from  surface  mines  to  the  value 
of  over  fifty  thousand  dollars,  has  already  been 
taken  out. 

There  are  two  main  ranges  of  mountains  in 
Utah,  running  nearly  parallel  to  each  other. 
The  easternmost  range  is  the  Wahsatch,  and 
that  farther  west  the  Oquirrh.  Still  farther  to 
the  west  are  broken  ranges,  parallel  with 
those  above  named. 

Mining. — The  mountains  of  Utah  are  found 
to  contain  exceptionally  large  deposits  of  sil- 
ver, lead,  copper,  iron  and  coal;  and  in  some 
localities  gold,  antimony  and  cinnabar  are 
present  in  sufficient  quantities  to  pay  for  work- 
ing. Salt  is  shoveled  from  the  shores  of  Salt 
Lake  by  the  ton,  and  sulphur,  saltpeter,  gyp- 
sum, plumbago,  soda,  rock  salt,  marble,  slate 
and  limestone  are  among  kindred  resources. 
Utah's  ores  are  generally  easily  produced,  often 
ly_ing  in  largest  deposits  near  lines  of  her  splen- 
did system  of  railways.  They  are  easily  worked 
as  a  rule,  and  dozens  of  mills  and  smelters 
are  in  successful  operation  within  a  few 
miles  of  the  most  noted  mines.  Bich  dis- 
coveries are  constantly  reporte-1  from  the 
more  remote  distncts.  Some  of  these,  in 
the  southern  portion  of  the  territory,  con- 
sist of  immense  deposits  of  a  high  grade  of 
silver  ores. 

The  Ontario  mine,  which  has  filled  the  pub- 
lic prints,  is  one  of  the  richest  mines  on  the 
continent,  having  paid  some  fifty  successive 
monthly  dividends  of  $75,000  each  in  the 
past  four  years,  or  a  total  of  nearly  $4,000,000. 
In  fact,  Utah  alone  has  all  the  resources  of  an 
empire;  and  if  it  were  only  under  a  safe, 
stable  and  peaceful  political  local  government, 
she  would  become  one  of  the  richest  and 
brightest  stars  in  the  coronet  of  the  na- 
tion. It  were  well  if  certain  pages  in  net- 
eventful  history  could  be  forever  obliter- 
ated. 

Utah  Central  Railroad.— Ogden  is  the 


northern  terminus  of  this  road.  It  is  the  pioneer 
line  of  Utah  proper,  though  the  Union  Pacific 
and  Central  Pacific  Roads  were  completed  first 
through  the  magnificent  generosity  of  the  people 
of  the  United  States.  Early  in  May,  1869,  the 
iron  rails  which  bound  the  Continent  together 
were  joined  near  Promontory,  some  50  miles 
west  of  Ogden.  One  week  after  this  was  done, 
work  on  the  Utah  Central  began.  The  company 
was  organized  on  the  8th  of  March  previous, 
Brigham  Young  being  president.  A  large 
quantity  of  material  for  building  railroads  was 
left  on  hand,  when  the  Union  Pacific  was 
finished  to  Promontory,  and  this  was  purchased 
by  the  Utah  Central  Company.  Brigham 
Young  had  entered  into  a  contract  for  grading 
the  former  road,  from  the  head  of  Echo  Canon 
to  Ogden,  and  successfully  accomplished  the 
work.  If  this  had  not  been  done,  that  road 
would  have  failed  in  its  race  across  the  Conti- 
nent, and  the  Central  Pacific  would  have  built 
the  greatest  part  of  the  trans-continental  line. 
His  contract  was  sublet  to  John  Sharp  and 
Joseph  A.  Young,  the  eldest  son  of  the  Mormon 
prophet.  With  an  energy  and  push  that  had 
scarcely  been  expected  from  the  disciples  of 
Mormonism,  this  work  was  crowded  with  all 
possible  speed,  and  they  obtained  that  experi- 
ence in  railroad  building  then,  which  has  been  of 
great  advantage  to  the  people  of  Utah  since. 
In  less  than  eight  months  from  the  time 
ground  was  broken  for  this  new  line  of 
road,  the  last  rail  was  laid,  and  on  the  10th 
day  of  January,  1870,  the  first  through 
train  from  Ogden  arrived  in  Salt  Lake  City. 
Their  road  now  crosses  the  Central  Pacific 
in  Ogden,  at  nearly  right  angles,  and  their 
depot  and  freight  houses  are  north  of  the 
Pacific  roads.  Arriving  at  Ogden  from  the 
east,  the  traveler,  looking  ahead  to  the  right, 
will  see  the  engine  and  train  of  cars  ready  to 
take  him  to  the  City  of  the  Saints.  Entering 
elegantly  furnished  cars  at  about  6  o'clock  P.M., 
and  turning  your  back  upon  Ogden  and  the 
lofty  mountain  peaks  behind  it,  you  will  soon 
be  off.  In  less  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  the 
road  passes  over  the  "Weber  Biver  on  a  new  and 
elegant  iron  bridge,  put  up  by  the  American 
Bridge  Company  of  Chicago.  It  is  a  suspension 
bridge,  150  feet  span,  each  end  resting  on  a 
solid  abutment  of  masonry.  This  bridge  is  so 
constructed  that  it  will  contract  by  cold  or  ex- 
pand by  heat  as  one  body,  one  end  being  placed 
on  rollers  to  allow  self  adjustment  by  the  action 
of  heat  or  cold.  The  bridge  crossed,  the  road 
passes  through  a  cut,  and  rises  upon  a  bench  or 
terrace  of  land  from  which,  off  to  the  right,  the 
traveler  obtains  the  first  view  of  the  Dead  Sea 
of  America — the  Great  Salt  Lake.  The  general 
direction  of  the  road  is  due  south,  and  you  pur- 
sue your  way  along  the  base  of  the  foot  hills 
and  mountains,  which  form  the  first  line  looking 


east,  of  the  Wahsatch  Range.  As  far  as 
Kaysville,  the  road  passes  over  a  comparatively 
unsettled  country,  though  in  the  dim  distance  on 
the  right,  the  farming  settlements  of  Hooper  may 
be  seen  near  the  mouth  of  Weber  River.  We 
soon  arrive  at 

Kaysville, — 16  miles  from  Ogden.  It  is  a 
telegraph  station  surrounded  by  a  farming  set- 
tlement, with  its  "co-op"  store,  blacksmith-shop 
and  the  usual  buildings  of  a  small  country  town. 
In  entering  and  leaving,  the  road  crosses  several 
little  creeks  that  flow  down  from  the  mountains, 
the  waters  of  which  are  nearly  all  drank  up  by 
the  dry  earth  in  the  processes  of  irrigation. 
Passing  on,  the  traveler  will  notice  a  few  houses 
and  settlements,  toward  the  lake  and  mountains, 
sometimes  nearer  the  mountains ;  arriving  at 

Farmington, — the  next  station,  21 1-4  miles 
from  Ogden.  It  is  the  county-seat  of  Davis 
County,  and  has,  besides  a  court-house,  the  usual 
store  and  shops.  This  town  is  also  located  in 
the  midst  of  a  farming  region,  and  nearly  over- 
shadowed by  the  mountains  on  the  east.  Davis 
County  slopes  to  the  west  toward  the  lake,  has  a 
warm  rich  soil,  and  when  irrigated,  produces 
luxuriant  crops  of  vegetables,  melons,  grain,  etc., 
for  the  Salt  Lake  market.  Leaving  this  station 
the  road  draws  near  to  the  side  of  this  great 
inland  sea,  to 

Centerville, — 25  1-2  miles  from  Ogden, — a 
little  farming  town  with  its  store,  etc.  Between 
the  lake  on  one  side  and  the  mountains  on  the 
other,  and  the  thrifty  farms  with  orchards  and 
gardens  now  on  either  side  and  all  around  him, 
the  traveler  will  be  kept  pretty  busy. 

Wood's  Cross — is  the  next  station,  27  3-4 
miles  from  Ogden.  It  is  about  midway  between 
the  mountains  and  the  lake,  and  is  located  in 
what  is  called  the  best  portion  of  Davis  County. 
It  is  a  telegraph  station  with  usual  side  tracks, 
etc.  The  country  gradually  slopes  into  the 
lake  toward  the  west  with  an  occasional  drift  of 
sand  near  the  shore,  covered  with  the  inevitable 
sage  brush  which  we  have  had  since  leaving  Lara- 
mie  River.  The  cosy  farm  houses  and  the  evi- 
dences of  thrift  everywhere  visible,  the  growing 
crops  and  ripening  fruits,  if  in  the  summer — aU 
conspire  to  make  a  pleasant  landscape,  upon  which 
the  traveler  can  feast  his  greedy  gaze,  while  the 
shadow  of  the  mountains  grows  longer,  and  the 
twilight  deepens  into  night  as  we  arrive  at 

Salt  Lake  City, — the  southern  terminus  of 
the  road,  36  1-2  miles  from  Ogden.  But  of  this 
city,  more  in  another  place. 

The  Utah  Central  has  been  a  paying  road 
from  the  start,  and  its  business,  as  the  years  pass 
by,  is  destined  to  make  it  better  still.  We  have 
not  all  the  data  at  hand  to  show  what  it  has  done, 
but  will  give  one  or  two  illustrations.  In  1873, 
its  tonnage  was  as  follows.  Freights  received, 
233,533,450  Ibs.  Freights  shipped,  55,387,754 
Ibs.  In  1874,  there  was  a  slight  falling  off, 


132 


though  it  was  not  as  large  as  expected  from  the 
business  done  in  1873,  because  of  general  depres- 
sion of  the  mining  interest  of  the  Territory.  In 
1880  its  business  "was  as  follows:  Freights  re- 
ceived, 250,728,000  Ibs.;  freights  shipped, 
48,134,000  Ibs.  Its  gross  earnings  for  1880 
were  about  $500,000.  Its  operating  expenses 
•were  about  $175,000.  This  last  sum  does 
not  of  course  include  dividends  on  its  stock 
of  §1,500,000,  nor  the  interest  on  its  bonds, 
amounting  to  $1,000,000.  The  passenger 
fare,  first-class,  from  Ogden  to  Salt  Lake 
is  $2.  The  controlling  interest  in  this  road  is 
at  present  owned  by  stockholders  in  the  Union 
Pacific. 

SALT  LAKE  CITY. 

Its  Discovert/. — When  Brigham  Young, 
with  his  weary  band  of  pioneers  arrived  here,  in 
1817,  it  was  a  dreary  waste,  nevertheless  a 
beautiful  site  so  far  as  location  is  concerned,  for 
a  city.  It  lies  on  a  bench  or  gradual  slope  from 
the  Wahsatch  Mountains,  which  tower  up  be- 
hind it  on  the  east,  to  the  River  Jordan,  which 
bounds  it  on  the  west.  It  is  recorded  that  when 
the  pioneers  came  within  a  few  days'  march  of 
the  place,  Orson  Pratt  and  a  few  others  went 
ahead  of  the  party  "  to  spy  out  the  land  "  and 
select  a  place  for  camping,  etc.,  convenient 
to  wood  and  water.  On  the  22d  day  of  July, 
1847,  he  rode  over  this  valley  with  his  compan- 
ions, and  returning  to  the  main  body,  reported 
the  results  of  their  observations.  On  the  morn- 
ing of  July  24,  1847,  this  body  arrived  at  the 
top  of  the  hill,  overlooking  the  site  of  the  city, 
and  the  valley  beyond,  and  were  enchanted  with 
the  scene.  They  gave  vent  to  their  joy  in  ex- 
clamations of  thanksgiving  and  praise  to 
Almighty  God.  firmly  believing  they  had  found 
the  land  of  promise,  though  it  did  not  flow  with 
"  milk  and  honey,"  and  the  "  Zion  of  the  Mount- 
ains "  predicted  by  ancient  prophets.  The  Mor- 
mons are  great  on  literal  interpretation.  Figu- 
rative language  and  expressions  as  viewed  by 
them  are  realities.  The  Bible  means  exactly 
what  it  says  with  them.  They  had  reasons, 
however,  for  being  enchanted.  From  the  canon 
through  which  they  entered  the  valley,  the  view 
is  simply  magnificent.  The  Great  Salt  Lake 
glittered  like  a  sheet  of  silver  in  the  rays  of  the 
morning  sun ;  the  towering  peaks  of  the  mount- 
ain ranges,  crowned  with  clouds  and  snow, 
lifted  themselves  high  up  toward  the  sky,  and 
the  valley,  though  a  desert,  was  to  them  as  lovely 
as  a  June  rose.  The  party  camped  on  a  small 
stream  south-west  of  the  Tabernacle,  and  pro- 
ceeded to  consecrate  the  entire  valley  to  the 
"  Kingdom  of  God."  On  the  28th  of  the  same 
month,  the  ground  for  the  temple  was  selected — 
a  tract  of  40  acres,  and  a  city  two  miles  square 
was  laid  off.  Streets  eight  rods  wide  were 


staked  out,  and  the  blocks  contained  ten  acres 
each.  Orson  Pratt  took  observations,  and  deter- 
mined the  latitude  and  longitude  of  the  city.  A 
large  number  of  this  pioneer  party,  after  planting 
their  crops  returned  for  their  families,  and  the 
last  expedition  for  that  year  arrived  on  the  last 
day  of  October,  when  they  were  received  by  those 
that  remained  with  demonstrations  of  great  joy. 
Brigham  Young  went  back  with  the  returning 
party,  and  did  not  find  his  way  again  to  "  Zion  " 
until  the  next  year.  After  the  city  had  been 
founded,  emigration  from  foreign  countries, 
which  had  been  suspended,  was  re-organized 
and  came  pouring  into  the  Territory  in  masses. 
The  city  grew  and  the  people  spread  out  over 
the  Territory,  settling  every  available  spot  of 
land,  thus  contributing  to  its  prosperity. 

Beauty  of  Position. — The  main  portion  of 
the  city  lies  off  to  the  left,  as  it  is  approached  by 
the  traveler,  and  presents  a  pleasing  appearance. 
Its  streets  are  wide,  with  streams  of  water  cours- 
ing their  way  along  the  sides,  while  rows  of 
beautiful  shade  trees  line  the  walks;  and  gar- 
dens, and  yards  filled  with  fruit  trees  of  various 
kinds,  everywhere  greet  the  eye.  Visitors 
who  are  interested  in  beautiful  gardens,  will 
find  the  most  interesting  on  Main  Street,  just 
west  of  the  Walker  House,  at  the  residences 
of  the  Walker  Brothers  ;  also  at  Mr.  Jen- 
nings, on  Temple  Street,  near  the  depots. 
The  city  is  now  nearly  thirty  years  old,  and 
in  that  time  the  tourist  can  see  for  him- 
self what  wonderful  changes  have  been 
made.  The  desert  truly  buds  and  blossoms 
as  the  rose.  The  city  is  admirably  located 
for  beauty,  and  at  once  charms  its  visitors. 
The  tourist  should  engage  a  carriage  and  drive 
up  and  down  the  shaded  streets,  and  see  the  wil- 
derness of  fruit  groves  and  gardens.  The  first 
practical  thing,  however,  with  the  traveler  is  to 
select  his  stopping  place,  during  his  visit.  Of 
hotels  there  are  two  first-class  houses  that  are 
popular  resorts  with  the  traveling  public.  The 
Walker  House  is  a  four  story  brick  structure  with 
132  rooms.  It  is  located  on  the  west  side  of 
Main  Street,  has  a  frontage  of  82  feet  and  a 
depth  of  120  feet.  It  has  lately  been  entirely 
renovated  and  handsomely  furnished;  also  has 
had  the  addition  of  a  passenger  elevator.  It  is 
especially  noted  for  its  excellent  table,  which  is 
abundant  in  game,  fruits,  fish,  etc.  The  Con- 
tinental Hotel  (formerly  Townsend  House)  is  on 
the  corner  of  West  Temple  and  South  Second 
streets,  and  has  a  fine  shady  piazza  along  the 
front.  Both  of  these  hotels  face  eastward,  both 
are  lighted  with  gas,  and  both  are  supplied  with 
all  modern  conveniences  and  luxuries.  There  are 
also  other  good  hotels  in  the  city,  which  are  con- 
sidered second-class,  and  are  largely  patronized. 

Sights  for  Tourists. — Having  selected  a 
stopping  place,  the  next  thing  is  a  visit  to  the 
warm  sulphur  spiings  for  a  bath.  The  strait 


133 


OFFICES  AND  FAMILY  RESIDENCE  OF  BR1GHAM   YOUNG. 


cars,  running  by  nearly  all  the  hotels,  will  take 
you  there. 

Warm  Springs. — These  are,  to  invalids, 
the  most  grateful  and  delightful  places  of  resort 
in  the  city.  Exceedingly  valuable  either  for 
rheumatic  or  dyspeptic  complaints,  they  are  ex- 
cellent in  general  invigorating  properties,  and 
specially  efficacious  in  skin  diseases.  They  are 
but  about  one  mile  from  the  hotel,  and  can  be 
reached  either  by  horse-cars  or  carriage,  or  by 
a  pleasant  walk.  The  best  time  to  enjoy  them  is 
early  in  the  morning  before  breakfast,  or  before 
dinner.  The  baths  never  should  be  taken  within 
three  hours  after  a  meal.  The  springs  issue 
from  the  limestone  rock  near  the  foot  of  the 
mountains,  and  the  curious  character  of  the  rock 
is  seen  in  the  stones  used  for  either  fences  or  the 
foundation  of  the  buildings.  The  following  an- 
alysis has  been  made  of  the  water  by  Dr.  Charles 
S.  Jackson  of  Boston,  and  is  generally  posted  on 
the  walls  of  the  bathing-house. 

"  Three  fluid  ounces  of  the  water,  on  evapo- 
rating to  entire,  dryness  in  a  platine  capsule,  gave 
8.25  grains  of  solid  dry  saline  matter. 


Carbonate  of  lime  -and  magnesia, 

Peroxide  of  iron, 

Lime. 

Chlorine, 

Soda. 

Magnesia, 

Sulphuric  Acid, 


0.240 
0.040 
0.545 
3.454 
2.877 
0.370 
0.703 


1.280 
0.208 
2.907 
18.421 
15.344 
2.073 
3.748 


8.229    43.981 

It  is  slightly  charged  with  hydro-sulphuric  acid 
gas,  and  with  carbonic  acid  gas,  and  is  a  pleas- 
ant, saline  mineral  water,  having  the  valuable 
properties  belonging  to  a  saline  sulphur  spring. 

The  temperature  is  lukewarm,  and,  being  of 
a  sulphurous  nature,  the  effects  are  very  pene- 
trating ;  at  first  the  sensation  is  delicious,  pro- 
ducing a  delightful  feeling  of  ease  and  re- 


pose ;  but  il  the  bather  remains  long,  over 
fifteen  minutes,  there  is  danger  of  weakness  and 
too  great  relaxation.  These  baths  are  now  un- 
der control  of  an  experienced  gentleman,  and 
fitted  up  with  every  modern  convenience.  Here 
are  Turkish  baths,  Hot  Air  baths  and  Russian 
baths,  in  addition  to  the  natural  bath.  The 
warm  sulphur-water  can  be  enjoyed  in  private 


NEW  MORMON  TEMPLE. 


rooms,  or  in  the  large  swimming  bath.  There  are 
separate  rooms  for  ladies  and  gentlemen,  and  a 
smaller  building  near  by  is  fixed  up  for  the  boys, 
where  they  can  frolic  to  their  heart's  content. 
Mot    Springs. — The   tourist   should   take 


134 


carriage,  and,  after  visiting  the  Warm  Springs 
and  enjoying  the  bath,  drive  a  mile  farther  north 
to  where  the  mountain  spur  juts  out  to  the  very 
railroad — and,  right  at  its  base  are  situated  the 
"Hot  Springs"  which  are  the  greatest  natural 
curiosity  of  the  city.  The  water  boils  up,  with 
great  force,  from  a  little  alcove  in  the  limestone 
rocks,  just  even  with  the  suiiace  of  the  ground. 
If  you  dare  to  thrust  your  hand  in  it,  you  will 
find  it  boiling  hot,  apparently  with  a  temperature 
of  over  200°.  The  finger  can  not  be  retained  in 
the  water  longer  than  a  very  few  seconds ;  yet  the 
sensation,  as  it  is  withdrawn,  is  so  soft  and  cool- 
ing, one  would  like  to  try  it  again  and  again,  and 
strange  to  say,  rarely  with  any  danger  oi  scald- 
ing. If  meat  is  dropped  into  this  boiling  water, 


agriculture  and  vegetation  for  hundreds  of  yards 
within  the  vicinity.  This  lake  is  also  supposed 
to  be  supplied,  to  some  extent,  by  other  hot 
springs  beneath  the  surface.  Strange  as  it  may 
seem,  the  hot  water  does  not  prevent  the  ex- 
istence of  some  kinds  of  excellent  fish,  among 
which  have  been  seen  some  very  fine  large  trout. 
Analysis  of  Hot  Sulphur  Spring : 


Chloride  of  Sodium, 

"   Magnesium, 
"          "    Calcium, 
Sulphate  of  Lime. 
Carbonate  of  Lime, 
Silica, 


0.8052 
0.0288 
0.1096 
0.0806 
0.0180 
0.0180 

1.0602 


Specific  gravity,  1.1454. 

The  Museum — is  located  on  the  south  side 


INTERIOR  OF  OFFICE  OF  THE  MORMON  PRESIDENT. 


it  is  soon  cooked,  (though  we  cannot  guarantee 
a  pleasant  taste)  and  eggs  will  be  boiled,  ready 
for  the  table,  in  three  minutes.  Often  a  dense 
volume  of  steam  rises  from  the  spring,  though 
not  always.  A  very  large  volume  of  water  issues 
forth  from  the  little  hole  in  the  rock — scarcely 
larger  than  the  top  of  a  barrel — about  four  feet 
wide  and  six  to  twenty  inches  deep.  Immedi- 
ately near  the  rock  is  a  little  pool,  in  which  the 
water,  still  hot,  deposits  a  peculiar  greenish  color 
on  the  sides,  and  coats  the  long,  wavy  grass  with 
its  sulphurous  sediment.  Flowing  beneath  the 
railroad  track  and  beyond  in  the  meadows,  it 
forms  a  beautiful  little  lake,  called  Hot  Spring 
Lake,  which,  constantly  filling  up,  is  steadily  in- 
creasing its  area,  and,  practically,  destroying  all 


of  South  Temple  street,  and  directly  opposite 
the  Tabernacle.  Professor  Barfoot  is  in  charge, 
and  he  will  show  you  specimen  ores  from  the 
mines,  precious  stones  from  the  desert,  pottery- 
ware  and  other  articles  from  the  ruins  of  ancient 
Indian  villages,  the  first  boat  ever  launched  on  the 
Great  Salt  Lake  by  white  men,  home-made 
cloths  and  silks,  the  products  of  the  industry  of 
this  people,  specimen  birds  of  Utah,  a  scalp 
from  the  head  of  a  dead  Indian,  implements  of 
Indian  warfare  and  industry,  such  as  blankets 
white  people  cannot  make,  shells  from  the  ocean, 
and  various  articles  from  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
and  other  things  too  numerous  to  mention. 

Formerly  there  were  quite  a  number  of  living 
wild  animals  kept  here,  but  some  fiend  poisoned 


135 


VIEW  OF  SALT  LAKE  CITY,  LOOKING  WESTWARD  ACKOSS  THE  JORDAN  VALLEY. 


the  most  of  them.  There  are  now  living,  how- 
ever, a  large  horned  owl,  a  prairie  dog,  and  the 
owls  that  burrow  with  him,  together  with  the 
rattlesnake ;  also  other  birds  and  reptiles  which 
need  not  be  named.  This  institution  is  the  re- 
sult of  the  individual  enterprise  of  John  W. 


SIGN  OF  MORMON  STORES. — SALT  LAKE  CITY. 


Young,  Esq.,  and  for  which  he  is  entitled  to 
great  credit.  A  nominal  sum,  simply,  is  charged 
for  admission,  which  goes  for  the  support  of  Pro- 
fessor Barfoot,  who  has  the  care  and  direction  of 
the  Museum.  Across  the  street,  behind  a  high 
wall,  is  the  Tabernacle,  and  near  by  it,  on  the 
east,  enclosed  within  the  same  high  wall,  are  the 
foundation  walls  of  the  new  Temple.  We  shall 
not  attempt  a  description  of  either,  as  a  personal 
inspection  will  be  far  more  satisfactory  to  the 
visitor.  We  advise  every  tourist  to  get  to  the 
top  of  the  Tabernacle,  if  possible,  and  get  a  view 
of  the  city  from  the  roof.  Within  the  same 
walls  may  be  found  the  Endowment  house,  of 
which  so  much  has  been  written.  In  this  build- 
ing both  monogamous  and  polygamous  marriages 
take  place,  and  the  quasi-masonic  rites  of  the 
church  are  performed.  On  South  Temple  street, 
east  of  Temple  block,  is  the  late  residence  of 
Brigham  Young,  also  enclosed  in  a  high  wall 
which  shuts  out  the  rude  gaze  of  passers-by,  and 
gently  reminds  the  outsider  that  he  has  no  busi- 
ness to  obtrude  there.  Nearly  opposite  to  this 
residence  is  a  large  and  beautiful  house  which 
is  supposed  to  belong  to  the  Prophet's  favorite 
wife,  Amelia  —  familiarly  called  Amelia  Palace, 
probably  the  finest  residence  for  500  miles  around. 
Returning  to  East  Temple  or  Main  street,  we 
behold  a  large  brick  building  with  iron  and 
glass  front,  three  stories  high,  with  a  skylight  its 


136 


wmm 


entire  length.  This  is  the  new  "co-op"  store, 
40  feet  wide  and  300  feet  long,  with  all  the  mod- 
ern improvements,  steam  elevator,  etc.  Nearly 
opposite  this  store  is  Savage's  picture  gallery, 
whose  photographs  of  scenery  and  views 
along  the  road,  are  the  finest  of  any  ever 
issued  in  the  Territory.  Continuing  on 
the  same  street  south,  the  handsome  build- 
ing of  the  Deseret  National  Bank  greets 
our  gaze,  on  the  north-east  corner  of  East 
Temple  and  First 
South  streets.  Di- 
agonally across  the 
street  from  this  is 
the  emporium  of 
William  Jennings, 
Esq.  But  it  is 
needless  to  enu- 
merate all  the 
buildings  in  the 
city,  be  they  pub- 
lic or  private. 
We  must  not  omit, 
however,  the  ele- 
gant private  resi- 
dence and  beau- 
tiful grounds  of 
Mr.  Jennings,  on 
the  corner  east  of 
the  depot.  They 
are  worthy  of  a 
visit,  and  so,  also, 
is  the  elegant  pri- 
vate residence  of 
Feramor  Little, 
directly  east  of  the 
Deseret  National 
Bank.  The  theater 
is  open  occasion- 
ally in  the  even- 
ing, where  may  be 
seen  many  of  the 
leading  Mormons 
and  their  families. 

The  city  is  sup- 
plied  with  the 
electric  light,  gas, 
water,  and  street 
railroads.  The 
water  is  brought 
from  City  Creek  Canon,  through  the  principal 
streets,  in  iron  pipes,  though  in  some  seasons 
the  supply  is  rather  short. 

Scenery  Near  t/ie  City.— North  of  the  city, 
Ensign  Peak  lifts  its  head,  the  Mountain  of 
Prophecy,  etc.  Its  crown  is  oval  in  shape,  and 
the  mountain,  etc  ,  is  said  to  have  been  seen  in  a 
vision  by  some  of  the  Mormon  dignitaries  long 
before  it  was  beheld  by  the  naked  eyes  of  the 
present  settlers.  The  sight  from  this  peak,  or 
others  near  at  hand,  is  grand  and  impressive. 
Under  your  feet  lies  the  City  of  the  Saints,  to 


INTERIOR  OF  MORMOV  TABERNACLE. — THE  GREAT  ORGAN. 


the  west  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  to  the  south  the 
valley  of  the  river  Jordan,  the  settlements  along 
the  line  of  the  railroad,  and  the  mountains  on 
either  side.  Though  the  way  to  the  summit  re- 
quires a  little  toil,  and  will  expand  one's  lungs  to 
the  fullest  extent,  yet  the  reward,  when  once  the 
summit  is  reached,  will  amply  pay  for  all  the 
toil  it  has  cost. 

In  the  summer  months  only,  the  Tabernacle  is 
open,  and  the  services  of  the  Mormon  church  are 

then  held  there 
nearly  every  Sab- 
bath. Behind  the 
rostrum  or  pulpit 
is  the  great  organ, 
made  in  the  city, 
and  said  to  be  the 
second  in  size  on 
the  Continent. 

East  of  the  city 
there  seems  to  be 
a  withdrawal  of 
the  mountains  and 
a  part  of  a  circle, 
formed  like  an 
amphitheatre. 
About  two  miles 
east  is  Camp 
Douglas,  estab- 
lished by  General 
Connor  during  the 
late  war.  It  is  beau- 
tifully located  on 
an  elevated  bench 
commanding  the 
city,and  at  the  base 
of  the  mountains. 
New  buildings 
have  been  erected, 
and  it  is  now 
considered  one 
of  the  finest  and 
most  convenient 
posts  the  govern- 
ment has.  It  is 
supplied  with 
water  from  Red 
Butte  Canon,  and 
has  a  great  many 
conveniences. 
Below  Camp  Douglas,  Emigration  Canon  next 
cuts  the  mountains  in  twain.  It  is  the  canon 
through  which  Orson  Pratt  and  his  companions 
came  when  they  first  discovered  the  valley,  the 
lake,  and  the  site  for  a  city — through  which 
Brigham  Young  and  the  pioneers  came,  and  was 
the  route  by  which  nearly  all  the  overland  emi- 
grants arrived,  on  coming  from  the  East.  Below 
this,  as  you  look  south,  is  Parley's  Canon, 
through  which  a  road  leads  to  Parley's  Park  and 
the  mining  districts  in  that  region.  Then  comes 
South  Mill  Creek  with  its  canon,  through  the 


137 


towering  peaks,  and  then  the  Big  Cottonwood 
Creek  and  Canon.  Between  it  and  Little  Cot- 
tonwood Canon,  next  on  the  south,  is  the  mount- 
ain of  silver — or  the  hill  upon  which  is  located 
some  of  the  richest  paying  mines  in  the  Terri- 
tory. Here  is  the  Flagstaff,  the  North  Star,  the 
Emma,  the  Heed  &  Benson,  and  others  worth 
their  millions.  The  Emma  mine  has  become 
notorious  in  the  history  of  mines,  but  there  is 
not  a  practical  miner  in  Utah  who  doubts  the 
existence  of  large  bodies  of  rich  ore  there,  and, 
if  it  had  been  practically  worked,  would,  in  the 
opinion  of 
many,  have 
etqualed,  if  not 
exceeded,  the 
celebrated  Corn- 
stock  lode  be- 
fore this. 

No  visitor  to 
Salt  Lake 
s  h  o  u  Id  leave 
the  city  with- 
out a  trip  to  the 
lake  and  a  ride 
on  its  placid 
bosom — a  trip, 
also,  to  the 
southern  ter- 
minus of  the 
Utah  Southern 
Railroad,  the 
mountains  and 
canons  along 
its  line,  and  to 
the  mountains 
and  mines  of 
Stockton, 
Ophir,  Bing- 
ham,  and  above 
all,  the  Cotton- 
wood  districts. 
If  you  are  fur- 
ther inclined  to 
improve  the  op- 
portunity, ride 
up  to  Parley's 
Park,  go  to 
Provo  and  spend  a  week,  or  a  month  even,  in 
visiting  the  wonderful  canons  near  there,  and 
in  hunting  and  fishing  in  the  mountain  streams 
and  in  Lake  Utah.  A  trip  to  the  summit  of 
old  Mount  Nebo  would  afford  you  good  ex- 
ercise, and  very  fine  views.  With  Salt  Lake 
for  headquarters,  all  these  places  can  be  taken 
in,  and  your  only  regret  will  be  that  you  did 
not  stay  longer,  travel  farther,  and  see  more  of 
this  wonderful  land. 

Gardening,  Irrigation.— The  city  was 
originally  laid  out  in  large  ten  acre  blocks,  which 
were,  in  time,  subdivided  into  house  lots,  most 
of  which,  having  been  liberally  planted  with 


SEW  RESIDENCE  OF  BRIGHAM  YOUNG.— AMELIA  PALACE. 


fruit  trees,  have  since  grown  with  great  luxuri- 
ance, and  the  city  seems  a  vast  fruit  orchard  and 
garden.  Through  all  the  streets  run  the  little 
irrigating  streams,  and  every  part  of  the  city 
has  its  chance,  once  or  twice  a  week,  to  get  a  sup- 
ply of  pure  water  to  wet  the  soil  and  freshen  the 
vegetation. 

The  city  is  divided  into  wards.  Every  ward 
has  its  master,  and  he  compels  all  the  inhab- 
itants to  turn  out  and  work  on  public  improve- 
ments. There  is  no  shirking.  Every  one  has  a 
responsibility  to  guard  and  watch  his  own 

property,  take 
care  of  his  own 
irrigating 
ditches,  and 
keep  his  ward 
in  perfect  order. 
The  city  is  one 
of  perfect  order 
and  quietness. 

Through  all 
the  streets  of 
the  city  there 
is  a  universal 
and  luxuriant 
growth  of 
shade  trees. 
These  have 
been  planted 
profusely,  and 
grow  with 
amazing  rapid- 
ity. The  lo- 
cust, maple  and 
box-elder,  are 
the  greatest  fa- 
vorites, the  for- 
mer, however, 
being  most 
planted.  In 
many  cases 
the  roots  have 
struck  the  al- 
kali soils,  which 
contain  an  ex- 
cess o  f  soda 
and  potash,  and 
their  leaves  have  turned  from  a  bright  or  dark 
green  to  a  sickly  yellow — and  often  trees  may  be 
noticed,  half  green  and  half  yellow. 

This  alkali  has  to  be  washed  out  of  the  soil  by 
irrigation,  and  gradually  grows  less  positive  year 
by  year.  In  nearly  all  the  gardens  are  splendid 
apples,  pears,  plums  and  apricots,  growing  with 
exceeding  thrift,  and  covered  with  the  most 
beautiful  blushing  colors.  Apricots  which  in 
the  East  are  almost  unknown,  here  have  been  so 
abundant  as  often  to  sell  as  low  as  $1.00  per 
bushel,  and  we  have  seen  them  as  large  as  east- 
ern peaches,  from  four  to  six  and  eight  inches 
round. 


i3S 


Flowers  are  very  abundant,  and  vegetables  are 
wonderfully  prolific.  In  the  gardens  of  William 
Jennings,  may  be  seen  growing  out  doors  on 
trellises,  grapes,  the  Black  Hamburgh,  Golden 
Chasselas  and  Mission  grape,  varieties  which  are 
only  grown  in  a  hot-house  in  the  East.  Through 
all  the  gardens  can  be  seen  an  abundance  of 
raspberries,  gooseberries  and  currants.  In  Mr. 
Jennings's  garden,  in  summer,  may  be  seen  a 
pretty  flower  garden,  150  feet  in  diameter, — 
•within  the  center  of  which  is  a  piece  of  velvety 
lawn — the  finest  and  most  perfect  ever  seen — 
while  from  it,  southward,  can  be  caught  a  spe- 
cially glorious  view  of  the  Twin  Peaks  of  the 
Wahsatch  Mountains,  capped  with  unvarying 
snow. 

Future  of  Salt  Lake  City. — The  future  of 
Salt  Lake  depends  upon  two  things — the  mines 
and  the  railroads.  If  the  mines  are  developed 
and  capital  is  thus  increased,  it  will  have  a  ten- 
dency to  cause  an  immense  amount  of  building 
in  the  city,  and  a  corresponding  advance  in  real 
estate.  The  city  now  lias  a  population  of 
twenty  thousand.  Many  parties  owning  and 
•operating  mines  make  the  city  their  place  of 
residence,  and  some  have  already  invested  in 
real  estate  there.  If  the  Utah  Southern  is 
extended  to  the  Pacific  Coast,  it  will  add  largely 
to  the  wealth,  population  and  influence  of  the 
"  City  of  the  Saints. "  The  silent  influence  of 
the  Gentiles,  and  the  moral  power  of  the 
^Nation,  have  already  had  an  effect  upon  the 
Mormons  of  the  city,  which  will  soon  be  felt 
throughout  the  Territory. 

Newspapers. — The  press  of  Salt  Lake  is 
exceedingly  peculiar.  The  Daily  News  is  the 
recognized  church  organ;  the  Daily  Ht -raid  is 
more  lively.  It  is  the  organ  of  the  so-called 
progressive  Mormons.  The  Daily  Tribune  is 
a  stinging,  lively  journal — the  leading  organ 
of  the  opposition  to  the  priesthood  and  the 
theocracy.  The  Mail  is  an  evening  paper, 
tinder  Gentile  influences,  but  not  as  bold  or 
."belligerent  as  the  Tribune.  The  Utah  Weekly 
Miner  is  a  paper  devoted  to  the  development 
of,  the  mineral  resources  of  the  Territory. 
There  is  another  little  evening  paper  called 
the  Times,  under  church  influences.  Fortunes 
have  been  expended  upon  newspaper  enter- 
prises in  Salt  Lake,  but  with  the  exception 
of  the  three  papers  first  mentioned,  none  have 
succeeded. 

.  The  Utah  Southern  Railroad. — This 
road  is  really  a  continuation  of  the  Utah  Cen- 
tral. It  was  begun  on  the  1st  day  of  May, 
1871,  and  completed  to  Sandy  that  same  year. 
In  1872  it  was  extended  to  Lehi,  about  thirty 
miles  from  Salt  Lake  City.  In  1873  it  was  ex- 
tended to  Provo,  and  its  present  terminus  is 
at  Frisco,  an  important  mining  center  in 
southern  Utah.  It  will  probably  be  extended 
from  a  hundred  to  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles 


the  present  year.  Frisco  is  two  hundred  and 
forty-two  miles  irom  Salt  Lake  City,  and  some 
fifty  miles  from  the  eastern  line  of  Nevada. 
The  stockholders  of  the  Union  Pacific  Koad 
own  a  controlling  interest  in  this,  as  also  in 
the  Utah  Central.  It  will  probably  be  ex- 
tended to  the  Pacific  Coast.  The  great  bulk 
of  its  business  is  between  Salt  Lake  City  and 
Sandy,  though  travel  and  traffic  are  gradu- 
ally increasing  on  the  balance  of  its  line,  and 
will  rapidly  double  up  as  soon  as  the  road  shall 
have  reached  the  rich  mining  districts  in  the 
southern  portions  of  Utah.  Its  general  di- 
rection is  southward  from  Salt  Lake  City,  up 
the  Jordan  Valley  to  the  Valley  of  Lake  Utah, 
and  thence  across  the  divide  as  before  men- 
tioned. The  giant  peaks  of  the  great  Wahsatch 
range  lie  close  along  the  road  on  the  east,  so 
that  the  traveler  has  an  unending  panorama 
of  lake,  valley  and  river  on  one  hand, 
and  of  the  snow-covered  mountain  sum- 
mits and  timbered  foot-hills  on  the  other. 
Travelers  visiting  this  Territory  should  not  fail 
to  visit  the  towns,  valleys  and  mountains  on  this 
line  of  road.  The  Valley  of  Lake  Utah  espe- 
cially, entirely  surrounded  by  mountains  lofty  and 
rugged,  will  compare  favorably,  so  far  as  magnifi- 
cent scenery  is  concerned,  with  anything  of  a 
similar  character  to  be  found  either  in  Europe 
or  America.  Leaving  Salt  Lake  City,  we  slowly 
pass  through  the  limits  of  the  corporation  where 
cultivated  fields  and  gardens,  with  farm  houses 
and  fine  orchards  of  all  kinds  of  fruit  trees, 
giving  evidences  of  thrift  on  every  side,  greet 
our  gaze.  Streams  of  water  are  constantly  run- 
ning through  the  irrigating  ditches,  and  the 
contrast  between  the  cultivated  lands  and  the 
sage  brush  deserts,  sometimes  side  by  side,  is 
wonderful.  On  our  left,  the  everlasting  mount- 
ains, with  their  crowns  of  snow  almost  always 
visible,  stand  like  an  impenetrable  barrier  to  ap- 
proaches from  the  east,  or  like  eternal  finger- 
boards, and  say  as  plainly  as  words  can  indicate 
— "  go  south  or  north ;  you  cannot  pass  us."  On 
the  right,  the  river  Jordan  winds  its  way  to  the 
waters  of  the  great  inland  sea,  while  beyond, 
towering  into  the  sky,  are  the  peaks  of  the 
Oquirrh  Range.  You  will  need  to  keep  your 
eyes  wide  open,  and  gaze  quickly  upon  the 
rapidly  changing  scenes  as  they  come  into  view, 
or  swiftly  recede  from  your  vision;  for,  between 
the  scenes  of  nature  and  the  works  of  man  in 
reclaiming  this  desert,  you  will  hardly  know 
which  to  admire  the  most,  or  which  is  the  most 
worthy  of  your  attention. 

The  following  are  stations  and  distances  from 
Salt  Lake  City:— 

Little  Cottonwood 7  miles. 

Junction 12      " 

Sandy 13      " 

Draper , 17      " 

Lehi..  ...31      " 


139 


American  Fork 34  miles. 

Pleasant  Grove 37 

Provo 48 

Bpringville 53 

Spanish  Fork 58 

Payson 66 

Santaquin 71 

York 75 

Little  Cottonwood, — 7  miles  from  the  city. 
It  is  a  way  station  at  which  trains  do  not  stop 
unless  nagged,  or  the  signal  is  given  from  on 
board  the  train.  All  the  canons  and  ravines  in 
the  mountains  supply  more  or  less  water,  which 
is  gathered  into  canals  and  distributed  through 
ditches  as  re- 
quired for  the 
fields,  meadows 
and  orchards. 
The  well  culti- 
vated fields  con- 
tinue until  we 
arrive  at 

Junction, — 
12  miles  from 
Salt  Lake  City, 
where  the  Bing- 
ham  Canon  & 
Camp  Floyd 
Railroad  inter- 
sects the  Utah 
Southern.  Pas- 
sengers here 
change  cars  for 
Bingham  Canon 
and  the  mining 
districts  in  that 
vicinity.  This 
road  i  s  about 
twenty-two 
miles  long  and 
i  s  extensively 
used  in  trans- 
porting ore,  bull- 
ion, coke,  coal 
and  charcoal  to 
and  from  the 
mines  and 
smelting  works 
and  railroad.  It 
feet)  road  and  is  now  doing  a  fine^business. 

Sandy, — 13  miles  from  the  city  and  the  point 
of  intersection  of  the  Wahsatch  &  Jordan  Val- 
ley Railroad, — narrow  gauge  (three  feet).  This 
road  turns  off  to  the  left  and  goes  up  Little 
Cottonwood  Canon,  which  can  now  plainly  be 
seen  from  the  cars.  The  Big  Cottonwood  Canon 
is  also  in  sight.  There  they  are,  with  the  mount- 
ain of  silver  between  them.  There  is  silver 
enough  in  that  mountain  to  pay  the  national 
debt  of  the  United  States,  with  enough  left  to 
pay  for  a  huge  fourth  of  July  celebration.  This 
road  has  some  very  heavy  grades,  and,  on  the 


SNOW  SLIDE  MOUNTAIN.— LITTLE  COTTONWOOD  CANON. 


is    a   narrow  gauge    (three 


upper  end  of  it,  horses,  instead  of  engines,  are 
employed  to  haul  the  empty  cars.  These  two 
narrow  gauge  roads  are  now  under  one  manage- 
ment. The  Little  Cottonwood  Road  is  about 
eighteen  miles  in  length.  Sandy  is  a  nourish- 
ing little  town.  It  has  several  smelters,  or 
reduction  works,  where  crude  ore  is  converted 
into  bullion.  The  celebrated  Flagstaff  mine 
has  its  smelting  works  here ;  its  ore  is  brought 
down  from  the  mine  on  the  Wahsatch  &  Jor- 
dan Valley  Railroad.  Every  visitor  to  Utah, 
who  is  at  all  interested  in  mines,  or  metal- 
lurgy, will  obtain  a  great  deal  of  informa- 
tion, and  be  amply  repaid  for  the  time  and  ex- 
pense of  a  visit 
to  its  more  cele- 
brated mining 
districts.  A 
visit  to  the  Bing- 
ham and  Little 
Cottonwood  Dis- 
tricts, certainly 
should  not  be 
neglected.  Leav- 
ing Sandy,  we 
enter  into  a  des- 
ert country 
again ;  the  f arm- 
houses  are  scat- 
tering, though 
the  land  on  the 
right,  toward 
the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the 
Jordan,  is  still 
pretty  well  set- 
tled. The  next 
station  is 

Urfiperi'itte, 
— 17  miles  from 
Salt  Lake  City. 
It  is  an  unim- 
portant station, 
convenient  to  a 
little  Mormon 
settlement. 
Leaving  this  sta- 
tion we  soon 
cross  South  Willow  Creek,  and  then  follow  the 
outer  rim  of  the  hills  around  the  valley  toward 
the  right,  like  a  huge  amphitheatre.  We  have 
been  going  up  hill,  and,  as  we  turn  to  the  right, 
to  get  through  a  pass  or  gorge  in  the  mount- 
ains, the  valley  below  us  with  Sandy,  Salt 
Lake  City,  Salt  Lake  itself,  its  islands,  the 
mountains  beyond  and  a  vast  scope  of  country 
is  suddenly  unmlled,  like  a  beautiful  panorama, 
to  our  view  —  a  magnificent  spectacle  which 
never  fails  to  excite  and  satisfy  the  beholder. 
Turning  to  the  left  again,  we  near  the  narrows, 
and,  looking  to  the  right,  the  river  Jordan 
winds  along  beneath  us ;  then,  passing  through 


140 


a  deep  cut,  we  suddenly  emerge  into  the 
valley  of  Lake  Utah,  and  at  once  become  en- 
chanted with  the  lovely  view  now  spread  out  be- 
fore us.  The  valley,  cities  and  towns  we  have 
just  left,  are  entirely  shut  out  from  our  vision, 
and,  in  their  stead,  new  wonders  invite  our  at- 
tention. There  is  Lake  Utah,  with  little  villages 
and  settlements  between  its  shores  and  the  base 
of  the  mountains,  and  those  mountains  thou- 
sands of  feet  in  height,  piercing  the  very  clouds, 
around  it.  With  an  elevation  about  500  feet 
higher  than  that  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  it 
lies  nestled  down  among  the  lofty  peaks,  as 
though  it  would  hide  its  beauty  and  shun  the 
gaze  of  the  outside  world.  But  iron  arms  have 
forced  their  way  through  the  rugged  denies,  and 
now  hold  it  in  long  and  lasting  embrace. 
Henceforth  it  will  receive  the  homage  of  thou- 
sands, and  become  a  place  of  worship  to  the 
multitudes  who  shall  see  in  it  and  its  surround- 
ings, the  Mecca  of  their  pilgrimages — the  grati- 
fication of  their  desires  and  the  satisfaction  of 
every  hope.  This  is  strong  language,  and  the 
tourist  himself  shall  be  the  judge  of  its  truth- 
fulness. This  lake  is  virtually  the  head  of  the 
river  Jordan.  It  winds  its  way,  like  a  ribbon  of 
silver,  through  the  valley,  passes  through  the 
gorge  we  have  entered  and  becomes  lost  to  view. 
Down  into  the  valley  of  the  lake  we  go  and  ar- 
rive at 

Lehi, — the  next  station,  31  miles  from  the 
City  of  the  Saints.  It  is  located  on  Dry  Canon 
Creek,  though  the  creek  furnishes  water  suffi- 
cient to  irrigate  the  thrifty  farms  bordering  the 
little  village.  A  large  portion  of  the  bottom- 
lands around  the  lake  are  cultivated  and  irrigated 
with  the  water  that  flows  down  the  mountain 
streams. 

American  Fork, — 34  miles  from  Salt  Lake 
City,  is  now  reached.  It  is  named  from  the 
creek  and  canon  back  of  the  town,  which  has 
cleft  the  mountains  in  twain,  and  left  on  their 
ragged  edges  the  marks  of  the  heroic  and  victo- 
rious struggle.  From  this  town  another  narrow 
gauge  railroad  has  been  built  up  the  canon  to 
Deer  Creek,  some  twelve  miles,  to  accommodate 
the  necessities  of  the  mines  which  have  been 
opened  there.  Of  the  grand  scenery  of  this 
noted  canon  we  shall  speak  in  another  place. 
The  town  is  about  six  miles  fi-om  the  mouth 
of  the  canon,  and  has  every  anpearance  of  the 
industry  which  usually  charr"'terizes  Mormon 
towns. 

Pleasant  Grove, — 37  miles  t/on.*  the  citv.  is 
the  next  station.  It  is  a  thriving  larmmg  set- 
tlement, and  similar  to  all  the  little  villages  in 
the  Territory.  It  was  formerly  called  Battle 
Creek  because  of  a  fight  which  early  settlers  had 
with  the  Ute  Indians.  Leaving  Pleasant  Grove 
we  soon  arrive  at 

Provo. — 48  miles  from  Salt  Lake  City,  and 
the  third  town  in  size  in  Utah  Territory,  having 


a  population  of  about  5,000  souls.  After  leaving 
the  last  station,  off  to  the  left,  Provo  Canon  is 
visible,  with  Provo  or  Timpanogos  River  flowing 
through  it.  This  river  rises  in  the  western  spur 
of  the  Uintah  Mountains,  flows  along  the  south- 
ern part  of  Kammas  Prairie  and  then  turns  to  the 
south-west,  entering  what  is  called  Provo  Valley, 
which  lies  east  of  the  range  of  mountains  on  our 
left,  and  finally  cutting  through  this  range  into 
the  valley  of  Lake  Utah.  Observe,  as  you  ap- 
proach the  town,  how  the  strata  of  rocks  in  the 
mountains  on  each  side  of  the  canon  dip  toward 
each  other.  An  immense  body  of  water  flows 
down  this  river,  annually — more  than  passes 
through  the  river  Jordan,  the  surplus  being 
taken  up  by  evaporation  or  drank  by  the 
thirsty  soil.  We  cross  the  river  as  we  ap- 
proach the  town,  and  for  the  first  time  since 
leaving  Salt  Lake,  see  small  bodies  of  timber, 
mostly  cottonwood,  arid  a  thick  undergrowth  of 
brush,  etc. 

The  Utah  and  Pleasant  Valley  Railway  (nar- 
row gauge)  here  connects  with  the  Utah  South- 
ern. This  narrow  gauge  line  has  recently  been 
purchased  by  the  Denver  and  Bio  Grande 
Eailway  Company,  to  be  used  in  connection 
with  the  Utah  trunk  line  that  corporation 
is  now  building  westward  from  Denver.  The 
Utah  and  Pleasant  Valley  is  completed  some 
sixty  miles  east  of  Provo  to  the  Pleasant  Valley 
coal  fields,  and  is  being  rapidly  extended. 

Sporting. — Between  the  town  and  lake  are 
low  marshes  and  meadows  which  render  this 
place  a  paradise  for  ducks,  which  fact  the  sports- 
man will  do  well  to  note.  The  streams  which 
flow  into  the  lake,  abound  in  fish,  and  the  lake 
itself  is  full  of  trout,  chub,  suckers,  etc.  It  is 
no  unfrequent  matter  to  catch  trout  here  weigh- 
ing from  seven  to  ten  pounds,  though  from  two 
to  five  pounds  is  their  usual  weight.  The  trout 
ascend  the  streams  in  the  proper  season  to  de- 
posit their  spawn ;  the  suckers  follow  to  devour 
it,  and  sometimes  they  almost  choke  the  river,  so 
vast  are  they  in  numbers,  and  are  caught  in 
large  quantities.  The  streams  sometimes  fall  so 
rapidly  that  they  are  left  in  shallow  places  and 
die  there  as  the  water  recedes.  Measures  should 
be  taken  to  prevent  this  wholesale  raid  on  the 
spawn  of  the  trout,  or  it  will  soon  be  des- 
troyed— at  least  materially  lessened.  If  the 
suckers  are  masters  of  the  situation,  so  far  as  the 
spawn  is  concerned,  the  reverse  holds  true  with 
the  trout  in  the  lake,  for  there  they  attack  the 
suckers  without  mercy,  and  the  old  adage  that 
"  the  big  fish  eat  the  little  ones,"  proves  liter- 
ally true.  •  It  is  evident  that  the  young  suck- 
ers are  highly  relished  by  the  larger  trout  in  this 
lake. 

The  town  of  Provo  is  regularly  laid  out,  has 
numerous  school-houses,  stores,  grist-mill,  tanner- 
ies, woolen  factory,  etc.  Brigham  Young  has  a 
private  residence  here,  which  he  frequently  visits, 


141 


and  which  is  occupied  by  one  of  his  so-called 
wives.  It  has  finely  cultivated  gardens,  yards, 
orchards  and  small  farms  adjacent. 

Springville — 53  miles  from  Salt  Lake  City. 
The  little  town  lies  at  the  mouth  of  the  canon 
through  which  the  Utah  and  Pleasant  Valley 
R'way  turns  eastward  to  the  extensive  coalfields 
in  Pleasant  "Valley,  some  sixty  miles  east.  This 
coal  possesses  coking  qualities,  and  as  a  large 
amount  of  coke  is  now  imported  from  Pittsburg, 
Pa.,  for  the  use  of  the  numerous  smelting  works 
in  the  Territory,  it.  at  once  becomes  an  object  to 
manufacture  it  nearer  home.  Coke  made  from 
coal  found  in  the  San  Pete  Valley  is  already  ship- 
ped from  this  point.  Still  rounding  the  eastern 
~dm  of  the  valley,  we  soon  arrive  at  the  •uex.t  sta- 
tion, which  is 

Spanish  Fork, — 58  miles  from  Sai_  Lake 
City.  To  the  left,  the  traveler  will  observe  the 
canons  and  gorges  which  have  cut  their  way 
through  the  mountains,  and  the  lofty  peaks  of 
Mount  Nebo,  now  nearly  in  front.  Hobble 
Creek  courses  a  canon  through  the  range  back 
of  Springville,  and  now  Spanish  Fork  does  like- 
wise. There  is  more  of  a  depression  in  the 
mountain,  however,  where  this  river  canons 
through.  It  has  two  main  branches  on  the  other 
side  of  the  range — upon  the  northern,  the  pro- 
posed Denver  Railroad  comes  in,  while  the 
southern  branch  heads  in  the  divide  that  crosses 
San  Pete  Valley,  east  of  Mount  Nebo.  Near 
Wales,  in  this  valley,  coking  coal  has  been  dis- 
covered, ovens  erected,  and  the  manufactured 
article  is  now  delivered  at  Springville,  being 
hauled  nearly  60  miles  by  wagons.  The  pro- 
jected railroad  from  Springville,  will  pass  up  the 
valley  of  the  Spanish  Fork  River.  The  town  is 
located  on  this  river,  a  little  distance  from  the 
road.  We  cross  the  river  soon  after  leaving 
the  station.  A  little  village  called  Pontoun,  is 
seen  on  the  left  at  the  base  of  Mount  Nebo. 

Pat/son, — 66  miles  from  the  City  of  the 
Saints.  Iron  ore  is  shipped  from  here  to  the 
smelters,  where  it  is  used  for  fluxing  purposes  in 
the  reduction  of  ore.  It  is  hauled  some  14  miles 
by  wagons.  It  is  said  to  bear  60  or  65  per  cent, 
of  iron,  and  is  known  as  brown  hematite.  At 
this  station  and  the  next,  ore  and  bullion  are 
hauled  from  the  East  Tintic  Mining  District, 
which  is  about  22  miles  away.  To  our  right,  a 
mountain  rises  from  the  level  plain  around  it, 
while  the  lake  puts  out  an  arm,  as  if  to  clasp  it 
in  fond  embrace.  Between  this  mountain  and 
Mount  Nebo,  the  road  finds  its  way,  and  a  little 
farther  on,  this  arm  of  the  lake  can  be  seen  west 
of  the  mountain. 

Santaquin — is  the  next  station,  71  miles 
from  Salt  Lake  City.  Stage  lines  leave  here 
for  the  Tintic  Mining  District  on  the  west. 
In  one  year  this  station  received  one  million 
tons  of  the  ore.  Here,  as  well  as  at  numerous 
other  stations,  are  noticed  the  large  warehouses 


of  the  Utah  Forwarding  Company,  a  corpora- 
tion which  has  its  chief  office  at  Salt  Lake  City, 
and  does  an  immense  carrying  business,  reach- 
ing out  to  the  farthermost  settlements  and  min- 
ing camps  of  Utah.  The  road  now  passes 
through  a  low  depression  or  valley,  which  di- 
vides the  Wahsatch  and  Oquirrh  Ranges,  and 
across  the  divide  between  Lake  Utah  and  Juab 
Valley,  by  easy  grades,  and  we  soon  arrive  at 

York — 75  miles  from  the  northern  terminus 
and  for  several  years  the  southern  end  of  the 
line,  is  an  unimportant  station  since  the  Utah 
Southern  has  made  its  long  move  southward. 
Farther  down  the  valley,  streams  from  the 
mountains  come  in,  water  for  irrigation  can 
be  obtained,  and  the  desert,  under  the  manipu- 
lations of  labor,  is  made  to  bud  and  blossom 
as  the  rose.  . 

Nephi — 90  miles,  is  where  the  traveler  passes 
into  a  beautiful  and  highly  cultivated  valley, 
and  beholds  the  towering  form  and  giant  out- 
lines of  Mount  Nebo,  from  the  south.  It  is 
one  of  the  highest  peaks  in  the  Wahsatch 
range  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  its  lofty 
head,  whitened  by  eternal  snows,  is  frequently 
obscured  by  clouds.  The  elevation  of  the 
summit  of  this  mountain  is  given  by  the  En- 
gineer Department  of  the  United  States  Army 
at  11,922  feet.  Nephi  contains  2,000  inhabit- 
ants, and  is  the  point  from  which  stages  leave 
for  San  Pete,  eighty  miles  east. 

Juab— 105  miles  south  of  Salt  Lake  City. 
This  is  the  transfer  point  for  freight  and  pas- 
sengers destined  for  Scipio,  twenty-two  miles; 
Fillmore,  forty-seven  miles,  and  Corn  Creek, 
sixty  miles  to  the  east.  Two  miles  south  of 
Juab  is  Chicken  Lake,  .  known  throughout 
Utah  as  affording  some  of  the  finest  duck- 
hunting  in  the  West.  Deer  are  also  very 
plentiful  in  the  mountains  near  by.  At  Juab 
we  enter  the  Sevier  Desert,  and  four  miles 
south  come  to  Sevier  River.  The  desert  is 
only  fit  for  grazing,  and  the  river  a  sluggish, 
muddy  stream.  The  line  of  the  Utah  South- 
ern and  Castle  Valley  Railroad,  a  broad  gauge 
branch  of  the  Utah  Southern,  is  now  being 
finally  located  from  Juab  southeast  up  Sevier 
River  to  the  Castle  Valley  coal  fields,  eighty- 
five  miles  distant,  and  will  probably  be  built 
before  the  close  of  1881.  The  Utah  Southern 
line  bears  to  the  southwest  from  Juab,  tapping 
several  rich  silver  and  iron  mining  districts, 
and  at  present  (June,  1881)  extends  to  Frisco, 
in  the  heart  of  the  great  Horn  silver  mining 
region,  242  miles  southwest  of  Salt  Lake  City. 
The  line  is  to  be  rapidly  pushed  to  the  south- 
west into  southern  Nevada,  and  eventually  to 
the  Pacific  Coast.  Through  short  connecting 
stage  lines  it  already  makes  Leeds,  St.  George, 
Pioche,  and  all  points  in  southern  Utah  and 
southeastern  Nevada  easily  accessible. 


142 


g     5 

3    « 

a    *• 


RESOURCES  OF  SOUTHERN  UTAH. 

Over  10,000,000  pounds  of  freight  were  sent 
northward  from  the  town  of  York  during  the 
year  1876,  and  the  south-bound  freight  trans- 
portation was  equally  gratifying.  It  will  be 
very  easy  for  one  giving  attention  to  these 
matters  to  see  that  the  railway  here  already 
grasps  at  the  wealth  and  plenty  of  the  great 
Southwest.  It  is  just  at  the  beginning  of  a 
new  and  sunny  empire,  and  needs  but  to  cross 
to  reap  the  full  reward. 

The  people  of  Utah  seem  to  take  greatest 
pride  in  the  southern  portion  of  their  territory, 
and  firmly  believe-  that  all  the  great  trade  of 
that  portion  and  of  the  best  silver  and  gold  re- 
gions of  Nevada  and  Arizona  will  flow  north- 
ward over  their  railroads  to  the  Mormon  capi- 
tal, or,  by  carrying  it  a  little  farther,  that  all  the 
southern  borders  there  will  certainly  be  made 
tributary  to  the  North  and  East  by  the  exten- 
sions of  the  Utah  Southern  Railway,  rather 
than  to  the  western  and  southwestern  coast. 
With  sufficient  deference  to  Pacific  slope  enter- 
prise, we  all  realize  that  the  Eastern  commercial 
centers  supply  the  continent.  The  greater  part 
of  merchandise,  mining  supplies,  etc. ,  for  the 
miners  of  southern  Nevada,  formerly  went  300 
miles  westward  past  Salt  Lake  City,  then  south 
Tby  indirect  roads,  for  from  250  to  400  miles  more. 
Instead  of  going  westward  from  Ogden  900  miles 
to  the  Pacific  coast,  and  then  southeastward  800 
miles  more  to  the  Arizona  settlements,  by  lines 
now  established,  the  travel  or  freight  traffic 
will  turn  directly  southward  via  the  Utah 
Central  and  Utah  Southern  Branch  of  the 
Union  Pacific,  and  reach  the  same  points  in  a 
thousand  miles  less  of  distance.  Indicating 
the  directness  and  other  natural  advantages  of 
this  route  is  the  fact  that  the  government  has 
already  established  mail  service  from  St.  George, 
in  southern  Utah,  southward  along  the  Colo- 
rado river,  to  Hardyville,  Camp  Mohave,  Eh- 
renburg,  and  Yuma,  in  Arizona. 

Large  quantities  of  cotton  are  already  pro- 
duced uuder  the  warm  skies  of  southern  Utah, 
and  manufactured  into  the  coarser  fabrics  by 
the  same,  unskilled  hands  which  till  the  fields. 
Tobacco,  rice,  almonds,  pomegranates,  figs, 
grapes,  madder  and  indigo,  with  most  cereals 
and  vegetables,  are  among  other  leading  pro- 
ductions in  this  favored  clime.  The  valleys 
are  not  very  extensive,  as  a  rule,  but  are  nu- 
merous and  exceedingly  fertile.  Stock-raising 
has  become  an  important  branch  of  industry. 
Washington  and  Kane  counties  are  small  king- 
doms in  themselves,  taking  up  nearly  all  the 
territory  known  as  "Southern  Utah."  They 
contain  about  fifty  towns  and  settlements, 
which  are  noted  for  their  fine  fruits  and  manu- 
factures of  woolen  and  cotton  yarns  and  fabrics, 
leather,  boots  and  shoes,  syrups,  wines,  raisins, 
castor  anU  other  oils  and  medicines.  About 


every  shade  of  temperature  and  climate  is 
represented  in  the  different  localities,  from 
114°  in  the  shade  to  icicles  iix  midsummer. 
Hunting  is  excellent  everywhere  in  the  moun- 
tains, and  trout  streams  abound  in  all  sections. 
Among  the  nooks  rich  in  natural  attractions  is 
Little  Zion  Valley,  which  lies  near  the  north 
fork  of  the  Eio  Virgin  River,  and  a  few  miles 
east  of  the  St.  George  Stage  Line.  The  ad- 
mirable view  on  another  page  is  only  one  of 
the  hundreds  equally  beautiful  to  be  obtained 
in  that  romantic  locality.  Rockville  and  Zion 
are  the  nearest  villages  of  note,  and  can  easily 
be  reached  from  Bellevue  and  other  points  on 
the  stage  road. 

Mining  along  this  southwestern  route  is  an 
industry  which  must  assume  great  proportions 
in  the  very  near  future.  Silver  ores  are  found 
in  the  mountains  on  the  right  at  almost  every 
step. 


AMERICAN  FORK  CANON. 

Of  this  canon,  no  less  a  writer  than  the  late 
Charles  Kingsley,  Canon  of  the  English  Church 
in  London,  England,  has  given  the  most  enthusi 
astic  expression,  and  declares  it  "  The  rival  of  the 
Yosemite." 

It  is  by  far  the  most  wonderful  of  all  the  canons 
which  are  within  convenient  access  to  the  Pacific 
Railroad,  and  tourists  who  value  sights  of  grand- 
eur and  sublime  rock  scenery,  must  not  omit  it 
in  their  overland  tour.  In  interest,  beauty,  and 
as  a  delightful  pleasure  trip,  it  will  surpass  either 
Echo,  Weber,  or  Humboldt  Canons,  and  not  a 
little  of  the  joy  is  attributable  to  the  novel  mode 
of  ascent  and  descent. 

Taking  the  cars  of  the  Utah  Southern  Rail- 
road at  Salt  Lake  City,  proceed  southward  to 
American  Fork  Station ;  there  a  little  train  is  in 
waiting  with  narrow  gauge  cars  and  locomotive. 
If  the  party  is  large  enough  for  a  picnic,  so  much 
the  better,  as  often  flat  cars  are  added,  neatly 
trimmed  with  evergreen  boughs.  The  railroad, 
after  leaving  the  station  turns  directly  toward 
the  mountain  range,  and  gradually  ascends  for 
the  first  six  miles,  a  steady  grade  of  200  feet  to- 
the  mile,  until  just  before  the  mouth  of  the  can- 
on it  reaches  296  feet.  Nothing  can  describe  the 
apparent  desolation  of  sage  brush  and  dry  sterile 
appearance  of  the  soil,  but  here  and  there  where- 
ever  the  little  mountain  brook  can  be  diverted 
from  its  course,  and  its  water  used  to  irrigate  the 
land,  the  richest  of  fruit  trees,  grass  and  grain 
spring  up  and  give  abundant  crops.  The  little 
stream,  with  its  rapid  fall,  follows  us  up  the 
entire  length  of  the  canon.  The  upward  ascent 
of  the  grade  seems  hardly  noticeable,  of  so  uni- 
form a  slope  is  the  surface  of  the  country,  and  it 
is  not  till  the  base  of  the  mountains  is  reached, 
and  the  tourist  looks  back,  he  realizes  his  height, 


SCENES  IN  AMERICAN  FORK  CANON. 

L-Mt  Aspinwall,  or  Lone  Mountain.    2.-Rock  Summits.    3.-Picnic  Grove,  Deer  Creek. 
4.— A  quiet  Glen.    6.— Hanging  Rock.    6.— Rock  Narrows. 


145 


and  sees  in  the  distance  the  clear  surface  of  Utah 
Lake  considerably  below  him.  Gathering  now 
on  the  flat  cars — where  the  scenery  can  be  best 
observed — the  little  train  slowly  enters  the  canon. 
Scarcely  500  feet  are  passed  over  before  there 
bursts  upon  the  eye  views  of  rock  scenes  of  the 
most  rugged  character.  The  little  valley  is 
scarcely  100  feet  broad,  and  in  its  widest  part 
not  over  200  feet,  but  from  the  very  track  and  little 
stream,  the  rocks  loom  up  into  heights  of  start- 
ling distinctness  and  almost  perpendicular  ele- 
vation. 

The  color  of  the  rocks  is  uniformly  of  very 
dark  red  and  brown  granite,  apparently  having 
once  been  heated  in  a  terrible  furnace,  and  then 
in  melting  had  arranged  themselves  into  rugged 
and  fantastic  shape  more  than  mortal  could  con- 
ceive. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  canon,  the  rocks  aver- 
age about  800  feet  in  height,  then,  as  the  route 
ascends,  the  sides  become  more  and  more  bold 
and  erect, — the  height  greater,  and  the  summits 
sticking  up  in  jagged  points  seem  like  heaven- 
reaching  spires, — often  1,500,  2,000,  and  2,500 
feet  above  the  observer. 

No  pen  can  picture  the  sensations  of  the  ob- 
server, as  he  passes  slowly  through  these  scenes 
— which  are  constantly  shifting.  Each  turn  in 
the  road  brings  forward  some  new  view,  more 
entrancing  than  the  last, — and  on  either  side, 
front  and  rear,  the  vision  is  superb  in  the  high- 
est degree.  We  could  not  term  these  scenes 
better  than  to  call  them  "  Rock  Kaleidoscopes" 
For  in  this  short  distance  of  12  miles,  there  is  a 
constant  succession  of  castellated  heights,  titanic 
monsters,  spires,  rock  mountains  of  increasing 
height,  sublime  form  and  piercing  altitudes, 
meeting  us,  crossing  our  path,  and  shooting  up 
above  and  around  us  the  entire  distance, — it 
seems  like  a  succession  of  nature's  castles,  far 
more  rugged  and  picturesque  than  the  castle 
covered  rocks  of  the  Rhine.  Rocks  of  endless 
form  and  beauty,  vistas  of  rocks,  sky  tower- 
ing summits,  bold  crags,  and  flinty  points  jut- 
ting out  from  the  mountain  sides  in  most  profuse, 
rugged,  yet  charming  positions  and  combina- 
tions, that  those  eyes  which  once  had  no  admira- 
tion for  rocks — here  confess  with  extreme  en- 
thusiasm, that  there  is  beauty  beyond  the  wildest 
imaginations. 

While  passing  upward,  the  train  is  very  slow, 
scarcely  passing  more  than  four  or  six  miles  per 
hour, — the  traveler  will  see  some  rocks  of  curious 
formations  at  the  left  hand,  about  one-third  of 
the  way  up;  on  the  summit  of  one  of  the 
highest  crags,  will  be  seen  a  sharp-pointed  rock, 
and  in  it  a  large  distinct  hole,  through  which  can 
be  seen  the  sky  beyond.  The  contrast  of  the 
dark  brown  rock,  and  the  clear  blue  of  the  sky  is 
intense.  This  is  familiarly  called  the  Devil's 
Eye. 

Farther  up,  the  track  passes  under  the  jutting 


edge  of  a  rock  mountain  with  a  sharply  cut 
alcove  in  its  base.  This  is  Hanging  Rock — the 
roof  of  the  rock  which  projects  over  the  railroad, 
being  about  20  feet  outward. 

Near  the  upper  part  of  the  canon,  just  before 
reaching  the  junction  of  two  little  valleys,  the 
track  reaches  a  huge  rock  mountain  overlooking 
a  little  wilderness  of  trees  and  vegetation,  in  the 
center  of  which  is  located  the  Old  Mill.  It  is 
now  entirely  useless,  once  used  for  sawing  timber 
and  ties  for  the  railroad,  but  though  it  has  left 
its  field  of  usefulness  behind, — it  has  remained 
to  add  a  far  more  important  help  to  art.  The 
scene  as  viewed  in  our  illustration,  is  one  consid- 
ered the  most  lovely  and  picturesque,  not  only  of 
the  entire  canon,  but  also  of  all  the  Territory.  In 
all  that  grand  reach  of  country,  of  2,000  miles 
from  Omaha  to  the  Sierras,  not  a  single  view  is 
the  equal  of  this  delightful  scene  of  the  Old 
Mill.  The  dense  growth  of  trees,  the  rippling 
water,  the  bold  rock  at  the  side,  the  soft  shades 
of  Mght  in  the  distance,  the  luxuriant  bushes 
alonj?  the  stream,  and  the  little  silent  deserted 
mill,  situated  exactly  in  the  most  beautiful  site, 
makt.  up  a  view  which  artists  of  keenest  taste 
admit  'vith  rapture  is  unparalleled  in  beauty. 

Beyord  this,  as  the  track  ascends  the  canon, 
it  is  bordered  with  more  shrubbery  and  trees, — 
and  the  rock  views  partially  ceasing — the  tourist 
will  find  h's  best  vision  looking  backward,  with 
a  good  view  "»f  the  tallest  mountain  of  the  canon, 
Lone  Mountai~>,  or  Mount  Aspinwa.ll. 

At  last  the  end  of  the  track  is  reached  at  Deer 
Creek,  though  the  canon  continues  six  miles  or 
more  to  the  Silver  Lake  Mine.  At  Deer  Creek, 
there  is  a  little  village  with  a  comfortable  inn 
and  store,  and  a  large  collection  of  charcoal 
kilns.  This  business  is  quite  large,  there  being 
ten  pits  of  brick,  which  reduce  each  about  1,100 
bushels  of  charcoal,  for  which  the  proprietor 
gets  25  cents  per  bushel, — a  business  of  about 
$50,000  per  year  is  done. 

The  Miller  Mine  has  been  estimated  exceed- 
ingly rich,  and  is  owned  largely  by  New  York 
capitalists,  who  work  it  steadily.  It  is  said  to 
yield,  with  lead,  over  fifty  ounces  of  silver  per 
ton.  The  American  Fork  Railroad  was  built 
originally  to  facilitate  the  carrying  of  ores, 
as  well  as  the  charcoal,  but  the  grandeur  of 
the  scenery  has  given  it  a  celebrity  among 
tourists,  far  beyond  that  of  any  railroad  in 
Utah. 

At  Deer  Creek  is  a  good  hotel,  The  Mountain 
Glen  House,  and  a  lovely  picnic  grove,  pure  spring 
water,  and  for  those  of  good  wind  and  lovers  of  ad- 
venture,— an  opportunity  for  mountain  climbing. 

The  total  length  of  the  canon  to  this  point,  is 
12  miles,  and  the  total  length  of  the  railroad,  i? 
16  miles, — cost  about  $400,000,  and  the  most 
solidly  built  narrow  gauge  railroad  in  the 
United  States.  The  total  ascent  in  elevation 
for  the  whole  railroad,  is  nearly  5,000  feet,  and 


147 


the  average  grade  of  the  railroad  is  200  feet. 
The  maximum  grade  is  296  feet.  This  is  the 
steepest  railroad  grade  in  the  United  States. 

Tourists  who  have  enjoyed  so  fine  and  glori- 
ous a  ride  up  the  canon  hither,  •will  perhaps 
expect  that  the  return  will  be  tame.  They 
will  be  most  pleasantly  surprised  and  disap- 
pointed, for  it  is  the  grandest  of  all  railroad 
scenes  they  will  ever  witness. 

Detaching  the  locomotive  from  the  train,  the 
conductor  stands  at  the  little  brake,  and  with- 
out a  signal  or  help,  the  little  cars  of  the  train 
quietly  start  on  their  downward  journey  alone. 
Gliding  down  with  increasing  speed,  rounding 
the  curves  with  grand  and  swinging  motion, 
the  breeze  fanning  your  face,  and  the  beautiful 
pure  mountain  air  stimulating  your  spirits  to 
the  highest  limits  of  exhilaration,  your  feelings 
and  body  are  in  an  intense  glow  of  delight,  as 
the  rock  scenes,  crags  and  mountain  heights 
come  back  again  in  all  their  sublimity,  and 
your  little  car,  securely  held,  glides  swiftly 
down  the  beautiful  valley.  In  no  part  of  the 
country  is .  there  a  scene  to  be  compared  with 
this.  The  entire  being  is  fascinated,  and 
when,  at  last,  the  little  car  turns  swiftly  into 
the  broad  plain,  the  tourist  feels  he  has  left  be- 
hind him  a  land  of  delight.  The  little  cars 
occupy  but  one  hour  in  making  the  descent, 
and  the  writer  has  made  the  trip  in  forty  min- 
utes. 

NOTE. — Since  the  foregoing  description  was 
written,  the  railroad  has  been  discontinued, 
but  the  tourist  can  visit  it  by  horse  from 
American  Fork  or  Alta. 

Lake  Utah. — This  beautiful  sheet  of  water 
lies  between  the  Oquirrh  and  Wahsatch  ranges 
of  mountains.  These  ranges  and  their  foot 
hills  come  closely  together  between  Drapers- 
ville  and  Lehi,  and  the  River  Jordan  cuts 
through  them  there  in  a  narrow  gorge  or  canon. 
The  lake  and  valley  then  suddenly  burst  upon 
the  view  of  the  traveler,  and  admiration  grows 
into  enthusiasm  as  he  contemplates  the  lovely 
picture  before  him.  The  lake  is  about  thirty 
miles  long  and  six  miles  wide,  is  triangular  in 
shape,  and  composed  of  fresh  water.  Its  ele- 
vation is  about  4,482  feet,  or  nearly  300  feet 
greater  than  that  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  The 
railroad  goes  around  the  eastern  side  of  the 
lake,  turning  an  obtuse  angle  at  or  near  Provo. 
The  lake  is  fed  by  Provo  River,  American  Fork, 
Hobble,  Spanish  Fork,  Peteetneet,  Salt  and  a 
few  other  small  creeks.  Its  outlet  is  the  Eiver 
Jordan,  which  empties  into  Great  Salt  Lake, 
and  supplies  water  for  irrigating  the  numerous 
farms  in  its  valley.  As  before  stated,  the  lake 
abounds  in  fish,  and  on  its  eastern  and  northern 
sides  has  a  large  quantity  of  arable  land.  Its 
western  shore  is  not  very  well  watered,  only 
one  or  two  little  creeks  putting  down  into  it 
from  the  Oquirrh  range  of  mountains.  It  is 


well  worthy   of   a  visit  from  the  tourist    or 
sportsman. 

The  Utah  Western  Railroad. — This 
road  was  first  chartered  on  the  15th  of  June, 

1874,  with  a  capital  stock  of  §900,000.     The 
company  was  mostly  composed  of  Utah  men 
having  their  residence  in  Salt  Lake  City;  John 
W.  Young,  a  son  of  Brigham  Young,  being 
President,  while  Heber  P.  Kimball  was  Superin- 
tendent.    It  has,  however,  recently  passed  into 
the  hands  of  the  Utah  Central,  and  will  hence- 
forth be  operated  as  a  branch  of  that  line. 
The  same  year  it  was  chartered,  twelve  miles 
were  completed  and  opened  for  business  on  the 
12th  day  of  December,  and  on  the  1st  of  April, 

1875,  it  was  completed  to  Half- Way  House, 
thirteen  miles  farther.     Another  extension  of 
fourteen  miles  was  completed  in  1877.     This 
last  extension  carried  the  road  to  within  one 
and  a  half  miles  of  Stockton,   a  prosperous 
mining    town    on    the  western  slope    of  the 
Oquirrh  range  of  mountains.     Its  business  on 
thirty-seven  miles  of  completed  road  for  1880 
was  as  follows:    Freights  received,  10,781,854 
Ibs.;    freights    forwarded,    7,958,839  Ibs.      It 
carried  25,000  passengers  in  1880,   of  which 
20,000  were    visitors    to  its  principal  resort, 
Lake  Point.     It  is  a  narrow-gauge  road  (three 
feet),  and  has  prospects  for  an  extensive  busi- 
ness in  the  future.     Its  general  route  is  west- 
ward until  it  passes  the  southernmost  point  of 
the  Great  Salt  Lake,  and  then  southward  along 
the  western  base  of  the  Oquirrh  range,  and 
into  the  rich  mining  districts  which  have  been 
developed  on  the  western  slope  of  tnose  moun- 
tains.    Leaving  Salt  Lake   City,   on  a  heavy 
downward  grade  of  ninety -five  feet  to  the  mile, 
but  which  is  short,  the  road  crosses  the  River 
Jordan  on  a  common  pile  bridge.     Near  the 
outskirts  of  the  city,  the  road  enters  a  stretch 
of  uncultivated  prairie  twelve  miles  wide  by 
about  fifty  long.     Herds  of  cattle  and  sheep 
alone  utilize  these  rich  bottom  lands,  as  some- 
thing has  prevented  such  a  lavish  use  of  water 
for  irrigation  as  we  saw  almost  everywhere  else 
in  the  Territory.     We  were  informed  that  canals 
could  easily  be  led  from  Utah  Lake,  or  the  Jor- 
dan, over  all  this  broad  area,  and  no  doubt  such 
enterprises  will  soon  be  under  way.    This  plain 
or  flat,  sometimes  thickly   covered  with  sage 
brush,  is  the  "jack  "  rabbit's  paradise.     About 
every  sage  bush  claims  its  rabbit,  or  vice  versa. 

Millstone  Point  is  near  the  base  of  the 
mountains,  and  eleven  and  a  half  miles  from 
Salt  Lake  City.  This  place  is  named  from  the 
fact  that  the  first  millstones  used  in  grinding 
grain  in  Utah  were  quarried  from  the  moun- 
tains near  this  point.  The  old  overland  stage 
road  from  Salt  Lake  City  to  California  passes 
along  the  line  of  the  road,  as  does  one  line  of  the 
Western  Union  Telegraph  Co.  to  the  present  ter- 
minus of  the  road.  The  station  is  of  no  partic- 


148 


ular  importance,  and  beyond  the  incident  men- 
tioned, is  without  a  history.  We  are  now  at  the 
base  of  the  Oquirrh  Range,  and  the  first  station 
of  the  Old  Stage  Company  where  they  changed 
horses  is  pointed  out  to  the  traveler  on  the  south 
side  of  the  road.  Beyond  Millstone  Point,  about 
two  miles  on  the  south  side  of  the  track,  is  a 
large  spring,  which  furnishes  a  good  supply  of 
water,  and  which  has  been  utilized  by  a  dairy- 
man. A  little  beyond  this  spring  on  the  same 
side  of  the  track,  there  is,  in  the  first  point  of 
rocks,  quite  an  extensive  cave  which  a  shepherd 
uses  as  a  shelter  for  his  sheep,  during  the  inclem- 
ent season  of 
the  year.  A  rail 
fence  with  gate 
surrounds  the 
entrance  to  the 
cave,  and  it  is 
said  to  be  large 
enough  to  turn  a 
four  horse  team 
and  wagon  with- 
o  u  t  difficulty. 
The  extent  of 
the  outer  part  of 
the  cave  is  about 
40  feet,  where  a 
huge  fallen  rock 
precludes  f  u  r  - 
ther  access  with- 
o,u  t  inconven- 
ience. The  lake 
and  its  mount- 
ain islands,  and 
the  ranges  be- 
yond, now  come 
grandly  into 
view  011  the 
north  side  of 
the  track. 
The  next  sta- 
tion is 

Blade  Rock, 
—17  1-2  miles 
from  Salt  Lake 
City, — a  sta- 
tion named  from 
a  rock,  dark 
enough  to  be  called  black,  rising  in  the  lake 
about  100  yards  from  the  shore.  It  is  nearly 
flat  on  the  top,  and  with  a  little  effort  can  be 
easily  ascended.  Jutting  out  from  the  shore, 
and  a  short  distance  from  the  station,  is  "  Lion's 
Head"  Rock.  Beyond  this  is  "Observation 
Point,"  from  which  the  Goose  Creek  Mountains, 
145  miles  north,  can  be  seen  in  a  clear  day,  with 
their  white  peaks  glistening  in  the  sunlight. 
The  northern  point  of  the  Oquirrh  Range  here 
comes  close  to  the  lake,  and  what  seems  to  be  a 
few  scattering  trees,  or  groves  of  trees,  high  up 
on  the  mountain,  contain  millions  of  feet  of  pine 


LIONS  HEAD  EOCK. — CHEAT  SALT    LAKE. 


lumber,  if  it  could  only  be  made  available. 
Right  under  "  Observation  Point,"  on  the  very 
edge  of  the  lake  shore  stands  a  stone  house, 
formerly  kept  as  a  hotel  for  pleasure  seekers,  but 
now  the  private  property  of  John  W.  Young, 
Esq.  Whoever  occupies  it  hereafter,  can  very 
nearly  be  "  rocked  in  the  cradle  of  the  deep,"  or, 
at  least,  be  lulled  to  sleep  by  the  murmur  of  the 
restless  waves.  Standing  upon  "  Observation 
Point,"  before  you,  a  little  to  the  left,  rises  the 
rock  from  which  the  station  is  named ;  beyor  d 
and  to  the  left  still,  Kimball's  Island  rises  out  of 
the  sea  twenty-two  miles  away ;  while  off  to  tl  ie 

right  is  Churuh 
Island,  14  miles 
away :  they  do 
not  look  half  the 
distance,  bat 
the  rarified  at- 
m  o  s  p  h  e  r  e  of 
these  elevated 
portions  of  the 
Continent  is 
very  deceptive 
as  regards  vision 
and  distance. 
Promontory 
Point  on  the 
north  shore 
of  the  lake  is 
also  visible  at  a 
distance  of 
about  eighty 
miles. 

Lake  Point, 
— 20  miles  from 
the  city  is  the 
next  station  and 
the  great  resort 
for  excursion 
parties  and  tour- 
ists  in  the  sum- 
mer. Near  this 
station  is  "  Gr- 
ant's Cave"  from 
which  stalactites 
may  be  obtain- 
ed, and  other 
relics,  said  to  be 
remains  of  Indians  who  were  conquered  and 
penned  in  until  they  died.  A  personal  exam- 
ination will  satisfy  the  tourist  as  to  the  proba- 
ble truth  of  this  tradition.  The  company  has  a 
large  hotel  at  Lake  Point  containing  35  rooms 
for  guests,  besides  other  necessary  appurtenances 
to  a  good  hotel.  A  wharf  has  been  built  into 
the  lake,  beside  which,  when  not  employed,  the 
stern  wheel  steamer,  "  General  Garfield,"  is 
moored.  This  steamer  is  employed  for  excur- 
sion parties  and  for  transporting  ore  from  the 
islands,  and  the  west  side  of  the  lake,  to  the 
railroad.  A  bathing-house  has  been  erected  on 


149 


the  wharf,  where  conveniences  for  a  salt  water 
bath  are  kept.  The  waters  of  the  lake  are  very 
dense,  and  it  is  almost  impossible  for  bathers  to 
sink.  In  former  times  three  barrels  of  water 
would  make  by  evaporation,  one  barrel  of  salt ; 
now  four  barrels  of  water  are  required  to  effect 
the  same  result.  A  company  has  been  organized 
in  Salt  Lake  City,  to  manufacture  salt  from  the 
waters  of  this  lake  near  Millstone  Point,  and 
vats  are  to  be  erected  the  present  year.  An  ex- 
cellent quality  can  be  made  and  sacked— ready 
for  market  for  f  4.50  per  ton. 

Half -Way  House — 25  miles  from  Salt 
Lake  City,  and  Tooele  Station  37  miles  are 
the  next  stations  and  termini  of  the  road. 
Grantville  is  one  of  the  richest,  agricultural 
towns  of  Utah.  Stages  leave  here  for  the  min- 
ing camps  on  the  western  slope  of  the  moun- 
tains, and  a  large  amount  of  freighting  is  done, 
with  teams  to  and  from  the  mines.  The 
station  may  lose  its  importance  at  no  very 
far  distant  date.  There  are  large  springs 
of  fresh  water  near  the  station,  which  sup- 
ply a  flouring  mill  and  woolen  factory 
with  power.  On  the  left  side  of  the  track, 
before  you  reach  the  station,  is  "E.  T. 
City " — the  initials  being  those  of  E.  T. 
Benson,  who  was  interested  in  the  town. 
It  is  simply  a  settlement  of  Mormon  far- 
mers, nestled  under  the  mountains.  The 
woolen  factory  alluded  to  is  a  long,  low 
stone  structure,  with  approved  modern  ma- 
chinery, about  one  and  three-fourth  miles 
from  the  station,  north  of  the  track.  This 
route  must  prove  very  attractive  to  trav- 
elers, and  one  which  will  amply  reward 
them  in  the  pleasures  it  will  afford. 
The  rich  mining  districts  of  Bush  Valley, 
Ophir  and  others,  are  reached  by  this  line 
of  road. 

Social  Life  Among  the  Mormons. — Be- 
yond the  limits  of  Salt  Lake  City  the  uniform 
character  of  Mormon  families  is  of  exceeding 
plain  ways  of  living,  almost  all  being  of  very 
modest  means,  and  even  poor.  What  the  better 
families  have  gained  has  been  by  the  hardest 
and  most  persistent  labor.  It  is  said  that  when 
the  city  was  first  settled,  there  was  not  found 
over  $1,000  in  cash  for  the  whole  community, 
and  for  a  long  series  of  years  thereafter  money 
was  little  used,  and  the  people  lived  and  paid  for 
their  wants  by  barter,  and  a  writer  facetiously 
says :  "  A  farmer  wishes  to  purchase  a  pair  of 
shoes  for  his  wife.  He  consults  the  shoemaker, 
who  avers  his  willingness  to  furnish  the  same  for 
one  load  of  wood.  He  has  no  wood,  but  sells  a 
calf  for  a  quantity  of  adobes,  the  adobes  for  an 
order  on  the  merchant,  payable  in  goods,  and  the 
goods  and  the  order  for  a  load  of  wood,  and 
straightway  the  matron  is  shod. 

"  Seven  water-melons  purchased  the  price  of  a 


ticket  of  admission  to  the  theater.  He  paid  for 
the  tuition  of  his  children,  seventy-five  cabbages 
per  quarter.  The  dressmaker  received  for  her 
services,  four  squashes  per  day.  He  settled  his 
church  dues  in  sorghum  molasses.  Two  loads  of 
pumpkins  paid  his  annual  subscription  to  the 
newspaper.  He  bought  a  '  Treatise  on  Celestial 
Marriage '  for  a  load  of  gravel,  and  a  bottle  of 
soothing  syrup  for  the  baby,  with  a  bushel  of 
string  beans." 

In  this  way,  before  the  advent  of  the  railroad, 
fully  nine-tenths  of  the  business  of  the  Mormon 
people  was  conducted.  Now  barter  has  given 
place  to  actual  circulation  of  money. 

While  there  is  not  what  may  be  called  dis- 
tress or  abject  poverty  in  any  part  of  the  Mor- 
mon settlements,  yet  with  many,  especially  the 
new  emigrants,  their  means  are  so  limited,  and 
the  labor  so  hard,  it  would  be  exceedingly  dis- 
couraging to  exist,  but  for  the  grand  confidence 
all  have  in  the  joys  to  come  promised  by  their 
religion  and  their  leader. 

Except  in  the  cities  there  is  little  or  no  form 
of  amusement,  and  the  Sabbath  is  mainly  the 
great  day  of  reunion,  when  the  population  turn 
out  en  masse  to  the  Tabernacle  or  other  places  of 
worship. 

In  the  church  services  no  one  knows,  until  the 
speaker  arises,  who  is  to  preach  from  the  pulpit, 
or  what  may  be  the  subject. 

The  subjects  of  sermons,  addresses  and  exhor- 
tations are  as  wide  as  there  are  books.  A  writer 
has  laughingly  said  :  "  In  the  Great  Tabernacle, 
one  will  hear  sermons,  or  advice  on  the  culture  of 
sorghum,  upon  infant  baptism,  upon  the  best 
manure  for  cabbages,  upon  the  perseverance  of 
the  Saints,  upon  the  wickedness  of  skimming 
milk  before  its  sale,  upon  the  best  method  of 
cleaning  water  ditches,  upon  bed-bug  poison, 
upon  the  price  of  real  estate,  upon  teething  in 
children,  upon  the  martyrs  and  persecutions  of 
the  Church,  terrible  denunciations  of  Gentiles 
and  the  enemies  of  the  Mormons,  upon  olive  oil 
as  a  cure  for  measles,  upon  the  ordination  of  the 
priesthood,  upon  the  character  of  Melchisedec, 
upon  worms  in  dried  peaches,  upon  abstinence 
from  plug  tobacco,  upon  the  crime  of  fceticide, 
upon  chignons,  twenty-five-yard  dresses,  upon 
plural  marriages,  etc." 

Portions  of  this  are  doubtless  the  extrava- 
gance of  humor,  yet  it  is  true  every  possible 
thing,  secular  or  spiritual,  is  discussed  from  the 
pulpit  which  the  president  thinks  necessary  for 
the  instruction  of  the  flock.  We  attended  per- 
sonally one  Sunday  a  Sunday-school  celebration 
in  the  Tabernacle,  where  the  exercises  were  en- 
livened with  a  spirited  delivery  of  "  Marco  Boz- 
arris"  "  Gay  Young  Lochinvar,"  the  singing  of 
"  Home,  Sweet  Home,"  and  the  gallery  fronts 
were  decorated  with  gay  mottoes,  of  which  there 
shone  in  great  prominence,  "  Utah's  best  crop, 
children" 


REPRESENTATIVE  MORMONS. 

.  Woodruff.    2.-John  Taylor.    S.-Mayor  Daniel  H.  Wells.    4.-W.  H.  Hooper.    5.-Preaident  Brigham  Younjt. 
6.— Orson  Pratt.    7.— John  Shorn.    8.— George  Q.  Cannon.    9.— Orson  HyUo. 


161 


The  city  Mormons  are  fond  of  the  theater  and 
dancing,  and  as  their  president  is  both  the  owner 
of  the  theater  and  its  largest  patron,  the  Saints 
consider  his  example  highly  judicious  and  ex- 
emplary, so  the  theater  is  crowded  on  all  occa- 
sions. We  were  present,  on  one  occasion,  in  1869, 
when  we  witnessed  over  thirty  of  the  children  of 
one  of  the  Mormons  sitting  in  a  row  in  the 
dr.;ss  circle,  and  the  private  boxes  filled  with  his 
wives.  The  most  striking  event  of  the  evening 
was  when  one  of  the  theatrical  performers  sung 
this  ditty: 

"if  Jim  Fisk's  rat-and-tan,  should  have  a  bull-dog  pup, 
1K>  you  think  Louis  Napoleon  would  try  to  bring  him  up  ?  " 

This  elicited  tremendous  applause,  and  the  per- 
formers, much  to  their  own  laughter  and  aston- 
ishment, had  to  repeat  it. 

A.  few  years  afterward,  in  witnessing  a  large 
body  of  Mormon  children  singing  their  school 
songs — we  noticed  the  end  of  one  of  their  little 
verses : 

"Oh,  how  happy  I  ought  to  be, 
For,  daddy,  I'm  a  Mormon." 

As  justifying  their  amusements,  the  Saints 
thus  say,  through  one  of  their  authorities  : 

"  Dancing  is  a  diversion  for  which  all  men  and 
women  have  a  natural  fondness." 

Dancing  parties  in  the  city  are,  therefore,  quite 
irequent,  and  the  most  religious  man  is  best  en- 
titled to  the  biggest  amount  of  fun.  Hence 
their  religion  should  never  be  dull. 

"  As  all  people  have  a  fondness  for  dramatic 
representations,  it  is  well  to  so  regulate  and  gov- 
ern such  exhibitions,  that  they  may  be  instructive 
arid  purifying  in  their  tendencies.  If  the  best 
poople  absent  themselves,  the  worst  will  dictate 
th  3  character  of  the  exercises." 

Therefore  every  good  Mormon,  who  can  get  a 
little  money,  indulges  in  the  theater. 

The  Relif/iott,  of  the  Mormons. — It  is 
not  the  purpose  of  this  Guide  to  express  opin- 
ions of  the  religious  aspect  of  Mormonism ;  but, 
an  all  visitors  who  come  from  the  East,  seeking 
either  from  curiosity  to  gain  reliable  information, 
or,  having  prejudices,  expect  to  gratify  them 
with  outbursts  of  indignation,  we  can  only  stand 
aloof,  and  explain,  calmly  and  candidly,  a  few 
facts  as  we  have  found  them  by  actual  contact 
and  experience  with  both  Mormons  and  Gen- 
tiles, and  leave  each  reader  to  judge  for  himself 
the  merits  of  this  vexed  question. 

So  thoroughly  and  implicitly  have  the  masses 
of  the  Mormon  people  been  led  by  their  leader, 
that  no  one  must  be  surprised  to  find  that  they 
are  firm  believers  and  obedient  servants  to  all 
t;he  doctrines  and  orders  of  the  Church.  They  be- 
iie.ve  just  as  they  are  told. 

Whatever,  therefore,  there  is  in  their  life, 
character  and  business,  industry  and  enterprise, 
that  is  good  and  praiseworthy,  to  Brigham  Young, 
their  leader,  belongs  the  credit.  But  for  what- 
ever there  is  wicked  in  their  religion,  life,  faith, 


deeds  and  church  work — and  for  whatever  is 
lacking  in  good,  to  the  same  powerful  mind  and 
willful  hand,  belongs  the  fearful  responsibility. 

Whether  Mormonism  be  a  religion  or  not — 
yet  candor  must  confess,  that  if  it  fails  to  give 
and  preserve  peace,  contentment,  purity;  if  it 
makes  its  followers  ignorant,  brutal,  supersti- 
tious, jealous,  abusive,  defiant;  if  it  lack  gen- 
tleness, meekness,  kindness,  courtesy ;  if  it  brings 
to  its  homes,  sadness  and  discontent,  it  cannot  be 
that  true  religion,  which  exists  alone  by  sincere 
trust  in  Christ  and  love  for  heaven.  If  in  all  its 
doctrines,  services,  sermons,  prayers,  praise  and 
church  work,  it  fails  to  give  the  soul  that  seeks 
after  rest,  the  refreshing,  comforting  peace  it 
needs,  it  cannot  be  everlasting. 

Mormonism  has  accomplished  much  in  in- 
dustry, and  perseverance,  in  declaiming  Utah's 
waste  lands  and  barren  plains.  It  has  opened  a 
country,  which  now  is  teeming  with  riches  inex- 
haustible and  untold  wealth  is  coming  to  a 
scene,  once  the  very  type  of  desolation.  We 
give  to  the  Mormons  every  worthy  praise  for 
their  frugality,  temperance  and  hard  labor.  No 
other  class  of  people  would  have  settled  here. 
By  patience  they  have  reclaimed  a  desert, — peo- 
pled a  waste,  developed  hidden  treasures,  have 
grown  in  thrift,  and  their  lives  bear  witness  to 
their  forbearance,  and  complete  trust  and  faith. 

How  The  Mormon  Church  Influences 
Visitors. — The  system  of  polygamy  is  not  the 
only  great  question  which  affects  the  future  of 
Utah.  More  than  all  things  else,  it  is  the  Power 
of  the  Rulers  of  the  Mormon  Church.  It  is  natural 
that  they  should  make  efforts  to  maintain  it  by 
every  use  of  power ;  gentleness  if  that  will  do  the 
work,  coercion  if  not. 

It  is  unfortunate  that  in  the  spiritual  services 
of  the  Church,  they  fail  to  impress  visitors  with 
proper  respect.  Their  sermons,  all  eastern 
travelers  have  uniformly  admitted,  were  remark- 
able in  the  absence  of  spiritual  power.  The 
simple  truths  of  the  Gospel  rarely  ever  are  dis- 
cussed, the  life  of  Christ,  the  Gospel  of  the  New 
Testament,  the  "  Sermon  on  the  Mount  " — the 
Cross  are  all  ignored, — the  Psalms  of  David,  the 
life  of  Daniel,  Solomon,  and  the  work  of  the 
twelve  Apostles  are  rarely  referred  to;  instead, 
visitors  are  compelled  to  listen  to  long  argu- 
ments justifying  Mormonism  and  plural  mar 
riage,  and  expressions  of  detestation  for  then, 
enemies. 

We  heard  three  of  the  elders  talk  at  one  of 
their  Sabbath  meetings,  during  which  the  name 
of  Jesus  Christ  as  the  Saviour  of  the  world,  was 
scarcely  mentioned.  One  talked  of  the  wonder- 
ful conversion  as  he  claimed,  and  baptism  of 
some  Lamanites  (Indians),  not  one  of  whom  to- 
day, can  give  a  single  intelligent  reason  for  the 
course  he  has  adopted.  Another  told  of  the 
time  he  was  a  local  preacher  in  the  East,  of  the 
Methodist  Church,  and  of  the  trials  and  persecu- 


152 


tion  they  had  endured  there.  The  third  was 
quite  belligerent  in  tone,  and  gave  utterance  to 
what  might  possibly  be  interpreted  as  treasonable 
sentiments  against  the  government  of  the  United 
States.  In  the  meantime  the  audience  accepted 
all  that  was  said  with  apparent  relish.  We 
thought  of  the  saying  of  one  of  the  popular 
humorists  of  the  day,  to  the  effect  that  "  if  that 
kind  of  preaching  suits  that  kind  of  people,  it  is 
just  the  kind  of  preaching  that  kind  of  people 
likes."  Their  preachers  will  often  take  a  text 
from  the  sayings  of  the  prophets,  and  give  it  a 
literal  interpretation  that  would  grate  harshly 
upon  orthodox  ears,  while  the  listener  would  be 
amused  at  the  ingenuity  displayed  in  twist- 
ing the  word  of  G«d — making  it  mean  anything 
desired. 

It  is  exceedingly  unfortunate  for  the  cause  of 
the  Mormons,  that  such  exhibitions  of  nature 
are  made,  the  only  result  of  which  is  to  increase 
the  prejudice  of  all  visitors,  and  tend  to  grad- 
ually change  the  minds  of  those  who  would 
gladly  be  cordial,  but  feel  they  can  not.  We 
speak  in  candor;  the  efficacy  of  a  religion  is 
judged  by  its  purity  of  life  and  speech.  A  true 
religion  wins  admiration  from  even  its  enemies. 
But  Mormonism  seems  never  to  have  made  a 
friend  of  an  enemy,  and  Only  returns  even 
deeper  resentment. 

A  religion  which  does  not  do  as  Christ  com- 
manded, "  Pray  for  them  which  persecute  you, 
bless  and  curse  not," — but  treasures  its  resent- 
ments and  fulminates  its  curses  continually — can 
it  be  any  religion  at  all  ? 

Inconsistencies.  —  Another  circumstance, 
one  very  unfortunate  for  the  Mormons,  and  al- 
ways noticed  by  strangers,  is  the  inconsistency 
of  their  history. 

In  the  original,  revelation  to  Joseph  Smith, 
there  was  not  only  no  mention  of  polygamy,  but 
in  the  Book  of  Mormon,  such  a  practice  was 
fiercely  denounced.  In  the  second  chapter  of  the 
Book  of  Mormon,  there  originally  appeared  this 
warning  to  the  Nephites : 

"  Wherefore,  hearken  unto  the  word  of  the  Lord, 
for  there  shall  not  any  man  among  you  have  save  it 
be  one  wife;  and  concubines  he  shall  have  none; 
for  I  the  Lord  God,  delighteth  in  the  chastity  of 
woman." 

The  following  comments  and  arguments  based 
on  the  above,  seem  absolutely  necessary,  and  im- 
possible for  any  one  to  controvert : 

1.  If  Joseph  Smith  wrote  this  under  the  inspira- 
tion of  the  Holy  Spirit,  then  present  Mormon  prac- 
tices and  doctrines,  being  wholly  different,  are  not 
true  nor  worthy  of  confidence. 

2.  If  Joseph  Smith  did  not  write  this  under  the 
inspiration  of  the  Almighty,  then  Joseph  Smith  did 
not  receive  a  true  revelation,  was  not  a  true  Prophet, 
and  what  he  has  written  has  been  entirely  unworthy 
the  confidence  of  his  people. 

3.  If  Mormonism  since  then  has  found  a  new 


revelation  totally  opposed  to  the  first,  then  the  first 
must  have  been  false. 

4.  If  the  first  revelation   was  false,  then   the 
Book  of  Mormon  is  wholly  false  and  unreliable,  and 
Joseph  Smith  was  an  impostor. 

5.  If  the  first  revelation  was  true,  then  (as  the 
decrees  of  the  Almighty  once  given,  never  change), 
the  second  revelation  is  not   true,  nor  ever  was  in- 
spired by  God. 

6.  As  History  proves  that  Joseph  Smith  received 
and  promulgated  both  the  first  and  second  revela- 
tions— as  one  of  these  must  be  false — as  no  Prophet 
could  ever  be  falsely  led,  if  instructed  by  the  Al- 
mighty— it  follows  that  Joseph  Smith  never  received 
a  true   inspiration,   was  not  a  true   Prophet — that 
Mormonism  is  not  a  revealed  religion. 

Another  inconsistency,  fatal  to  the  claims  of 
the  Mormon  religion,  is  the  curious  act  of  Joseph 
Smith  at  Nauvoo.  On  the  12th  of  July,  1843, 
Smith  received  the  new  revelation.  When  it 
was  first  mentioned,  it  caused  great  commotion, 
and  many  rebelled  against  it.  A  few  elders  at- 
tempted to  promulgate  it,  but  so  fierce  was  the 
opposition  that  at  last,  for  peace,  Smith  officially 
made  public  proclamation  against  it  in  the 
Church  paper  as  follows  : 

NOTICE. 

As  we  have  lately  been  credibly  informed 
that  an  elder  of  the  Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of 
Latter  Day  Saints,  by  the  name  of  Hiram 
Brown,  has  been  preaching  polygamy  and  other 
false  and  corrupt  doctrines  in  the  County  of 
Lapeer  and  State  of  Michigan. 

This  is  to  notify  him,  and  the  Church  in  gen- 
eral, that  he  has  been  cut  off  from  the  Church 
for  his  iniquity,  and  he  is  further  notified  to 
appear  at  the  special  conference  on  the  6th  of 
April  next,  to  make  answer  to  these  charges. 

JOSEPH  SMITH,  )  D      •,.      /•  .,     ^»       , 

HYBUM  SMITH]  f  **«*•«*  °f  the  Church. 

QUERY. —  What  is  the  world  to  think  of  a 
religion,  or  a  people,  when  their  Prophet  falsifies 
his  own  record,  and  denies  his  own  revela- 
tion ? 

Subsequent  history  shows  that  in  less  than 
three  years  from  the  publication  of  the  above 
notice,  the  Mormon  leaders  were  living  in  open 
and  undisguised  polygamy. 

Would  a  Prophet  who  ever  received  a  true  revela- 
tion deny  it,  punish  his  followers  for  observing  it,  and 
then  practice  it  for  himself  f 

How  appropriately  the  answer  is  given  to  this 
question  when  one  takes  ,up  the  Mormon  Hymn 
Book,  and  finds  among  its  verses,  used  in  their 
church  services,  the  following  leading  lines : 
1.    "  The  God  that  others  worship  is  not  the  God  for  me." 
2:    "  A  church  without  a  Prophet  is  not  the  church  for  me." 

3.  "A  church  without  Apostles  is  not  the  church  for  me." 

4.  "  The  hope  that  Gentiles  cherish  is  not  the  hope  for  me." 
"  It  has  no  faith  nor  knowledge ;  far  from  it  I  would  be." 

6.    "  The  heaven  of  sectarians  is  not  the  heaven  for  me." 


153 


154 


TIte  Great  Salt  Lake  stretches  off'  north- 
ward eighty  miles,  is  about  fifty  miles  wide, 
and  lies  4,200  feet  above  the  ocean.  The  Oquirrh 
mountains  rise  high  above  the  hotel  just  in  the 
rear  ;  the  west  mountain  range  borders  the  lake 
on  the  west,  and  far  along  the  northeast  shore 
runs  the  grand  Wahsatch  range.  Promontory 
mountains  jut  far  out  into  the  lake  from  the 
north,  the  whole  forming  a  shore-line  of  singu- 
lar beauty  and  magnificence.  Antelope,  Stans- 
bury,  Hat,  Gunnison,  Kimball's,  Carrington, 
and  Church  are  the  principal  islands.  The 
mountains  in  some  of  these  appear  to  belong  to 
the  same  ranges  which  form  the  shore-line,  and 
nearly  all  contain  deposits  of  either  the  precious 
or  base  metals. 

In  many  respects  this  is  the  most  wonderful 
body  of  water  on  the  American  Continent.  It  is 
the  chief  object  of  interest  in  the  physical  geog- 
raphy of  the  great  basin  in  which  it  is  located. 
Its  waters  are  saline  and  brackish,  unfit  for  use, 
and  uninhabited  by  representatives  of  the  finny 
tribes. 

Its  Discovery. — In  his  report  on  this  lake, 
Captain  Stansbury  speaks  of  a  French  explorer, 
with  an  unpronounceable  name,  who  left  the  west- 
ern shores  of  the  great  lakes  sometime  in  the 
seventeenth  century,  and  proceeded  westward  for 
an  undefined  period,  and  made  extensive  discov- 
eries on  the  Mississippi,  Missouri,  and  other 
western  rivers,  and  either  saw,  or  heard  from  the 
Indians,  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  His  accounts, 
however,  are  somewhat  mixed,  and  not  at  all  sat- 
isfactory. It  is  reported  that  John  Jacob  Astor 
fitted  out  an  expedition,  in  1820,  to  cross  the 
Continent,  meet  a  vessel  he  had  sent  round  Cape 
Horn,  and  at  some  point  on  the  Pacific  Coast, 
form  a  town  which  should  be  to  it  what  New 
York  was  to  the  Atlantic  Coast,  the  greatest 
commercial  emporium  of  that  part  of  the  country. 
This  expedition,  it  is  said,  crossed  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  near  Fremont's  Peak  in  the  Wind 
River  Range,  and  after  reaching  the  Tetons  sep- 
arated into  small  parties,  each  one  exploring  on 
its  own  account.  One  of  these,  consisting  of 
four  men  and  commanded  by  a  Mr.  Miller, 
hunted  around  the  vicinity  of  Snake  River  and 
the  Soda  Springs,  finally  crossing  into  Cache 
Valley,  a  little  north-west  of  Corinne.  It  is  fur- 
ther reported  that  Miller,  in  one  of  his  rambles, 
ascended  the  mountains  south  of  this  valley,  and 
here,  for  the  first  time,  beheld  the  waters  of  the 
great  inland  sea  spread  out  before  him.  He  re- 
turned to  his  party,  and  with  them  proceeded  to 
the  lake,  and  on  further  inspection  concluded  it 
was  an  arm  of  the  ocean.  This  was  its  first  dis- 
covery by  white  men.  The  next  recorded  visita- 
tion is  that  of  John  Bedyer,  in  1825,  and  the 
next  was  by  Captain  Bonneville,  in  1831,  who 
saw  it  from  the  Red  Buttes  in  the  Wahsatch 
Range,  and  whose  account  was  written  up  by 
Washington  Irving.  In  1832,  Captain  Walker 


first  attempted  to  explore  it  with  a  party  of  forty 
men.  He  traveled  around  the  northern  and 
western  boundaries,  but  was  compelled  to  aban- 
don the  undertaking  for  want  of  water  for  his 
animals  and  men.  Captain  Stansbury  after- 
wards explored  it,  and  his  report  contains  the 
only  reliable  information  concerning  this  re- 
markable lake  that  has  been  published  from 
official  sources,  though  subsequent  observation 
has  revealed  many  facts  and  phenomenon  con- 
cerning it  which  would  be  highly  interesting  if 
they  could  be  collected  and  given  to  the  world  in 
tangible  form.  General  Fremont  also  visited 
this  lake,  and  has  given  some  information  about 
it. 

Analysis. — The  only  analysis  of  its  waters 
that  we  have  been  able  to  obtain  is  that  given 
by  Dr.  Gale  and  recorded  in  Captain  Stansbury's 
report.  We  quote :  "  It  gives  the  specific  gravity, 
1.170;  solid  contents,  22.422  out  of  100  parts. 
The  solid  contents  when  analyzed  gave  the  fol- 
lowing components : 

Chloride  of  sodium, 
Sulphate  of  soda, 
Chloride  of  magnesium. 
Chloride  of  Calcium,  a  trace. 


Loss, 


22.282 
0.140 


22.422 


A  remarkable  thing  about  this  analysis  is  that 
the  specific  gravity,  as  here  given,  corresponds 
exactly  with  the  mean  of  eight  different  analyses 
of  the  waters  of  the  Dead  Sea  of  Palestine,  which 
is  largely  above  that  of  the  water  of  the  ocean. 
This  analysis  reveals  what  is  now  generally 
known,  that  here  is  a  source  from  which  salt 
enough  can  be  obtained  to  supply  the  Continent. 
When  it  is  considered,  however,  that  all  the 
streams  flowing  into  this  lake  are  fresh  water, 
draining  the  water-shed  of  a  large  area  of 
country,  and  discharging  from  the  springs,  melt- 
ing snows  and  rains  of  the  great  basin,  an  im- 
mense volume  of  water,  the  puzzling  question 
very  naturally  arises  as  to  the  source  of  this 
abundant  supply  of  saline  matter.  The  various 
saline  incrustations,  however,  at  various  points 
on  the  surrounding  shores,  indicate  clearly  that 
some  portion  of  tiie  earth  is  saturated  with  tliis 
ingredient.  Still  this  lake  is  without  any  visi- 
ble outlet,  and  with  all  the  great  influx  of  fresh 
water,  annually,  why  does  it  remain  so  salty  ? 
The  inference  naturally  follows  that  it  washes 
some  vast  bed  of  rock  salt  or  saline  deposit  in 
the  bottom  of  the  lake,  hitherto  undiscovered. 
At  present,  however,  this  is  a  supposition 
which  may  or  may  not  be  true.  The  shores  of 
this  lake,  especially  toward  the  city  bearing  the 
same  name,  have  now  been  settled  nearly  thirty 
years,  and  it  would  be  strange  indeed  if  tlie 
changes  in  elevation  which  have  been  gradually 
going  on  in  this  lake  should  not  have  been 
noticed.  The  elevation  is  given  at  4,200  feet 


155 


above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  elevation  of 
Salt  Lake  City  is  given  at  4,351  feet  above  the 
sea — difference  of  151  feet.  The  figures  here 
given  as  the  elevation  of  the  lake,  we  think,  are 
based  upon  observations  and  calculations  made 
several  years  ago,  perhaps  by  Captain  Stansbury. 
The  observation  of  the  old  settlers  is,  that  it  is 
not  correct — that  the  lake  is  from  ten  to  fifteen 
feet  higher  now  than  it  was  in  1850,  and  that  in 
proportion  as  the  water  rises  it  becomes  less 
salty.  Reliable  citizens  have  informed  us  that 
in  1850,  three  barrels  of  water  evaporated  would 
make  one  of  salt ;  now,  four  barrels  of  water  are 
required  for  the  same  result.  This  fact  leads  to 
the  opinion  that  the  humidity  of  the  atmosphere 
in  this  region  of  the  Continent  is  increasing — in 
consequence  of  which  there  is  less  evaporation — 
evaporation  being  greater  and  more  rapid  in  a 
dry  than  in  a  moist  atmosphere — and  the  failure 
of  evaporation  to  take  up  the  surplus  waters  dis- 
charged into  this  lake  has  not  only  increased  its 
volume  and  extent,  but  lessened  its  saline 
character.  Since  the  settlement  of  this  Terri- 
tory, there  has  been  a  great  increase  of  rain-fall, 
so  much  so  that  it  is  noticed  and  remarked  upon 
by  very  many  of  the  inhabitants,  and  the  belief 
is  very  generally  entertained  that  the  Territory  is 
gradually  undergoing  a  great  climatic  change. 

Speculations  as  to  the  Result. — The 
evaporation  of  the  water  in  the  lake  growing 
gradually  less,  it  will,  of  course,  continue  to 
rise  and  overflow Jts  banks  in  the  lowest  places, 
but  no  fears  need  be  entertained  for  the  safety 
of  any  considerable  portion  of  the  country,  or 
the  inhabitants  thereof.  Notice  the  elevation  of 
Salt  Lake  City,  as  herein  given,  being  about  151 
feet  greater  than  the  lake  itself.  If  the  rise 
continues  it  will  be  slower  as  the  covered  surface 
of  the  adjoining  land  becomes  greater,  on  the 
principle  that  the  larger  end  of  a  vessel  fills  more 
slowly  with  the  same  stream,  than  the  smaller 
end.  If  it  reaches  a  height  of  15  or  20  feet 
above  its  present  surface,  it  will  first  overflow  a 
low,  sandy  and  alkali  desert  on  its  western  shore, 
nearly  as  large  as  the  lake  itself.  In  this  case, 
its  evaporating  capacity  will  be  nearly  doubled 
in  extent — a  fact  which  will  operate  to  retard 
its  rise.  But  if  it  continues  to  rise  in  the  years 
to  come  until  it  must  have  an  outlet  to  the  ocean, 
that  outlet  will  be  the  Humboldt  River,  and  a 
cut  of  100  feet  or  less  in  the  low  hills  of  the 
divide  will  give  it.  Parties  who  are  well  ac- 
quainted with  the  nature  of  the  country  sur- 
rounding this  great  body  of  salt  water,  do  not 
agree  with  the  views  expressed,  that  in  case  its 
rise  continues,  its  waters  will  flow  into  the 
Humboldt  Eiver.  They  assert  that  north  of 
Monument  Rock  is  an  extensive  arm  of  the  lake, 
now  dry,  and  that  the  divide  between  the  north- 
ern extremity  of  this  arm  and  the  Raft  River,  a 
tributary  of  Snake  River,  is  not  more  than  from 
fifty  to  seventy -five  feet  high;  and  that,  »*  the 


lake  rises,  this  divide  will  be  washed  out — or  a 
channel  may  be  cut  through  it  into  Raft  River, 
and  the  surplus  waters  of  the  lake  thus  drained 
into  the  Pacific  Ocean  through  the  Snake  and 
Columbia  Rivers.  When,  however,  this  event 
transpires,  it  will  be — unless  some  convulsion  of 
nature  intervenes  to  hasten  it — after  the  last 
reader  of  this  book  shall  have  finished  his  earthly 
labors  and  been  quietly  laid  away  to  rest. 

Boundaries  and  Extent. — Looking  from 
Observation  Point  at  the  south  end  of  the  lake, 
to  the  north,  it  seems  to  be  pretty  well  di- 
vided. Promontory  Mountains  on  Antelope 
Island,  those  on  Stansbury  Island  and  Oquirrh 
Mountains  are  evidently  parts  of  the  same 
range — running  from  north  to  south,  parallel 
with  the  Wahsatch  Range.  Their  continuity  is 
only  broken  by  the  waters  in  the  lake  or  sink  of 
the  great  basin.  Promontory  Mountains  divide 
the  northern  end  of  the  lake  into  two  parts,  or 
arms,  the  eastern  being  called  Bear  River  Bay, 
and  the  western,  Spring  Bay — the  latter  being 
considerably  the  largest.  The  lake  has  numerous 
islands,  both  large  and  small.  Fremont  Island 
lies  due  west  of  the  mouth  of  Weber  River,  and 
is  plainly  visible  from  the  cars  of  the  Utah  Cen- 
tral Railroad.  South  of  it  and  nearest  to  Salt 
Lake  City,  is  Antelope  Island.  West  of  Ante- 
lope, and  north-west  from  Lake  Point,  is  Stans- 
bury Island.  A  little  north-west  of  this,  is  Car- 
rington  Island.  North  of  these  still,  and  in  the 
western  part  of  the  lake  are  Hat,  Gunnison  and 
Dolphin  Islands.  Nearly  south  of  Gunnison 
Island  is  a  high  promontory  jutting  out  into  the 
lake  called  Strong's  Knob  ;  it  is  a  prominent 
landmark  on  the  western  shore  of  the  lake. 
Travelers  on  the  Central  Pacific  Road  can  ob- 
tain a  fine  view  of  this  great  inland  sea,  near 
Monument  Station.  The  extreme  length  of  the 
lake  is  about  80  miles,  and  its  extreme  width,  a 
little  south  of  the  41st  parallel  of  latitude,  is 
about  50  miles.  Promontory  Mountains  project 
into  the  lake  from  the  north  about  30  miles. 
Nearly  all  the  islands  we  have  named  are  rich  in 
minerals,  such  as  copper,  silver,  gold  and  iron. 
Excellent  quarries  of  slate  have  also  been  opened, 
but  neither  it  nor  the  mines  have  been  developed 
to  any  great  extent,  because  of  the  want  of  cap- 
ital. 

Incidents  and  Curiosities. — When  Col- 
onel Fremont  first  explored  the  lake  in  1843,  it 
is  related  by  Jessie,  his  wife,  that  when  his  boat 
first  touched  the  shore  of  Fremont  Island,  an 
oarsman  in  the  bow  of  the  boat  was  about  to 
jump  ashore,  when  Kit  Carson,  the  guide,  insisted 
that  Colonel  Fremont  should  first  land  and 
name  the  island, — "  Fremont  Island." 

Tonic  Properties. — A  bath  in  the  water 
of  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  is  one  of  the  greatest 
delights  a  tourist  can  seek.  We  have  per- 
sonally indulged  in  its  pleasure,  and  it  is  beyond 
question  a  splendid  recreation.  Upon  the 


156 


wharf  near  Lake  Point,  is  a  cozy  bathing-house, 
wherein  are  bathing-suits,  and  large  tubs  filled 
with  fresh  water ;  donning  the  suits,  you  descend 
the  steps  and  jump  into  the  water.  You  are 
surprised  at  the  buoyancy  of  it.  The  most 
vigorous  effort  and  plunge  will  not  keep  your 
body  under  the  surface.  Clasping  your  hands 
and  feet  in  the  water,  you  can  sit  on  its  bosom 
with  head  and  shoulders  projecting  above  the 
surface, — and  even  then  for  but  a  short  period,  as 
the  buoyancy  of  the  water  soon  has  a  tendency  to 
tip  you  over  on  your  side.  It  is  impossible  to 
stand  erect  in  the  water,  no  matter  how  straight 
or  rigid  you  place  your  limbs, — in  a  moment 
over  goes  your  head,  and  up  come  your  feet. 
Lying  on  your  back,  or  side,  or  face,  in  any  position 
— still  you  will  always  keep  at  the  surface.  But 
beyond  this  curious  feature  of  impossibility  of 
sinking,  there  is  the  better  quality  of  the 
toning  and  invigorating  properties  of  the  bath. 
These  are  beyond  all  question,  the  finest  of  any 
spring  along  the  Overland  Route.  In  some 
warm  summer  day,  take  your  bath  in  the  lake, — 
spend,  say  half  an  hour  in  its  water,  and  then 
returning  to  your  bath-house,  cleanse  your  skin 
from  all  saline  material,  which  may  adhere,  by 
plentiful  ablutions  of  pure  water  from  the  tubs, 
wash  the  hair  and  face  thoroughly,  then  dress 
and  walk  up  and  down  the  wharf,  or  the  cool 
piazza  of  the  hotel, — and  you  are  astonished  at 
the  wonderful  amount  of  strength  and  invig- 
oration  given  to  your  system,  and  with  greater 
elasticity  than  ever  you  have  possessed  before,  it 
seems  like  the  commencement  of  a  new  life. 
Invalids  should  never  fail  to  visit  this  lake,  and 
enjoy  its  bath.  Tourists  who  omit  it, — will 
leave  behind  them  the  greatest  curiosity  of  the 
Overland  Tour,  and  it  is  no  great  effort  of  the 
imagination  to  conceive  this  fully  the  rival  of 
the  great  ocean  in  all  that  can  contribute  to  the 
attractions  of  sea-shore  life.  The  cool  breeze 
and  delicious  bath  are  all  here. 

In  the  summer  time  the  excursion  rates  from 
Salt  Lake  City,  are  $1.50  per  ticket,  which  in- 
cludes passage  both  ways  over  the  Utah  Western 
Railroad,  a  ride  on  the  steamer  on  the  lake,  and 
the  privilege  of  a  bath, — the  cheapest  and 
most  useful  enjoyment  in  the  entire  Territory. 

The  only  life  in  or  near  the  lake,  is  seen  in 
the  summer  time  by  immense  masses  of  little 
insects  (astemia  fertiliso,')  which  live  on  the 
surface  of  the  lake,  and  thrive  on  its  brine. 
These  masses  stretch  out  in  curious  forms  over 
the  surface.  Sometimes,  when  small,  they  appear 
like  a  serpent,  at  other  times  like  rings,  globes, 
and  other  irregular  figures.  A  gentle  breeze 
will  never  disturb  them,  for  their  presence  keeps 
the  water  a  dead  calm  as  if  oil  had  been  poured 
upon  it.  If  disturbed  by  a  boat  passing  through 
the  mass,  millions  of  little  gnats  or  flies  arise 
and  swarm  all  over  the  vessel — anything  but 
agreeable.  Professor  Spencer  M.  Baird,  of  the 


Smithsonian  Institute,  Washington,  believes  the 
lake  may  yet  sustain  fish  and  other  animal  life. 
There  seems  to  be  plenty  of  insect  food  al- 
ways on  the  surface, — occasionally  with  high 
winds,  the  surface  of  the  lake  is  driven  into 
waves,  which  dashing  against  the  shore,  shower 
the  sage  brushes  near  with  salty  incrustations, 
which,  when  dried  in  the  sunlight,  give  a  bright, 
glittering  and  pearly  appearance,  often  furnish- 
ing splendid  specimens  for  mineral  cabinets. 

Atmosphere. — The  atmosphere  which  sur- 
rounds the  lake,  is  a  curiosity,  always  bluish  and 
hazy — from  the  effects  of  the  active  evaporation, 
— in  decided  contrast  to  the  purity  and  trans- 
parency of  the  air  elsewhere.  Surveyors  say 
that  it  is  difficult  to  use  telescopes,  and  astro- 
nomical observations  are  imperfect. 

The  solid  ingredients  of  the  water  have  six 
and  one-half  times  the  density  of  those  of  the 
ocean,  and  wherever  washed  upon  the  shore,  the 
salt  dried,  after  evaporation,  can  be  easily 
shoveled  up  into  buckets  and  bags. 

Burton  describes  a  beautiful  sunset  scene  upon 
the  lake.  "We  turned  our  faces  eastward  as 
the  sun  was  declining.  The  view  had  memo- 
rable beauties.  From  the  blue  and  purple  clouds, 
gorgeously  edged  with  celestial  fire,  shot  up  a 
fan  of  penciled  and  colored  light,  extending  half- 
way to  the  zenith,  while  in  the  south  and  south- 
east lightnings  played  among  the  darker  mist 
masses,  which  backed  the  golden  and  emerald 
bench-lands  of  the  farther  valtey.  The  splendid 
sunset  gave  a  reflex  of  its  loveliness  upon  the 
alkaline  barrens  around  us.  Opposite  rose  the 
Wahsatch  Mountains,  vast  and  voluminous,  in 
stern  and  gloomy  grandeur,  northward  the  thin 
white  vapors  rising  from  the  hot  springs,  and 
the  dark  swells  of  the  lake." 

The  Great  Desert  West  of  Salt  Lake 
City. — The  overland  stage,  which  traversed 
westward,  followed  a  route  immediately  south  of 
Salt  Lake,  and  passed  for  several  hundred  miles 
through  a  desert,  beside  which  the  Humboldt 
Valley  had  no  comparison  in  tediousness  and  dis- 
comfort. Captain  Stansbury,  an  early  explorer,  in 
describing  this  section,  describes  large  tracts  of 
land  covered  with  an  incrustation  of  salt : 

"  The  first  part  of  the  plains  consisted  simply 
of  dried  mud,  with  small  crystals .  of  salt  scat- 
tered thickly  over  the  surface ;  crossing  this,  we 
came  upon  another  portion  of  it,  three  miles  in 
width,  where  the  ground  was  entirely  covered 
with  a  thin  layer  of  salt  in  a  state  of  deliques- 
cence, and  of  so  soft  consistence,  that  the  feet  of 
our  mules  sank  at  eveiy  step  into  the  mud  be- 
neath. But  we  soon  came  upon  a  portion  of 
the  plains  where  the  salt  lay  in  a  solid  state,  in 
one  unbroken  sheet,  extending  apparently  to  its 
western  border.  So  firm  and  strong  was  this 
unique  and  snowy  floor,  that  it  sustained  the 
weight  of  our  entire  train  without  in  the  least 
giving  way,  or  cracking  beneath  the  pressure. 


157 


Our  mules  walked  upon  it  as  upon  a  sheet  of 
solid  ice.  The  whole  field  was  crossed  by  a  net- 
work of  little  ridges,  projecting  about  half  an 
inch,  as  if  the  salt  had  expanded  in  the  process 
of  crystallization.  I  estimated  this  field  to  be,  at 
least,  seven  miles  wide  and  ten  miles  in  length. 
The  salt  which  was  very  pure  and  white,  aver- 
aged from  one-half  to  three-quarters  of  an  inch 
in  thickness,  and  was  equal  in  all  respects  to  our 
finest  specimen  for  table  use.  Assuming  these 
data,  the  quantity  that  here  lay  upon  the  ground 
in  one  body,  exclusive  of  that  already  dis- 
solved,— amounted  to  over  4,500,000  cubic  yards, 
or  about  100,000,000  bushels,"  And  even  this 
small  area,  is  but  a  very  little  portion  of  the 
whole  region,  farther  northward  and  westward. 

The  Wonders  of  Montana. 

This  new  territory  possesses  very  many  re- 
markable features  of  wonderful  scenery,  agri- 
cultural wealth  and  mineral  richness.  In  a  few 
years  it  will  be  as  famous  and  popular  as  Col- 
orado. 

Its  Indian  name  is  Tay-a-he- shock-up,  or 
"  Country  of  the  Mountains"  To  a  larger  extent 
than  any  Western  Territory  it  is  traversed  by 
great  rivers.  The  Missouri  and  Columbia  with 
all  their  tributaries  each  possess  nearlv  2,000 
miles  of  water,  largely  navigable  within  its  bor- 
ders,— and  with  the  Yellowstone,  any  of  them 
are  larger  than  the  Ohio  River  at  Pittsburgh. 
Probably  no  state  in  America  is  as  finely 
watered.  The  valleys  of  these  rivers  are  won- 
derfully beautiful,  usually  a  dozen  miles  in 
width  or  more,  and  all  arable  land.  Were  the 
fertile  land  of  Montana  placed  by  itself,  it  would 
form  a  country  four  miles  wide  and  4,000  long. 

In  addition  to  these  valley  lands,  the  sloping 
sides  of  the  mountains  are  the  natural  home  for 
grazing  immense  herds  of  cattle.  The  grass 
land  and  pastures  of  the  Territory,  being  more 
famous  in  richness  than  any  Territory  of  the 
Union. 

The  climate  is  very  mild,  although  never  as 
warm  as  in  territories  farther  south,  yet  far  more 
even  and  equable.  In  winter  constant  sunshine. 
The  snow-fall  is  not  as  large  as  Michigan  or 
Minnesota,  and  by  actual  test,  the  number  of 
fine  days  in  one  year  was  291, — or  100  more  than 
the  average  of  Chicago  or  Philadelphia.  The 
average  winter  temperature  is  from  25°  to  44°, 
which  being  in  a  dry  climate  is  equal  to  that  of 
35°  to  55°  in  an  Eastern  State.  The  average 
temperature  for  a  year  is  48°.  The  highest  ex- 
treme of  heat  for  six  years  was  94° — and  low- 
est 19° — which  is  less  than  any  Eastern  State, — 
while  the  spring  season  opens  a  month  earlier 
than  at  Omaha. 

These  peculiarities  of  climate  are  due  to  the 
influence  of  the  mildness  of  the  winds  of  the 
Pacific  Ocean,  which  blow  across  Oregon,  and 


up  the  valley  of  the  Columbia,  and  so  moderate 
the  climate  of  this  region  that,  while  most 
northern  in  location,  yet  it  is  equal  in  mildness 
to  one  nearly  1,000  miles  south.  There  are 
16,000,000  acres  of  land  suited  for  culture  and 
less  than  500,000  occupied,  the  last  crops  bring- 
ing about  $3,000,000  in  value. 

The  Territory  is  550  miles  long,  east  and  west, 
and  300  miles  wide  from  north  to  south.  It  is 
three  times  the  size  of  New  York,  twice  the  size 
of  the  whole  of  New  England,  and  will  more 
than  take  Ohio  and  Indiana  together  within  its 
borders. 

Stock  raising  in  Montana  is  attended  with  the 
greatest  ease.  A  $30  Montana  steer,  costs  but 
i$3  to  raise, — and  while  the  mines  continue  to 
increase  in  productiveness,  the  demand  for  all 
farm  and  dairy  products  will  be  very  great. 

Montana  is  filled  full  with  riches  of  gold,  sil- 
ver, iron,  lead,  copper,  etc.  Coal  is  extremely 
abundant.  The  entire  mineral  yield  of  the  Ter- 
ritory to  the  present  time  is  $145,000,000. 

The  financial  condition  is  extremely  lucrative. 
The  average  wealth  of  the  people  is  $450,  for 
every  man,  woman  and  child — the  highest  of 
any  Western  Territory.  Its  entire  productions 
last  year  were  $16,000,000.  The  freight,  etc., 
paid  for  merchandise  passing  to  and  from  its 
principal  cities  exceeded  $10,000,000.  The 
transportation  business  is  immense,  giving  em- 
ployment to  over  2,500  wagons,  8,500  animals, 
1,400  men,  and  an  invested  capital  of  $1,500,000, 
and  the  imports  and  exports  exceed  yearly 
800,000,000  pounds  or  40,000  tons.  Employ- 
ment is  abundant,  living  cheap,  no  one  is  poor — 
for  a  Poor  Man's  Paradise,  there  is  no  home  like 
one  in  Montana. 

The  average  elevation  of  the  Territory  is 
4,000  feet  above  the  sea, — half  that  of  Colorado. 
It  is  unlike  Utah  or  Nevada,  in  that  the  country 
is  generally  green,  while  the  others  are  dry 
most  of  the  year. 

Utah  and  NortJiern  Brdncli  Union 
Pacific  Railway,  or  the  New  Route  to 
Montana  and  the  Yellowstone. — This  new 
railroad  has  been  lately  pushed  rapidly  north- 
ward from  Ogden,  Utah,  toward  Montana.  It 
is  now  (June,  1881)  completed  to  Melrose, 
Montana,  380  miles  north  of  Ogden,  and  only 
thirty-five  miles  south  of  Butte,  sixty-five  south 
of  Deer  Lodge,  and  seventy-five  south  of 
Helena,  all  of  which  points  it  will  probably 
reach  during  1881.  Upon,  this  road  are  several 
points  of  very  great  interest,  worth  the  special 
visit  of  tourists  for  one  or  two  days.  The  road 
after  leaving  Ogden  runs  for  a  number  of  miles 
close  to  the  foot  of  the  Wahsatch  Mountains. 
On  its  way  it  passes  a  sulphur  spring  (Hot 
Spring  station)  where  arises  a  dense  cloud  of 
vapor. 

The  first  town  is  "Willard,  a  little  village 
with  2,000  inhabitants,  the  county-seat  of  Box 


158 


Elder  County.  The  road  passes  within  about 
six  miles  of  Corinne,  and  the  terminus  was  for- 
merly there.  There  are  no  large  towns  to  in- 
terest the  traveler,  bnt  reaching  the  Summit, 
four  miles  from  Collinston,  there  the  road 
gradually  rises  above  the  valley  upward  to  the 
mountain  range,  giving  grand  views  of  the 
Great  Salt  Lake  and  its  islands,  with  the  orch- 
ards and  grain  fields  below.  A  backward  look 
reveals  the  glories  of  the  mountains.  Beach- 
ing the  Summit,  there  is  a  glorious  view  of  an 
interior  valley  of  the  Bear  Biver,  with  its  vil- 
lages and  distant  views  of  canons  and  peaks 
The  road  then  descends  rapidly  into  the  Cache 
Valley.  The  land  is  remarkably  rich  and  well 
irrigated.  Near  Logan  is  a  high  plateau  300 
feet  above  the  town,  whence  a  fine  view  of  the 
valley  is  obtained,  and  over  fourteen  Mormon 
villages  seen,  surrounded  with  a  series  of  moun- 
tains capped  with  snow.  The  scene  is  most 
picturesque. 

Logan  is  the  county-seat  of  Cache  County, 
and  the  metropolis  of  the  valley.  Its  popula- 
tion is  3,000.  Here  is  to  be  a  magnificent 
Mormon  temple,  171  feet  long,  95  wide, 
and  86  high,  with  a  tower  rising  up  144  feet. 
The  whole  to  cost  half  a  million.  Logan  Val- 
ley has  a  population  of  about  15,000. 

Hyde  Park  is  a  town  of  800,  Smithfield 
1,200,  and  Richmond  1,200  (Lewiston  400,  four 
miles  from  the  road),  and  all  are  well  supplied 
with  irrigating  ditches,  and  lovely  in  appear- 
ance. 

Franklin  is  in  Idaho,  one  mile  north  of 
the  Utah  line,  a  village  of  500  inhabitants,  and 
forty  miles  from  Malad  City,  the  shiretown  of 
Oneida  County. 

Battle  Creek  keeps  alive  the  memory  of 
General  Connor's  fight  with  the  Shoshone  In- 
dians in  1863-64,  when,  in  the  perils  of  snow 
two  feet  deep,  he  left  but  few  to  fight  again. 

Oxford  and  Swan  Lake  are  unimportant 
but  the  latter  is  an  evidence  of  good  sport  for 
the  gunner.  Game  is  abundant  in  all  the  val- 
leys, and  swan,  ducks  and  geese  on  the  lake. 

After  Nine  Mtle  station  comes  Oneida,  and 
near  Oneida,  and  thirty  miles  distant,  are  the 
famous  Soda  Springs  of  Idaho,  which  can  now 
be  reached  by  stage.  This  is  a  place  where 
most  remarkable  cures  have  been  effected. 

Passing  Belle  Marsh,  Porlneuf,  Pocatelle  and 
Ross  Fork,  we  arrive  at  Blackfoot,  a  mile  south- 
east of  the  Snake  Biver  and  a  mile  north  of 
the  Blackfoot  Biver.  The  broad  p?ain  is  cov- 
ered with  sage.  Here  is  the  eating-station  for 
passengers.  New  Fort  Hall  is  eight  miles  dis- 
tant. 

Riverside,  Eagle  Rock,  Market  Lake  and 
Lav*  are  unimportant,  and  so  is  Camas,  except 
that  it  is  the  stage  station  for  Salmon  City. 

Dry  Creek,  High  £  ridge,  China  Point, 
Beaver  Canon,  Pleasant  Valley,  Monida,  Wil- 


liams, Spring  Hill,  Red  Rock,  Grayling  and 
Dillon  are  all  of  little  importance,  except  that 
Dillon,  the  present  terminus,  is  the  stage 
station  for  the  Yellowstone  National  Park. 

Helena,  City  is  about  500  miles  north  from 
Ogden,  and  has  a  population  of  5,000.  Its  tax- 
able wealth  is  $2, 000, 000— a  beautiful  city.  Its 
business  is  very  large.  The  three  banks  often 
exceed  transactions  of  $300,000  per  day.  Sev- 
eral grocery  firms  each  do  business  of  over  one 
million  dollars  per  annum,  and  half  a  million 
dollars  are  paid  for  freight  coming  here. 

Virginia  City  has  about  1,000  inhabitants 
— elevation,  5,713  feet — very  enterprising.  A 
beautiful  spring  upon  the  mountain-side  flows 
through  pipes  into  the  place,  which  is  there 
supplied  at  no  cost  to  the  people,  who  improve 
its  use  for  pretty  flower  gardens  and  fruit  farms. 
It  is  the  principal  outfitting  place  for  the  Yol- 
•lowstone  Park,  distant  100  miles.  A  fine  wagon 
road  extends  the  entire  distance,  and  stages  ri  in 
regularly  in  summer. 

Bozeman  is  beautifully  located,  surrounded 
by  mountains  abruptly  rising  above  the  valle  y. 
Population  1200;  has  many  elegant  residence,1}. 
From  here  is  an  excellent  route  to  the  Yellow- 
stone Park,  about  100  miles  away.  Near  Bozo- 
man  also  are  other  places  of  attraction  to 
tourists:  Mystic  Lake,  distance  14 miles;  Lund's 
Hot  Springs,  8  miles;  Bock  Canon,  5  miles,' 
Bridger  Canon,  3  miles;  Bear  Canon  and 
Lakes,  6  miles;  Hunter's  Hot  Springs  on  tho 
Yellowstone,  47  miles;  Middle  Creek  Falls  am" 
Canon,  15  miles;  Mount  Blackmore,  30  miles 

The  mountains  around  are  the  SportmanV 
Home,  full  of  large  game,  and  streams  art 
crowded  with  trout. 

Tlie  Deer  Lodge  Springs  are  the  principal 
health  resort.     Here  are  forty  springs,  iron, 
soda,  iodine,  grouped  together,  with  tempera- 
ture of  115°  to  150°. 
ROUTES  TO  THE  NATIONAL  PARK. 

For  tourists  to  the  Yellowstone  the  only  der 
sirable  route  is  that  given  above,  saving  over 
300  miles  of  horseback  riding  required  on  any 
other  route,  and  having  only  a  short,  but  ex- 
ceedingly pleasant  stage  ride  from  the  railway 
terminus.  There  are,  however  several  routes 
to  this  wonder  land.  The  first  is  as  above 
to  Virginia  City  or  Bozeman.  The  tourist 
has  the  choice  of  starting  from  either  of  these 
places,  at  both  of  which  a  complete  outfit  of 
supplies,  animals  and  guides  may  be  obtained. 
Virginia  City  is  preferable,  as  a  superb  stage 
line  runs  thence  to  the  Park. 

From  Bozeman  the  route  is  up  the  Yellow- 
stone Biver  and  across  to  the  Geyser  Basins,  and 
thence  by  way  of  the  Madison  Biver  to  Virginia 
City.  This  is  the  route  that  will  be  followed  in 
the  description.  There  is  a  wagon  road  from 
Bozeman  to  the  Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  wlwre 
there  is  said  to  be  a  hoteL 


159 


From  Virginia  City,  there  is  the  choice  of  two 
roads,  one  of  which  is  to  cross  to  the  Madison 
and  follow  the  trail  up  the  river  thiough  the 
Second  Canon  to  the  Geyser  Basins.  The  best, 
however,  is  to  follow  the  wagon  road  which  is 
completed  to  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin.  It  leaves 
the  southeastern  limit  of  Virginia  City,  and 
strikes  the  Madison  near  Wigwam  Creek,  where 
it  crosses  the  river  and  follows  it  to  a  point  just 
above  the  crossing  of  Lawrence  Creek.  Here  it 
recrosses  and  closely  follows  the  river  to  Drift- 
wood or  Big  Bend,  three  miles  below  the  Second 
Canon.  It  then  leaves  the  Madison  Valley  and 
crosses  through  Eaynolds'  Pass  to  Henry's  Lake, 
the  head  water  of  Henry's  Fork  of  Snake  River. 

From  Sawtelle'sBanche,  on  the  lake,  the  road 
follows  the  east  shore  of  the  lake  for  three  miles 
in  a  southerly  direction,  when  it  turns  to  the 
north-east  and  passes  through  Tyghee  or  Targee 
Pass  and  down  Beaver  Dam  Creek,  over  the 
South  Fork  of  the  Madison,  and  strikes  the 
mouth  of  the  Fire  Hole  Canon,  16  miles  below 
the  Lower  Geyser  Basin.  It  then  follows  the 
river  closely,  crossing  twice  before  reaching  the 
basin. 

From  the  basins,  the  route  is  either  via  Mud 
Volcanoes,  Shoshone  Lake,  or  Yellowstone  Lake, 
to  the  Yellowstone  and  Bozeman.  About  a 
month  ought  to  be  allowed  for  the  round  trip. 

A  second  route,  and  one  which  shortens  the 
stage  ride,  is  to  purchase  an  outfit  at  Salt  Lake, 
or  Ogden,  and  send  it  ahead  to  Market  Lake,  in 
Snake  River  Valley,  joining  it  via  the  railroad 
to  Franklin  and  stage .  line  to  Market  Lake. 
This  saves  about  230  miles  of  staging.  It  is 
about  100  miles  by  a  pack  train  trail  from 
Market  Lake  to  Henry's  Lake  from  which  point 
the  Virginia  City  wagon  road  is  followed  to  the 
"  Geyser  Basins." 

Another  route  from  Market  Lake,  which  is 
long  and  somewhat  out  of  the  way,  but  more  in- 
teresting, as  it  gives  an  opportunity  to  visit 
Mount  Hayden  and  passes  some  magnificent 
scenery,  is  to  travel  with  a  pack  train  up  Pierre's 
River,  across  Teton  Pass,  and  up  the  main  Snake 
River  to  Shoshone  Lake,  whence  the  other  points 
of  interest  in  the  Park  are  readily  reached.  This 
is  one  of  the  routes  followed  by  the  Hayden 
Geological  Survey  in  1872. 

Third.  Camp  Brown  is  a  military  post  about 
120  miles  from  Rawlins  Springs  Station  on  the 
Union  Pacific  Railroad,  with  which  it  is  con- 
nected by  a  stage  road.  The  trail  from  Camp 
Brown  to  Yellowstone  Lake  is  said  to  be  easy 
and  the  distance  only  about  140  miles.  It  crosses 
the  mountains  at  the  head  of  the  Upper  Yellow- 
stone River,  which  stream  it  follows  to  the  lake. 

Captain  Jones,  in  1873,  surveyed  a  route  from 
Point  of  Rocks  Station,  on  the  Union  Pacific 
Railroad,  via  Camp  Brown,  the  Wind  River 
Valley,  and  the  head  of  Wind  River  to  the  Yel- 
lowstone. He  claims  that  it  saves  482  miles  in 


reaching  Yellowstone  Lake.  The  great  draw- 
back is  that  it  is  often  unsafe  on  account  of 
Indians,  and  very  much  obstructed  by  fallen 
timber. 

Fourth.  There  is  the  Missouri  River  route, 
The  river  is  navigable  as  far  as  Fort  Benton 
until  late  in  the  summer,  and  thence  140  miles 
of  staging  will  take  us  to  Helena,  118  miles  from 
Bozeman. 

From  Bismark,  the  present  terminus  of  the 
Northern  Pacific  Railroad,  a  trip  of  ten  or  fifteen 
days,  will  bring  the  traveler  to  Fort  Benton.  It 
will  be  a  tedious  journey,  however,  over  the 
"bad  lands  "  of  Dakotah. 

Another  plan  is  to  disembark  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Mussel  Shell  River,  and  having  ordered 
horses  to  be  in  readiness,  to  take  the  wagon  trail 
to  the  Crow  Indian  Agency  at  the  Big  Bend  of 
the  Yellowstone.  This  would  give  150  miles  of 
land  travel  through  a  prairie  country  abounding 
in  antelope  and  buffalo,  and  sometimes  Indians. 

The  National  Park  may  also  be  visited  from 
the  British  Possessions,  and  also  by  a  road  which 
follows  the  Hell  Gate  and  Bitter  Root  Rivers 
from  the  west,  from  Walla  Walla. 

Outfitting. — A  few  words  about  outfitting 
may  be  useful. 

It  is  scarcely  worth  while  to  take  wagons,  as 
they  can  be  taken  over  only  a  portion  of  the 
route,  while  a  pack  train  may  be  taken  any- 
where. The  latter  is  therefore  preferable,  and 
for  it  a  saddle  animal  apiece,  and  two  pack 
mules  for  every  three  persons,  will  be  sufficient, 
if  too  many  delicacies  are  not  carried.  A  better 
allowance  is  one  pack  mule  for  every  member  of 
the  party.  Two  packers  and  a  cook  will  be  re- 
quired. One  of  the  former  ought  to  be  well  ac- 
quainted with  the  country,  so  as  to  act  also  in  the 
capacity  of  guide.  A  hunter  will  also  be  a 
good  addition  to  the  party.  Such  men  can  easily 
be  found  at  Bozemau  and  Virginia  City. 

Thick  woolen  clothing,  stout  boots,  and  broad- 
brimmed  hats  should  be  worn.  Tents,  plenty 
of  blankets,  and  hunting  and  fishing  tackle 
should  not  be  neglected.  In  the  way  of  provis- 
ions, substantials  are  in  order ;  $ 25  per  man,  for  a 
month's  trip,  will  be  a  liberal  allowance.  Pack 
and  saddle  animals  can  be  procured  at  Bozeman 
or  Virginia  City,  for  from  .$60  to  $125  apiece. 

As  a  good  hotel  and  livery  are  now  to  be 
found  in  Lower  Geyser  Basin,  and  stages  run 
tri-weekly  from  Virginia  City  to  that  point,  it 
is  no  longer  necessary  to  procure  an  outfit,  or 
hire  animals  or  guides. 

The  following  tables  of  distances  are  com- 
piled principally  from  the  reports  of  the  United 
States  Geological  Survey  : 

Ogden,  Utah,  to  Dillon,  Montana,  by  rail,  350  miles. 

Dillon,  to  Virginia  City,  Montana  (stage),  65  miles. 

Virginia  City  to  Lower  Geyser  Basin,  by  (stage),  95  miles. 

Virginia  City  to  Bozeman  (stage),  66  miles. 

Franklin  to  Market  Lake,  Snake  Eiver  Valley,  152  miles. 
Point  of  Rocks  Station,  Union  Pacific  Railroad 

to  Yellowstone  Lake,  by  Captain  Janes'  route,  289  miles. 


161 


BOZEMAN  TO  GEYSER  BASINS,  via  YELLOWSTONE  RIVER. 

Bozeman,  0  miles. 

Fort  Ellis,  3  miles. 

Divide  between  Spring  and  Trail  Creeks,  16  miles. 

Boteler's  Kanche  on  Yellowstone  River,,  39  miles. 

Foot  of  Second  Canon  of  the  Yellowstone,  52  miles. 

Devil's  Slide  at  Cinnabar  Mountain,  60  miles. 

Bridge  near  mouth  of  Gardiner's  River,  68  miles. 

Cache  Valley,  the  mouth  of  East  Fork  of  Yel- 
lowstone, 84  miles'. 

Crossing  of  Tower  Creek,  88  miles. 

Divide  on  spur  from  Mount  Washburn,  94  miles. 

Crossing  of  Cascade  Creek,  108  miles. 

Mud  Volcanoes,  117  miles. 

Yellowstone  Lake  at  head  of  River,  124  miles. 

Head  of  Yellowstone  River,  to  Hot  Springs  on 

South-west  arm  of  Lake,  15  miles. 

Hot  Springs  to  Upper  Geyser  Basin,  15  miles. 

Mud  Volcanoes  to  Lower  Geyser  Basin,  24  miles. 

Bridge  near  mouth  of  Gardiner's  River,  to 

Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  4  miles. 


MARKET  LAKE  TO  YELLOWSTONE  LAKE. 

Market  Lake,  0  miles. 

Henry's  Lake,  100  miles. 

Tyghee  Pass,  110  miles. 

Gibbon's  Fork,  133  miles. 

Lower  Geyser  Basin,  140  miles. 

Upper  Geyser  Basin,  148  miles. 

Divide.  158  miles. 

Shoshone  Geyser  Basin,  162  miles. 

Lewis  Lake,  172  miles. 

Hot  Springs,  Yellowstone  Lake,  180  miles. 

VIRGINIA    CITY     TO     YELLOWSTONE     LAKE,    VIA    BTAOE  LINE  TO 
GEYSER  BASINS. 

Virginia  City, 

Madison  Kiver,  half  mile  from  Wigwam  Creek, 

Driftwood,  or  Big  Bend  of  Madison, 

Henry's  Lake, 

Tyghee  Pass, 

Gibbon's  Fork, 

Lower  Geytier  Basin, 

Upper  Geyser  Basin. 

Yellowstone  Lake, 


0  miles. 

14  miles. 

42  miles. 

60  miles. 

63  miles. 

86  miles. 

93  miles. 
101  miles. 
116  miles. 


THE    YELLOWSTONE    PARK. 

BY  PROF.  F.  V.  HAYDSN,—  U.  S.  GEOLOGICAL  SURVEY. 


THE  Yellowstone  Park  is  the  grandest  pleasure 
ground  and  resort  for  wonderful  scenery  on  the 
American  Continent,  and  doubtless  the  time  is 
not  far  distant,  when  Pacific  tourists  will  make 
it  one  of  their  most  interesting  pleasure  trips. 
The  word  park,  naturally  brings  to  the  mind 
of  the  reader,  visions  of  the  park  as  he  finds  it 
in  our  eastern  cities,  or  in  foreign  capitals  ;  with 
its  beautiful  drives,  and  its  well  kept  walks,  and 
neatly  trimmed  grass-plats.  In  imagination  he 
sees  the  usual  sign-board ;  with  rules  and  regula- 
tions, and  the  warning,  "keep  off  the  grass." 
He  sees  them  in  imagination  alone ;  for  in  the 
Yellowstone  National  Park,  roads  are  few  and 
far  between.  Animals  untamed,  sufficient  to 
furnish  innumerable  zoological  gardens,  wander 
at  will  through  the  dense  pine  forests,  or  bask 
in  the  sunlight  in  beautiful  grassy  openings, 
whose  surfaces  are  perfect  flower  gardens,  re- 
splendent with  hues  that  rival  the  rainbow. 

Elk,  deer,  antelope,  and  smaller  game,,  are 
found  in  profusion ;  and  all  the  streams  and 
lakes  abound  in  fish ;  large  and  delicious  trout ; 
making  the  park  a  paradise  for  the  hunter  and 
sportsman. 

To  the  artist,  and  lover  of  nature,  are  pre- 
sented combinations  of  beauty  in  grand  pan- 
oramas and  magnificent  landscapes,  that  are 
seldom  equaled  elsewhere.  Snow-capped  mount- 
ains tower  grandly  above  the  valley,  seeming  to 
pierce  the  clouds ;  while  at  their  feet  are  streams, 
that  now  plunge  into  the  depths  of  dark  and 
profound  canons,  and  anon  emerge  into  lovely 
meadow-like  valleys  through  which  they  wind 
in  graceful  curves;  often  expanding  into  noble 
lakes  with  pine  fringed  shores,  or  breaking  into 
picturesque  falls  and  rapids. 

To  the  student  of  scier.ee,  few  portions  of  the 
globe  present  more  that  is  calculated  to  instruct 
or  entertain.  Strange  phenomena  are  abundant. 


In  the  crevices  of  rocks,  which  are  the  result  oi 
volcanic  action,  are  found  almost  all  the  known 
varieties,  of  hot  springs  and  geysers.  Geysers 
like  those  of  Iceland  are  here  seen  on  a  grander 
scale.  The  wonderful  "  Te  Tarata  "  Spring  of 
New  Zealand,  has  its  rival  in  the  Mammoth  Hot 
Springs  of  Gardiner's  River;  while  the  mud 
springs  and  mud  geysers  of  Java  have  their  rep- 
resentatives. Sulphur  and  steam  vents,  that 
are  usually  found  in  similar  regions,  are  nu- 
merous. 

Captains  Lewis  and  Clarke,  in  their  explora- 
tion of  the  head  waters  of  the  Missouri,  in  1805, 
seem  to  have  heard  nothing  of  the  marvels  at  the 
sources  of  the  Madison  and  Yellowstone.  They 
placed  Yellowstone  Lake  on  their  map,  as  a  large 
body  of  water,  having  in  all  probability,  derived 
their  information  from  the  Indians. 

In  later  years,  however,  there  began  to  be 
rumors  of  burning  plains,  boiling  springs,  vol- 
canoes that  ejected  water  and  mud ;  great  lakes, 
and  other  wonders.  The  imagination  was  freely 
drawn  upon,  and  most  astounding  tales  were 
told,  of  petrified  forests,  peopled  with  petrified 
Indians  ;  and  animals  turned  to  stone.  Streams 
were  said  to  flow  so  rapidly  over  their  rocky 
beds,  that  the  water  became  heated. 

In  1859,  Colonel  Raynolds,  of  the  United 
States  Corps  of  Engineers,  passed  entirely 
around  the  Yellowstone  Basin.  He  intended 
going  to  the  head  of  the  Yellowstone,  and  down 
the  river,  and  across  to  the  three  forks  of  the 
Missouri,  but  was  unable  to  carry  out  his  plans. 
In  1869,  a  party  under  Cook  and  Folsom,  visited 
Yellowstone  Lake  and  the  Geyser  Basins  of  the 
Madison,  but  no  report  of  their  trip  was  pub- 
lished. 

The  first  trustworthy  accounts  given  of  the  re- 
gion, were  the  result  of  an  expedition  led  by 
General  Washburn,  the  Surveyor-General  of 


162 


Montana,  and  escorted  by  a  small  body  of  U.  S. 
Cavalry,  under  Lieut.  G.  C.  Doane,  in  1870. 
They  spent  about  a  month  in  the  interesting 
localities  on  the  Yellowstone  and  Madison  Riv- 
ers, and  Mr.  N.  P.  Langford  made  the  results  of 
the  exploration  known  to  the  world,  in  two  ar- 
ticles published  in  the  second  volume  of  Scrib- 
ner's  Magazine.  Lieutenant  Doane  also  made  a 
report  to  the  War  Department,  which  was  pub- 
lished by  the  government.  (Ex.  Doc.,  No.  51, 
41st  Congress). 

In  1871,  a  large  and  thoroughly  organized  party 
made  a  systematic  survey,  under  the  auspices  of 
the  Department  of  the  Interior,  conducted  by  Dr. 
Hayden,  United  States  Geologist.  He  was  accom- 
panied, also,  by  a  small  party,  under  Brevet  Col. 
John  W.  Barlow,  Chief  Engineer  of  the  Mili- 
tary Department  of  the  Missouri,  who  was  sent 
out  by  General  Sheridan. 

Through  the  accurate  and  detailed  reports  of 
that  exploration,  the  wonders  of  the  Yellowstone 
became  widely  known,  both  at  home  and  abroad. 

In  February,  1872,  the  Congress  of  the  United 
States  passed  an  act  reserving  an  area  of  about 
3,400  square  miles,  in  the  north-western  corner 
of  Wyoming  Territory,  and  intruding  partially 
upon  Montana,  withdrawing  it  from  settlement, 
occupancy,  or  sale,  under  the  laws  of  the  United 
States  ;  dedicating  and  setting  it  apart  as  a  pub- 
lic Park,  or  pleasuring  ground,  for  the  benefit 
and  enjoyment  of  the  people. 

It  extends  from  the  44th  to  the  45th  parallel 
of  latitude,  and  from  the  110th  meridian  to  a 
short  distance  beyond  the  lllth.  Its  general 
elevation  is  high ;  averaging  about  6,000  feet ;  or 
nearly  the  height  of  Mount  Washington,  in  the 
White  Mountains.  The  Mountain  Ranges  have 
a  general  elevation  from  9,000  to  10,000  feet 
above  sea  level,  although  many  sharp  and  rug- 
ged peaks  rise  considerably  above  this.  The 
country  is  so  elevated  that  it  could  scarcely  ever 
be  available  for  agricultural  purposes.  The  win- 
ter extends  far  into  the  spring,  and  it  is  no  un- 
usual thing  to  find  snow  covering  September's 
flowers. 

During  July  and  August  the  weather  is  de- 
lightful ;  the  thermometer  rarely,  if  ever,  rising 
higher  than  70°  Fahrenheit.  In  the  early  morn- 
ing, however,  it  often  records  26°  ;  and  some- 
times falls  as  low  as  10°  or  12°.  The  air  is  so 
dry  and  invigorating  that  the  cold  is  not  felt  as 
much  as  higher  temperatures  are,  in  the  moister 
eastern  climate. 

Near  the  north-east  corner  of  the  Park,  heads 
Clarke's  Fork,  of  the  Yellowstone.  From  the 
south-west,  Snake  River,  or  Lewis'  Fork  of  the 
Columbia,  starts  toward  the  Pacific ;  while  on 
the  western  side,  the  Madison  and  Gallatin 
Rivers,  two  of  the  three  branches  that  unite  to 
form  the  Missouri,  have  their  origin. 

We  can  climb  a  low  ridge  and  see  the  water 
flowing  beneath  our  feet ;  the  streams  on  one  side 


destined  to  mingle  with  the  mighty  Pacific,  and, 
perhaps,  to  lave  the  shores  of  China  and  Japan ; 
while  those  on  the  other,  flow  down  the  Missouri 
and  Mississippi  Rivers,  to  be  lost  eventually  in 
the  great  Atlantic.  Who  knows  but  that  drops 
of  water,  starting  here  in  opposite  directions, 
may  some  day  meet  on  an  opposite  quarter  of 
the  globe? 

The  largest  mass  of  water  in  the  Park  is  the 
Yellowstone  Lake,  which  lies  near  the  south- 
eastern corner  of  the  Park,  from  the  upper  part 
of  which  the  Yellowstone  River  flows  in  a  north- 
erly direction,  and  after  a  course  of  1,300  miles, 
reaches  the  Missouri,  having  descended  about 
7,000  feet.  Thus  we  have  here  the  heads,  or 
sources,  of  two  of  the  largest  rivers  of  the  Conti- 
nent, rising  in  close  proximity  to  each  other. 
The  divides,  or  water-sheds  between  them,  are 
comparatively  low,  and  sometimes  it  is  difficult 
to  say  in  which  direction  the  water  flows; 
whether  to  the  Pacific,  or  to  the  Atlantic. 

Ttie  Yellowstone  Valley. — Of  the  Yellow- 
stone Valley,  Rev.  Edwin  Stanley,  in  his  well- 
written  "Rambles  in  Wonderland,"  declares 
"  that  no  such  cluster  of  wonders  is  exhibited 
elsewhere  in  the  world.  Let  us  imagine  our- 
selves for  once  standing  in  a  central  position, 
where  we  can  see  every  geyser  in  the  basin.  It 
is  an  extra  occasion,  and  they  are  all  out  on 
parade,  and  all  playing  at  once.  There  is  good 
Old  Faithful,  always  ready  for  her  part,  doing 
her  best — the  two-by-five-feet  column  playing 
to  a  height  of  150  feet — perfect  in  all  the  ele- 
ments of  geyser-action.  Yonder  the  Beehive  is 
sending  up  its  graceful  column  200  feet  heaven- 
ward, while  the  Giantess  is  just  in  the  humor, 
and  is  making  a  gorgeous  display  of  its,  say, 
ten-feet  volume  to  an  altitude  of  250  feet.  In 
the  meantime  the  old  Castle  answers  the  sum- 
mons, and,  putting  on  its  strength  with  alarm- 
ing detonations,  is  belching  forth  a  gigantic 
volume  seventy  feet  above  its  crater;  while  over 
there,  just  above  the  saw-mill,  which  is  rallying 
all  its  force  to  the  exhibition,  rustling  about 
and  spurting  upward  its  six-inch  jet  with  as 
much  self-importance  as  if  it  were  the  only 
geyser  in  the  basin,  we  see  the  Grand,  by  *a 
more  than  ordinary  effort,  overtopping  all  the 
rest  with  its  heaven-ascending,  graceful  volume, 
300  feet  in  the  air.  Just  below  here  the  River- 
side, the  Comet,  the  complicated  and  fascinat- 
ing Fantail,  and  the  curiously-wrought  Grotto, 
are  all  chiming  in,  and  the  grand  old  Giant,  the 
chief  of  the  basin,  not  to  be  left  behind,  or  by 
any  one  outdone,  is  towering  up  with  its  six- 
feet  fountain,  swaying  in  the  bright  sunlight  at 
an  elevation  of  250  feet. " 

This  whole  region  was,  in  comparatively 
modern  geological  times,  the  scene  of  the  most 
wonderful  volcanic  activity  of  any  portion  of 
our  country.  The  hot  springs  and  geysers  rep- 
resent the  last  stages — the  vents  or  escape  pipes 


163 


. — of  these  remarkable  volcanic  manifestations 
of  the  internal  forces.  All  these  springs  are 
adorned  with  decorations  more  beautiful  than 
human  art  ever  conceived,  and  which  have  re- 
quired thousands  of  years  for  the  cunning 
hand  of  Nature  to  form.  It  is  probable  that 
during  the  Pliocene  period,  the  entire  country, 
drained  by  the  sources  of  the  Yellowstone  and 
the  Colorado,  was  the  scene  of  volcanic  activity 
as  great  as  that  of  any  portion  of  the  globe. 
Hundreds  of  the  nuclei  or  cones  of  these  vents 
are  now  remaining,  some  of  them  rising  to  a 
height  of  10,000  to  11,000  feet  above  the  sea. 

Starting  from  Bozeman,  or  Fort  Ellis — three 
miles  from  the  former  place,  and  one  of  the 
most  important  military  posts  in  the  West,  pro- 
tecting, as  it  does,  tho  rich  agricultural  Galla- 
tin  Valley  from  the  incursions  of  the  Indians — 
we  follow  up  a  small  branch  of  the  East  Gal- 
latin,  through  a  picturesque  canon,  in  which 
the  road  crosses  and  recrosses  the  stream  many 
times,  in  the  seven  miles  of  its  length. 

From  the  head  of  this  creek  we  cross  a  low 
saddle  to  Trail  Creek,  down  which  we  proceed  to 
the  valley  of  the  Yellowstone.  Long  before  we 
reach  it  our  eyes  are  greeted  with  the  summits  of 
one  of  the  most  symmetrical  and  remarkable 
ranges  to  be  seen  in  the  West ;  the  Snowy  Yel- 
lowstone Range,  standing  on  the  eastern  side  of 
the  river.  Sharp,  jagged  peaks  and  pyramidal 
masses  stand  out  boldly  against  the  sky,  their 
snow-crowned  heads  glittering  in  the  sunlight. 

As  we  come  into  the  valley,  the  first  view  is 
grand  and  picturesque.  The  vista  extends  for 
thirty  miles  along  the  river  ;  on  the  opposite  side 
the  mountains  rise  magnificently.  Emigrant 
Peak,  10,629  feet  above  sea  level  and  nearly 
6,000  feet  above  the  valley,  stands  at  the 
head  of  the  range,  and  from  its  melting  snows 
are  fed  numerous  streams  that  water  the  hills 
and  plains,  sloping  to  the  river. 

About  40  miles  from  Bozeman  we  reach  Bo- 
teler's  Ranche.  For  a  long  time,  the  Boteler 
brothers  were  the  pioneers  of  civilization  in  this 
region,  and  they  have,  with  true  liberality,  en- 
tertained numerous  parties  on  their  way  to  the 
springs  and  lake. 

From  Boteler's  to  the  Second  Canon,  a  distance 
of  about  10  miles,  the  road  keeps  on  the  west 
side  of  the  river,  skirting  the  base  of  low  vol- 
canic hills. 

The  Second  Canon  stands  at  the  head  of  the 
valley  we  have  just  described.  It  is  a  gorge  less 
than  a  mile  in  length,  cut  in  granitic  rocks,  which 
rise  precipitously  on  either  side  for  a  thousand 
feet  or  more.  The  road  hero  i.~  really  hewn  from 
the  rock.  The  river,  of  a  beautiful  green  color, 
rushes  furiously  through  the  narrow  pass,  broken 
into  foam-capped  waves  by  the  rocks,  which  seem 
to  dispute  its  right  of  way.  One  of  the  most 
agreeable  feature"  of  the  canon,  and  one  "Iso 
whica  is  not  confined  to  it,  is  the  abundance  01 


trout  waiting  to  be  drawn  from  its  pools  and 
eddies. 

Above  the  canon  the  valley  widens,  and  we 
pass  over  a  sage  brush  covered  bottom  for  about 
ten  miles,  to  the  next  point  of  interest,  the 
"Devil's  Slide,"  at  Cinnabar  Mountain.  This 
curious  freak  of  nature  is  somewhat  like  the 
Slide  in  Weber  Canon,  on  the  Union  Pacific 
Railroad,  but  is  on  a  much  larger  scale.  Two 
parallel  walls  of  rock,  each  50  feet  wide  and  300 
feet  high,  extend  from  the  summit  of  the  mount- 
ain to  its  base.  They  are  separated  about  150 
feet ;  the  rock  between,  and  on  both  sides,  hav- 
ing been  removed  by  erosion.  Their  sides  are  as 
even  as  if  worked  with  line  and  plumb.  On 
either  side  of  the  main  slide  are  smaller  ones, 
and  in  one,  is  a  bright  red  band,  20  feet  wide, 
extending  from  the  top  to  the  bottom,  about 
1,500  feet.  From  this  red  band  of  clay,  which 
was  mistaken  for  cinnabar,  was  given  the  name 
Cinnabar  Mountain.  The  earlier  explorers  of 
these  regions,  the  mountaineers  and  trappers, 
were  evidently  impressed  with  the  novelty  of  the 
phenomena,  and  seem  to  have  dedicated  many  of 
the  localities  with  satanic  names,  which  from 
their  fitness,  are  not  likely  to  be  superseded. 
Thus  we  have  "  Devil's  Slide ; "  "  Hell  Roaring 
River ;  "  "  Fire-Hole  Prairie ;  "  "  Devil's  Glen," 
etc. 

Above  Cinnabar  Mountain  the  valley  is  more 
broken  ;  and  we  cross  several  ridges,  strewn 
with  boulders  of  dark  volcanic  rocks,  obsidian 
chips,  and  beautiful  specimens  of  chalcedony 
and  semi-opal. 

Six  miles  above  the  slide,  we  come  to  the  foot 
of  the  Third  Canon,  where  the  Yellowstone  is 
joined  by  Gardiner's  River,  or  Warm  Spring 
Creek,  as  it  was  originally  called.  Here  we 
leave  the  river  to  visit  one  of  the  crowning  won- 
ders of  the  region. 

The  Mammoth  White  Mountain  Hot 
Springs. — This  group  of  springs,  is  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  within  the  limits  of  the  Na- 
tional Park,  and  as  far  as  is  known,  has  not  its 
equal  in  grandeur  in  the  world.  The  Te  Tarata 
Spring  of  New  Zealand,  is  the  nearest  approach 
to  it  in  appearance,  but  the  formation  is  of 
a  different  character;  the  Gardiner's  River 
Springs  depositing  calcareous  material,  while 
that  in  New  Zealand  is  siliceous,  like  the  deposits 
in  the  geyser  region  of  Iceland,  and  in  our  own 
geyser  basins,  at  the  head  of  the  Madison.  The 
exploring  party  of  1870,  di4  not  discover  these 
springs,  and  the  Hayden  Exploring  Expedition 
of  1871,  was  the  first  organized  party  that  ever 
visited  them. 

Leaving  the  Yellowstone,  we  keep  some  300 
or  400  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river  for  a 
couple  of  miles,  passing  several  small  lakes, 
when  w~  descend  to  th~  bank  of  Gardiner's 
lliver,  on  the  eastern  side  of  which  is  a  high 
bluff  of  cretaceous  sandstones  capped  -with  a 


BITS.   HAYDEN   AND   MORAN. 


layer  of  volcanic  rock.  On  the  edge  of  the 
iream,  we  pass  over  a  hard,  calcareous  crust, 
in  which  we  find  several  warm  springs.  At  one 
point  we  pass  a  considerable  stream  of  hot  water, 
revealed  by  the  clouds  of  steam  rising  from 
\o,  flowing  from  beneath  the  crust  into  the  river. 
Turning  to  the  right,  we  ascend  the  hill,  made 
oi  the  same  calcareous  deposit,  which  gives  forth 


a  hollow  sound  beneath  the  tread  of  our  horses 
This  hill  must  have  been  the  scene  of  active 
springs  ages  ago.  Now,  however,  the  deposit 
has  crumbled,  and  is  overgrown  with  pines. 
The  springs  once  were  much  more  numerous 
and  far  more  active  than  at  present. 

Ascending  the  hill,  and  turning  to  the  left,  we 
come  suddenly  upon  the  marvelous  scene.    Be- 


165 


fore  us  stands  one  of  the  finest  of  nature's  archi- 
tectural efforts,  in  a  mass  of  snowy  white  de- 
posits, 200  feet  high.  It  has  the  appearance  of 
some  grand  cascade  that  has  been  suddenly  ar- 
rested in  its  descent,  and  frozen.  The  springs 
are  arranged  on  a  series  of  terraces,  that  rise  one 
above  the  other  like  steps.  There  are  fourteen 
of  these  terraces  with  active  springs,  and  others 
in  which  they  are  extinct. 

The  deposits  extend  from  the  level  of  Gar- 
diner's River,  to  the  head  of  a  gorge  1,000  feet 
higher,  a  distance  of  over  5,000  feet.  The 
area  occupied  by  it,  including  the  extinct  basins, 
is  about  three  square  miles. 

The  lowest  terrace  is  flat,  and  its  basins  are 
very  shallow  and  destitute  of  water.  From  their 
midst  rises  the  "  Liberty  Cap,"  a  conical  mass 
about  50  feet  high,  composed  of  calcareous 
sediment.  The  principal  springs  are  contained 
in  the  mass  extending  from  the  second  to  the 
twelfth  terraces,  inclusive.  Here  the  basins  are 
most  perfect,  surrounded  with  beautiful  scal- 
loped edges.  The  water  falls  from  the  upper 
basins  to  the  lower,  becoming  cooler  as  it  de- 
scends, so  that  water  of  almost  any  temperature 
may  be  found  in  which  to  bathe.  At  the  head 
of  the  gulch  are  several  mounds,  in  which  there 
are  miniature  geysers.  The  springs  are  changing 
from  year  to  year ;  dying  out  in  some  places,  and 
breaking  out  in  others. 

Toward  the  head  of  Gardiner's  River  are 
several  beautiful  cascades,  and  the  scenery  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  springs  is  varied  and  beauti- 
ful. We  must  wend  our  way  up  the  river  in 
search  of  new  wonders.  We  can  follow  either  of 
two  trails ;  one  up  the  Yellowstone  River,  and 
the  other  up  Gardiner's  River.  Both  trails 
eventually  unite,  and  lead  us  to  the  mouth  of 
the  East  Fork  of  the  Yellowstone,  about  20 
miles  from  Gardiner's  River.  A  trip  up  the  East 
Fork  will  repay  the  tourist.  The  scenery  is 
grand  beyond  description.  At  the  extreme 
sources  is  a  chaotic  mass  of  peaks,  from  the 
water-shed  between  the  East  Fork,  and  Clarke's 
Fork.  We  pass  by  the  cone  of  an  extinct 
geyser,  and  Amethyst  Mountain,  on  whose  sum- 
mit may  be  found  beautiful  amethyst  crystals 
imbedded  in  volcanic  rocks. 

Tower  Creek  and  Falls.— Tower  Creek 
is  about  three  miles  above  the  bridge  that  crosses 
the  Yellowstone,  near  the  mouth  of  the  East 
Fork.  The  trail  keeps  on  the  west  side  of  the 
river,  and  reaches  the  creek  a  short  distance 
above  the  fall,  which  is  one  of  the  most  pictur- 
esque in  the  Park.  Tower  Creek  is  a  swift 
mountain  torrent,  which,  breaking  into  rapids, 
suddenly  dashes  over  a  ledge  of  rock  and  falls 
in  one  clean  sweep  156  feet,  to  a  rounded  basin, 
cut  from  the  solid  rock,  and  then  hurries  on 
through  a  short  canon,  to  join  the  Yellowstone. 
The  rocks  about  the  fall  have  been  so  eroded  as 
to  leave  tower-like  masses,  from  50  to  100  feet 


high.  Two  of  them  stand  on  either  side,  at  the 
edge  of  the  fall,  like  huge  giants.  Let  us  ascend 
one.  Hold  on  tightly,  and  look  down.  The 
edge  of  the  fall  is  full  100  feet  below,  and  the 
foot  156  feet  farther.  There  are  a  few  unim- 
portant sulphur  springs  on  the  river,  and  oppo- 
site the  falls  are  Column  Rocks,  exposed  in  a 
bluff  346  feet  high.  There  are  three  rows  of 
basaltic  columns  from  15  to  30  feet  high;  the 
beds  between  are  infiltrated  with  sulphur,  giving 
them  a  bright  yellow  color.  A  short  distance 
above  the  mouth  of  Tower  Creek,  is  the  lower 
end  of  the  "  Grand  Canon  "  of  the  Yellowstone, 
and  the  trail  now  leaves  the  river  to  pass  around 
the  western  base  of  Mount  Washburn.  This  is 
one  of  the  highest  peaks  in  the  neighborhood, 
rising  10,388  feet  above  sea  level.  An  hour's  ride 
will  take  the  traveler  to  its  summit,  from  which 
a  view  of  the  country  in  every  direction  is  com- 
manded, which  well  repays  one  the  tedious  climb. 
At  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  on  the  south-east- 
ern side,  is  a  group  of  mud  and  sulphur  springs 
which  have  been  called  the  "  Hell  Broth  Springs." 
To  reach  them,  the  best  way  is  to  camp  a  little 
more  than  a  mile  from  the  top  of  the  range,  on 
a  small  stream  which  is  followed  for  about  a 
mile.  A  plain  trail  leads  from  the  springs  to  the 
falls  of  the  Yellowstone,  which  will  be  our  next 
stopping  place.  The  best  camping  places  are  on 
Cascade  Creek,  about  18  miles  from  Tower 
Creek.  This  small  stream  is  parallel  to  the  Yel- 
lowstone for  the  greater  part  of  its  course,  al- 
though flowing  in  the  opposite  direction,  a  little 
over  a  mile  from  the  river.  It  soon  turns  at 
right  angles  and  joins  the  river  about  midway 
between  the  Upper  and  Lower  Falls.  Just  be- 
fore it  reaches  the  main  stream  it  passes  through 
a  deep  and  gloomy  gorge,  where  it  breaks  into  a 
cascade  of  exceeding  beauty  called  "  Crystal 
Falls."  Its  height  is  129  feet.  The  water  first 
falls  but  five  feet,  and  then  down  it  goes  fifteen 
feet,  falling  into  a  beautiful  rounded  basin  in 
which  the  clear  water  is  perfectly  placid.  From 
this  basin  the  final  leap  over  the  rocky  ledges  is 
taken. 

Falls  of  the  Yellowstone  and  Grand 
Canon. — No  language  can  do  justice  to  the 
wonderful  grandeur  and  beauty  of  the  Grand 
Canon.  In  some  respects  it  is  the  greatest  won- 
der of  all. 

It  is  a  gorge  carved  by  the  river  in  volcanic 
rocks,  to  a  depth  increasing  from  nearly  a  thou- 
sand feet  to  over  two  thousand.  Its  length  is 
about  thirty  miles.  The  walls  are  inclined  from 
45°  to  80°,  and  in  many  places  become  vertical. 
They  are  eroded  into  towers,  spires,  and  min- 
arets. The  striking  feature  of  the  remarkable 
view  is  the  brilliancy  of  the  colors.  The  pure 
whites  of  the  decomposing  feldspar  are  mingled 
with  sulphur  yellows,  and  streaked  with  bands  of 
bright  red,  colored  with  iron.  Dense  pine  forests 
extend  to  the  edge  of  the  canon.  At  the  bottom 


166 


of  the  chasm  is  the  river, 
boiling  and  surging  as 
it  goes.  The  descent  to 
the  edge  is  best  accom- 
plished on  the  eastern 
side.  Reaching  the  bot- 
tom, we  hear  nothing  save 
the  distant  thunder  of 
the  fall  and  the  roaring 
of  the  water  as  the  furi- 
ously agitated  waves  dash 
against  the  solid  rock 
at  our  feet,  seeming  to  pro- 
test against  their  impris- 
onment. At  the  top,  the 
tall  pines  form  a  green 
margin  to  the  rocky 
walls. 

On  the  right  side  near 
the  verge  of  the  wall, 
is  a  collection  of  springs, 
mostly  mud  springs,  in 
which  the  mud  is  of  vary- 
ing consistency. 

At   the    head    of    the 
canon,  are  the  Lower  or 
Great  Falls  of  the  Yellow- 
stone.     Long  before  we 
reach  the  brink,  we  hear 
the    suppressed    roar, 
resembling  distant  thun- 
der.    The  best  views  are 
obtained    from    a    point 
on    the    canon    wall,    a 
quarter    of    a    mile    far- 
ther down,  and  from  the 
brink     of    the    precipice 
over     which    the     river 
plunges.    Let  us  approach 
and   look    over.      Down, 
down     goes     the     whirl- 
ing mass,   writhing   and 
battling  with  the  rocks, 
against   which  it  dashes 
with  a  noise  like  the  dis- 
charge of  heavy  artillery.     Here  and  there,  a 
resisting  rock  is  met,  and  the  water  rebounds, 
broken    into  myriads   of   drops,  which   throw 
back  to  us  the  sunlight  resolved  into  its  primi- 
tive colors.     The  bottom  reached,  the  column 
breaks  into  an  immense  cloud  of  spray,  whose 
moisture  nourishes  the  vegetation  on  the  walls 
near  the  fall.     The  river,  before  it  pours  over 
the  edge,  narrows  to  about  a  hundred  feet. 
The   height  of  the  fall    has    been  variously 
given.     The  measurement  with  a  line  in  1870, 
gave  350  feet  as  the  result.     Triangulation  from 
a  base  line  on  the  edge  of  the  canon,  by  the 
Geological  Survey  in  1872,  made  it  397  feet, 
and  a  barometrical  measurement  in  1873,  by 
Captain  Jones,  made  it  328.7  feet. 

The  Upper  Falls  are  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 


ASCENDING  THE  GLACIERS  OF  MT.  HAYDEN. 


167 


LOWER  PALLS  OP  THE  YELLOWSTONE. 


above  the  Lower  Falls.  Between  them,  the 
river  is  in  a  canon  whose  depth  is  from  100  to 
300  feet.  Near  the  Lower  Falls  it  is  a  succes- 
sion of  rapids.  The  two  falls  are  very  unlike, 
but  equally  interesting,  the  Upper  perhaps  not 
possessing  as  much  of  grandeur  as  the  Lower. 
The  height  of  the  former  is  140  feet.  The  river 


above  is  broken  into  rapids,  and,  reaching  the 
edge,  the  entire  volume  of  waier  seems  to  be 
hurled  off  the  precipice  with  terrific  force,  so 
that  the  mass  is  broken  into  most  beautiful 
snow-white  drops,  presenting,  at  a  distance,  the 
appearance  of  snowy  foam.  Midway  in  its 
descent  a  ledge  of  rock  is  met  with,  which  car- 


168 


ries  it  away  from  the  vertical  base  of  the  preci- 
pice. The  water  has  worn  a  circular  basin  in 
the  hard  rock.  From  any  point,  the  view  is 
striking  and  picturesque.  What  it  lacks  in  sub- 
limity is  compensated  for  by  its  beauty. 

Crater  Hills  and  Mud  Volcanoes. — 
Leaving  the  falls,  the  trail  leads  us  up  the  river, 
and  soon  brings  us  out  into  a  level  prairie 
country,  through  which  the  Yellowstone  flows 
peacefully  between  low,  verdant  banks,  and  over 
pebbly  bottoms,  or  treacherous  quicksands, 
giving  no  intimation  of  its  struggles  below. 
We  seem  to  have  left  everything  terrific  and 
diabolic  behind  us.  Stopping  to  drink  at  a 
beautiful  looking  creek,  we  find  it  impregnated 
with  alum.  This  is  Alum  Creek,  which  has  its 
source  in  the  springs  about  Crater  Hills,  six 
miles  above  the  falls.  The  best  camping  place 
will  be  found  three  miles  farther  on,  at  Mud 
Vo'canoes,  from  which  point  the  springs  in  this 
part  of  the  valley  can  be  visited.  They  are 
found  on  both  sides  of  the  river.  At  the  head  of 
some  of  the  branches  of  Warm  Spring  Creek,  are 
sulphur  and  mud  springs,  and  on  the  eastern  side 
**.  the  river,  numerous  mud  springs  are  found. 

Crossing  Alum  Creek,  we  soon  find  ourselves 
At  Crater  Hills, — two  high  conical  white  hills, 
about  200  feet  high,  around  the  base  of  which 
are  hot  springs  and  steam  jets.  One  of  the 
latter  is  called  the  "  Locomotive  Jet  "  from  the 
oois'e  made  by  the  escaping  steam.  The  princi- 
pal/ spring  is  the  "Boiling  Sulphur  Spring." 
[t  is  about  12  feet  in  diameter,  and  encircled  by 
a  beautifully  encrusted  collar-like  rim.  The 
water  is  constantly  agitated,  rising  from  three  to 
four  feet  above  the  basin  like  some  huge  caldron. 
Crossing  through  a  narrow  belt  of  timber,  a 
short  distance  east  of  this  spring,  we  come  upon 
a  group  of  active  mud  and  sulphur  springs,  all 
tasting  strongly  of  alum.  The  noise  made  by 
the  boiling  mud,  the  scream  of  the  steam  jets,  the 
plop-plop  of  the  smaller  mud-pots,  the  puffing 
and  throbbing  of  the  larger  ones,  and  the  sul- 
phurous odors  that  fill  the  air,  combined  with 
the  treacherous  nature  of  the  ground  beneath 
us,  give  rise  to  feelings  that  are  difficult  to 
analyze. 

At  Mud  Volcanoes,  we  find  new  wonders  in 
the  "Devil's  Caldron,"  "The  Grotto,"  "The 
Mud  Geyser,"  and  a  host  of  smaller  springs. 

The  presence  of  the  "Caldron,"  is  made 
known  by  the  immense  column  of  steam,  which 
is  continually  rising  from  it.  It  is  on  the  side 
of  a  low  hill.  The  steam  generally  obscures  the 
view  of  the  seething  mass  of  blackish  mud, 
which  is  20  feet  below  the  surface.  The  trees 
all  about  the  crater,  are  coated  with  mud  which 
it  is  supposed  has  been  ejected  during  an  erup- 
tion of  this  mud  geyser.  It  does  not  boil  with 
an  impulse  like  most  of  the  mud  springs,  but 
with  a  constant  roar  that  shakes  the  ground 
and  may  be  heard  at  a  considerable  distance. 


About  200  yards  from  the  "  Caldron  "  at  the 
head  of  the  rivulet,  which  drains  the  group  of 
springs,  is  the  "  Grotto."  It  is  a  sort  of  cave  in 
the  rock.  The  orifice  is  about  15  feet  high,  and 
slopes  gradually  inward  for  about  20  feet. 
From  this  cavern  at  regular  intervals  of  a  few 
seconds,  there  bursts  forth  a  mass  of  steam,  with 
a  pulsation  that  causes  the  earth  to  throb,  while 
a  small  stream,  clear  as  crystal,  but  absurdly 
disproportionate  to  the  amount  of  noise,  flows 
from  the  mouth  of  the  cavern.  The  steam  is  so 
hot,  that  only  when  the  breeze  wafts  it  aside, 
can  we  look  into  the  opening. 

The  "  Muddy  Geyser "  has  a  funnel-shaped 
basin,  60  feet  in  diameter,  which  is  in  the  midst 
of  a  basin  measuring  200  feet  by  150  feet— with 
sloping  sides  of  clay  and  sand.  The  flow  takes 
place  at  intervals  of  from  four  to  six  hours,  last- 
ing from  twelve  to  sixteen  minutes  each.  The 
water,  mingled  with  mud,  rises  gradually  until 
the  basin  is  filled  to  the  level  of  the  brim,  when 
a  slight  bubbling  commences  near  the  center. 

Suddenly  it  is  thrown  into  violent  confusion, 
and  an  irregular  mass  of  lead  colored  mud  and 
water  is  thrown  into  the  air  with  irregular  pul- 
sations. The  height  attained  is  15  to  40  feet. 
At  the  end  of  the  eruption  the  water  sinks  into 
the  funnel-shaped  orifice,  to  go  through  the  same 
operation  in  a  few  hours.  , 

From  Mud  Volcanoes  we  can  go  either  to  the 
Geyser  Basins  of  Fire  Hole  River,  or  to  Yellow- 
stone Lake.  To  the  former,  the  distance  is  about 
19  miles  and  to  the  latter,  only  a  little  over 
seven  miles.  A  trail  is  found  on  both  sides  of 
the  river  and  late  in  the  season  the  river  is  easily 
forded.  The  trail  on  the  eastern  side  will  lead 
us  to  Pelican  Creek,  Steamboat  Point,  and  Brim- 
stone Basin  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  lake,  from 
which  we  can  go  around  the  southern  bays  to  the 
Hot  Springs,  on  the  south-west  arm  of  the  lake, 
to  which  the  trail  on  the  western  side  of  the 
river  will  also  lead  us.  There  are  several  in- 
teresting Mud  Springs,  opposite  Mud  Volcanoes, 
on  the  east  side  of  the  Yellowstone. 

Yellowstone  Lake. — This  beautiful  sheet 
of  water  is  more  than  twenty  miles  in  length 
and  fifteen  in  width.  Its  form  has  not  inaptly 
been  compared  to  that  of  an  outspread  hand — 
the  northern  or  main  body  representing  the 
palm,  while  the  south-western  bay  represents  the 
thumb  considerably  swollen,  the  other  bays  cor- 
responding to  the  fingers,  two  being  small,  and 
the  others  disproportionately  large. 

The  elevation  of  the  lake,  from  measurements 
made  by  the  United  States  Geological  Survey, 
is  7,427  feet  above  sea  level.  Its  depth  is  from 
one  and  a  half  to  fifty  fathoms.  Its  shore  line 
measures  over  three  hundred  miles,  presenting 
some  of  the  loveliest  shore  lines,  especially  at 
Mary's  Bay  on  the  east  side,  south  of  Steamboat 
Point.  Here,  also,  is  Diamond  Beach,  a  broad 
and  level  sand  beach  extending  for  five  miles. 


169 


The  sand  is  composed  of  particles  of  obsidian 
(volcanic  glass)  quartz,  and  chalcedonies  that 
sparkle  in  the  sunlight. 

The  western  side  of  the  lake  is  covered  with 
yine  forests,  as  is  the  southern  end,  where  also 
there  are  many  lakelets,  and  considerable  marshy 
ground.  There  are  no  high  mountains  in  this 
direction,  low,  broad  hills  forming  the  water-shed 
between  the  lake  and  the  sources  of  Snake 
River.  One  can  cross  almost  anywhere  to  the 
Shoshone  Geyser  Basin.  The  eastern  side  of 
the  lake  is  also  well  wooded,  but  more  broken  by 
small  open  prairies.  The  country  on  this  side 
soon  rises  into  a  grand  mountain  range  from 
which  numerous  volcanic  peaks  rise.  Prominent 
among  them  are  Mts.  Stevenson  and  Doane. 
The  interesting  localities  of  the  lake  on  the 
extern  side  are  "  Brimstone  Basin,"  "  Steam 
Point"  and  "Steamboat  Springs,"  "Turbid 
Lake  "  and  the  Springs  of  Pelican  Creek  and 
Sulphur  Hills.  On  the  south-western  arm  also, 


characteristic,  notwithstanding  the  name.  The 
period  of  greatest  activity  of  all  the  springs  here 
is  past,  and  they  are  gradually  dying  out. 

The  springs  on  the  shore  of  the  south-western 
arm  of  the  lake,  occupy  an  area  of  about  three 
miles  in  length,  and  half  a  mile  in  width.  There 
are  no  geysers.  Some  of  the  springs  are  found 
in  conical,  siliceous  mounds,  rising  from  the 
water  of  the  lake  near  the  shore.  One  of  these 
is  named  the  "Fish  Pot,"  from  the  fact  that 
while  standing  on  its  crater,  one  may  extend  his 
fishing-rod,  catch  trout,  and  turning,  may  cook 
them  in  the  spring.  About  four  hundred  yards 
from  the  shore  is  a  basin  of  boiling,  pink-colored 
mud  with  conical  mud  craters,  from  which  the 
mud  is  ejected.  There  are  also  a  number  of  clear, 
flowing  springs  of  hot  water,  and  numerous 
springs  of  boiling,  muddy  water  varying  in  color 
from  white  to  dark  yellow. 

The  next  point  of  interest  after  Yellowstone 
Lake  is  the  Geyser  Region  of  Fire  Hole  River,  or 


YELLOWSTONE  LAKE. 


is  an  interesting  group  of  springs.  "  Brimstone 
Basin  "  is  south-east  of  Steam  Point,  and  marks 
the  seat  of  once  active  springs,  evidenced  by  the 
deposits.  The  stream  flowing  through  them  is 
strongly  impregnated  with  alum.  At  Steam 
Point,  besides  the  springs,  are  several  steam  jets. 
From  one  the  steam  escapes  with  a  noise  resem- 
bling that  made  by  the  escape  of  steam  from  a 
large  steamboat.  Others  resemble  the  escape 
of  steam  from  the  cylinders  of  a  locomotive. 
Springs  are  found  on  the  shore  of  the  lake  be- 
tween Steam  Point  and  Pelican  Creek  and  along 
the  course  of  the  latter  stream.  At  Turbid 
Lake,  two  miles  east  of  the  lake  and  back  of 
Steam  Point,  the  springs  are  mud  springs  and 
sulphur  vents.  The  water  of  the  lake  itself  is 
made  turbid  by  the  springs  in  its  midst  and  on 
the  shores.  Sulphur  Hills  are  between  Pelican 
Creek  and  the  Yellowstone.  Sulphur  is  not 


the  Upper  Madison.  From  the  group  of  springs, 
a  trail,  striking  nearly  due  west,  will  bring  us 
to  the  head  of  the  "  Upper  Geyser  Basin,"  a  dis- 
tance of  about  fifteen  miles.  We  may  also  keep 
more  to  the  south  and  visit  the  geysers  of  Sho- 
shone Lake,  on  the  way,  or  we  may  return  to 
Mud  Volcanoes  and  cross  to  the  East  Fork  of 
Fire  Hole  River,  and  visit  the  "  Lower  Geyser 
Basin  "  first,  which  is,  perhaps,  the  best  course, 
as  the  springs  of  the  Lower  Basin  will  seem  less 
interesting  after  the  greater  wonders  of  the 
Upper  Basin  have  been  seen. 

Geyser  Sn»ins  of  Fire  Hole  Hirer. — 
The  geyser  basins  of  the  Upper  Madison  In- 
clude, altogether,  about  seventy-five  square  miles. 
In  this  area  are  thousands  of  springs  and  gey- 
sers, ranging  in  temperature  from  the  boiling 
point  to  cold.  Their  description  would  occupy 
the  space  of  a  volume.  Only  the  salient  features 


170 


can  be  given  here.  The  springs  are  divisible 
into  three  classes :  1st.  True  geysers  which  are 
agitated  at  stated  intervals,  and  from  which  the 
water  is  projected.  2d.  Those  which  are  con- 
stantly agitated  or  always  boiling.  They  rarely 
have  eruptions;  most  of  the  mud  springs  can 
also  be  included  under  this  division.  3d.  Those 
which  are  always  tranquil.  In  the  latter,  the 
water  is  generally  of  a  lower  temperature,  and 
has  a  beautiful  blue  color,  or  often  a  green  tint 
like  that  of  the  beryl.  In  springs  of  the  very 
lowest  temperatures  there  is  often  a  low  form  of 
gelatinous  vegetable  growth. 

Some  of  the  springs  of  the  Lower  Basin  merit 
the  title  of  small  lakes.  They  are  divided  on 
the  maps  into  eight  groups.  The  first  is  on  the 
East  Fork;  the  second  is  about  a  mile  farther 
to  the  south,  and  the  third,  fourth,  and  fifth 
groups  still  farther  south  on  the  east  side  of  the 
basin.  In  the  third  group  are  the  Fountain 
Geyser,  and  the  Mud  Puffs,  both  worthy  a  visit. 
In  the  fifth  group  is  the  Architectural  Geyser, 
probably  the  most  powerful  in  the  "Lower 
Basin." 

The  sixth  group  is  on  the  main  river  above  the 
mouth  of  Fairy  Fall  Creek,  the  seventh  is  on  the 
latter  stream,  and  the  eighth  on  Sentinel  Creek, 
a  stream  joining  the  Fire  Hole  below  Fairy  Fall 
Creek.  There  are  but  about  half  a  dozen  real 
geysers  in  the  Lower  Basin,  but  craters  are  seen 
which  must  once  have  been  active  spouters.  The 
deposits  are  siliceous,  as  is  the  case  with  the  Up- 
per Basin.  There  are  many  places  where  the 
springs  are  extinct,  nothing  remaining  save  the 
glaring  white  sediment.  The  scalloped  rims  ex- 
tending out  over  the  water,  like  cakes  of  ice,  and 
the  corrugated  sides  of  the  basins  are  exceedingly 
beautiful.  Before  leaving  the  Lower  Basin,  we 
must  visit  Fairy  Falls,  a  very  pretty  miniature 
cascade  at  the  head  of  Fairy  Fall  Creek.  From 
the  mouth  of  the  latter  creek,  to  the  mouth  of 
Iron  Spring  Creek,  which  marks  the  lower  bound- 
ary of  the  Upper  Basin,  the  distance  is  five 
miles  in  an  air  line.  About  midway  are  the  Half- 
way Springs.  The  principal  one  is  a  huge  cal- 
dron, 250  feet  in  diameter,  with  walls  about  20 
feet  high.  It  is  in  constant  agitation,  giving  off 
clouds  of  steam.  On  one  side,  the  wall  is  broken 
down,  and  thence  the  surplus  water  flows  into 
the  river,  through  numerous  channels  whose  beds 
are  lined  with  scarlet,  yellow,  and  green,  which 
contrast  boldly  with  the  white  siliceous  sinter 
surrounding  the  spring.  Farther  back  from  the 
river,  on  a  slight  eminence,  is  an  almost  circular 
spring,  150  feet  in  diameter. 

The  journey  from  one  basin  to  the  other  is 
suggestive  of  the  infernal  regions.  The  trail 
keeps  near  the  river,  which  is  warm,  fed  as  it  is 
by  so  many  hot  streams.  The  ground  sounds 
hollow  under  foot.  We  wind  in  and  out  among 
holes  from  which  steam  and  sulphurous  odors 
escape,  past  great  yawning  caverns  and  cisterns 


of  bubbling,  seething  water  and  mud.  The  air 
is  full  of  strange  noises,  and  we  feel  as  though 
we  were  on  dangerous  ground,  through  which 
we  may  break  at  any  moment  and  descend  to 
flames  beneath.  Again  we  pass  pools  of  trans- 
lucent water,  in  whose  azure  depths  we  can  not 
see  the  bottom  of  the  siliceous  basins. 

We  also  cross  boiling  streams  which  flow  over 
hard  beds  colored  green,  yellow,  and  red,  from 
the  deposition  of  mineral  ingredients  by  the 
evaporation  of  the  water. 

Upper  Geyser  Basin. — The  Upper  Geyser 
Basin  has  been  called  the  Great  Basin,  because 
it  contains  the  principal  geysers.  It  is  about 
two  miles  long,  and  will  probably  average  half 
a  mile  in  width.  The  best  view  is  obtained 
from  the  crater  of  "  Old  Faithful,"  at  the  upper 
end.  Through  the  Lower  Basin  the  course  of 
the  river  is  almost  due  north,  while  in  the  upper, 
it  flows  west  of  north.  Its  banks  are  made  of 
geyserite,  the  siliceous  deposit  of  the  springs, 
which  is  literally  honeycombed  with  springs,  pools 
and  geysers,  that  are  constantly  gurgling,  spit- 
ting, steaming,  roaring,  and  exploding.  To  de- 
scribe all  the  geysers  would  require  more  space 
than  can  be  spared,  and  I  will  therefore  refer 
only  to  the  principal  ones,  hoping  the  reader  will 
take  the  trip  and  see  the  wonders  of  the  Yellow- 
stone for  himself,  which  is  really  the  only  way 
in  which  they  can  be  appreciated,  for  any  de- 
scription must  always  fall  short  of  the  reality. 
Entering  the  Upper  Basin  from  the  north,  we 
pass  a  series  of  rapids  at  the  upper  end  of  which 
we  enter  the  gateway,  as  it  were,  guarded  b^  two 
sentinel  geysers,  one  on  either  side  of  the  river ; 
that  on  the  left  being  the  most  active. 

Following  the  river  for  about  two  hundred  and 
fifty  yards,  we  reach  the  "  Fan  Geyser,"  where 
there  are  several  orifices  from  which  the  water 
radiates,  the  streams  crossing  each  other  and 
producing  a  fan-shaped  eruption.  A  short  dis- 
tance above,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  is 
the  "  Grotto  Geyser  "  which  is  easily  recognized 
by  the  peculiar  form  of  its  crater,  from  which  it 
takes  its  name.  There  are  two  orifices,  the 
principal  one  being  in  the  larger  and  more  irreg- 
ular mound,  which  is  eight  feet  high,  while  the 
smaller  one  is  only  four  feet  high.  The  inter- 
val between  its  eruptions  is  unknown.  It  throws 
a  column  of  water  and  steam  from  40  to  60  feet 
above  its  crater.  Several  hundred  yards  farther 
back  from  the  river,  south-west  from  the  "  Grotto," 
are  the  "  Pyramid,"  "  Punch  Bowl,"  "  Bath  Tub," 
and  "  Black  Sand  "  Geysers. 

The  "  Giant "  is  about  400  feet  south-east  of 
the  "Grotto."  It  has  a  rough,  cone-like  crater, 
ten  feet  high,  with  one  side  broken  down.  The 
orifice  from  which  the  water  is  expelled  is  about 
five  feet  in  diameter.  This  curious  crater  is  near 
the  river's  edge,  on  a  platform  of  deposit  measur- 
ing 342  yards  in  circumference.  It  has  seldom 
been  seen  in  eruption.  Langford  gives  the 


171 


height  as  140  feet  in  1870.  It  was  also  seen  in 
action  in  1874,  but  the  height  was  not  measured. 
Following  up  the  river  on  the  south-west  side, 
we  next  stop  at  the  "  Castle."  It  is  a  cone,  ris- 
ing a  little  over  11  feet  above  an  irregular  plat- 
form of  sinter,  that  measures  75  by  100  feet,  and 
is  three  feet  high.  The  orifice  of  the  geyser 
tube  is  three  feet  in  diameter,  and  circular,  and 
its  throat  is  lined  with  large  orange-colored 
globular  masses.  In  1870,  its  eruption  threw  a 
column  of  water  140  feet  above  its  crater,  con- 
tinuing three  hours.  In  1872,  the  maximum 
height  observed  was  93  feet  and  the  duration 
fifteen  minutes,  after  which  steam  escaped  with 
a  pulsating  movement,  the  whole  display  lasting 
about  an  hour  and  twenty  minutes.  In  1874, 
the  same  succession  of  water  and  steam  was 
noticed,  the  former  lasting  twenty  minutes,  and 
attaining  an  estimated  height  of  250  feet,  and 
the  latter  lasting  about  forty  minutes  longer. 
The  noise  of  the  eruption  is  indescribable.  Im- 
agine a  gigantic  pot  with  a  thunder-storm  in  its 
stomach,  and  to  the  noises  of  elemental  war,  add 
the  shrieking  of  steam  pipes  and  you  will  have 
a  faint  idea  of  it.  After  the  eruption,  the  ex- 
hausted geyser  sinks  into  complete  repose. 

Near  the  "  Castle "  is  a  beautiful  blue  hot 
spring,  which  has  been  given  the  fanciful  name  of 
"  Circes  Voudoir."  The  water  is  perfectly  trans- 
parent, and  so  intensely  blue  that  you  involun- 
tarily plunge  your  hand  in  to  see  if  it  is  water. 
The  basin  is  of  pure  white  silica,  looking  like 
marble.  It  is  about  20  feet  in  diameter,  and  has 
a  beautiful  and  regular  scalloped  margin.  The 
white  basin  slopes  to  a  funnel-shaped  opening 
which  is  40  feet  deep,  and  here  the  water  is  in- 
tensely blue,  its  temperature  180°  Fahrenheit. 

"  Old  Faithful,"  standing  at  the  head  of  the 
valley,  is  so  named  from  the  regularity  of  its 
spouting.  Its  mouth  is  six  feet  by  two,  in  a 
siliceous  mound  that  rises  11  feet  above  the  gen- 
eral level.  On  this  mound  are  small  basins 
whose  edges  are  ornamented  with  bead-like  silica. 
The  eruptions  commence  with  a  few  abortive 
attempts,  followed  by  a  rapid  succession  of  jets 
which  soon  reach  the  maximum,  and  then  sub- 
side, only  steam  escaping  from  the  orifice.  The 
average  interval  between  the  eruptions  observed 
in  1872,  was  one  hour,  two  and  three-quarter 
minutes,  and  the  average  duration  four  minutes, 
fifty-three  seconds.  As  observed  by  Captain 
Jones'  party  in  1873,  the  interval  was  fifty- 
six  minutes  and  forty  seconds,  and  the  dura- 
tion four  minutes  and  thirty-three  and  one-half 
seconds.  The  height  of  the  column  was  esti- 
mated at  nearly  150  feet.  The  greatest  height 
measured  in  1872,  out  of  seventeen  eruptions, 
was  130  feet.  The  "  Bee  Hive  "  is  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  river,  nearly  due  north  of  "  Old 
Faithful,"  and  about  300  yards  distant.  It  is 
near  the  river  and  readily  recognized  by  its 
cone  three  feet  high,  and  about  three  feet  in 


diameter.  From  this  cone  the  water  is  pro- 
jected with  great  force  in  a  steady  stream.  The 
column  is  fan  shaped.  No  water  falls  back,  but 
it  seems  to  be  all  resolved  into  vapor.  The 
length  of  the  eruptions  is  from  four  to  fifteen 
minutes,  and  the  interval  unknown.  The  col- 
umn rises  from  100  to  250  feet. 

Two  hundred  yards  back  of  the  Bee  Hive,  is 
the  "  Giantess,"  which  has  a  large  basin  23  by  32 
feet.  It  is  on  the  summit  of  a  gently  sloping 
siliceous  mound.  Its  eruptions  are  very  irregu- 
lar. They  last  from  8  to  18  minutes.  The  only 
eruption  measured  in  1872,  was  69  feet.  An 
immense  mass  of  water  was  thrown  up.  Other 
estimates  have  given  the  height  as  60,  200, 
and  250  feet. 

Far  the"  down  the  river  and  opposite  the 
castle,  frcnr  wnich  it  is  distant  460  yards,  is  the 
"  Grand  Geyser."  One  would  scarcely  take  it 
for  an  important  geyser,  unless  he  witnessed  one 
of  its  spoutings ;  for,  unlike  the  others,  it  has  no 
raised  crater.  Its  basin  which  is  52  feet  in 
diameter,  is  depressed  a  foot  below  the  general 
level.  The  mouth  of  the  geyser  tube  in  the  cen- 
ter, measures  four  feet  by  two  feet,  and  from  this, 
about  once  in  24  hours,  a  column  is  thrown  to  the 
height  of  from  175  feet  to  250  feet.  The  eruption 
generally  consists  of  three  periods,  after  each  of 
which  the  water  sinks  completely  out  of  sight. 
Near  the  "  Grand  "  are  the  "  Saw  Mill "  and  the 
"  Turban."  The  latter  is  only  a  few  feet  from 
the  "  Grand,"  and  will  be  known  by  the  globular 
masses  that  look  like  huge  squashes,  and  are 
easily  seen  lining  the  sides  and  bottom  of  the 
crater  when  the  water  has  disappeared  from  the 
basin.  The  eruptions  are  unimportant.  Still 
farther  down  the  river,  and  nearly  opposite  the 
"Grotto,"  is  the  "Riverside"  which  brings  us 
back  nearly  to  the  place  we  started.  A  visit  to 
Iron  Spring  Creek,  is  well  worth  taking.  Near 
its  mouth,  on  the  north  side,  is  the  "  Soda 
Geysers  "  group. 

Fair  camps  are  easily  found  in  the  "  Lower 
Geyser  Basin." 

In  the  "  Upper  Basin,"  a  good  camp  for  a 
small  party  is  in  a  grove  near  the  "  Castle."  An- 
other is  found  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
higher  up. 

The  trail  to  the  "  Shoshone  Geyser  Basin  "  leads 
up  the  Fire  Hole  River,  and  a  short  distance 
above  the  "  Upper  Basin,"  we  pass  a  fall  60  feet 
high,  that  is  worthy  a  visit  from  all  who  would 
see  the  beauties  as  well  as  the  wonders  of  the 
region.  It  somewhat  resembles  the  Middle  Fall 
at  Trenton,  New  York.  Above  the  falls,  the 
trail  crosses  the  river  to  avoid  swampy  ground, 
and  keeps  on  the  bounding  ridge  of  hills  on  the 
west.  The  narrow  valley  expands,  and  we  soon 
enter  a  third  geyser  basin  with  several  groups  of 
springs,  and  one  geyser  called  the  "  Solitary." 
It  has  a  dome-shaped  mound,  15  feet  in  diam- 
eter and  11  to  14  feet  high,  covered  with  elegant 


SCENES  IN  THE  YELLOWSTONE  PARK. 
l.-Jupltor*8  Bath8  and  Soda  Monntein.    2.-Valley  of  the  Yellowstone. 


173 


,  »arly  b  e  a  d-work,  and 
striped  vertically  with 
bands  of  white,  dark*  green, 
brownish  black,  and  vari- 
ous shades  of  orange  and 
yellow,  the  white  being  ordinary  geyserite,  while 
the  other  colors  are  purely  vegetable. 

In  the  top  of  the  mound  are  several  openings, 
the  larger  about  three  inches  in  diameter,  from 
which  a  stream  of  water  is  thrown  20  to  50  feet 
and  even  to  70  feet,  mostly  in  drops,  with  much 
steam.  The  amount  of  water  is  small,  yet  is 
erupted  with  great  force,  reminding  one  of  the 
eruptions  of  the  "  Castle."  The  spouting  is  at 


intervals  of  about  two 
hours.  The  elevation  of 
this  "Upper  Basin,"  is 

7,770  feet,  while  that  of  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin, 
proper,  is  from  7,300  to  7,400.  On  a  small 
stream  coming  into  the  basin  from  the  west, 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  river,  is 
a  fine  cascade  130  feet  high.  The  river  rises 
in  a  small  lake  to  which  the  name  Madison 
Lake  is  given.  From  here  the  trail  runs 
due  east  to  Shoshone  Lake,  which  is  one  of 
the  sources  of  Snake  River,  giving  origin  to  the 
main  stream.  From  the  "  Upper  Geyser  Basin  " 
to  Madison  Lake,  is  about  ten  miles,  and  from 
this  lake  to. the  Shoshone  Geysers,  the  distance 
is  about  four  miles.  The  trail  is  not  very  good, 
there  being  considerable  fallen  timber  through 
the  region  to  be  traversed. 

Mount,  Blackmore. — This  mountain,  pre- 
vious to  1872,  was  practically  unnamed  and  un- 
known. It  is  situated  in  the  heart  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  in  Montana  Territory,  and  at  its 
base  are  the  sources  of  the  Gallatin  River,  which, 


174 


with  the  Jefferson  and   Madison   Rivers,  help 
form  the  mighty  Missouri. 

It  was  discovered  by  the  Hayden  Exploration 
Party  of  1872,  and  received  its  name  under  the 


PALACE  BUTTB. 


following  circumstances :  While  camped  at 
Fort  Ellis,  and  making  preparations  for  the  ex- 
plorations of  the  famous  Yellowstone  Expedition, 
the  party  was  joined  by  Mr.  William  Blackmore, 
of  London,  one  of  Eng- 
land's scientific  men.  With 
him  came  his  wife,  who  was 
anxious  to  see  some  of  the 
beauties  and  wonders  of 
our  famous  Yellowstone 
National  Park.  The 
fatigue  and  hardships  of 
the  journey  from  Corinne 
to  Bozeman,  600  miles  of 
staging,  proved  too  much. 
On  arrival  at  Bozeman,  she 
was  taken  ill,  and  after  a 
sickness  of  but  two  days, 
she  died.  Her  grave  lies  at 
the  foot  of  a  mountain 
range,  from  which  there 
rises  a  grand  peak,  stand- 
ing up  like  a  huge  monu- 
ment to  her  memory.  To 
this  peak  the  party  gave  the 
name  of  Mt.  Blackmore. 
The  height  above  the  sea  is 
10,134  feet.  The  ascent  is 
exceedingly  difficult,  and 
required  over  four  days 
by  the  party  who  succee'd- 
ed,  and  the  scene  from 
the  summit  is  inexpress- 
ibly grand,  and  the  field 
of  vision  is  immense. 
Here  a  bird's-eye  view  is 
.gained  of  the  Gallatin 
River  for  over  40  miles  of 
its  course ;  in  the  distance 
is  the  Missouri.  Next  are 
the  Jefferson  and  Madison 
Rivers,  and  southward 
is  a  country  whose  ap- 
pearance is  rough  be- 
yond imagination.  Peak 
upon  peak  looms  up  against 
the  horizon  —  the  Snowy 
Range  of  the  Yellowstone, 
with  its  high  points,  and 
the  Madison  Range  with 
its  numerous  peak-capped 
summits.  Nearly  at  the 
summit  of  Mt.  Blackmore 
is  the  crater  of  an  extinct 
volcano,  and  the  peak  itself 
is  composed  of  black  basalt 
and  a  brick-red  lava.  On 
the  western  and  northern 
sides  there  is  an  almost 
perpendicular  wall,  too 
steep  to  hold  any  snow  in 
lodgment. 


175 


Palace  Butte. —  In  ascending  Mt.  Black- 
more,  the  Hayden  Party  passed  through  a  lovely 
little  park  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  length, 
and  almost  oval  in  shape,  bordered  on  all  sides 
by  a  line  of  grand  old  trees,  whose  symmetry 
would  have  graced  the  finest  artificial  park  in 
the  world.  Back  of  these  trees,  on  the  east,  ris- 
ing to  the  height  of  over  3,000  feet  above  us, 
stood  an  almost  blank  wall  of  volcanic  rock,  the 
prevailing  tint  of  which  was  a  somber  black,  re- 
lieved here  and  there  with  streaks  of  red  and 
green,  as  though  it  had  been  painted.  This  wall 
was  surmounted  by  dome  and  spire-like  points  of 
rock,  in  whose  crevices  lay  deep  banks  of  snow. 
On  the  western  side  of  the  park,  across  the  creek, 
was  a  second  wall  similar  in  character  to  the 
first.  The  effects  of  the  weather  had  given  curi- 
ous architectural  resemblances.  It  did  not  re- 
quire a  very  vivid  imagination  to  trace  castles 
and  fortress  walls  on  the  face  of  the  wall.  At 
the  head  of  the  park  stands  a  monument-like 
pile  of  rocks,  to  which  we  gave  the  name  of 
Palace  Butte,  and  the  park  we  call  Palace  Park. 
The  butte  rises  in  an  almost  dome-shaped  mass 
from  a  blank  wall,  on  whose  sides  we  can  distin- 
guish narrow,  silver-like  lines,  reaching  from  the 
top  down,  until  they  are  hidden  behind  the  trees. 
These,  we  afterward  discovered,  are  waterfalls 
fed  by  the  snows  above.  Without  any  visible 
means  of  support,  they  seem  to  cling  to  the  rock 
for  protection.  The  scene  as  we  came  into  the 
park  was  so  strikingly  grand,  that  we  could  not 
restrain  our  exclamations,  and  it  was  some  time 
before  we  became  composed  enough  to  arrange 
our  camp 

Shoshone  LaJce  Geysers. — In  beauty  the 
springs  of  the  Shoshone  Basin,  are  probably  un- 
surpassed although  the  geysers  are  less  active 
than  those  of  the  Fire  Hole. 

They  are  at  the  extreme  western  end  of  the 
western  arm  of  the  lake,  on  Shoshone  Creek,  up 
which  they  extend  for  about  half  a  mile  on  both 
sides. 

The  most  important  geyser  is  the  "  Union 
Geyser,"  so  called  because  it  combines  the  vari- 
ous forms  of  geyseric  action.  It  has  three 
vents,  each  of  which  has  built  up  a  small  cone. 
Its  eruptions  are  irregular,  the  height  being  from 
70  to  92  feet.  Its  location  is  on  the  east  side  of 
the  creek,  opposite  Quick  Run.  One  hundred 
yards  up  the  stream  on  the  same  side,  at  the 
point  of  a  hill,  are  the  "  Minute  Man  "  and  the 
"  Shield  Geyser."  The  former  has  a  beautifully 
beaded  crater  four  feet  high,  and  its  jets  reach 
an  altitude  of  from  30  to  40  feet.  The  shield 
has  an  ornamented  mound  with  a  shield-shaped 
opening.  _  Between  these  geysers  is  the  "  Rosette 
Spring  "  in  whose  shallow  waters  are  thin  leaved 
rosette-shaped  masses.  A  rocky  knoll  intervenes 
between  this  and  the  "  Bulging  Spring."  From 
the  latter,  large  bubbles  of  steam  escape  with  a 
sound  like  that  of  liquid  pouring  from  the  bung 


of  an  overturned  barrel.  Forty  feet  beyond,  is 
the  "  Soap  Kettle  "  in  which  dirty  colored  water 
is  boiling,  covered  with  foam,  looking  like  dirty 
soapsuds.  Still  farther  on  are  the  "  Black  Sul- 
phur Geyser,"  "The  Twins,"  "The  Little 
Giant,"  "The  Iron  Conch,"  "  The  Coral  Pool," 
and  a  host  of  smaller  springs,  the  description  of 
which  would  be  but  a  repetition  of  those  already 
given. 

Hot  springs  are  found  also  on  Lewis  Lake 
and  Heart  Lake,  south-east  of  Shoshone  Lake, 
and  also  doubtless  in  many  localities  yet  un- 
discovered. 

From  the  region  just  described,  we  can  retrace 
our  steps  to  the  Lower  Fire  Hole  Geyser  Basin 
from  whence  we  can  either  follow  down  the 
Madison  on  the  Virginia  City  Route,  or  return 
to  Bozeman  ;  or,  we  can  follow  the  Snake  River 
passing  Jackson's  Lake,  and  the  grand  scenery 
of  the  Teton  Mountains,  and  take  the  trail  to 
Fort  Hall,  or  crossing  through  Teton  Pass, 
go  to  the  same  place  via  Pierres  River  and 
Snake  River. 

HEIGHTS  ATTAINED  BY  THE  ERUPTIONS  OF  THE  PRINCI- 
PAL GEYSERS  IN  FIRE  HOLE  BASINS,  YELLOWSTONE 
NATIONAL  PARK. 

NAME  OF  OEYSER.  AUTHORITY.         1 

Fountain,  in  Lower  Basin,       JHayden,  1871, 

Architectural,  in  Lower  Basin, Hayden,  1871, 

Old  Faithfnl,  Upper  Basin       Hayden,  1871, 

Old  Faithful,  Upper  Basin 

Old  Faithful,  Upper  Basin 

Old  Faithful,  Upper  Basin 

Old  Faithful,  Uprjer  Basin 

Giantess,  Upper  Basin, 

Giantess,  Upper  Basin, 

Giantess,  Upper  Basin, 

Bee  Hive,  Upper  Basin, 

Bee  Hjve,  Upper  Basin, 

Bee  Hive,  Upper  Basin, 

Castle,  Upper  Basin, 

Castle,  Upper  Basin, 

Castle,  Upper  Basin, 

Castle,  Upper  Basin, 

Castle,  Upper  Basin, 

Grand,  Upper  Basin, 

Grand,  Upper  Basin, 

Grand,  Upper  Basin. 

Turban,  Upper  Basin, 

Turban,  Upper  Basin, 

Giant,  Upper  Basin, 

Grotto,  Upper  Basin, 

Grotto,  Upper  Basin, 

Grotto,  Upper  Basin, 


AUTHORITY.         HEIGHT  IN  FIIT. 

30  to  60 
60  to  80 
100  to  150 
•132 
150 
150 

100  to  150 
260 
•39 
100 
•219 

100  to  150 
100 
50 

10  to     15 
•93 
30 
250 
200 
•173 
200 
•25 
30 
140 
60 
•41 
25 


Hayden,  1872, 
Norton,   1872, 
Comstock,  1873, 
Dunraven,  1874, 
Langford,  1870, 
Hayden,  1872, 
Norton,  1872, 
Langford,  1870, 
Hayden,  1872, 
Norton,  1872. 
Langford,  1870, 
Hayden,  1871, 
Hayden,  1872, 
Comstock,  1873, 
Dunraven,  1874, 
Havden,  1871, 
Hayden,  1872, 
Comstock,  1873, 
Hayden,  1872, 
Comstock,  1873, 
Langford,  1870, 
Langford,  1870, 
Hayden,  1872, 
Comstock,  1873, 


•Measured  by  triangulatlon,  the  others  are  estimated. 

ELEVATIONS  IN  THE  YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


Mammoth  White  Mountain  Hot  Springs,  6,278  to  7,035 
Mud  Volcanoes.  7,756  to  7,800 
Crater  Hills'  Springs,  7,828  to  7,979 
Sulphur  Springs  on  divide  between  Yellow- 
stone and  East  Fork  of  Fire  Hole  River,  8,246 
Lower  Geyser  Basin,  7,250  to  7,350 
Upper  Geyser  Basin,  T.300  to  7,400 
Third  Geyser  Basin,  7,772 
Shoshone  Lake,  Geyser  Basin,  7,900 


LAKES. 


Yellowstone  Lake, 
Shoshone  Lake, 
Lewis  Lake. 
Madison  Lake, 
Henry's  Lake, 


7,788 
7,870 
7,750 
8,301 
6,443 


176 


MOUNTAIN  PEAKS. 

FEET  ABOVE   SKA  LETKL. 

Mount  Hayden,  13,833 

Mount  Washburn,  10,388 

Mount  Sheridan,  10,343 

Mount  Blackmore,  10,134 

Mount  Delano  (Yellowstone  Valley),  10,200 

Mount  Doane,  10,118 

Electric  Peak,  10,9!)2 

Emigrant  Peak,  10,629 

Red  Mountain,  south  of  Yellowstone  Lake,  9,806 

Lookout  Hill,  north  of  Shoshone  Lake,  8,257 

Old  Baldy,  near  Virginia  City,  9,711 

PASSES  AND  DIVIDES. 

Teton  Pass,  8,464 

Tyghee  Pass,  7,063 

Reynold's  Pass,  Henry's  Lake  north  to  Madison  River,  6,911 
Divide,  Yellowstone  and  Gallatin,  on  road  from  Fort 

Ellis  to  Boteler's  Ranche,  5,721 

Divide  on  Mount  Washburn  where  trail  crosses,  9,155 

Divide  between  Yellowstone  and  Madison,  on  trail 

from  Mud  Volcanoes  and  Geyser  Basins,  8,164 

Divide  between  Madison  and  Shoshone  Lakes,  8,717 

Divide  between  Yellowstone  and  Lewis  Lakes,  8,024 

Togwater  Pass,  (Upper  Yellowstone  to  Wind  River,)  9,621 

ANALYSIS  OF  DEPOSIT   FROM  THE  HOT  SPRINGS  OF  GARD- 
INER'S RIVBR. 


Water  and  volatile  matters, 

Lime, 

Silica, 

Ferric  Oxide, 

Alumina, 

Soda  and  Magnesia,  traces. 


32.10  per  cent. 
67.70  per  cent. 

3.32  per  cent. 

3.62  per  cent. 

3.31  per  cent. 


105.05 


ANALYSIS  OF  GEYSERITE  FROM  LOWER  GEYSER  BASIN. 

9.00  per  cent. 
88.60  per  cent. 
1.60  per  cent. 
0.95  per  cent. 


Water,  etc., 

Silica, 

Alumina  and  Iron, 

Lime, 

Magnesia,  Soda,  Potash  and  Lithia,  traces. 


100.15 


ANALYSIS  OF    PINK    MUD    FROM    MUD    PUFFS    IN    LOWER 
GEYSER  BASIN. 

Water,  8.65  per  cent. 

Silica,  44.61  per  cent. 

Alumina,  45.09  per  cent. 

Magnesia,  2.66  per  cent. 

Iron,  1.86  per  cent. 
Lime  and  Soda,  traces. 

102.87 

ANALYSIS  OF  GEYSERITE  FROM  UPPER  GEYSER  BASIN. 

Water,  13.42  per  cent. 

Silica,  79.56  per  cent. 

Lime,  1.54  per  cent. 

Alumina,  0.46  per  cent. 

Magnesia,  1.78  per  cent. 

Iron,  Chlorine  and  Soda,  traces.  

96.76 


ANALYSIS  OF    GEYSERITE    FROM    SHOSHONE    LAKE,  GEY- 
SER BASIN. 


Water, 

Silica, 

Alumina, 

Lime, 

Iron,  Magnesia  and  Soda,  traces. 


13.00  per  cent. 
76.80  per  cent. 

9.46  per  cent. 

1.80  per  cent. 

101.06 


The  analyses  given  above  are  from  the  Reports 
of  the  Hayden  U.  S.  Geological  Survey  of  the 
Territories. 

Great  Soda  Mountain  and  Jupiter's 
in  the  Yellowstone  Kef/ion.  —  This 
natural  curiosity  is  thus  described  by  an  artist 
who  accompanied  the  Yellowstone  Exploring  Ex- 
pedition of  Doane  and  Washburn.  Jt  is  one  of 
the  most  wonderful  institutions  the  world  can 
afford : 

"  On  the  second  day  out  from  Boteler's  Ranche 
— thirty-three  miles — we  diverge  from  the  rocky 
trail  on  the  Yellowstone,  and  after  passing  a 
short  way  up  a  creek  called  '  Gardiner's  River,' 
we  were  led  by  an  old  mountaineer  up  quite  a 
steep  mountain. 

"  Near  its  summit  an  immense  boiling  spring 
spouts  out,  by  a  number  of  mouths  and  pools, 
the  water  of  which,  as  it  flows,  precipitates  its 
soda,  sulphur  and  carbonate  of  lime  into  a  suc- 
cession of  beautiful  terraces  and  natural  bath- 
tubs, and  like  the  coral  insect,  builds  perpetually 
upon  itself,  until  we  have  before  us  a  hill  of 
snowy  soda  and  carbonate  of  lime,  which  is  from 
300  to  500  feet  in  height,  and  covers  at  least  50 
acres.  The  water  is  of  a  deep  cerulean  blue, 
and  the  temperature  averages  160  degrees.  The 
process  of  precipitation  is  very  rapid,  and  one 
can  fairly  see  it  deposited  in  beautiful  strands, 
crystals  and  geodes.  The  elevation  is  a  little 
more  than  6,000  feet  above  the  sea.  No  more 
beautiful  contrast  in  the  world  of  light  and  color 
can  be  found  for  the  artist,  than  in  this  spot 
which  is  surrounded  by  dark,  rugged  mountains, 
and  shades  oj:  yellow,  white,  amber,  pink  and 
russet  on  the  spring-hill  itself." 


m 


THE  CENTRAL  PACIFIC  R.  R. 


The  record  of  the  building  of  the  Central  Pa- 
cific Bailroad  is  a  description  of  one  of  the  great- 
est trials  of  courage  and  faith  the  -world  has  ever 
seen,  and  the  actual  results  are  one  of  the  great- 
est marvels  in  engineering  science  ever  known  in 
the  United  States.  The  heroic  strength  of  charac- 
ter, the  magnificent  power  and  endurance,  the 
financial  intrepidity  and  the  bold  daring  which 
defied  all  obstacles,  overcame  all  difficulties,  and 
literally  shoved  the  mountains  aside  to  make 
room  for  their  pathway,  are  not  equaled  by  any 
other  achievement  of  the  century.  If  ever  an 
American  can  feel  and  express  just  admiration, 
it  is  to  those  Samsons  of  the  Pacific  Coast,  who 
have  hewn  their  way  with  the  ponderous  strength 
of  their  arms,  and  with  invincible  fortitude 
opened  to  the  world  the  treasures  of  industry  in 
the  mountains  and  valleys  of  the  Far  West  and 
the  Pacific  Coast.  To  one  man,  more  than  all 
others,  is  due  the  credit  for  the  conception,  sur- 
vey and  actual  beginning  of  the  great  Trans- 
Continental  Line.  Theodore  D.  Judah — yet  he 
did  not  live  to  see  the  completion  of  the  railroad 
up  the  Sierras — and  his  successor  Mr.  S.  S.  Mon- 
tague carried  it  through  with  great  energy  and 
success,  and  to  them  the  nation  and  all  Califor- 
nia owe  a  debt  of  gratitude. 

For  years  this  brave  and  accomplished  en- 
gineer had  the  subject  of  the  road  in  his  mind. 
It  occupied  his  thoughts  by  day  and  was  the 
subject  of  his  dreams  by  night.  The  idea  took 
a  firm  hold  upon  him,  and  he  became  completely 
absorbed  in  it.  It  energized  his  whole  being  and 
he  was  persistent  and  hopeful  to  the  end.  Sac- 
ramento, then  a  much  smaller  place  than  now, 
was  the  home  of  C.  P.  Huntington  and  Mark 
Hopkins,  the  former  now  Vice-President  and  the 
latter  now  Treasurer  of  the  company,  then  hard- 
ware merchants  under  the  firm  name  of  Hunt- 
ington &  Hopkins.  Their  store  became  the 
headquarters  of  the  little  company  that  used  to 
meet  Judah  there  and  talk  over  the  enterprise. 
Judah's  ideas  were  clear,  his  plans  seemed  prac- 
ticable and  his  enthusiasm  was  contagious.  The 
men  who  associated  with  him  were  led  to  make 
contributions  for  the  purpose  of  partial  pay- 
ment toward  a  preliminary  survey,  and,  in  1860, 
Judah  and  his  assistants  wandered  over  the 
gorges  and  canons  of  the  Sierra  Nevadas  in 
search  of  a  line  for  a  railroad.  The  results  of 
his  summer's  work  were  in  every  way  encour- 
aging— so  much  so  that  other  contributions  and 


subscriptions  were  obtained  for  work  the  follow- 
ing year.  The  summer  of  1861  again  found 
Judah  and  his  party  in  the  mountains.  The 
work  of  the  previous  year  was  extended  and 
further  examination  renewed  the  hope  of  the 
engineer  and  quickened  the  zeal  of  his  followers. 
Success  was  certain  if  they  could  only  enlist  cap- 
ital in  the  enterprise. 

But  right  here  was  the  difficulty.  While  the 
great  majority  of  the  people  of  California  be- 
lieved that  the  road  would  be  built  some  day — it 
would  not  be  done  in  their  time.  Some  genera- 
tion in  the  future  might  accomplish  it,  but  it 
would  be  after  they  were  all  dead.  The  subject 
was  broached  in  Congress,  and  finally,  in  1862,  the 
bill  was  passed.  Huntington  and  Judah  went  to 
Washington  with  maps  and  charts,  and  rendered 
invaluable  assistance  to  the  friends  of  the  meas- 
ure in  both  houses  of  Congress,  and  the  day  of  its 
passage  was  the  day  of  their  triumph.  The  news 
was  sent  to  California  with  lightning  speed, 
and  caused  great  rejoicing  among  the  people. 
The  beginning  of  the  end  could  now  distinctly 
be  seen.  Though  great  difficulties  had  been 
surmounted,  a  comparatively  greater  one  lay  in 
the  way.  Capital  which  is  proverbially  timid, 
must  now  be  enlisted  in  the  enterprise.  Forty 
miles  of  road  must  be  built  and  accepted  by  the 
government,  before  the  aid  could  be  secured. 
Finally,  with  what  local  help  they  could  get,  and 
the  assistance  of  New  York  capitalists  and 
bankers,  the  work  was  begun  at  Sacramento, 
and  the  first  section  carried  the  line  high  up 
toward  the  summit  of  the  Sierras.  Their  finan- 
cial agents  in  New  York,  put  their  bonds  on  the 
market,  and  the  funds  for  the  further  extension  of 
the  road  were  rapidly  forthcoming.  Leland 
Stanford,  then  as  now  President  of  the  company, 
inaugurated  the  work  at  Sacramento,  and  also 
drove  the  silver  spike,  which  completed  the  union 
of  the  two  roads  at  Promontory  on  the  10th  day 
of  May,  1869.  The  progress  of  the  road  during 
each  year,  from  the  time  of  its  commencement 
until  its  completion,  is  given  as  follows  :  In  the 
years  1863-4-5,  the  company  completed  20  miles 
each  year.  This  might  be  called  preliminary 
work.  They  were  learning  how,  and  their 
severest  difficulties  were  to  be  overcome.  In 
1866  they  built  30  miles,  and  the  next  year  46 
miles.  Now  the  rivalry  between  the  two  great 
corporations  may  be  said  to  have  commenced  in 
earnest.  In  1868,  they  built  364,  and  in  1869,  up 
to  May  10th,  they  closed  the  gap  with  191  miles. 


178 


Difficulties,  Discouragements  and  La- 
bor.— Few  travelers  realize,  as  they  pass  so 
easily  and  pleasantly  over  this  railroad, — what  is 
represented  by  these  long,  smoothly-laid  rails, 
nor  do  they  know  of  the  early  days  of  labor,  and 
intense  energy. 

Everything  of  every  description  of  supplies  had 
to  be  shipped  by  water  from  New  York,  via  Cape 
Horn — to  San  Francisco,  and  then  inland  to 
Sacramento-.  Thus  months  of  delay  occurred  in 
obtaining  all  needful  material. 

Even  when  the  project  was  under  full  discus- 
sion at  the  little  office  in  Sacramento,  where  gath- 
ered the  six  great  brains  which  controlled  the 
destiny  of  the  enterprise,  (these  were  Governor 
Leland  Stanford,  C.  P.  Huntington,  Mark  Hop- 
kins, Charles  Crocker,  E.  B.  Crocker,  and  T. 
D.  Judah),  everybody  predicted  its  failure,  and 
few  or  none  looked  for  its  success.  Very  little 
was  known  of  the  country  it  was  to  traverse, — and 
that  not  satisfactory,  and  one  prophesied  that 
this,  the  western  end  of  the  Great  Trans-Conti- 
nental Railroad,  would  be  run  up  into  the 
clouds,  and  left  in  eternal  snows. 

Scores  of  friends  approached  Huntington  in 
those  days  and  said,  "  Huntington,  don't  go  into 
it;  you  will  bury  your  whole  fortune  in  the  Sierra 
Nevadas" 

Outsiders  called  it,  after  the  first  40  miles  were 
built,  "  The  Dutch  Flat  Swindle ;  "  and  the  pro- 
ject was  caricatured,  abused  by  the  newspapers, 
derided  by  politicians,  discountenanced  by  capi- 
talists, and  the  credit  of  every  one  was  impaired 
who  was  connected  with  it 

Thus  nobly  did  the  Californians  help  this  the 
greatest  enterprise  of  the  State,  and  how  much 
more  noble  have  they  since  been ! 

In  a  speech  before  the  Senate  Committee  of 
Congress  by  C.  P.  Huntington,  he  says  : 

"  I  suppose  that  it  is  a  fact,  the  mercantile 
credit  of  my  partners  in  business  and  myself ,  was 
positively  injured  by  our  connection  with  this 
enterprise. 

"The  difficulties  which  confronted  us  then,  ar« 
now  nearly  forgotten,  but  they  were  intensely 
vivid  and  real  then.  There  were  difficulties  from 
end  to  end ;  difficulties  from  high  and  steep 
mountains;  from  snows;  from  deserts  where 
there  was  scarcity  of  water,  and  from  gorges  and 
flats  where  there  was  an  excess  ;  difficulties  from 
cold  and  from  heat,  from  a  scarcity  of  timber 
and  from  obstructions  of  rock  ;  difficulties  in 
supplying  a  large  force  on  a  long  line;  from  In- 
dians and  want  of  laborers." 

Of  the  princely  subsidies  voted  by  the  United 
States  in  its  government  bonds  to  aid  the  road — 
what  was  the  real  case?  From  the  individual 
and  private  means  of  the  five  capitalists,  they 
were  compelled  to  support  a  force  of  800  men 
one  year— at  their  own  risks— build  40  miles 
before  they  were  entitled  to  the  government 
bonds,  and  then  were  eleven  months  delayed  in 


receiving  what  was  their  due.  To  build  the  first 
section  of  the  road  to  the  mountains,  they  were 
obliged  to  call  in  private  means,  which  out  on 
loan  was  yielding  them  two  per  cent,  interest  in 
gold,  per  month — invest  in  the  road  and  wait 
for  reimbursement.  When  the  government 
bonds  were  at  last  received,  they  vested  into 
gold  at  the  high  rate  of  premium  then  prevail- 
ing, (often  taking  $2  in  bonds  to  buy  $1.00  in 
gold)  to  pay  for  labor  and  expense  of  construc- 
tion, which,  too,  were  excessively  high  for  gold 
prices. 

The  personal  dangers  of   the  builders  were 

freat.  The  very  surveyors  ran  the  risk  of  being 
illed  by  Indians,  and  some  of  them  were ;  the 
grading  parties,  at  times,  could  only  work  under 
military  guard  ;  at  all  times  all  the  track-layers 
and  the  train  hands  had  to  be  armed,  and  even 
after  construction  the  trains  were  often  attacked. 
The  first  100  miles  was  up  a  total  ascent  of 
7,000  feet,  requiring  the  most  skillful  engineer- 
ing and  expenditures  of  vast  sums  of  money  in 
excavation.  At  the  height  of  5,000  feet,  the  snow 
line  was  reached,  and  40  miles  of  snow  galleries 
had  to  be  erected,  at  an  additional  expense  of 
$20,000  to  $30,000  per  mile,  and  for  a  mile  or 
more,  in  many  places,  these  must  be  made  so 
strong  that  avalanches  might  pass  over  them  and 
yet  preserve  the  safety  of  the  track.  Even  after 
passing  the  Sierras,  the  railroad  descended  into 
a  vast  plain,  dry,  sere  and  deserted,  where  there 
was  not  a  sign  of  civilized  life,  nor  any  fuel. 
For  over  600  miles  of  the  route,  there  was  not  a 
single  white  inhabitant.  For  over  100  miles  at  a 
stretch,  no  water  could  be  found  for  either  man 
or  machinery ;  and,  even  at  the  present  day,  in 
many  places  the  railroad  company  is  obliged  to 
bring  its  water  in  artificial  pipes  for  distances  of 
one  to  fifteen  miles  for  the  use  of  the  engines. 

Labor  was  almost  impossible  to  get,  and  when 
attained  was  almost  impossible  to  control,  until 
the  Chinese  arrived,  and  to  them  is  due  the  real 
credit  of  the  greatest  help  the  road  possessed. 
Powder  was  one  of  the  heaviest  items  of  ex- 
pense, which  before  the  rise  in  prices  of  the  war, 
could  have  been  had  for  $2.25  per  keg — but  then 
was  obtained  with  difficulty  at  $5.00.  Locomo- 
tives, cars,  tools,  all  were  bought  at  double  prices. 
Rails,  now  worth  but  $40.00  to  $50.00  per  ton, 
then  cost  $80.00  to  $150.00. 

Every  bar  of  iron  and  every  tool  had  first  to 
be  bought  and  started  on  a  sea  voyage  round 
Cape  Horn,  some  four  or  six  months  before  it 
was  needed. 

Insurance  on  the  sea  voyages  rose  from  2  1-2 
to  10  per  cent. — freights  increased  from  $18.00  to 
$45.00  per  ton. 

Of  the  engineering  difficulties  of  the  con- 
struction on  the  Sierras,  none  can  form  a  possi- 
ble idea.  A  culvert  would  be  built,  the  begin- 
ning of  which  was  on  the  grade,  while  the  other 
end  would  be  50  feet  or  more  below.  At  another 


179 


place  is  a  bank  80  to  100  feet  in  height,  covering 
a  culvert  250  feet  in  length,  then  comes  a  bridge 
leaping  a  chasm  of  150  feet  in  depth. 

Next  a  cut  of  hardest  granite,  where,  in  the 
short  space  of  250  feet,  would  be  working  30 
carts  and  250  workmen,  thick  as  bees — while 
a  little  beyond  is  an  embankment  built  up  80 
feet,  from  whose  top  you  can  look  down  1,000 
feet. 

The  famous  Summit  Tunnel  is  1,659  feet  in 
length,  cut  through  solid  granite,  and  for  a  mile 
on  either  side  there  are  rock  cuttings  of  the  most 
stupendous  character,  and  the  railroad  is  cut 
directly  in  the  face  of  a  precipice.  The  powder 
bill  alone  for  one  month  was  $54,000.  Blasting 
was  done  three  times  per  day,  and  sometimes  of 
extraordinary  execution.  A  hole  of  eight  feet 
was  once  drilled  and  fired,  and  1,440  yards  of 
granite  were  thrown  clear  from  the  road-bed. 
Several  more  holes  of  same  depth 
were  drilled  into  a  seam  in  the  rock, 
which  were  lightly  loaded  and  ex- 
ploded until  a  large  fissure  was  opened, 
when  an  immense  charge  was  put 
in,  set  off,  and  3,000  tons  of  granite 
went  whirling  down  the  mountain, 
tearing  up  trees,  rocks,  etc.,  with 
fearful  havoc.  One  rock,  weighing  70 
pounds,  was  blown  one-third  of  a  mile 
away  from  its  bed,  while  another 
of  240  pounds  was  blown  entirely 
across  Donner  Lake,  a  distance  of  two- 
thirds  of  a  mile.  At  one  place,  near 
Donner's  Backbone,  the  railroad  track 
is  so  constructed  that  it  describes  a 
curve  of  180°,  and  runs  back  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  ridge  only  a  few 
feet  parallel  to  the  course  it  has  fol- 
lowed to  the  point,  all  at  a  grade  of  90 
feet  to  the  mile. 

But  it  is  impossible  to  tell  all  the  won- 
ders of  engineering,  or  the  feats  of  skill ; 
let  active  eyes  watch  the  scene  as  the 
traveler  passes  over  the  railroad,  and  then  give 
due  credit  and  admiration  to  the  pluck,  skill, 
persistence  and  faith  which  has  accomplished 
so  much,  and  been  productive  of  so  much 
good. 

The  little  beginning,  in  1860,  has  now  given 
place  to  the  most  astonishing  enterprise  of  mod- 
ern times.  The  pay-roll  of  the  Central  Pacific 
Railroad  Company  now  exceeds  10,000  names 
of  employes.  The  Southern  Pacific  Railroad, 
another  grand  enterprise,  controlled  by  the 
same  company,  is  building  its  road  rapidly 
toward  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  All  the  import- 
ant railroads  and  steamboats  of  California 
are  now  controlled  by  these  gigantic  cor- 
porations, and  from  the  latest  reports  we 
quote  figures  of  the  financial  capital  of  one 
of  the  greatest  corporations  in  the  United 
States: 


CENTRAL  PACITIC  RAILROAD  COMPANY. 

Authorized  Capital  Stock $100,000,000.00 

Capital  Stock  paid  in 64,275.500  00 

Funded  Debt 62,961,337.10 

United  States  Subsidy  Bonds 27,855,680.00 

Farming  Lands,  estimated  value 30.0UO.OOO.OO 

Lands  in  San  Francisco,  Oakland  and  Sacra- 
mento        7,750,000.00 


Total  assets $188,631,661.10 

Number  of  miles  constructed 1.407  46 

Number  of  miles  operated 2,500.00 

SOUTHERN  PACIFIC  RAILROAD  COMPANY. 

Authorized  Capital  Stock $90,000,000  00 

Capital  Stock  paid  in 36,763,900.00 

Farming  Lands,  estimated  value b9  267,362.00 


Totalassets $113,298,852.89 

Number  of  miles  completed  and  in  operation 711.57 

SOUTHERN  PACIFIC  RAILROAD  OF  ARIZONA. 

Capital  Stock  $20,000,000.00 

Bonds 10,000,000.00 

SOUTHERN  PACIFIC  RAILROAD  OF  NEW  MEXICO. 

Capital  Stock $10,000,000.00 

Bonds 6,000.000.00 


SILVER  PALACE  CAB,  C.  P.  K.  R. 

Westward  to  San  Francisco. 

Travelers  from  the  East,  after  dining  at  Ogden 
and  having  an  hour  in  which  to  re-check  their 
baggage,  will  board  a  train  of  silver  palace  cars 
belonging  to  the  Central  Pacific,  in  the  evening, 
as  the  trains  now  run,  and  will  soon  be  whirling 
away  across  the  Great  American  Desert.  As  we 
pass  out  of  the  suburbs  of  Ogden,  we  cross  Og- 
den River  on  a  pile  bridge,  and  leave  it  to  pur- 
sue its  turbulent  way  to  the  lake.  We  soon  ar- 
rive at  the  point  of  junction  before  alluded  to, 
but  find  no  magnificent  hotel,  or  other  buildings, 
or  any  evidence  of  any.  "  Union  Junction  "  is 
therefore  a  myth,  and  exists  only  in  the  fertile 
imagination.  The  land,  such  as  it  is,  however, 
is  there,  and  we  soon  pass  the  steaming  Hot 
Springs  on  the  right  of  the  road  and  close  to  the 
track.  These  springs  are  said  to  be  both  iron 


180 


and  sulphur,  and  from  the  red  sediment  which 
has  been  deposited  over  quite  an  area  of  surface 
near  by,  we  judge  that  the  iron  springs  predom- 
inate. Since  leaving  Weber  Canon  we  have  come 
nearly  north  and  will  continue  in  that  direction 
until  we  approach  Corinne.  On  our  right  are 
the  towering  peaks  of  the  Wahsatch  in  close 
proximity.  On  our  left  are  the  irrigating  ditches 
that  supply  the  farms  with  water,  an  increas- 
ing growth  of  underbrush  off  toward  the  lake, 
and  Fremont's  Island  in  the  distance  with  a 
towering  rock, 
looking  like  a 
huge  castle, 
upon  one  ex- 
tremity of  it. 
We  soon  pass 
a  little  town 
called  North 
Ogden,  at  a 
canon  through 
the  mountains, 
which  is  some- 
times called  Og- 
den  Hole,  or 
North  Ogden 
Canon.  Before 
the  road  was 
built  through 
Ogden  Canon 
proper,  this  was 
the  nearest 
source  of  com- 
munication 
with  the  valley 
the  other  side  of 
the  mountains. 
There  are  about 
nine  miles  of 
straight  track 
here  and  we 
soon  arrive  at 

Bonneville 
—  871  miles 
from  San  Fran- 
cisco, with  an 
elevation  of 
4,310  feet.  It 
is  merely  a  side 
track.  The 
Mormons  have 
some  fine  farms  in  this  vicinity,  and  between  the 
railroad  and  base  of  the  mountains  there  are 
many  cultivated  fields  and  fine  orchards  of  apple 
and  peach  trees.  There  are  frequent  canons 
through  the  range,  at  the  mouth  of  which  are 
little  settlements  or  villages ;  the  creeks  from  the 
canons  supplying  the  water  which  irrigates  their 
fields,  gardens  and  orchards.  The  largest  of 
these  settlements  or  villages  are  called  Willard 
City  and  Brigham  City,  and  their  business  is  now 
done  almost  exclusively  with  the  Utah  North- 


SHOSHONE  INDIAN  VILLAGE. 


ern  Railroad,  which  runs  parallel  with  the  Cen- 
tral Pacific  between  Ogden  and  Corinne  and  near- 
er the  base  of  the  mountains.  The  next  station  is 
Brigham, — 816  miles  from  San  Francisco ; 
elevation,  4,220  feet.  A  side  track  for  the  pass- 
ing of  trains.  It  is  the  station  for  Brigham 
City,  which  is  some  three  miles  away,  though  it 
does  not  look  half  that  distance.  It  is  the 
county-seat  of  Box  Elder  County,  and  has  a 
population  of  2,000.  Leaving  this  station  we 
cross  some  alkali  marshes  near,  and  also  an 

arm  of  the  lake 
or  small  bay, 
with  the  east- 
ern part  of  the 
Great  Salt 
Sea  in  full 
view,  •with 
Promontory 
Mountains  be- 
y  o  n  d .  A  p  - 
preaching  Co- 
rinne we  enter 
the  celebrated 
Bear  River  Val- 
ley, crossing 
the  Bear  River. 
Before  reach- 
ing the  bridge 
the  train  cross- 
es 896  feet  of 
piling.  There 
is  a  "  straining 
beam  "  bridge 
of  40  feet,  and 
a  Howe  truss 
bridge  of  181 
feet  4  inches. 

Corinne — 
809  miles  from 
San  Francisco, 
with  an  eleva- 
tion of  4,294 
feet.  It  is  the 
largest  Gentile 
town  in  the 
Territory,  and 
if  not  hated  is 
cordially  and 
effectually  let 
alone  by  most 
of  the  Mormons  in  the  surrounding  settle- 
ments. The  natural  location  is  excellent,  and 
when  the  thousands  of  acres  of  fertile  lands  in 
the  Bear  River  Valley  are  settled,  as  they  sure- 
ly will  be  in  time,  Corinne  will  be  the  center  of 
trade  and  influence  to  which  her  location  enti- 
tles her.  On  the  completion  of  the  railroad 
through  here — before  it  came,  even — the  Gen- 
tiles had  taken  possession  of  the  town  and  deter- 
mined to  maintain  an  ascendency.  From  that 
time  it  has  been  an  object  of  defamation  by  the 


181 


Saints;  and  the  lands  in  the  broad  valley  which 
surround  it,  as  rich  as  any  in  the  Territory,  are 
left  with  scarcely  a  settler. 

These  lands  are  not  all  occupied  by  settlers. 
The  advantage  of  soil  and  climate  are  to  be  set 
over  against  the  want  of  water,  for  irrigation 
is  essential  to  good  crops.  A  ditch  has  already 
been  dug  from  Malad  River,  which  supplies 
some  farms  on  its  line,  and  the  town  with  water. 
A  large  flouring-mill  is  also  supplied  with 
water  from  this  ditch. 

Some  of  the  finest  wheat  we  ever  saw  was 
raised  near  Corinne,  on  irrigated  land.  It  was 
spring  wheat  and  produced  at  the  rate  of  nearly 
fifty  bushels  to  the  acre.  The  spring  wheat  of 


UTE    SQUAW  AND  PAPPOOSE. 

Utah  far  excels  in  quality  the  best  winter 
Tfrheat  produced  in  Eastern  States.  It  has  a 
large,  plump,  hard,  white  berry,  and  will 
rank  as  A  No.  1  in  any  wheat  market  in  the 
country. 

Corinne  in  its  early  history  was  "  a  rough 
town,"^  but  the  roughs  have  passed  on,  or 
sleep  in  unknown  graves.  The  town  now 
has  three  churches,  a  good  school,  a  large 
flouring-mill,  several  commission  and  for- 
warding houses,  stores  of  various  kinds,  etc. 
It  was  the  freighting  point  to  eastern  Idaho 
and  Montana  before  the  Utah  and  Northern 
Railroad  was  built.  It  was  for  a  time  the 
terminus  of  this  road,  and  since  the  change 
of  terminus  to  Ogden,  the  place  has  materially 
declined.  It  is  about  seven  miles  from  Great 
Salt  Lake. 

There  are  quite    a  number    of   hotels    and 


public  boarding-houses  for  the  accommodation 
of  guests,  the  leading  house,  a  brick  structure, 
being  the  "Central."  Bear  River  abounds 
in  fish,  and  in  the  proper  season  the  sloughs 
and  marshes  bordering  the  river  near  the  lake 
are  almost  covered  with  ducks  and  wild 
geese,  thus  offering  fine  sport  for  the  hunter 
and  fisherman.  The  water-lines  of  the  lake 
become,  as  we  pass  westward  toward  the 
mountains  of  the  Promontory  Range,  visible 
high  up  on  the  side  of  the  mountains.  There 
are  three  distinct  water-lines  to  be  seen  in 
some  places  near  Ogden,  and  each  one  has  left 
a  bench  or  terrace  of  land  or  rock  by  which 
it  may  be  traced.  The  great  basin  is  full  of 
wonders,  and  no  richer  field  on  the  Continent 
awaits  scientific  examination  than  this.  Alkali 
beds,  salt  deposits,  and  the  detestable  water 
found  in  them  will  attract  the  eye  as  we  go  on, 
and  soon  we  pass 

Quarry — a  side  track,  with  a  huge,  rocky, 
black  castle  on  the  right  and  back  of  it.  Trains 
do  not  stop  here,  nor  is  the  station  dowa  on 
the  advertised  time-cards.  The  mountain  on 
our  right  is  called  Little  Mountain,  and  rises 
solitary  and  alone  out  of  the  plain.  Aa  we 
pass  beyond  and  look  back,  an  oval-shaped 
dome  rises  from  its  northern  end  as  the  turret 
of  a  castle.  Salt  Creek  rises  in  the  valley 
above,  and  sinks  into  the  sand  on.  its  way  to 
the  lake. 

Blue  Creek — 789  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
with  an  elevation  of  4,379  feet.  It  is  a  tele- 
graph station  with  a  side  track  and  turn-table. 
If  we  have  a  heavy  train  a  helper  engine  is 
here  awaiting  our  arrival,  and  will  assist  in 
pulling  us  up  the  hill  to  Promontoiy.  Between 
this  and  the  next  station,  are  some  very  heavy 
grades,  short  curves  and  deep  rocky  cuts,  with 
fills  across  ravines.  Blue  Creek  comes  rushing 
down  from  the  mountains,  and  furnishes  water 
for  several  stations  along  the  road.  Leaving 
this  station  we  begin  to  climb  around  a  curve 
and  up  the  side  of  the  Promontory  Range,  the 
road  almost  doubling  back  on  itself.  The  old 
grade  of  the  Union  Pacific  is  crossed  and  re- 
crossed  in  several  places,  and  is  only  a  short 
distance  away. 

As  we  wind  into  the  depressions  and  round 
the  points,  gradually  ascending  to  the  summit 
of  the  divide,  the  view  of  the  lake,  Corinne, 
Ogden  and  the  Wahsatch  Mountains,  is  grand. 
The  maximum  grade  between  Blue  Creek  and 
Promontory  is  89.76  feet.  We  pass  the  rock 
cuts  where  each  road  expended^  thousands  of 
dollars,  and  where  Bishop  John  Sharp,  now 
President  of  the  Utah  Central,  exploded  a  mine 
which  lifted  the  rock  completely  out,  and 
gave  a  clear  track  after  the  loose  earth  was  re- 
moved. 

Promontory. — 780  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco; elevation,  4,905  feet.  It  is  about  9  miles 


182 


from  Blue  Creek,  and  in  the  first  seven  miles  we 
ascend  over  500  feet.  While  the  road  was  under 
construction,  this  little  place  was  quite  lively, 
but  its  glory  has  departed,  and  its  importance  at 
this  time,  is  chiefly  historic.  It  has  a  very  well- 
kept  eating-house  for  railroad  and  train  men, 
and  large  coal-sheds  with  a  three-stall  round- 
house and  other  buildings  for  the  convenience  oi 
employes.  The  water  used  here  is  brought 
from  Blue  Creek.  It  is  located  between  two 
peaks  or  ridges  of  the  Promontory  Range,  one  of 
which  on  the  left,  is  covered  with  cedars,  and  a 
portion  of  the  year  crowned  with  snow. 

This  place  is  well  known  as  the  meeting  of  the 
two  railroads. 

The  highest  point  on  the  left,  is  called  "  Peak  " 
on  Froiseth's  Map  of  Utah,  and  from  its  summit  a 
magnificent  view  of  the  lake  and  surrounding 
country  can  be  obtained. 

The  Great  Railroad  Wedding — Driving 
the  Last  Spike. 

American  history,  in  its  triumphs  of  skill, 
labor  and  genius,  knows  no  event  of  greater, 
thrilling  interest,  than  the  scene  which  attended 
the  drivingpf  the  last  spike,  which  united  the 
East  and  west  with  the  bands  of  iron.  First 
of  great  enterprises  since  the  world's  known 
history  began — that  gigantic  task  of  join- 
ing the  two  great  oceans  with  bands  of 
steel,  over  which  thousands  of  iron  mon- 
sters are  destined  to  labor  for  unnumbered 
years,  bearing  to  this  young  country  con- 
tinued wealth  and  prosperity.  The  comple- 
tion of  a  project  so  grand  in  conception,  so 
successful  in  execution,  and  likely  to  prove  so 
fruitful  and  rich  in  promise,  was  worthy  of 
world-wide  celebrity. 

Upon  the  10th  of  May,  1869,  the  rival  roads 
approached  each  other,  and  two  lengths  of  rails 
were  left  for  the  day's  work.  At  8  A.  M.,  spec- 
tators began  to  arrive;  at  quarter  to  9  A.  M., 
the  whistle  of  the  Central  Pacific  Railroad  is 
heard,  and  the  first  train  arrives,  bringing  a  large 
number  of  passengers.  Then  two  additional 
trains  arrive  ou  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad,  from 
the  East.  At  a  quarter  of  11  A.  M.,  the  Chinese 
workmen  commenced  leveling  the  bed  of  the 
road,  with  picks  and  shovels,  preparatory  to 
placing  the  ties.  At  a  quarter  past  eleven  the 
Governor's  train  (Governor  Stanford)  arrived. 
The  engine  was  gaily  decorated  with  little  flags 
and  ribbons — the  red  white  and  blue.  The  last 
tie  is  put  in  place — eight  feet  long,  eight  inches 
wide,  and  six  inches  thick.  It  was  made  of  Cal- 
ifornia laurel,  finely  polished,  and  ornamented 
wiMi  a  silver  escutcheon,  bearing  the  following 
-inscription : 

*  The  last  tie  laid  on  the  Pacific  Railroad,  May 
\0,  1869." 

Then   follow  the  names  of  the  directors  and 


officers  of  the  Central  Pacific  Company,  and  of 
the  presenter  of  the  tie. 

The  exact  point  of  contact  of  the  road  was 
1,085.8  miles  west  from  Omaha,  which  allowed 
690  miles  to  the  Central  Pacific  Railroad,  for 
Sacramento,  for  their  portion  of  the  work.  The 
engine  Jupiter,  of  the  Central  Pacific  Railroad, 
and  the  engine  119  of  the  Union  Pacific  Rail 
road,  moved  up  to  within  30  feet  of  each  other. 

Just  before  noon  the  announcement  was  sent 
to  Washington,  that  the  driving  of  the  last  spike 
of  the  railroad  which  connected  the  Atlantic 
and  Pacific,  would  be  communicated  to  all  the 
telegraph  offices  in  the  country  the  instant 
the  work  was  done,  and  instantly  a  large  crowd 
gathered  around  the  offices  of  the  Western 
Union  Telegraph  Company  to  receive  the  wel- 
come news. 

The  manager  of  the  company  placed  a  mag- 
netic ball  in  a  conspicuous  position,  where  all 
present  could  witness  the  performance,  and  con- 
nected the  same  with  the  main  lines,  notifying 
the  various  offices  of  the  country  that  he  was 
ready.  New  Orleans,  New  York  and  Boston  in- 
stantly answered  "  Ready." 

In  San  Francisco,  the  wires  were  connected 
with  the  fire-alarm  in  the  tower,  where  the  heavy 
ring  of  the  bell  might  spread  the  news  immedi- 
ately over  the  city,  as  quick  as  the  event  was 
completed. 

Waiting  for  some  time  in  impatience,  at  last 
came  this  message  from  Promontory  Point,  at 
2.27  P.  M.  : 

"  A  Imosl  ready.  Hals  off,  prayer  is  being  of- 
fered." 

A  silence  for  the  prayer  ensued  ;  at  2.40  p.  M., 
the  bell  tapped  again,  and  the  officer  at  Promon- 
tory said  : 

"  We  have  got  done  praying,  the  spike  is  about 
to  be  presented." 

Chicago  replied :  "  We  understand,  all  are 
ready  in  the  East." 

From  Promontory  Point.  "All  ready  now; 
the  spike  will  soon  be  driven.  The  signal  will  be 
three  dots  for  the  commencement  of  the  blows." 

For  a  moment  the  instrument  was  silent,  and 
then  the  hammer  of  the  magnet  tapped  the  bell, 
one,  two,  three,  the  signal.  Another  pause  of  a 
few  seconds,  and  the  lightning  came  flashing 
eastward,  2,400  miles  to  Washington ;  and  the 
blows  of  the  hammer  on  the  spike  were  repeated 
instantly  in  telegraphic  accents  upon  the  bell  of 
the  Capitol.  At  2.47  P.  M.,  Promontory  Point 
gave  the  signal,  "  Done  ;  "  and  the  great  Amer- 
ican Continent  was  successfully  spanned. 
Immediately  thereafter,  flashed  over  the  line, 
the  following  official  announcement  to  the  As- 
sociated Press : 

Promontory    Summit,   Utah,   May    10. — THE 

LAST      KAIL   "l8     LAII>!       THK     LAST     SPIKE     18 

DitiVFx !      THK    PACIFIC   RAILUOAD   is   COM- 
JPLKTKD  1     The  pohit  of  junction  is  1,086  miles  west 


THK   GREAT   RAILROAD  WEDDING 
I—Driving  the  last  Spike.    2.-Union  of  the  East  and  West.    3.-First  Whistle  of  the  Iron  Horse. 


* 

rf 


184 


vfthe  Missouri  River,  and  690  miles  east  of  Sacra- 
tnento  City. 

LELAND  STANFORD, 

Central  Pacific  Railroad. 

T.  C.  DURANT,       ~) 

SIDNEY  DILLON,  >  Union  Pacific  Railroad. 
JOHN  DUFF,          ) 

Such  were  the  telegraphic  incidents  that  at- 
tended the  completion  of  the  greatest  work  of  the 
age, — but  during  these  few  expectant  moments, 
the  scene  itself  at  Promontory  Point,  was  very 
impressive. 

After  the  rival  engines  had  moved  up  toward 
each  other,  a  call  was  made  for  the  people  to 
stand  back,  in  order  that  all  might  have  a 
chance  to  see.  Prayer  was  offered  by  Rev.  Dr. 
Todd  of  Massachusetts.  Brief  remarks  were 
then  made  by  General  Dodge  and  Governor 
Stanford.  Three  cheers  were  given  i*or  the 
Government  of  the  United  States,  for  the  Rail- 
road, for  the  Presidents,  for  the  Star  Spangled 
Banner,  for  the  Laborers,  and  for  those  respec- 
tively, who  furnished  the  means.  Four  spikes 
were  then  furnished, — two  gold  and  two  silver, — 
by  Montana,  Idaho,  California,  and  Nevada. 
They  were  each  about  seven  inches  long,  and  a 
little  larger  than  the  iron  spike. 

Dr.  Harkness,  of  Sacramento,  in  presenting  to 
Governor  Stanford  a  spike  of  pure  gold,  delivered 
a  short  and  appropriate  speech. 

The  Hon.  F.  A.  Tritle,  of  Nevada,  presented 
Dr.  Durant  with  a  spike  of  silver,  saying:  "  To 
the  iron  of  the  East,  and  the  gold  of  the  West,  Ne- 
vada adds  her  link  of  silver  to  span  the  Continent 
and  weld  the  oceans." 

Governor  Safford,  of  Arizona,  presenting 
another  spike,  said  :  "  Ribbed  in  iron,  clad  in 
silver,  and  crowned  with  gold,  Arizona  presents  her 
offering  to  the  enterprise  that  has  banded  the  Conti- 
nent and  welded  the  oceans." 

Dr.  Durant  stood  on  the  north  side  of  the  tie, 
and  Governor  Stanford  on  the  south  side.  At  a 
given  signal,  these  gentlemen  struck  the  spikes, 
and  at  the  same  instant  the  electric  spark  was 
sent  through  the  wires,  east  and  west.  The  two 
locomotives  moved  up  until  they  touched  each 
other,  and  a  bottle  of  wine  was  poured,  as  a  liba- 
tion on  the  last  rail. 

A  number  of  ladies  graced  the  ceremonies  with 
their  presence,  and  at  1  p.  M.,  under  an  almost 
cloudless  sky,  and  in  the  presence  of  about  one 
thousand  one  hundred  people,  the  greatest  railroad 
on  earth  was  completed. 

A  sumptuous  repast  was  given  to  all  the  guests 
and  railroad  officers,  and  toward  evening  the 
trains  each  moved  away  and  darkness  fell  upon 
the  scene  of  joy  and  triumph. 

Immediately  after  the  ceremonies,  the  laurel 
tie  was  removed  for  preservation,  and  in  its 
place  an  ordinary  one  substituted.  Scarcely  had 
it  been  put  in  its  place,  before  a  grand  advance 


was  made  upon  it  by  the  curiosity  seekers  and 
relic  hunters  and  divided  into  numberless  me- 
mentoes, and  as  fast  as  each  tie  was  demolished 
and  a  new  one  substituted,  this,  too,  shared  the 
same  fate,  and  probably  within  the  first  six 
months,  there  were  used  as  many  new  ties.  It  is 
said  that  even  one  of  the  rails  did  not  escape  the 
grand  battery  of  knife  and  hack,  and  the  first 
one  had  soon  to  be  removed  to  give  place  to 
another. 

A  curious  incident,  connected  with  the  laying 
of  the  last  rails,  has  been  little  noticed  hitherto. 
Two  lengths  of  rails,  56  feet,  had  been  omitted. 
The  Union  Pacific  people  brought  up  their  pair 
of  rai  3,  and  the  work  of  placing  them  was  done 
by  iUvopeans.  The  Central  Pacific  people  then 
laid  fciuir  pair  of  rails,  the  labor  being  performed 
by  Mongolians.  The  foremen,  in  both  cases,  were 
A"mericans.  Here,  near  the  center  of  the  great 
American  Continent,  were  representatives  of 
Asia,  Europe  and  America — America  directing 
and  controlling. 

It  is  somewhat  unfortunate  that  all  the  scenes 
which  characterize  this  place  of  meeting  are 
passed  over  by  the  railroad  trains  at  night,  and 
travelers  can  not  catch  even  a  glimpse. 

Leaving  Promontory,  a  sugar-loaf  peak  rises 
on  our  right,  and,  as  we  near  it,  the  lake  again 
comes  into  view,  looking  like  a  green  meadow  in 
the  distance.  About  three  miles  west  of  the 
station,  on  the  left  side  of  the  track,  a  sign-board 
has  been  erected,  stating  that  10  miles  of  track 
were  here  laid  in  one  day.  Ten  miles  farther 
west  a  similar  sign-board  appears.  This  track 
was  laid  on  the  29th  of  April,  1869,  and,  so  far 
as  known,  is  the  largest  number  of  miles  ever 
laid  in  one  day.  (For  a  full  description,  see 
page  13.)  After  passing  Promontory  about 
three  miles,  the  grade  is  71.28  feet  descending 
toward  the  West,  and  this  is  the  steepest  grade 
for  a  considerable  distance.  The  maximum 
continues  for  more  than  a  mile  in  one  place. 

Rozel — an  unimportant  station,  where  trains 
meet  and  pass; but  passenger  trains  do  not  stop 
unless  signaled.  The  lake  can  now  be  seen  for 
a  long  distance,  and  in  a  clear  day,  with  a  good 
glass,  the  view  is  magnificent.  Still  crossing  a 
sage  brush  plain,  with  occasional  alkali  patches, 
closing  in  upon  the  shore  at  times,  we  soon  ar- 
rive at 

Lake. — There  is  an  open  plain  to  the  north 
of  these  two  stations,  and  north  of  Bozel  espe- 
cially, are  salt  wells.  Between  these  two  sta- 
tions the  second  sign-board  close  to  the  track, 
showing  the  western  limit  of  the  ten  miles  of 
track  laid  in  one  day,  is  seen.  North  of  Lake 
Station  about  three  miles,  are  Cedar  Springs, 
near  which  a  great  deal  of  wood  was  obtained 
for  the  construction  of  the  road.  Leaving  this 
station  we  pass  across  flats  and  marshes,  with 
the  old  Union  Pacific  grade  still  well  preserved, 
on  our  left.  In  places,  however,  it  is  partially 


185 


SALT  LAKE  FROM  MONUMENT  POINT. 


MONUMENT  POINT  FROM  SALT  LAKE. 


washed  away  by  the  waves  of  the  lake.  Next 
comes 

Monument — 756  miles  from  San  Francisco  ; 
elevation,  4,227  feet.  An  isolated  rock  rises 
like  a  monument  in  the  lake  on  the  left, 
while  the  hill  on  the  right  is  crowned  with 
turrets  and  projecting  domes.  You  have  here 
a  grand  view  of  the  lake,  its  islands  and  shores, 
with  promontories,  etc.,  which  is  correctly 
represented  by  our  artist.  The  station  itself 
is  a  mere  side  track  and  "Y,"  for  the  con- 
venience of  the  road.  When  the  strong  south 
wind  blows,  the  waves,  dashing  against  the 
rocks  on  the  shore,  and  the  rolling  white  caps 
in  the  distance,  form  a  beautiful  view,  which 
the  tourist,  after  passing  the  dreary  waste,  will 
appreciate.  The  road  now  turns  to  the  right, 
and  the  view  of  the  lake  is  shut  out  by  a 
low  hill  that  intervenes.  On  the  west  side 
of  this  hill  are  the  Locomotive  Springs,  which 
puff  out  steam  at  times,  and  which  gives  them 
their  names.  Next  we  pass 

Seco — which  is  an  unimportant  station  in 
the  midst  of  sage  plains,  and  soon  arrive  at 

Kelton — 741  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with 
an  elevation  ot  4,223  feet.  The  town  is  located 
at  the  northwest  corner  of  Salt  Lake,  and  about 
two  miles  from  it,  with  low  marshes  and 
sloughs  intervening.  This  is  a  stage  station, 
and  passengers  for  Boise  City  and  other  points 
in  Idaho,  and  points  in  Oregon  as  far  as  Dal- 
las, will  here  leave  the  train  and  secure  seats  in 
the  coaches  of  the  stage  line.  The  shipping  of 


freight  for  Idaho,  and  the  fact  that  it  is  the  ter- 
minus of  the  stage  line,  are  the  principal  causes 
for  the  growth  and  business  of  this  place.  It 
has  a  fair  hotel,  several  stores,  the  usual  num- 
ber of  saloons,  and  corrals  for  stock  used  in 
freighting.  In  1875  six  million  pounds  of 
freight  were  shipped  from  this  place  to  Idaho, 
or  about  three  thousand  tons.  In  1880  the 
shipment  was  five  million  three  hundred  and 
fifty-eight  thousand  four  hundred  and  twenty 
pounds,  while  Idaho  returned  in  wool,  hides, 
etc.,  one  million  six  hundred  and  ten  thousand 
one  hundred  and  ten  pounds.  The  apparent 
loss  is  due  to  the  fact  that  much  of  the  freight 
is  now  sent  via  the  Utah  and  Northern  Rail- 
road. Seven  miles  north  of  the  town,  at  the 
foot  of  the  mountains,  are  springs  of  clear, 
fresh  water,  from  which  water  is  conveyed  for 
the  use  of  the  railroad  and  inhabitants.  There 
is  a  good  deal  of  stock  grazed  in  the  vicinity 
of  this  station,  which  feed  on  sage  brush  in 
the  winter  and  such  grass  as  they  get,  but  find 
good  grazing  in  the  summer.  The  surplus  cattle 
are  shipped  to  the  markets  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 

In  this  region  tourists  will  find  much  to  please 
them.  Placid  valleys  basking  in  the  sunshine, 
with  gigantic  snow-clad  mountains  towering  in 
the  background;  dashing  rivers,  with  water- 
falls 200  feet  high — among  these  the  great 
Shoshone,  of  Snake  River,  called  the  "  Western 
Niagara";  lakes  amid  the  mountain-tops,  with 
fish  disporting  in  their  depths,  with  waterfowl 
covering  their  surfaces;  with  forests  inhabited 


187 


by  the  elk,  deer,  mountain  sheep,  goat  and 
bear — are  all  here. 

Tourists  will  also  bear  in  mind,  that  this  is 
the  station  nearest  to  the  great  Shoshone  Falls. 
These  falls  are  110  miles  from  Kelton.  Passen- 
gers from  the  east  will  arrive  at  about  10  o'clock 
p.  M.,  and  stay  all  night.  Passengers  from  the 
west  will  arrive  at  about  two  o'clock  A.  M.  The 
next  morning  they  will  take  the  stage 
run  by  the  North-western  Stage  Company,  100 
miles  to  Rock  Creek  Station,  which  are  made 
over  good  roads  in  twelve  hours.  Here  you  will 
stay  over  night,  and  take  a  team  the  next  morn- 
ing for  the  falls ;  distance  ten  miles  over  a  lava 
plain,  with  stinted  sage  brush.  No  sign  of  the 
great  falls  is  seen,  until  you  reach  a  point  one  mile 
from  them,  when  they  suddenly  burst  upon  the 
eye  with  a  grandeur  and  magnificence  truly 
bewildering. 

Travelers  to  the  main  falls  can  reach  them  on 
foot  very  easily  from  the  upper  ridge.  It  will 
abundantly  repay  visitors  to  go  to  the  edge  of 
the  river,  and  contemplate  their  silent  grandeur. 
A  pathway  or  trail  leads  from  the  point  where 
wagons  stop,  and  the  distance  is  about  one  mile. 

The  Great  Shoshone  Falls. 

BY   CLARENCE    KING. 

In  October,  1868,  with  a  small  detachment  of 
a  United  States  Geological  Survey,  the  writer 
crossed  the  Goose  Creek  Mountains,  in  northern 
Utah,  and  descended  by  the  old  Fort  Boise  Road 
to  the  level  of  the  Snake  Plain.  After  camp  and 
breakfast,  at  Rock  Creek,  mounting  in  the  sad- 
dle we  headed  toward  the  Canon  of  the  Shoshone. 
The  air  was  cold  and  clear.  The  remotest 
mountain  peaks  upon  the  horizon  could  be  dis- 
tinctly seen,  and  the  forlorn  details  of  their 
brown  slopes  stared  at  us  as  through  a  vacuum. 
A  few  miles  in  front,  the  smooth  surface  of  the 
plain  was  broken  by  a  ragged,  zigzag  line  oi 
black,  which  marked  the  edge  of  the  farther  wall 
of  the  Snake  Canon.  A  dull,  throbbing  sound 
greeted  us.  Its  pulsations  were  deep  and  sepmed 
to  proceed  from  the  ground  beneath  our  feet.  . 

Leaving  the  cavalry  to  bring  up  the  wagon,  my 
two  friends  and  I  galloped  on,  and  were  quickly 
upon  the  edge  of  the  canon  wall.  We  looked 
down  into  a  broad,  circular  excavation,  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  in  diameter,  and  nearly  seven 
hundred  feet  deep.  East  and  north,  over  the 
edges  of  the  canon,  we  looked  across  miles  and 
miles  of  the  Snake  Plain,  far  on  to  the  blue 
boundary  mountains.  The  wall  of  the  gorge 
opposite  us,  like  the  cliff  at  our  feet,  sank  in 
perpendicular  bluffs,  nearly  to  the  level  of  the 
river.  A  horizon  as  level  as  the  sea ;  a  circling 
wall,  whose  sharp  edges  were  here  and  there  bat- 
tlemented  in  huge,  fortress-like  masses ;  a  broad 
river,  smooth  and  unruffled,  flowing  quietly  into 
the  middle  of  the  scene,  and  then  plunging  into 


a  labyrinth  of  rocks,  tumbling  over  a  precipice 
two  hundred  feet  high,  and  flowing  westward  in 
a  still,  deep  current,  disappear  behind  a  black 
promontory.  Where  the  river  flowed  around 
the  western  promontory,  it  was  wholly  in  shadow, 
and  of  a  deep  sea-green.  A  scanty  growth  of 
coniferous  trees  fringed  the  brink  of  the  lower 
cliffs,  overhanging  the  river.  Dead  barrenness 
is  the  whole  sentiment  of  the  scene. 

My  tent  was  pitched  upon  the  edge  of  a  cliff, 
directly  overhanging  the  rapids.  From  my  door 
I  looked  over  the  edge  of  the  falls,  and,  when- 
ever the  veil  of  mist  was  blown  aside,  I  could  see 
for  a  mile  down  the  river.  At  the  veiy  brink  of 
the  fall  a  few  twisted  evergreens  cling  with  their 
roots  to  the  rock,  and  lean  over  the  abyss  of  foam 
with  something  of  that  air  of  fatal  fascination 
which  is  apt  to  take  possession  of  men. 

In  plan,  the  fall  recurves  up-stream  in  a  deep 
horseshoe,  resembling  the  outline  of  Niagara. 
The  total  breadth  is  about  seven  hundred  feet, 
and  the  greatest  height  of  a  single  fall  about  one 
hundred  and  ninety.  Among  the  islands  above 
the  brink  are  several  beautiful  cascades,  where 
portions  of  the  river  pour  over  in  lace-like  forms. 
The  whole  mass  of  the.  fall  is  one  ever-varying 
sheet  of  spray.  In  the  early  spring,  when  swollen 
by  the  rapidly  melted  snows,  the  river  pours  over 
with  something  like  the  grand  volume  of  Niag- 
ara, but  at  the  time  of  my  visit,  it  was  wholly 
white  foam.  The  river  below  the  falls  is  very 
deep.  The  right  bank  sinks  into  the  water  in  a 
clear,  sharp  precipice,  but  on  the  left  side  a  nar- 
row, pebbly  beach  extends  along  the  foot  of  the 
cliff.  From  the  top  of  the  wall,  at  a  point  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  below  the  falls,  a  stream  has 
gradually  worn  a  little  stairway  down  to  the 
river :  thick  growths  of  evergreens  have  huddled 
together  in  this  ravine.  Under  the  influence  of 
the  cool  shadow  of  the  cliffs  and  the  pines,  and 
constant  percolating  of  surface-waters,  a  rare  fer- 
tility is  developed  in  the  ravines  opening  upon 
the  shore  of  the  canon.  A  luxuriance  of  ferns 
and  mosses,  an  almost  tropical  wealth  of  green 
leaves  and  velvety  carpeting  line  the  banks. 
There  are  no  rocks  at  the  base  of  the  fall.  The 
sheet  of  foam  plunges  almost  vertically  into  a 
dark,  beryl-green,  lake-like  expanse  of  the  river. 
Immense  volumes  of  foam  roll  up  from  the  cata- 
ract-base, and,  whirling  about  in  the  eddying 
winds,  rise  often  a  thousand  feet  into  the  air. 
When  the  wind  blows  down  the  canon,  a  gra> 
mist  obscures  the  river  for  half  a  mile;  and 
when,  as  is  usually  the  case  in  the  afternoon,  the 
breezes  blow  eastward,  the  foam-cloud  curls  over 
the  brink  of  the  fall,  and  hangs  like  a  veil  over 
the  upper  river.  The  incessant  roar,  reinforced 
by  a  thousand  echoes,  fills  the  canon.  From  out 
this  monotone,  from  time  to  time,  rise  strange, 
wild  sounds,  and  now  and  then  may  be  heard  a 
slow,  measured  beat,  not  unlike  the  recurring  fall 
of  breakers.  From  the  white  front  of  the  cata 


188 


ract  the  eye  constantly  wanders  up  to  the  black, 
frowning  parapet  of  lava.  The  actual  edge  is 
usually  formed  of  irregular  blocks  and  prisms  of 
lava,  poised  upon  their  ends  in  an  unstable  equi- 
librium, ready  to  be  tumbled  over  at  the  first 
leverage  of  the  frost.  Hardly  an  hour  passes 
without  the  sudden  boom  of  one  of  those  rock- 
masses  falling  upon  the  ragged  debris  piled  below. 

After  sleeping  on  the  nightmareish  brink  of 
the  falls,  it  was  no  small  satisfaction  to  climb 
out  of  the  Dantean  gulf  and  find  myself  once 
more  upon  a  pleasantly  prosaic  foreground  of 
sage.  Nothing  more  effectually  banishes  the 
melotragic  state  of  the  mind  than  the  obtrusive 
ugliness  and  abominable  smell  of  this  plant. 
From  my  feet  a  hundred  miles  of  it  stretched 
eastward".  A  half-hour's  walk  took  me  out  of 
sight  of  the  canon,  and  as  the  wind  blew  west- 
ward, only  occasional,  indistinct  pulsations  of  the 
fall  could  be  heard. 

I  walked  for  an  hour,  following  an  old  Indian 
trail  which  occasionally  approached  within  see- 
ing distance  of  the  river,  and  then,  apparently 
quite  satisfied,  diverged  again  into  the  desert. 
When  about  four  miles  from  the  Shoshone,  it 
bent  abruptly  to  the  north,  and  led  to  the  edge  of 
the  canon.  Here  again  the  narrow  gorge  widened 
into  a  broad  theater,  surrounded  as  before  by 
black,  vertical  walls,  and  crowded  over  its  whole 
surface  by  rude  piles  and  ridges  of  volcanic  rock. 
The  river  entered  it  from  the  east  through  a 
magnificent  gateway  of  basalt,  and,  having 
reached  the  middle,  flows  on  either  side  of  a  low, 
rocky  island,  and  plunges  in  two  falls  into  a 
deep,  green  basin.  A  very  singular  ridge  of  the 
basalt  projects  like  an  arm  almost  across  the 
river,  inclosing  within  its  semi-circle  a  bowl  three 
hundred  feet  in  diameter  and  two  hundred  feet 
deep.  Within  this  the  water  was  of  the  same 
peculiar  beryl-green,  dappled  here  and  there  by 
masses  of  foam  which  swim  around  and  around 
with  a  spiral  tendency  toward  the  center.  To  the 
left  of  the  island  half  the  river  plunges  off  an  over- 
hanging lip,  and  falls  about  150  feet,  the  whole  vol- 
iime  reaching  the  surface  of  the  basin  many  feet 
from  the  wall.  The  other  half  of  the  river  has 
worn  away  the  edge,  and  descends  in  a  tumbling 
cascade  at  an  angle  of  about  forty-five  degrees. 

The  cliffs  around  the  upper  cataract  are  infe- 
rior to  those  of  the  Shoshone.  While  the  level 
of  the  upper  plain  remains  nearly  the  same,  the 
river  constantly  deepens  the  channel  in  its  west- 
ward course. 

By  dint  of  hard  climbing  I  reached  the  actual 
brink  in  a  few  places,  and  saw  the  canon  succes- 
sively widening  and  narrowing,  its  walls  here 
and  there  approaching  each  other  and  standing 
like  the  pillars  of  a  gateway;  the  river  alter- 
nately flowing  along  smooth,  placid  reaches  of 
level,  and  then  rushing  swiftly  down  rocky  cas- 
cades. Here  and  there  along  the  cliff  are  dis- 
closed the  mouths  of  black  caverns,  where  the 


lava  seems  to  have  been  blown  up  in  the  form  of 
a  great  blister,  as  if  the  original  flow  had  poured 
over  some  pool  of  water,  and  the  hot  rock,  con- 
verting it  into  steam,  had  been  blown  up  bubble- 
like  by  its  immense  expansion.  I  continued  my 
excursions  along  the  canon  to  the  west  of  the 
Shoshone.  About  a  mile  below  the  fall,  a  very 
fine  promontory  juts  sharply  out  from  the  wall, 
and  projects  nearly  to  the  middle  of  the  canon. 
Climbing  with  difficulty  along  its  toppling  crest, 
I  reached  a  point  which  I  found  composed  of 
immense,  angular  fragments  piled  up  in  danger- 
ous poise.  Looking  eastward,  the  battlemented 
rocks  around  the  falls  limited  the  view;  but 
westward  I  could  see  down  long  reaches  of  river, 
where  islands  of  trachyte  rose  above  white  cas- 
cades. A  peculiar  and  fine  effect  is  noticeable 
upon  the  river  during  all  the  midday.  The 
shadow  of  the  southern  cliff  is  cast  down  here 
and  there,  completely  darkening  the  river,  but 
often  defining  itself  upon  the  water.  The  con- 
trast between  the  rich,  gem-like  green  of  the  sun- 
lit portions  and  the  deep-violet  shadow  of  the 
cliff  is  of  extreme  beauty.  The  Snake  River, 
deriving  its  volume  wholly  from  the  melting  of 
the  mountain  snows,  is  a  direct  gauge  of  the  an- 
nual advance  of  the  sun.  In  June  and  July 
it  is  a  tremendous  torrent,  carrying  a  full  half  of 
the  Columbia.  From  the  middle  of  July  it  con- 
stantly shrinks,  reaching  its  minimum  in  mid- 
winter. At  the  lowest,  it  is  a  river  equal  to  the 
Sacramento  or  Connecticut. 


Near  the  "  City  of  Rocks "  Station,  in  the 
Goose  Creek  Mountains,  are  found  the  "  Giant 
Rocks,"  and  over  the  little  rise  is  the  place  that 
gives  the  name  to  the  station.  Dotting  the 
plains  are  thousands  of  singular  rocks,  on  which 
the  weary  pilgrims  of  1849,  have  written  their 
names  in  cart-grease  paint.  The  old  Cali- 
fornia road  is  still  seen,  but  now  overgrown 
with  rank  weeds.  The  view  as  you  descend 
from  the  summit  is  sublime.  Far  away  in  the 
distance  loom  up  the  Salmon  River  Mountains, 
distant  125  miles,  and  in  the  intervening  space 
winds  the  valley  of  the  Snake  River. 

Kelton  has  from  250  to  300  inhabitants,  nearly 
all  supported  by  the  Idaho  trade.  North  of 
Kelton  about  twenty-five  miles  is  the  Black  Pino 
(mining)  district,  and  130  miles  north,  the  Wood 
River  district.  This  is  the  most  prominent  min- 
ing district  in  Idaho,  but  the  freight  and  trad  > 
of  this  district  and  the  whole  of  the  Boise  basin 
will  eventually  reach  the  Utah  and  Northern 
Railroad,  by  a  branch  of  the  road  from  Black- 
foot  west  to  Boise  City  and  the  Columbia  River. 
The  district  extends  from  the  low  hills  at  the 
base  of  the  Wood  River  Range  to  the  divide  ol 
Wood  and  Salmon  rivers,  from  twenty  to  forty 
miles  wide,  and  140  miles  long — perhaps  the 
most  extensive  silver-bearing  region  known. 


189 


The    ores    are    high  grade,    galena    and    car- 
bonates. 

Idaho  Territory. — This  is  one  of  the  small- 
est of  the  Territories,  as  now  constituted,  and 
claims  a  population  of  about  15,000  people. 
There  are  three  public  lines  of  conveyance 
which  lead  into  the  Territory,  or  rather  two, 
as  one  of  them  passes  entirely  through  it.  The 
stage  line  from  Kelton  passes  the  City  of  Rocks, 
and  within  ten  miles  of  the  Great  Shoshone 
Falls,  to  Dalles  in  Oregon,  by  way  of  Boise 
City,  250  miles  out;  thence  to  Baker  City, 
Oregon,  400  miles;  to  Union,  435  miles;  to  La 
Grande,  450  miles;  to  Umatilla,  510  miles,  and 
to  Walla  Walla,  530  miles.  At  Boise  City  the 


in  corn  raising  have  not,  thus  far,  turned  out 
very  well.  The  second  line  of  public  convey- 
ance spoken  off,  runs  from  Winnemucca  to 
Silver  City. 

The  population  is  about  2,200.  It  is  sus- 
tained by  the  mines  located  near  it.  At  Battle- 
snake  Station  there  is  also  a  connecting  stage 
line  for  Rocky  Bar,  a  mining  camp,  near  which 
placer  and  gulch  diggings  have  been  discov- 
ered. There  are  quite  a  large  number  of 
Chinese  in  the  Territory,  mostly  engaged  in 
placer  and  gulch  mining.  They  are  industri- 
ous and  frugal,  and  will  frequently  make 
money  from  claims  that  have  been  abandoned 
as  worthless  by  white  men. 


VIEW  LOOKING  DOWX  THE  SHOSHONE  FALLS. 


line  connects  -with  stages  for  Idaho  City,  Cen- 
terville,  Placerville  and  Silver  City.  Boise 
City  is  the  territorial  capital,  a  city  of  2,500 
people,  and  located  on  the  Boise  River.  There 
is  not  much  agricultural  land  in  the  Territory, 
but  a  few  of  the  valleys  are  cultivated  and 
produce  excellent  crops  of  wheat,  barley  and 
oats,  with  potatoes  and  all  kinds  of  vegetables. 
Crops  are  raised  by  irrigation.  Boise  Valley, 
the  settled  portion  of  it,  is  about  sixty  miles 
long  and  four  miles  wide,  and  is  the  most 
thickly  settled  of  any  of  the  valleys  in  the 
Territory.  The  nights  are  so  cool  and  the  alti- 
tude of  the  valleys  is  so  great  that  experiments 


The  Snake  and  Salmon  rivers  are  among  its 
principal  streams.  The  Snake  River  rises  in 
the  mountains  of  the  Yellowstone  Region,  and 
flows  entirely  through  the  Territory  from  east 
to  west,  and  forms  one  of  the  tributaries  to  the 
Columbia  River  of  Oregon.  The  scenery  along 
its  valley  is  varied,  but  in  some  places  is  grand. 
Idaho  also  has  immense  ranges  where  a  large 
number  of  cattle  are  grazed  both  winter  and 
summer  without  hay.  The  stock  interest  is 
rapidly  becoming  one  of  the  principal  features 
of  the  Territory.  Its  future  prosperity,  how- 
ever, depends  largely  upon  the  development  of 
its  mining  interests. 


190 


Leaving  Kelton,  the  road  soon  turns  to  the 
left,  and,  rising  a  heavy  grade,  reaches  the 
divide  between  the  Great  Salt  Lake  and  the 
valley  beyond.  The  mountains  for  a  distance 
are  on  our  right,  while,  from  the  left,  a  mag- 
nificent view  of  the  western  arm  of  the  lake 
can  be  obtained.  Between  the  road  and  the 
lake  are  extensive  salt  plains,  which  in  the  sun 
glisten  like  burnished  silver,  while  beyond  are 
the  green  waters  of  this  inland  sea.  Going  up 
this  grade,  you  will  notice  a  ledge  of  rocks  on 
the  left  side  of  the  track,  the  lower  end  of 
which  has  been  tunneled  by  the  wind,  forming 
a  natural  aperture  like  an  open  arch.  We  soon 
turn  to  the  right,  leave  the  lake  behind  us  and 
wind  along  the  side  of  the  mountain.  A  dreary- 
salt  marsh  or  alkali  plain  is  now  seen  on  the 
left,  and  the  low,  isolated  hill  on  the  shore, 
which  for  a  time  obscured  our  vision,  is  passed, 
giving  us  another  view  of  the  lake  in  the  dis- 
tance, and  the  mountains  of  the  "Wahsatch  and 
Oquirrh  ranges  beyond,  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach.  Passing  through  a  rocky  cut  from  a 
projecting  spur  of  the  range  we  are  passing, 
and  looking  to  the  right,  a  beautiful  conical 
dome  rises  up,  as  a  grim  sentinel  to  guard  the 
way.  Kelton  is  also  called  Indian  Creek.  It  is 
supplied  with  water  from  a  spring  several  miles 
north,  and  the  water  is  conveyed  in  cars  from 
this  point  to  other  stations  on  the  road. 

Otnbey — simply  a  side  track  in  the  midst  of 
a  heavy  gravel  cut,  730  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, with  an  elevation  of  4,721  feet.  At  Kel- 
ton we  were  but  little  above  the  elevation  of 
Salt  Lake,  4,223  feet,  and  we  are  500  feet  higher 
here  than  when  we  left  that  place,  the  distance 
between  the  two  being  about  eleven  miles. 
From  the  frequent  views  of  the  Great  American 
Desert  which  the  traveler  can  obtain  while 
passing  over  this  portion  of  the  road,  he  can 
form  some  idea  of  its  utter  barrennness  and 
desolation,  and  the  great  sufferings  of  those 
who  have  attempted  to  cross  it  without  adequate 
preparation,  and  the  consequent  burning  thirst 
they  and  their  animals  have  endured. 

Marlin — only  a  side  track,  720  miles  from 
San  Francisco;  elevation,  4,597  feet. 

Terrace — a  railroad  town  on  the  edge  of  the 
Great  American  Desert.  It  is  709  miles  from 
San  Francisco,  with  an  elevation  of  4,544  feet. 
Here  is  a  fifteen-stall  roundhouse,  and  the  ma- 
chine and  repair  shops  of  the  Salt  Lake  Division 
of  the  Central  Pacific  Railroad.  Mr.  A.  G. 
Fell,  with  headquarters  at  Ogden,  is  Superin- 
tendent of  this  division,  which  extends  from 
that  place  to  Wells  in  Nevada.  The  town  has 
about  300  people,  which  includes  not  only  the 
railroad  men  and  their  families,  but  those  who 
are  here  for  the  purpose  of  trade  and  traffic 
with  them.  The  water  tank  here,  as  at  a 
good  many  stations  on  this  road,  is  supplied 
with  water  brought  through  pipes  from 


the  springs  in  the  mountains.  The  town 
has  two  or  three  stores,  saloons  and  an 
eating-house,  where  railroad  men  and  emi- 
grants take  their  meals.  About  ten  miles  north 
are  the  Eosebud  Mines,  and  eighteen  miles  the 
Newfoundland  district,  all  awaiting  develop- 
ment. The  desert  with  its  dreary  loneliness — 
a  barren  waste — still  continues. 

A  spur  of  the  Goose  Creek  Range  of  Moun- 
tains puts  down  on  our  right,  while  Silver  Is- 
let Mountain  rises  out  of  the  alkali  plain  on  our 
left,  and  Pilot's  Peak,  one  of  the  lofty  moun- 
tains of  Nevada,  and  a  noted  landmark  for  many 
a  weary  pilgrim  across  the  desert,  looms  up  in 
the  southwest. 

Bovine — an  unimportant  station,  with  side 
track  for  the  convenience  of  passing  trains,  699 
miles  from  San  Francisco,  with  an  elevation  oi 
4,347  feet.  On  our  right  are  broken  mountains, 
while  there  is  an  isolated  peak  one  side  of  which 
seems  to  have  settled  away  from  the  other,  leav- 
ing it  very  rough  and  ragged.  Next  we  come  to 

Liiicin — 688  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with 
an  elevation  of  4,486  feet  above  the  sea.  Be- 
yond Lucin,  a  short  distance,  we  strike  Grouse 
Creek,  which  rises  in  the  hills  north.  This 
creek  usually  sinks  in  the  sandy  desert,  and  no 
water  in  it  crosses  the  railroad,  except  in  the 
spring  when  the  snows  are  melting.  On  the 
right,  east  of  the  hills,  and  north  of  Lucin 
about  4^  miles,  are  the  Owl  Springs,  which 
have  an  abundance  of  water.  As  we  enter  the 
pass  in  this  low  range  of  hills,  we  lose  sight  of 
Silver  Islet  Mountains,  and  the  range  close  to 
the  track  is  called  the  Pilot  Range,  or  by  the 
miners,  Buel  Range,  after  Buel  City.  Leaving 
Grouse  Creek  on  our  right,  the  road  leads  to  the 
left  again,  and  we  enter  the  Thousand  Spring 
Valley.  It  virtually  unites  with  the  Grouse 
Valley,  though  its  waters  usually  sink  in  the 
sand  before  they  reach  those  of  the  creek  men- 
tioned. As  we  near  Tecoma,  the  traveler  will 
notice  a  small  granite  monument  on  the  left 
side  of  the  track,  near  the  summit  of  the  grade, 
supported  by  a  heap  of  stones.  This  monu- 
ment marks  the  Nevada  State  line,  and  passing 
it,  we  enter  the  land  of  the  "big  bonanzas." 
From  the  State  line  there  is  a  tangent  or 
straight  line  of  ten  miles,  and  more  than  twenty 
miles  with  only  few  and  slight  curves. 

Tecoma,  Nev. — 676  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, with  an  elevation  of  4,812  feet.  This  is 
the  nearest  railroad  station  to  the  celebrated 
Tecoma  Mines,  Buel  City,  Lucin  and  Silver  . 
Islet  Mining  Districts,  Deep  Creek  District 
(ninety  miles  south),  Goose  Creek  and  Delano 
Districts  (thirty -five  miles  north),  and  the  center 
of  considerable  cattle  trade.  The  town  has 
two  or  three  stores,  saloons  and  stock-yards. 
Off  to  the  north  is  a  fine  grazing  country. 

As  we  approach  Tecoma,  on  our  left  a  bluff 
peak  with  perpendicular  walls  closes  the  north- 


191 


ern  end  of  Pilot  Range,  while  Pilot  Peak  towers 
up  to  the  heavens  at  the  southern  extremity. 
It  is  twenty  miles  from  Tecoma  to  the  base  of 
this  peak,  though  it  does  not  seem  half  that 
distance.  Leaving  Tecoma  the  railroad  con- 
tinues over  a  sage  brush  and  greasewood  plain 
to  the  left  of  the  valley,  with  a  part  of  the  old 
Union  Pacific  grade  on  the  right,  and  as  we 
approach  the  next  range  of  hills  or  mountains, 
we  have  a  fine  broadside  view  of  grand  old 
Pilot  Peak,  and  do  not  wonder  at  its  promi- 
nence, or  the  great  regard  in  which  it  was  held 
by  the  emigrants  across  this  dreary  desert. 

Montello — 715  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
with  an  elevation  of  4,995  feet.  At  this  station 
is  a  large  water-tank  supplied  with  water  from 
a  spring  in  the  mountains  on  the  right,  some 
ten  miles  away.  The  mountain  ranges  this  side 
of  Ogden  run  from  north  to  south,  parallel 
with  each  other,  and  the  railroad  crosses  them 
over  low  divides  or  passes,  while  the  plains  of 
the  desert  lie  between  them.  To  our  right  a 
point  of  the  Pequop  Range  approaches  the 
track,  and  shuts  out  our  view  of  the  Old  Pilot 
as  we  pass  up  the  grade  and  into  the  narrow 
defile. 

Loray,  nearly  on  the  summit  of  the  divide, 
is  657  }4  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with  an 
elevation  of  about  5,960  feet.  It  is  a  station  of 
no  particular  importance  to  travelers.  Wood 
and  timber,  cut  in  the  mountains  for  the  use  of 
the  road,  is  delivered  here. 

Toano — 650  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with 
an  elevation  of  5,973  feet,  formerly  the  western 
terminus  of  the  Salt  Lake  Division  of  the  Cen- 
tral Pacific,  and  183  miles  from  Ogden,  has  a 
roundhouse  with  six  stalls  and  an  adjoining 
shed  where  two  engines  can  be  sheltered.  It 
has  the  usual  side  tracks,  coal-sheds  and  build- 
ings for  the  transaction  of  the  business  of  the 
company.  The  town  has  about  250  people. 
The  following  mining  districts  are  tributary  to 
this  place,  and  transact  the  most  of  their  busi- 
ness here:  Silver  Zone,  distant  20  miles;  Dolly 
Varden,  55  miles;  Cherry  Creek,  100  miles; 
Egan  Canon,  105  miles;  Shelburn,  110  miles; 
Mineral  City,  130  miles;  Ward,  140  miles. 
They  are  all  south  of  the  railroad,  and  connect- 
ed with  Toano  by  a  good  wagon  road,  though 
there  are  no  mails  carried  by  this  route.  A  great 
deal  of  freight  is  carried  to  the  mines,  and  ore  and 
bullion  hauled  back.  The  road  is  destitute  of 
water  for  a  considerable  part  of  the  way,  and 
wells,  at  a  great  expense,  have  been  dug  in  some 
places,  from  which  water  is  sold  to  freighters. 
Formerly  very  rich  ore  was  found  in  some  of 
these  mines.  Twenty  car  loads  from  the  Pay- 
master Mine  in  the  Ward  District  were  shipped 
in  January,  1876,  nineteen  of  which  averaged 
about  $800  per  ton,  and  one  car  averaged  a  lit- 
tle over  $1,000  per  ton,  net.  The  valleys  south 
have  good  ranges  for  stock,  and  some  of  them, 


as  the  Steptoe  Valley,  produce  excellent  crops 
of  small  grain  and  vegetables.  The  Toano 
Range  of  fountains  runs  from  north  to  south, 
and  heads  near  this  place.  On  the  road  to 
Pioche,  about  180  miles  from  Toano,  and  about 
half  a  mile  from  the  road,  is  the  Mammoth 
Cave  of  Nevada.  It  has  been  partially  explored, 
but  its  extent  is  not  known.  Beautiful  speci- 
mens of  stalactites  and  crystals  have  been  found 
here,  and  the  tourist  would  be  highly  interested 
in  a  visit  to  this  cave,  which  in  a  short  time 
must  become  a  place  of  public  resort. 

North  of  Toano,  the  Goose  Creek  Range  of 
Mountains,  which  divides  Goose  Creek  and 
Thousand  Spring  Valley,  is  plainly  visible. 
The  Salmon  Falls  copper  mines,  on  Salmon 
Falls  River,  are  about  sixty  miles  north,  and 
are  known  to  be  rich  in  copper. 

About  twenty  miles  south  of  the  town  a  road 
to  the  Deep  Creek  Mining  District  branches  off 
from  the  Pioche  road,  and  part  of  the  business  of 
that  mining  camp  is  done  here.  The  country 
immediately  around  Toano  is  barren  and  deso- 
late in  appearance — not  inviting  to  the  traveler 
or  settler. 

On  leaving  Toano  we  have  an  up  grade  to 
Moore's  Station,  about  thirty  miles.  In  the 
winter  great  difficulty  is  experienced  with  snow 
over  this  distance,  and  in  the  summer  the  route 
is  extremely  beautiful  and  picturesque.  Just 
west  of  the  town,  on  the  right,  the  low  hills  are 
covered  with  a  scattering  growth  of  scrub  pines 
and  cedars.  The  Pequop  Range  juts  up  to  the 
town  on  the  south,  while  on  the  north  may 
still  be  seen  the  mountains  of  the  Goose  Creek 
Range.  The  road  between  this  point  and  Wells 
is  undulating,  and  full  of  short  curves  and 
heavy  grades.  Six  snow  sheds  are  passed,  in 
rapid  succession.  As  we  look  off  to  the  right, 
the  hill  seems  to  descend  into  a  large  valley, 
with  a  range  of  mountains  beyond.  It  is  a  dry, 
sage  brush  valley  and  continues  in  sight  until 
we  pass  Independence. 

Pequop — 640  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
with  an  elevation  of  6,184  feet.  It  is  simply  a 
side  track,  at  which  passenger  trains  do  not 
stop.  Passing  this,  we  next  reach  the  Otego 
telegraph  station,  which  is  only  used  in  winter, 
to  give  notice  of  snow-blocked  trains,  etc. 

Otego — station  and  side  track,  which  is  635 
miles  from  San  Francisco,  with  an  elevation  of 
6,154  feet.  The  tourist  may  enjoy  a  magnifi- 
cent view  of  hills  and  mountains,  valleys  and 
dales,  as  we  pass  on  over  some  of  the  reverse 
curves  in  the  road.  The  old  Union  Pacific 
grade  is  still  seen  in  patches,  on  our  right. 
Pequop  Range,  with  Independence  Valley,  now 
looms  grandly  into  view  on  our  left,  as  we 
arrive  at 

Independence — 629  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, with  an  elevation  of  6,007  feet.  We  are 
now  crossing  a  low  divide  between  the  valley 


192 


on  our  right,  above  spoken  of,  and  Independ- 
ence Valley  on  our  left.  This  station  is  on  a 
heavy  down  grade,  and  trains  going  west  sel- 
dom stop.  The  water  tank  is  supplied  from 
springs  in  the  low  hills  off  to  the  right,  and  the 
side  track  is  a  little  beyond  it.  We  now  pass 
to  the  right  around  an  isolated  mountain  that 
seems  to  guard  the  entrance  to  Independence 
Valley — and  then  to  the  left,  and  as  we  turn  to 
enter  the  pass  in  the  mountains  a  lovely  view 
of  this  beautiful  valley  is  again  obtained, 
stretching  away  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  It 
is  a  great  stock  range,  and  thousands  of  cattle 
annually  feed  upon  its  rich  nutritious  grasses. 
Turning  again  to  the  right  we  enter  what  is 
called  Cedar  Pass.  Passing  a  section-house  at 
which  there  is  a  winter  telegraph  station  for  use 
of  snow-bound  trains,  we  soon  reach  the  sum- 
mit of  the  divide  between  Independence  Val- 
ley and  the  valley  of  the  Humboldt,  at 

Moor's — 623  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with 
an  elevation  of  6,166  feet.  It  was  formerly 
quite  a  town  for  wood-choppers  and  frontiers- 
men, when  the  railroad  was  being  built;  but  its 
glory  has  departed  and  the  stakes  and  posts  of 
a  few  houses  are  all  that  remain  to  mark  the 
spot.  Down  the  grade  we  go  into  the  far-famed 
Humboldt  Valley,  passing  Cedar,  a  side  track, 
where  a  camp  of  wood-choppers  in  the  moun- 
tains on  our  left  deliver  their  wood.  From 
Moor's  for  a  distance  of  310  miles  there  is  with 
slight  exception  a  down  grade.  The  reader 
may  note  the  elevations  at  the  different  stations 
and  see  what  uniformity  prevails. 

Wells — 614  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with 
an  elevation  of  5,629  feet,  is  the  western  ter- 
minus of  the  Salt  Lake,  and  eastern  terminus 
of  the  Humboldt  division.  Its  population  of 
200  are  mostly  railroad  people.  A  roundhouse 
and  repair  shops  are  located  here,  and  snow- 
plows  are  frequently  sent  out  from  this  point 
during  the  storms  of  winter.  Just  as  we  enter 
the  town,  we  pass  a  mountain  spur  on  our  left, 
and  Clover  Valley  bursts  into  view.  Its  name 
is  significant  as  it  abounds  in  the  natural  clover 
so  well  known  in  the  Eastern  States.  The  rail- 
road water  tank,  formerly  supplied  with  water 
pumped  from  the  wells,  a  little  west  of  the 
town,  is  now  filled  from  a  mountain  spring  four 
miles  away. 

Humboldt  "Wells,  as  they  are  called,  give 
celebrity  to  this  place.  They  are  really  springs 
about  thirty  in  number,  situated  mostly  in  a 
low  basin  half  a  mile  west  of  the  station. 
They  are  very  probably  natural  springs,  and 
from  the  nature  of  the  porous  soil  around 
them,  they  do  not  rise  and  flow  away  as  similar 
springs  do  in  a  more  compact  soil.  The  water, 
by  residents  here,  is  not  considered  brackish  at 
all,  nor  is  it  particularly  warm,  though  the 
springs  have  never  been  known  to  freeze  over. 
They  are  also  called  bottomless,  but  no  accurate 


knowledge  has  yet  been  published  in  regard  to 
their  depth.  They  are  simply  deep  springs, 
but  the  opinion  is  here  entertained  that  a  lead 
and  line  would  soon  touch  bottom  in  them.  It 
was  the  great  watering  place  in  times  of  the  old 
emigrant  travel,  and  at  least  three  of  these 
roads  converged  to  this  point  and  united  here. 
These  were  the  Grass  Creek,  the  Thousand 
Spring  Valley  and  the  Cedar  Pass  Roads.  Emi- 
grants in  those  days  always  rejoiced  when  they 
had  passed  the  perils  of  the  Great  American 
Desert,  and  arrived  at  these  springs  where 
there  was  plenty  of  water,  pure  and  sweet,  and 
an  abundance  of  grass  for  their  weary  and 
worn  animals.  Hence  it  was  a  favorite  camp- 
ing ground.  Visitors  approaching  these  springs 
in  the  summer,  and  springing  on  the  sod,  can 
fairly  shake  the  adjoining  springs,  a  fact  that 
leads  to  the  opinion  entertained  by  some  that 
they  are  really  openings  of  a  lake,  which  has 
been  gradually  covered  over  by  the  accumula- 
tion of  grass  and  grass  roots  and  other  luxuri- 
ant vegetation,  which  abounds  along  and  around 
the  basin.  The  fact  that  the  ground  around 
these  springs  is  so  elastic,  and  the  known  inci- 
dents in  history,  where  luxuriant  vegetation 
has  frequently  caused  islands  in  rivers  and 
lakes,  suggests  this  opinion,  and  a  thorough 
investigation  may  establish  the  theory  that 
there  is  in  this  basin  simply  a  covered  lake,  of 
which  the  springs  are  openings.  The  confor- 
mation of  the  land  around  the  basin  also  tends 
to  establish  the  truth  of  this  theory.  The  basin 
is  the  receptacle  of  the  drainage  of  a  large  water- 
shed, and  there  are  high  mountains  nearly  all 
around  it.  These  springs  abound  in  fish — the 
little  minnows  that  are  so  common  in  the 
brooks  and  small  streams  in  the  Eastern  States. 
Other  kinds  there  may  be,  but  these  only  have 
been  caught.  The  apertures  differ  in  size,  and 
the  openings  to  some  are  much  larger  than  the 
openings  in  others.  If  they  were  on  a  side- 
hill  everybody  would  call  them  springs,  but 
inasmuch  as  they  are  in  a  low  basin,  they  are 
called  wells. 

Mr.  Hamill,  a  merchant  of  "Wells,  says  that 
he  took  a  piece  of  railroad  iron  and  tied  some 
lariat  ropes  to  it  (about  160  feet),  and  could 
find  no  bottom  in  the  deepest  springs  which  he 
sounded  with  that  length  of  rope.  He  further 
says  that  a  government  exploring  party,  under 
command  of  Lieutenant  Cuppinger,  visited 
Wells  in  1870  and  took  soundings  of  the  springs 
to  a  depth  of  from  1,500  to  1,700  feet  and  found 
no  bottom.  These  soundings  were  of  the 
largest  springs  or  wells,  and  while  his  state- 
ment may  be  true,  even  soundings  to  this 
depth  do  not  render  them  bottomless. 

How  to  see  them  and  know  where  they  are,  is 
the  next  thing  of  consequence  to  the  traveler. 
As  you  pass  west  of  the  station,  notice  the  end 
of  a  piece  of  the  old  Union  Pacific  grade;  next 


193 


the  graves  surrounded  by  painted  fences;  then 
off  to  the  right  a  heap  of  stones,  where  the  en- 
gine-house was  built — the  engine  being  used  to 
force  water  from  the  well,  which  is  just  beyond 
this  heap  of  stones,  to  the  tank  alongside  of 
the  track.  The  heavy  growth  of  grass  around 
the  place  will  indicate  where  this  well  is  in 
summer,  and  the  accumulated  deposits  of  this 
grass  have  raised  a  little  rim  around  this  particu- 
lar well — and  the  same  is  true  of  others  in  its 
immediate  vicinity. 

Travelers  will  take  notice  that  a  mail  and  ex- 
press stage  line  leaves  Wells  tri-weekly — Mon- 
days, Wednesdays  and  Fridays — in  the  morn- 
ing for  Sprucemont,  35  miles;  Cherry  Creek, 
95  miles;  Egan  Canon,  90  miles,  and  Ward,  130 
miles  distant. 

There  are  estimated  to  be  about  forty  ranches 
in  Clover  Valley,  and  as  many  in  Ruby  Valley. 
These  ranchmen  are  engaged  in  agriculture  and 
stock  growing.  They  raise  wheat,  barley,  oats, 
and  splendid  vegetables.  Wells  has  extensive 
stockyards  to  accommodate  the  large  shipments 
of  cattle  annually  made  from  these  ranches. 
The  valley  in  this  immediate  vicinity  is  the 
scene  of  the  annual  "  round-ups,"  every  spring. 
Cedar  Pass  Range  is  the  range  on  our  left,  as 
we  come  through  by  Moor's  Station.  West  of  • 
this  range  and  south  of  Wells  is  Clover  Valley. 
The  tourist  will  see  "  Castle  Peak  "  on  the  fur- 
ther side  of  this  valley  as  the  train  pauses  at  the 
station,  and  this  peak  is  on  the  northern  end  of 
Ruby  Range,  and  it  is  always  covered  with 
snow.  Ruby  Valley  is  nearly  due  south  of  the 
"  Castle,"  which  you  see  in  the  mountain,  and 
is  divided  from  Clover  Valley  by  a  spur  of  this 
range,  which  turns  into  it  like  a  hook.  Ruby 
Range  is  about  150  miles  long,  and  we  only  see 
its  northern  extremity  at  Wells. 

North  of  Wells,  across  the  first  range,  lies  the 
Thousand  Spring  Valley — then  across  another 
low  divide,  you  will  strike  a  valley  whose 
waters  flow  northwest  through  the  Columbia 
River  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Fishermen  will 
bear  in  mind  that  salmon  trout  are  caught  in 
this  valley  in  the  spring  of  the  year.  The 
stream  is  a  branch  of  the  Salmon  Falls  River, 
which  empties  into  Snake  River,  about  120 
miles  north  of  this  station. 

It  may  be  well  to  remark  here  that  the  moun- 
tain ranges  in  Nevada,  as  in  Utah,  generally 
extend  from  north  to  south — and  the  only  ex- 
ception to  this  rule  is  where  there  are  broken 
or  detached  ranges,  or  isolated  peaks.  Leaving 
Wells,  the  foot  hills  on  our  left,  in  a  short  dis- 
tance, obscure  a  view  of  the  high  peaks  in  the 
Ruby  Range;  but  they  soon  reappear  as  we 
pass  down  the  valley,  and  are  our  constant 
companions,  only  a  short  distance  away,  until 
we  leave  Halleck.  Between  the  Humboldt 
River  and  the  base  of  these  mountains,  there  is 
an  elevated  bench  covered  with  the  usual  sage 


brush  and  greasewood,  while  in  the  valley  and 
along  the  borders  of  the  stream  grass  land  pre- 
dominates. An  extensive  stock-dealer,  when 
asked  about  the  qualifications,  etc.,  for  growing 
cattle,  said  that  "there  was  about  one  acre  of 
grass  to  seventy-five  acres  of  sage  brush,"  and 
a  limited  observation  of  this  part  of  the  State, 
at  least,  proves  that  he  was  not  far  out  of  the 
way.  As  we  descend  the  river,  however,  a 
gradual  increase  in  grass  lands  will  be  observed, 
while,  in  places,  the  greasewood  which,  so  far 
as  we  know,  is  entirely  useless,  grows  in  aston- 
ishing luxuriance. 

Talasco — 607  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with 
an  elevation  of  5,482  feet.  The  valley  seems  to 
widen  out  as  we  descend  it,  and  bushes  grow  in 
bunches  along  the  banks  of  the  stream  as  if  the 
old  earth,  under  the  most  favorable  conditions, 
was  trying  to  produce  trees  to  beautify  and 
adorn  these  barren  plains.  Soon  Bishop's  Val- 
ley can  be  seen  on  our  right.  Looking  to  the 
left,  we  see  the  canon  in  the  mountain  side, 
down  which  rushes  Trout  Creek,  when  the 
snows  are  melting  in  the  spring  and  early  sum- 
mer. This  creek  abounds  in  "speckled  beau- 
ties," and  unites  with  the  Humboldt  about  a 
mile  and  a  half  below  Bishop's  Creek,  which 
we  soon  cross,  through  a  covered  bridge. 

Bishop's  is  another  side  track  station,  but 
on  we  glide  through  the  valley  as  it  widens  out 
into  magnificent  proportions.  It  is  602  miles 
from  San  Francisco,  and  has  an  elevation  of 
5,412  feet.  Another  little  creek  and  valley  now 
appear  on  our  right,  and  we  soon  arrive  at 

Deeth — 594  miles  from  San  Francisco;  eleva- 
tion, 5,340  feet.  It  is  a  telegraph  station,  and 
has  a  few  buildings  around  it.  The  valley  seems 
very  broad  as  we  approach  this  station,  and 
evidences  of  settlement  and  cultivation  begin 
to  appear.  The  bushes  and  willows  along  the 
banks  of  the  stream  increase,  and  it  is  a  para- 
dise for  ducks  and  geese. 

Natchez  is  simply  a  side-track  and  unim- 
portant station,  and 

HallecJc  is  the  next  station,  581  miles  from 
San  Francisco,  with  an  elevation  of  5,230  feet. 
It  is  named  from  Camp  Halleck,  which  is  located 
at  the  base  of  the  mountains,  thirteen  miles 
from  the  station,  and  across  the  river.  A  few 
troops  are  usually  kept  here — two  or  three 
companies — and  all  the  freighting  and  business 
of  the  post  is  done  from  this  station.  The 
town  itself  has  a  post-office,  hotel,  a  small  store 
and  the  usual  saloons  where  "  lingering  death" 
or  "blue  ruin"  is  doled  out  to  soldiers  and 
others  who  patronize  them.  It  is  probable 
that  good  crops  of  wheat,  barley  and  oats  could 
be  raised  here  by  irrigating  the  land,  but  it  is 
mostly  occupied  as  stock  ranges.  Camp  Hal- 
leck is  not  plainly  seen  from  the  railroad, 
though  a  few  buildings  a  little  removed  from  it 
will  point  out  its  locality.  A  regular  mail 


194 


ambulance  runs  daily  between  it  and  the  station. 
The  camp  is  delightfully  located,  well  watered, 
and  is  surrounded  with  thriving  groves  of  cot- 
ton wood  trees.  Leaving  Halleck,  Elko  Moun- 
tain seems  to  rise  on  our  right  close  to  the 
track,  but  the  road  soon  turns  and  we  pass  this 
landmark  on  our  left.  The  Euby  Range  which 
we  have  seen  away  to  the  left,  from  Wells  to 
the  last  station,  is  now  left  in  the  rear  as  we 
turn  westward  again,  and  pass  down  one  of  the 
Humboldt  Canons. 

Peko  is  the  next  station,  merely  a  side  track 
and  section-house  at  the  head  of  the  first  canon 
on  the  river.  It  is  578  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, with  an  elevation  of  5,204  feet.  We  are 
now  at  the  head  of  the  Humboldt  Canon,  the 
first  one  through  which  the  river  passes.  It  is 
not  wild  and  rugged,  but  nevertheless  suffi- 
ciently so  to  make  it  interesting.  A  short  dis- 
tance below  Peko,  the  North  Fork  of  Humboldt 
comes  in.  It  is  about  as  large  as  the  main 
body,  and  is  a  peculiar  stream.  It  rises  nearly 
north  of  Carlin,  some  distance  west  of  this 
point,  and  runs  to  the  northeast  for  a  distance, 
then  nearly  east,  and  finally  turns  toward  the 
southwest,  and  unites  with  the  Humboldt  at 
this  point.  The  road  through  this  canon  is 
full  of  short  curves,  and  winds  like  a  serpent 
through  the  hills.  Now  it  seems  as  though  the 
train  would  be  thrown  into  a  heap  at  the  base 
of  the  hill  we  are  approaching,  but  a  turn  to 
the  right  or  left  saves  us  from  such  a  calamity. 
Once  or  twice  before  we  reach  Osino,  the  valley 
opens  out  between  the  hills,  and  where  the 
North  Fork  enters  there  is  an  abundance  of 
grass  which  is  monopolized  by  a  ranchman.  At 
the  next  station, 

Osino — 566  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with 
an  elevation  of  5,132  feet — a  mere  side  track — 
we  enter  upon  an  open  valley,  and  for  about 
nine  miles  pass  over  a  nearly  straight  track. 
The  valley  is  all  taken  up  by  ranchmen  and 
farmers,  and  good  crops  are  raised  by  irriga- 
tion. The  water  is  taken  from  the  Humboldt 
above,  brought  down  in  a  ditch,  from  which  it 
is  taken  and  distributed  among  the  farms. 

Elko — 558  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with  an 
elevation  of  5,063  feet.  It  is  the  regular  break- 
fast and  supper  station  of  the  road,  and  pas- 
sengers get  an  excellent  meal  in  a  neat,  well- 
kept  house.  In  the  midst  of  a  game  and  fish 
country,  the  table  is  generally  supplied  in  the 
proper  season.  Passengers  have  half  an  hour 
for  their  meal. 

Elko  is  the  county -seat  of  Elko  County — the 
northeastern  county  of  the  State.  It  has  a 
population  of  about  1,200,  and  is  one  of  the 
important  commercial  and  educational  centers 
of  the  State.  It  has  a  large  brick  court-house 
and  jail,  one  church,  an  excellent  public  school, 
and  is  the  seat  of  the  State  University.  This 
institution  has  forty  acres  of  ground  on  a  bench 


of  land  overlooking  the  city,  in  plain  sight  of 
the  cars  on  the  right,  just  before  reaching  the 
town.  It  was  first  opened  in  1875.  The  money 
paid  for  freights  consigned  to  this  place  and  the 
mining  districts  which  are  tributary  to  it,  in  1875 
amounted  to  nearly  $400,000,  and  the  first  year 
the  railroad  was  completed  ran  up  to  over 
$1,000, 000.  The  trade  of  the  place  has  decreased 
owing  to  the  fluctuations  of  the  mines  tributary 
to  it,  and  the  loss  of  the  business  of  Eureka 
and  other  points  south,  near  the  line  of  the 
Eureka  and  Palisade  Railroad.  The  town  has 
numerous  retail  stores  and  two  or  three  whole- 
sale establishments,  with  a  bank,  a  flouring 
mill,  brewery,  hotels,  etc.  Water  taken  from 
the  Humboldt  River,  some  seventeen  miles  dis- 
tant, and  brought  here  in  pipes,  supplies  the 
city.  It  has  three  large  freight  depots  for  the 
accommodation  of  its  railroad  business,  and  is 
the  location  of  the  United  States  Land  Office 
for  the  Elko  Land  District.  Indians,  mostly 
the  Shoshones,  of  all  sizes  and  of  both  sexes, 
hover  around  the  town  and  beg  from  the  trains 
of  cars.  They  still  bedaub  themselves  with 
paint,  and  strut  around  with  feathers  in  their 
hats  in  true  Indian  style.  About  one  and  a 
half  miles  north  of  the  river  and  west  of  the 
town,  are  a  group  of  mineral  springs  that  are 
already  attracting  the  attention  of  invalids. 
There  are  six  springs  in  this  group,  three  hot 
and  three  cold.  The  hot  springs  show  185° 
Fahrenheit,  and  one  of  them,  called  the 
"  Chicken  Soup  Spring,"  has  water  which,  with 
a  little  salt  and  pepper  for  seasoning,  tastes 
very  much  like  chicken  broth.  Tourists  in 
search  of  wonderful  curiosities  should  not  fail 
to  visit  these  springs  and  observe  the  craters  of 
those  which  are  now  extinct.  The  sediment  or 
incrustations  formed  by  the  water  into  some 
kind  of  porous  rock,  accumulated  around  the 
apertures  until  at  length  they  were  raised,  in 
one  instance,  about  three  feet  above  the  surface 
of  the  ground,  with  a  hollow  basin  at  least  one 
foot  in  diameter  on  the  top.  Other  extinct 
springs  are  not  as  high  as  this  one,  but  show 
the  same  formation  and  have  the  same  pecu- 
liarities. Of  the  hot  flowing  springs — said  to 
be  white  sulphur — two  are  quite  large,  and  ona 
of  them  is  said  to  contain  a  large  solution  of 
iron.  A  bathing-house  has  been  erected  a  short 
distance  away,  to  which  the  water  is  conducted, 
and  in  which  there  are  private  bathing-rooms 
supplied  with  both  hot  and  cold  water  from  the 
springs.  There  is  also  a  large  plunge  bath  near 
by,  with  dressing-rooms  adjoining,  and  a  hotel 
for  the  accommodation  of  guests.  There  is  a 
public  conveyance  running  between  the  city 
and  the  springs  for  the  accommodation  of  visi- 
tors. The  waters  are  claimed  to  be  a  certain 
cure  for  rheumatism  and  all  diseases  of  the 
blood;  to  have  a  remarkable  effect  in  paralytic 
cases;  to  have  a  good  effect  on  consumptives, 


195 


MOUNTAIN  SCENE  IX  THE  RUBY  RANGE. 

when  the  disease  is  not  too  far  advanced;  to 
cure  fevers  of  all  kinds,  and  the  miners  who 
become  poisoned  with  the  lead  disease,  by 
working  among  antimonial  ores.  The  uniform 
temperature  of  the  hot  springs  has  been  further 
utilized  in  hatching  chickens,  and  the  experi- 
ment, if  carried  to  perfection,  will  beat  all  the 
setting  hens  in  the  country. 

Tuscarora  and  Cornucopia  are  tributary  to 
Elko,  and  contribute  to  its  prosperity.  The 
former  is  forty-seven  miles  north.  Tuscarora  is 


190 


the  principal  town  in  the  district.  The  mines, 
like  those  in  the  Cornucopia  district,  are  in  a 
porphyry  formation  with  free  milling  ore. 
Cornucopia  district  is  about  thirty  miles  north 
of  Tuscarora.  Other  districts  are  the  Centen- 
nial and  Cope  near  the  head  waters  of  the  North 
Fork  of  the  Humboldt.  Stages  run  daily  to 
Tuscarora  and  Cornucopia.  In  the  vicinity  of 
the  mining  districts  there  are  rich  agricultural 
valleys,  where  all  kinds  of  grain  except  corn 
are  extensively  raised,  and  vegetables  and 
melons  grow  to  a  great  size  and  excellence. 
There  are  also  vast  stock  ranges  tributary  to 
Elko.  There  is  a  weekly  stage  line  to  the  South 
Fork  of  the  Humboldt  and  Huntingdon  Valley. 
'From  these  and  other  valleys  Elko  receives 
large  numbers  of  cattle  to  be  shipped  by  rail. 

Elko  has  one  daily  and  two  weekly  papers 
•which  are  well  supported.  The  Post  is  a  weekly, 
Republican  in  politics,  and  the  Independent, 
daily  and  weekly,  is  Democratic  in  politics. 

The  valley  of  the  Humboldt  continues  to 
•widen  as  we  leave  Elko  for  a  few  miles,  and  if 
it  is  winter  or  in  the  cool  mornings  of  spring  or 
autumn,  we  will  see  the  steam  rising  in  clouds 
from  the  Hot  Springs  across  the  river  near  the 
wagon  bridge,  on  our  left.  The  pasture  and 
meadow  lands,  with  occasional  houses,  are  soon 
pass  3d,  and  we  arrive  at 

Moleen — 546  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with 
an  elevation  of  4,982  feet.  It  is  simply  a  side 
track  station,  with  no  settlements  around  it,  and 
trains  seldom  stop.  The  same  general  appear- 
ance of  the  valley  and  low  ranges  on  either  side 
continue  to  this  place.  Occasionally  as  we  have 
glanced  to  the  left,  the  high  peaks  of  the  Ruby 
Range  have  lifted  themselves  into  view,  over- 
topping the  nearer  and  lower  range  that  borders 
the  river  on  the  south.  Passing  Moleen,  the 
valley  begins  to  narrow,  and  the  river  gorges 
through  the  Five  Mile  Canon.  Close  to  the 
bluffs  we  roll  along  and  suddenly,  almost  over 
our  heads,  the  beating  storms  of  ages  have 
washed  out  the  softer  and  more  porous  parts  of 
the  ledges,  leaving  turrets  and  peaks,  towers  and 
domes  standing  along  in  irregular  order.  This 
peculiar  formation  is  known  in  this  vicinity  as 
the  "Moleen  Rocks."  The  road  curves  to  con- 
form to  the  line  of  the  earth  now  one  way  and 
now  another.  The  scenery  here  is  not  grand 
and  sublime,  but  just  enough  peculiar  to  be  in- 
teresting. The  towering  ledges  in  this  canon,  or 
in  the  one  below,  are  not  a  thousand  or  fifteen 
hundred  feet  high — for  accurate  measurements 
have  placed  them  at  about  800  feet.  This  canon 
is  soon  passed  and  the  valley  opens  out  again. 
We  soon  cross  Susan's  Creek,  and  then  Maggie's 
Creek,  then  Mary's  Creek,  and  we  are  at 

Carlin — 535  miles  from  San  Francisco,  at 
an  elevation  of  of  4,907  feet.  It  is  a  railroad 
town,  the  terminus  of  a  division  of  the  road 
and  the  location  of  the  roundhouse,  machine 


car  and  repair  shops  of  the  Humboldt  Division 
of  the  Central  Pacific  Railroad.  It  is  the  head- 
quarters of  Mr.  G.  W.  Coddington,  the  Division 
Superintendent.  The  division  extends  from 
Wells  to  Winnemucca,  and  this  place  is  about 
half  way  between  them.  The  town  has  no  busi- 
ness outside  of  the  railroad  shops  and  employes, 
and  numbers  aboiit  600  people.  The  round- 
house has  16  stalls  for  engines,  and  the  repair 
shop,  six  pits.  It  is  in  Elko  County.  The  old 
emigrant  road  divided  just  before  reaching  Car- 
lin, one  branch  going  south  of  the  river,  and  the 
range  of  mountains  bordering  the  same,  and  the 
other  going  north  of  the  hills  on  the  north  side  of 
the  river.  These  two  roads  came  together  below, 
near  Gravelly  Ford.  In  the  vicinity  of  Carlin 
the  four  little  creeks  corne  in  from  the  north. 
In  the  order  in  which  they  are  crossed,  they  are 
called  Susie,  Maggie,  Mary  and  Amelia.  Tra- 
dition says  in  regard  to  these  names,  that  an 
emigrant  was  crossing  the  plains  with  his  family 
at  an  early  day,  and  that  in  this  family  were 
four  daughters  in  the  order  given,  and  that  as 
the  party  came  to  these  streams,  they  gave  the 
name  of  each  one  of  the  daughters  to  them — 
a  very  appropriate  thing  to  do,  and  their  names 
have  been  perpetuated  in  history.  Just  east 
of  Moleen  Station,  the  tourist  looking  off  to  the 
left,  will  notice  the  break  or  gorge  through  the 
low  hills,  on  the  south  side  of  the  river.  Through 
this  gorge  the  South  Fork  of  the  Humboldt 
comes  in.  This  stream  rises  in  the  Ruby  Range 
of  Mountains  and  flows  in  a  general  westerly 
direction,  uniting  with  the  main  river  at  this 
point.  We  will  here  state  that  nearly  all  the 
people  in  the  vicinity,  call  the  range  of  mount- 
ains  last  alluded  to  "  Ruby,"  and  we  have  fol- 
lowed the  custom  ;  but  Lieutenant  Wheeler's  Map 
speaks  of  it  as  the  Humboldt  Range,  and  accord- 
ing to  the  custom  of  the  people  along  this  valley, 
nearly  every  range  of  mountains  in  sight,  from 
one  side  of  the  State  to  the  other,  is  called  "  Hum- 
boldt Range,"  or  "  Humboldt  Mountains."  As 
to  the  fertility  of  these  and  other  valleys  in  this 
part  of  the  State,  it  all  depends  upon  irrigation. 
A  sage  brush  plain  indicates  good  soil,  but  water 
must  be  obtained  to  raise  a  crop.  An  effort  has 
been  made  to  make  Carlin  the  shipping  point  to 
the  mining  districts  on  the  north,  but  without 
much  success  thus  far.  The  iron  horses  are 
changed"  here,  and  with  a  fresh  steed  we  pass 
down  the  valley.  It  is  quite  wide  here,  but  will 
soon  narrow  as  we  enter  the  Twelve  Mile  Canon. 
Like  the  former,  the  road  winds  around  the  base 
of  the  bluffs  and  almost  under  the  ledges,  with 
the  river  sometimes  almost  under  us.  The 
peaks  and  ledges  seem  to  have  no  local  name, 
but  some  of  them  are  very  singular.  In  one 
place,  soon  after  entering  the  canon,  the  ledges 
on  the  right  side  of  the  track  seem  to  stand  up 
on  edge,  and  broken  into  very  irregular,  serrated 
lines, — the  teeth  of  the  ledge  being  uneven  as  to 


197 


length.  The  height  of  the  bluffs  and  of  the 
palisades  below,  is  about  the  same  as  in  the 
former  canon — 800  feet.  In  some  places  the  pal- 
isades are  hollowed  out  like  caves  or  open 
arches,  and  the  debris  that  has  crumbled  and 
fallen  from  their  summits  during  the  ages, 
obscures  their  full  form  and  height  from  view. 

Twelve  Mile  Canon,  in  the  Palisades,  was 
graded  in  six  weeks  by  the  Central  Pacific 
Railroad  Company,  one  cut  herein  containing 
6,600  cubic  yards.  Five  Mile  Canon  just  east- 
ward, was  graded  in  three  weeks,  with  a  force  of 
5,000  to  6,000  men. 

With  the  perpendicular  walls  rising  on  each 
side  of  us,  we  glide  around  the  curves,  and  in 
the  midst  of  these  reddish  lines  of  towering 
rocks,  arrive  at 

Palisade, — 576  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
with  an  elevation  of  4,841  feet.  It  is  the  initial 
point  of  the  Eureka  &  Palisade  Railroad,  is  a 
growing  little  place  between  the  wall  rocks  of  the 
nver,  and  has  a  population  of  from  150  to  200 
souls.  It  has  one  or  two  hotels  or  lodging-houses, 
stores,  saloons,  two  large  freight  depots,  and  the 
machine  and  repair  shops  of  the  Eureka  & 
Palisade  Railroad.  A  new  station-house,  ticket 
and  telegraph  office  has  been  constructed  here 
— the  finest  in  Nevada — to  be  occupied  and 
used  by  both  the  Central  Pacific  and  Eureka 
and  Palisade  roads. 

The  town  is  located  about  half  the  distance 
down  the  canon,  and  the  rocky,  perpendicular 
walls  give  it  a  picturesque  appearance.  The 
lower  half  of  the  canon  is  not  as  wild  and  rug- 
ged, however,  as  the  upper  half.  All  freight, 
which  is  mostly  base  bullion,  that  is  shipped 
from  Eureka  and  other  points  on  this  branch 
road,  has  to  be  transferred  here,  and  the  traveler 
may  sometimes  be  surprised,  in  passing,  at  the 
immense  piles  of  bullion  which  may  here  be  seen 
on  the  platform  of  the  railroad  companies.  On 
a  hill  to  the  right  is  a  wooden  reservoir  supplied 
by  springs,  from  which  the  water  used  in  town 
is  taken.  The  canon  above  was  not  used  for  the 
purposes  of  travel  before  the  passage  of  the  Cen- 
tral Pacific  Road — not  even  a  horseman  ventur- 
ing through  it. 

Shoshone  Indian  Village. — Just  below 
the  town  is  what  Fenimbre  Cooper  would  doubt- 
less call  an  Indian  Village,  but  it  requires  a  great 
stretch  of  the  imagination  on  the  part  of  the  prac- 
tical American,  or  live  Yankee,  now-a-days,  to  see 
it.  A  dozen  or  so  tents,  discolored  with  smoke 
and  besmeared  with  dirt  and  grease,  revealing 
from  six  to  ten  squalid  beings  covered  with  ver- 
min, filth  and  rags,  is  not  calculated  to  create  a 
pleasing  impression,  or  awaken  imaginary  nights 
to  any  great  extent.  Between  Ogden  and  Battle 
Mountain,  the  Indians  now  seen  on  the  line  of  the 
road  are  mostly  Shoshones.  Their  reservation 
proper,  for  this  part  of  the  country,  is  at  Carlin, 
but  very  few  of  them  are  on  it.  For  some  reason 


best  kiiown  to  themselves,  they  prefer  to  look 
out  for  themselves  rather  than  receive  the  small 
annual  amount  appropriated  by  the  government 
for  their  maintenance.  They  are  all  inveterate 
gamblers,  and  a  group  of  squaws  will  sit  on  the 
ground  for  hours,  around  a  blanket  stretched  out, 
and  throw  sticks.  There  are  usually  five  of 
these  flat  sticks,  from  four  to  six  inches  in 
length,  one  side  of  which  is  colored  slightly. 
Each  one  has  a  rock,  a  piece  of  coal,  or  some 
other  hard  substance  by  her  side,  and  slightly 
inclined  toward  the  blanket.  She  will  then 
gather  the  sticks  in  her  hand  and  throw  them 
upon  this  rock  so  that  they  will  bound  on  to  the 
blanket,  and  the  point  of  the  game  seems  to  be, 
which  side  of  the  sticks,  the  colored  or  plain, 
comes  up  in  falling.  It  seems  to  be  a  perfect 
game  of  chance,  and  the  one  who  throws  so  that 
the  sticks  all  fall  colored  side  up,  seems  to  have 
some  advantage  in  the  game.  There  is  said  to 
be  some  improvement  in  their  methods  of  living 
during  the  last  fifteen  years  ;  some  of  them  have 
been  employed  on  ranches,  and  some  of  the 
squaws  are  employed  in  doing  the  plainest  kinds 
of  housework ;  the  children  and  younger  mem- 
bers of  the  tribe  are  most  all  becoming  acquainted 
with  the  English  language,  and  all,  so  far  as  they 
are  able,  are  gradually  adopting  the  civilized 
customs  of  dress,  etc.,  though  they  invariably, 
thus  far,  paint  their  faces. 
EUREKA  AND  PALISADE  R.  R. 

E.  MILLS,  President,     -     -     -     EUREKA,  NEV. 
P.  EVEBTS,  Gen'l  Supt.,      -    -  "  " 

J.  L.  FAST,     "    F.,P.  &T.  Agt.,       "  " 

This  is  a  three  foot  narrow-gauge  road,  run- 
ning south  from  Palisade  to  Eureka,  ninety 
miles.  It  was  completed  in  October,  1874,  and 
is  one  of  the  best  paying  roads  for  the  invest- 
ment in  all  the  country.  The  cars  are  exceed- 
ingly neat  and  comfortable,  and  the  average 
time  nearly  twenty-five  miles  an  hour.  The 
course  is  west,  across  the  Humboldt  River, 
and  then  south  up  Pine  Valley,  a  region  of 
sage  brush,  to 

Bullion — 8  miles  from  Palisade.  Next  is 
EVANS,  simply  a  side  track,  with  the  Cortez 
Mountains  on  the  west  or  right,  and  the  Dia- 
mond Range  opposite.  Agriculture  is  limited, 
but  cattle  and  sheep  find  extensive  ranges 
among  the  hills. 

Willard's  is  15  miles  from  Palisade,  and 
HAY  RANCH  19  miles.  Here  are  2,500  acres  of 
meadow  land  owned  by  the  railroad  company. 
About  1,000  tons  of  hay  are  cut  and  stored  an- 
nually. From  the  terminus  of  the  road  at 
Eureka,  the  company  send  hay  by  teams  of 
their  own  to  southeastern  Nevada — as  far  as 
Pioche.  They  employ  from  300  to  400  mules 
for  freighting  purposes,  and  their  ranch  shows 
unmistakable  signs  of  profit  to  the  road. 

Box  Springs — 28  miles — is  a  signal  station. 


SCENES  IN  THE  HUMBOLDT  DESERT. 

1.— The  Sink  of  the  Humboldt.    2.— Mountain  Scene  near  Deeth.    3.— Group  of  Piute  Indians.    4.— Humboldt  Hirer. 
6.— Great  American  Desert,  East  of  Elko.    6.— Wadsworth. 


199 


Undoubtedly  in  the  early  history  of  the  red 
men  were  to  be  found  many  examples  of  noble 
manhood  in  wild -life,  but,  alas!  all  the  romance, 
the  nobility,  and  the  qualities  to  be  admired  in 
this  race,  have  curiously  disappeared  with  the 
coming  of  the  white  man ;  and  here  viewing  the 
degraded  condition  of  the  remnant  of  a  once 
powerful  people,  the  traveler  may  better  appre- 
ciate the  vivid  picture  of  their  past  and  coming 
condition  drawn  by  Longfellow: — 
"How  canst  thou  walk  in  these  streets,  who 

hast  had  the  green  turf  of  the  prairies  ? 
How  canst  thou  breathe  in  this  air,  who  hast 

breathed  the  sweet  air  of  the  mountains  ? 
Ah!  'tis  vain  that  with  lordly  looks  of  disdain 

thou  dost  challenge 
Looks  of  dislike  in  return,  and  question  these 

walls  and  these  pavements, 
Claiming  the  soil  for  thy  hunting  grounds, 

while  down-trodden  millions 
Starve  in  the  garrets  of  Europe,  and  cry  from 

its  caverns  that  they,  too, 
Have  been  created  heirs  of  the  earth,  and  claim 

its  division ! 
Back,  then,  back  to  thy  woods  in  the  regions 

west  of  the  Wabash  ! 
There  as  a  monarch  thou  reignest.     In  autumn 

the  leaves  of  the  maple 
Pave  the  floors  of  thy  palace-halls  with  gold, 

and  in  summer 

Pine  trees  waft  through  its  chambers  the  odor- 
ous breath  of  its  branches. 
Hark  !  what  murmurs  arise  from  the  heart  of 

those  mountainous  deserts  ? 
Is  it  the  cry  of  the  Foxes  and  Crows,  or  the 

mighty  Behemoth, 
Who,  unharmed,  on  his  tusks  once  caught  the 

bolts  of  the  thunder, 
And  now  lurks  in  his  lair  to  destroy  the  race  of 

the  red  man  ? 
Far  more  fatal  to  thee  and  thy  race  than  the 

Crows  and  the  Foxes, 
Far  more  fatal  to  thee  and  thy  race  than  the 

tread  of  Behemoth, 
Lo!  the  big  thunder-canoe  that  steadily  breasts 

the  Missouri's 
Merciless   current !    And  yonder  afar  on  the 

prairies,  the  camp  fires 
Gleam  through  the  night;  and  the  cloud  of 

dust  in  the  gray  of  day-break 
Marks  not  the  buffalo's  track,  nor  theMandan's 

dexterous  horse-race: 
It  is  a  caravan,   whitening  the  desert  where 

dwell  the  Comanches  ! 
Ha  !  how  the  breath  of  these  Saxons  and  Celts, 

like  the  blast  of  the  east-wind, 
Drifts  evermore  to  the  west  the  scanty  smokes 

of  thy  wigwams  ! " 

Mineral — 37  miles— is  the  only  eating  sta- 
tion on  the  road.  As  usual  on  the  U.  P.  and 
C.  P.  the  charge  for  a  meal  is  $1.00.  Mineral 
derives  its  name  from  a  famous  pocket  mine  on 


the  east,  out  of  which  several  million  dollars 
were  taken  when  the  owners  were  willing  to 
sell  to  an  English  company,  who  have  been  idle 
most  of  the  time  since  purchasing. 

Deep  Wells — 42. 5  miles — was  named  from 
a  well  dug  to  supply  teams  with  water.  A  team 
usually  consisted  of  eighteen  mules,  and  the 
charge  for  water  was  SI. 00. 

Alplia  is  a  small  station  with  kilns  of  char- 
coal. After  leaving  Alpha  the  road  crosses 
Willow  Creek  and  continues  to  PINE  STATION, 
another  unimportant  place,  to 

Cedar,  a  name  common  for  the  trees  around 
it.  The  country  is  rough,  the  road  crooked, 
and  the  grades  heavy  to 

Summit,  the  dividing  ridge  between  Pine 
and  Diamond  Valleys.  The  road  follows  Dia- 
mond Valley,  and  makes  a  great  horseshoe 
curve  of  peculiar  interest  to  the  tourist,  to 

Garden  Pass  and  DIAMOND,  unimportant 
stations,  to 

Eureka,  a  town  with  a  population  of  6,000, 
great  enterprise,  public  spirit  and  prosperity. 
The  activity  in  mining  industry  is  apparent 
from  sixteen  furnaces,  with  a  capacity  of  from 
fifty  to  eighty  tons  of  ore  each,  daily,  and  with 
seven  smelting  works.  The  principal  hotels 
are  the  Jackson  and  the  Parker.  There  are  two 
daily  papers — the  Republican  and  the  Sentinel. 
The  various  smelting  and  refining  works  are 
accommodated  by  the  "  Ruby  Hill "  Railroad — 
six  miles  in  all — connected  with  the  Eureka  and 
Palisade  Road.  Eureka  is  the  base  of  supplies 
for  Hamilton — 40  miles — and  all  the  White  Pine 
country;  Austin,  80  miles;  Ward,  100  miles; 
Pioche,  190  miles;  Tybo,  100  miles,  and  Bel- 
mont,  100  miles.  Stages  connect  all  these 
points  with  Eureka. 

Leaving  Palisade,  the  traveler  will  notice  the 
railroad  bridge,  a  short  distance  out,  on  which  the 
narrow  gauge  crosses  the  river  on  its  way  south 
as  it  enters  Pine  Valley.  The  channel  of  the  river 
has  been  turned  from  its  bed  by  a  heavy  embank- 
ment, a  work  rendered  necessary  to  avoid  a  short 
curve,  and  on  we  go  over  a  very  crooked  piece  of 
road  for  nearly  six  miles,  when  we  cross  the  river, 
and  the  valley  again  opens.  We  have  now  passed 
through  the  Twelve  Mile  Canon,  and  arrive  at 

Cluro — a  way-station,  516  miles  from  San 
Francisco,  with  an  elevation  of  4,785  feet. 
Trains  do  not  stop  unless  signaled.  The  valley 
becomes  wider,  the  hills  more  sloping  and  less 
high  as  they  border  the  valley,  but  away  to  the 
left  are  the  higher  peaks  of  the  Cortez  Moun- 
tains. We  now  enter  an  open  basin,  and  on  the 
right  we  see  the  old  emigrant  road  making  tip 
the  hill  from  Gravelly  Ford.  One  branch  of 
this  road,  leading  to  the  same  ford,  we  also 
cross,  but  the  old  roadway,  plainly  visible  from 
the  cars,  up  the  hill  on  the  north  side  of  the  river, 
marks  the  locality  of  the  ford  itself.  The  river 
here  spreads  over  a  wide  gravelly  bed,  and  is 


200 


201 


always  shallow  so  that  it  is  easily  crossed.  The 
emigrants,  in  the  days  of  ox  and  mule  trains, 
took  advantage  of  this  crossing  to  send  letters, 
either  one  way  or  the  other,  by  outward  bound  or 
returning  trains.  They  would  split  a  willow 
sprout  by  the  side  of  the  road  and  put  their  let- 
ters in  it,  which  would  be  taken  out  by  some  one 
in  the  first  train  and  carried  to  the  nearest  post- 
office  on  the  route. 

In  1858,  it  is  said,  that  an  Indian  massacre 
took  place  here,  in  which  18  emigrants  were 
killed ;  and  other  skirmishes  with  the  gentle 
red  men,  were  frequently  in  order.  The  old  emi- 
grant road  is  fairly  lined  with  the  graves  of  emi- 
grants, who  perished  on  their  way  to  the  land  of 


finally  come  to  believe  it  themselves ;  and  this 
may  account  for  the  many  wonderful  stories  that 
have  been  palmed  off  on  some  book-makers,  and 
by  them,  in  turn,  hashed  up  for  the  traveling 
public.  Travelers  can  always  hear  all  they 
choose,  but  it  is  well  to  be  a  little  cautious  about 
believing  all  they  hear. 

The  Maiden's  Grave. — There  is  hardly  an 
old  resident  on  this  coast,  but  who  has  some  in- 
cident to  relate  in  reference  to  Gravelly  Ford.  It 
was  not  only  an  excellent  crossing  place,  but  it 
was  also  a  fine  camping  place,  where  both  man 
and  beast  could  recruit  after  the  weary  days  on 
the  dreary  plains.  There  were  wide  bottom- 
lands that  offered  excellent  grazing  for  stock, 


KNTEltING    HUMBOLUT   CANON. 


gold,  or  in  returning  from  the  same.  There  are, 
also,  many  of  the  Shoshones  and  Piutes  now 
living,  who  have  been  made  cripples  in  these 
battles  and  skirmishes  with  the  emigrants. 
ThejT  will  talk  about  them  with  their  acquaint- 
ances, and  say  "  heap  of  white  men  killed 
there,"  but  can  seldom  be  induced  to  say  how 
many  Indians  were  slain  in  the  same  conflict. 
Indeed,  parties  representing  each  side  of  the 
contending  forces  have  become  well  acquainted, 
and  now  frequently  meet  each  other  on  friendly 
terms.  There  is  a  disposition,  also,  among  these 
old  plainsmen  "  to  spin  yarns,"  equal  to  any  old 
navigator  that  ever  lived,  and  one  has  to  be  ex- 
tremely cautious  as  to  what  he  believes.  These 
old  story-tellers  are  like  old  Jim  Bridger — they 
will  tell  a  lie  so  often  and  so  earnestly,  that  they 


and  the  small  brush  along  the  banks  of  the 
stream  gave  excellent  shade  and  firewood.  On 
a  low  point  of  land  that  juts  out  toward  the 
river  on  the  south  side  of  the  track,  and  just  be- 
low this  ford,  is  the  Maiden's  Grave.  Tradition 
has  it  that  she  was  one  of  a  party  of  emigrants 
from  Missouri,  and  that,  at  this  ford,  while  they 
were  in  camp,  she  sickened  and  died.  Her  lov- 
ing friends  laid  her  away  to  rest  in  a  grave  on 
this  point  of  land,  in  plain  sight  of  the  ford  and 
of  the  valley  for  miles  in  either  direction.  But 
while  her  remains  were  crumbling  into  dust,  and 
she,  too,  was  fading  from  the  memory  of  all,  per- 
haps, but  her  immediate  relatives,  the  railroad 
builders  came  along,  and  found  the  low  mound, 
and  the  decayed  head-board  which  marked  her 
resting-place.  With  that  admiration  of,  and  de- 


202 


votion  to  woman,  which  characterizes  American 
citizens  of  even  humble  origin,  they  made  a  new 
grave  and  surrounded  it  with  an  enclosure — a 
picket  fence,  painted  white — and  by  the  side  of 
it  erected  a  cross,  the  emblem  of  the  Christian's 
faith,  which  bears  on  one  side,  this  legend — "  The 
Maiden's  Grave  " — and  on  the  other,  her  name, 
"  Lucinda  Duncan."  All  honor  to  the  men  whose 
respect  for  the  true  woman  led  them  to  the  per- 
formance of  this  praiseworthy  act — an  act  which 
would  have  been  performed  by  no  race  under  the 
heavens,  but  ours ;  and  not  by  them,  indeed,  to 
the  remains,  under  similar  circumstances,  of  a 
representative  of  the  sterner  sex.  The  location 
of  this  grave  is  near  Beowawe,  and  the  point  is 
now  used  as  a  burial  ground  by  the  people  living 
in  the  vicinity.  Passing  the  point  where  the 
grave  is  located,  an  extended  valley  comes  in 
from  the  left,  south  of  which  extends  the  Cor- 
tez  Range  of  Mountains.  We  now  arrive  at 

^Beowawe — 507  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, with  an  elevation  of  4,695  feet.  It 
has  a  hotel,  a  few  dwellings,  and  is  the 
station  where  the  business  of  the  Cortez 
Mining  District  is  transacted.  There  is  a 
beautiful  signification  attached  to  the  name  of 
this  station,  which  will  be  more  fully  realized 
after  the  station  is  passed,  than  before.  It 
means  "  gate,"  or  "  the  gate,"  and  as  you  look 
back  from  below,  the  conformation  of  the  hills 
on  either  side  of  the  valley  is  such,  that  the  sta- 
tion seems  to  stand  in  an  open  gateway,  up  the 
Humboldt  Valley  to  the  canon  beyond.  The 
valley  is  occasionally  dotted  with  farm-houses, 
or  ranches,  and  besides  stock  raising,  which  is 
one  of  the  principal  features  of  this  part  of  the 
country,  there  is  considerable  done  in  the  way  of 
agriculture,  barley  being  the  chief  crop — yield- 
ing immensely  when  the  land  is  properly  irri- 
gated and  the  crops  taken  care  of.  At  Beowawe 
an  immense  stretch  of  valley  land  can  be  seen 
away  to  the  right,  with  a  range  of  mountains, 
which  seems  to  be  an  extension  of  the  Reese 
River  Range,  north  of  the  Humboldt,  west  of  it. 
As  the  river  bends  northward  to  meet  these  val- 
leys, it  receives  the  waters  of  Boulder  and  Rock 
Creeks,  which  come  in  from  the  north  and  north- 
east. These  creeks  open  up  a  vast  country, 
which  is  well  occupied  by  ranches  and  stock- 
men. Leaving  Beowawe,  we  cross  a  large  valley 
and  sage  brush  plain — the  valley  coming  in  from 
the  south.  A  few  miles  out,  we  notice,  if  the 
weather  is  at  all  cool,  steam  rising  from  the  side 
of  the  mountain,  while  colored  streaks,  caused 
by  the  sediment  of  the  springs,  can  clearly  be 
seen  from  the  passing  train.  This  steam  comes 
from  the  Hot  Springs  on  the  mountain  side,  and 
the  sediment  marks  their  locality.  The  water 
in  some  of  these  springs  is  boiling  hot,  and  par- 
takes strongly  of  sulphur.  The  springs  are 
also  impregnated  with  iron.  A  creek  of  al- 
kali "water  comes  down  from  the  springs,  and 


we  cross  it  on  the  flat  alluded  to,  and  the  wid« 
valley  off  to  the  right  is  still  better  seen  as  we 
approach  and  pass 

Shoshone, — 546  miles  from  San  Francisco ; 
elevation,  4,636  feet.  It  is  simply  a  side  track 
station.  Rock  Creek,  before  spoken  of,  comes 
into  the  Humboldt  nearly  opposite  this  place, 
and  the  broad  valley  continues,  on  the  right  of 
the  road.  The  station  is  called  Shoshone  Point 
by  the  people  in  the  valley,  because  a  mountain, 
or  high  ridge,  pushes  out  into  the  valley,  like  a 
promontory.  This  is  one  of  the  landmarks  on 
the  dividing  line  between  the  Shoshone  and 
Piute  tribes  of  Indians ;  but  the  line  we  con- 
sider purely  imaginary,  from  the  fact  that  Indi- 
ans, as  a  general  thing,  go  where  they  please  in 
this  country,  lines  or  no  lines.  The  wide  basin 
spoken  of,  continues  below  and  off  to  the  right 
of  this  station,  and,  as  we  pass  on,  a  long  line  of 
board  fence  will  be  noticed  stretching,  from  a 
point  high  up  on  the  mountain,  across  the  track 
and  valley  toward  the  Humboldt  River,  on  the 
right.  This  is  the  eastern  line  of  Dunphy  &  Hil- 
dreth's  stock  ranche.  In  seven  miles  we  shall 
pass  the  western  line,  or  fence.  We  have  be- 
fore spoken  of  Iliff,  as  the  cattle  king  of  the 
plains,  and,  while  this  is  true  east  of  the  Black 
Hills  of  Wyoming,  he  will  have  to  yield  the 
crown  to  some  of  the  cattle  kings  of  the  Pacific 
Coast.  This  firm  has  20  miles  of  fencing  in 
these  two  lines:  They  have  over  20  thousand 
acres  fenced  in.  Their  fences,  made  of  redwood 
posts  ^ind  Oregon  pine  boards,  cost  them  a  little 
over  $900  per  mile.  They  have,  altogether, 
about  40,000  head  of  cattle,  mainly  in  two 
herds — one  here  and  the  other  north,  on  the 
Snake  River.  They  have  purchased  of  the  State, 
government  and  Central  Pacific  Railroad  and 
now  own  about  30,000  acres  of  land.  Most  of 
their  cattle  are  shipped  to,  and  find  a  market  in 
San  Francisco. 

The  immense  range  fenced  in  at  this  point  is 
occupied  by  a  select  herd  of  graded  stock,  and 
some  of  the  best  blooded  animals  in  the  country 
are  annually  purchased  to  improve  the  grades. 
The  Humboldt  Valley  and  its  tributaries  con- 
stitute the  best  part  of  the  State  for  stock 
ranges.  The  snow  seldom  falls  very  deep,  does 
not  stay  long,  and  the  grass  makes  its  appear- 
ance early  in  the  spring.  The  purchase  of 
large  tracts  of  land  by  these  foresighted  cattle- 
men will  give  them  a  monopoly  of  the  business 
in  the  future. 

Argenta — 486  miles  from  San  Francisco; 
elevation,  4,548  feet.  It  is  simply  a  side  track 
station,  where  considerable  hay  is  shipped. 
This  station  is  immediately  surrounded  by  alkali 
flats,  near  the  base  of  the  Reese  River  Moun- 
tains. The  road  continues  for  a  few  miles 
along  the  base  of  these  mountains,  when  sud- 
denly a  broad  valley  opens  out  on  the  left. 
It  is  the  valley  of  Reese  River.  We  turn  to 


203 


the  right,  cross  the  valley  and  the  river — all 
there  is  left  of  it — and  arrive  at 

Battle  Mountain — 474  miles  from  San 
Francisco,  with  an  elevation  of  4,511  feet — the 
junction  of  the  Nevada  Central  Railway,  has  a 
population  of  700.  It  is  located  at  the  junction 
of  the  Reese  River  and  Humboldt  Valleys. 
The  mountain  which  gives  it  its  name  is  about 
three  miles  south  of  the  station,  where  there 
are  magnificent  springs  from  which  water  is 
conducted  to  the  town,  supplying  the  railroad 
and  inhabitants  with  water.  In  the  midst  of 
a  surrounding  desert  he  will  observe  the  flow- 
ing fountain  and  patches  of  green  grass  which 
will  here  greet  his  eyes,  together  with  the  evi- 
dent taste  and  care  which  is  manifested  about 
everything  connected  with  the  house. 

The  town  has  several  quite  extensive  stores, 
a  public  hall,  an  excellent  school-house,  two 
large  freight  depots,  and  the  "Capital,"  a  first- 
class  hotel,  the  table  being  bountifully  supplied 
with  all  the  delicacies  of  the  season;  besides 
the  machine  shops  of  the  Nevada  Central  Rail- 
way. It  has  an  extensive  and  rapidly  increasing 
trade  with  the  surrounding  country,  and  newly 
developed  mining  districts  in  its  neighborhood. 
It  is  the  business  center  of  a  large  number  of 
stockmen,  and  the  trading  point  for  a  large 
number  of  mining  districts — districts  consid- 
erably scattered  over  quite  a  large  part  of  the 
State.  The  town  is  located  in  Lander  County, 
but  is  not  the  county-seat.  Austin,  ninety 
milestaway,  claims  that  honor. 

The  following  mining  districts,  south  of  the 
railroad,  are  more  or  less  tributary  to  Battle 
Mountain;  •commencing  on  the  east  side  of  the 
Reese  River  Range,  first  is  the  Lewis  Mining 
District,  sixteen  miles  distant  from  Battle 
Mountain.  It  is  located  on  the  northern  ex- 
tremity of  the  range.  At  the  southern  ex- 
tremity of  this  range  is  the  Austin  District. 
The  mountain  range  between  these  two  districts 
is  said  to  contain  mines,  but  it  has  not  been 
thoroughly  prospected.  The  Reese  River  Val- 
ley is  about  160  miles  long,  traversed  its  entire 
length  by  the  river  of  the  same  name,  though 
it  cannot  be  called  much  of  a  river  where  the 
railroad  crosses  it,  near  Battle  Mountain.  The 
upper  portion  of  the  valley,  about  fifty  miles  in 
length,  is  a  very  fine  agricultural  district,  is 
quite  well  settled,  and  is  tributary  to  Austin. 
The  valley  is  also  settled  in  places  where  moun- 
tain -streams  come  into  it,  between  Battle 
Mountain  and  Austin. 

On  the  west  side  of  the  Reese  River  Valley, 
and  immediately  south  of  Battle  Mountain,  are 
the  following  districts:  Battle  Mountain  Dis- 
trict, seven  miles  distant;  Galena  District,  six- 
teen miles;  Copper  Canon,  eighteen  miles,  and 
Jersey,  fifty-five  miles.  The  copper  mines  are 
owned  by  an  English  company.  The  Jersey 
District  produces  smelting  ore.  North  of  Bat- 


tle Mountain  are  the  Cornucopia  and  Tuscarora 
Districts. 

Battle  Mountain — not  north  of  the  Humboldt 
River,  but  about  three  miles  south  of  the  sta- 
tion— is  reported  to  have  been  the  scene  of  a 
conflict  between  a  party  of  emigrants  camped 
near  the  springs  heretofore  spoken  of, and  aband 
of  redskins  who  had  an  innate  hankering  after 
the  stock  of  the  said  party  of  emigrants.  The 
losses  of  this  battle  are  said  to  have  been  quite 
severe  on  both  sides,  considering  the  numbers 
engaged.  It  is  generally  conceded,  however, 
that  the  redskins  got  the  worst  of  it,  though 
they  say,  "  A  heap  white  men  killed  there." 

Battle  Mountain  is  supplied  with  water  from 
artesian  wells,  of  which  there  are  more  than  a 
dozen  from  100  to  280  feet  in  depth.  The  flow 
is  good,  one  discharging  through  an  inch  and 
a  half  pipe  seven  feet  above  the  surface  of  the 
ground. 

There  are  daily  stages  to  Tuscarora — 68  miles 
— fare,  $10.00;  to  Cornucopia,  80  miles,  $12.00; 
Columbia,  130  miles,  $20.00,  and  Mountain 
City,  100  miles,  $15.00. 

NEVADA   CENTRAL  RAILWAY. 

JOSEPH  COLLETT,      -      -     President  and  Supt. 

F.  W.  DUNN, Assistant  Supt. 

C.  W.  HINCHCLIFFE,  -  Sec.  &G.  F.  &P.  Agt. 
R.  AMEBMAN,  --  ------  Cashier. 

Leaving  Battle  Mountain  the  road  passes  up 
through  the  Reese  River  Valley  in  full  view  of 
Lewis  and  Galena,  respectively  situated  in  the 
mountain  ranges  lying  to  the  east  and  west  of 
the  tradk.  At  Galena  Station,  eleven  miles 
south  of  Battle  Mountain,  connections  are 
made  with  the  Battle  Mountain  and  Lewis 
Railway,  a  narrow-gauge  railway  running  up 
into  the  mountains  to  Lewis,  eight  miles  dis- 
tant. The  celebrated  Star  Grove  mines  are 
situated  up  a  beautiful  canon,  three  miles  above 
Lewis.  The  Battle  Creek  mine  lies  to  the  south. 

Lewis  is  a  thriving  and  prosperous  town, 
having  a  rapidly  growing  population,  two  good 
hotels,  numerous  stores  and  two  20-stamp 
mills;  a  new  40-stamp  mill  is  being  con- 
structed, and  when  completed  the  camp  will  be 
able  to  turn  out  twenty  bars  of  bullion  per 
day. 

Leaving  Galena  Station  we  continue  up  the 
valley,  passing  ANSONIA,  twenty-five  miles  dis- 
tant, near  which  station  are  about  sixty  hot* 
springs,  covering  half  a  section  of  land — the 
largest  is  sixty  feet  long,  thirty  wide,  and  rises 
and  falls  from  three  to  five  feet;  the  medicinal 
qualities  are  surpassed  by  none  in  the  State — 
until  we  reach  BRIDGES,  eight  miles  south  of 
Ansonia,  the  regular  eating  station  for  all 
trains.  Leaving  Bridges  we  enter  the  pictur- 
esque Reese  River  Canon,  twenty  miles  in. 
length.  The  valleys  in  the  canon  are  cultivated 
and  productive  of  rich  crops  of  hay  and  grain. 


204 


Tlie  tfreat  Plains  and  Desert. 


BY  JOAQUIN   MILLER. 


Go  ye  and  look  upon  that  land, 
That  far,  vast  land  that  few  behold, 
And  none  beholding,  understand  ; 
That  old,  old  land,  which  men  call  new, 
That  land  as  old  as  time  is  old : 

Go  journey  with  the  seasons  through 
Its  wastes,  and  learn  how  limitless, 
How  shoreless  lie  the  distances, 
Before  you  come  to  question  this, 
Or  dare  to  dream  what  grandeur  is. 

The  solemn  silence  of  that  plain, 
Where  unmanned  tempests  ride  and  reign, 
It  awes  and  it  possesses  you, 
'Tis,  oh,  so  eloquent. 

The  blue 

And  bended  skies  seem  built  for  it, 
With  rounded  roof  all  fashioned  fit, 
And  frescoed  clouds,  quaint-wrought  and  true : 
While  all  else  seems  so  far,  so  vain, 
An  idle  tale  but  illy  told, 
Before  this  land  so  lone  and  old. 

Lo  !  here  you  learn  how  more  than  fit, 
And  dignified  is  silence,  when 
You  hear  the  petty  jeers  of  men, 
Who  point,  and  show  their  pointless  wit. 
The  vastness  of  that  voiceless  plain, 
Its  awful  solitudes  remain, 
Thenceforth  for  aye  a  part  of  you, 


And  you  are  of  the  favored  fe\r, 
For  you  have  learned  your  littleness. 

Some  silent  red  men  cross  your  track ; 
Some  sun-tann'd  trappers  come  and  go ; 
Some  rolling  seas  of  buffalo 
Break  thunder-like  and  far  away, 
Against  the  foot  hills,  breaking  back, 
Like  breakers  of  some  troubled  bay ; 
But  not  a  voice  the  long,  lone  day. 

Some  white  tail'd  antelope  flow  by, 
So  airy-like  ;  some  foxes  shy, 
And  shadow-like  shoot  to  and  fro, 
Like  weaver's  shuttles  as  you  pass — ; 
And  now  and  then  from  out  the  grass, 
You  hear  some  lone  bird  chick,  and  cah, 
A  sharp  keen  call  for  her  lost  brood. 
That  only  make  the  solitude, 
That  mantles  like  some  sombre  pall, 
Seem  deeper  still,  and  that  is  all. 

A  wide  domain  of  mysteries, 
And  signs  that  men  misunderstand ! 
A  land  of  space  and  dreams  :  a  land 
Of  sea,  salt  lakes  and  dried  up  seas ! 
A  land  of  caves  and  caravans, 
And  lonely  wells  and  pools. 

A  land 

That  hath  its  purposes  and  plans, 
That  seem  so  like  dead  Palestine, 
Save  that  its  wastos  have  no  confine, 
Till  pushed  against  the  levell'd  skies. 


205 


On  either  side  and  above  tlio  railroad  rise  up 
precipitous  mountain  ranges,  whose  untold 
mineral  wealth  is  yet  to  be  brought  to  the  sur- 
face and  developed.  Emerging  from  the  canon 
we  stop  at  HALLSVAIJE,  twenty-three  miles  south' 
of  Bridges,  at  which  station  is  a  large  boarding- 
house,  owned  by  the  company,  and  used  for 
the  accommodation  of  the  trackmen  and  labor- 
ers. Between  Hallsvale  and  SILVER  CKEEK— 
five  miles — are  four  wood  stations,  from  which 
during  the  past  season  18,000  cords  of  wood 
have  been  shipped  to  the  mines  and  mills  at 
Austin  and  Lewis.  From  Silver  Creek  we 
traverse  the  banks  of  the  Beese  Biver,  pass- 
ing several  fertile  ranches  until  we  reach 
LKDUE,  eighty-seven  miles  from  Battle  Moun- 
tain. Ledlie  is  the  distributing  station  for 
freight  destined  to  all  points  in  central  and 
southern  Nevada,  from  where,  in  connection 
with  the  railroad,  are  run  the  fast  freight  teams 
of  Wrayner's  line,  transporting  freight  to  lone, 
Grantsville,  Ellsworth,  Gold  Mountain,  Silver 
Peak,  Belmont,  Jefferson,  Kingston  and  minor 
camps.  To  accommodate  this  traffic,  250  mules 
and  60  wagons  are  employed. 

Leaving  Ledlie  the  railroa<i  ascends  the  foot- 
hills and  reaches  AUSTIN,  six  and  a  half  miles 
distant,  with  an  elevation  of  6,021  feet.  Aus- 
tin is  a  city  of  3,000  inhabitants,  of  con- 
siderable spirit  and  culture.  It  is  the  county- 
seat  of  Lander  County,  has  a  fine  court-house, 
three  churches,  a  comfortable  theatre,  a  large 
brick  school-building,  a  banking  hou.se,  numer- 
ous large  business  blocks,  a  good  hotel  and 
some  magnificent  residences.  A  street  rail- 
way connects  at  the  depot,  transporting  both 
passengers  and  freight  from  one  of  the  city 
to  the  other.  At  the  upper  end  of  the 
city  are  the  mines  and  mills  of  the  Manhattan 
Silver  Mining  Company,  shipments  averaging 
ten  bars  of  bullion  per  day,  or  $300,000  per 
month.  Daily  stages,  carrying  passengers, 
mail  and  express,  leave  Austin  for  Kingston, 
Jefferson,  Belmont,  lone,  Grantsville,  Clover- 
dale  and  Candelaria,  to  and  from  which  points 
the  Nevada  Central  Railway,  in  connection  with 
the  stages,  forms  as  peedy  and  pleasant  route. 

How  the  Piutes  Catch  Fish. — Nearly 
all  the  Indians  seen  on  the  line  of  the  road  be- 
tween Battle  Mountain  and  Reno,  are  Piutes. 
They  are  great  rabbit-hunters,  and  very  success- 
ful in  fishing.  They  make  hooks  from  rabbit 
bones  and  greasewood,  which  are  certainly  su- 
perior to  the  most  improved  article  made  by  the 
whites.  This  hook  is  in  the  shape  of  what 
might  be  called  the  letter  "  V  "  condensed ;  that 
is,  the  prongs  do  not  spread  very  far.  A  line, 
made  of  the  sinews  of  animals,  or  the  bark  of  a 
species  of  wild  hemp,  is  attached  to  this  hook  at 
the  angle,  and  baited  with  a  snail  or  fresh  water 
bloodsucker.  Several  of  these  hooks  are  tied  to 
a  heavier  line,  or  a  piece  of  light  rope,  one  above 


the  other,  so  far  that  they  will  not  become  tan- 
gled or  snarled.  A  stone  is  then  tied  to  the  end 
of  the  heavy  line,  and  it  is  cast  into  the  stream. 
The  fish  take  the  bait  readily,  but  Mr.  Indian 
does  not  "  pull  up  "  when  he  feels  one  fish  on  the 
line.  He.  waits  until  the  indications  are  that 
several  fish  are  there — one  on  each  hook — and 
then  he  pulls  out  the  heavy  line,  with  fish  and  all. 
It  seems  that  the  hooks  are  so  made  that  they 
can  be  swallowed  easily  enough  with  the  bait,  but 
as  soon  as  the  fish  begins  to  struggle,  the  string 
acts  on  both  prongs  of  the  hook,  pulling  it 
straight,  the  ends  of  the  letter "  V "  hook,  of 
course,  piercing  its  throat.  It  can  neither  swal- 
low it,  nor  cast  it  forth  from  its  mouth.  The 
more  it  pulls  and  struggles,  the  more  straight- 
ened the  hook  becomes.  Besides  the  superiority 
of  this  hook,  one  fish  being  caught,  others  are 
naturally  drawn  around  it,  and  seize  the  tempt- 
ing bait  upon  the  fatal  hook.  In  this  way  an  In- 
dian will  catch  a  dozen  or  so  fish,  while  a  white 
man,  with  his  fancy  rod  and  "  flies  "  and 
"  spoons,"  and  other  inventions  to  lure  the  finny 
tribes  and  tempt  them  to  take  a  bait,  will  catch 
not  one. 

Leaving  Battle  Mountain  we  have  a  straight 
track  for  about  20  miles,  across  a  sage  brush 
plain,  the  river  and  a  narrow  strip  of  bottom- 
lands, on  our  right. 

Piute, — 469  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with 
no  elevation  given,  and 

Coin, — 462  miles  from  San  Francisco,  are 
simply  side  track  stations  where  trains  meet  and 
pass,  but  of  no  importance  to  the  traveler.  There 
was  no  Indian  battle  fought  near  Piute,  nor  does 
the  Reese  River  sink  into  the  valley  here.  What 
battle  there  was,  was  fought,  as  before  stated, 
about  three  miles  south  of  Battle  Mountain  Sta- 
tion, and  what  the  sands  in  the  valley  do  not  ab- 
sorb of  the  waters  of  Reese  River,  may  be  seen — 
a  little  alkali  stream — flowing  across  the  railroad 
track,  east  of  Battle  Mountain,  to  effect  a  junc- 
tion with  the  Humboldt  River. 

Stone  House, — 455  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, with  an  elevation  of  4,422  feet.  This  was 
not  an  old  trading  post,  but  a  station  in  former 
tunes  of  the  Overland  Stage  Company,  and  the 
house,  built  of  stone  near  some  very  fine  springs, 
was  one  of  the  eating-houses  on  their  line,  where 
travelers  could  relish  square  meals  of  bacon  and 
coffee  with  safety.  There  is  no  particular  ravine 
near  the  old  ruins  which  the  traveler  would 
notice  as  an  impregnable  fortress.  Quite  a 
number  of  skirmishes  are  reported  to  have  taken 
place  near  this  station,  however,  and  the  graves 
yet  distinguished  in  its  vicinity  tell  of  the  num- 
ber who  were  killed  near  this  place,  or  died  here 
on  their  journey  to  the  golden  shores  of  the 
Pacific.  Stone  House  Mountain,  as  it  is  now 
called,  rears  its  head  just  back  of  the  crumbling 
ruins,  and  from  its  summit  a  most  extensive  and 
beautiful  view  of  the  neighboring  valleys  and 


206 


surrounding  country  can  be  obtained.  On  the 
western  slope  of  this  mountain,  and  about 
seven  miles  from  the  station,  are  some  hot 
springs  similar  to  others  found  in  the  Great 
Basin.  During  the  passage  of  the  Humboldt 
Valley  we  cress  several  dry  valleys,  between 
ranges  of  mountains  that  seem  to  be  cut  in 
twain  by  the  river.  These  valleys  are  mostly 
covered  with  sand  and  sagebrush;  occasionally 
they  have  streams  flowing  down  from  the  moun- 
tains which  soon  sink  in  the  sands.  There  is  a 
wide  valley  ot  this  description  north  of  the 
track  as  we  approach 

Iron  Point — 442  miles  from  San  Francisco; 
elevation,  4,375  feet.  This  station  is  near  the 
point  of  a  low  ridge,  witn  barren  sides  and 
rocky  summit;  the  rocks  a  little  reddish,  indi- 
cating the  proximity  of  iron.  It  is  a  shipping 
point  for  cattle,  and  has  extensive  stock  yards, 
though  there  are  no  other  accommodations  near 
by.  This  ridge  was  formerly  considered  the 
boundary  line  between  the  Shoshones  and 
Piutes,  and  a  trespass  by  either  party  has  been 
the  cause  of  many  an  Indian  war.  The  wasting 
away  of  these  tribes,  however,  renders  the  line 
simply  imaginary,  and  the  rights  of  either 
party  to  exclusive  privileges  on  either  side  are 
no  longer  regarded.  The  valley  now  narrows, 
and  we  pass  through  a  sort  of  a  canon,  with  high 
bluffs  on  both  sides  of  the  road.  We  wind  round 
numerous  curves,  and  after  the  canon  is  passed, 
we  shall  see  the  remains  of  an  old  irrigating 
ditch  that  was  started  here  by  a  French  com- 
pany to  take  water  from  the  Humboldt  and 
carry  it  down  the  valley  quite  a  distance  for 
irrigating  and  mill  purposes.  A  great  amount 
of  labor  and  money  was  expended  upon  this 
enterprise,  but  it  was  finally  abandoned. 
Emerging  from  a  short  canon,  the  valley  again 
begins  to  widen.  This  pass  was  called  Emigrant 
Canon  in  the  days  of  wagon  travel. 

Golconda — 431  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
with  an  elevation  of  4,385  feet.  The  little 
town  here  has  one  or  two  stores,  a  hotel,  several 
adobe  houses,  and  the  usual  railroad  conven- 
iences. Golconda  is  favorably  located,  as  re- 
gards two  or  three  important  mining  districts. 
It  is  also  the  location  of  some  eight  or  ten  hot 
mineral  springs,  which  are  passed  on  the  right 
side  of  the  track,  just  after  leaving  town.  These 
springs  vary  in  temperature  from  cool,  or  tepid 
water,  to  that  which  is  boiling  hot.  The 
swimming  bath — an  excavation  in  the  ground — 
is  supplied  with  tepid  water,  and  is  said  to  be 
very  exhilarating.  The  Boiling  Spring  is  util- 
ized by  the  farmers  in  the  valley  in  scalding 
their  swine.  The  water  is  said  to  be  hot  enough 
to  boil  an  egg  in  one  minute.  Here  clouds  of 
steam  can  be  seen  when  the  weather  is  cold, 
rising  ^  from  the  hot  water  and  warm  soil  sur- 
rounding. One  of  the  springs  near  this  station 
is  also  a  curiosity,  and  should  be  visited  by 


tourists.  It  is  conical  in  shape,  like  an  inverted 
tea-cup,  four  or  five  feet  high,  with  a  basin 
about  three  feet  in  diameter  on  the  top.  For- 
merly the  water  came  in  at  the  bottom  of  this 
basin  and  bubbled  over  the  rim;  but  a  few 
years  since  it  was  tapped  from  below,  and  the 
water  now  flows  out  at  the  side,  leaving  the 
basin  and  cone  as  it  was  formed  by  the  sedi- 
mentary incrustations  and  deposit.  The  water 
flowing  from  the  hot  spring  is  used  for  irrigat- 
ing purposes,  and  the  owners  of  the  spring 
have  a  monopoly  of  early  vegetable  "garden 
truck,"  raising  early  radishes,  lettuce,  onions, 
etc.,  before  their  season,  by  the  warmth  pro- 
duced from  the  hot  water. 

Sunday  excursion  trains  are  run  from  "Winne- 
mucca  to  accommodate  parties  who  desire  to 
enjoy  the  luxury  of  these  springs. 

Gold  Run  Mining  District,  south  of  Golconda, 
is  tributary  to  the  place. 

Paradise  District,  of  gold  and  silver  mines,  is 
about  eighteen  miles  north  of  Golconda. 

Title — 420  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with 
an  elevation  of  4,313  feet.  It  is  simply  a 
side  track  of  no  importance  to  travelers,  and 
trains  seldom  stop.  After  leaving  Golconda, 
we  look  toward  the  north  and  see  the 
opening  of  Eden  Valley.  East  of  this  val- 
ley, and  to  our  right,  is  the  Soldier's 
Spring  Range,  a  broken  range  of  moun- 
tains. Eden  Valley  extends  north  to  the  Little 
Humboldt  River.  In  fact,  this  river  flows  through 
the  upper  portion  of  the  valley,  and  rises  in  the 
range  just  named,  and  flows  in  a  south-westerly 
direction  through  Paradise  Valley  and  unites 
with  the  Humboldt,  nearly  opposite,  north  of 
Tule.  Paradise  Valley  is  a  fine  agricultural 
basin,  thickly  settled,  about  30  miles  north. 
Paradise  Valley  is  the  name  of  the  post-office — 
a  semi-weekly  line  of  mail  stages  connecting  it 
with  Winnemucca,  the  county-seat  of  Humboldt 
County.  This  valley  is  shaped  like  a  horseshoe, 
and  produces  superior  crops  of  bai'ley,  wheat, 
rye  and  all  kinds  of  vegetables.  It  seems  to 
have  a  depression  in  the  center,  and,  while  it  is 
nearly  all  cultivated,  the  best  crops  are  raised  on 
the  slopes  toward  the  mountains.  The  soil  is  a 
black,  gravelly  loam,  and  sage  brush  grows  on 
the  slopes  to  enormous  size.  Experiments  in 
fruit  culture  have  been  tried,  but,  thus  far,  with 
indifferent  success.  Paradise  Valley  has  a  flour- 
ing-mill,  store  and  dwellings,  and  gives  every  in- 
dication of  thrift.  Its  name  indicates  the  nigh 
esteem  in  which  it  is  held  by  the  settlers.  It  is 
nearly  surrounded  by  mountains,  and  the  numer- 
ous streams  flowing  down  from  them,  afford  am- 
ple water  for  irrigation.  Most  of  these  streams 
sink  in  the  ground  before  they  reach  the  Little 
Humboldt.  Five  miles  beyond  Tule,  we  reach 

IViitttemucca, — 463  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco ;  elevation,  4,332  feet.  It  is  named  in 
honor  of  the  chief  of  the  Piute  tribeof  Indians. 


207 


The  name  itself  means  "chief,"  and  is  given 
to  any  member  of  the  tribe  who  holds  that 
office.  The  Piutes  are  divided  into  several  bands, 
each  under  a  chief  they  call  "Captain,  "thought 
here  to  be  derived  from  the  Spanish,  and  to 
mean  the  same  as  our  English  word,  "  captain." 
Winnemucca  is  now  about  seventy -six  years  old, 
and  lives  on  the  Malheur  ^Reservation  in  Oregon 
— a  reservation  occupied  by  the  Piutes  and 
Bannocks.  He  is  very  much  respected — almost 
worshipped  by  his  dusky  followers. 

The  town  is  the   county-seat  of  Humboldt 
County,  and  has  a  population  of  about  900  peo- 


•WTNNEMUCOA,  TH«  NAPOLEON  Of  THB  PIOTTES. 

pie,  among  whom  are  some  Indians,  and  quite 
a  number  of  Chinamen.  It  is  the  western  ter- 
minus of  the  Humboldt  Division  of  the  Central 
Pacific,  has  a  large  roundhouse,  two  large  freight 
depots  and  the  usual  offices,  etc. ,  for  the  accom- 
modation of  the  railroad  business.  An  elegant 
brick  court-house  has  been  erected,  together  with 
several  stores,  hotels,  shops,  alargeflouring-mill, 
a  foundry,  a  10-stamp  quartz  mill,  with  a  capac- 
ity for  crushing  ten  tons  of  ore  every  24  hours, 
and  other  public  improvements  completed,  or  in 
contemplation.  The  town  is  divided  into  two 
parts — upper  and  lower;  the  latter  being  built 
on  the  bottom  land  near  the  river,  and  the  upper 


on  a  huge  sand-bank,  adjoining  the  railroad. 
Most  of  the  buildings  are  frame,  though  a  few 
are  built  of  brick  or  adobe,  which,  in  this 
western  country,  are  called  "  dobe  "  for  short. 

There  is  a  school-house  with  accommodations 
for  about  150  pupils — two  apartments,  and  no 
churches.  It  is  also  quite  a  shipping  point  for 
cattle  and  wool.  About  9,000  head  of  cattle 
were  shipped  to  the  San  Francisco  market  from 
this  place,  in  the  months  of  January  and  Feb- 
ruary of  the  present  year.  In  the  spring  of 
1875,  over  500,000  Ibs.  of  wool  were  shipped  to 
New  York  and  Boston  markets.  It  is  also  the 
shipping  point  to  Camp  McDermott,  near  the 
northern  line  of  the  State;  to  Silver  City  and 
Boise  City,  Idaho;  and  to  Baker  and  Grant 
counties,  in  southeastern  Oregon.  The  stage 
lines  are  as  follows:  Daily  stage  and  mail  line 
to  Silver  City  and  Boise  City,  Idaho — distance 
to  Silver  City,  210  miles,  extension  to  Boise,  65 
miles  farther.  The  same  line  supplies  Camp 
McDermott,  85  miles  distant.  Semi-weekly 
line,  Mondays  and  Fridays,  to  Paradise  Valley, 
45  miles.  There  was  also  an  immense  freight- 
ing business  done  with  the  mining  districts  in 
the  vicinity,  and  with  Idaho  Territory.  Begu- 
lar  freight  lines  are  on  the  road  between  this 
place  and  Silver  City. 

The  following  mining  districts  are  tributary 
to  Winnemucca  and  located  in  Humboldt 
County,  beginning  north  of  the  railroad:  Wil- 
low Creek,  about  60  miles  distant;  Bartlett 
Creek,  gold  and  silver,  100  miles  distant. 
Varyville  is  the  town  of  this  camp. 

Central  District,  in  Eugene  Mountain,  south- 
west of  the  town,  produces  silver  ore. 

South  of  the  railroad  there  is  Jersey  District 
and  town,  65  miles  distant.  The  business  of 
this  mining  camp  is  divided  between  Battle 
Mountain  and  this  place — both  claiming  it. 

Antimony  District  is  80  miles  due  south  of 
Winnemucca.  Slabs  of  that  mineral,  weighing 
three  tons,  and  averaging  70  per  cent,  pure 
antimony,  can  be  obtained  in  this  district. 
Near  it  is  the  Humboldt  Salt  Marsh,  where 
salt,  95  per  cent,  pure,  can  be  shoveled  up  by 
the  wagon  load.  This  salt  deposit  is  very  ex- 
tensive, and  the  supply  seems  to  be  exhaustless. 
Underneath  the  surface  deposit,  rock  salt,  or 
salt  in  large  cakes  or  slabs,  is  taken  out  in  the 
driest  part  of  the  season,  by  the  ton. 

In  the  valley  leading  to  the  above-named  dis- 
trict are  some  very  fine  hot  springs,  but  they 
are  so  common  here  as  to  be  no  curiosity. 
Kyle's,  35  miles  southwest,  and  Leach's,  8  miles 
from  Unionville,  the  old  county-seat,  and  Gol- 
conda,  16  miles,  to  which  Sxinday  excursions 
trains  run,  are  the  most  noted.  Twelve  miles 
out,  in  the  same  valley,  is  a  rich  agricultural 
district,  thickly  settled,  where  not  only  grain 
and  vegetables  have  been  successfully  cultivat- 
ed, but  the  experiments  in  fruit  culture  have 


208 


also  proved  successful.  At  the  county  fair, 
held  in  this  city  during  the  fall  of  1875,  fine 
specimens  of  apples,  peaches,  pears  and  plums 
were  exhibited  which  were  raised  in  this  valley. 
As  the  tourist  walks  the  platform  at  this 
place,  looking  across  the  river  to  the  right,  he 
will  see  Winnemucca  Mountain,  but  a  short 
distance  away,  overlooking  the  town.  To  the 
left,  he  will  observe  the  peaks  of  the  Franklin 
or  Sonoma  Range.  To  the  east,  and  somewhat 
distant,  are  the  ragged  summits  of  the  Soldier's 
Spring  Range,  while  a  little  to  the  southwest, 
but  apparently  in  front,  Eugene  Mountain  lifts 
itself  up  as  a  landmark  to  guide  the  traveler  on 
his  way.  This  mountain  will  be  passed  on  our 
left  as  we  continue  the  journey.  Winnemuc- 
ca has  one  newspaper — the  Daily  Silver  State. 


tribe,  to  their  honor  be  it  said,  licentiousness 
among  their  women  is  very  rare,  and  virtue  is  held 
in  high  esteem.  But  very  few  half-breed  Indians 
can  be  found,  nor  are  they  known  in  the  State. 
This  tribe,  with  the  Bannocks,  were  especially 
hostile  to  the  whites  in  an  early  day,  and  fought 
for  many  years  with  desperation  and  cruelty  to 
prevent  the  settlement  and  development  of  this 
country.  Their  courage  and  deadly  enmity  have 
been  displayed  on  many  a  hard-fought  field,  and 
if  there  are  families  in  the  East  or  on  the  Pacific 
Coast,  who  still  mourn  the  loss  of  missing  ones, 
who  were  last  heard  of  as  crossing  the  plains, 
some  Indian  warrior,  yet  living,  might  be  able  to 
explain  the  mystery  which  has  enveloped  their 
final  doom.  For  a  number  of  years,  with  cease- 
less vigilance,  they  hung  aroung  the  trains  of 


TWO  BITS  TO  SEE  THE  PAPPOO8E. 


Both  are  energetic  little  sheets,  and  fitly  illus- 
trate the  enterprise  of  these  "Western  towns. 
Across  the  river,  over  a  wooden  bridge,  is  located 
the  cemetery,  in  which  the  remains  of  the  dead 
are  enclosed.  It  is  on  an  elevated,  sandy  beach, 
the  second  terrace  or  step  from  the  river  level. 
By  it  winds  the  stage  road  to  Idaho  and  the 
north.  The  Piutes  have  their  tents  scattered 
on  all  sides  of  the  town,  to  which  the  euphoni- 
ous name  of  "  "Wick-ee-ups  "  is  given.  They 
serve  to  remind  one  of  the  departing  glory — if 
they  ever  had  any— of  the  Indian  race.  In  this 


emigrants,  eager  to  dispatch  a  stray  victim,  or 
upon  the  borders  of  settlements,  ready  to  strike 
down  the  hardy  pioneer  at  the  first  favorable 
opportunity.  At  present,  overpowered  by  num- 
bers, they  live  upon  the  bounty  of  their  former 
enemies,  and  are  slowly,  but  surely,  learning,  by 
example,  the  ways  of  civilization.  As  a  class, 
however,  they  are  still  indolent,  dirty  and  cov- 
ered with  vermin.  But  they  begin  to  learn  the 
worth  of  money,  and  know  already  that  it  has  a 
purchasing  power  which  will  supply  their  scanty 
wardrobe,  and  satisfy  their  longing  appetites. 


209 


The  mines  on  the  top  of  "Winnemucca  Moun- 
tain are  plainly  seen,  and  the  road  that  leads  to 
them  from  the  cars,  and  the  tourist  from  this 
will  be  able  to  understand  something  of  the 
difficulties  attending  the  process  of  getting  out 
ore.  These  mines,  like  many  others  tributary 
to  this  point,  are  not  worked  at  present. 

As  we  pass  westward,  a  grand  view  of  a 
distant  range  is  obtained  between  Winnemucca 
and  Black  Butte.  The  last  named  moun- 
tain is  an  isolated  peak,  and  stands  out  like 
a  sentinel  on  guard.  As  we  approach  the 
higher  peaks  of  the  East  or  Humboldt  Range, 
we  pass 

Rose  Creek — 403  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, with  an  elevation  of  4,322  feet.  It  is  an 
unimportant 
station,  with 
side  track,  etc. 
You  will  have 
to  look  sharp 
to  see  the 
creek  or  the 
roses,  and,  by 
way  of  variety, 
you  will  dis- 
cover plenty  of 
sage  brush.  It 
is  a  staple  arti- 
c  le  in  this 
country.  The 
river  still  winds 
its  way  along 
our  right,  and 
there  is  an  oc- 
casional ranch 
on  the  moun- 
tain  slope, 
where  the 
water  from 
some  spring  or 
little  creek  can 
be  obtained  for 
irrigation. 

Raspberry 
—393  miles 
from  San  Fran- 
cisco; elevation 
4,327  feet.  If 

roses  were  few  and  far  between  at  the 
station,  raspberries  are  less  frequent  here. 


these  names  are  tantalizing  and  suggestive  in 
the  places  they  are  applied  to.  Having  turned 
the  point  of  East  Eange,  we  bear  off  to  the 
left.  Eugene  Mountain  is  now  on  our  right, 
across  the  Humboldt  River. 

Mill  City — 386  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
with  an  elevation  of  4,225  feet.  This  was  once 
a  town  with  great  prospects.  It  was  to  be  the 
terminus  of  the  irrigating  ditch  which  we  saw 
beyond  Winnemucca  and  Golconda. 

The  town  has  become  a  great  shipping  point 


B.  B.  STATION,  HUMBOLDT,  NEVADA. 


last 
But 


for  cattle — 100  cars  being  shipped  last  year — 
a  number  which  is  greatly  exceeded  in  some 
years.  It  has  a  steam  foundry  in  operation — 
mostly  employed  in  the  manufacture  and  re- 
pair of  mining  machinery — and  is  the  railroad 
point  where  the  business  of  several  mining  dis- 
tricts is  done.  Ore  from  Dun  Glen,  Union- 
ville  and  Star  City,  comes  here  for  shipment, 
and  once  per  week,  bullion  comes  over  from 
Unionville.  This  last  place  was  formerly  more 
lively  than  at  present.  It  is  a  town  of  about 
300  people — has  four  quartz  mills  in  operation, 
and  is  connected  with  Mill  City  by  a  daily 
stage  line,  which  passes  by  Star  City — distance 
to  Unionville,  twenty  miles;  to  Star  City,  ten 
miles;  to  Dua  Glen,  eight  miles.  The  general 

course  of  the 
railroad  being 
east  and  west, 
these  places  are 
all  south  of  it. 
The  mining 
districts,  in- 
cluding the 
towns  named, 
which  are 
tributary  to 
this  place,  •  are 
Unionville, 
Star  and  Indi- 
an Districts — 
all  tributary  to 
Mill  City.  MiU 
City  has  a  neat 
little  hotel,  a 
livery  stable 
and  several 
dwellings. 

Leaving  Mill 
City,    we  pass 
rapidly  by  an 
opening  or  gap 
in   the    moun- 
tains   on    our 
left,    while    a 
broad      extent 
of  valley  opens 
out   on    our 
right     as   Eu- 
gene Mountain  sinks  into  the  plain.    The  river 
recedes  from  our  view,  and  winds  along  across 
an  alkali  flat  some  six  or  seven  miles  away. 

In  coming  down  this  valley  from  Mill  City, 
we  pass  a  high  mountain  on  our  left — said  to 
be  the  highest  peak  in  Nevada — 8, 000  feet  high. 
It  is  called  Star  Peak.  The  elevation  given  is 
the  common  rumor  in  the  vicinity.  It  is  cer- 
tainly a  high  mountain,  and  its  lofty  towers  are 
nearly  always  covered  with  snow.  Opposite, 
this  mountain  is 

Huitiboldt—42£  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
with  an  elevation  of  4,236  feet  above  the  sea — 


210 


nearly  the  same  as  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  We 
have  been  coming  down  hill  all  the  way  from 
Wells,  and  yet  we  are  no  lower  than  wlien  we 
left  Ogden.  We  have  now  arrived  at 

A.n  Oasis  in  the  Desert. 

The  traveler  from  the  East,  will  be  especially 
delighted  with  this  spot.  It  will  remind  him  of 
things  human,  of  living  in  a  land  of  cultivation 
again.  The  first  growing  trees  since  leaving 
Ogdeu  will  be  seen  here,  with  green  grass,  shady 
bowers  and  flowing  fountains.  Humboldt 
House  is  a  regular  breakfast  and  supper  station, 
at  which  all  passenger  trains  stop  for  meals. 
The  proprietors  have  been  here  quite  a  number 
of  years,  and  seem  to  delight  in  making  their 
house,  and  surroundings  beautiful  and  attractive 
to  the  traveling  public.  A  fountain  surrounded 
with  an  iron  fence,  springs  up  in  front  of  the 
house,  while  gold-fish  swim  around  in  the  basin 
below.  East  of  the  house,  trees,  locusts  and 
poplars  are  growing  finely,  while  the  ground  is 
covered  with  a  thick  matting  of  blue-grass.  At 
first  this  lot  was  sown  to  alfalfa,  which  grew 
very  rank  and  strong.  Blue-grass  seed  was 
afterwards  sown,  and  now  it  has  rooted  every- 
thing else  out  and  grows  luxuriantly.  A  field 
south  of  the  road  toward  the  mountain,  has  pro- 
duced 18  tons  of  alfalfa  at  one  cutting,  and  has 
been  cut  from  five  to  seven  times  a  year.  In  the 
garden  north  of  the  house,  toward  the  valley,  all 
kinds  of  vegetables  grow  luxuriantly.  The 
average  yield  of  potatoes  is  300  bushels  to  the 
acre,  of  the  very  best  quality.  We  were,  how- 
ever, particularly  interested  in  the  experiments 
made  in  fruit  growing.  Here  in  the  midst, 
almost,  of  the  Great  Nevada  Desert,  with  barren- 
ness and  desolation  spread  out  on  every  hand — 
with  a  high  rocky  mountain  on  one  side,  and  a 
huge  alkali  flat  on  the  other,  nestled  under  the 
towering  cliffs  as  though  it  would  claim  shelter 
and  protection,  is  this  Oasis  in  the  desert, — this 
reminder  of  more  genial  climes  and  a  more 
kindly  soil — this  relief  from  the  wearisome, 
dreary  views,  which  have  everywhere  met  our 
gaze,  over  the  largest  part  of  the  journey.  The 
experiments  so  successful  here  prove,  beyond  a 
doubt,  that  the  desert  can  be  reclaimed  and 
"  made  to  bud  and  blossom  as  the  rose."  Grit, 
labor  and  above  all,  water,  will  do  it.  Here  is 
an  orchard  of  apple  trees  five  years  old,  bearing 
not  only  fruit  as  beautiful  to  the  eye  as  that 
raised  in  California,  but  superior  in  flavor — in 
fact  retaining  the  flavor  of  eastern  apples. 
These  apple  trees  of  all  varieties  are  prolific 
bearers,  and  the  same  is  true  of  the  peaches, 
pears,  plums  and  cherries.  In  the  orchard  and 
opposite  the  water  tank,  is  a  fish-pond  some 
25  or  30  feet  in  diameter.  In  it  are  trout,  great 
speckled  fellows,  very  thick  and  very  shy. 
Rocky  coves,  have  been  built  for  them  in  the 
bottom  and  center  of  the  basin,  and  here  they 


hide — seeking  snade  from  the  rays  of  the  hot  sum- 
mer's sun,  and  also  from  those  of  the  silvery 
moon.  The  experiments  first  made  with  these 
fish  were  costly,  but  have  at  last  proved  suc- 
cessful. This  place  and  its  surroundings  cause 
the  traveler  not  only  to  rejoice  over  the  scene 
which  here  greets  his  gaze,  but  serves  to  remind 
him  of  home — of  "  God's  country  "  either  in  the 
far  East  or,  at  this  point,  in  the  nearer  West. 

In  the  fish-pond  mentioned,  there  are  a  couple 
of  wild  geese,  and  a  Mandarin  duck  said  to  be 
from  Japan.  It  is  a  beautiful  little  creature 
with  tufts  of  feathers  on  each  side  of  its  head, 
and  finely  colored  plumage.  The  proprietors  of 
the  Humboldt  House,  seem  to  strive  to  offer 
attractions  to  their  guests  in  both  their  indoor 
accommodations,  and  outside  arrangements. 

The  station  has  shipped  a  large  number  of 
cattle,  and  is  the  shipping  point  for  the  sulphur 
or  brimstone,  that  is  manufactured  some  thirty 
miles  northwest  of  the  place.  The  old  emi- 
grant road  leading  to  Northern  California 
and  Southern  Oregon,  winds  around  the  base  of 
Eugene  Mountain  and  near  a  low  butte,  re- 
sembling a  haystack,  which  can  be  seen  in  the 
distance  across  the  alkali  flats.  This  road  was 
laid  out  by  General  F.  W.  Lander,  who  was 
killed  in  the  war  of  1861,  and  is  said  to  be  one 
of  the  best  wagon  routes  to  the  regions  named. 
The  Humboldt  House  is  the  place  of  resort  for 
tourists  who  desire  to  visit  the  sulphur  mines, 
Star  Peak,  or  the  mining  districts  in  the  Hum- 
boldt Range,  Eugene  Mountain,  and  the  Ante- 
lope Range.  The  latter  is  a  low  range  on  our 
right,  beginning  as  we  leave  this  station.  In 
front  and  south-east  of  the  Humboldt  House,  is 
the  Humboldt  Mining  District,  four  to  six  mile* 
distant.  Humboldt  Canon  opens  in  the  mountain 
side,  in  which  was  formerly  located  Humboldt 
City.  Mines  were  first  discovered  in  the  rocky 
gorges  of  this  range  in  1861,  and  there  was  a  great 
rush  here  from  all  parts  of  the  country.  The 
"  City  "  sprang  up  as  if  by  magic,  and  at  one 
time  contained  about  500  people.  Several  sub- 
stantial buildings  were  erected,  a  few  of  which, 
still  remain.  The  mines  were  diligently  pros- 
pected; but,  not  rewarded  with  immediate  suc- 
cess, the  expense  of  living  and  building  beingf 
very  great,  together  with  the  determined  hos- 
tility of  the  Indians,  the  people  left  it  as  sud- 
denly as  they  came.  The  district  remained 
idle  until  1874-5,  when  work  was  again  begun 
by  a  few  individuals.  The  ore  is  gold,  silver 
and  argentiferous  galena. 

Antelope  District  is  sixteen  miles  away,  in  a 
westerly  direction;  Geneva  District  is  twenty- 
one  miles  distant,  in  a  northwesterly  direction; 
both  of  these  are  but  little  developed. 

The  sulphur  mines  are  thirty  miles  away,  in 
a  northwesterly  direction.  Very  large  deposits 
of  native  sulphur  are  found  in  these  mines, 
which  will  average  nearly  75  per  cent.  pure. 


211 


There  are  two  mines  opened.  One  called  the 
Me  Worthy  Mine,  located  and  developed  by  Mr. 
Me  Worthy,  is  now  operated  by  a  San  Francisco 
company.  The  product  of  this  mine  is  refined 
by  retorts,  three  in  number,  which  are  now  in 
active  operation,  and  which  are  capable  of  pro- 
ducing about  three  tons  per  day  of  twenty -four 
hours.  The  mines  of  the  Pacific  Sulphur  Com- 
pany are  about  one  and  one-half  miles  distant 
from  the  McWorthy  Mines.  They  were  formerly 
known  as  the  Wright  and  Egbert  Mines.  The 
ore,  as  it  comes  from  the  mine,  is  a  mixture  of 
sulphur,  clay,  gypsum,  water.  This  company 
fuses  the  crude  or  mixed  ore  by  heat,  and  then 
separates  them  by  a  chemical  process,  which  is 
claimed  to  be  very  simple,  producing  the 
"  brimstone  "  of  commerce,  nearly  100  per  cent, 
fine.  The  deposits  lie  in  the  hills,  and  are 
found  from  20  to  100  feet  thick.  They  are  also 
found  in  some  of  the  adjoining  valleys,  but  are 
not  as  pure  in  the  valleys  as  in  the  hills.  They 
are  covered  with  ashes  and  mixed  with  extrane- 
ous matter.  In  fact,  wherever  these  deposits 
come  to  the  surface,  they  are  covered  with  ashes, 
nearly  white  in  color,  indicating  that  at  some 
period  they  were  on  fire,  and  that  the  fire  was 
extinguished — smothered — by  the  accumulation 
of  these  ashes.  When  "the  elements  shall 
melt  with  fervent  heat,"  the  vast  sulphur  de- 
posits of  Nevada  will  add  fuel  to  the  flames  and 
greatly  accelerate  the  melting  process. 

About  half  a  mile  west  of  Humboldt,  on  our 
right,  is  a  sulphur  deposit.  It  is  not  worked 
for  the  reason  of  its  impurities — a  far  better  ar- 
ticle of  crude  is  being  obtained  elsewhere.  The 
river,  still  on  our  right,  seems  to  have  cut  a 
deeper  channel  in  the  valley,  and  is  seldom  seen 
from  the  cars.  On  our  left  are  the  towering 
peaks  of  the  Humboldt  Range. 

A  Vigilance  Committee  Incident. — The 
following  incident  which  happened  in  one  of  the 
Nevada  mining  towns,  is  vouched  for  by  Clar- 
ence King : 

Early  in  the  fifties,  on  a  still,  hot  summer's 
afternoon,  a  certain  man,  in  a  camp  of  the 
northern  mines,  which  shall  be  nameless,  having 
tracked  his  two  donkeys  and  one  horse  a  half 
mile,  and  discovering  that  a  man's  track  with 
spur  marks  followed  them,  came  back  to  town 
and  told  "  the  boys,"  who  loitered  about  a  popu- 
lar saloon,  that  in  his  opinion  some  Mexican  had 
stolen  the  animals.  Such  news  as  this  demanded, 
naturally,  drinks  all  round. 

"  Do  you  know,  gentlemen,"  said  one  who  as- 
sumed leadership,  "  that  just  naturally  to  shoot 
these  greasers  aint  the  best  way?  Give  'em  a 
fair  jury  trial,  and  rope  'em  up  with  all  the 
majesty  of  the  law.  That's  the  cure." 

Such  words  of  moderation  were  well  received, 
and  they  drank  again  to  "Here's  hoping  we 
ketch  that  greaser." 

As  they  loafed  back  to  the  veranda,  a  Mexican 


walked  over  the  hill  brow,   jingling  nis  spurs 
pleasantly  in  accord  with  a  whistled  waltz. 

The  advocate  for  the  law  said  in  an  undertone, 
"  That's  the  cuss." 

A  rush,  a  struggle,  and  the  Mexican,  bound 
hand  and  foot,  lay  on  his  back  in  the  bar-room. 
The  camp  turned  out  to  a  man. 

Happily  such  cries  as  "  String  him  up  !  "  "Burn 
the  dogyoned  lubricator  !  "  and  other  equally  pleas- 
ant phrases  fell  unheeded  upon  his  Spanish  ear. 
A  jury  was  quickly  gathered  in  the  street,  and 
despite  refusals  to  serve,  the  crowd  hurried  them 
in  behind  the  bar. 

A  brief  statement  of  the  case  was  made  by  the 
ci-devant  advocate,  and  they  showed  the  jury  in- 
to a  commodious  poker-room  where  were  seats 
grouped  about  neat  green  tables.  The  noise 
outside,  in  the  bar-room,  by  and  by  died  away 
into  complete  silence,  but  from  afar  down  the 
canon  came  confused  sounds  as  of  disorderly 
cheering.  They  came  nearer,  and  again  the 
light-hearted  noise  of  human  laughter  mingled 
with  clinking  glasses  around  the  bar. 

A  low  knock  at  the  jury  door,  the  lock  burst 
in,  and  a  dozen  smiling  fellows  asked  the  ver- 
dict. A  foreman  promptly  answered,  "Not 
guilty." 

With  volleyed  oaths,  and  ominous  laying  of 
hands  on  pistol  hilts,  the  boys  slammed  the  door 
with  "  You'll  have  to  do  better  than  that" 

In  half  an  hour  the  advocate  gently  opened 
the  door  again. 

"  Your  opinion,  gentlemen?" 

«  Guilty." 

"  Correct,  you  can  come  out.  We  hung  him 
an  hour  ago." 

The  jury  took  theirs  next,  and  when,  after  a 
few  minutes,  the  pleasant  village  returned  to  its 
former  tranquility,  it  was  "  allowed  "  at  more  than 
one  saloon,  that  "Mexicans'll  know  enough  to 
let  white  men's  stock  alone  after  this."  One 
and  another  exchanged  the  belief  that  this  sort 
of  thing  was  more  sensible  than  "  nipping  'em  on 
sight." 

When,  before  sunset,  the  bar-keeper  concluded 
to  sweep  some  dust  out  of  his  poker-room  back- 
door,'he  felt  a  ntomentary  surprise  at  finding  the 
missing  horse  dozing  under  the  shadow  of  an 
oak,  and  the  two  lost  donkeys  serenely  masticat- 
ing playing-cards,  of  which  many  bushels  lay  in 
a  dirty  pile.  He  was  then  reminded  that  the 
animals  had  been  there  all  day. 

Rye  Patch, — 411  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
with  an  elevation  of  4,257  feet.  In  early  days, 
in  the  canons  that  put  down  from  the  mountains 
near  here  and  along  the  banks  of  the  little 
creeks  flowing  through  them,  there  were,  large 
patches  of  wild  rye,  from  which  the  station  took 
its  name.  The  increase,  however,  in  the  herds 
of  the  stockmen  has  destroyed  its  native  growth, 
and  it  is  now  seldom  seen.  It  is  a  small  station 
with  a  store  and  saloon,  freight-house,  side  track, 


212 


etc.  It  is  the  location  of  a  ten-stamp  mill  owned 
by  the  Rye  Patch  Mill  and  Mining  Company, 
and  which  is  supplied  by  ore  taken  from  the 
company's  mine  in  the  mountains  on  our  left. 
This  mine  is  about  four  miles  distant  from  the 
station.  The  Rye  Patch  Mining  District,  and 
the  Eldorado  Mining  District,  six  miles  away, 
are  tributary  to  this  place.  The  train  stops  but 
a  moment,  and  as  you  look  to  the  mountains,  on 
the  left,  two  high  peaks  are  seen — the  left  one 
being  Stark  Peak,  and  the  right  one  Eldorado 
Mountain.  This  is  the  best  view  of  these  mount- 
ains that  can  be  obtained.  Leaving  this  station, 
the  mountains  of  the  Humboldt  Range  gradually 
dwindle  into  hills,  and  a  conical  or  isolated  little 
peak  across  the  range  is  seen.  It  seems  fully  as 
prominent  as  a  wart  on  a  man's  nose.  It  is  called 
Black  Knob — a  very  appropriate  name — and  near 
it  is  Relief  Mine  and  mill.  There  is  no  stage  to 
this  mining  district,  and  its  principal  business 
point  is 

Oreana, — 400  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
with  an  elevation  of  4,181  feet.  The  descent 
from  Humboldt  has  been  quite  rapid,  and  we 
will  soon  be  at  the  lowest  elevation  in  this  great 
basin.  The  Antelope  Range  continues  on  the 
north-west,  and  the  Humboldt  Range  on  the 
left,  though  the  peaks  in  these  ranges  grow 
smaller  as  we  pass  this  place.  Oreana  is  the 
railroad  and  business  point  for  the  following 
mining  districts  :  in  the  Antelope  Range  is  the 
Trinity  District,  seven  miles  away,  ore  princi- 
pally milling.  The  Governor  Booth  Mine  has 
the  most  development  thus  far,  -though  other 
prospects  are  said  to  be  looking  well.  Some  of 
the  ore  found  in  this  district  is  claimed  to  be 
very  rich.  Adjoining  this  is  the  Arabia  Dis- 
trict, five  miles  from  the  station ;  it  has  smelt- 
ing ore.  Three  miles  from  the  mine  and  two 
miles  from  the  station,  on  the  Humboldt  River, 
which  has  been  dammed  at  this  point,  are  the 
smelting  furnaces,  where  the  ore  is  reduced  to 
base  bullion.  There  is  also  a  small  stamp  mill 
at  this  point.  The  principal  mines  thus  far 
developed  in  this  district  are  the  Vanderbilt, 
Montezuma  and  Hurricane,  and  the  ore  is  said 
to  average  33  per  cent,  metal, — lead,  antimony 
and  silver.  South  of  the  railroad  first  comes 
the  Sacrament  District,  seven  miles  away.  It  has 
milling  ore  but  the  prospects  are  not  yet  devel- 
oped. Spring  Valley  District  is  next,  12  miles 
distant.  The  ore  is  gold  and  silver,  and  the 
Eagle  Mine  has  a  fifteen-stamp  mill  in  operation 
reducing  the  ore.  Relief  District  follows,  16  miles 
frotn  Oreana.  It  has  milling  ore  and  a  five- 
stamp  mill.  At  the  south  end  of  this  district,  is 
a  very  superior  mine  of  antimony,  the  ores  of 
•which  are  brought  to  this  station  and  shipped  to 
San  Francisco.  Bolivia  District  is  40  miles 
away,  and  abounds  in  copper  ore.  Tidal  Wave 
is  the  name  of  the  principal  mine ;  Kellogg's 
Mine  is  next  in  importance.  Conveyances  to  these 


mining  districts  can  be  obtained  at  Oreana. 
The  region  round  about  the  station  is  occupied 
by  stockmen,  and  large  numbers  of  cattle  and 
horses  are  grazing  upon  the  extensive  ranges  in 
the  vicinity.  No  traveler  will  be  able  to  see 
what  they  live  on,  but  stockmen  claim  that  they 
relish  the  white  sage  which  abounds  here,  and 
that  they  will  grow  fat  upon  it.  The  very  air  is 
heavily  perfumed  with  sage. 

Leaving  Oreana,  we  pass  round  a  curve  where 
the  Humboldt  River  bends  in  toward  the  hills 
on  our  left,  and  soon  cross  the  river  which  makes 
its  way  into  Humboldt  Lake.  After  crossing 
the  river,  the  large  growth  of  sage  brush  and 
greasewood  shows  that  the  soil  in  this  vicinity 
is  very  rich  and  that,  properly  cultivated  and 
well  supplied  with  water,  it  will  produce  im- 
mense crops. 

Lovelock's, —  341  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
with  an  elevation  of  3,977  feet.  It  is  a  side 
track  station  with  a  telegraph  office,  a  store, 
post-office  and  a  few  adjoining  buildings.  The 
Humboldt  River  near  here,  spreads  out  over  con- 
siderable territory — a  fact  which  renders  irri- 
gation comparatively  easy.  It  has  also  caused 
the  formation  of  a  large  body  of  natural  mead- 
ows, from  which  immense  quantities  of  hay  are 
cut  and  shipped  to  different  points  along  the 
line  of  the  road.  It  is  also  a  fine  grazing  region 
and  large  herds  of  cattle  are  fattened  here  upon  the 
rich  native  grasses  and  the  white  sage.  There  are 
three  varieties  of  the  sage  brush  to  be  found  on 
the  plains  and  on  the  deserts.  The  largest  kind 
is  used  as  fuel  for  the  engines  at  several  stamp 
mills ;  white  sage  is  considerably  smaller  and 
affords  grazing  for  both  cattle  and  sheep ;  the 
clover  sage,  still  smaller,  is  not  as  plentiful  as  the 
former  kinds,  but  is  highly  relished  by  sheep. 
Thus  we  have  at  last  found  the  uses  to  which 
this  shrub  is  applied.  Even  greasewood,  when 
it  first  starts  up  in  the  spring,  and  before  it 
hardens,  is  a  favorite  food  with  sheep  and  swine. 

There  is  quite  a  settlement  of  farmers  near 
Lovelock's.  The  station  itself  is  named  after  a 
gentleman  who  lives  near  it,  and  who  is  an  old 
settler  in  this  part  of  the  country.  Farms  are 
being  cleared  of  sage  brush  and  greasewood, 
irrigating  ditches  are  being  dug,  and  the  success 
which  has  hitherto  attended  the  growing  of 
barley  and  potatoes,  induces  quite  a  number  to 
engage  in  the  business,  and  a  black,  rich  soil 
gives  every  promise  of  encouragement.  Before 
the  railroad  came,  the  meadow  or  pasture  lands 
here  were  renowned  among  the  emigrants,  par- 
ties of  whom  recruited  their  stock  after  the 
wearisome  journey  across  the  plains.  Upon 
the  Humboldt  meadows  are  now  grazing 
nearly  400,000  head  of  cattle.  After  leaving 
Rye  Patch,  the  Humboldt  Mountains  ou 
our  left  dwindle  considerably,  and  are  neither 
ragged  nor  formidable  after  reaching  this 
place.  The  same  is  likewise  true  of  the 


213 


Trinity  Range  on  our  right.  They  are  low, 
barren,  tinged  with  reddish  brown ;  the  evi- 
dences of  volcanic  action  become  more  apparent 
as  we  pass,  and  the  broken  lava  of  the  desert, 
the  cinders  and  sconce,  visible  in  places,  speak  of 
the  time  when  the  mountain  ranges  near  here, 
were  seething  volcanoes  and  vomited  forth 
smoke,  flames,  fire  and  lava  with  great  profu- 
sion. Passing  Lovelock's  we  soon  arrive  at  a 
point,  where  a  glimpse  can  be  obtained  of  the 
waters  of  Humboldt  Lake,  just  under  the  mount- 
ain ridge  on  our  left.  We  have  also  passed  by 
the  richer  soil  that  surrounds  the  last  station, 
and  entered  upon  the  barren  desert  again. 

Granite  Point, — 332  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, with  an  elevation  of  3,918  feet.  Approach- 
ing the  sink  in  this  great  basin,  it  will  be  seen 
that  our  elevation  is  decreasing,  but  this  will 
only  last  for  a  short  distance,  and  then  it  will 
be  up  hill  again.  On  the  right  of  the  station, 
which  is  merely  a  side  track,  there  is  a  ragged, 
broken  mountain,  which  undoubtedly  gives  the 
place  its  name.  It  is  the  only  thing  curious  or 
interesting  to  be  seen  from  the  cars.  As  we  leave 
this  place  the  lake  comes  into  full  view — a  beau- 
tiful sheet  of  water  with  white,  salty  incrusta- 
tions all  around  it,  like  a  cloud  fringed  with  a 
silver  border.  The  waters  on  the  shore  nearest 
the  road,  are  said  to  be  far  more  brackish  and 
saline  in  character  than  those  on  the  farther 
side.  The  channel  through  the  lake  is  on  that 
side,  and  probably  the  cause  of  the  difference. 
The  lake  abounds  in  fish  but  they  are  mostly 
in  the  fresh  water  channel,  and  at  the  proper 
season  it  is  a  great  resort  for  pelicans,  wild 
geese  and  ducks.  We  approach  nearer  the  shore 
as  we  pass  to 

Brown's,— 325  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
with  an  elevation  of  3,929  feet.  It  is  a  coaling 
station,  and  engines  sometimes  take  water  from 
the  tank,  pumped  from  the  lake,  though  it  is 
poor  stuff  to  make  steam  with.  Above  the 
nearer  range  of  mountains,  just  across  the  lake, 
can  be  seen  the  tops  of  a  farther  and  higher 
range  in  the  distance.  This  higher  range  runs 
south  of  the  Humboldt  and  Carson  Sink,  and 
looms  into  view  as  the  nearer  range  gives  way. 
Humboldt  Lake  was  not  as  large  formerly  as 
now, — in  fact  it  was  a  simple  widening  of  the 
river  as  it  entered  the  gateway  of  the  sink  be- 
low. At  the  foot  of  the  lake  a  ridge  of  land  ex- 
tends nearly  across  the  valley,  and  there  was  some- 
thing of  a  gorge  through  which  the  outlet  passed. 
The  opportunity  to  build  a  dam  was  thus 
improved,  and  what  was  formerly  a  little  widen- 
ing in  the  river,  has  now  become  a  lake  about 
35  miles  long  and  from  16  to  18  miles  wide  in 
the  widest  places.  It  is  filled  with  islands 
caused  by  this  rise,  and  the  head  or  volume  of 
water  thus  accumulated  serves  to  run  a  stamp 
mill,  located  a  few  miles  below  the  station  and 
under  a  reddish  bluff  across  the  vallev.  Ore  for 


this  mill  has  been  found  in  the  mountains  near  it, 
and  some  is  brought  from  the  range  on  the 
north.  You  will  notice  an  island  nearly  op- 
posite the  station,  and  may  be  interested  to 
know  that  it  was  part  of  the  main  land  before  the 
dam  was  built.  The  mountains  on  each  side  of 
the  track,  now  become  high  hills  though,  occa- 
sionally, a  ragged  peak  is  seen,  to  relieve  the 
moncuony  of  the  journey.  We  pass  over  the 
ridge  of  land  before  spoken  of,  and  fairly  enter 
upou  what  is  the  beginning  of  the  Humboldt 
and  ''Jarson  Sink.  We  pass  down  on  the  low 
alkali  flats  which  are  whitened  with  salt,  and 
which  extend  for  miles  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reacn,  off  to  our  left. 

White  Plains, — 313  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, with  an  elevation  of  3,894  feet — the  lowest 
point  we  reach  in  this  great  basin.  The  place — 
a  side  track,  is  appropriately  named  for  it  is 
surrounded  by  a  white  alkali  desert,  covered  in 
places  with  salt  and  alkali  deposits. 

The  evidences  of  volcanic  action  and  a  lava 
formation  are  everywhere  visible  in  the  hills  and 
on  the  plains  in  this  vicinity.  Though  the  plains 
immediately  adjoining  the  station  are  white  with 
alkali  or  salty  deposits,  yet  the  ridge  and  uplands 
to  the  right  are  covered  with  the  reddish,  porous 
rocks  and  finer  blackish  sand  which  always  ac- 
company this  formation.  At  White  Plains  we 
have  reached  the  lowest  elevation  on  the  Central 
Pacific,  east  of  the  Sierras.  We  are,  in  fact, 
almost  in  the  sink  itself  of  the  Humboldt  and 
Carson  Rivers.  The  low  flats  stretching  away 
to  our  left,  are  usually  more  or  less  covered  with 
water  in  the  season  of  floods,  and  the  two  rivers 
virtually  unite  in  this  great  valley  or  basin. 
There  is  no  visible  outlet  to  these  streams,  or 
rather  to  this  basin,  and  the  immense  drainage 
of  these  two  rivers  sinks  in  the  sand  and  is  taken 
up  by  evaporation.  The  oldest  settlers  in  this 
region  of  country,  hold  to  the  opinion  that  the 
water  is  taken  up  by  evaporation,  and  say  that  at 
certain  seasons  of  the  year  this  process  is  very 
rapid — large  bodies  of  land  covered  with  water 
becoming  thoroughly  dry  in  a  few  days. 

Leaving  White  Plains,  we  again  begin  to  go 
up  a  grade.  We  have  to  cross  a  divide  between 
White  Plains  and  the  Hot  Spring  Valley.  This 
divide  is  reached  at 

Mirage, — 305  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with 
an  elevation  of  4,247  feet.  It  is  simply  a  side 
track  with  no  habitation  near  it  but  a  section- 
house— and  is  near  the  summit  of  the  divide. 
This  place,  like  many  others,  is  named  from  some 
peculiarity  of  location  or  from  some  character- 
istic of  the  country.  The  wonderful  optical  de- 
lusions that  are  apparently  seen  here,  have  given 
it  a  suggestive  name.  When  the  conditions  of 
the  atmosphere  are  favorable,  wonderful  visions 
of  lakes,  mountains,  trees,  rivers,  etc.,  can  be  seen. 
It  is  reported  that  many  a  weary  emigrant  in  the 
days  of  old,  was  deceived  by  the  optical  illusions 


214 


that  here  seemed  so  real,  and  wondered  why  he 
did  not  reach  the  cooling  lakes  and  spreading 
shade  that  seemed  so  near  and  was  yet  so  far 
away.  The  heat  of  summer  during  the  day 
time  on  these  plains  is  almost  intolerable.  The 
dust,  sometimes  blowing  in  clouds,  is  suffo- 
cating, and  long  distances  add  to  the  incon- 
venience of  wagon  travel,  without  water.  But 
overland  travelers  on .  the  trains  have  more 
comforts.  No  matter  how  oppressive  the  day, 
yet  the  moment  the  sun  is  set,  a  lovely  cool 
breeze  comes  from  the  mountains,  the  air  be- 
comes fresh,  and  sleep  is  delightful.  The 
heat  and  dust  of  the  day  is  soon  forgotten 
in  the  comforts  of  the  pure,  cool  night  at- 
mosphere. Crossing  a  low  divide,  the  end  of 
the  Antelope  Range  we  reach 

Hot  Springs, — 346  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, with  an  elevation  of  4,072  feet.  This  is  a  tel- 
egraph station  with  side  track,  section-houses,  etc. 
Great  efforts  have  been  made  here  to  sink  arte- 
sian wells  in  order  to  obtain  fresh  water  for  the 
use  of  the  road.  First  a  depth  of  800  feet  was 
reached,  then  1,000  feet,  and  lastly  1,300  feet, 
but  all  without  success.  In  some  portions  of 
work  very  rapid  progress  would  be  made — 95 
feet  having  been  made  in  one  day — then  some 
\ard,  flinty  rock  would  be  struck,  and  progress 
2  less  than  one  foot  per  dav  would  be  the  result. 
'A!he  project  had  to  be  abandoned  at  last. 

The  station  is  in  the  midst  of  a  desert,  and  is 
iiamed  from  the  Hot  Springs,  whose  rising  steam 
can  readily  be  seen  about  half  a  mile  from  the 
track  on  the  left.  There  are  quite  a  number  of 
them  boiling  hot.  They  formerly  extended 
along  the  base  of  the  hill,  still  farther  to  the  left, 
and  nearer  the  track,  but  while  they  seem  to 
have  dried  up  in  one  locality,  they  have  broken 
out  in  another.  These  springs  are  now  owned 
by  a  German  company,  who  have  a  dwelling- 
house,  and  works  for  producing  borax,  erected 
near  by.  They  were  badly  "  sold  "  by  sharpers 
who  induced  them  to  believe  that  borax,  in 
large  quantities,  could  be  obtained  here.  They 
sent  out  an  expert  who  was  induced  to  make 
a  favorable  report  to  the  effect  that  there  were 
inexhaustible  quantities  of  the  mineral  to  be 
found  near  here.  As  a  consequence,  they  in- 
vested large  sums  of  money  in  the  purchase  of 
the  mines  and  in  the  erection  of  works.  We 
believe  some  60  boxes  of  the  manufactured  arti- 
cle was  all  that  was  ever  turned  out,  and  then 
the  mine  suddenly  gave  out,  the  production 
ceased,  of  course,  and  the  company,  after  an  ex- 
penditure estimated  at  about  a  quarter  million  of 
dollars,  ceased  operations,  their  property  re- 
maining idle.  These  springs  are  said  to  be 
a  sovereign  remedy  for  rheumatism  and  kin- 
dred diseases,  and  the  property  may  yet  be 
utilized  as  an  infirmary  or  watering-place 
for  invalids.  The  steam  from  these  springs 
can  be  seen  for  quite  a  distance  in  the 


cool  mornings  of  the  winter,  and  in  the  spring 
and  fall  months.  Looking  off  to  the  right,  as 
far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  almost,  is  a  valley  com- 
ing in  from  the  north-east — a  dreary  waste  of 
sage  brush  and  alkali,  which  extends  across  the 
track,  over  low  hills,  to  the  sink  of  the  Carson. 
We  move  out  through  a  gap  in  the  hills,  and  in 
about  two  miles  come  to  the  salt  works.  Build- 
ings have  been  erected,  side  track  put  in,  and 
large  platforms  built  where  the  salt  is  stored  pre- 
paratory to  shipping.  The  whole  face  of  the 
country,  in  this  vicinity,  is  nearly  white,  the  saline 
water  rising  to  the  surface  and  evaporating,  leaves 
the  white  incrustations  to  glisten  in  the  sun.  The 
salt  obtained  here  is  produced  by  solar  evapora- 
tion, and  is  said  to  be  nearly  99  per  cent.  pure. 
Formerly  vats  were  tried,  but  they  were  found  to 
be  useless  and  unnecessary.  Vats  are  now  dug  in 
the  ground  and  the  salt  water  pumped  into  them. 
It  soon  evaporates,  and  after  a  sufficient  quantity 
has  accumulated,  it  is  shoveled  out,  drawn  to  the 
station,  ground  and  sacked,  when  it  is  ready  for 
the  market.  We  are  now  passing  over  one  of  the 
most  uninviting  portions  of  the  desert.  The 
range  of  mountains  directly  in  front  are  those 
through  which  the  Truckee  River  comes,  and  the 
valley,  both  north  and  south,  extends  beyond  our 
vision.  Away  off  to  the  left  we  can  see  the 
mountains  south  of  the  Carson  Sink  and  River. 
The  aspect  of  the  desert  becomes  more  dreary  as 
we  approach 

Desert, — 287  miles  from  San  Francisco ;  ele- 
vation, 4,018  feet.  It  is  only  a  side  track,  rightly 
named,  and  passenger  trains  seldom  stop.  The 
winds  that  sweep  the  barren  plains  here  heap  the 
sand  around  the  scattering  sage  brush  like  huge 
potato  hills.  Now  we  turn  toward  the  right 
approaching  the  base  of  the  adjoining  hills,  while 
boulders  of  lava,  large  and  small,  greet  the  eye. 
The  hill  on  our  right,  dwindles  into  the  plain; 
we  round  it,  toward  the  right,  and  arrive  at 

Ttvo-Mile, —  281  miles  from  San  Francisco; 
elevation, 4, 156  feet.  The  gap,  in  the  mountain 
range  in  front,  now  opens  and  we  see  -where  the 
Truckee  River  comes  tumbling  down.  The 
valley  extends,  on  the  right,  till  it  is  lost  in  Pyra- 
mid Lake.  We  pass  rapidly  on,  and  in  a  short 
distance  pitch  down  a  steep  grade  into  the  valley 
of  the  Truckee,  where  green  grass,  green  trees 
and  flowing  water,  God's  best  gift  to  man,  again 
greet  our  vision. 

Wadsworth, — 279  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco; elevation,  4,077  feet.  It  is  a  little  vil- 
lage of  about  400  inhabitants,  nestled  down  in 
the  valley  of  the  Truckee  and  overshadowed  by 
the  range  of  mountains  beyond.  The  railroad 
has  a  twenty-stall  roundhouse,  65  feet  deep,  with 
over  500  feet  of  circular  length.  The  machine 
shop  has  six  working  stalls  where  engines  are 
repaired,  and  is  75  by  130  feet.  Engines  are 
here  entirely  rebuilt.  At  one  end  of  this  shop  a 
piece  of  ground  has  been  fenced  in,  a  fountain 


215 


erected,  trees  planted,  and  alfalfa  and  blue-grass 
sown.  It  affords  a  refreshing  sight  to  the  me- 
chanics here  employed,  and  strangely  contrasts 
•with  the  barren  desert  surrounding  .the  place. 
The  engines  used  on  that  part  of  the  division 
between  Winnemucca  and  this  place,  have  very 
large  tenders,  the  tanks  in  them  holding  3,800 
gallons  of  water.  They  run  70  miles  without 
taking  water  on  the  line  of  the  road.  Other 
shops  for  the  convenience  of  the  road  are  located 
near  by.  The  huge  water  tank  in  which  water  is 
stored  for  use  of  shops  and  engines,  has  a  capacity 
of  60,000  gallons.  Hydrants  have  been  erected, 
connected  with  it  by  pipes,  and  hose  supplied  by 
•which  the  water  may  be  quickly  applied  in  case 
of  fire,  to  any  part  of  the  buildings.  The  road 
passes  from  Wadsworth  to  Sacramento  through 
a  mountainous  region  of  country,  where  there  is 
plenty  of  timber  and,  hence,  wood  is  used  for 
fuel  on  the  engines  between  these  two  places. 
Between  Ogden  and  this  place  coal  taken  from 
the  mines  north  of  Evanston,  on  the  Union 
Pacific  Road,  is  used.  West  of  Sacramento,  coal 
irom  Oregon  and  Washington  Territory  is  used. 
Between  Wadsworth  and  Truckee  some  trouble 
has  been  experienced  with  snow,  and  in  some 
places  huge  boulders,  which  rolled  down  with 
the  snow,  have  been  knocked  out  of  the 
way  by  the  snowplows.  In  addition  to  the 
machine  shops,  there  are  a  large  freight  building 
and  other  offices  for  the  convenience  of  the 
company.  The  town  has  several  large  stores, 
hotels,  saloons,  with  China  houses  ad  libitum, 
and  is  altogether  a  place  of  considerable 
trade.  Huge  freight  wagons,  from  two  to  four 
attached  together,  are  here  loaded  with  freight 
for  the  mining  districts  south.  These  large 
wagons,  with  their  teams  attached,  are  quite  a 
curiosity  to  Eastern  travelers,  and  fully  illus- 
trate how  Western  men  do  their  freighting. 

The  following  mining  districts  did  business  at 
this  station  until  the  extension  of  the  Carson  and 
Colorado  Railroad  from  the  Mound  House,  south, 
to  wit:  Columbus,  borax  mines,  130  miles  dis- 
tant; Teal's  Marsh,  borax  mines,  140  miles 
away;  the  Pacific  Borax  Works  are  20  miles 
southeast  of  Columbus  still;  the  Bellville  Min- 
ing District,  140  miles  distant.  In  this  district 
the  celebrated  Northern  Bell  Silver  Mine  is 
located,  also  the  General  Thomas  and  others  less 
prominent.  Silver  Peak  Mining  District  is  110 
miles  distant.  These  districts,  and  others  not 
named  here,  are  all  south  of  Wadsworth,  and 
from  this  point  1,272,380  pounds  of  crude 
borax  were  shipped  in  1880.  Rhodes'  Salt 
Marsh,  an  immense  salt  deposit,  is  about  130 
miles  distant.  There  is  salt  enough  in  this  de- 
posit to  preserve  the  world,  if  reports  as  to  its 
extent,  etc.,  prove  true. 

From  Wadsworth  to  Carson  Lake,  south,  the 
distance  is  about  40  miles.  This  lake  is  named 
from  the  river  of  the  same  name,  which  flows 


into,  or  rather  through  it.  Directly  south  of 
Carson  Lake  is  Walker  Lake,  into  which  flows 
Walker  River.  The  lake  last  named  has  no 
visible  outlet,  and  is  one  of  the  sinks  of  the 
great  basin  east  of  the  Sierras.  South  of  the 
railroad,  there  are  three  bodies  of  water  which 
travelers  will  more  fully  understand  by  an  ex- 
planation. Humboldt  Lake  proper,  into  which 
flows  the  Humboldt  River,  we  pass  at  Brown's 
Station.  A  little  southwest  of  this  lake  is  the 
Humboldt  and  Carson  Sink — the  waters  from 
the  lake  creeping  through  a  channel  or  slough 
into  the  sink.  The  dam  at  the  foot  of  the  lake 
is  across  this  outlet  or  slough.  The  waters 
from  Carson  Lake,  flowing  nearly  east,  find 
their  way  into  this  sink  through  a  similar  out- 
let. Thus  the  waters  of  the  two  rivers,  the 
Humboldt  and  Carson,  each  flowing  through  a 
small  lake,  finally  meet  in  the  same  sink.  To 
this  sink  there  is  no  visible  outlet,  and  the  vast 
amount  of  water  which  is  poured  into  this 
basin  through  these  two  rivers  is  undoubtedly 
taken  up  on  its  way,  or  after  its  arrival  in  this 
common  sink,  by  evaporation. 

The  Humboldt  River,  though  it  has  a  length 
of  500  miles,  and  has  several  tributaries  con- 
stantly flowing  into  it,  yet  does  not  increase  in 
volume  throughout  its  length,  as  do  most 
rivers.  After  passing  Winnemucca  it  dimin- 
ishes to  a  small  stream,  finally  spreads  into  a 
marsh  and  "sinks "  out  of  sight. 

North  of  Wadsworth,  about  21  miles,  is  Pyr- 
amid Lake,  and  east  of  it,  separated  by  Lake 
Range  of  Mountains,  which  can  plainly  be  seen 
from  Wadsworth,  is  Winnemucca  Lake,  26 
miles  distant.  Both  of  them  are  sinks,  and 
have  no  visible  outlet.  Both  of  them  receive 
the  waters  of  Truckee  River,  and  the  latter  is 
said  to  be  rising — being  several  feet  higher  now 
than  it  was  ten  years  ago. 

Curiosities  of  Pyramid  Lake— In  1S67 
a  surveying  party  visited  this  lake,  whicfi  tney 
found  to  be  12  miles  long  and  30  miles  wide. 
The  lake  takes  its  name  from  a  remarkable  rock 
formation,  a  pyramid  which  towers  above  the 
lake  to  a  height  of  more  than  500  feet,  and  pre- 
sents in  its  outlines  the  most  perfect  form.  Upon 
visiting  this  pyramid,  the  party  found  it  occupied 
with  tenants  who  were  capable  of  holding  their 
ground  against  all  intruders. 

From  every  crevice  there  seemed  to  come  a  hiss. 
The  rattling,  too,  was  sharp  and  long-continued. 
The  whole  rock  was  alive  with  rattlesnakes. 
Even  in  the  party  those  who  had  been  champion 
snake  exterminators,  and  had  demolished  them 
on  all  previous  occasions,  now  found  the  combat 
beyond  their  power  to  carry  on,  and  abandoned 
the  island  with  all  hope  of  victory. 

The  water  of  Pyramid  Lake  is  clear,  sparkling. 
In  it  are  said  to  be  fish,  principally  among  which 
is  the  couier,  very  sprightly,  with  flesh  the  color 
of  salmon.  The  weight  of  the  fish  ranges  from. 


216 


three  to  twenty  pounds.     There  is  also  said  to 
be  an  abundance  of  trout. 

Winnemucca  Lake  is  also  stated  to  be  some 
200  feet  lower  than  Pyramid  Lake,  its  basin 
being  on  the  east  side  of  Lake  Bange  of  Moun- 
tains. The  Truckee  Biver  and  these  two  lakes 
are  great  resorts  for  ducks,  geese  and  pelicans. 
The  latter  abound  here  in  large  numbers  in  the 
spring.  An  island  in  Pyramid  Lake  is  a  great 
resort  for  them,  and  there,  undisturbed,  they 
rear  their  young.  These  birds  are  very  destruc- 
tive to  the  fish  of  the  river  and  lake,  They  will 


because  unable  to  get  out  of  the  way.  A  mai 
with  a  club  could  kill  thousands  of  them  in  i 
day  without  much  difficulty. 

North  of  Pyramid  Lake  is  Mud  Lake,  anothe: 
sink  of  this  great  basin,  and  a  little  northeast  o 
Winnemucca  Lake  is  the  sink  of  Quin's  Bive: 
and  other  streams.  In  fact,  they  lose  thei 
identity  in  flowing  across  the  desert — are  swal 
lowed  up  by  the  thirsty  sands. 

On  the  north,  Pyramid  Lake  Mining  Distric 
is  fifteen  miles  away.  This  is  a  new  district 
and  said  to  contain  good  "prospects."  Muc 


PYRAMID  LAKE. 


stand  in  the  shallow  water  of  the  entrance  to 
the  lake  for  hours,  and  scoop  up  any  unwary 
fish  that  may  happen  to  pass  within  their  reach. 
They  are  apparently  harmless,  and  of  no  earthly 
use  whatever.  "  The  huge  sacks  on  their  under 
jaws  are  used  to  carry  food  and  water  to  their 
young.  These  waddle  around  before  they  fly — 
a  shapeless,  uncouth  mass,  and  easily  destroyed 


Lake  District,  similar  in  character,  is  seventy- 
five  miles  due  north  from  Wadsworth.  Black 
Butte  District,  on  the  east  side  of  Winnemucca 
Lake,  is  about  twenty-eight  miles  distant. 

The  Piute  reservation,  or  rather  one  of  them, 
begins  about  seven  miles  north  of  the  town. 
The  reservation  house,  which  is  supposed  to  bt 
the  place  where  the  government  officers  reside,  is 


SCENES  ON  THE  TRUCKEE  RIVER.— BY  THOMAS  MORAJT. 

1.— Truckpe  Meadows,  Sierras  in  the  distance.    2.— Pleasant  Valley.    3.— Truckee  River,  near  State  Line. 

4.— Red  Bluff,  Truckee  River.    5.— Bridge  at  Eagle  Gao.    6.— Trucke*  River  Rapids. 


218 


16  miles  away.  There  is  another  reservation  for 
these  Indians  south,  on  Walker  River.  They 
have  some  very  good  land  near  the  lake,  and 
some  of  them  cultivate  the  soil, — raising  good 
crops. 

There  is  considerable  good  bottom-land  on  the 
Truckee  River,  between  Wadsworth  and  Pyra- 
mid Lake.  That  which  is  not  included  in  the 
Indian  reservation  is  occupied  by  stockmen  and 
farmers,  much  of  it  being  cultivated  and  pro- 
ducing excellent  crops  of  cereals  and  vegetables. 
The  experiments  thus  far  tried  in  fruit  growing 
have  been  successful,  and  in  a  few  years  there 
•will  be  a  home  supply  of  fruit  equal  to  home 
demand. 

The  arrival  at  Wadsworth  is  a  great  relief  to 
the  tourist  weary  with  the  dull,  unchanging 
monotony  of  the  plains,  the  desert  and  bleak 
desolation  which  he  has  passed.  The  scenes  are 
now  to  change  and  another  miniature  world 
is  to  open  upon  his  view.  There  is  to  be 
variety — beauty,  grandeur  and  sublimity.  If 
he  enters  this  place  at  night,  the  following  day 
will  reveal  to  him  the  green  fields  and  magnifi- 
cent landscapes  of  California,  and  in  less  than 
24  hours,  he  will  be  able  to  feast  his  greedy  eyes 
upon  a  glowing  sunset  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 

Leaving  Wadsworth  we  cross  the  Truckee 
River  and  gaze  with  delight  upon  the  trees,  the 
green  meadows,  the  comfortable  farm-house,  and 
well-tilled  fields  of  the  ranche  on  our  left,  just 
across  the  bridge.  Like  everything  else  lovely 
in  this  world,  it  soon  fades  from  our  vision,  as 
•we  rapidly  pass  into  the  Truckee  Canon.  The 
mountains  now  come  down  on  either  side  as 
though  they  would  shake  hands  across  the  silver 
torrent  that  divides  them.  The  valley  narrows 
as  if  to  hasten  their  cordial  grasp,  and  to  remove 
all  obstacles  in  their  way.  Now  it  widens  a 
little  as  though  it  was  not  exactly  certain 
•whether  these  mountains  should  come  together 
or  not,  and  wanted  to  consider  the  matter.  But 
leaving  this  question  to  the  more  practical 
thoughts  of  our  readers,  we  hasten  on,  winding 
around  promontories  and  in  and  out  of  "  draws  " 
and  ravines,  through  rocky  cuts,  and  over  high 
embankments  with  the  river  rolling  and  tumbling 
almost  beneath  our  feet,  and  the  ragged  peaks 
towering  high  above  us,  passing 

Salvia, — a  simple  side  track,  six  miles  from 
Wadsworth.  Now  we  have  something  to  occupy 
our  attention ;  there  are  new  scenes  passing  by 
at  every  length  of  the  car,  and  we  have  to  look 
sharp  and  quick,  or  many  of  them  will  be  lost 
forever.  Soon  we  make  a  short  turn  to  the  right, 
and  what  the  railroad  men  call  "  Red  Rock  "  ap- 
pears in  front,  then  to  our  right,  and  finally  over 
our  heads.  It  is  a  huge  mountain  of  lava  that 
has,  sometime,  in  the  ages  of  the  past,  been 
vomited  from  the  crater  of  some  volcano  now 
extinct ;  or  it  may  have  been  thrown  up  by  some 
mighty  convulsion  of  nature  that  fairly  shook 


the  rock-ribbed  earth  till  it  trembled  like  an  as- 
pen leaf,  and  in  which  these  huge  mountain  piles 
were  thrown  into  their  present  position.  Pres- 
ently, amidst  the  grandeur  of  these  mountains, 
a  lovely  valley  bursts  upon  our  view.  We  have 
arrived  at  the  little  meadows  of  the  Truckee,  at 
a  station  called 

Clark's, — 264  miles  from  San  Francisco,  with 
an  elevation  of  4,263  feet.  This  station  is  named 
from  a  former  proprietor  of  the  ranche  here.  It 
is  a  beautiful  place  with  mountains  all  around  it, 
and  the  only  way  you  can  see  out,  is  to  look  up 
toward  the  heavens.  The  narrow  bottom  on 
either  side  of  the  river  is  fenced  in,  producing 
excellent  crops  of  vegetables  and  hay,  and  afford- 
ing excellent  grazing  for  the  stock  that  is  kept 
here.  As  we  arrive  at  this  station,  we  pass 
through  a  cut  of  sand  which  seems  just  ready  to 
become  stratified,  and  which  holds  itself  up  in 
layers,  in  the  sides  of  the  cut.  Occasionally,  as 
we  look  over  the  nearer  peaks  in  front,  we  can 
catch  a  glimpse  of  the  snow-crowned  Sierras  in 
the  distance.  Now  a  creek  comes  in  from  a 
canon  on  our  left,  and  through  this  canon  is  a 
wagon  road  to  Virginia  City,  and  now  a  butte  is 
passed  between  us  and  the  river — the  river  being 
on  our  left  since  we  crossed  it  at  Wadsworth. 
There  are  a  few  ranches  scattered  along  its 
banks  where  vegetables  for  the  10,000  miners  at 
Virginia  City  are  grown.  The  mountains  we 
have  passed  are  full  of  variegated  streaks  of  clay 
or  mineral,  some  white,  some  red,  some  yellow, 
and  some  pale  green.  You  will  notice  them  as 
you  pass 

Vista, — 252  miles  from  San  Francisco;  ele- 
vation, 4,403  feet.  We  are  going  up  hill  again. 
At  this  station  we  .arrive  at  the  Truckee  Mead- 
ows. It  is  like  an  immense  amphitheatre,  and 
the  traveler  rejoices  again  in  the  presence  of 
farm-houses  and  cultivated  fields — in  the  scene 
of  beauty  that  spreads  out  before  him.  Beyond 
the  level  plain,  we  see  in  front  of  us  Peavine 
Mountain  and  at  the  base  of  the  hills  to  the 
farther  side  of  the  valley,  lies  Reno.  To  our  left 
Mt.  Rose  lifts  its  snow-covered  head;  to  the  left 
of  Mt.  Rose  is  Slide  Mountain. 

Curious  Names  Given  Tty  Miners. — 
Placerville  was,  in  1849,  called  Hangtown  because 
it  was  the  first  place  where  any  person  was 
hanged  by  lynch-law. 

Tin  Cup  was  so  named,  because  the  first  miners 
there  found  the  place  so  rich  that  they  measured 
their  gold  in  pint  tin  cups. 

Pine  L'og  is  so  named  because  there  was  once 
a  pine  log  across  the  South  Fork  of  the  Stanis- 
laus River  in  such  a  position  as  to  offer  a  very 
convenient  crossing  to  miners. 

The  following  are  among  the  other  oddities 
which  have,  through  miners'  freaks  and  fancies, 
been  used  to  denote  settlements  and  camps  and 
diggings,  small  or  large: 

Jim  Crow  Canon,  Gridiron  Bar. 


219 


Hen-Roost  Camp, 
Lousy  Ravine, 
Lazy  Man's  Canon, 
Logtown, 
Git-Up-and-Git, 
Gopher  Flat, 
Bob  Ridley  Flat, 
One  Eye, 
Push  Coach  Hill, 
Puppytown, 
Mad  Canon, 
Happy  Vallev, 
Hell's  Delight, 
Devil's  Basin, 
Dead  Wood, 
Gouge  Eye, 
Puke  Ravine, 
Slap-Jack  Bar, 
Bloomer  Hill, 
Grizzly  Flat, 
Rat-Trap  Slide, 


U,ed  Dog, 

Jackass  Gulch, 

Ladies'  Canon, 

Miller's  Defeat, 

Loafer  Hill, 

Rattlesnake  Bar, 

Whisky  Bar, 

Poverty  Hill, 

Greasers'  Camp, 

Christian  Flat, 

Rough  and  Ready, 

Ragtown, 

Sugar-Loaf  Hill, 

Paper  Flat, 

Wild-Cat  Bar, 

Dead  Mule  Canon, 

Wild  Goose  Flat, 

Brandy  Flat, 

Yankee  Doodle, 

Horsetown, 

Petticoat  Slide, 

Chucklehead  Diggings,  Pike  Hill, 

Plug  Head  Gulch,  Port  Wine, 

Ground  Hog's  Glory, 

Bogus  Thunder, 

Last  Chance, 

Greenhorn  Canon, 

Shanghai  Hill, 

Shirt-Tail  Canon, 

Skunk  Gulch, 

Coon  Hollow, 

Poor  Man's  Creek, 

Humbug  Canon, 

Quack  Hill, 

Nigger  Hill, 

Piety  Hill, 

Brandy  Gulch, 

Love-Letter  Camp, 

Blue  Belly  Ravine, 

Shin  bone  Peak, 

Loafer's  Retreat, 

Swellhead  Diggings, 

Poodletown, . 

Gold  Hill, 

Centipede  Hollow, 

Seven-by-Nine  Valley, 

Gospel  Swamp, 

Reno  is  293  miles  from  San  Francisco,  situ- 
ated in  the  Truckee  Meadows,  the  junction  of 
the  Virginia  and  Truckee  Railroad,  the  best 
point  of  departure  for  tourists  going  west  to 
visit  Lake  Tahoe.  The  Meadows,  about  fifteen 
miles  long  and  eight  wide,  are  naturally  cov- 
ered with  sage  brush.  The  numerous  boulders 
which  also  strew  the  meadows,  are  built  into 
fences,  and  alfalfa  seed  sown  after  digging  out 
the  sage  brush,  and  rich  pasturage  results,  on 
which  sheep  thrive.  Eight  or  ten  tons  to  the 
acre  are  cut  in  a  single  season,  and  farms  make 
:  handsome  returns.  The  boulders  are  most 
numerous  along  the  river.  Reno  has  an  altitude 
of  4,507  feet,  and  although  a  railroad  town  only- 


Snow  Point, 
Nary  Red, 
Gas"  Hill, 
Ladies'  Valley, 
Graveyard  Canon, 
Gospel  Gulch, 
Chicken  Thief  Flat, 
Hungry  Camp, 
Mud  Springs, 
Skinflint, 
Pepper-Box  Flat, 
Seventy-Six, 
Hog's  Diggings, 
Liberty  Hill, 
Paradise, 
Sluice  Fork, 
Seven  Up  Ravine, 
Humpback  Slide, 
Coyote  Hill, 
American  Hollow, 
Pancake  Ravine, 
Nutcake  Camp, 
Paint  Pot  Hill. 


a  few  years  old,  is  destined  to  be  the  prominent 
city  of  the  State.  It  was  named  in  honor  of 
the  fallen  hero  of  South  Mountain — has  now 
2,600  people,  and  is  a  county -seat  with  a  $30,000 
court-house,  and  is  the  gate  to  the  West  for  all 
the  State,  and  distributing  point  for  a  large 
portion  of  it.  It  has  outrun  Truckeo  in  com- 
peting for  the  trade  of  California,  east  of  the 
Sierras  and  among  the  beautiful  and  fertile 
valleys  north  of  the  railroad,  for,  from  Novem- 
ber to  May  Truckee  is  shut  in  by  deep  snows, 
and  its  roads  have  steeper  grades. 

Sierra  Valley,  the  Honey  Lake  Region,  Long 
Yalley,  Camp  Bidwell  and  Goose  Lake  Region, 
Surprise  Valley,  Indian  Valley,  Winnemucca 
Valley,  the  Pitt  River  Country,  Fort  Warner 
and  Southeastern  Oregon,  all  derive  their  sup- 
plies, wholly  or  in  part,  on  wagons  from  this 
point.  It  is  the  healthiest  place  in  the  State 
and  has  the  most  stable  population,  being  sur- 
rounded with  an  agricultural  region. 

It  has  five  churches,  Congregational,  Metho- 
dist, Episcopal,  Baptist  and  Catholic,  and  a 
Young  Ladies'  Seminary  under  the  care  of 
Bishop  Whitaker,  6f  the  Protestant  Episcopal 
Church.  This  is  the  most  extensive  and  suc- 
cessful school  of  the  kind  in  the  State.  The 
cost  of  the  enterprise  was  320,000,  of  which 
Miss  Wolfe,  of  New  York  City,  gave  half. 

Nevada,  by  a  State  law,  set  apart  one-fourth 
of  one  per  cent,  of  her  tax  for  a  building  fund, 
out  of  which  the  Capitol  was  erected  at  Carson 
City.  About  $100,000,  since  accumulated,  has 
been  spent  on  a  State  prison,  the  completion  of 
\vhich  is  yet  in  the  future.  The  massive  walls, 
about  400  feet  square,  have  been  standing  for 
several  years. 

Here  are  the  grounds  of  the  State  Agricultu- 
ral Society,  and  the  finest  speed-track  in  the 
State,  two  banks,  two  newspapers — the  Nevada 
btate  journal,  daily  and  weekly,  and  the 
Weekly  Plaindealer — and  several  factories,  a 
steam  fire  department  and  a  public  library. 

The  benevolent  orders  are  well  represented, 
the  Masons  and  Odd  Fellows  meeting  in  halls  of 
their  own.  There  are  two  hotels,  the  Railroad 
House,  which  is  well  kept,  and  the  Lake  House, 
on  the  bank  of  the  Truckee  River,  a  most  de 
sirable  place  for  a  few  days'  stay.  One  daily 
stage  leaves  for  Susan ville,  via  Long  Valley, 
in  the  California  portion  of  the  Sierra  Nevadas, 
and  another  for  Fort  Bidwell  and  Surprise  Val- 
ley, via  Pyramid  Lake. 

The  Pea  Vine  District  is  nine  miles  north- 
west, and  about  1,500  feet  above  Reno,  in  which 
are  valuable  mines  of  dark  sulphuret  ore — the 
basest  work  on  the  coast,  and  worked  success- 
fully only  of  late  by  the  O'Hara  process. 

The  Nevada  and  Oregon  Railroad  Company 
have  organized  to  build  a  narrow  gauge  (3  feet) 
road  from  a  point  at  or  near  Aurora,  Esmeralda 
County,  Nev.,  to  a  point  at  or  near  Goose  Lake 


220 


WINTER  FOREST  SCENE  IN  THE  SIERRA  NEVADAS. 

BY  THOMAS  MORAN. 


221 


in  Oregon,  and  have  commenced  building  from 
Eeno  in  the  direction  of  Oregon.  This  road 
-will  run  through  a  part  of  Long  Valley,  and 
take  the  freight  that  is  now  carried  on  wagons 
to  Northeastern  California  and  Southern  Oregon. 
George  L.  Woods  is  President;  George  A. 
King,  Vice-President,  and  S.  C.  Scoville,  Sec- 
retary. The  general  offices  are  all  at  Eeno. 

VIRGINIA  AND  TRUCKEE  R.  R. 

D.  O.  MILLS,  President  -  -  San  Francisco. 
H.  M.  YEKBINGTON,  V.-Pr.  &G.  Supt.  Carson. 
W.  M.  THOKNTON,  Secretary  -  -  Carson. 
D.  A.  BENDEB,  Gen.  Fr.  &  Pas.  Agt.  -  Carson. 

Leaving  Reno,  the  Red  Mountain  District  is 
seen  on  the  east,  and  the  Washoe  Range  with 
Mount  Rose,  8,200  feet  high,  on  the  west,  and 
soon  the  cars  pass  a  flume,  15  miles  long,  owned 
by  Flood  &  O'Brien,  running  through  a  long 
canon  to  Evans  Creek  to  convey  lumber  to 
the  railroad.  Huffaker's  is  six  and  one-half 
miles  from  Reno,  the  terminus  of  the  Pacific 
Wood,  Lumber  and  Flume  Company's  flume. 
The  next  stopping  point  is  called 

Brown's, — and  is  the  terminus  of  the  Eldo- 
rado Flume,  owned  by  the  Virginia  &  Truckee 
Railroad  Company.  This  flume  starts  in  White's 
Canon,  and  is  about  six  miles  long.  The  first 
important  station  is 

Steamboat  Springs, — 11  miles  south  of 
Reno.  They  consist  of  many  springs  in  two  dis- 
tinct groups,  those  of  each  group  apparently  con- 
nected with  each  other.  Their  escaping  steam 
may  be  seen  near  the  station  on  the  rise  to  the 
right  of  the  road,  and  the  fissures,  through  which 
the  water  of  212°  Fahrenheit  gurgles  up,  vary 
from  a  narrow  crack  to  a  foot  in  width.  For- 
merly they  were  more  active  than  now,  yet  at 
times  they  spout  the  water  to  a  height  of  ten  feet. 
Sulphur  abounds  in  the  water,  and  remarkable 
cures  of  rheumatism  and  cutaneous  diseases  have 
been  effected,  but  no  reliable  analysis  of  the 
water  has  been  made. 

The  hotel  is  a  popular  resort,  kept  in  first- 
class  style  with  accommodations  for  fifty  guests. 

Steamboat  Springs  are  fast  becoming  famous 
for  mines  of  cinnabar  and  sulphur,  of  both  of 
which  this  region  seems  to  be  full.  Much  of  the 
sulphur  is  pure  and  beautifully  crystallized.  Cin- 
nabar is  found  between  strata  of  lava. 

The  railroad  crosses  Steamboat  Creek,  the  out- 
let for  Washoe  Lake,  and  then  enters  Steamboat 
Valley,  which  contains  about  6,000  acres  of  good 
soil  with  some  natural  meadow  at  the  upper 
end. 

South  of  Steamboat  Valley  is  Washoe  Valley, 
which  is  entered  by  passing  through  a  narrow 
gorge  with  large  conglomerate  rocks,  weather- 
beaten  into  castellated  form.  Emerging  from 
the  canon,  one  is  in 

fVashoc  City, — 5  3-4  miles  from  Steamboat ; 
it  has  a  few  dilapidated  houses.  Mount  Rose, 


over  8,000  feet  high,  eternally  snow-capped,  is 
directly  opposite  the  lower  end  of  the  valley. 

On  the  left  of  the  track  may  be  seen  the  ruins 
of  the  old  Ophir  Mill — whose  Superintendent 
was  honored  with  a  salary  of  830,000  per  an- 
num and  a  furnished  house,  while  the  mill 
employed  165  men. 

On  'the  left,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains 
overlooking  the  beautiful  lake  and  valley,  is 
Bower's  Mansion — the  favorite  resort  for  picnics 
from  Carson  and  Virginia  City. 

Franktown — 4^  miles  from  Washoe,  is  an 
old  Mormon  colony,  the  terminus  of  another 
flume,  and  was  the  first  place  settled  in  this  reg- 
ularly formed  and  picturesque  valley,  twelve 
miles  long  by  seven  wide.  The  long  promonto- 
ries from  the  mountain  side  are  denuded  of 
timber,  but  numerous  ice-cold  crystal  streams 
come  down  from  the  mountain  side,  and  the 
valley  produces  considerable  grain  and  fruit,  and 
supports  no  little  stock. 

Mill  Station — 3  miles  from  Franktown,  is 
an  old  mill  site  at  the  upper  end  of  the  valley, 
from  which  Washoe  Lake,  ten  miles  long  and 
six  wide,  may  be  clearly  seen.  Here  is  the 
end  of  still  another  flume  for  lumber  and 
wood;  next  is  Eagle  Valley,  reached  by  a  short 
tunnel. 

At  the  divide  between  Washoe  and  Eagle 
Valleys,  the  railroad  crosses  the  Water  Syphon, 
which  conducts  the  pure  water  from  the  west 
side  of  the  Sierras  through  this  great  depression 
toward  Virginia  City,  Gold  Hill  and  Silver  City. 
One  million  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand 
pounds  of  rolled  iron  are  found  in  nearly  seven 
miles  of  pipe.  Each  joint  of  pipe,  twenty-six 
feet  long,  when  at  a  temperature  of  380  degrees 
Fahrenheit,  was  dipped  into  asphaltum  and 
coal  tar.  A  million  rivets  and  52,000  pounds 
lead  were  used  in  constructing  the  syphon. 
The  water  is  taken  from  Ball's  Creek,  in  an  18- 
inch  flume,  four  miles  long,  then  received  by 
the  iron  pipe  at  a  point  2,100  feet  above  the 
railroad.  It  ascends  on  the  east  side  1,540  feet, 
and  is  discharged  into  a  flume  that  conducts  it 
to  the  reservoir  above  the  cities  in  which  it  is 
used.  Through  the  12-inch  orifice  of  the  pipe, 
2,000,000  gallons  can  pass  daily.  The  whole 
cost  was  $750,000,  and  the  enterprise  is  an 
achievement  of  which  the  whole  State  is  proud. 

Lake  View — 2  miles  from  Mill  Station, 
commanding  the  finest  view  of  Washoe  Lake, 
the  railroad  crosses  the  large  water  pipe  which 
supplies  Virginia  City  from  a  lake  on  the  west- 
ern summit  of  the  Sierras,  above  Lake  Tahoe. 
Washoe  and  Eagle  Valleys  almost  join,  and  on 
entering  the  latter,  Carson  City  and  the  State 
Capitol  are  seen  below. 

Carson  City  is  21  miles  from  Virginia 
City.  It  was  settled  in  1858,  by  Major  Ornsby 
an/1  others,  has  a  population  of  4,000,  is  regu- 
laiiy  laid  out,  the  streets  coinciding  with  the 


222 


cardinal  points  of  the  compass.  Shade  trees, 
the  U.  S.  Mint,  the  Capitol,  Court-house,  and 
some  neat  private  residences,  four  churches 
(Presbyterian,  Methodist,  Episcopalian  and  Cath- 
olic), the  best  school-house  in  the  State,  and  good 
society,  make  it  one  of  the  most  desirable  places 
for  residence  in  Nevada.  It  has  two  daily  papers, 
th3  Appeal  and  Tribune.  It  is  the  center  of  a 
large  trade  for  all  parts  of  South-western  Nevada 
and  Mono  and  Inyo  Counties  of  California. 

It  has  three  good  hotels,  the  general  offices  and 
workshops  of  the  Virginia  &  Truckee  Railroad. 

The  railroad  from  Carson  City  to  Virginia 
City,  is  often  spoken  of  as  the  Crooked  Railroad, 
so  full  is  it  of  curves  and  windings.  There  are 
many  curves  on  it  of  14°,  and  one  of  Id*,  and  on 
one  portion  of  it  for  16  miles,  there  is  a  contin- 
uous grade  of  90  feet  to  the  mile.  This  is  believed 
to  be  the  road  of  wbicsx  it  is  said  that  an  en- 
gineer, badly  frightensv>  at  the  approach  of  a 
red  light,  jumped  from  his  engine  and  soon  saw 
that  he  had  been  scared  by  the  rear  end  of  his 
own  train.  It  is  fifty-one  and  three-quarter  miles 
long,  and  has  35  miles  of  side  track.  Forty  to 
fifty  trains  daily  pass  over  it,  and  it  is  probably 
the  best  paying  railroad  in  the  country. 

Stages  leave  Carson  for  points  in  Southern 
Nevada  and  into  California  as  follows :  To 
Monitor,  46  miles ;  Silver  Mountain,  54  miles  ; 
Bixli<>p's  Creek;  192  miles  ;  Benton,  150  miles ; 
Su'eetwfiter,  73  miles ;  A  urora,  105  miles  ;  Bodie, 
119  miles ;  Mariette,  145  miles ;  Belleville,  155 
miles  ;  Candelnria,  165  miles  ;  Columbus,  173 
miles ;  Silver  Peak,  228  miles  ;  Independence,  234 
miles  ;  Lone  Pine,  252  miles  ;  Cerro  Gordo,  274 
miles.  The  usual  fare  is  15  cents  per  mile.  For 
Lake  Tahoe,  Bentou  stage  line  runs  to  Glen- 
brook,  and  there  connects  with  steamer  across 
lake,  and  stages  thence  to  Truckee  and  Summit. 

The  Sutro  Tunnel,  one  of  the  mining  wonders 
of  Nevada,  commences  on  the  Carson  River, 
not  far  distant,  and  bores  into  the  mountains  a 
passage  fourteen  feet  wide  and  ten  feet  high. 
The  main  tunnel  is  completed  20,000  feet, 
reaching  directly  to  the  mines  at  Virginia  City, 
and  affording  not  only  a  perfect  outlet  for  the 
water  of  the  mines,  but  giving  excellent  ventila- 
tion and  a  cheap  way  of  removing  the  ore. 
Probably  the  greatest  venture  in  risks  of  any 
enterprise  in  the  world,  just  opened  for  use. 

Several  stations  beyond  Carson  attract  atten- 
tion, principally  because  of  quartz  mills  con- 
nected. Lookout,  2%  miles;  hmjire,  1%  miles; 
at  Morgan  is  the  Morgan  Mill;  at  Brunswick 
and  Merrim-jck  are  others.  The  road  ascends 
above  the  river  gradually,  and  just  beyond 
Eureka  is  seen  the  first  view  of  Mouut  Davidson. 

Mound  House  is  1^  miles  from  the  Eureka 
Dump.  Along  here  the  road  is  without  curves 
for  a  few  hundred  feet — a  long  distance  for  such 
a  crooked  road  as  this.  Mound  House  is  the 
junction  of  this  railroad  with  the 


CARSON  AND  COLORADO  R.  R. 

The  officers  of  this  are  the  same  as  those  of 
the  Virginia  and  Truckee  Road.  The  line  is  a 
3-foot  narrow-gauge,  laid  with  steel  rails  and 
red-wood  ties,  and  equipped  with  first-class 
rolling  stock.  The  route  is  lonely,  yet  interest- 
ing. It  descends  to  the  Carson  River,  crossing 
at  Dayton,  a  small  town  six  miles  from  the 
Mound  House,  the  location  of  several  ore-re- 
duction works,  and  three  miles  from  the  mouth 
of  the  great  Sutro  Tunnel.  From  Dayton  the 
line  follows  the  Carson  River  to  Churchill 
Canon,  and  then  follows  Mason  Valley,  through 
which  Walker  River  flows;  in  which  valley,  at 
the  time  of  undertaking  the  road,  a  few  widely 
scattered  ranches  were  the  only  signs  of  civil- 
ization for  150  miles.  Excepting  this  valley, 
which  is  for  Nevada  a  large  and  productive 
farming  district,  the  road  was  built  through  a 
howling  wilderness  of  sage  brush.  The  river 
is  crossed  twice.  Old  Fort  Churchill  stands 
like  a  lone  sentinel,  to  awaken  recollections  of 
the  army  officers  and  men  who  endured  its 
isolation  and  hardships.  Walker  River  empties 
into  Walker  Lake,  a  truly  magnificent  sheet  of 
water  twenty -five  miles  long,  and  from  five  to 
nine  miles  wide.  The  sight  of  any  body  of 
water  is  good  in  such  a  land  as  this,  and  espe- 
cially such  a  beautiful  lake  as  this.  It  is  usually 
as  smooth  as  a  mirror  and  as  blue  as  the  sky. 
It  stands  a  lovely  contrast  with  its  barren  sur- 
roundings of  desolate  plains  and  dusky  moun- 
tains. Its  waters  are,  however,  more  beautiful 
to  the  eye  than  refreshing  to  the  thirsty  mouth 
— for  they  are  heavily  impregnated  with  soda, 
and  unfit  to  drink.  The  view  of  the  lake  on 
the  left — as  the  train  passes  along  the  south  side 
the  whole  distance  of  the  lake — is  unobstruct- 
ed, because  the  only  trees  on  its  border  are  a 
clump  of  willows  at  the  lake.  But  the  lake 
abounds  with  large  trout.  These  are  caught  in 
great  quantities  by  the  rndians. 

Haivtlwrne — 2^  miles  from  the  lake,  was 
born  of  the  enterprise,  and  for  some  months 
was  the  terminus  of  the  road,  and  an  important 
stage  station.  Hawthorne  is  the  depot  of  sup- 
plies for  ATJKOKA,  twenty -six,  and  BODIE,  the 
famous  mining  camp  in  Mino  Ceunty,  Califor- 
nia, thirty-seven  miles. 

Candelaria — 50  miles  from  Hawthorne  and 
150  from  the  Mound  House,  is  the  present  ter- 
minus, but  the  road  is  pushing  southward  to 
the  Colorado  River. 

Diverging  stage  lines  of  the  United  States 
Stage  Company  leave  daily  on  arrival  of  the 
trains  for  Aurora,  Bodie,  Bellville,  Columbus, 
Belmont,  Silver  Peak,  Montezuma,  Alida  Val- 
lev, Gold  Mountain  (State  Line  Mines),  Benton, 
Bishop  Creek  and  Independence. 

Gold  Hill. — As  the  traveler  approaches,  he 
sees  evidences  of  mining  in  every  direction — 


abandoned  shafts,  puffing  engines,  smoke  issu- 
ing from  gigantic  sticks,  huge  mounds  of  earth 
dumped  from  the  end  of  high  trestle-work,  the 
capacious  buildings  and  the  posts  and  stones  that 
mark  the  undeveloped  claims,  or  the  loaded  ore, 
need  no  explanation  as  to  their  origin  or  pur- 
pose. 

Gold  Hill  follows  the  ravine  of  the  same  name, 
and  the  street  is  both  steep  and  crooked.  It  has 
a  population  of  6,000  and  is,  in  all  respects,  like 
Virginia  City.  The  two  are  built  up  so  as  to  be 
witllout  marked  separation.  Gold  Hill  has  a 
vigorous  daily  paper,  the  "  Gold  Hill  News"  a 
Catholic,  a  Methodist,  and  an  Episcopal  Church. 


a  great  credit  to  the  city  and  the  land  of  sil- 
ver. Its  narrow  streets  show  with  what  diffi- 
culty sites  are  obtained  for  buildings,  whether 
anchored  to  the  rocks  or  perched  in  mid-air,  and, 
while  in  the  city  but  little  of  it  is  visible  at  a 
time,  the  dwellings  are  mostly  low,  and,  there- 
fore, unstable  roofs  do  less  damage  when  the 
Washoe  zephyrs  blow.  It  appears  small,  but  is 
the  most  densely  packed  of  all  American  cities. 
One-third  its  people  are  underground,  where 
lighted  candles  glimmer  faintly  in  subterranean 
passages,  by  day  and  by  night.  Bedrooms  do 
double  duty  for  hundreds  or  thousands,  whose 
work  never  ceases.  Miners  are  thifted  every  eight 


STREET   SCENE   IN  VIRGINIA  CITY,   NEVADA. 


Virginia  City  and  Gold  Hill  are  connected  by  a 
line  of  omnibusses,  making  four  trips  every  hour 
during  the  day,  while  the  frequent  trains  of  the 
railroad  carry  also  many  passengers.  By  rail 
the  distance  to  Virginia  City  is  two  miles,  in 
which  several  tunnels  are  passed  through. 

Virginia  City — is  one  of  the  most  interesting 
town?  on  fhe  coast.  One  expects  streets  of  gold 
and  silver,  and  finds  dust  or  mud.  On  October 
26, 1875,  it  was  almost  wholly  destroyed  by  fire, 
but  the  burnt  district  has  been  rebuilt  more 
handsomely  than  ever.  Its  population  now 
exceeds  20,000.  A  first-class  hotel,  The  In- 
ternational, has  been  erected,  in  all  respects 


hours',  and  the  men  of  two  shifts  may  occupy  the 
same  couch. 

On  many  levels,  down  2,000  feet,  are  thousands 
of  busy,  bustling,  narrow  streets,  over  which  is 
the  city  proper.  Tide-water  is  6,205  feet  below 
the  banks,  and  perhaps  it  is  best  that  it  is  no 
nearer,  for  now  pumps  are  constructed  to  raise 
the  water  to  the  surface  from  3,000  to  5,000  feet 
below,  only  seven  of  which  are  capable  of  raising 
4,000  gallons  every  minute. 

Dwellings  on  the  side-hill  overlook  one  another 
without  any  appearance  of  aristocratic  preten- 
sions, and  steps  and  foot-ladders  are  continually 
at  hand. 


224 


The  streets  present  a  busy  appearance  with 
men  of  all  classes,  and  occasionally  women,  watch- 
ing the  indicator  of  the  San  Francisco  stock- 
market  as  anxiously  as  a  gambler  reduced  to  the 
"  bed  rock  "  watches  for  the  playing  of  the  hand 
against  him. 

Saloons  are  numerous  and  crowded,  and  pro- 
fanity fearfully  prevalent. 

It  is  a  city  of  extremes  in  prices,  speculations, 
character,  activity,  enterprise,  debauchery  and 
home  life.  The  rich  and  the  penniless  are  side 
by  side.  Every  notion  and  ism  is  advocated — 
every  nation  represented  by  the  worst  and  best 
of  the  race — except  the  horrible  Celestial,  who  is 
always  called  bad,  but  is  even  somewhat  like 
"  the  Englishman  of  character  and  the  English- 
man of  no  character  to  speak  of."  The  lazy 
Indians  that  lounge  about  the  street,  rich  with  a 
loaf  of  bread,  a  blanket,  a  string  of  beads  and 
some  feathers,  are  no  poorer  than  hundreds  who 
will  have  nothing  until  they  sober  up,  and  at  the 
other  end  are  the  owners  of  wealth  incomprehen- 
sible by  any  system  of  counting — all  glittering 
and  golden-hued  in  a  vast  firmament  of  riches, 
as  great  as  the  reality  of  idlest  dreams.  Here 
the  world  has  seen,  not  one,  but  at  least  four, 
richer  than  Croesus ;  with  lamps,  rings  and  slaves 
better  than  Aladdin's ;  four  Bonanza  kings,  each 
with  a  mountain  of  treasure  greater  to  carry  than 
the  horrible  Old  Man  of  the  Sea,  but  which  no 
modern  Sinbad  would  shake  off  with  delight. 

One  says,  "  The  gods  here  worshiped  are 
heathen  deities,  Mammon,  Bacchus  and  Venus. 
The  temples  are  brokers'  offices,  whisky  shops, 
gambling  hells  and  brothels.  There  is  wonder- 
ful enterprise,  much  intelligence,  some  refine- 
ment, not  a  little  courtesy,  and  a  sea  of  sin." 

The  view  from  the  city  is  picturesque  and 
sorrowfully  beautiful.  Off  to  the  south  and  east 
the  eye  ranges  over  a  waste  of  sage  brush,  and 
the  face  of  the  whole  country  appears  like  the 
waves  of  an  angered  sea,  broken  the  more  be- 
cause they  can  go  no  farther. 

The  Carson  River  can  be  seen  stretching  off 
toward  its  sinking  place  in  arid  sands,  and  the 
twenty-six  mile  desert  will  deceive  the  unthink- 
ing, and  add  a  faint  lake-like  look  to  the  picture, 
of  which  the  Walker  and  Sweetwater  Ranges  and 
endless  mountains'  rosy  light  and  heaven's  blue 
dome,  all  add  their  beauty. 

But  to  enjoy  the  best  view,  make  the  ascent  of 
Mount  Davidson,  about  1,627  feet  above  the  city, 
and  nearly  8,000  feet  high.  One  need  not  climb, 
but  may  ascend  it  on  horseback  by  following  up 
the  ravine  from  Gold  Canon.  When  he  reaches 
what  seems  from  the  street  to  be  the  top  of  the 
mountain,  he  sees  another  summit  as  far  beyond, 
but  the  latter  gained  the  view  is  magnificent. 

Below,  on  the  west,  is  a  beautiful  lake  two  or 
three  miles  in  diameter,  "  glistening  like  the 
silver  of  the  mountains  which  it  covers."  Reno, 
the  Carson  Valley,  valleys,  mountains,  rivers, 


lakes,  and  deserts  may  be  seen  in  every  direction 
for  a  hundred  miles. 

Or,  if  it  is  too  fatiguing  to  ascend,  whoever  is 
the  fortunate  possessor  of  a  note  of  introduction 
to  some  mining  superintendent,  may  prepare  fo\ 
a  visit  to  the  world  below.  Donning  brogans, 
woolen  socks  and  coarse  flannels,  he  will  step  oij 
the  cage,  holding  his  breath,  his  heart  feeling 
gone,  and  as  the  water  drips  around  him  down 
the  shaft,  his  feeble  lantern  will  not  remove  the 
queer  sensation  of  the  descent.  Once  below, 
there  are  cuts,  and  cross-cuts,  drifts,  winzes, 
stopes  and  a  maze  of  strange  words,  sights  and 
sounds.  Here  is  explained  the  use  of  the 
squared  timbers  seen  by  the  car  load,  passing 
from  the  Sierras  to  Virginia  City.  As  worthless 
rock  or  treasured  ore  is  removed,  the  excavation 
must  be  replaced  almost  as  solid  as  the  rock  it- 
self. The  huge  timbers  are  mortised  and  fitted 
to  each  other  with  the  utmost  precision ;  ladders 
lead  from  level  to  level.  Cars  convey  the  ore  to 
the  shaft,  and  up  and  down  the  busy  cages  are 
always  going.  Every  minute  a  loaded  car  as- 
cends from  a  quarter  of  a  mile  below  and  is  re- 
placed by  another.  The  engineer  tells  by  an 
indicator  the  precise  location  of  the  cage  at  any 
moment,  and  by  varying  the  signals  to  him,  he 
directs  the  movements  for  passengers  with  greatly 
decreased  speed. 

If  time  permits,  ride  over  to  the  Sutro  Tunnel, 
six  miles  from  Virginia  City.  It  once  promised 
well,  may  benefit  the  Comstock  Lode  more  than 
its  friends  have  ever  dreamed,  but  from  present 
appeai'ances  the  real  contest  concerning  it,  was 
not  in  Congress,  nor  opposition  from  the  mines 
it  aims  to  tap,  but  has  yet  to  come.  As  a 
specimen  of  engineering  it  will  repay  a  visit. 
With  indomitable  energy  it  is  pushed  forward, 
and  has  now  penetrated  nearly  three  miles. 
The  average  progress  is  90  feet  per  week,  and 
tunneling  was  never  done  elsewhere,  more  speed- 
ily or  successfully. 

Mines  of  Virginia  City.— The  discovery 
of  the  Comstock  Lode,  was  made  in  1857,  by 
men  in  pursuit  of  gold  placers.  They  came 
upon  some  mineral  new  to  them,  which  a  Mex- 
ican recognized  as  silver  ore.  Comstock  at  an 
early  day,  was  a  middle-man  in  the  purchase  of  an 
interest  in  the  lode,  and  his  name  thus  became 
attached  to  it.  As  explorations  were  made,  very 
rich  ore  was  found  near  the  surface,  and  soon  a 
great  excitement  was  created,  and  vigorous  oper- 
ations commenced,  which  were  crowned  with 
wonderful  success.  The  Ophir  Mine,  and  the 
Gould  &  Curry,  at  an  early  day  began  to  pay 
dividends,  and  continued  to  do  so  without  inter- 
ruption for  several  years.  The  Savage  and  the 
Hale  &  Norcross  were  later  in  becoming 
known,  and  their  period  of  prosperity  continued 
after  the  others  had  gone  into  decline.  These 
are  all  Virginia  City  Mines.  The  Kentuck, 
Crown  Point,  Yellow  Jacket,  Chollar  Potosi, 


225 


and  Belcher,  which  have  all  paid  dividends  and 
others  less  widely  known,  are  in  Gold  Hill. 
Neither  of  them  became  successful  as  early  as 
the  Ophir  and  Gould  &  Curry.  The  original 
discoverers  of  these  mines  "  located  "  them,  as 
miners  say,  that  is,  posted  upon  the  property  a 
notice  of  claim  in  writing,  of  which  they  filed  a 
copy  with  the  recorder  of  the  mining  district. 
The  regulations  in  reference  to  locating  claims 
differed  slightly  in  different  districts.  Usually 
not  over  2,000  feet  along  the  length  of  a  vein 
could  be  located  in  one  claim,  and  no  one  could 
claim  over  200  feet  except  the  discoverer,  he  be- 
ing usually  allowed  300,  and  sometimes  400  feet. 
Under  the  present  United  States  Mining  Law 
no  single  claim  for  over  1,500  feet  can  be  made, 
whatever  number  of  persons  join  in  it,  and  the 
discoverer  is  accorded  no  advantage  over  others. 
Feet  in  length  along  a  vein,  are  always  stated 
and  understood  to  carry  all  its  depth,  spurs  and 
angles,  that  is,  its  whole  breadth  and  depth  be 
they  more  or  less,  for  the  length  claimed.  Veins 
are  usually  only  a  few  feet  wide,  but  sometimes 
extend  miles  in  length.  The  Comstock  Lode 
has  been  traced  for  five  miles,  but  its  greatest 
breadth  so  far  as  yet  known,  is  between  300  and 
400  feet,  and  no  other  silver  vein  in  the  State  of 
Nevada  approaches  it  in  breadth,  and  some  are 
worked  which  do  not  exceed  6  inches.  In  early 
days  dealings  in  mines  were  by  feet,  and  not  by 
shares.  Tha  Ophir  Mine  comprised  1,400  feet 
for  instance,  and  was  sold  on  the  stock-board  by 
the  foot.  An  owner  of  100  feet  owned  a  four- 
teenth of  the  mine.  Gradually  the  selling  by 
feet  was  abandoned,  and  only  shares  were  dealt 
in,  and  those  have  been  divided  up  very  small,  in 
order  to  bring  speculation  within  the  compass  of 
persons  of  small  means.  The  Ophir  Mine  has 
been  divided  so  that  each  original  foot  is  repre- 
sented by  seventy-two  shares.  The  incorpora- 
tions of  all  the 'mining  companies  on  the  Com- 
stock Lode,  and  their  offices  have  always  been  in 
San  Francisco,  and  the  men  who  live  immedi- 
ately over  and  about  the  mine,  cannot  buy  or  sell 
stock  in  them  except  by  letter  or  telegraph  to 
«  The  Bay." 

In  the  development  of  this  mineral  lode,  three 
distinct  periods  may  be  marked.  For  some  time 
after  its  discovery,  prosperity  continually  at- 
tended operations  on  it  somewhere  along  its 
length,  and  often  at  all  points.  All  the  mines 
named  above  paid  dividends,  and  very  few  assess- 
ments were  made.  The  ore  lying  within  800  or 
900  feet  of  the  surface  was  finally  exhausted 
along  the  whole  vein,  and  dividends  fell  off, 
assessments  became  frequent,  and  great  depres- 
sion followed.  This  continued  until  patient 
exploration  revealed,  several  hundred  feet  deeper, 
a  rich  ore  body,  in  the  Crown  Point  and  Belcher 
Mines,  which  produced  an  amount  of  bullion 
hitherto  unexampled  in  the  history  of  the  vein, 
dividends  amounting  to  a  million  a  month  com- 


ing several  months  in  succession.  This  body  of 
ore  was  worked  out  in  time,  and  depression  fol- 
lowed again.  The  total  yield  of  all  the  mines 
of  Nevada  for  the  last  six  years  has  been 
$176.734,150. 

The  Big  Bonanza  Mines. — In  the  days  of 
their  greatness,  the  Consolidated  Virginia 
and  the  California  divided  each  81,080,000 
monthly  for  many  months.  During  1875, 
and  the  first  three  months  of  1876,  the 
bullion  receipts  of  the  Consolidated  Virginia 
company  were  twenty-four  million  eight  hun~ 
dred  and  fifty  thousand,  five  hundred  and  twenty- 
four  dollars  and  eighty-four  cents,  ($24,850,- 
524.84). 

In  March,  1876,  were  worked  24,991,800-2,000 
tons  of  ore,  which  produced  $3,634,218.92. 
The  total  yield  of  the  two  mines  Virginia 
and  California  has  exceeded  ffty  million  dol- 
lars. 

The  bullion  from  this  mine  and  others  on  the 
Comstock  Lode  is  very  pure,  and  on  an  average 
is  about  .045  fine  in  gold,  and  .950  in  silver,  leav- 
ing only  about  .005  of  base  metal.  The  propor- 
tion of  gold  to  silver  varies,  and  with  it  the 
value  of  the  bullion  per  pound.  A  shipment, 
which  represented  a  fair  average,  was  of  50  bars 
of  $186,998  stamped  value,  and  weighing  5,741 
Ibs.  avoirdupois,  thus  representing  a  value  of 
$32.57  per  Ib.  Had  this  been  pure  silver,  it 
would  have  been  stamped  $18.81  per  Ib.,  and  the 
excess  above  that,  is  for  the  gold  in  the  bullion. 
It  may  surprise  one  to  be  told  that  silver  bullion, 
carrying  so  large  a  portion  of  gold,  shows  no 
trace  of  it.  A  bar  of  gold  and  silver,  in  equal 
proportions,  would  scarcely  differ  in  color  from  a 
pure  silver  bar.  Its  weight  would,  however,  re- 
veal the  presence  of  the  gold,  at  once.  When 
six  or  seven-tenths  are  gold,  its  color  begins  to 
show. 

The  valuable  product  obtained  from  the  ore 
was  over  seventy-two  per  cent,  of  its  assay  value 
during  the  month  reported  above.  It  is  not 
usual  to  obtain  a  better  result  than  this  without 
roasting  the  ore  before  amalgamation.  It  will 
interest  one,  not  familiar  with  mining,  to  notice 
how  small  in  both  bulk  and  weight  the  bullion 
product  is  when  compared  with  the  amount  of 
ore  handled.  During  the  month  referred  to,  four 
hundred  and  forty-six  tons  of  ore,  which  would 
make  a  mass  10  feet  high,  20  feet  wide  and  30 
feet  long,  yielded  only  one  ton  of  bullion,  which 
could  be  melted  into  a  solid  cube  18  3-5  inches 
on  a  side,  or  1,560  cubic  feet  of  ore  were  worked 
to  obtain  one  cubic  foot  of  bullion. 

Reduction  of  the  Ores.  The  ores  at  this 
place  are  worked  without  roasting  by  the  pan 
process  of  American  origin,  first  adopted  on  the 
Comstock  Lode.  It  is  suited  admirably  to  ores 
which  work  kindly,  requiring  little  chemical 
action  or  heat  to  make  them  part  with  their 


precious  contents,  to  be  taken  up  by  amalgama- 
tion with  quicksilver.  Though  it  rarely  yields 
as  close  a  result  as  the  Mexican  patio  process, 
or  the  furnace  and  barrel  process  of  Freiberg, 
it  is  so  much  more  expeditious  and  economical 
of  labor,  and  so,  capable  of  being  applied  on  a 
large  scale,  that,  on  the  whole,  it  is  unquestion- 
ably preferable.  The  other  processes  referred  to 
have  been  thoroughly  tried  in  Virginia  City,  and 
found  utterly  unsuited  to  the  conditions  existing 
there. 

The  first  part  of  the  process,  is  wet  crushing  of 
the  ore,  by  stamps  in  iron  mortars,  a  constant 
stream  of  water  carrying  off  through  a  brass 
wire  screen  the  pulverized  portion  as  fast  as  re- 
duced small  enough.  The  screens  are  at  the 
back  of  the  mortar.  Five  stamps,  weighing 
about  650  pounds  each,  are  usually  placed  in  a 
single  mortar,  and  are  lifted  and  dropped  from 
five  to  eight  inches  about  ninety  times  a  minute. 
The  feeder,  standing  in  front,  judges  by  the 
sound  when  and  where  to  feed  in  the  ore  lying 
behind  him.  He  is  expected  to  feed  two  batter- 
ies of  five  stamps  each,  which  are  usually  placed 
in  one  frame,  and  run  by  a  single  shaft.  Some 
mills  have  twelve  such  batteries  or  sixty  stamps. 
The  amount  crushed  by  a  stamp  in  twenty-four 
hours — for  work  never  stops  day  or  night — varies 
with  the  fineness  of  the  screen,  the  character  of 
the  ore,  and  the  skill  of  the  feeder,  and  is  from 
one  to  two  and  a  half  tons  a  day.  Automatic 
machinery  for  feeding  batteries  is  now  introduced 
in  many  mills. 

The  stream  running  constantly  from  the  bat- 
tery is  received  in  a  series  of  tanks  and  settled 
as  much  as  possible,  the  deposit  from  it  being 
coarse  sand  at  first,  and  fine  sediments  at  last. 
The  fine  sediments  are  called  slums,  and  must 
be  thoroughly  mingled  with  the  coarse  sand  in 
the  after  process,  for  though  often  containing  the 
richest  portion  of  the  ore,  the  atoms  are  so  im- 
palpably  fine,  and  adhere  to  one  another  so 
closely,  as  to  elude  the  mechanical  agencies  em- 
ployed to  obtain  the  precious  metal  they  bear, 
and,  if  woi'ked  by  themselves,  carry  away  nearly 
all  they  are  worth  with  them.  By  mingling 
them  with  the  sand  in  as  nearly  as  possible  the 
same  proportion  in  which  they  come,  from  the 
stamps,  they  become  broken  up,  separated  and 
distributed  through  the  whole  mass  of  pulp,  and 
are  persuaded  to  give  up  the  most  of  the  silver 
they  hold.  This  silver  is  not  in  metallic  form, 
but  combined  with  sulphur,  chlorine  or  antimony 
for  the  most  part.  Chlorides  of  silver  easily  and 
sulphurets  more  reluctantly  part  from  the  base 
with  which  they  are  united,  and  amalgamate 
with  quicksilver. 

Antimonial  silver  not  only  refuses  to  do  this, 
but  obstructs  the  process  on  the  part  of  other 
silver  compounds  with  which  it  may  be  associ- 
ated, and  is,  therefore,  dreaded  by  all  silver  mill- 
men  who  do  not  roast  their  ores ;  but  the  com- 


pounds of  silver  at  Virginia  City,  are  chiefly 
chlorides,  and  antimonial  silver  ores,  though  they 
occur  there,  are  found  in  small  quantities  only. 

To  effect  this  amalgamation  of  the  silver  in 
the  ore  with  mercury,  the  crushed  pulp  is  now 
placed  in  quantities  of  one  to  two  tons,  some- 
times even  more,  in  an  iron  pan,  five  or  six  feet 
in  diameter  and  three  to  four  feet  deep,  and 
ground  and  stirred  by  a  revolving  muller,  till  all 
the  coarse  sand  is  reduced  fine.  The  muller  is 
then  raised  and  the  grinding  ceases,  but  the  agi- 
tation is  continued,  and  a  large  body  of  quick 
silver  is  introduced,  and  steam  is  also  let  eithei 
into  the  body  of  the  pulp,  or  a  false  bottom  under 
the  pan,  so  as  to  heat  the  whole  mass,  the  amal- 
gamator  in  charge  standing  by  and  testing  it  with 
his  finger,  thinning  it  with  slums  of  water,  thick- 
ening  it  with  coarse  sand,  shutting  off  the  steam 
or  letting  more  on,  as  his  judgment  dictates,  till 
the  temperature  and  consistency  suit.  This  pro- 
cess is  continued  from  three  to  twelve  hours,  ac- 
cording to  the  richness  and  the  kindly  or  refract- 
orv  temper  of  the  ore.  Poor  ores  must  be  rushed 
through,  that  a  large  amount  may  be  worked. 
Rich  ores,  after  yielding  handsomely,  may  still 
obstinately  retain  more  value  than  some  poor 
ones  ever  carried. 

The  pulp  is  kept  thick  enough  to  float  minute 
atoms  of  quicksilver,  and  is  made  to  roll  over  and 
over  by  wings  on  the  sides  of  the  pan  and  on  the 
muller,  until  all  the  amalgamation  that  can  be 
effected  is  accomplished,  when  the  motion  is 
diminished,  and  the  charge  in  the  pan  drawn  off 
into  a  large  settler  on  a  lower  level,  where  it  is 
diluted  with  a  large  volume  of  cold  water,  and 
slowly  stirred,  and  the  quicksilver  atoms  uniting, 
gather  in  a  body  ait  the  bottom  and  are  drawn 
off  through  a  syphon.  Meantime,  a  stream  of 
water  running  through  the  settler,  carries  off 
the  earthy  contents,  and  finally,  when  quicksilver 
ceases  to 'gather,  the  settler  is  drawn  off  nearly 
to  the  bottom  and  made  ready  for  the  contents  of 
another  pan.  It  is  usual  to  have  one  -settler  for 
two  pans,  and  give  half  the  time  to  settling  that 
is  occupied  in  grinding  and  amalgamating. 

The  silver  and  gold,  so  far  as  they  have  been 
taken  up,  are  now  held  by  the  quicksilver.  This 
is  strained  through  long,  deep,  conical,  canvas 
bags,  and  the  tough  amalgam  obtained  is  placed 
in  close  iron  retorts,  the  quicksilver  distilled  out 
by  fire ;  crude  bullion  results,  which  is  melted  in 
a  crucible  and  poured  into  moulds,  and  when 
weighed,  assayed  and  stamped  with  its  value,  is 
ready  for  market. 

The  discharged  ore  from  the  settler  is  called 
tailings,  and  is  often  caught  in  large  reservoirs, 
and  after  lying  months  T  years,  as  the  case 
may  be,  is  worked  through  the  pans  and  settlers 
again,  and  this  process  is  sometimes  repeated 
several  times,  especially  if  ore  becomes  scarce. 
The  practice  of  different  mining  companies  as  to 
the  disposition  of  their  tailings,  varies  exceed- 


228 


ingly.  So  long  as  ore  is  plenty,  no  pains  are 
taken  to  save  them.  They  never  have  been 
•worked  so  closely  as  not  still  to  carry  several 
dollars  to  the  ton  value  in  precious  metal. 

The  process  employed  at  Virginia  City,  is  in 
use  wherever  silver  is  mined  on  the  Pacific  Coast, 
with  such  modifications  as  differences  in  the  char- 
acter of  the  ore  demand.  Some  ores  are  so  re- 
fractory as  to  require  roasting.  They  are  first 
dried  thoroughly,  then  crushed  dry,  next  roasted 
to  expel  sulphur,  antimony,  zinc,  etc.,  and  then 
treated  in  pans  and  settlers  as  if  crushed  wet  with- 
out roasting.  The  process  is  expensive,  but  has 
some  compensation  in  the  closer  percentage  of 
assay  value  obtained,  and  smaller  waste  of  quick- 
silver. The  loss  of  this  metal  in  amalgamating 
unroasted  ores,  amounts  in  various  ways  to  from 
two  to  four  pounds  for  each  ton  worked.  Some 
of  it  combines  with  chlorine  in  the  ore,  and  is 
converted  into  calomel.  This  is  lost  beyond  re- 
covery. Some  of  it  is  volatilized  by  the  heat  in 
the  pans,  and  some  escapes  through  the  joints  of 
the  retorts,  and  this  also  is  lost  finally,  and 
sometimes  hurts  workmen  exposed  to'  the  fumes. 
Most  of  it  is  lost  by  not  being  gathered  in  the 
settler.  It  goes  off  in  minute  atoms,  carrying 
gold  and  silver  with  it.  This  is  partly  recovered 
by  working  the  tailings,  or  by  running  them  over 
blankets  in  sluices  which  entrap  enough  of  it  to 
pay  well  for  the  cost  of  the  process. 

Sinks  of  the  Great  Nevada  Basin. — 
One  of  the  most  wonderful  natural  features  of 
that  part  of  the  Continent  lying  between  the 
Wahsatch  and  Sierra  Nevada  Ranges  of  Mount- 
ains, is  the  Great  Desert  and  its  numerous  sinks. 
The  sink  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake  has  already 
been  alluded  to.  It  is  a  great  natural  curiosity 
of  itself.  It  receives  the  waters  of  an  immense 
region  of  country,  and,  though  gradually  rising, 
is  still  confined  to  its  banks,  and  gives  off  its  sur- 
plus waters  by  evaporation.  There  is  no  evi- 
dence whatever  that  it  has  a  subterraneous  out- 
let. Between  it  and  the  sinks  of  the  Nevada 
Desert,  there  is  an  elevated  ridge  and  broken 
ranges  of  mountains,  with  gaps  and  valleys  be- 
tween them.  This  whole  desert  has  evidently 
been  a  lake,  or  an  inland  sea,  at  some  time, 
while  the  mountains  have  been  islands  in  it. 
Passing  the  ridge,  or  low  divide  between  the 
broken  mountains,  which  separates  the  Great 
Salt  Lake  from  the  desert  beyond,  and  we  ar- 
rive at  the  sinks  of  the  Nevada  Basin.  The 
first  is  the  Humboldt  Lake,  which  has  been  de- 
scribed. Then  the  Humboldt  and  Carson  Sink, 
which,  unlike  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  receives  the 
waters  of  both  the  Humboldt  River  and  Lake 
and  the  Carson  River  and  Lake,  flowing  from 
opposite  directions ;  and,  in  the  hot  months  of 
summer,  when  evaporation  is  greatest,  is  very 
nearly  dry.  On  the  other  hand,  in  the  spring, 
when  the  snows  of  the  mountains  melt,  or  when 
heavy  rains  occur  in  the  winter  and  spring 


months,  causing  a  large  flow  of  water  in  the 
Humboldt  and  Carson  Rivers,  these  lakes  of  the 
same  name  nearly  always  rise  together,  and  the 
vast  salty  plain,  in  and  around  the  sink,  becomes 
a  lake  of  great  size.  There  is  no  evidence  of 
any  subterranean  outlet  to  the  waters  that  flow 
into  this  large  sink.  On  the  contrary,  those  who 
have  noticed  the  rapidity  with  which  water  dis- 
appears from  a  tub  or  other  vessel  exposed  to  the 
sun  and  air  in  this  region,  have  no  difficulty  in  be- 
lieving, in  fact  almost  seeing,  the  process  of  evap- 
oration going  on,  by  which  the  waters  are  drunk 
up  and  scattered  over  the  earth  in  clouds,  to  be 
again  distilled  in  rain. 

Walker  Lake,  which  receives  the  flow  of 
Walker  River,  is  another  one  of  these  mysteri- 
ous sinks.  It  is  off  to  the  south  of  Carson 
Lake.  The  river  rises  in  the  Sierra  Nevadas 
and  flows  in  a  general  easterly  direction,  till  its 
waters  are  swallowed  up  by  the  sands  of  the 
desert,  or  lost  through  the  same  process  men- 
tioned elsewhere.  There  are  also  numerous 
streams  rising  in  the  mountains,  assuming  large 
proportions  by  the  time  they  reach  the  valleys, 
but  the  sands  of  the  desert  soon  drink  them  dry, 
and  they  are  "  lost  to  sight." 

North  of  the  Central  Pacific,  about  20  miles 
from  Wadsworth,  are  the  sinks  of  Pyramid 
Lake,  Winnemucca  Lake  and  Mud  Lake,  the 
latter  being  a  considerable  distance  north  of 
Pyramid  Lake.  These  bodies  of  water  at  times 
quite  large,  are  called  fresh  water  lakes,  though 
they  are  brackish  and  abound  in  fish.  North- 
east of  Winnemucca  Lake  is  Quin's  River,  quite 
a  large  stream  near  its  source  in  the  mountains 
of  Idaho;  but  it  becomes  lost  in  the  desert,  on  its 
way,  apparently,  to  Winnemucca  Lake.  These 
lakes  and  the  desert  are  the  mighty  sinks  which 
drink  up  the  water  that  is  not  evaporated,  but 
sometimes  evaporation  gets  the  best  of  them. 
North-west  of  Mud  Lake,  over  in  California,  is 
Honey  Lake,  another  remarkable  body  of  water. 
It  is  sometimes  dry  so  that  teams  can  be  driven 
across  its  bed,  and  then  again  it  is  on  the  ram- 
page. Its  waters  resemble  soap-suds,  and  are 
admirably  adapted  for  washing  purposes.  When 
lashed  by  the  winds,  its  waters  become  a  rolling 
mass  of  foam,  and  afford  a  magnificent  specta- 
cle to  the  beholder.  If  it  only  had  permanent 
water  of  the  character  alluded  to,  it  would  be  an 
excellent  location  for  a  huge  laundry. 

Stage  Routes  to  Lake  Tahoe.— A  favorite 
route  to  Lake  Tahoe  is  via  Carson  City.  It  may 
be  more  easily  reached  and  seen  on  the  west- 
ward tour,  than  to  wait  and  include  it  on  the 
eastward  return. 

After  a  visit  to  Virginia  City,  the  tourist  will 
return  to  Carson  City,  remain  over  night  at  a 
good  comfortable  hotel,  the  Ormsby  House.^ 
whose  proprietor  considers  it  "  the  highest  toned 
hotel  in  Nevada"  and  next  morning,  at  8.30  A. 
M.,  take  Benton's  Stage  for  Tahoe. 


229 


W 


230 


To  visit  and  make  the  circuit  of  the  lake,  and 
return  to  Carson  will  require  at  least  18  hours, 
but  most  tourists  will  find  it  desirable  to  stop  at 
the  little  hotel  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake, 
and  return  via  Truckee,  thus  seeing  greater 
variety  of  scenery. 

Tourists  by  this  route  to  Virginia  City,  Carson 
and  Tahoe,  will  be  obliged  to  leave  the  Overland 
Western  train  at  Reno  at  8:30  p.  M.  ,  and  spend 
the  night  at  Reno  at  the  Railroad  Hotel,  or 
go  on  the  same  night  to  Carson  or  Virginia 
City. 

^During  the  summer,  stages  leave  Carson 
every  morning  about  eight  o'clock  for  Lake 
Tahoe. 

Private  teams,  or  special  stages,  can  be  en- 
gaged at  Benton's  stables,  in  Carson,  for  a  trip 
to  the  Lake  at  any  time. 

On  this  route  there  is  the  best  known  of  all 
California  stage-drivers,  who  have  reined  kyuse 
or  mustang  horses, — the  modest  Hank  Monk. 
His  first  fame  was  not  on  the  platform  of 
Faneuil  Hall  in  oratory,  but  in  the  streets  of 
Boston,  with  eight  horses  abreast,  well  trained 
to  the  voice  and  whip.  He  has  driven  stage  in 
California  and  Nevada,  since  1852,  and  made 
the  distance  between  Carson  and  Virginia,  21 
miles,  in  one  hour  and  eight  minutes.  His  ap- 
pearance and  gait  do  not  indicate  much  energy, 
but  he  drove  Horace  Greeley  109  miles  in  10 
hours,  fast  enough  toward  the  end  of  the 
journey,  and  as  long  as  he  can  wake  up  his  pets 
with  a  strong  voice  or  far  reaching  whip,  he  will 
not  fail  to  get  his  passengers  through,  "  on 
time."  But  to  the  credit  of  others,  it  should  be 
said,  that  California  and  Nevada  have  hundreds 
of  drivers  not  less  skillful  and  reliable  than  the 
favorite  Monk. 

The  route  to  the  lake  lies  first  south,  through 
the  Carson  Valley,  toward  Job's  Peaks  and  Silver 
Mountain,  always  beautiful  with  snow.  In  the 
clear  atmosphere,  the  first  will  appear  only  a  few 
miles  away,  but  it  is  still  more  than  twenty 
miles  distant.  The  stage  road  turns  west,  up  Clear 
Creek  Canon,  through  which  comes  the  Twenty- 
one  Mile  (V  shaped)  Flume  of  the  Carson  &  Ta- 
hoe Lumber  Company,  through  which  700  cords 
of  wood,  or  half  a  million  feet  of  mining  timber 
can  be  daily  delivered  at  Carson  City  from  the 
summits  of  the  Sierras.  Along  the  canon  are 
many  towering,  sun-burnt  rocks,  weather-beaten 
and  worn  into  weird  and  fantastic  shapes,  and 
these  and  the  swift-descending  timber,  splashing 
the  water  up  many  feet  at  every  turn,  to  sparkle 
in  the  sunlight,  the  Carson  Valley  spread  out 
below,  with  the  Pine  Nut,  Walker  and  Sweet- 
water  Mountains  on  one  side,  and  the  Sierras 
opposite,  always  attract  and  delight  the  lover  of 
bold  mountain  scenery. 

At  the  summit,  the  flume  connects  with 
the  Lake  Tahoe  N.  G.  Railroad,  9  miles 
long  from  summit  to  Glenbrook  on  shore  of 


the  lake.  The  distance  is  but  thi-ee  miles  by 
wagon  road,  6  miles  less  than  by  the  R.  R.  The 
railroad  is  worked  only  in  the  summer  months — 
after  much  of  it  has  been  sought  out  and  found 
with  shovels,  and  is  exposed  to  damage  and  de- 
struction from  avalanches  of  snow  or  rock  which 
come  thundering  down  the  steep  sides  with  re- 
sistless force.  Near  the  summit  it  has  the  enor- 
mous grade  of  180  feet  to  the  mile.  This  pas- 
sage over  the  eastern  summit  of  the  Sierras  is 
made  where  the  range  is  depressed  and  the  view, 
though  beautiful,  is  far  too  contracted  to  fully 
gratify  the  traveler.  Below,  lies  Lake  Tahoe, 
girt  with  everlasting  pine-clad  hills  whose  snowy 
masses  and  evergreen  foliage  mingle  with  the 
deep  blue  of  an  inland  sea,  yet  only  a  small  por- 
tion of  its  beauty  can  be  seen. 

Lake  Tahoe. — This  great  body  of  fresh 
water,  25  miles  long,  on  an  average  ten  wide, 
about  three-fourths  in  California,  and  one-fourth 
in  Nevada,  has  an  elevation  of  a  mile  and  a 
quarter,  and  has  been  sounded  to  a  depth  of 
3,000  feet.  Through  glacial  action  in  past  ages, 
ice  must  have  been  piled  up  in  the  valley  of  this 
lake  3,400  feet  high.  It  never  freezes,  is  smooth 
as  glass  and  clear  as  crystal,  permitting  the 
trout  to  be  seen  or  pebbles  counted  at  a  depth  of 
80  feet.  Its  water  changes  color  to  a  beautiful 
emerald  or  almost  indigo  blue  according  to  the 
depth,  and  when  disturbed  by  the  fierce  mount- 
ain winds,  its  waves  lash  the  shore  with  foaming 
fury. 

At  Glenbrook,  five  steamers  will  be  found, 
three  of  which  are  employed  for  the  mills,  and 
the  others,  the  "  Niagara  "  and  "  Stanford  "  will 
convey  tourists,  not  exceeding  200  in  number, 
around  the  lake. 

Glenbrook  is  the  business  center  of  the  whole 
region  that  borders  on  the  lake.  It  has  four 
saw-mills  with  an  aggregate  capacity  of  five 
million  feet  per  month,  running  11 1-2  hours 
per  day,  also  a  planing  mill. 

Captain  Pray,  the  oldest  settler,  is  a  large 
land-owner,  and  much  of  the  200  acres  in  the 
ranche  on  the  shores  of  the  lake,  is  covered  with 
a  beautiful  sod  of  timothy  and  clover.  In  the 
State  there  is  no  finer  land,  and  as  the  captain 
and  other  mill-owners  will  rent  none  for  saloon 
purposes,  Glenbrook,  with  a  summer  population 
of  500,  is  a  temperance  town.  The  Glenbrook 
Hotel,  usually  kept  in  first-class  style,  is  usually 
open  each  season,  if  not,  comfortable  accommo- 
dations can  still  be  found  at  the  Lake  Shore 
House,  for  $20  a  week,  without  extra  charge  for 
the  use  of  boats. 

Shakespeare  Rock,  a  remarkable  curiosity,  is 
a  bold,  perpendicular  rock  on  which  the  profile 
of  the  great  poet's  face  is  outlined  with  great 
accuracy. 

From  Glenbrook  there  is  a  charming  drive  on 
the  old  Placerville  Road,  past  Cave  Rock,  and 
around  the  head  of  the  lake  to  Rowlands  or 


231 


Yank's.  The  road  was  constructed  at  great  ex- 
pense— a  single  mile  near  the  rock,  costing  $40,- 
000.  The  only  other  drive,  of  note,  is  from 
Tahoe  City  to  Sugar  Pine  Point. 

The  whole  of  the  lake  is  not  visible  until  the 
steamer  has  run  out  a  little  distance  from  the 
shore.  Then  its  generic  name  is  rather  fitting. 
"  Tahoe,"  in  the  Indian,  signifies  "  big  water," 
a  ad  is  the  name  for  ocean.  The  shore  slopes 
gently,  in  places,  for  two  miles  to  a  depth  of 
from  30  to  50  feet,  then  breaks  sometimes  ab- 
ruptly as  at  the  Bluffs  of  Rubicon  or  Observa- 
tory Point,  to  a  depth  of  600  or  800  feet;  and  off 
Sugar  Pine  Point  is  the  greatest  depth  yet  found. 
The  water  is  clear  as  crystal,  and  the  tempera- 
ture in  summer,  when  taken  from  considerable 
depth,  very  near  the  freezing  point.  The  fare 
across  the  lake  is  $2.50,  and  around,  $5.  The 
steamer  must  lie  idle  half  the  year,  and  reasona- 
ble fares  may  seem  thus  high.  Leaving  Glen- 
brook  for  a  circuit  around  the  head  of  the  lake, 
the  first  object  of  interest  is  Cave  Rock,  three 
and  one-half  miles  from  Glenbrook,  about  400 
feet  high.  This  appears  in  the  engraving  from 
Moran's  sketch  made  from  the  point  just  south 
of  Glenbrook,  and  looking  south  and  west. 

After  passing  the  rock,  and  looking  back,  it 
resembles  the  Great  South  Dome  of  Yosemite, 
split  in  two,  and  the  cavern,  30  feet  in  length,  is 
seen  about  100  feet  above  the  ground.  The  line 
of  solid  masonry  and  bridge  for  the  road  can  just 
be  traced  from  the  point  where  the  artist  stood. 
,  Leaving  Cave  Rock,  Zephyr  Cove  is  three  miles 
south.  Beautiful  meadows  afford  fine  pasturage, 
and  being  on  the  east  side,  the  earliest  vege- 
tables are  here  grown.  The  mountain's  wall 
shows  plainly  its  broken  but  regular  character. 
From  the  main  ridge,  a  cross  spur  is  thrown  out, 
but  this  must  again  be  broken  into  a  succession 
of  small  canons  and  "  divides." 

Just  south  of  the  cave  is  the  old  Friday 
Ranche,  well  known  by  the  pioneers  who  were 
"on  the  way  to  Washoe"  and  the  Kingsbury 
Canon,  through  which  the  road  crossed  the 
mountain  to  Genoa.  In  other  days,  the  toll  re- 
ceipts on  the  Kingsbury  grade  were  $500  a  day. 

Rowlands — 14  miles  from  Glenbrook,  at  the 
head  of  the  lake,  on  the  Old  Placerville  Road, 
was  the  first  place  of  resort  on  the  lake  and 
originally  called  the  Lake  House.  It  has  greatly 
changed  from  the  day  when  J.  Ross  Browne  was 
a  guest,  and  the  host  "  seemed  to  be  quite  worn  out 
with  his  run  of  customers, — from  a  hundred  to 
three  hundred  of  a  night,  and  nowhere  to  stow 
'em — all  cussin'  at  him  for  not  keepin'  provis- 
ions, with  but  little  to  drink,  except  old  fash- 
ioned tarantula-juice,  warranted  to  kill  at  forty 
paces."  It  has  now  two  stores  and  a  post-office, 
with  accommodations  for  tourists  at  moderate 
price.  Lake  Valley  appears,  from  a  distance, 
like  a  large,  pine-covered  flat.  It  is  14  miles 
long  and  six  wide,  partly  covered  with  timber, 


and  having  much  grazing  land  of  the  best 
quality.  The  stock  that  pastures  in  these  fertile 
valleys  of  the  lake,  is  all  driven  out  before  the 
winter  snows  begin.  Between  Rowlands  and 
Yank's,  is  the  terminus  of  Gardner's  Rail- 
road, a  successful  enterprise  for  lumbering.  It 
will  soon  be  extended  from  six  to  ten  miles. 

Yank's — is  4  miles  from  Rowlands,  and  at 
the  south-west  end  of  the  lake,  just  west  of  and 
with  convenient  access  to  Lake  Valley,  and  is 
situated  on  a  grassy  sward,  in  a  beautiful  grove 
of  tamaracks  interspersed  with  tall  pines  and 
quaking  aspens,  with  a  pebbly  beach  gently 
sloping  from  Teliae  Point,  commanding  a  view 
of  the  whole  lake,  with  convenient  access  to 
Teliae  Mountain,  and  only  two  miles  from  Fall- 
en Leaf  Lake,  another  beautiful  sheet  of  water, 
three  miles  long  and  one  and  one-half  wide,  at 
the  head  of  which  are  excellent  Soda  Springs. 
Teliae  Mountain  is  easily  recognized  from  ita 
long,  flat  summit,  and  may  be  ascended  via  Fall- 
en Leaf  Lake  and  a  steep  canon.  The  view 
from  the  summit  is  one  of  the  finest  on  the  Con- 
tinent. 

To  the  east,  looking  across  Lake  Valley  and 
the  beautiful  Tahoe,  the  eastern  summits  do  not 
shut  out  the  country  beyond,  for  Carson  Valley 
and  much  of  Nevada  are  in  sight.  On  the  west, 
are  the  great  valleys  of  central  California,  beyond 
them  the  Coast  Range,  and  scattered  among  the 
countless  snow  and  purple  peaks  of  the  Sierras, 
there  nestle  thirty-six  lakes  in  sight,  varying 
from  the  deep,  dark  blue  of  Tahoe  to  the  bril- 
liancy of  silver  beneath  a  noonday  sun.  Horses 
and  boats  are  always  to  be  had  at  Yank's. 
Twenty  dollars  per  week  is  the  price  of  board ; 
boats  are  charged  for  at  the  rate  of  city  prices 
for  carriages. 

"Yank"  is  a  soubriquet  to  mark  the  Green 
Mountain  origin  of  the  former  host,  Mr.  E. 
Clement.  It  is  now  owned  by  Mr.  Bald- 
win, of  Baldwin's  Hotel,  San  Francisco, 
and  the  proprietor  proposes  to  make  it  the 
most  attractive  place  on  the  lake.  None 
is  more  favored  for  situation,  as  it  com- 
mands an  unsurpassed  view  of  the  lake. 

Leaving  Yank's,  the  steamer  heads  north  and 
proceeds  four  miles  to  Emerald  Bay,  passing  two 
well-rounded  peaks  at  the  foot  of  which  is  a 
beautiful  valley,  in  which  lies  Cascade  Lake. 
This,  too,  is  accessible  from  Yank's  and  is  one  of 
its  attractions.  The  point  just  north  of  the  en- 
trance to  Emerald  Bay  was  long  the  home  of 
America's  pride  among  the  birds,  and  is  named 
Eagle  Point. 

Emerald  Bay — is  a  gem  of  beauty — entered 
on  the  south  side  of  a  narrow  strait,  as  shown  on 
our  title-page.  It  is  two  miles  long  by  about 
three-fourths  of  a  mile  wide.  The  entrance  is 
shoal,  but  the  bay  deep.  Near  the  head  of  the 
bay  is  a  little  granite  island,  with  a  few  small 
trees  and  shrubs,  and  the  unfilled  tomb  of  an 


232 


eccentric  tar — Captain  Dick — who  prepared  the 
island  for  his  own  mausoleum,  in  which  he  in- 
tended to  place  himself  on  the  approach  of  death, 
but  his  drowned  body  became  food  for  the  fishes, 
and  the  lonely  cross  marked  an  empty  tomb. 

This  charming  bay  is  owned  by  Ben  Holladay, 
Jr.  His  summer  residence  is  surrounded  by  a 
grove  of  willows  and  a  stream  fed  by  eternal 
snows,  pouring  down  in  three  successive  lofty 
•waterfalls,  which  rival  in  grace  and  beauty 
some  of  the  smaller  in  Yosemite,  keeps  the 
grassy  sward  always  green,  and  plays  in  a 
fountain  before  the  door. 

The  surrounding  hills  are  so  steep  that  they 
can  be  climbed  only  with  great  difficulty.  Just 
opposite  the  island,  on  the  north  side,  there  is 
the  mark  of  an  avalanche  of  snow,  that  carried 
the  tall  pines  before  it  like  shrubs,  and  has  left 
the  mountain  side  completely  bare. 

Rubicon  Point  and  Bay,  and  Sugar  Pine  Point 
are  next  passed,  going  north  on  the  way  to 
McKinney's,  ten  miles  from  Emerald  Bay. 

At  McKinney's,  there  is  no  large  house,  but 
13  cottages  and  pleasant  surroundings.  The 
road  to  Tahoe  City,  gives  this  the  advantage  of  a 
pleasant  drive.  Board  may  be  had  at  $20  a 
week. 

Continuing  north,  the  steamer  passes  Black- 
wood  Creek,  where  some  towering  rocks  are  seen 
whose  height  is  scarcely  comprehended,  because 
the  trees  and  mountains  beyond  are  on  so  great 
a  scale.  Small  as  they  seem,  they  are  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet  high,  and  the  trees  at  their 
base  not  less  than  200  feet. 

Ward's  Bay  lies  north  of  the  Creek,  and 
Bawker's  Peak,  a  sharp,  high  point,  is  back  in 
the  mountains. 

Tahoe  City. — is  eight  miles  from  McKinney's, 
and  one  of  the  loveliest  spots  on  the  lake.  It  is 
at  the  source  of  the  Truckee  River,  the  only  outlet 
of  the  lake,  and  has  the  "  Grand  Central,"  the 
largest  hotel  on  the  Sierras,  with  accommodations 
for  160  guests,  and  kept  by  those  excellent  hosts, 
Bayley  &  Moody.  This  is  the  most  con- 
venient point  of  access  for  tourists  from  Califor- 
nia. The  road  to  Truckee  is  down  the  beautiful 
canon  of  the  Truckee  River,  through  a  noble 
forest  of  pines,  invigorating  and  delightful  at 
every  step.  Sail  and  row-boats  of  all  kinds  may 
be  had  at  this  point,  and  also  carriages;  but  the 
prices  should  be  agreed  upon  beforehand.  No 
boats  are  kept  for  the  use  of  the  hotel. 

Board  at  the  Grand  Central  may  be  had,  vary- 
ing from  .13.00  to  $4.00  per  day,  according  to 
rooms.  The  view  of  the  lake  from  Tahoe  City 
is  not  excelled,  and  equalled  only  at  Yank's 
and  the  Hot  Springs. 

^  The  hotel  and  other  accommodations  are  supe- 
rior to  all  others  on  the  lake.  Besides  the  Grand 
Central,  there  is  the  Tahoe  House,  kept  by  Cap- 
tain Pomin. 

Tourists  who  desire  to  spend  only  one  daj  in 


visiting  the  lake,  take   stages  at  this  point  to 
Truckee,  12  miles  down  the  river. 

A  carriage  road  has  been  constructed  around 
the  lake,  so  that  tourists  may  take  saddles 
or  carriages  and  visit  all  the  places  of  interest 
at  their  leisure. 

Trout. — At  Tahoe  City  there  is  a  trout  estab- 
lishment of  much  interest;  and  another,  on  a 
larger  scale,  on  the  river  half  way  to  Truckee 
Station.  The  water  is  admitted  to  a  series  of 
ponds,  each  pond  being  appropriated  to  trout  of 
a  different  size.  The  eggs  are  taken  during  April, 
May  and  June,  when  the  fish  ascend  the  river 
and  the  creeks,  to  spawn.  The  eggs  are  stripped 
from  the  female  and  impregnated  by  stripping 
the  male  fish  into  the  same  vessel  in  which  the 
eggs  are  contained,  and  then  placed  on  inclined 
shelves  or  tables  where  about  half  an  inch  of 
water  runs  gently,  but  steadily  over  them.  The 
temperature  of  the  water  affects  the  time  of  hatch- 
ing, and  the  desire  is  to  have  the  water  as  cold  as 
possible  at  the  expense  of  time  to  produce  the 
hardier  fish.  One  trout  contains  about  7,000 
spawn.  Twenty-five  cents  is  charged  for  admis- 
sion to  the  fishery,  and  the  privilege  of  fishing  in 
the  ponds  granted  for  twenty-five  or  fifty  cents  a 
fish,  according  to  the  size. 

The  fishing  in  the  lake  is  done  by  trolling. 
Spoon-hooks  are  sometimes  used,  but  early  in  the 
season  it  is  necessary  to  have  some  shining  de- 
vice to  attract  attention  besides  a  minnow  on 
the  hook.  The  fisheries  have  been  quite  success- 
ful in  hatching  fish,  but  not  profitable.  At  first 
nearly  all  died ;  now  nearly  all  are  raised.  The 
young  fish  are  nourished  for  several  days  after 
birth  by  a  portion  of  the  egg  from  which  they 
are  hatched  remaining  attached  to  them  till  it  is 
absorbed,  and  then  are  fed  on  mashed  fish,  the 
yolks  of  eggs  and  liver,  and  the  large  trout  are 
fed  on  suckers  and  white  fish  caught  in  the  lakes 
with  seines.  Of  course  no  trout  are  caught  in 
seines,  for  this  is  contrary  to  law. 

After  they  have  grown  to  weigh  several  pounds, 
they  will  increase  at  the  rate  of  a  pound  a  year. 
The  quantity  caught  in  a  year  can  not  be  esti- 
mated. Many  are  never  sent  to  market,  and 
they  are  caught  in  both  the  lake  and  the  river 
as  well  as  in  Donner  Lake. 

From  the  Truckee  River  alone,  170,000  pounds 
have  been  caught  in  a  single  season,  half  of 
which  are  usually  shipped  to  Virginia  City. 

In  the  lake  there  are  at  least  four  kinds,  two 
of  which  are  most  commonly  known.  These  are 
the  silver  trout  and  the  black  trout.  The  silver 
trout  are  most  highly  esteemed,  are  always  taken 
in  deep  water,  and  attain  a  size  of  thirty-two 
pounds.  The  silver  trout  of  Donner  Lake  grow 
from  eight  to  ten  pounds,  and  those  in  the  river 
are  not  so  large.  The  black  trout  run  up  the 
creeks  sooner  in  the  spring  than  the  silver,  but 
the  latter  can  pass  over  greater  obstacles  than 
the  former. 


233 


The  white  fish  found  in  the  lake  are  quite 
unlike  those  of  the  Great  North  American 
Ijakes. 

While  the  tourist  who  merely  crosses  the 
lake  from  Glenbrook  to  Tahoe,  or  vice  versa, 
or  who  desires  to  reach  the  Central  Pacific 
Railroad,  with  the  loss  of  one  day  only,  will 
not  make  the  entire  circuit  of  the  lake;  others 
will  visit  the  north  end,  and  some  may  prefer 
this  alone.  Continuing  around  from  Tahoe 
City,  Burton's  or  Island  Farm  is  two  miles 
from  Tahoe  City.  It  is  a  lovely  spot,  with 
summer  green  meadows  and  pebbly  beach,  and 
accommodates  at  reasonable  cost  twenty-five 
or  thirty  people.  It  is  a  favorite  resort  for 
California  clergymen  needing  rest. 

Burton's  is  not  too  far  from  Tahoe  City  for 
exercise  at  the  oars  of  a  small  boat. 

Passing  around  the  north  end  of  the  lake, 
there  is  next,  Observatory  Point,  where  the  great 
telescope  of  James  Lick  was  expected  to  be 
erected,  and  beyond  this  is  Carnelian  Bay,  and 
Carnelian  Beach,  so  called  from  fine  specimens 
of  chalcedony  here  found.  Here  is  Doctor 
Bournes'  hygienic  establishment. 

Beyond  this,  are  Agate  bay  and  then  Camp- 
bell's Hot  Springs,  ten  miles  from  Glenbrook, 
and  on  Boundary  Point,  because  it  marks  the 
dividing  line  between  California  and  Nevada. 

The  water  boils  out  in  several  places  i  n  great 
volume.  The  hotel  is  comfortable;  the  charge 
$3  a  day  ;  the  entire  lake  is  seen  from  the  house, 
and  the  baths  are  an  advantage  to  be  had  no- 
where else  on  the  lake.  There  is  a  stage  from  this 
point  to  Truckee,  and  the  stages  from  Tahoe  City 
will  also  carry  passengers  thence  to  the  springs. 

Fishing  and  boating  and  driving  can  be  en- 
joyed at  pleasure,  and  in  the  hills  there  are  a  few 
grouse,  quail,  deer,  and  bear,  but  game  is  not 
plentiful. 

The  lumber  and  Trees  of  the  Lake 
Begion. — The  logs  which  are  brought  down  to 
the  lake  at  various  points  are  towed  to  Glenbrook 
in  V-shaped  booms,  from  50  to  70  feet  wide  at 
one  end,  and  about  150  feet  long,  averaging 
200,000  feet  of  lumber. 

The  sugar  pine  is  the  most  valuable,  then  the 
yellow  pine.  The  black,  or  "  bull "  pine  was 
long  despised,  but  is  now  highly  prized  for  its 
strength.  It  reaches,  in  California,  a  diameter 
of  15,  and  height  of  200  feet ;  about  the  lake,  a 
diameter  of  10  feet.  The  leaves  are  of  a  dark 
green  color,  but  the  cones  are  enormous — some- 
times 18  inches  long.  The  wood  is  fine  grained 
and  solid,  soft  and  clear. 

The  yellow  pine  is  not  quite  so  large,  seldom 
exceeding  10  feet  in  diameter,  and  has  bark  fur- 
rowed into  plate-like  sections,  six  or  eight  inches 
wide,  and  from  12  to  20  inches  long. 

The  "  bull "  pine  is  a  favorite  with  the  wood- 
pecker for  storing  his  acorns,  not  in  the  hollow 
trees,  but  by  drilling  holes  in  the  bark,  and  fit- 


ting an  acorn  into  each.  Old  woodmen  say  the 
bird  never  makes  a  misfit,  and  selects,  the  first 
time,  a  nut  which  will  exactly  fill  the  hole  he 
has  drilled.  In  the  valleys  of  California,  nearly 
all  large  trees  are  utilized  in  this  way. 

There  are  two  kinds  of  fir,  the  white  and  the 
red.  The  latter  called  also  the  Douglass  fir,  is  a 
good  strong  timber ;  the  former  is  the  least 
esteemed  in  the  market. 

Other  pines  of  the  Sierras  are  interesting,  but 
notice  of  all  must  be  omitted  except  the  Nut  or 
"  Digger "  pine,  so  called  from  a  sweet  or  oily 
seed  forming  a  staple  article  of  food  for  the 
Indians,  but  it  does  not  grow  in  the  high 
Sierras.  It  is  dwarfish  and  scraggy,  without 
one  main  trunk,  but  dividing  up  into  several. 
It  is  said  that  this  is  so  liable  to  "  draw  "  while 
seasoning,  that  miners  who  were  compelled  to 
use  it  for  building  their  cabins,  were  not  sur- 
prised to  see  them  turn  over  two  or  three  times 
in  the  course  of  the  summer. 

To  see  the  mountains,  the  best  plan  is  to 
stop  at  the  summit,  where  there  is  a  first-class 
hotel,  and  gain  the  views  from  the  peaks  near 
by,  and  then  descend  the  mountain  by  a  freight 
train,  leaving  the  summit  at  5:30  A.  M.,  and 
reaching  Sacramento  the  same  evening  at  4:10. 
For  this,  one  must  be  willing  to  exchange  the 
Palace  car  for  the  caboose,  and  accept  delay 
in  exchange  for  the  leisurely  enjoyment  of 
the  most  wonderful  railroad  scenery  in  the 
world. 


The  Great  Nevada  Flume. 


A   PERILOUS  RIDE. 


BY  H.  J.  KAMSDELIj,  OF  "THE  N.  T.  TRIBUNE. 

A  15  mile  ride  in  a  flume  down  the  Sierra 
Nevada  Mountains  in  35  minutes,  was  not  one  of 
the  things  contemplated  on  my  visit  to  Virginia 
City,  and  it  is  entirely  within  reason  to  say  that 
I  shall  never  make  the  trip  again. 

The  flume  cost,  with  its  appurtenances,  between 
$200,000  and  $300,000.  It  was  built  by  a  com- 
pany interested  in  the  mines  here,  principally 
owners  of  the  Consolidated  Virginia,  California, 
Hale  &  Norcross,  Gould  &  Curry,  Best  &  Belcher, 
and  Utah  Mines.  The  largest  stockholders  are  J. 
C.  Flood,  James  G.  Fair,  John  Mackey,  and  W.  S. 
O'Brien,  who  compose,  without  doubt,  the  wealth- 
iest firm  in  the  United  States. 

The  mines  named  use  1,000,000  feet  of  lumber 
per  month  underground,  and  burn  40,000  cords 
of  wood  per  year.  Wood  here  is  worth  from  $10 
to  $12  a  cord,  and  at  market  prices,  Messrs. 


234 


Flood  &  Co.,  would  have  to  pay  for  wood  alone, 
nearly  $500,000  per  year. 

Virginia  City  is  not  built  in  a  forest.  From 
the  top  of  Mount  Davidson,  which  is  half  a  mile 
back  from  the  city,  there  is  not  a  tree  in  sight, 
except  a  few  shade-trees  in  the  city. 

Going  into  the  mines  the  other  day,  and  see- 
ing the  immense  amount  of  timber  used,  I  asked 
Mr.  Mackey  where  all  the  wood  and  timber  came 
from.  "It  comes,"  said  he,  "  from  our  lands  in 
the  Sierras,  40  or  50  miles  from  here.  We  own 
over  12,000  acres  in  the  vicinity  of  Washoe  Lake, 
all  of  which  is  heavily  timbered." 

"  How  do  you  get  it  here  ?  "  I  asked. 

"  It  comes,"  said  he,  "  in  our  flume  down  the 
mountain,  15  miles,  and  from  our  dumping 
grounds  is  brought  by  the  Virginia  &  Truckee 
Railroad  to  this  city,  16  miles.  You  ought  to  see 
this  flume  before  you  go  back.  It  is  really  a 
wonderful  thing." 

Tlie  Journey. — When,  therefore,  two  days 
afterward,  I  was  invited  to  accompany  Mr.  Flood 
and  Mr.  Fair  to  the  head  of  the  flume,  I  did  not 
hesitate  to  accept  their  kind  offer.  We  started 
at  four  o'clock  in  the  morning,  in  two  buggies, 
the  two  gentlemen  named  in  one  buggy,  and  Mr. 
Hereford,  the  President  and  Superintendent  of  the 
company  (which  is  known  as  the  Pacific  Wood, 
Lumber  and  Flume  Company)  and  myself  in  the 
other. 

The  drive  through  Washoe  Valley,  and  along 
the  mountains,  up  and  down  for  16  miles  over  a 
road  which,  for  picturesqueness,  is  without  an 
equal  in  memory,  can  not  be  described.  Not  a 
tree,  nor  bush,  nor  any  green  vegetation  was  in 
sight.  Hills  and  mountains,  well  defined  and 
separate  in  character,  were  in  every  direction. 
Sage  brush  and  jack  rabbits  were  the  only  living 
things  in  sight.  That  beautiful  purple  atmos- 
phere or  mist,  which  has  a  dreamy,  sleepy  effect 
in  the  landscape,  overspread  the  mountains  and 
extended  through  the  valley. 

The  road  we  traversed  swung  round  and  round 
the  mountains,  now  going  nearly  to  the  summit, 
and  now  descending  to  their  base. 

Both  teams  employed  were  of  the  best,  and  in 
less  than  an  hour  and  a  half  we  had  accom- 
plished the  first  part  of  our  journey,  16  miles. 
Here,  we  breakfasted  and  went  to  the  end  of  the 
flume,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  distant.  The  men 
were  running  timber  16  inches  square  and  10 
feet  long  through  it.  The  trestle-work  upon 
which  the  flume  rested  was  about  20  feet  from 
the  ground.  The  velocity  of  the  movement  of 
the  timber  could  scarcely  be  credited,  for  it  re- 
quires from  only  twenty-five  minutes  to  half  an 
hour  for  it  to  float  the  entire  length  of  the  flume, 
15  miles. 

The  flume  is  shaped  like  the  letter  V,  and  is 
made  of  two-inch  plank  nailed  together  in  the 
above  shape.  Across  the  top  it  is  about  two  and 
one-half  feet  in  width.  The  ends  are  very  care- 


fully fitted,  so  that  where  the  planks  go  together 
there  may  be  no  unevenness ;  for  timbers  going  at 
the  rate  of  15  to  60  miles  per  hour  must  have  a 
clear  coast. 

In  this  trough  the  water  runs  from  Hunter's 
Creek,  which  is  situated  about  20  miles  from  the 
terminus  of  the  flume. 

Some  idea  of  the  swiftness  with  which  the 
timber  runs  through  the  flume,  may  be  had 
when  it  is  stated  that  in  the  flume  there  floats 
500,000  feet  of  lumber  every  day  (about  ten 
hours),  or  500  cords  of  wood. 

Near  the  terminus  an  iron  break  is  placed  in 
the  trough,  slanting  toward  one  side,  so  that 
when  the  timber  comes  rushing  down,  50  or  100 
pieces,  one  after  the  other,  each  piece  is  turned 
toward  the  side,  and  the  men  at  the  break,  with 
a  dexterous  use  of  the  crowbar,  send  them 
bounding  to  the  ground. 

I  climbed  to  the  top  of  the  trestle-work,  be- 
fore the  timber  began  to  come.  It  was  like  the 
rushing  of  a  herd  of  buffalo  on  a  party  of  hunt- 
ers, and  I  preferred  to  view  the  flume,  in  active 
working,  from  a  distance. 

We  changed  teams  upon  resuming  our  journey, 
taking  fresh  horses  for  the  mountain  ascent. 
Horsemen  in  the  East  who  have  never  seen  the 
mountains  of  Nevada,  Colorado  and  California, 
can  have  no  idea  of  the  amount  of  work  a  horse 
can  do,  and  of  the  difficult  places  through  which 
he  will  go,  and  of  the  load  he  will  carry  or  draw. 

How  a  pair  of  horses  can  pull  a  buggy  and 
two  men  up  a  grade  that  seems  half-way  be- 
tween the  horizontal  and  the  perpendicular,  over 
stones  and  fallen  trees,  and  through  underbrush 
six  feet  high  and  very  thick,  is  a  question  I  can 
never  hope  to  solve;  at  any  rate,  we  reached  the 
lower  mill  of  the  company,  about  18  or  20  miles. 
This  was  several  hours  before  noon. 

The  mill  is  situated  in  the  lower  belt  of  tim- 
ber, and  there  are  between  400  and  500  men  at 
work.  This  number  includes  those  engaged  in 
cutting  trees,  hauling  logs,  and  sawing  the  lum- 
ber. How  the  heavy  machinery  of  the  mills, 
and  the  engines  which  work  them  were  brought 
from  the  city  up  the  mountains  and  placed  in 
position,  is  another  mystery  which  I  have  not 
tried  to  investigate. 

The  amount  of  lumber  turned  out  by  the 
owneV  of  these  mills,  the  upper  and  the  lower,  the 
former  being  two  and  one-half  miles  farther  up 
the  mountain,  is  marvellous. 

In  five  minutes'  time,  a  log  from  two  to  four 
feet  in  diameter  is  reduced  to  lumber,  planks, 
scantling,  boards,  and  square  timber,  perhaps  all 
from  the  same  log,  for  it  is  cut  in  the  most  ad- 
vantageous manner.  Sometimes  one  log  will 
give  three  or  four  different  kinds  of  lumber. 
The  lower  mill  is  kept  running  night  and  day,  and 
has  a  capacity  of  50,000  feet  per  day  cf  small 
stuff,  and  of  70,000  feet  when  working  on  large 
timber. 


235 


SUMMITS  OF  THE  SIERRAS. 

BY  THOMAS  MOUAN. 


2U6 


The  upper  mill  has  less  than  half  the  capacity, 
"being  smaller,  and  being  worked  only  12  hours 
a  day. 

The  Flume. — The  flume  is  a  wonderful 
piece  of  engineering  work.  It  is  built  wholly 
upon  trestle-work,  and  stringers ;  there  is  not  a 
cut  in  the  whole  distance,  and  the  grade  is  so 
heavy  that  there  is  little  danger  of  a  jam. 

The  trestle-work  is  very  substantial,  and  is  un- 
doubtedly strong  enough  to  support  a  narrow 
gauge  railway.  It  runs  over  foot  hills,  through 
valleys,  around  mountains,  and  across  canons. 

In  one  place  it  is  70  feet  high.  The  highest 
point  of  the  flume  from  the  plain,  is  3,700  feet, 
and  on  an  air  line,  from  beginning  to  end,  the 
distance  is  eight  miles,  the  course  thus  taking 
up  seven  miles  in  twists  and  turns.  The  trestle- 
work  is  thoroughly  braced,  longitudinally  and 
across,  so  that  no  break  can  extend  farther  than  a 
single  box,  which  is  16  feet;  all  the  main  sup- 
ports, which  are  five  feet  apart,  are  firmly  set  in 
mud-sills,  and  the  boxes  or  troughs  rest  in  brackets 
four  feet  apart.  These  again  rest  upon  sub- 
stantial stringers.  The  grade  of  the  flume  is 
between  1,600  and  2,000  feet  from  the  top  to 
lower  end,  a  distance  of  15  miles. 

The  sharpest  fall  is  three  feet  in  six.  There 
are  two  reservoirs  from  which  the  flume  is  fed. 
One  is  1,100  feet  long,  and  the  other  600  feet.  A 
ditch,  nearly  two  miles  long,  takes  the  water  to  the 
first  reservoir,  whence  it  is  conveyed  3  1-4  miles  to 
the  flume  through  a  feeder  capable  of  carrying 
450  inches  of  water. 

The  whole  flume  was  built  in  10  weeks.  In 
that  time  all  the  trestle-work,  stringers  and  boxes 
were  put  in  place.  About  200  men  were  employed 
on  it  at  one  time,  being  divided  into  four  gangs. 
It  required  2,000,000  feet  of  lumber,  but  the  item 
which  astonished  me  most  was  that  there  were 
28  tons,  or  56,000  pounds  of  nails,  used  in  the 
construction  of  this  flume. 

To  the  lower  mill,  as  the  road  goes,  it  is  about 
40  miles  from  Virginia  City.  Although  I  had 
already  ridden  this  distance,  yet  I  mounted  a 
horse  and  rode  two  or  three  miles  to  the  top  of 
the  mountain,  where  I  had  one  of  the  finest 
valley  views  that  come  to  the  lot  of  man.  Miles 
and  miles  below,  the  valley  was  spread  out  with 
spots  and  squares  of  green  crops  growing,  and 
barren  wastes  of  sand  and  sage  brush  reach- 
ing in  a  long  stretch  to  the  base  of  another 
spur  of  the  Sierras.  The  City  of  Reno  occupied 
a  little  spot  on  the  plain — from  my  mountain  it 
seemed  like  a  city  of  toy  houses  built  on  Nature's 
carpet. 

A  Hide  in  the  Flume. — Upon  my  return  I 
found  that  Mr.  Flood  and  Mr.  Fair  had  arranged 
for  a  ride  in  the  flume,  and  I  was  challenged  to 
go  with  them.  Indeed,  the  proposition  was  put 
in  the  form  of  a  challenge — they  dared  me  to  go. 

I  thought  that  if  men  worth  $25,000,000  or 
$30,000,000  apiece,  could  afford  to  risk  their  lives, 


I  could  afford  to  risk  mine,  which  was  not  worth 
half  as  much. 

So  I  accepted  the  challenge,  and  two  boats 
were  ordered.  These  were  nothing  more  than 
pig-troughs,  with  one  end  knocked  out.  The 
"  boat "  is  built,  like  the  flume,  V  shaped,  and 
fits  into  the  flume.  It  is  composed  of  three 
pieces  of  wood — two  two-inch  planks,  18  feet 
long,  and  an  end  board  which  is  nailed  about 
two  and  one-half  feet  across  the  top. 

The  forward  end  of  the  boat  was  left  open, 
the  rear  end  closed  with  a  board — against  which 
was  to  come  the  current  of  water  to  propel  us. 
Two  narrow  boards  were  placed  in  the  b.>at  for 
seats,  and  everything  was  made  ready.  Mr. 
Fair  and  myself  were  to  go  in  the  first  boat,  and 
Mr.  Flood  and  Mr.  Hereford  in  the  other. 

Mr.  Fair  thought  that  we  had  better  take  a 
third  man  with  us  who  knew  something  about 
the  flume.  There  were  probably  50  men  from 
the  mill' standing  in  the.  vicinity  waiting  to  see 
us  off,  and  when  it  was  proposed  to  take  a  third 
man,  the  question  was  asked  of  them  if  anybody 
was  willing  to  go. 

Only  one  man,  a  red-faced  carpenter,  who  takes 
more  kindly  to  whisky  than  his  bench,  volun- 
teered to  go.  Finally,  everything  was  arranged. 
Two  or  three  stout  men  held  the  boat  over  the 
flume,  and  told  us  to  jump  into  it  the  minute  it 
touched  the  water,  and  to  "  hang  on  to  our  hats." 

The  signal  of  "  all  ready  "  was  given,  the  boat 
was  launched,  and  we  jumped  into  it  as  best  we 
could,  which  was  not  very  well,  and  away  we 
went  like  the  wind. 

One  man  who  helped  to  launch  the  boat,  fell 
into  it  just  as  the  water  struck  it,  but  he  scam- 
pered out  on  the  trestle,  and  whether  he  was 
hurt  or  not,  we  could  not  wait  to  see. 

The  grade  of  the  flume  at  the  mill  is  very 
heavy,  and  the  water  rushes  through  it  at  rail- 
road speed.  The  terrors  of  that  ride  can  never 
be  blotted  from  the  memory  of  one  of  that  party. 
To  ride  upon  the  cow-catcher  of  an  engine  down 
a  steep  grade  is  simply  exhilarating,  for  you 
know  there  is  a  wide  track,  regularly  laid  upon 
a  firm  foundation,  that  there  are  wheels  grooved 
and  fitted  to  the  track,  that  there  are  trusty  men 
at  the  brakes,  and  better  than  all,  you  know  that 
the  power  that  impels  the  train  can  be  rendered 
powerless  in  an  instant  by  the  driver's  light 
touch  upon  his  lever.  But  a  flume  has  no  ele- 
ment of  safety.  In  the  first  place  the  grade  can 
not  be  regulated  as  it  can  on  a  railroad  ;  you  can 
not  go  fast  or  slow  at  pleasure ;  you  are  wholly  at 
the  mercy  of  the  water.  You  can  not  stop  ;  you 
can  not  lessen  your  speed ;  you  have  nothing  to 
hold  to;  you  have  only  to  sit  still,  shut  your 
eyes,  say  your  prayers,  take  all  the  water  that 
comes  —  filling  your  boat,  wetting  your  feet, 
drenching  you  like  a  plunge  through  the  surf, — 
and  wait  for  eternity.  It  is  all  there  is  to  hope 
for  after  you  are  launched  in  a  flume-boat.  I 


237 


(an  not  give  the  reader  a  better  idea  of  a  flume 
ride  than  to  compare  it  to  riding  down  an  old 
:fashioned  eave-trough  at  an  angle  of  45°,  hang- 
ing in  midair  without  support  of  roof  or  house, 
and  thus  shot  a  distance  of  15  miles. 

At  the  start,  we  went  at  the  rate  of  about  20 
miles  an  hour,  which  is  a  little  less  than  the  av- 
erage speed  of  a  railroad  train.  The  reader  can 
have  no  idea  of  the  speed  we  made,  until  he 
compares  it  to  a  railroad.  The  average  time  we 
made  was  30  miles  per  hour — a  mile  in  two  min- 
utes for  the  entire  distance.  This  is  greater 
than  the  average  running  time  of  railroads. 

Incidents  of  the  Ride. — The  red-faced  car- 
penter sat  in  front  of  our  boat  on  the  bottom,  as 
best  he  could.  Mr.  Fair  sat  on  a  seat  behind 
him,  and  I  sat  behind  Mr.  Fair  in  the  stern,  and 
was  of  great  service  to  him  in  keeping  the  water, 
which  broke  over  the  end-board,  from  his  back. 

There  was  a  great  deal  of  water  also  shipped 
in  the  bows  of  the  hog-trough,  and  I  know  Mr. 
Fair's  broad  shoulders  kept  me  from  many  a 
wetting  in  that  memorable  trip. 

At  the  heaviest  grade  the  water  came  in  so 
furiously  in  front,  that  it  was  impossible  to  see 
where  we  were  going,  or  what  was  ahead  of  us  ; 
but,  when  the  grade  was  light,  and  we  were  go- 
ing at  a  three  or  four-minute  pace,  the  vision  was 
very  delightful,  although  it  was  terrible. 

In  this  ride,  which  fails  me  to  describe,  I  was 
perched  up  in  a  boat  no  wider  than  a  chair,  some- 
times 20  feet  high  in  the  air,  and  with  the 
ever  varying  altitude  of  the  flume,  often  70 
feet  high.  When  the  water  would  enable  me  to 
look  ahead,  I  would  see  this  trestle  here  and 
there  for  miles,  so  small  and  narrow,  and  appar- 
ently so  fragile,  that  I  could  only  compare  it  to 
a  chalk-mark,  upon  which,  high  in  the  air,  I  was 
running  at  a  rate  unknown  upon  railroads. 

One  circumstance  during  the  trip  did  more  to 
show  me  the  terrible  rapidity  with  which  we 
dashed  through  the  flume,  than  anything  else. 
We  had  been  rushing  down  at  a  pretty  lively 
rate  of  speed,  when  the  boat  suddenly  struck 
something  in  the  bow — a  nail,  or  lodged  stick  of 
wood,  which  ought  not  to  have  been  there.  What 
was  the  result  ?  ^  The  red-faced  carpenter  was 
sent  whirling  into  the  flume,  10  feet  ahead. 
Fair  was  precipitated  on  his  face,  and  I  found  a 
soft  lodgment  on  Fair's  back. 

It  seemed  to  me  that  in  a  second's  time,  Fair, 
himself  a  powerful  man,  had  the  carpenter  by 
the  scruff  of  the  neck,  and  had  pulled  him  into 
the  boat.  I  did  not  know  that,  at  this  time, 
Fair  had  his  fingers  crushed  between  the  boat 
and  the  flume. 

But  we  sped  along ;  minutes  seemed  hours.  It 
seemed  an  hour  before  we  arrived  at  the  worst 
place  in  the  flume,  and  yet  Hereford  tells  me  it 
was  less  than  10  minutes.  The  flume  at  the  point 
alluded  to  must  have  very  near  45°  inclination. 

In  looking  out  before  we  reached  it,  I  thought 


the  only  way  to  get  to  the  bottom  was  to  fall. 
How  our  boat  kept  in  the  track  is  more  than  I 
know.  The  wind,  the  steamboat,  the  railroad 
never  went  so  fast.  I  have  been  where  the  wind 
blew  at  the  rate  of  80  miles  an  hour,  and  yet  my 
breath  was  not  taken  away.  In  the  flume,  in  the 
bad  places,  it  seemed  as  if  I  would  suffocate. 

The  first  bad  place  that  we  reached,  and  if  I 
remember  right,  it  was  the  worst,  I  got  close 
against  Fair.  I  did  not  know  that  I  would  sur- 
vive the  journey,  but  I  wanted  to  see  how  fast 
we  were  going.  So  I  lay  close  to  him  and  placed 
my  head  between  his  shoulders.  The  water  was 
coming  into  his  face,  like  the  breakers  of  the 
ocean.  When  we  went  slow,  the  breakers  came 
in  on  my  back,  but  when  the  heavy  grades  were 
reached,  the  breakers  were  in  front.  In  one  case 
Fair  shielded  me,  and  in  the  other,  I  shielded 
Fair. 

In  this  particularly  bad  place  I  allude  to,  my  de- 
sire was  to  form  some  judgment  of  the  speed  we 
were  making.  If  the  truth  must  be  spoken,  I 
was  really  scared  almost  out  of  reason ;  but  if  I 
was  on  the  way  to  eternity,  I  wanted  to  know 
exactly  how  fast  I  went;  so  I  huddled  close  to 
Fair,  and  turned  my  eyes  toward  the  hills. 
Every  object  I  placed  my  eye  on  was  gone,  be- 
fore I  could  clearly  see  what  it  was.  Mountains 
passed  like  visions  and  shadows.  It  was  with 
difficulty  that  I  could  get  my  breath.  I  felt  that 
I  did  not  weigh  an  hundred  pounds,  although 
I  knew,  in  the  sharpness  of  intellect  which  one 
has  at  such  a  moment,  that  the  scales  turned  at 
two  hundred. 

Mr.  Flood  and  Mr.  Hereford,  although  they 
started  several  minutes  later  than  we,  were  close 
upon  us.  They  were  not  so  heavily  loaded,  and 
they  had  the  full  sweep  of  the  water,  while  we 
had  it  rather  at  second  hand.  Their  boat 
finally  struck  ours  with  a  terrible  crash. 

Mr.  Flood  was  thrown  upon  his  face,  and  the 
waters  flowed  over  him,  leaving  not  a  dry  thread 
upon  him.  What  became  of  Hereford  I  do  not 
know,  except  that  when  he  reached  the  terminus 
of  the  flume,  he  was  as  wet  as  any  of  us. 

This  only  remains  to  be  said.  We  made  the 
entire  distance  in  less  time  than  a  railroad  train 
would  ordinarily  make,  and  a  portion  of  the 
time  we  went  faster  than  a  railroad  train  ever 
went. 

Fair  said  we  went  at  least  a  mile  a  minute. 
Flood  said  we  went  at  the  rate  of  100  miles  an 
hour,  and  my  deliberate  belief  is  that  we  went 
at  a  rate  that  annihilated  time  and  space.  We 
were  a  wet  lot  when  we  reached  the  terminus  of 
the  flume.  Flood  said  he  would  not  make  the 
trip  again,  for  the  whole  Consolidated  Virginia 
Mine. 

Fair  said  that  he  should  never  again  place  him- 
self on  an  equality  with  timber  and  wood,  and 
Hereford  said  he  was  sorry  that  he  ever  built  the 
flume.  As  for  myself,  I  told  the  millionaire  that 


238 


I  had  accepted  my  last  challenge.     When  we  left 
our  boats  we  were  more  dead  than  alive. 

We  had  yet  16  miles  to  drive  to  Virginia  City. 
How  we  reached  home,  the  reader  will  never 
know.  I  asked  Flood  what  I  was  to  do  with  my 
spoiled  suit  of  English  clothes.  He  bade  me 
good  night,  with  the  remark  that  my  clothes  were 
good  enough  to  give  away.  The  next  day, 
neither  Flood  nor  Fair  were  able  to  leave  their 
bed.  For  myself,  I  had  only  strength  enough 
left  to  say,  "  /  have  had  enough  of  flumes." 

RENO  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

Proceeding  from  Reno,  dii-ectly  to  San  Fran- 
cisco, the  line  of  the  railroad  is  along  the 
Truckee  River. 
The  meadows 
grow  narrower, 
and  the  mount- 
ains approach  on 
either  side,  then 
widen  again  in 
Pleasant  Valley. 

Verdi— is  234 
miles  east  of  San 
Francisco,  has 
three  stores  and  a 
planing  mill ;  de- 
rives its  impor- 
tance from  the 
lumber  trade,  and 
its  notoriety  from 
the  robbery  o  f 
the  express  and 
mail  cars,  of  an 
overland  train. 

The  scenery  is 
now  becoming 
fine ;  Crystal  Peak 
may  be  seen  on 
the  right,  and  win- 
ter moonlight 
nights  will  add 
charms  to  make 
the  views  more 
lovely  and  unique 
between  this  point 
and  Truckee. 
Then  the  mount- 
ains, denuded  at 
their  base  of  all 
timber,  and  the 
shrubs  and  stumps 
buried  in  deep 
snow  are  of  un- 
broken,  silvery 

1      .   .  1*1  ,  -I    * 


white,    while   the 

lofty  pines,  farther  up  the  steep  sides  or  on  the 
rounding  tops,  form  a  veil  of  green,  and  above 
all  irregular,  fleecy  clouds  float  fantastically  by, 
as  if  a  silvery  mist  in  the  valleys  was  rising  over 
the  dark  peaks,  mingling  light  of  many  shades, 


while  exulting  clouds,  glide  smoothly  and  silently 
along  the  azure  sky. 

The  Truckee  River  foams,  as  its  rapid  waters 
battle  with  the  rocks,  and  it  is  crossed  and  re- 
crossed  on  Howe  truss  bridges,  and  the  mount- 
ains, often  precipitous,  show  their  volcanic  origin 
in  masses  of  basaltic  rock. 

Essex,  233,  and  Mystic,  227  miles  from  San 
Francisco,  are  side  tracks  at  which  passengers 
trains  do  not  stop. 

Bronco  is  223  miles  from  San  Francisco. 
Soon  after  leaving  the  station  there  will  be 
noticed  a  post  marked  "State  Line,"  stand- 
ing on  the  one  hundred  and  twentieth  meridian 
west  of  Washington,  D.  C.,  and  this  passed, 

the  traveler  is  in 
the  Golden  State 
of  California. 

Between  Bronco 
and  Boca,  at  what 
was  Camp  18,  a 
flag  station  has 
just  been  located 
and  named  Dover. 
.Boca, — a  tele- 
graph station,  is 
218  miles  from 
San  Francisco, 
with  a  population 
of  about  150.  It 
is  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Little  Truckee 
River,  and  is  the 
Spanish  name  for 
"mouth."  Th.e 
only  business  is 
that  of  the  Boca 
Lumber  Mill  and 
Ice  Company,  and 
the  Boca  Brewery, 
the  latter  the  larg- 
est on  the  Pacific 
Coast,  and  on  ac- 
count of  the  equa- 
ble temperature, 
expected  to  pro- 
duce the  best  lager- 
beer  in'  the  world. 
About8,000tonsof 
ice  are  cut  yearly 
from  the  pond. 
The  cold  is  some- 
times severely  felt, 
the  mercury 
standing  at  22°  be- 
low zero  d  uri  ng  the 
winter  of  1875-6. 


SNOW  SHEDS  ACROSS  THE  SIERRAS. 

Prosper  Creek — is  216  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco at  the  mouth  of  a  creek  of  the  same  name, 
called  from  a  hotel  keeper  in  early  days.  It  is  a 
flag  station,  and  the  terminus  of  a  flume  for  sev- 
eral milling  stations,  and  the  ice-field  for  two 


239 


companies  that  supply  San  Francisco.     Continu- 
ing west  3.3  miles,  we  reach 

froctor's, — 212  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
but  trains  do  not  stop.  On  the  left  will  be 
noticed  a  large  tract  of  flat  land  covered  with 
timber,  or  stumps,  and  a  ranche  or  two.  Across 
this  and  over  the  range  of  hills  beyond,  lies 
Lake  Tahoe,  but  keeping  to  the  river,  3.2  miles 
from  Proctor's,  we  reach 

Truckee, — 209  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
the  dividing  line  between  the  Truckee  and 
Sacramento  divisions  of  the  railroad,  with 
a  roundhouse  for  24  engines.  It  has  one 
weekly  newspaper,  the  Republican,  and  is  the 
most  import- 
ant town  in 
the  Sierras,  on 
account  of  the 
business  done, 
as  a  summer 
resort,  and  be- 
cause of  its 
convenience  to 
other  favorite 
resorts.  It  is 
the  seat  of  a 
large  lumber 
trade,  and 
would  be  ben- 
efited by  the 
establishment 
of  an  exten- 
sive fire  insur- 
ance business. 
The  town  was 
burned  in 
1868,  1869, 
twice  in  1870, 
in  1874,  and 
"ChinaTown" 
in  1875. 

The  prevail- 
ing winds  are 
west,  and  in 
summer  one 
might  think 
the  great  width  of  the  street  is  designed  to  pre- 
vent fires  from  the  locomotive  sparks,  but  in 
winte'r  the  more  probable  suggestion  is  that 
it  is  for  the  convenience  of  piling  up  the  snow 
when  the  people  shovel  out  their  houses.  The 
population  is  about  2,000,  nearly  one-third  of 
which  are  Chinamen.  A  large  number  of  good 
stores  are  arranged  on  the  north  side  of  the 
street,  and  considerable  trade  carried  on  with 
Sierra  and  Pleasant  Valleys  on  the  north. 

The  Truckee  Hotel,  where  the  train,  stops, 
is  a  very  popular  resort,  the  tablp«  being 
always  supplied  in  season  •with  the  choicest 
trout  and  game.  Many  desiring  the  bene- 
fit of  mountain  air,  and  the  convenience  of 
the  railroad,  spend  their  summer  months  in 


GALLERY  IN  SNOW  SHEDS,  C.  P.   R.   R 


Truckee,   from  which  Donner  Lake  is   distant 
only  two  miles,  and  Tahoe  12. 

Stages  leave  Truckee  on  Tuesdays,  Thursdays 
and  Saturdays  for  Randolph,  28  miles,  time  four 
hours,  and  fare  $4;  Sierraville,  29  miles,  time 
four  and  one-fourth  hours,  fare  $4 ;  Sierra  City, 
60  miles,  time  ten  hours,  fare  $8 ;  Downieville, 
72  miles,  time  twelve  hours,  fare  $10;  Jamison 
City,  55  miles,  time  ten  hours,  fare  $8,  and  Eu- 
reka Mills,  58  miles,  time  ten  and  one-half  hours, 
fare  $8.  On  Mondays,Wednesdays,  and  Fridays 
for  Loyalton,  30  miles,  time  five  hours,  fare  <$4 ; 
Beckwith,  45  miles,  time  seven  and  one-half 
hours,  fare  $5. 

The  stages 
leaving  on 
Mondays, 
Wednesdays 
and  Fridays, 
are  also  the 
stages  for 
Webber  Lake, 
16  miles  north 
of  Truckee, 
and  Independ- 
ence  Lake, 
about  the 
same  distance. 
At  each  of 
these  is  a  good 
hotel. 

Webber 
Lake  is  about 
the  size  of 
Donner,  en- 
circled by 
high,  snow- 
capped  mount- 
ains, but  beau- 
tified by  a 
rim  of  f er. 
tile  meadow 
around  its 
pebbly  beach. 
"Webber 
Lake  is  one  of 
the  most  popuiar  resorts  for  trout  fishing  on 
the  coast.  The  accommodations  are  excellent, 
and  the  fish  plentiful.  It  has,  perhaps,  no  rival 
except  the  McCloud  River  and  Castle  Lake, 
near  Mount  Shasta.  The  tourist  who  stops  a 
few  days  to  sojourn  ai  Webber  will  be  amply  re- 
paid both  in  scenery  and  sport.  Stages  leave 
the  summit  daily,  passing  along  Donner  Lake  to 
Truckee,  thence  to  Tahoe  City  on  Lake  Tahoe. 
Fare  from  the  summit  to  Tahoe,  $2.50.  Truckee 
to  Tahoe,  $2 ;  John  F.  Moody,  of  the  Truckee 
Hotel,  also  runs  an  elegant  open  coach,  of  the  Kim- 
ball  Manufacturing  Company,  between  Truckee 
and  Tahoe  City,  daily,  fare  $2  ;  and  Campbell's 
stages  leave  every  morning  for  Campbell's  Hot 
Springs  on  Lake  Tahoe. 


240 


A  Snoiv-Storm  at  Truckee. — At  mid- 
night, the  mountain  peaks  stood  clear  and  white, 
with  deep  shadows  here  and  there,  and  above,  a 
cloudless  sky  ;  but,  at  daylight,  a  foot  of  new 
Sjjow  lay  upon  many  previous  snows. 

The  one-story  houses  were  hid  from  view. 
While  the  air  was  full  of  falling  flakes,  busy  men 
were  shoveling  off  the  roofs  of  their  dwellings — 
shoveling  all  the  while,  and  half  a  hundred 
Chinamen  were  loading  cars  with  snow  from  the 
railroad  track  to  throw  it  down  some  steep 
mountain  side.  Men  are  coming  in  with  their 
shoes  in  hand — not  number  thirteens,  but — thir- 
teen feet  long,  and  stand  them  up  against  the 
wall. 

These  snow- 
shoes  are  about 
six  inches  wide, 
turned  up  in 
front  like  the 
runner  of  a 
skate,  and  wax- 
ed to  make 
them  slip  easi- 
ly over  the 
snow.  Near  the 
middle  is  a 
leather  that 
laces  over  the 
instep  (a  skele- 
ton half -shoe), 
and  out  of 
which  the  foot 
will  slip  in  case 
of  a  fall  or  acci- 
dent. 

A  long  pole 
is  carried  like 
a  rope-dancer's 
to  preserve  a 
balance,  and  to 
straddle  and  sit 
upon  for  a 
brake,  when 
descend  ing  a 
hill.  They  are 
essential  to 
safety  in  these 
storms. 

As  I  watched  the  falling  snow,  nothing  could 
exceed  the  beauty.  As  it  curled  and  shot 
through  the  air,  the  mountains  were  shut  out 
with  a  gauzy  veil  and  darker  mists.  Now  and 
then  I  caught  a  glimpse  of  a  clump  of  pines  on 
the  mountain  side,  indistinct  and  gray  in  shadow, 
and  as  the  fitful  snow  favored  the  straining  eye, 
the  long  white  boughs  seemed  bending  as  if  con- 
scious of  the  enormous  weight  that  threatened 
every  living  thing. 

When  the  clouds  broke  suddenly  away,  a  flood 
of  golden  light  leaped  from  hill  to  hill.  The  tall 
pines,  partly  green,  but  now  like  pyramids  of 


MARY'S  LAKE,  MIRROK  VIEW. 


snow,  lift  their  heads  above  the  mountain  sides. 
But  in  less  than  fifteen  minutes  after  the  first 
sight  of  the  sun,  a  long  stratum  of  dark  cloud 
came  down  the  mountain,  and  the  snow  falls 
thicker  and  faster  than  ever.  Its  hard  crystals 
were  driven  so  furiously  as  to  make  one's  cheeks 
burn,  and  give  exquisite  torture  to  the  eyelids. 
I  looked  upon  the  rapid  river,  and  around  its 
snow-capped  rocks  the  water  played  in  foaming 
cascades. 

The  enormous  snow-plows  at  length  grappled 
with  this  monster  of  the  elements. 

From  east  and  west  came  reports  of  ava- 
lanches, snow  sheds  down,  trains  wrecked  and 
snow-bound,  and  soon  the  telegraph  refused  to 

do  its  bidding. 
The  ponder- 
ous engines 
were  thrown 
from  the  rails 
in  the  streets, 
before  our  eyes, 
by  the  hard 
crystals  which 
they  crushed 
into  glacier-like 
ice.  With  five 
of  them  behind 
the  largest 
snow-plow  o  n 
the  road,  we 
started  toward 
the  summit. 
The  snow  flew 
and  even 
the  ground 
trembled,  and 
every  piece  of 
the  short  snow 
sheds  was  wel- 
comed with  joy 
and  misgiving. 
The  blinding 
snow,  I  thought, 
will  cease  to 
fly,  but  suppose 
that,  when 
crushed  into  ice 
like  granite,  it 
lifts  the  ponderous  plow  of  30  tons,  or  that  we  go 
crashing  into  the  shed  prostrate  beneath  twenty 
or  forty  feet  of  snow ;  or  that  an  avalanche  has 
come  down  and  our  way  lies  through  the  tangled 
trunks  of  these  huge  Sierra  pines ;  five  boilers 
behind  that  may  soon  be  on  top  of  us. 

Never  before  did  I  realize  the  need  of  the 
snow  sheds,  but  I  often  rebelled  against  the  shut- 
ting out  of  nature's  mountain  charms  from  the 
weary  or  unoccupied  traveler. 

Let  the  discontented  not  forget  that  five  feet 
of  snow  may  fall  in  one  day ;  that  twenty  and 
thirty  feet  may  lie  all  over  the  ground  at  one 


241 


TUNNEL  NO.  12,  STRONG'S  CANON. 


time ;  that  forty  and  fifty  feet  are  sometimes  to 
be  seen,  where  the  road-bed  is  secure  baneath  it, 
and  that  the  canons  often  contain  a  hundred 
feet. 

These  -capacious  reservoirs  are  the  pledge  of 
summer  fruitful  ness.  A  winter  scene  in  these 
Sierras  without  even  the  sight  of  unfriendly 
bruin,  will  beget  a  fondness  for  the  snow  sheds 
that  the  summer  tourist  cannot  imagine,  and  a 
better  appreciation  of  the  boldness  and  daring 
of  the  men  who  brare  the  hardships  of  these 
mountain  storms,  and  peril  their  lives  at  every 
step  for  other's  safety.  Day  and  night  I  saw 
the  servants  of  the  public,  from  highest  to  low- 
est, haggard  and  worn,  yet  never  ceasing  in  their 
battle  against  the  tremendous  storm,  and  was 
overwhelmed  thinking  of  our  indebtedness  to 
their  energy,  skill  and  endurance,  as  well  as  by 
viewing  the  wonderful  works  of  God.  "The 
feeding  of  the  rivers  and  the  purifying  of  the 
winds  are  the  least  of  the  services  appointed  to 
the  hills.  To  fill  the  thirst  of  the  human  heart 
with  the  beauty  of  God's  working,  to  startle  its 
lethargy  with  the  deep  and  pure  agitation  of 
astonishment  are  their  higher  missions." 

Snow  Sheds. — The  snow  sheds,  so  important 


to  winter  travel,  are  found  east  of  Strong's  Canon 
Station,  and  west  of  Emigrant  Gap,  wherever 
there  is  no  side  hill,  and  the  removal  of  the  snow 
would  be  difficult  for  the  plow.  Between  these 
two  stations,  they  are  without  break,  except  for 
tunnels  and  bridges.  In  all,  there  are  about  40 
miles  of  the  sheds. 

They  are  of  two  kinds,  the  flat  roof,  built  to 
hold  the  weight  of  25  or  30  feet  of  snow,  or  slide 
it  down  the  mountain  side,  and  those  with  the 
pitched  or  steep  roof,  and  "  batter  brace."  The 
massiveness  of  the  huge  pine  trunks,  or  sawed 
timbers,  twelve  or  sixteen  inches  on  a  side,  may 
be  easily  seen  from  the  cars.  The  cost  per  mile 
varied  from  $8,000  to  $10,000,  and  where  it  was 
necessary  to  build  heavy  retaining  walls  of  ma- 
sonry, some  dry  and  some  cement  walls,  the  cost 
was  at  the  rate  of  $30,000  per  mile.  Sometimes 
the  heavy  square  timbers  are  bolted  to  the  solid 
ledge,  that  avalanches  may  be  carried  by,  and 
the  sheds  remain. 

At  a  distance  the  sheds  look  small,  but  they 
are  high  enough  to  insure  the  safety  of  break* 
men  who  pass  over  the  tops  of  the  freight  cars. 

During  the  summer  months  when  everything 
is  sun-scorched,  the  destruction  of  the  sheds  by 


242 


fire  is  often  imminent,  and  great  loss  has  been 
suffered  in  this  way.  To  prevent  fires,  the 
greatest  precaution  is  used,  and  the  most 
effective  measures  adopted  to  extinguish  a  con- 
flagration. At  short  intervals,  both  sides  and 
roof  are  of  corrugated  iron  to  stop  the  progress  of 
a  fire,  and  the  whole  line  from  Strong's  Canon  to 
Emigrant  Gap,  provided  with  automatic  fire- 
alarms,  telegraphing  the  place  of  danger,  and  at 
the  summit  is  a  train  with  tanks,  and  the  engine 
ready  to  become  instantly  a  well-equipped  fire- 
brigade. 

Near  Truckee  the  railroad  leaves  the  river 
which  turns  to  the  south,  and  it  follows  Donner 
Creek,  the  outlet  of  Donner  Lake,  for  a  short  dis- 
tance and  then  turns  up  the  great  and  magnifi- 
cent canon  of  Cold  Stream  Creek,  in  a  direction 
nearly  south-west.  Before  leaving  Donner 
Creek,  we  are  hard  by 

"  Starvation  Carnp,"  where  in  the  winter  of 
1846-7  a  company  of  eighty-two  persons,  coming 
to  California,  were  overtaken  by  snow,  lost  their 
cattle,  and  were  reduced  to  such  straits  that 
many  survivors  fed  on  the  remains  of  their 
starved  companions.  The  company  comprised 
eighty-two  persons,  of  whom  thirty-two  were 
females,  a  large  proportion  of  the  whole  being 
children.  Thirty-six  perished,  of  whom  twenty- 
six  were  males.  Of  a  party  of  thirteen,  who 
went  out  for  help,  ten  perished.  Relief  was  sent 
to  the  company,  but  it  was  impossible  to  save 
all.  Mrs.  Donner,  when  the  alternative  was 
presented  her,  early  in  March,  of  leaving  her 
husband,  and  going  away  with  her  children,  or 
remaining  with  him  and  soon  perishing,  refused 
to  abandon  him,  and  when,  in  April,  the  spot 
was  visited  again,  his  body  was  found  carefully 
dressed  and  laid  out  by  her.  How  long  she  sur- 
vived him  is  not  known.  The  sufferings  of  this 
party  were  insignificant  in  amount  when  com- 
pared with  the  whole  aggregate  of  misery  en- 
dured in  the  early  peopling  of  California  by  the 
Overland,  the  Cape  Horn,  and  the  Panama  Route, 
but  no  other  tale  connected  with  these  early  days 
is  so  harrowing  in  its  details  as  this,  and  no  one 
thinking  of  Donner  Lake,  turns  from  its  quiet 
and  beauty,  to  think  of  this  tragedy  that  gave  it 
its  name,  without  a  shudder. 

The  old  road  across  the  mountains  to  Sutter's 
Fort,  followed  up  the  Cold  Stream,  where  snows 
no  longer  forbid  a  passage  across  the  dangerous 
summits. 

Along  and  rounding  this  Cold  Stream  Canon 
are  the  finest  views  on  the  eastern  aide  of  the 
Sierras,  not  shut  out  by  snow  sheds  from  the 
traveler  by  rail.  The  canon  is  wide  and  long, 
and  far  above  and  across,  the  road-bed  is  cut  on 
the  steep  mountain  side,  and  then  protected  by 
long  snow  sheds  till  at  last  it  enters  tunnel  No.  13. 
Looking  up  the  canon,  on  the  right,  soon  after 
entering,  or  back,  after  the  Horse-Shoe  Curve 
has  been  made,  a  long  line  of  purple  pyramids 


and  jagged  precipices  surround  the  valley,  and  if 
the  road  is  not  at  the  bottom  of  everything,  the 
enormous  face  of  the  mountain  seems  to  forbid 
the  most  daring  attempt  to  ascend.  But  upward 
— still  looking  back  to  the  valley  of  the  Truckee 
far  below,  and  the  train  reaches 

Strong's  Canon, — 203  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, which  is  a  side  track,  telegraph  office  and 
turn-table,  for  snow-plows,  principally.  Cold 
Stream  must  not  be  confounded  with  Strong's 
Canon,  for  the  latter  will  not  be  reached  till  the 
train  has  passed  half-way  along  the  lofty  wall  of 
Donner  Lake.  The  station  was  originally  a* 
Strong's  Canon,  but  was  afterward  moved  to  tun- 
nel No.  13,  the  point  where  the  road  leaves  Cold 
Stream  Canon. 

Donner  Lake — the  gem  of  the  Sierras,  is  just 
below,  and  the  vigilant  eye  will  be  rewarded  by 
a  sight  of  it  through  the  observation  holes  in 
the  snow  sheds,  and  when  the  train  crosses  a 
bridge  in  doubling  Strong's  Canon.  After  leav- 
ing this  Canon,  the  road-bed  is  cut  out  of  rough, 
rugged,  granite  rocks  ;  and  before  the  summit  is 
reached,  it  has  passed  through  the  seventh  tun- 
nel from  Cold  Stream.  These  are  almost  indis- 
tinguishable from  the  sombre  snow  sheds,  and 
Nos.  11  and  12  and  likewise  7  and  8,  are  almost 
continuous.  The  longest  are  Nos.  13  and  6,  the 
former  870  feet,  and  the  latter,  1,659  feet,  and 
the  longest  on  the  line  of  the  road.  Emerging 
from  tunnel  No.  6,  the 

Summit,- 195  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
announced,  and  the  train  is  ready  to  descend 
rapidly  to  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento.  It  is  a 
day  and  night  telegraph  station,  and  has  an  alti- 
tude of  7,017  feet— 119.8  feet  above  Truckee— 
and  is  the  highest  point  on  the  line  of  the  road. 
Many  of  the  surrounding  peaks  are  two  and 
three  thousand  feet  higher. 

The  Summit  House  is  the  largest  hotel  along 
the  line  of  the  road,  accommodates  150  guests, 
and  is  one  of  the  most  popular  in  the  Sierras. 

One  who  lets  the  train  go  by,  to  climb  to 
the  top  of  the  ridge  through  which  the  tunnel 
leads,  or  some  higher  peak,  will  never  be  sorry, 
for  an  enchanting  panorama  will  be  unrolled. 

Summit  Valley,  with  its  bright  pastures,  and 
warm  with  life,  while  it  touches  bleak  rocks,  and 
receives  the  shade  of  the  inhospitable  pine  or 
the  drip  of  the  snow — one  of  the  loveliest  val- 
leys at  such  an  altitude — lies  toward  the  setting 
sun.  In  the  rim  that  shuts  out  the  south-west 
wind,  towers  the  Devil's  Peak,  a  bold  cliff  rising 
from  out  of  wild  surroundings ;  and  following 
the  ridge  eastward  with  the  eye,  and  around 
toward  the  point  of  vision,  there  are  prominent, 
Old  Man's  Peak,  just  across  the  valley,  sharp- 
ened by  the  wintry  storms  of  his  long  life,  and 
on  the  main  ridge,  Mount  Lincoln,  9,200  feet  high, 
and  Donner  Peak,  2,000  feet  above  the  railroad, 
and  3,200  above  the  lake  that  sleeps  in  quiet 
beauty  at  its  base;  and  across  the  railroad 


243 


1 

§    i 


244 


the  peak  from  which  Biersf,adt  sketched  the 
"  Gem "  beneath.  Then  there  are  a  thousand 
other  charms  in  the  vast  heights  above,  and 
vast  depths  below ;  in  contrasts  of  light  and 
shade,  form  and  color;  in  mists  hanging  over 
the  lake,  and  clouds  clinging  to  the  peaks ;  in 
the  twilight  deepening  into  darkness,  or  colossal 
pyres,  kindled  by  the  coining  sun,  and  going  out 
in  the  clear  light  of  the  day  ;  or,  in  the  gloom  of 
the  forest  mingled  with  the  living  silver  of  the 
moonlit  lake. 

The  peaks 
may  be  ascend- 
ed—  some  with 
difficulty,  and 
some  with  mod- 
erate exertion — 
but  p3rsons  of 
feeble  constitu- 
tion may  enjoy 
all  the  varied 
charms. 

The  lake  is  of 
easy  access,  and 
has  on  its  banks 
a  hotel  for  tour- 
ists. The  dis- 
tance to  the  lake 
by  the  carriage 
road  is  2  1-2 
miles,  and 
Truckee  9  miles. 
The  summit  di- 
vides the  waters 
that  flow  east 
and  sink  amid 
desert  sands, 
from  those  that 
flow  west  into 
the  Sacrameiito, 
river. 

Summit 
Valley— 2^ 
miles  long  and 
one  mile  wide, 
heads  in  the 
high  peaks 
south  of  the  hotel.  It  has  pasturage  during 
the  summer  for  many  cattle,  and  its  springs  and 
abundance  of  products  fresh  from  the  dairy 
make  it  a  delightful  place  for  camping  out. 
Its  waters  are  the  source  of  the  South  Fork  of 
the  South  Yuba  Eiver.  The  railroad  descends 
to  the  foot  of  this  valley,  keeping  the  divide  on 
the  north  to  the  right,  then,  about  three  miles 
from  the  summit,  crosses  the  most  southerly 
branch  of  the  Yuba.  A  few  yards  before  the 
crossing  is  a  summer  flag  station,  or 

Soda  Springs  Station — 192  miles  from 
San  Francisco.  These  springs  are  situated  on 
tho  south  side  of  the  high  ridge  that  forms 
the  southern  wall  of  Summit  Valley,  and 


LAKE  ANGELIXE. 


are  in  the  headwaters  of  the  American  River. 
They  are  numerous,  flow  abundantly,  and  are 
highly  medicinal.  Stages  run  to  them  both 
from  the  summit,  and  irom  Soda  Station,  and 
the  ride  is  not  surpassed,  if  equaled,  by  anv  in 
the  Sierras  north  of  Yosemite,  in  the  number 
and  beauty  of  the  fine  views  it  affords. 

The  hotel  at  the  Springs  is  not  an  imposing 
structure,  but  it  is  kept  in  first-class  style  and  is 
a  favorite  resort. 

The  dividing  ridge,  which  the  railroad  now 

follows,  is  on  the 
left,  and  on  the 
right  are  great 
ridges  and  can- 
ons, which  gath- 
er more  water 
for  the  Yuba. 
Their  extent 
alone  impresses 
the  beholder 
with  awe,  but 
the  snow  sheds 
allow  no  satis- 
factory view. 

The  first  reg- 
ular  station 
after  leaving  the 
summit  is  5.8 
miles  west, 
called 

Cascade, — 
189  miles  from 
San  Francisco. 
The  vertical  de- 
scent from  the 
summit  to  this 
point  is  498  feet, 
and  nothing 
here  will  check 
one's  readiness 
to  descend  far- 
ther, for  it  is 
only  a  signal 
station,  and 
there  are  none 
to  signal,  ex- 
cept such  as  are  employed  on  the  road. 

South  of  the  station  are  Kidd's  Lakes,  empty- 
ing into  the  South  Branch  of  the  South  Yuba 
through  the  Upper  and  Lower  Cascade  Ravines. 
The  bridges  over  the  ravines  will  be  a  grateful 
but  short-lived  relief  from  the  restraint  of  the 
snow  sheds.  The  time  in  passing  is  too  short  to 
take  in  the  charms  of  the  water-falls  in  summer, 
or  the  ice-clad  rocks  in  winter,  and  the  extended 
view  on  the  right. 

Kidd's  Lakes  are  dammed  so  as  to  impound  the 
water  during  the  winter  and  spring,  and  when 
the  dry  season  approaches,  it  is  let  out  over  the 
Cascades  into  the  river  and  carried,  eventually,  to 
Dutch  Flat. 


245 


SCENERY  OF  THE  SIERRAS,  NEAR  SUMMIT. 


There  is  a  great  spur,  called  "  Crockers " 
thrown  out  in  this  ridge,  through  which  the 
road  passes  in  tunnel  No.  5,  and  thence  along 
Stanford  Bluffs  to 

Tamarack, — 185  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
another  signal  station.  A  stop  will  not  be 
likely,  unless  to  meet  or  pass  a  freight  train.  A 
small  saw-mill  is  in  operation  during  part  of  the 
year.  Just  below  Tamarack,  the  Yuba  has  worn 
a  large  gorge,  and  the  bold  bluffs,  which  unfor- 
tunately are  below  the  road-bed,  have  been  called 
"  New  Hampshire  Rocks,"  and  the  name  may 
well  suggest  that  the  Granite  State  -will  soon 
cease  to  be  regarded  as  the  "  Switzerland  of 
America." 

The  road  continues  on  the  north  or  Yuba  side 
of  the  divide,  between  the  waters  of  the  Yuba 
and  American  Rivers ;  and  between  Tamarack 
and  Cisco,  Red  Spur  and  Trap  Spur  are  passed 
by  tunnels  No.  4  and  No.  3.  Three  and  a  half 
miles  from  Tamarack  is 

Cisco, — 182  miles  from  San  Francisco,  a  day 
and  night  telegraph  station,  wi^i  an  elevation 
of  5,939  feet.  It  was  named  after  John  J.  Cisco, 
the  sterling,  assistant  tr01"<urer  of  the  United 


States,  at  New  York  City,  during  the  late  civil 
war.  Cisco  was  for  a  year  and  a  half  the  ter- 
minus of  the  road,  and  lively  with  business  for 
the  construction  of  the  road,  and  for  Nevada. 
Jt  had  a  population  of  7,000,  and  some  dwellings 
erected  at  a  cost  of  $5,000 ;  large  warehouses,  and 
all  the  intensity  of  frontier  life.  After  the  re- 
moval of  the  terminus  to  Truckee,  the  deserted 
buildings  were  either  taken  down  and  removed 
or  went  fast  to  decay,  until  their  destruction  was 
hastened  by  a  fire  that  left  nothing  for  the 
morning  sun  to  rise  upon,  but  the  freight  house 
with  a  platform  1,000  feet  long,  standing  alone 
amid  the  ashes  and  surrounding  forests. 

From  Cisco  there  is  a  beautiful  view  on  the 
north,  with  Red  Mountain  in  the  distance. 
Just  back  of  Red  Mountain  is  the  Old  Man 
Mountain,  but  hid  from  view  until  the  train  de- 
scends a  few  miles  farther. 

To  detect  in  this  any  sharp  or  remote  outline 
of  the  human  profile,  wrought  in  colossal  propor- 
tion by  the  hand  that  moulded  and  chiseled  the 
infinite  shapes  of  nature,  is  probably  beyond 
the  keenness  of  any  Yankee. 

Leaving  Cisco,  the  railroad  continues  on  the 


247 


north  side  of  the  divide,  with  the  canons  of  the 
many  streams  that  form  the  Yuba  on  the  right, 
and  a  deep  valley  near  by  through  hard  por- 

gtiyry,  passing  Black  Butte  on  the  left,  crossing 
utte  Canon,  around  Hopkins'  Bluffs  and  Mil- 
ler's Bluffs,  eight  and  a  half  miles  to 

Emigrant  Gap, — 173  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, another  day  and  night  telegraph  station,  is 
almost  one  vertical  mile  above  San  Francisco, 
the  altitude  being  5,221  feet.  Just  before 
reaching  this  station,  the  Yuba  turns  abruptly 
to  the  north,  and  just  west  of  the  turning  place, 
with  an  elevation  barely  perceptible  to  one  rush- 
ing by,  Bear  River  heads  in  a  valley  of  the 
same  name,  clothed  in  summer  with  a  delightful 
green.  At  Emigrant  Gap  the  divide  is  crossed 
by  means  of  a  tunnel,  and  the  old  Emigrant 
Road  crossed  the  Gap  here,  and  is  crossed  by 
the  railroad,  just  a  few  rods  west  of  the  tunnel. 
Here  the  old  emigrants  let  their  wagons  down 
the  steep  mountain  side  by  ropes,  with  which  a 
turn  or  two  were  taken  around  the  trees  at  the 
Gap.  How  much  better  are  iron  rails  than  rug- 
ged rocks,  and  atmospheric  brakes  than  treach- 
erous cords  !  On  the  right  we  have  now  the 
headwaters  of  the  Bear  Kiver,  but  of  the  valley 
one  can  have  only  a  glimpse  except  by  ascend- 
ing the  rocks  above  the  railroad.  Once  over  the 
divide,  there  are  on  the  left  the  headwaters  of  a 
branch  of  the  North  Fork  of  the  American  Kiver, 
and  the  road  follows  Wilson's  Bavine,  and  the 
valley  of  the  same  name  is  in  sight  for  some  dis- 
tance. A  number  of  little  ravines  may  be  noticed 
emptying  in  Wilson's,  the  largest  of  which,  called 
"  Sailor's, "  is  crossed  where  the  road  doubles 
Lost  Camp  Spur,  from  which  one  may  look  across 
the  ravine  and  see  tunnel  No.  1  on  Grizzly  Hill. 

Blue  Canon — 168  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
at  the  crossing  of  which,  5. 2  miles  from  Emi- 
grant Gap,  are  the  hotel,  a  store,  a  shipping 
point  for  six  saw  mills,  and  a  day  and  night  tele- 
graph station.  The  elevation  is  now  4,693  feet. 
The  snow  sheds  are  unfrequent  and  shorter,  and 
the  traveler  will  become  more  interested  in  the 
scenery  now  growing  most  wonderfully,  until 
it  becomes  the  grandest  on  the  line  of  the  road 
across  the  Continent.  A  little  mining  is  carried 
on  in  Blue  Canon,  but  on  too  small  a  scale  to 
interest  a  stranger.  Blue  Canon  is  the  limit  of 
the  snow  which  remains  during  the  winter.  It 
is  noted  for  the  best  water  on  the  mountains — 
water  so  esteemed  by  the  railroad  men  that  it  is 
carried  to  supply  their  shops  at  Kocklin  and 
Sacramento.  Flumes  and  ditches  are  almost 
constantly  in  sight.  The  canon  grows  deep  so 
rapidly  and  seems  to  fall  away  from  the  railroad, 
so  that  one  instinctively  wonders  how  he  is  to  get 
down  so  far.  This  portion  of  the  railroad  has 
the  steepest  grade  on  the  whole  line — 116  feet 
to  the  mile. 

China  Ranch. — About  two  miles  west  of 
Blue  Canon,  a  side  track  is  passed  where  the 


close-tilling  Celestial  gardened  prior  to  and  at 
the  location  of  the  road — and  the  fact  lingers  in 
the  name,  China  Ranche.  Mountains  may  be 
seen  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  After  passing 
the  ranche,  there  is  a  very  deep  cut  through 
Prospect  Hill,  the  name  suggesting  the  loss  of 
the  passenger  in  the  cut.  On  the  west  side  of 
Prospect  Hill  is  Little  Blue  Canon,  where  Shady 
Run,  a  pretty  little  creek,  is  seen  on  the  left.  It 
was  so  named  by  engineer  Guppy  at  the  time 
the  road  was  located,  in  honor  of  the  good  camp- 
ing ground  it  afforded. 

Shady  Run, — 212  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, is  a  side  track,  but  not  even  a  flag-station, 
4.7  miles  from  Blue  Canon.  Near  it  the  railroad 
passes  around  Trail  Spur,  and,  on  the  left  is  one 
of  the  finest  views  on  the  line  of  the  road,  the 
junction  of  Blue  Canon  Creek  and  the  North 
Fork  of  the  American  River ;  there  the  great 
chasm,  worn  by  glaciers  to  a  depth  of  about 
2,000  feet,  extending  a  mile  to  the  junction  of 
the  South  Branch,  the  precipitous  sides  narrow- 
ing to  the  water's  edge  and  forbidding  ascent 
even  on  foot,  through  the  narrow  gorge — and 
mountain  upon  mountain,  back  toward  the  snow 
peaks  left  an  hour  and  a  half  ago — and  east- 
ward for  fifty  or  more  miles,  till  they  are  min- 
gled in  the  ey*e  as  the  stars  of  the  milky  way,  add 
to  the  impressiveness  of  the  view  which  is  en- 
chanced  by  its  suddentiess. 

Just  west  of  Trail  Spur,  and  after  passing 
Serpentine  Ravine,  one  may  look  down  the  Great 
American  Canon  into  Green  Valley  and  Giant's 
Gap,  beyond.  The  view  is  sublime,  with  the 
bright  emerald  green  of  the  pastures ;  the  ter- 
raced and  rounded,  black,  gloomy  forests,  over- 

Alta — 158  miles  from  San  Francisco;  3,607 
feet  elevation.  This  is  the  first  point  reached 
by  the  west-bound  traveler  from  which  there 
are  two  passenger  trains  daily  to  San  Francisco. 
The  "  Alta  Passenger  "  leaves  Alta  every  morn- 
ing at  7 :40,  and  connects  at  Boseville  Junction 
with  the  Oregon  Express,  and  reaches  Sacra- 
mento at  11:10  A.  M.,  and  continues  to  San 
Francisco  via  the  Western  Pacific  Railroad — 
the  old  overland  route  through  Stockton,  Liver- 
more  and  Niles — arriving  at  San  Francisco  at 
5:35  P.  M.  This  route  is  49.88  miles  longer  than 
the  route  via  Benecia.  Here  are  several  stores 
and  the  center  of  considerable  lumber  trade.  Its 
population  does  not  exceed  a  hundred.  It  is  a  day 
telegraph  station,  4.8  miles  from  Shady  Run. 
At  one  time  soap-root,  a  bulb,  growing  like  the 
stub  of  a  coarse,  brown  mohair  switch,  just 
emerging  from  the  ground,  was  gathered  by  the 
Chinamen.  It  has  strong  alkaline  properties, 
and  is  used  for  washing  and  for  genuine  hair 
mattresses.  It  has  become  too  scarce  to  be  gath- 
ered here  with  profit  by  even  the  keen,  moon- 
eyed  Celestial. 

Below  Alta  we  strike  the  slope  of  Bear  River, 
and  on  this  water-shed  we  travel,  winding  among 


249 


hills,  until  we  near  Cape  Horn.     But  only  1.9 
miles  from  Alta,  we  arrive  at 

Dutch  Flat,— 157  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
our  approach  to  which  is  heralded  by  the  unmis- 
takable evidences  of  mining,  seen  in  the  up- 
turned face  of  the  country. 

The  water  that  came  down  in  advance  of  the 
cars  from  Summit  Valley  and  Kidd's  Lakes  is  now 
utilized.  It  was  gathered  from  the  East  Fork  of 
the  American  River,  from  Monumental  Canon  and 
Wilson's  Ravine,  and  carried  in  Bradley's  ditch 
around  Lost  Camp  Spur  and  emptied  into  Blue 
Canon,  near  Blue  Canon  Station,  and  taken  up 
again  at  the  station  and  carried  by  ditches  and 
fluims  to  Fort  Point,  where  the  railroad  crosses 
it,  and  soon  after  one  of  the  spurs  is  tunneled  in 
two  places  to  find  an  easy  grade,  but.  it  cannot 
descend  safely  as  fast  as  the  cars,  and  at  Pros- 
pect Hill  passas  through  a  tunnel  100  feet  above 
the  railroad,  and  is  then  emptied  into  Canon 
Creek,  from  which  it  is  again  taken  up  and  dis- 
tributed by  flumes  or  great  iron  pipes  to  the 
mines  we  overlook  at  Dutch  Flat  and  Gold  Run. 
There  are  three  separate  ditches,  the  "Cedar 
Creek,"  an  English  company,  bringing  water 
from  the  American  River;  the  "Miner's  Mining 
and  Ditch  Company,"  with  water  from  Bear 
River,  and  the  "  Yuba  Ditch  Company."  The 
first  two  companies  o\vn  and  work  mines,  and 
the  latter  derives  all  its  revenue  from  the  sale  of 
water.  For  hydraulic  mining,  this  is  one  of  the 
most  important  regions  in  the  State. 

Dutch  Flat,  or  German  Level,  has  an  altitude 
of  3,395  feet.  It  is  an  old  town,  the  mining 
having  begun  in  1851.  It  was  once  more  largely 
populated  than  now,  yet  it  boasts  1,500  inhab- 
itants. It  has  a  Methodist  and  a  Congregational 
Church,  and  the  finest  school-house  in  the  in- 
terior of  the  State.  It  has  a  tri-weekly  stage  to 
Nevada  City,  16  miles,  leaving  every  Monday, 
Wednesday  and  Friday  morning.  The  time  is 
three  hours  and  the  fare  f  J.OO.  The  route  passes 
through  the  towns  of  Little  York,  2  1-2  miles, 
You  Bat,  6  miles,  and  Red  Dog,  8  miles  from 
Dutch  Flat,  liis  town  is  built  at  the  head  of 
Dutch  Flat  Canon,  and  is  very  irregular  and 
hilly.  It  has  good  stores,  hotels  and  restaurants, 
and  an  enterprising  semi-weekly  newspaper. 

Placer  Mining. — Where  the  earth-carrying 
gold  could  be  easily  dug,  and  water  was  of  ready 
access,  and  the  diggings  were  rich  ennur/h,  the 
washing  out  was  done  by  hand,  and  this  form  of 
gold  hunting  was  called  placer  mining.  It  re- 
quired no  capital  except  the  simple  tools  and  im- 
plemsnts  used  in  digging  and  washing,  with  food 
enough  to  keep  one  till  some  return  from  labor 
could  be  obtained.  Several  hundred  million 
dollars  value  of  gold  were  thus  washed  out  of 
the  surface  soil  of  California  in  early  years.  Lit- 
tle ground  remains  that  can  be  made  to  pay  by 
this  process,  and  it  is  almost  a  thing  of  the  past. 
It  naturally  led,  however,  to  hydraulic  mining 


which  is  as  flourishing  as  ever,  and  promises 
to  continue  so  for  many  years..  Placer  miners 
came  occasionally  upon  ground  which,  though 
carrying  gold,  was  not  rich  enough  to  pay  if 
worked  by  hand,  but  would  pay  handsomely 
when  handled  on  a  large  scale.  The  device  was 
soon  adopted  of  providing  flumes  in  place  of 
cradles  and  rockers.  Into  these  flumes  a  stream 
was  turned  and  the  earth  shoveled  in.  Large 
quantities  could  thus  be  washed  as  easily  as 
small  amounts  had  been  before. 

The  gold  in  each  case,  except  that  portion 
which  was  impalpably  fine,  and  would  even  float 
on  water,  was  detained  by  riffles  on  the  bottom 
of  the  rocker,  or  the  flume,  and  gathered  up  from 
time  to  time.  It  was  found  eventually  that 
large  banks  sometimes  hundreds  of  feet  high, 
were  rich  enough  in  gold  to  pay  for  working, 
and  the  device  was  next  adopted  of  directing  a 
stream  against  them  to  wash  them  down.  Stiff 
beds  of  cement  have  been  found  rich  in  gold, 
but  too  stiff  to  yield  to  any  except  a  mighty 
force.  Higher  heads  of  water  have  been  sought, 
until  even  500  ^et  of  head  have  been  employed, 
the  usual' range  being  from  50  feet  to  300,  and  a 
force  obtained  which  nothing  can  resist.  Such 
a  stream  issuing  from  a  six-inch  nozzle,  comes 
out  as  solidto  Ike  touch  as  ice,  the  toughest  bed  of 
cement  crumbles  before  it,  and  boulders  weigh- 
ing tons  are  toss-d  about  as  lightly  as  pebbles. 
A  man  struck  by  such  a  stream  would  never 
know  what  hurt  him.  The  strongest  iron  pipe 
is  required  to  carry  the  water  to  the  nozzle, 
through  which  it  is  played.  No  hose  can  be 
made  strong  enough  to  bear  the  pressure,  and 
the  directing  of  the  stream  to  the  point  desired 
is  effected  by  two  iron  jointed  pipes,  moving  in 
planes  at  right  angles  to  each  other,  and  thus 
securing  a  sweep  in  every  direction.  The 
amount  of  the  force  exerted  by  such  a  stream  as 
has  been  described,  it  is  impossible  to  estimate 
except  approximately,  but  1,300  pounds  to  the 
inch  is  not  too  high.  To  provide  the  water  re- 
quired where  "  hydraulicking  "  is  done  on  a  large 
scale,  streams  are  brought  long  distances. 

The  price  for  selling  water  is  graduated  by 
the  size  9f  the  opening  through  which  it  is  de- 
livered, usually  under  six  inches  pressure.  Prac- 
tically it  is  found  that  there  is  in  California, 
more  gold  than  water,  for  there  are  many  places 
rich  in  gold,  which  cannot  be  worked  for  lack  of 
water. 

The  season  varies  in  length,  according  to  the 
situation  and  the  rain-fall,  but  nowhere  is  it  pos- 
sible to  work  the  whole  year,  and  probably  on  an 
average  the  active  season  does  not  exceed  seven 
or  eight  months.  There  is  one  feature  connected 
with  hydraulic  mining  which  no  one  can  contem- 
plate without  regret.  It  leaves  desolation  be- 
hind it  in  the  form  of  heaps  of  shapeless  gravel 
and  boulders,  which  must  lie  for  ages  before  blos- 
soming again  with  verdure.  One  of  the  difficult 


250 


GIANT'S  GAP,  AMERICAN  RIVER  CANON. 

BY  THOMAS  MOBAN. 


251 


problems  in  hydraulicking  is  to  find  room  for  the 
debris  which  the  streams,  used  in  washing  down 
banks  of  earth,  are  constantly  carrying  along  with 
them.  The  beds  of  streams  have  been  filled  up 
in  some  parts  of  the  State  so  as  to  increase 
greatly  the  exposure  of  the  cultivated  regions  be- 
low the  mining  districts  to  inundation  and  ruin. 
Legislation  has  been  sought  by  the  farmers  to 
protect  their  interests,  but  the  effort  was  opposed 
by  the  miners  and  a  dead-lock  folio-wed.  Now 
one  of  the  most  engrossing  questions  in  the 
politics  of  the  State  arises  from  the  filling  of 
the  rivers  and  the  destruction  of  the  agricultu- 
ral lands  by  the  debris  from  these  hydraulic 
mines.  A  dam  on  the  Feather  River,  near  Marys- 
ville,  was  authorized  by  the  Legislature,  and 
after  the  expenditure  of  half  a  million  dollars 
its  success  is  questioned,  and  "  slickem  "  con- 
tinues to  muddy  at  least  the  political  waters, 
muddiness  which  will  strike  the  tourist  as 
affecting  all  the  mountain  streams  on  the  west 
slope  of  the  Sierra  Nevadas,  is  the  result  of  this 
mining.  Once  the  Sacramento  River,  the  Feather 
and  the  American  Rivers  were  clear  as  crystal, 
but  the  hunt  for  gold  has  made  them  like  the 
Missouri  River  in  high  flood  and  even  muddier, 
and  they  are  riot  likely,  while  this  generation  and 
the  next  are  on  the  stage  of  life,  to  resume  their 
former  clearness  and  purity. 

Gold  Run, — 201  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
another  mining  town  in  the  famous  Blue  Lode. 
It  is  a  day  telegraph  station,  with  an  altitude  of 
3,220  feet.  It  has  a  population  of  700,  with  a 
large  number  of  stores,  and  several  hotels.  A 
mile  west  of  Gold  Run  and  to  the  right,  across 
Bear  River,  may  be  seen  You  Bet,  Red  Dog, 
Little  York,  and  other  mining  towns  can  be 
pointed  out  from  the  cars  by  those  familiar  with 
the  country;  but  Ophirwill  be  seen  by  everyone, 
looking  out  on  the  right-hand  side. 

A  farmer  from  Lancaster  or  Chester  County, 
Pa.,  would  not  be  impressed  with  the  worth  of 
the  country ;  but  the  lover  of  nature,  who  does 
not  tire  of  the  variety  in  the  mountain  scenery, 
will  yet  feel  new  interest  in  the  signs  of  speed- 
ily emerging  into  an  open  and  cultivated  coun- 
try. Over  the  Bear  River  Canon,  on  the  right, 
may  be  'raced  the  thin  outline  of  the  basin  of 
the  Sacramento  River,  and,  in  a  favorable  atmos- 
phere,  the  Coast  Range  beyond  is  clearly  visible. 

Once,  all  the  ravines  in  this  vicinity  around 
it,  swarmed  with  miners.     "They  went  to  the 
land  of  Ophir  for  gold."    The  placer  mines, 
were  very  rich,  and  covered  with  only  from! 
one  to  three  feet  of   surface.     The  days  are 
long  past,  but  every  pioneer  has  fresh  recollec- 
tions of  them. 

Between  Gold  Bun  and  Cape  Horn  Mills  the 
road  crosses  Secret  Town  Ravine.  There 
was  formerly  a  station  at  this  point.  The 
high  embankment  covers  a  curved  trestle  work 
L100  feet  long. 


The  ravine  was  named  from  its  early  history, 
to  mark  the  efforts  of  a  company  of  miners  to 
conceal  their  rich  discoveries. 

About  a  mile  and  a  half  below  Secret  Town, 
there  is  a  pretty  view,  where  the  railroad  is 
near  the  edge  of  the  side  hill,  and  the  deep 
ravine  falls  rapidly  away  to  the  American 
Biver. 

Moonlight  Scenery  of  tlie  Sierras. — 
Travelers  going  westward  have  often  the  pleas- 
ure of  a  delightful  ride  by  moonlight  across  the 
famous  scenes  of  the  Sierras.  Just  at  evening, 
when  the  sun  casts  its  last  glorious  rays  across 
the  mountains,  and  lights  up  the  peaks  and 
snowy  summits  with  splendor — the  train  arrives 
at  Cape  Horn,  and  the  thrill  of  interest  of  the 
excited  tourist,  will  never  be  forgotten.  Take  a 
good  look  from  the  point,  westward  down  the 
grand  canon  of  the  American  River.  Step 
toward  the  edge  of  the  cut,  and  look  down  the 
fearful  precipice,  which  is  often  broken  ere  it 
reaches  the  lowest  descent  of  2,000  feet.  It  is  a 
scene  more  famous  in  railroad  pleasure  travel, 
than  any  yet  known.  A  few  miles  beyond,  near 
Shady  Run,  there  suddenly  opens  on  the  gaze  of 
the  expectant  traveler,  just  before  the  sunlight 
has  quite  disappeared,  and  the  evening  shades 
come  on,  the  vision  of 

The  Great  American  Canon,— by  far 
the  finest  canon  of  the  entire  Pacific  Railroad. 
The  suddenness  of  approach,  and  the  grandeur 
of  scene  are  so  overpowering,  that  no  pen,  pic- 
ture or  language  can  give  to  it  adequate  descrip- 
tion. Two  thousand  feet  below,  flow  the  quiet 
waters  of  the  American  River.  Westward  is 
seen  the  chasm,  where  height  and  peak  and 
summit  hang  loftily  over  the  little  vale.  South- 
ward is  a  sea,  yea  an  ocean  of  mountains — and 
the  observer,  seemingly  upon  the  same  level,  is 
bewildered  at  the  immensity  of  Nature's  lavish 
display  of  mountain  wonders ;  night  comes  on, 
and  the  heights  catch  the  soft  light  of  the  moon, 
as  it  shines  and  twinkles  across  and  among  the 
tops  of  the  pines,  lighting  up  the  open  canons,  and 
rendering  still  more  deep  the  contrast  with  the 
shady  glens — the  snow  fields,  cold,  white  and 
chilling,  with  ever  changing  turns  of  the  rail- 
road, make  the  evening  ride,  beyond  a  doubt, 
the  most  pleasurable  that  ever  falls  to  the  lot  of 
the  sight-seer.  The  tourist  must  stay  up  long — 
see  for  yourself  all  the  beauties  of  the  Sierras, 
while  there  is  the  letst  possible  light — Emigrant 
Gap,  Summit,  Conner  Lake,  Blue  Canon — all 
are  delightful,  and  the  lover  of  scene  pleasures 
must  not  forsake  his  window  or  the  platform,  till 
the  midnight  hour  finds  him  at  Truckee.  Trav- 
elers eastward  will  bear  in  mind  that  from  Cape 
Horn  to  Summit,  the  best  scenes  are  on  south 
side  of  the  train,  the  American  River  Canon  on 
the  right  hand,  or  south  side,  and  the  Bear  and 
the  Yuba  River  Valleys  on  the  north  side ;  but 


252 


server  must  find  his  pleasures  on  the  north,  until 
he  reaches  Truckee.  East  of  Truckee  the 
scene  is  again  renewed,  and  the  river  and  best 
views  are  mainly  on  the  south. 

Secret  Town — and    Secret    Town    Bavine. 
Thera  is  a  side  track,  but  it  is  not  now  a  station. 

A.  Chinese  Idea  of  Poker. — "  What's  usee 
play  poker  ?"  remarked  an  almond-eyed  denizen, 
of  Tucson,  Nov. 
"Me  hold 
four  klings  and 
a  lace;  Melican 
man  hold  all 
same  time  four 
laces  and 


and  those  in  Rice's  Ravine  southward  into  the 
American.  At  the  foot  of  the  trestle-work,  and 
climbing  up  both  ravines  to  Colfax,  its  terminus, 
on  a  grade  of  113  feet  to  the  mile,  may  be  seen 
the  narrow  gauge  railroad  just  opened  to  Grass 
Valley  and  Nevada  City—the  former  16.74  and 
the  latter  22  1-2  miles  from  Colfax. 

At  the  bottom  of  the  deep  gorge  around  Cape 

Horn,  and  on  the 
mountain  side 
the    stu- 


nt      -»    *>•* 


kling;  whole 
week  washee 
gone  likee 
woodbine." 

Cape  Horn 
Mills  is  a  side 
track,  at  which 
the  overland 
trains  will  not 
stop  for  pas- 
sengers. It 

is  5.9  miles  from 
Gold  Run,  and 
not  far  from 
Cape  Horn.  Be- 
fore the  train 
"  doubles  "the 
point  or  Cape, 
Robber's  Ravine 
will  be  seen  on 
the  left,  deepen- 
ing into  the  great 
canon  of  the 
American  River. 
Cape  Horn. 
— Around  the 
Cape,  the  rail- 
road clings  to  tlu 
precipitous  bluff 
at  a  point  nearly 
2,000  feet  above 
the  river  and  far 
below  the  sum- 
mit, and  where 
the  first  foot-hole1 
for  the  darinj 
workman  on  the 
narrow  ledire 


was  gained  by  men  who  were  let  down  with  ropes 
from  the  summit. 

When  the  Cape  is  rounded,  Rice's  Ravine  will 
be  on  the  left,  and  Colfax  seen  on  the  opposite 
side.  At  the  head  of  Rice's  Ravine  the  railroad 
crosses  by  trestle-work  1 13  feet  high  and  878  feet 
long,  on  the  summit  of  the  divide  between  Long's 
Ravine  and  Rice's  Ravine— the  waters  from 
Long's  going  first  northward  to  the  Bear  River, 


across 

pendous   chasm, 
may  be  seen  the 
stage  road    to 
Iowa  Hill,  a 
mining  town 
across  the  river. 
The  railroad 
here    is     an 
achievement    of 
engineering 
skill,  genius  and 
daring     on    the 
81  part  of  its  bold 
~"  projectors,   tri- 
umphing  over 
natural  wonders 
and  obstacles  of 
which  ever  to  be 
proud.     The 
view  is  magnifi- 
cent.   N  o  o  n  e 
passing   can    af- 
ford to  miss  it, 
or    he    will    die 
poorer  and  worse 
.'or  the  loss.  Un- 
less   it    be    the 
new  at  Giant's 
Gap,  there  is  no 
railroad  view  to 
surpass  it.     The 
.vonderf  til  chasm 
s  almost  fright- 
:'ul     to     behold. 
The  houses  and 
•ven  fields  in  the 
alley     beneath 
:re  little  things, 
,  n  d  thebut- 
resses    to   the 
deep  water-gate 

SECRET  TOWN,  TKKSTbB-WOKK.  &re    go  enOrmOUS 

that  large  canons  are  as  indistinct  as  the  lines  of 
masonry,  and  as  the  defying  mountains  open 
wild  galleries  back  among  the  higher  peaks,  (ho 
mountain  sculpture  grows  grander  and  grander 
until  the  rugged,  but  dimly  outlined  forms  stretch 
away  in  a  vast  sea  of  pine,  peak  and  snow, 


"  Though  inland  far  we  be." 
The  road-bed,  to  one  looking  down  is  appar- 


253 


ently  scooped  out  of  perpendicular  rock  and 
overhanging  the  great  abyss  ;  and,  to  one  looking 
up,  is  like  a  long  skein  of  gray  thread  wound 
around  the  cliff. 

Colfax  and  the  descending  railroad,  and  the 
less  pretentious  narrow  gauge  toiling  up  to  meet 
each  other,  are  clearly  seen  across  Rice's  Ravine. 

Sklttftil  Cookery. — Americans  who  dine 
with  the  Chinese,  are  surprised  at  the  perfection 
to  which  they  carry  their  cooking.  During  a 
recent  Chinese  banquet  in  San  Francisco,  an 
orange  was  laid  at  the  plate  of  each  guest.  The 
orange  itself  seemed  like  any  other  orange,  but 
on  being  cut  open,  was  found  to  contain  within 
the  rind  five  kinds  of  delicate  jellies.  One  was 
at  first  puzzled  to  explain  how  the  jellies  got  in, 
and  giving  up  that  train  of  reflection,  was  in  a 
worse  quandary  to  know  how  the  pulpy  part  of 
the  orange  got  out.  Colored  eggs  were  also 
served,  in  the  inside  of  which  were  found  nuts, 
jellies,  meats  and  confectionery.  When  one  of 
the  Americans  present,  asked  the  interpreter  to 
explain  this  legerdemain  of  cookery,  he  expanded 
his  mouth  in  a  hearty  laugh,  and  shook  his  head 
and  said,  "  Melican  man  heap  smart;  tchy  he  not 
Jind  him  out  ?  " 

Colfax — 144  miles  from  San  Francisco.  It 
•was  named  in  honor  of  the  late  Vice-President, 
has  an  altitude  of  2,422  feet,  and  is  a  day  tele- 
graph station.  The  old  settlement  was  Ulinois- 
town,  but  with  the  opening  of  the  station,  the 
old  town  was  "finished."  Colfax  has  a  popu- 
lation of  1,000,  two  churches — Methodist  Epis- 
copal and  Congregational — three  hotels  and 
stores  to  indicate  that  it  is  the  center  of  trade 
for  a  population  of  several  thousand.  A  daily 
stage  runs  to  Forest  Hill,  eight  miles  distant, 
on  the  south  side  of  the  American  River. 

NEVADA  COUNTY  NARROW  GAUGE 
RAILROAD. 

JOHN  C.  COLEMAN,  President,     -    Grass  Valley. 
J.  W.  SIOOXTBNEY,  Vice-President, 
EDWAED  COLEMAN,  Treasurer,    - 
JOHN  F.  KIDDEK,  Gen'l  Supt.,  - 
GEORGE  FLETCHEB,  Secretary.,    - 

This  road  is  of  three  feet  gauge,  22/£  miles 
long,  and  extends  to  Nevada  City.  It  is  a  series 
of  almost  continuous  curves,  steep  grades,  high 
bridges  and  charming  scenery.  From  Colfax 
the  road  descends  at  the  rate  of  121  feet  to  tho 
mile  toward  Capo  Horn,  and  passes  under  tho 
high  bridge  of  the  Central  Pacific,  over  the  ravino 
where  the  waters  of  the  Bear  and  American 
rivers  divide.  Following  toward  Bear  river,  a 
side  track  is  reached  for  the  town  of  You  Bet, 
several  miles  distant,  and  the  river  soon  crosses 
at  its  junction  with  Greenhorn  Creek,  and  at  a 
point  346  feet  below  Colfax.  The  Howe  truss 
bridge  is  750  feet  long  and  97  feet  high.  The  road 
follows  the  Greenhorn,  but  the  creek  and  deep 
chasm  are  soon  lost  sight  of  for  three  miles, 


when  they  reappear,  and  the  track  is  only  1,500 
feet  distant  from  the  point  where  they  were  lost 
sight  of.  After  gaining  elevation  by  this  curv- 
ing, the  routs  winds  over  the  high  mountain 
ridges  to  its  summit  at  an  altitude  of  2,851  feet. 

Storms,  Buena  Vista  and  Kress  Summit  a.nd 
Union  Hill  are  stations  between  Colfax  and 
Grass  Valley,  but  of  no  general  importance. 

From  the  summit  to  Grass  Valley  the  maxi- 
mum grade  (descending)  of  121  feet  is  again 
reached.  The  most  charming  views  are  the 
Canon  of  the  Amercan  River  and  Cape  Horn, 
both  pn  the  right  just  after  leaving  Colfax,  and 
the  valleys  of  the  Bear  and  Greenhorn.  Com- 
pared with  these  inspiring  canons,  the  scenery 
from  the  Summit  to  Nevada  City  is  quite  tame, 
yet  there  is  none  of  it  that  is  not  picturesque 
and  interesting. 

All  along  the  routs  traversing  this  region 
of  this  great  country,  the  most  wonderful,  the 
grandest  and  the  most  beautiful  views  of  natu- 
ral scenery  are  to  be  had.  What  magic  is  this 
to  enable  a  traveler  to  sit  in  a  chair  suitable  for 
a  room  in  a  palace;  have  his  meals  brought  to 
him  of  tho  rarest  of  dainties,  if  he  so  chooses; 
and  all  the  while  ho  is  borne  as  swift  as  the 
flight  of  a  bird,  over  ridges  inaccessible  to 
the  toiling  carriages  of  old,  over  the  summits 
of  mountains  and  down  again  to  the  level  of 
valleys ! — performing  in  five  days  what  not 
long  ago  it  took  months  to  do.  Opening  be- 
fore the  tourist,  who  sits  at  his  spacious  win- 
dow in  the  sumptuous  car,  scenes  of  beauty, 
grandeur  and  magnificence,  parhaps  never 
dreamed  of  by  him  before,  coming  and  passing 
like  thoughts  in  a  dream.  What  would  be  the 
sensations  of  one  of  our  ancestors  were  he  to  be 
brought  back  again  to  the  life  ho  lived  and 
placed  by  the  side  of  our  tourist  ? 

Grass  Valley  is  16.74  miles  from  Colfax, 
and  has  a  population  of  P,500.  It  is  the  center 
of  the  best  gold  quartz  mining  region  of  the 
State,  and  has  the  largest  Protestant  Church 
(Methodist  Episcopal)  in  the  Sierra  Mountains. 
It  has  also  a  Congregational,  Roman  Catholic, 
Episcopal  and  Christian  or  Campbellite  Church. 
Until  recently,  it  had  two  banks,  but  at  present 
has  none.  It  is  the  center  of  large  lumber,  fruit 
and  mining  interests,  has  a  daily  paper,  the 
Union,  and  one  weekly,  the  FonthMl  Tidings. 
Stages  leave  Grass  Valley,  daily,  for  Marys- 
ville  on  the  Oregon  division  of  the  Central  Pacific 
Railroad. 

Nevada  City,  five  miles  from  Grass  Valley, 
but  nearly  seven  by  railroad,  is  the  county  town 
of  Nevada  County,  has  a  population  'of  4,500, 
and  is  a  prosperous  town. 

The  people  of  Truckee  are  compelled  to  at- 
tend court  in  this  city.  It  is  in  the  same  mining 
region  as  Grass  Valley,  and  was  for  many  years 
the  largest  town  in  the  mining  regions.  From 
an  area  of  six  miles,  not  less  than  8100,000.000 


CAPE  HORN. 
L— View  looking  down  the  American  River.    2.— View  of  Cape  Horn  and  American  River  Canon,  looking  EaM. 


255 


have  been  taken,  and  $2,000,000  are  now  pro- 
duced annually.  Downieville,  Sierraville,  Lake 
City,  Bloomfield,  Moore's  Plat  and  Eureka 
South. 

The  Idaho  Mine  near  Grass  Valley,  and  close 
to  the  railroad  track,  has  paid  its  one  hundred 
and  fortieth  monthly  dividend,  varying  from  $5 
to  $25.  Many  other  mines  are  rich  and  profitable, 
and  in  no  section  of  the  Pacific  Coast  has  the 
prosperity  of  this  industry  been  more  uniform. 

Grass  Valley  and  Nevada  City  are  alike  in 
having  irregular  streets, — streets  laid  out  to 
suit  the  mines.  Nevada  has  two  papers,  the 
Daily  Transcript  and  the  tri-weekly  Lraaette. 

Stages  leave  Nevada  daily  for  San  Juan  North 
(the  center  of  extensive  hydraulic  mining), 
Comptonville,  Forest  City. 

Leaving  Colfax,  the  tourist  may  become  more 
interested  in  the  forms  of  vegetation  and  will 
notice  the  manzani'a,  common  to  all  the  foot- 
hills of  California.  It  will  be  seen  toward  the 
Geysers  and  the  Yosemite  of  much  larger 
growth.  It  is  a  queer  bush,  and  like  the 
madrona  tree  it  does  not  shed  its  leaf,  but  sheds 
its  bark.  Its  small,  red  berry  ripens  in  the 
fall  and  is  gathered  and  eaten  by  the  Indians. 
Crooked  canes  made  from  its  wood  are  much 
esteemed.  The  bark  is  very  delicate  until  var- 
nished and  dried,  and  great  care  should  be  taken 
in  transporting  them  when  first  cut. 

The  foothills  are  partly  covered  with  chapar- 
ral, consisting  mostly  of  a  low  evergreen  oak, 
which,  in  early  days,  afforded  secure  hiding 
places  for  Mexican  robbers,  and  now  accommo- 
dates with  cheap  lodgings,  many  a  "  road  agent" 
when  supplied  from  Wells,  Fargo  &  Company's 
treasure  boxes.  The  white  blossoms  of  the 
ceanothus  fill  the  air  with  fragrance  in  April 
and  May. 

On  the  right,  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento  is 
coming  faster  into  sight,  and  the  Coast  Range 
growing  more  distinct.  The  next  station,  5.1 
miles  west  of  Colfax,  is 

New  England  Mills,  at  the  west  end  of  a 
plateau  where  there  is  no  grade  for  three  miles. 
Lumbering  in  the  vicinity  has  declined,  and  the 
trains  do  not  stop.  The  roadway  continues  on 
the  south  side  of  the  divide  between  the  Bear 
and  American  rivers,  but  this  has  so  widened 
that  the  cars  seem  to  be  winding  around  among 
small  hills  far  away  from  either  river. 

Water  taken  from  Bear  River,  near  Colfax,  is 
quite  near  the  railroad,  on  the  right,  for  a  num- 
ber of  miles,  and  will  be  seen  crossing  over  at 
Clipper  Gap. 

Below  New  England  Mills  there  is  an  opening 
called  George's  Gap,  named  from  an  early  resi- 
dent, George  Giesendorfer,  and  farther  west  is 
Star  House  Gap,  called  from  an  old  hotel;  then 
signs  of  farming  are  again  seen  in  Bahney's 
Ranche,  at  the  foot  of  Bahney's  Hill,  and  Wild- 
Cat  Eanche  farther  west,  where  Wild-Cat  Sum- 


mit is  crossed  by  a  tunnel  693  feet  long,  and 
Clipper  Ravine  is  then  found  on  the  left-hand 
side.  This  tunnel  was  made  in  1873,  to  straighten 
the  road,  and  the  ends  are  built  of  solid  ma- 
sonry. Across  Clipper  Gap  Ravine,  the  stage 
road  from  Auburn  to  Georgetown  may  be  seen 
winding  up  the  mountain  side. 

About  half-way  between  New  England  Mills 
and  Clipper  Gap,  there  is  a  side  track  and  day 
telegraph  station,  called  Applegatts,  for  the  run- 
ning of  trains  and  a  point  for  shipping  lime; 
but  passenger  trains  run,  without  stopping, 
from  Colfax  11  1-3  miles,  to 

Clipper  Gap — 133  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco.  The  few  buildings  have  a  store  and  a 
hotel  among  them.  It  was  the  terminus  of  the 
road  for  three  or  four  months,  and  then  a  lively 
place. 

Hare  and  mountain  quail  abound  in  these 
foothills.  The  latter  roost,  not  on  the  ground, 
but  in  trees,  never  utter  the  "Bob  White,"  so 
familiar  to  sportsmen,  and  fly  swifter  than  the 
Eastern  quail. 

Auburn — 126  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
a  day  telegraph  station,  6.6  miles  from  Clipper 
Gap,  with  an  elevation  of  1,360  feet. 

From  Auburn  Station  a  daily  stage  runs  22 
miles  to  Forest  Hill  on  arrival  of  the  train  from 
the  east,  fare  $4.00,  and  to  Michigan  Bluffs,  30 
miles,  fare  $6.00,  and  another  runs  daily,  except 
Sunday,  to  Greenwood,  16  miles,  fare  $2.50,  and 
Georgetown,  21  miles,  fare  $3.00,  Pilot  Hill,  11 
miles,  fare  $1.50,  Coloma,  21  miles,  fare  $2.50, 
and  Placerville,  32  miles,  fare  $4.00.  Alabaster 
Cave  on  the  route  of  the  latter,  six  miles  from 
Auburn,  is  an  opening  in  a  limestone  formation, 
and  the  seat  of  the  kilns  in  which  the  best  lime 
of  California  is  made.  What  little  beauty  the 
cave  once  possessed  has  been  invaded,  and  it  has 
now  no  attraction  for  the  tourist. 

The  town  of  Auburn  proper  is  situated  below 
the  station.  It  has  a  population  of  1,000,  two 
churches,  good  schools,  fine  orchards,  and  is  the 
county-seat  of  Placer  County.  It  is  one  of  the 
oldest  towns  in  the  State.  It  has  three  hotels, 
one  of  which  is  the  Railroad  House.  Many  of 
its  buildings  are  constructed  of  brick  or  stone, 
and  grapes  are  extensively  grown  in  the  vicinity, 
and  with  great  success.  The  Placer  Herald  is  a 
weekly  Democratic  paper,  and  the  Argus ;  a 
weekly  Republican  paper. 

From  the  point  where  the  locomotive  stands 
the  Sacramento  River  can  be  seen  on  the  left, 
as  also  from  other  points  as  the  'train  continues 
westward.  Soon  after  leaving  the  station,  the 
railroad  crosses  Dutch  Ravine,  at  the  head  of 
which  is  Bloomer  Cut,  where  the  train  passes 
through  an  interesting  conglomerate,  showing 
a  well-exposed  stratum  of  boulders,  sand  and 
coarse  gravel.  The  trestle  work  formerly  at 
Newcastle  Gap  Bridge,  528  feet  long  and  60 
feet  high,  has  been  filled  with  earth. 


256 


A  VISION  OF  THE  GOLDEN  COUNTRY. 
BY  THOMAS 


257 


As  the  train  nears  Newcastle,  the  Marysville 
Buttes,  rough,  ragged  peaks,  are  easily  discerned. 
They  are  about  12  miles  above  the  city  of 
Marysville,  and  the  town  near  the  railroad, 
but  clinging  to  a  side  hill  opposite,  is  the 
decayed  town  of  Ophir. 

From  the  high  embankments,  before  reaching 
and  also  after  passing  Newcastle,  there  are  line 
panoramas  of 
the    Sacramento 
Valley,  on  both 
the    right   hand 
and    the    left. 
Mount      Diablo 
may  be  seen  on 
the  left. 

Newcastle, — 
121  miles  from 
San  Francisco, 
is  a  day  tele- 
graph station, 
five  miles  from 
Auburn,  956  feet 
above  the  sea. 
It  has  a  hotel  and 
several  stores, 
every  man  in 
the  place  a  Good 
Templar,  and 
some  promising 
quartz  mines  in 
the  vicinity.  It 
was  named  after 
an  old  resident 
and  hotel-keep- 
er called  Castle. 
An  earnest  of 
what  may  be 
seen  in  the  lovely 
valley,  that  has 
such  unlimited 
extent  before  the 
traveler,  may  be 
seen  in  a  flour- 
ishing orange 
tree,  growing  in 
the  open  air,  in 
a  garden  only  a 
few  yards  from 
the  railroad 

track.  BLOOMER  CTTT. 

Fruit  orchards  are  numerous  and  extensive — 
these  foot-hills  being  one  of  the  best  sections  of 
the  State  for  growing  berries,  apples,  cherries, 
peaches  and  figs.  Almost  every  one  will  have 
noticed  the  poison  oak  or  poison  ivy,  and  unless 
one  knows  that  he  cannot  be  affected  by  it,  he 
should  avoid  an  intimate  acquaintance.  Below 
Newcastle  about  a  mile,  the  railroad  leaves 
Dutch  Bavine  and  enters  Antelope  Ravine,  by 
which  it  descends  to  the  plain. 

Penrhyn   is  a  side  track  near  a  valuable 


granite  quarry.  The  rock  is  susceptible  of  a 
high  polish — probably  unsurpassed  in  the  State, 
and  was  used  for  building  the  dry  dock  of  the 
U.  S.  Navy  Yard,  at  Mare  Island,  and  other  pub- 
lic buildings.  In  summer,  200  men  are  employed 
in  the  quarries. 

Pino,— 115  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is  about 
where  the  limit  of  the  pines  is  found,  in  a  coun- 
try full  of  huge 
boulders,  with 
quarries  of  gran- 
ite, slightly  soft- 
er than  that  of 
Penryn. 

Rocklin — is 
112  miles  from 
San  Francisco, 
a  day  and  night 
telegraph  sta- 
tion, with  249 
feet  of  elevation, 
and  is  the  point 
at  which  east- 
bound  trains 
take  an  extra 
locomotive  to 
ascend  the 
mountain.  The 
roundhouse  of 
the  railroad  com- 
pany, with  28 
stalls,  situated 
here  is  a  most 
substantial 
structure,  made 
from  the  granite 
quarries  near 
the  station. 
From  these  quar- 
ries, many  of 
the  streets  of 
San  Francisco 
are  paved,  pub- 
lic and  private 
buildings  erect- 
ed, and  here 
were  cut  the  im- 
mense blocks 
used  for  the 
pavements  of  the 
Palace  Hotel. 

Junction — is  108  miles  from  San  Francisco. 
It  is  a  day  telegraph  station,  and  163  feet  above 
the  sea.  The  town  is  called  Roseville,  in  honoi- 
of  the  belle  of  the  country  who  joined  an  excur- 
sion here  during  the  early  history  of  the  road, 
and  will  probably  be  known  as  Roseville  Junc- 
tion. 

Here  the  Oregon  division  of  the  Central  Pa- 
cific leaves  the  main  line.  On  the  left  may  be 
seen  the  abandoned  grade  of  a  road  that  was 
built  to  this  point  from  Folsom  on  the  American 


258 


River.  By  this  road,  Lincoln,  Wheatland,  Ma- 
rysville,  Chico,  Tehama,  Red  Bluff,  Redding,  and 
intermediate  points  are  reached.  One  hundred 
fifty-one  and  a  half  miles  have  been  built  from 
the  junction  northward.  Passengers  going  north 
may  use  their  tickets  to  San  Francisco  for  pas- 
sage over  this  division,  and  at  Redding  take 
stage  for  Portland,  Or.  See  page  300  for  full 
description  of  Railroad. 

Antelope, — a  side  track  at  which  passenger 
trains  do  not  stop,  and  6,6  miles  farther  on,  a 
place  of  about  equal  importance  called 

Arcade.  — The  soil  is  light,  much  of  it  grav- 
elly, but  it  produces  considerable  grass,  and  an 
abundance  of  wild  flowers.  Prominent  among 
the  latter  are  the  Lupin  and  the  Eschscholtzia, 
or  California  Poppy.  The  long  fence  will  inter- 
est the  Eastern  farmer,  for  here  is  a  specimen  of 
a  Mexican  grant.  It  is  the  Norris  Ranche,  now 
owned  by  Messrs.  Haggin,  Tevis  and  others,  and 
nearly  ten  miles  long.  When  California  was 
first  settled,  these  plains  were  covered  with  tall, 
wild  oats,  sometimes  concealing  the  horseback 
rider,  and  wild  oats  are  now  seen  along  the  side  of 
the  track.  No  stop  is  made,  except  for  passing 
trains,  until  the  American  River  bridge  is 
reached. 

About  four  miles  from  Sacramento  we  reach 
the  American  River.  It  has  none  of  the  loveli- 
ness that  charmed  us  when  we  saw  it  winding 
along  the  mountains.  The  whole  river-bed  has 
filled  up,  and  in  summer,  when  the  water  is  al- 
most wholly  diverted  to  mining  camps  or  for 
irrigation,  it  seems  to  be  rather  a  swamp.  It  is 
approached  by  a  long  and  high  trestle  work. 
After  crossing  the  bridge,  on  the  right,  you  will 
notice  some  thrifty  vineyards  and  productive 
Chinese  gardens  in  the  rich  deposits  of  the  river. 
On  the  left  you  will  obtain  a  fine  view  of  the 
State  Capitol;  also  you  get  a  fine  view  of  the 
grounds  of  the  State  Agricultural  Society.  Its 
speed-track,  a  mile  in  length,  is  unexcelled. 
Its  advantages,  including  the  climate  of  the 
State,  make  it  the  best  training  track  in  the 
United  States.  It  was  here  that  Occident  trot- 
ted in  2.16  3-4,  and  is  said  to  have  made  a  record 
of  2.15  1-4  in  a  private  trial.  The  grand  stand 
was  erected  at  a  cost  of  $  15,000. 

Should  you  pass  through  the  city  in  Septem- 
ber or  October,  do  not  fail  to  see  for  yourself  the 
Agricultural  Park  and  the  Pavilion,  and  test  the 
marvellous  stories  about  the  beets  and  the  pump- 
kins, and  secure  some  of  the  beautiful  and  de- 
licious fruit  that  is  grown  in  the  foot  hills. 

On  the  left  you  will  also  see  the  hospital  of 
the  Central  Pacific  Railroad.  It  contains  all 
modern  improvements  for  lighting,  heating,  ven- 
tilation and  drainage,  and  a  library  of  1,200 
volumes.  It  can  accommodate  200  patients,  and 
cost  the  company  $65,000.  Fifty  cents  a  month 
is  deducted  from  the  pay  of  all  employes  for 
maintaining  the  institution.  No  other  railroad 


has  made  such  generous  provision  for  its  faith- 
ful employes. 

Railroad  Works  — North  of  the  city  there 
was  a  sheet  of  water  known  as  "  Sutler's  Lake  " 
and  "  The  Slough,"  and  a  succession  of  high 
knolls.  The  lake  was  granted  to  the  city  by  the 
State,  and  to  the  railroad  company  by  the  city. 
Its  stagnant  waters  have  given  place,  at  great 
cost,  to  most  important  industries.  The  high 
knolls  have  been  levelled,  and  are  also  owned,  in 
part,  by  the  railroad  company.  Not  less  than  fifty 
acres  of  land  are  thus  made  useful  for  side  tracks 
and  fruitful  in  manufactures.  Six  and  a  half 
acres  of  it  are  covered  by  the  railroad  shops. 
Twelve  hundred  men  are  constantly  employed. 

These   are   the  chief  shops   of  the    railroad. 
Some    you    saw    at    Ogden,    Terrace,     Carlin, 
Wadsworth,   Truckee    and    Rocklin,   and    you 
will  find  others  at  Lathrop  and  Oakland  Point, 
and  at  Txilare  and  Caliente  on  the  Visalia  Divis- 
ion.     At  Oakland  Point  several  hundred  men 
are  employed.    All  these  shops  and  those  of  the 
California  Pacific  Road  at  Vallejo  center  here. 
These  are  the  largest  and  best  shops  west  of  the 
Mississippi  River,  and  form  the  most  extensive 
manufacturing  industry  of  the  city. 

The  best  locomotives,  and  the  most  elegant  and 
comfortable  passenger  cars  on  the  coast  are  built, 
and  a  large  portion  of  the  repairs  for  the  whole 
road  is  done  here.  All  the  castings  of  iron  and 
brass,  and  every  fitting  of  freight  and  passenger 
cars,  except  the  goods  used  in  upholstering,  is 
here  produced ;  boilers  for  steamers  put  up,  the 
heaviest  engine  shafts  forged,  telegraph  instru- 
ments made,  silver  plating  done,  and  12,000 
car  wheels  made  every  month.  All  the  latest 
and  best  labor-saving  tools  and  machinery  used 
in  wood,  iron  and  brass  work  can  here  be  seen 
in  operation. 

The  capacity  of  the  shops  is  six  box-freight, 
and  six  flat  cars  per  day,  and  two  passenger,  and 
one  sleeping  car  per  month.  Twelve  years  ago, 
the  work  of  the  company  at  this  point,  was  all 
done  in  a  little  wooden  building  24  by  100  feet, 
and  with  less  men  than  there  are  now  build- 
ings or  departments. 

Last  year  a  million  and  a  half  dollars  was  paid 
out  for  labor  in  these  shops  alone,  and  4,000  tons 
of  iron  consumed.  Some  of  the  buildings,  like 
the  roundhouse,  are  of  brick.  This  has  29  pits 
each  60  feet  long,  with  a  circumference  of  600 
feet.  Some  of  the  buildings  have  roofs  or  sides 
of  corrugated  iron.  Seven  large  under-ground 
tanks,  1,600  gallons  each,  are  used  for  oil  and 
2,000  gallons  of  coal  oil,  and  400  of  sperm  con- 
sumed every  month. 

In  connection  with  the  shops,  is  a  regularly 
organized  and  well-equipped  fire-brigade,  and  in 
two  minutes  the  water  of  two  steam  fire-engines 
can  be  directed  to  any  point  in  the  buildings. 

Soon  a  rolling  mill  will  be  erected,  and  upon 
a    location  but  lately  pestilential.     The  whole 


260 


coast  will  be  laid  under  further  tribute  to  these 
shops  for  the  facilities  of  travel  and  commerce. 

Just  before  entering  the  depot  you  will  see 
the  Sacramento  Eiver  on  the  right. 

The  announcement  of  "  Sacramento  "  will  be 
exceedingly  welcome  to  every  through  pass- 
enger, for  it  will  leave  but  little  more  journeying 
to  be  accomplished.  The  trains  stop  for  break- 
fast going  west,  and  supper  going  east.  The 
price  of  each  meal  is  seventy -five  cents,  or  "  six 
fo'/V'but  no  better  meals  are  served  between 
New  York  and  Omaha.  Trains  stop  twenty-five 
minutes.  The  depot  is  the  finest  in  California, 
excepting  that  at  Oakland  wharf,  and  is  worthy 
of  the  road  and  State.  It  is  four  hundred  and 
sixteen  feet  long  and  seventy  wide,  and  has 
another  adjoining,  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet 
long  by  thirty-five  feet  wide.  It  is  largely  of 
iron  and  glass,  and  being  open  at  the  sides  is 
peculiarly  adapted  to  the  warm  climate  of  the 
region. 

At  this  point  passengers  have  choice  of  four 
routes  to  San  Francisco.  (1)  The  oldest— the 
Sacramento  Eiver  on  which  a  boat  runs  daily — 
leaving  usually  in  the  morning,  but  with  irreg- 
ular hours.  It  is  not  a  popular  route.  (2)  There 
is  the  old  Overland  Route — -via  Stockton  and 
Livermore  Pass  and  Niles.  This  route  is  139. 67 
miles  long.  Passengers  for  San  Jose  can  save 
fare  by  taking  this  route  and  changing  cars  at 
Niles,  and  wUl  reach  San  Jose  at  4:50  p.  M.  A 
ticket  at  San  Francisco  is  good  also  to  San  Jose 
by  this  route.  For  this  route  more  particularly 
see  page  (3)  There  is  the  route  via  Stock- 

ton and  Martinez — avoiding  the  heavy  grade  of 
the  Livermore  Pass — but  making  the  distance 
151.19  miles.  This  is  the  same  as  route  No.  2 
as  far  as  to  Tracy  Junction,  and  from  Tracy  it 
is  identical  with  the  Overland  Eoute  of  the 
Southern  Pacific.  (4)  The  popular  route  is  that 
Overland  train  from  Ogden,  crossing  the  Sacra- 
mento Eiver  at  Sacramento  and  running  over 
the  California  Pacific,  the  Northern  Eailway  and 
the  San  Pablo  and  Tulare  Railroad,  all  leased 
and  operated  by  the  Central  Pacific.  By  this 
route  the  distance  to  San  Francisco  is  only  89.79 
miles. 

Of  course,  the  weary  traveler  will  take  this 
last-named  route,  but  before  proceeding  he  may 
cast  his  eye  around  Sacramento — the  capital  of 
California. 

There  are  "  free  busses"  to  the  Arcade,  Golden 
Eagb,  Capitol,  Grand  or  Orleans,  all  first-class, 
comfortable  and  well  patronized  ;  or  the  street- 
cars will  convey  you  near  any  one  of  these.  The 
"  Western  "  is  also  a  good  and  popular  house. 

The  population  of  the  city  is  about  25,000. 
The  streets  are  regularly  laid  out,  and  beginning 
at  the  river  or  depot,  with  Front  or  First,  are 
numbered  to  Thirty-first,  and  the  cross  streets 
aro  lettered,  beginning  with  A  on  the  north  side 
of  the  city.  The  stores  are  chiefly  of  brick,  and 


residerices  of  wood.  The  broad  streets  are 
shaded  by  trees  of  heavy  foliage,  the  elm,  wal- 
nut, poplar  and  sycamore  prevailing,  and  in  sum- 
mer  are  almost  embowered  by  these  walls  of 
verdure,  that  are  ready  to  combat  the  spread  of 
fires.  It  is  a  city  of  beautiful  homes.  Lovely 
cottages  are  surrounded  by  flowers,  fruits  and 
vines,  while  some  of  the  most  elegant  mansions 
in  the  State  are  in  the  midst  of  grassy  lawns  or 
gardens  filled  with  the  rarest  flowers.  The 
orange,  fig,  lime  and  palm  flourish,  and  the  air  is 
often  laden  with  nature's  choice  perfumes.  It  is 
lighted  with  gas,  and  has  water  from  the  Sacra- 
mento River,  supplied  by  the  Holly  system.  Two 
million  gallons  are  pumped  up  daily. 

The  climate  is  warm  in  summer,  but  the  heat 
is  tempered  by  the  sea  breeze  which  ascends 
the  river,  and  the  nights  are  always  pleasantly 
cool.  Notwithstanding  its  swampy  surroundings 
and  the  luxuriance  o£  its  semi-tropical  vegeta- 
tion, statistics  establish  the  fact  that  it  is  one  of 
the  healthiest  cities  in  the  State. 

Among  the  more  prominent  buildings  are  the- 
Court-house,  Odd  Fellows',  Masonic,  Good  Tem- 
plars' and  Pioneer  Halls ;  the  Christian  Brothers' 
College,  the  Churches,  Schools  and  the  Capitol. 
The  grammar  school  building  is  a  credit  to  the 
educational  structures  of  the  State,  and  attracts 
attention  from  visitors  second  only  to  the  Capitol. 

The  Pioneers  are  an  association  of  Califor- 
nians  who  arrived  prior  to  January,  1850.  Their 
hall  has  an  antiquarian  value — especially  in  a 
very  accurate  register  of  important  events  extend* 
ing  back  to  A.  D.  1650.  "Another  association, 
the  Sons  of  the  Pioneers,  will  become  the  heirs 
of  these  valuable  archives,  and  perpetuate  the 
association.  The  annual  business  of  the  city 
exceeds  twenty-seven  midion  dollars. 

The  State  Capitol. —  This  is  the  most 
attractive  object  to  visitors.  It  cost  nearly 
$2,500,000.  It  stands  at  the  west  and  thrice  ter- 
raced end  of  a  beautiful  park  of  eight  blocks, 
extending  from  L  to  N  street,  and  from  Tenth 
to  Fourteenth  street.  Back  of  the  Capitol,  but 
within  the  limits  of  the  park  and  its  beautiful 
landscape  gardening,  are  the  State  Printing 
Office  and  the  State  Armory. 

The  main  entrance  to  the  Capitol  is  opposite 
M  street.  The  edifice  was  modeled  after  the 
old  Capitol  at  Washington  and  has  the  same 
massiveness,  combined  with  admirable  propor- 
tions, and  rare  architectural  perfection  and 
beauty.  Its  front  is  320  feet  and  height  80  feet, 
above  which  the  lofty  dome  rises  to  220  feet,  and 
is  then  surmounted  by  the  Temple  of  Liberty, 
and  Powers'  bronze  statue  of  California.  The 
lower  story  is  ~><  granite,  the  other  two  of 
brick. 

Ascending  by  granite  steps,  which  extend  SO' 

feet  across  the  front,  we  reach  the  portico  with 

j    ten  massive  columns.     Passing  through  this,  we 

stand  in  the  lofty  rotunda,  72  feet  in  diameter. 


261 


The  chambers  and  galleries  are  finished  and  fur- 
nished in  richness  and  elegance  befitting  the 
Golden  State.  The  doors  are  of  walnut  and 
California  laurel,  massive  and  elegant.  The 
State  library  has  35,000  volumes.  The  great 
dome  is  of  iron,  supported  by  24  fluted  Corin- 
thian columns  and  24  pilasters.  Rising  above 
this  is  a  smaller  dome  supported  by  12  fluted 
Corinthian  pillars. 

The  beauty  of  the  whole  is  equaled  in  but 
few  of  the  public  buildings  in  the  country,  and 
the  California  laurel  with  its  high  polish  adds  no 
little  to  the  charm.  The  steps  leading  to  the  top 
of  the  outer  dome  are  easy,  except  for  persons  of 
delicate  health,  and  the  view  to  be  gained  on  a 
clear  day,  will  amply  repay  any  exertion.  The 
extended  landscape  is  incomparably  lovely. 
You  are  in  the  center  of  the  great  Sacramento 
Valley,  nearly  450  miles  long  by  40  wide,  where 
fertile  soil  and  pleasant  clime  have  contributed 
to  make  one  of  the  loveliest  pictures  to  be  seen 
from  any  capitol  in  the  world. 

Just  beneath  lies  a  city  with  many  beautiful 
.esidences,  half  concealed  in  the  luxuriant  ver- 
dure of  semi-tropical  trees.  Lovely  gardens 
enlarged  into  highly  cultivated  farms — then, 
wide  extended  plains,  on  which  feed  thousands 
•of  cactle  and  sheep,  groves  of  evergreen  oak, 
long,  winding  rivers,  and  landlocked  bays,  white 
with  the  sails  of  commerce,  and  along  the  east- 
ern horizon  stretch  the  rugged  Sierras,  with 
their  lines  of  arid  foot  hills,  perpetual  verdure, 
and  snowy  summits,  shining  like  white  sum- 
mer clouds  in  a  clear  blue  sky. 

On  the  west  the  Coast  Range  limits  the  vision 
with  its  indistinct  and  hazy  lines,  out  of  which 
the  round  top  of  Mount  Diablo  is  quite  dis- 
tinct. Southward,  the  eye  takes  in  the  valley  of 
the  San  Joaquin,  (pronounced,  Wah-keen),  with 
its  rapidly  populating  plains. 

In  1850,  a  fire  left  only  on  ?  house  standing, 
where  are  now  21  of  the  principal  business 
blocks,  and  in  1854,  a  second  fire  nearly  de- 
stroyed the  city,  after  which  lumber  was  scarce 
at  if  500  a  thousand. 

In  the  winter  of  1351-2,  a  flood  covered  the 
whole  city,  and  led  to  the  construction  of  levees, 
which  were  afterward  enlarged.  Part  of  the 
city,  too,  was  raised  above  high-water  mark. 
Ten  years  later  a  flood  occurred,  with  from 
«ight  to  ten  feet  of  water  in  all  the  parts  of  the 
city  not  raised,  and  flooding  the  first  stories  of 
all  houses  and  stores.  In  the  winter  of  1875-6, 
the  river  was  three  inches  higher  than  ever  be- 
fore known,  yet  the  city  was  perfectly  safe. 

As  a  distributing  point,  the  commercial  ad- 
vantages of  the  city  are  second  only  to  San 
Francisco.  Freight  by  the  Overland  route  is 
here  started  north  or  south.  Merchants  of  Ne- 
vada, Northern  California  and  Utah  secure  their 
freight  from  this  point  with  less  charges  and 
greater  despatch  than  from  San  Francisco,  and 


all  shipments  to  the  mountains  or  beyond,  must 
go  through  this  gate.  Fruit  from  the  foot  hills, 
of  choicer  flavor  than  that  grown  in  the  warmer 
valleys,  and  vegetables,  enormous  and  abundant, 
from  the  rich  alluvial  soil  of  the  rivers,  concen- 
trate here  to  supply  the  dwellers  from  the  Sierras 
eastward.  During  the  summer  of  1875  the  aver- 
age weekly  shipment,  of  fruit  alone,  to  the  East, 
was  400  tons. 

The  industries  that  already  give  the  city 
prominence,  and  not  directly  connected  with  the 
railroad,  are  more  than  can  be  mentioned. 
Among  them  are  the  Capital  Woolen  Mills,  sev- 
eral carriage,  wagon  and  furniture  factories, 
several  flouring-mills,  one  of  which,  the  Pioneer, 
is  the  largest  in  the  State,  with  capacity  for  pro- 
ducing 600  barrels  of  flour  and  950  tons  of  barley 
per  day,  boiler,  general  iron  and  brass  works. 
Wineries  are  permanently  established  and  pro- 
ductive. 

Beet  Sugar — is  manufactured  about  three 
miles  from  the  city.  The  works  were  erected  at 
a  cost  of  $ 275,000,  and  1,450  acres  of  land  are  in. 
use  for  the  factory.  Ninety  tons  of  beets  can  be 
used,  per  day,  yielding  about  13  1-2  per  cent,  of 
saccharine  matter,  while  the  refuse  is  mixed 
with  other  feed  and  used  to  fatten  cattle. 

This  promises  to  become  one  of  the  chief  in- 
dustries of  California,  and  the  only  occasion 
where  the  descriptive  powers  of  Mr.  Nordhoff 
seem  to  have  failed  him,  was  in  the  presence 
of  the  machinery  of  the  Johnson  process  used  in 
this  manufacture. 

The  sugar-beet  does  not  grow  to  enormous 
size,  but  the  mangel-wurzel  continues  to  grow, 
summer  and  winter,  until  it  attains  enormous 
size.  Southern  California  is  said  to  have  pro- 
duced one  of  1,100  pounds,  and  a  farmer  of  So- 
noma County,  had  one  (not  considering  the  top), 
three  feet  above  the  ground.  We  believe  he 
fenced  around  it,  lest  a  cow  should  get  inside  of 
it  and  eat  out  the  heart. 

The  city  has  a  paid  Fire  Department,  and 
five  newspapers — the  Daily  and  Weekly  Record- 
Union,  the  Daily  and  Weekly  Bee,  The  Sacramento 
Valley  Agriculturalist  (weekly),  Sacramento  Jour- 
nal (German  tri-weekly),  and  The  Weekly  Res- 
cue, the  organ  of  the  I.  O.  G.  T. 

Sacramento  is  intimately  connected  with  all 
parts  of  the  State  and  is  advantageously  situated 
for  manufactures  and  for  wholesale  trade.  Mer- 
chants in  Nevada  find  it  a  day  or  two  nearer 
than  San  Francisco.  The  river  affords  cheap 
transportation  to  Northern  California,  and  to  and 
from  San  Francisco.  The  California  Pacific  and 
Northern  Railway  extend  their  arms  to  the  west 
side  of  the  Sacramento  Valley  and  even  to  Napa 
and  Lake  Counties,  and  the  Oregon  Division  of 
the  California  Pacific  controls  the  trade  to 
Southern  Oregon.  The  Sacramento  Valley  Rail- 
road, runs  to  Folsom,  controling  trade  as  far  as 
Placerville.  By  the  Western  Pacific,  connection 


REPRESENTATIVE  MEN  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


1.— Senator  Sargent.    2.— R.  B.  Woodward.    3.—  Senator  fliaron.  (Nevada.)    4.— D.  O.  Mills. 
5.— James  C.  Flood.    6.— W.  C.  Ralston.    7.— M.  S.  Latham.    8.— Gov.  Irwin. 


263 


is  Biade  at  Lathrop  with  the  San  Joaquin  Valley 
arid  the  Southern  Pacific. 

Sacramento  has  three  daily  trains  to  San  Fran- 
cisco. (1)  The  Overland  leaving  at  7:20  A.  M. 
(2)  The  Alta  Passenger  and  Oregon  train  leaving 
at  11:30  via  Stockton  and  the  Oregon  and  Sacra- 
mento at  3:30  p.  M.  The  last  runs  via  the  Cali- 
fornia Pacific,  and  tourists  who  desire  to  spend 
the  day  in  Sacramento  will  find  it  best  to  take 
this  3:30  train 

Leaving  Sacramento  via  the 

CALIFORNIA  PACIFIC  RAILROAD, 

and.  crossing  he  Sacramento  Kiver  on  a  substan- 
tial drawbridge,  we  are  in  the  village  of  Wash- 
ington— an  unfortunate  town.  It  is  backed  by 
title  (swamp)  lands,  and  was  long  harassed  by 
tolls  exacted  to  cross  the  river.  But  its  worst 
enemy  is  the  flood.  The  levees  that  protect 
Sacramento  hurl  the  spring  torrents  of  the 
American  Biver  (uniting  with  the  Sacramento 
just  above  the  city)  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Sacramento  and  break  through  the  village. 
Sometimes  the  water  extends  from  Sacramento 
to  Davisville,  and  a  small  steamer  runs  across 
the  tule  land.  For  months  at  a  time  the  rail- 
road between  Washington  and  Davisville  has 
been  impassable  and  trains  have  had  to  take 
either  route  (2)  or  (3),  mentioned  above,  for  San 
Francisco. 

Along  the  river  bank,  opposite  Sacramento, 
is  a  narrow  strip  of  land  sufficiently  elevated 
for  farming — but  the  train  is  soon  beyond  this 
on  trestle-work,  or  a  high  embankment  crossing 
the  tules.  On  this  narrow  strip  the  ubiquitous 
pea-nut  and  chickory  grow  to  perfection.  No 
pea-nut  surpasses  these  in  size  or  flavor,  and 
the  chickory  commands  a  price  equal  to  the 
German.  Coffee  men  consider  it  of  siiperior 
quality,  and  the  traveler  will  find  it  abundant 
in  the  pure  coffee  of  all  the  hotels  in  the  in- 
terior. 

The  tule  land  is  the  richest  in  the  State — a  fine 
vegetable  mold  and  deposit  from  the  winter 
floods.  Many  square  miles  of  it  up  and  down 
the  river  await  reclamation,  and  much  has  been 
reclaimed.  It  will  be  difficult  to  reclaim  the 
great  extent  of  it  now  before  the  eye,  because  on 
the  right  of  the  railroad  and  several  miles  up  the 
river,  the  waters  of  Cache  Creek  spread  out  and 
sink,  and  on  the  left  the  waters  of  Putah  Creek 
are  also  emptied,  and  high  levees  would  be  re- 
quired to  carry  off  so  much  water.  These  tules 
are  the  temporary  abode  of  some,  and  the  perma- 
nent abode  of  other,  varieties  of  wild  fowl,  and 
the  happy  Ininting-grounds  for  many  a  Nimrod. 
After  the  first  rains  come,  the  geese  arrive,  the 
white  brant  coming  first  and  in  largest  numbers. 
Three  varieties  are  common,  the  white  and 
speckled-breasted  brant,  and  the  hawnker.  Acres 
of  the  ground,  where  the  dry  tule  has  been  burned 
off  and  the  young  grass  has  sprouted,  are  covered 


with  the  geese,  and  sometimes  they  are  like  a 
great  cloud  in  the  air,  and  their  noise  heard 
for  a  mile  or  more. 

The  varieties  of  the  duck  are  many,  but  the 
mallard,  sprig  tail,  canvas-back,  and  teal  are 
most  esteemed.  It  is  an  easy  and  pleasant  task 
for  one  acquainted  with  the  flight  of  the  ducks 
to  bring  down  from  twenty  to  a  hundred  in  a 
single  day,  besides  more  geese  than  he  is  willing 
to  "  pack."  About  five  miles  from  Sacramento 
is  an  island  (of  a  hundred  acres,  dry  and  grassy) 
where  two  or  three  days  camping  may  be  en- 
joyed  by  a  lover  of  the  sport. 

When  the  Sacramento  overflows  its  banks  and 
the  creeks  are  high,  the  tules  are  hidden  by  the 
water,  and  if  the  wind  blows,  this  region  is  like 
an  open  sea.  Frequently  the  road-bed  has  been 
washed  away  and  now  it  is  protected  by  an. 
inclined  breakwater  and  young  willows. 

It  has  been  generally,  but  erroneously,  sup- 
posed that  hogs  and  the  Chinamen  feed  on  the 
tule  root.  The  bulbous  root  they  eat  is  called 
by  the  Chinese  "Foo  tau,"  and  is  imported 
largely  from  China,  where  it  grows  to  a  greater 
size  than  in  this  country.  Across  the  tules  at 
Swingle's  Ranch  is  Webster,  a  side  track  and  flag 
station. 

Davisville  is  13  miles  nearly  due  west  of 
Sacramento,  and  is  77  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco. It  has  a  population  of  300,  all  gathered 
since  the  building  of  the  railroad,  and  has 
several  stores,  a  dozen  saloons,  four  restaurants, 
and  a  Presbyterian,  a  Methodist  Episcopal,  and 
a  Roman  Catholic  Church.  About  the  same  pro- 
portion of  saloons  to  the  population  holds  good 
over  California,  but  that  of  churches  does.  not. 
But  "  Davisville  is  not  an  immoral  place,  for  the 
liquor  is  all  sold  to  non-residents." 

In  1862  land  was  worth  from  $6  to  $10  per 
acre,  and  now  sells  at  $75  to  $100. 

Near  Davisville  are  large  orchards,  "  Brigg's  " 
covering  400  acres,  and  the  "  Silk  Ranche  "  or- 
chard 250  acres,  but  in  dry  seasons  the  quantity 
and  quality  of  the  fruit,  is  greatly  impaired  by 
the  want  of  irrigation. 

The  failure  of  silk  culture  was  largely  owing 
to  the  hot  winds  from  the  north,  killing  the 
worms.  Attention  to  fruit  culture,  has  demon- 
strated the  necessity  of  allowing  nothing  to  grow 
between  the  trees.  Nor  are  the  trees  trimmed 
so  high  up  as  in  the  Eastern  States.  Here  alfalfa 
yielded  in  one  season  $55  worth  of  hay  to  the  acre. 
.  At  Davisville  the  railroad  to  San  Francisco 
turns  directly  to  the  south,  and  a  branch  runs 
north  to  Woodland  and  Knight's  Landing. 

Continuing  south  from  Davisville,  the  road 
crosses  Putah  Creek — a  stream  rising  in  Lake 
County  and  "sinking,"  /.  e.,  spreading  out  over 
the  tules.  The  old  channel  is  near  the  town 
and  a  recent  channel  a  mile  further  south.  In 
summer  the  bed  will  be  dry,  and  in  winter  there 
will  be  a  torrent. 


264 


Tremont—73  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
in  a  rich  farming  country  but  an  unimportant 
station.  On  the  right  are  the  Coast  Bange  dis- 
tant about  fifteen  miles. 

Dixon — 69  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is  a 
thriving  village,  in  soil  adapted  to  wheat,  fruit 
and  grapes. 

liatavia — 65  miles  from  San  Francisco,  a 
promising  village,  with  a  large  grain  trade,  a 
hotel  and  several  stores. 

Elmira — 60  miles  from  San  Francisco,  was 
formerly  called  Vaca  Junction.  It  is  like  all  the 
towns  in  this  rich  section,  growing  rapidly  in 
importance. 

THE    VACA    VALLEY  AND    CLEAR 
LAKE  RAILROAD 

extends  from  Elmira  to  Madison,  about  twenty 
miles,  and  passes  through  VacaviUe  and  Winters. 
It  is  a  convenient  outlet  for  the  products  of  the 
west  side  of  this  portion  of  the  Sacramento 
Valley,  but  its  passenger  traffic  is  only  local  and 
the  scenery  uninteresting. 

Fairfield  and  Suisun  City  are  50  miles 
from  San  Francisco.  The  former  is  on  the 
right-hand  side  of  the  road,  and  the  other  on  the 
left.  Fairfield  is  the  county-seat  of  Solano 
County,  and  Suisun  the  post-office  and  business 
center.  Fairfield  has  a  Methodist  Episcopal 
Church,  and  Suisun  a  Protestant  Episcopal, 
Congregational  and  a  Methodist  Episcopal. 
South  Suisun  is  at  the  head  of  Suisun  Slough, 
navigable  for  small  sloops  and  steamers,  and  on 
the  edge  of  a  large  tract  of  tule  land ,  Its  streets 
are  subject  to  a  slight  over  ft.  w  during  heavy 
rains,  when  its  adobe  soil  is  a  very  tenacious 
friend  to  one's  feet.  The  hills  which  have  been 
approaching  closer  and  closer  since  we  left  Sac- 
ramento— one  of  the  numerous  ridges  of  the 
Coast  Range — is  now  not  far  off,  but  instead  of 
encountering  these  on  the  main  line  of  the  Cali- 
fornia Pacific,  the  Overland  train  will  here  take 
the  Northern  Railway  across  the  "swamp  and 
overflowed  "  tule  lands  to  Benicia  and  the  Straits 
of  Carquinez. 

Passengers  for  the  Napa  Valley  will,  however, 
change  cars  and  take  a  train  on  the  main  line 
for  Napa  Junction,  where  they  will  connect  with 
a  train  from  San  Francisco  for  Calistoga. 

Soon  after  leaving  Suisun  one  may  see  that  it 
has  been  difficult  to  find  a  solid  spot  for  the 
road-bed.  Fabulous  stories  are  told  by  the  rail- 
road employees  about  the  impossibility  of  find- 
ing a  bottom.  It  is  even  said  that  a  horse  and 
cart  employed  in  grading  broke  through  the 
crust  and  were  found  afterward  in  the  San  Fran- 
cisco Bay.  But  it  is  believed  that  after  a  couple 
of  years  of  patient  work  a  solid  resting  place  has 
been  found,  and  the  track  will  not  sink  out  of 
sight  again.  These  tules,  like  those  near  Sacra- 
mento and  elsewhere,  are  the  home  of  wild 


geese,  and  a  favorite  resort  for  the  hunter. 
Across  the  tules  on  the  left  can  be  seen  the 
low  range  of  Montezuma  Hills,  on  the  north 
bank  of  the  Sacramento  Biver,  and  nearly  in 
front  of  the  train,  Mt.  Diablo.  Suisun  Bay 
which  receives  the  waters  of  the  Sa?ramento 
and  San  Joaquin  rivers,  and  dischar^as  them 
through  the  Strait  of  Carquinez,  will  be  on  the 
left  as  the  train  passes.  I  eai  and  Goody  cat's 
are  two  unimportant  stations. 

Army  Point— 35  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
is  on  the  military  reservation  for  Benicia  Arsenal 
—a  signal  station,  and  the  old  Pacific  Mail  Dock 
the  Overland  trains  pass  by.  Across  the  Strait 
of  Martinez — the  county  seat  of  Contra  Costa 
County — may  be  seen  snugly  nestled  among  J;he 
hills,  and  on  the  right  are  the  buildings  con- 
nected with  the  U.  S.  Arsenal,  and  the  town  of 
Benicia — 33  miles  from  San  Francisco.  It 
has  a  population  of  about  1,500,  a  manufactory 
of  agricultural  implements,  several  tanneries, 
two  flourishing  private  schools,  Congregational, 
Protestant  Episcopal  and  Catholic  churches, 
and  many  other  real  and  prospective  things  of 
which  the  people  boast. 

_  In  early  days  Benicia  was  a  rival  of  San  Fran- 
cisco for  the  commercial  supremacy  of  the  coast, 
and  it  was  doubtful  for  some  time  which  would 
bear  off  the  fortune. 

At  Banicia  the  train  will  board  the  monster 
ferryboat,  "Solano,"  the  largest  for  her  class 
afloat.  Her  length  over  all  is  424  feet;  length 
of  bottom  406  feet;  her  extreme  width  over 
guards  116  feet;  her  draught  when  loaded  6  feet 
6  inches.  She  has  two  verti.al  beam  engines, 
with  60-inch  bore  cylinders  of  11  feet  stroke,  and 
both  engines  are  placed  on  the  center  line  of  the 
boat  to  give  room  on  deck  for  four  tracks.  Each 
wheel  30  feet  in  diameter,  with  24  buckets,  each 
17  feet  face,  is  driven  by  an  independent  engine, 
that  the  boat  may  be  easily  handled.  There  are 
8  steel  boilers,  each  28  feet  long,  with  19,640 
square  feet  of  heating  surface,  and  4,000  horse 
power.  To  support  the  great  weight  Pratt 
trusses  are  placed  directly  under  the  tracks. 
The  hull  is  divided  into  12  water-tight  compart- 
ments. At  each  end  of  the  boat  are  four 
rudders  11  ^  feet  long  by  5>£  feet  deep,  coupled 
together  and  worked  by  hydraulic  apparatus. 
The  four  tracks  will  accommodate  48  freight 
cars  with  locomotive,  or  24  passenger  coaches. 
The  aprons  at  Benicia  and  Port  Costa  are  each 
100  feet  long,  weigh  150  tons,  and  are  worked 
by  hydraulic  power. 

Port  Costa — 32  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
is  a  point  for  loading  sea-going  vessels  with 
wheat.  Leaving  Port  Costa,  the  road  follows 
the  Straits  of  Carquinez,  through  which  all  the 
waters  from  Mount  Shasta  on  the  north  to  Tejon 
Pass  on  the  south — about  500  miles,  and  from 
the  Sierras  on  the  east  to  the  Coast  Bange  on 


265 


the  west  from  20  to  200  miles,  force  their  way 
to  the  ocean. 

Valona — 30  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is  of 
but  little  importance. 

Vallejo  Junction — 29  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, is  only  of  importance  as  the  point  of 
transfer  to  Vallejo,  and  the  Napa  Branch  of  the 
California  Pacific  Railroad.  A  ferryboat  crosses 
the  mouth  of  the  Straits  to  the  depot  and  wharf 
at  South  Vallejo.  The  town  is  visible  on  the 
right,  across  the  water,  and  Mare  Island  is  seen 
with  a  lighthouse  at  the  eastern  end.  On  Mare 
Island  is  the  U.  S.  Navy  Yard.  Most  of  the 
buildings  are  concealed  from  view — but  after 
skirting  the  San  Pablo  Bay  for  a  few  minutes, 
some  of  them  will  come  in  sight.  The  Island 
was  named  from  a  mare  found  upon  it  in  early 
•days,  and  is  pronounced  in  one  syllable. 

Tormey,  finale  and  Sobrante  are  stations 
which  the  tourist  will  be  glad  to  pass,  for  he 
will  keep  his  eyes  across  the  water  to  the  charm- 
ing hills  beyond. 

Following  the  horizon  from  Vallejo  to  the 
left  or  west  and  south,  the  first  depression  in 
the  hills  will  indicate  the  direction  of  the  Napa 
Valley,  the  second,  the  Sonoma  Valley,  and  in 
the  farthest  recess  of  the  Bay  toward  the  north- 
west, lie  Petaluma  and  the  entrance  to  the 
Russian  River  Valley.  South  of  this,  and  just 
north  of  the  highest  peak  on  the  opposite  side — 
Mt.  Tamalpais — is  San  Rafael,  sheltered  among 
the  high  hills,  and  San  Quentin  to  the  left  in  the 
foreground,  and  the  Two  Brothers  and  their 
lighthouse  about  the  line  dividing  San  Pablo 
and  San  Francisco.  But  Mt.  Tamalpais  and  San 
Rafael  are  not  far  from  San  Francisco,  and  the 
Mount,  with  its  long  gulch  washed  out  of  its 
face,  will  be  a  landmark  until  we  reach  the 
city. 

San,  Pablo — 18  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
would  be  a  flourishing  suburb  of  San  Francisco, 
if  the  land  was  not  all  included  in  a  Spanish 
grant,  and  if  the  titles  of  the  land  did  not  baffle 
up  to  this  time  all  the  lawyers  of  the  country. 
It  is  an  old  Spanish  town  with  a  population  of 
300,  and  with  a  Catholic  and  a  Presbyterian 
church. 

BABKET,  16.1  miles  from  San  Francisco. 

STEGE,  13.9       "        " 

POINT  ISABEL,  12.8     " 

HIGHLAND,  11.7          " 

DELAWAHE  STKEET,  10.4  '     and 

STOCK  YAKDS,  8.7 

Are  stations  for  local  trains. 

Nearing  Oakland,  one  will  find  on  his  left, 
prominently  situated  near  the  foot  of  the  Contra 
Costa  range,  the  State  University  at  Berkeley. 
It  is  controlled  by  regents  appointed  by  the 
State,  and  furnishes  opportunity  for  all  who 
desire  to  obtain  classical  or  scientific  education 
of  the  highest  grade  at  the  public  expense. 

South  of  Mt.   Tamalpais  may  be  seen  the 


Golden  Gate,  with  Alcitraz  Island,  a  naval 
station,  across  its  eastern  end. 

San  Francisco  will  have  been  recognized  on 
the  promontory  south  of  the  Golden  Gate,  and 
the  Oakland  wharf  extending  out  into  the  bay 
toward  it,  and  the  large  Island  near  the  wharf 
is  Yerba  Buena,  or  Goat  Island,  occupied  as  a 
fort  by  the  U.  S.  Army 

Oakland — 6>^  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
the  16th  Street  Station  in  West  Oakland.  But 
street-cars  or  carriages  will  convey  passengers 
to  any  part  of  the  city,  or  they  may  ride  to  the 
wharf  and  there  take  the  local  trains  for  Oak- 
land, East  Oakland  or  Alameda. 

Oakland  is  a  suburb  of  San  Francisco,  but 
rather  such  a  suburb  as  Brooklyn  is  to  New 
York.  It  is  beautiful  for  situation,  and  boasts 
a  climate  much  preferred  to  that  of  San  Fran- 
cisco; the  trade-winds  from  the  Pacific,  which 
are  fierce  and  cold,  and  often  heavy  with  fog 
there,  being  much  softened  in  crossing  the  bay. 
This  has  attracted  many  to  make  it  their  resi- 
dence, though  obliged  to  do  business  in  San 
Francisco,  and  about  15,000  passengers  daily 
cross  on  the  half-hourly  and  splendid  ferry- 
boats, and  the  number  of  trips  are  increased 
every  year.  The  population  of  the  city  in- 
creases rapidly,  and  is  nearly  50,030.  As 
measures  of  its  enterprise  and  prosperity  it  may 
be  stated  that  a  quarter  of  a  million  dollars 
were  expended  in  building  a  court-house  and 
county  jail.  There  are  three  savings  banks,  two 
national  gold  banks,  five  lines  of  hors3-cars, 
three  flouring  and  four  planing  mills,  an  iron 
and  a  brass  foundry,  two  potteries,  one  patent 
marble  works,  a  jute  bag  factory,  three  tan- 
neries and  other  establishments  employing  many 
mechanics.  On  the  public  schools,  of  which 
Oakland  is  justly  very  proud,  nearly  86,000  are 
monthly  expended,  and  nearly  a  quarter  of  a 
millions  dollars  value  in  property  is  owned  by 
the  department.  The  State  University  is  with- 
in the  city  limits.  Its  site,  which  has  been 
named  Berkeley,  is  on  the  northern  border  of 
the  city  and  has  a  direct  ferry  to  San  Francisco, 
and  many  families  are  planting  themselves  there, 
attracted  by  its  natural  beauty  and  the  educa- 
tional and  social  advantages  which  cluster 
around  it.  The  University  is  open  to  students 
of  both  sexes,  and  tuition  is  free.  The  number 
of  students  exceeds  200.  By  special  law,  the 
sale  of  intoxicating  liquors  is  forbidden  within 
two  miles  of  this  University. 

There  are  twenty  churches  in  Oakland,  of 
which  sixteen  own  houses  of  worship.  Some 
of  them  are  elegant  and  costly;  the  First  Pres- 
byterian Church  costing  over  $65,000,  and  the 
First  Congregational  a  larger  sum.  Seven 
newspapers  are  published,  two  daily,  the  rest 
weekly. 

The  rides  in  and  around  Oakland,  for  varisty 
of  attractive  features,  are  rarely  equalled.  Many 


266 


come  over  from  San  Fran- 
cisco in  the  morning  ex- 
pressly to  enjoy  this  pleas- 
ure. Lake  Merritt,  a  beau- 
tiful sheet  of  water,  is 
among  the  attractions  which 
none  fail  to  visit,  and  with 
which  thousands  have  bright 
and  happy  memories  associa- 
ted. 

Though  incorporated  as  a 
city,  Oakland  is  thoroughly 
rural.  A  very  small  portion 
of  the  business  part  around 
the  chief  railroad  station  is 
built  up  solidly,  but  every- 
where else  the  houses  stand 
detached  and  usiially  sur- 
rounded by  a  liberal  expanse 
of  gardens,  grass-plat,  and 
shrubbery  which  remind  one 
of  an  eastern  village.  Live 
oaks  abound,  and  show  by 
their  leaning  over  toward 
the  east,  the  constancy  and 
strength  of  the  summer  trade- 
winds.  Geraniums,  roses, 
fuchsias,  callas,  verbenas,  and 
many  tropical  plants  and 
flowers  grow  luxuriantly, 
never  suffering  from  outdoor 
winter  exposure,  and  finding 
a  soil  of  surpassing  richness 
and  fertility.  Fruit  trees  de- 
velop into  bearing  in  a  third 
or  half  the  time  usually  re- 
quired on  the  Atlantic  Coast. 
The  city  is  favored  with  one 
rare  advantage.  The  rail- 
road company  charge  no  fare 
on  their  local  trains,  between 
stations  within  the  city  limits. 
These  trains  are  half-hourly, 
most  of  the  day,  and  there 
are  nearly  five  miles  of  rail- 
road, and  eight  stations 
within  the  city  limits.  The 
convenience  of  this  riding 
freely  at  all  hours,  can  hard- 
ly be  understood  by  those 
who  have  not  experienced 
it.  The  line  of  the  local 
road  is  directly  through  the 
city,  and  only  local  trains 
run  upon  it,  all  other  pas- 
senger trains,  and  all  freight 
trains  taking  the  main  road 
close  to  the  water's  edge. 
Of  all  the  suburbs  of  San 
Francisco,  Oakland  is  the 
most  popular.  Its  growth 
exceeds  that  of  San  Fran- 


267 


cisco.  The  time  required  to  reach  it  from 
California  Street  is  less  than  is  required  to  get 
up-town  from  Wall  Street  in  New  York,  and 
once  reached,  the  merchant,  weary  with  the 
cares  of  the  busy  day,  may  find  a  home  with  a 
more  tropical  luxuriance  of  fruit  and  flowers, 
almost  the  same  in  summer  and  winter,  and 
scenery  scarcely  less  picturesque  than  the  banks 
of  the  Hudson  afford. 

As  the  train  curves  from  the  main  land  over 
the  water  toward  San  Francisco,  one  may  see 
on  the  left  the  extensive  shops,  car-houses,  etc., 
at  Oakland  Point.  Here  the  railroad  company 
own  about  125  acres  of  land,  and  have  exten- 
sive buildings  and  repair  shops.  On  their  dock 
they  remodel  or  build  their  ferry-boats,  the 
boats  of  the  California  Steam  Navigation  Com- 
pany, and  here  the  Western  Development  Com- 
pany build  all  the  bridges  and  frame  air*hotels, 
warehouses,  and  other  buildings  for  the  Central, 
California,  and  Southern  Pacific  Railroads. 
Several  hundred  men  are  constantly  employed. 
There  is  a  roundhouse  for  twenty-one  engines, 
and  tracks  for  the  extra  passenger  cars  needed 
at  this  important  terminus. 

A  channel  has  been  dredged  out  from  this 
yard  to  the  bay,  which  shows  plainly  from  the 
cars  on  the  left  hand.  The  train  formerly  ran 
out  on  trestle  work,  built  into  sea  water  farther 
than  any  other  in  the  world,  and  also  the  largest 
in  waters  of  this  depth,  and  the  best  built 
wooden  pier  in  the  world.  It  was  built  ten 
years  ago,  and  when  last  examined  a  few  teredo 
were  found  in  piles  without  bark;  but  the 
strength  of  the  pier  wan  not  appreciably  im- 
paired. It  is  2.8  miley  long,  including  the 
mole  and  the  trestle.  Before  the  mole  was  con- 
structed the  danger  from  fire  was  great,  and  is 
still  great  on  the  trestle  and  about  the  wharves, 
and  all  engines  employed  for  shifting  are  fitted 
with  force  pumps,  and  can  be  used  as  steam  fire 
engines  at  a  moment's  notice. 

Instead  of  going  to  sea  in  railroad  cars,  and 
risking  the  fall  of  a  worm-eaten  trestle,  the  rail- 
road company  have  provided  a  secure  and  sub- 
stantial track  from  the  town  to  the  wharf.  The 
trestle  has  been  filled  in  with  rock  and  earth  for 
a  distance  of  1.8  miles.  The  immense  under- 
taking occupied  hundreds  of  men  for  two  years, 
and  is  one  of  the  mighty  and  resolute  enter- 
prises of  the  age.  On  the  western  extremity  is 
the  Oakland  wharf,  the  finest  and  most  com- 
modious depot  on  the  coast.  The  tourist  must 
understand  its  adaptation  to  the  local  travel  as 
well  as  the  overland  passenger.  The  large 
central  building  is  120  feet  wide  and  330  feet 
long,  and  on  either  side  are  two  smaller  build- 
ings, 60  feat  wide  and  660  feet  long.  Extending 
eastward  from  the  main  central  building,  each  is 
48  feet  wide  and  330  feet  long  to  cover  the  ex- 
tension of  the  trains  beyond  the  main  building. 
The  main  building  is  for  the  Overland  and  all 


trains  except  the  Oakland  and  Alameda  local 
travel. 

In  the  second  story  of  the  main  building  are 
the  large  waiting-room  for  passengers  and  the 
offices  for  the  Division  superintendent  and  his 
associates.  From  this  waiting-room  passengers 
go  directly  on  to  the  upper  deck  of  the  ferry- 
boat. The  waiting-rooms  below  have  an  exit  to 
the  lower  deck  of  the  ferry-boat.  The  building 
has  a  crescent  arched  roof,  constructed  of  galvan- 
ized iron  and  glass — about  3-5  being  glass.  The 
arrangement  for  light  not  only  admits  it  to  the 
depot  in  general,  but  by  windows  on  a  level 
with  the  cars,  light  is  admitted  to  the  cars  in 
the  depot,  and  the  separation  of  smokers,  ped- 
lers,  etc.,  from  ladies  is  all  that  the  most  fastid- 
ious could  desire. 

Besides  complete  accommodations  for  the  or- 
dinary exigencies  of  travel,  the  local  trains  are 
so  arranged  that  the  dwellers  of  Oakland  cannot 
ride  to  the  wharf  and  return  without  paying 
fare — as  many  were  wont  to  do  prior  to  its 
erection. 

On  the  mole  there  are  eleven  tracks,  and  the 
slips  are  about  650  feet  Jong.  The  gates  and 
aprons  are~all  raised  and  lowered  by  hydraulic 
apparatus'.  ~#he  old  wharf,  a  mile  nearer  San 
Francisco,  is  used  for  freight.  There  are  three 
slips  and  four  piers,  the  latter  having  an  aggre- 
gate width  of  396  ijeet.  At  these  eight  sea-going 
ships  can  be  loaded  simultaneously.  Nearly  all 
the  lumber  for  the  whole  treeless  region  in 
Southern  California  and  Arizona  in  part  is 
loaded  from  vessels  at  this  wharf.  And  from 
this  wharf  freight  cars  cross  to  the  immense 
freight  depot  at  the  foot  of  Fourth  Street  in 
San  Francisco,  a  boat  carrying  at  once  20  loaded 
freight  cars  and  20  car  loads  of  cattle. 

There  is  fine  angling,  chiefly  for  smelt,  from 
these  wharves .  Four  or  five  of  these  fish  may 
be  caught  at  a  single  cast.  Within  two  years, 
Eastern  salmon  have  been  placed  in  these  waters, 
and  occasionally  these  are  caught.  California 
salmon  do  not  take  the  hook,  because  people 
and  fish  are  sharp  on  this  side  of  the  Continent. 

At  Oakland  wharf,  passengers  and  baggage 
are  transferred  to  i  lie  spacious  and  elegant  ferry- 
boats, on  whicli  hackmcn  and  hotel-runners  will 
be  sure  to  speak  for  themselves. 

The  distance  from  the  end  of  the  wharf  across 
the  water  to  the  ferry-house  in  San  Francisco 
is  4.4  miles,  and  is  ordinarily  made  in  twenty 
minutes.  When  the  wind  is  blowing,  none  but 
the  most  rugged  persons  should  venture  to 
stand  outside  the  cabin;  but  if  it  is  practicable 
to  gain  the  view,  there  are  many  points  of  great 
interest. 

Bay  of  San  Francisco. — The  bay  is  large 
enough  to  float  the  navies  of  the  world,  and 
beautified  by  a  rare  combination  of  island, 
mountain,  city  and  plain.  On  the  right,  pass- 
ing to  San  Francisco,  and  near  the  wharf,  L. 


268 


Goat  Island,  a  military  reservation,  and  tlie  sub- 
ject of  considerable  agitation  in  Congress.  The 
quarters  of  the  officers  and  men  are  saen  on  the 
east  side,  and  on  the  south  end  are  a  fog-bell  and 
•whistle  that  are  often  called  into  requisition. 
Tho  Golden  Gate  proper  is  north,  or  to  the  right 
of  the  city — five  miles  long  and  about  a  mile 
wide. 

It  is  strongly  fortified  at  various  points.  Al- 
catraz,  at  the  end  of  the  gate  and  entrance  to 
the  bay,  commands  the  whole  passage  from  the 
ocean. 

Angel  Island,  north  of  Alcatraz,  is  another 
military  reservation,  well  fortified.  Northwest 
of  this  maybe  seen  the  towering  peak  of  Mount 
Tamalpais,  the  highest  near  the  city.  On  tho 
right,  one  may  look  north  to  the  San  Pablo  Bay, 
and  behind  him  see  classic  Berkeley,  Oakland 
and  Alameda,  with  the  Coast  Hills  in  the  back- 
ground. South,  the  view  extends  over  the  bay 
toward  San  Jose,  and  everywhere,  except  where 
the  city  stands  and  through  the  Golden  Gate, 
it  is  shut  in  by  mountains. 

The  trade-winds  and  fogs  are  shut  out  from 
California  by  the  Coast  Range,  the  fogs  not  ris- 
ing above  1,000  feet,  and  when  they  sweep  down 
the  coast,  drive  through  the  Golden  Gate  with 
pent-up  fury.  The  heated  interior  makes  a  fun- 
nel of  this  passage  and  creates  a  demand  for  the 
lace  shawl  and  seal-skin  sacque  on  the  same  day. 

The  ferry -house  where  the  trip  across  the  Con- 
"tinent  ends,  is  well  arranged  and  provided  with 
everything  necessary  for  the  accommodation  of 
the  throngs  of  passengers  passing  through  it. 
The  baggage  department  of  the  railroad  is  here, 
and  is  connected  by  telegraph  with  every  station 
on  the  road,  giving  all  possible  facilities  for 
-tracing  stray  baggage.  The  loss  of  baggage  by 
this  railroad  company  is  n't  most  an  unknown  in- 
cident, and  the  Pacific  T.-ansfer  Company  is 
equally  reliable. 

San  Francisco. — The  ferry-boat  lands  at 
the  foot  of  Market  Street,  which  is  fast  becoming 
the  leading  business  artery  of  the  city.  ^  Every 
horse-car  line,  except  two,  either  runs  into  or 
crosses  it,  and  by  direct  communication  or  trans- 
fer, all  connect  with  tho  ferry  at  its  foot.  By 
-these  cars,  or  by  carriages  in  waiting,  the  hotels, 
•which  are  about  a  half-mile  away,  are  easily 
reached.  The  Grand,  the  Palace  hotels,  are  on 
Market,  at  the  corner  of  New  Montgomery 
Street;  the  Baldwin  on  Market  Street  corner 
of  Eddy;  the  Lick  (on  the  European  plan),  on 
Montgomery  Street  near  Market;  the  Occidental 
and  the  Euss  on  Montgomery  between  Bush 
and  Pine,  and  the  Commercial  on  New  Mont- 
gomery Avenue  corner  of  Kearney.  As  to  their 
respective  merits,  we  must  decline  to  make 
comparisons  or  give  free  advertisements.  Hotel 
coaches  charge  for  transfer  of  each  passenger 
and  baggage  from  ferry  to  hotel.  The  Transfer 
Company  will  carry  baggage  alone  for  50  cents. 


On  arriving  at  the  foot  of  Market  street,  Saa 
Francisco,  with  checks  delivered  to  the  Pacific 
Transfer  Company,  and  carriages  engaged  through 
the  messenger  of  the  same  company  that  boarded 
the  train,  one  will  soon  reach  his  destination  in 
the  city.  Street  cars  pass  the  principal  hotels, 
and  run  to  all  quarters  of  the  city.  Beginning 
on  the  south,  one  finds  the  cars  of  the  Mission- 
street  road  ;  next,  cars  through  Market  to  Fifth, 
and  Fifth  to  Townsend,  to  the  general  offices  of 
the  Central  and  Southern  Pacific  Railroads  and 
the  depot  of  the  northern  division  of  the  South- 
ern Pacific  Railroad.  These  cars  connect  by 
transfer  with  cars  for  the  Potrero  &  South  San 
Francisco.  Next  are  the  Hayes  Valley  cars, 
running  through  Market  street  to  Ninth,  thence 
through  Hayes  Valley  to  Lone  Mountain  and  the 
Golden  Gate  Park,  and  the  Market  and  Valencia 
street  cars,  through  Market  to  about  Thirteenth 
street,  and  thence  on  Valencia  to  Twenty-sixth 
street.  These  cars  connect  at  Valencia  street  by 
transfer  to  the  Market  street  extension,  running 
on  Market  to  Seventeenth  street. 

Next  are  the  cars  of  the  omnibus  line  running 
up  Market  street  a  few  blocks  to  the  Grand  Ho- 
tel and  there  transferring  in  one  direction  to 
Montgomery  street  and  North  Beach,  and  in 
another  direction  to  the  depot  of  the  northern 
division  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  and 
the  general  offices  of  the  C.  &  S.  P.  R.  R.,  and  to 
a  third  line  running  out  of  Howard  street  to 
Twenty-sixth. 

Next  are  cars  of  the  Central  road,  running 
along  Market  a  few  blocks  to  Pine,  hence  to 
Lone  Mountain,  crossing  Montgomery  and  Kear- 
ney streets  in  the  vicinity  of  the  principal  retail 
stores.  Next  are  the  cars  of  the  Sutter-street 
road,  running  up  Market  a  few  blocks  to  Sutler, 
and  then  connecting  with  a  cable  road  to  Lone 
Mountain. 

From  a  point  on  the  cable  road  at  crossing  of 
Larkin  street  transfers  are  given  to  cross  roads — 
one  running  north  on  Polk  street  and  the  other 
south  on  Larkin  street. 

Next  are  the  cars  of  the  North  Beach  and 
Mission  roads,  starting,  like  nearly  all  the  others, 
on  Market  street,  and  soon  turning  off  for  Cali- 
fornia and  Kearney  streets,  at  which  point  trans- 
fers are  given  to  the  North  Beach  or  to  the  depot 
of  the  northern  division  of  the  Southern  Pacific 
Railroad  and  the  general  offices  of  C.  &  S.  P.  R.  R. 
at  Fourth  and  Townsend  streets  or  to  cars  run- 
ning on  Folsom  street  to  Twenty-sixth. 

Lastly,  on  the  extreme  right,  is  another  car  of 
the  Central  road,  which  runs  past  the  post-office 
and  through  the  vicinity  of  the  principal  retail 
stores,  and  then  crosses  Market  street  and  down 
Sixth  street  to  Brennan. 

To  many  points  there  are  several  lines,  but  to 
ascertain  the  moat  direct  is  perplexing  to  the 
stranger.  For  such,  observe  the  following : 

For  the  Grand  and  Palace  Hotels,  Baldwin, 


269 


Lick  House  (on  Montgomery,  near  Market),  and 
any  point  on  Market  street,  take  the  cars  of  the 
Market-street  line.  For  the  Occidental  Hotel, 
Brooklyn  and  Russ  House,  take  the  two-horse 
cars  at  the  Central  road.  For  the  International 
or  Cosmopolitan  take  the  cars  of  the  North  Beach 
and  Mission  road. 

For  the  general  offices  of  the  C.  P.  &  S.  P.  R.  R. 
take  the  Market  and  Fifth  street  (one-horse)  cars 
of  the  Market-street  road,  or  the  cars  of  the  Om- 
nibus road;  for  the  United  States  Mint,  the  cars 
of  the  Market  and  Fifth  street  road ;  for  the 
post-office  and  custom-house,  take  the  one-horse 
cars  of  the  Central  road ;  for  Lone  Mountain, 
take  the  cars  of  the  Suiter-street  road ;  for  the 
Cliff  House  or  Golden  Gate  Park,  take  Market- 
street  cars  to  Geary  street,  and  then  the  Geary- 
street  cars ;  for  Woodward's  Gardens  take  the 
City  Railroad  or  the  Mission-street  cars. 

A  feature  of  San  Francisco  is  the  cable  roads. 
Of  these  there  are  six  at  present;  the  Clay-street 
Hill,  the  California-street,  the  Geary-street,  the 
Sutter-street,  the  Montgomery-avenue  and  Mar- 
ket-street. The  cable  of  the  last  only  extends 
to  the  ferry. 

The  cable-roads  are  far  preferable  to  any  other 
when  they  run  in  a  direction  to  suit  the  traveler. 
They  do  not  wear  on  the  nerves  by  compelling 
one  to  witness  cruelty  to  animals.  The  cars 
make  better  speed  than  the  horse-cars,  and  climb 
steep  hills  with  perfect  ease  and  descend  with 
like  safety.  The  cable  is  a  wire-rope,  three 
inches  in  circumference.  It  runs  in  an  iron  tube 
beneath  the  surface  of  the  street,  and  between 
the  rails.  An  open  slit,  three-quarters  of  an  inch 
wide,  is  seen,  allowing  an  iron  arm  to  pass  down 
from  the  car  or  "  dummy."  This  arm  is  made 
to  catch  the  cable  by  a  secure  grip,  or  is  instantly 
released  by  an  operator  or  engineer  on  the  dummy. 
Of  these  roads,  the  California-street  is  the  pride 
of  the  city.  The  road-bed  is  solid  masonry  or 
concrete,  and  the  frame-work  solid  iron.  The 
tourist  should  not  fail  to  see  these  roads.  The 
Clay-street  road  passes  over  the  highest  elevation 
in  the  city,  and  the  California-street  road  passes 
the  palatial  residences  of  Governor  Stanford, 
Charles  Crocker,  Mrs.  Hopkins,  and  others. 
Whether  the  overland  traveler  resorts  to  a  hotel 
or  to  the  home  of  friends,  the  change  from  a 
week  in  the  railroad  cars  to  hospitable  quarters 
and  richly  spread  tables  will  be  so  grateful  as  at 
first  to  dispel  all  consciousness  of  fatigue;  but 
tired  nature  will  assert  herself,  and  the  balance 
of  the  day  after  arrival  be  probably  given  to 
rest. 

Perhaps  the  luxury  of  a  Turkish  bath  should 
be  had  at  the  earliest  moment.  "The  Ham- 
mam,"  erected  by  Senator  Jones  on  Dupont 
Street,  near  Market,  at  a  cost  of  nearly  $200,000, 
is  in  truly  Oriental  style.  The  building  is  an 
ornament  to  the  city,  and  in  it  dusty  travelers 
will  experience  mingled  wonder  and  delight  at 


its  Mohammedan  architecture,  perfect  appoint- 
ments, and  complete  adaptation  to  restore  a 
sense  of  cleanliness  and  give  solid  refreshment 
to  both  body  and  spirit. 

Thus  refreshed  and  looking  about  next  morn- 
ing, there  confronts  the  traveler  a  city,  the 
growth  of  twenty-seven  years,   which   counts 
234,000  inhabitants,  and  covers  a  territory  of 
forty -two  square  miles.     On  its  eastern  front  it 
extends  along  the  bay,  whose  name  it  bears,  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Golden  Gate,  and 
on  the  west  washed  by  the  Pacific  Ocean  along 
a  beach  extending  five  or  six  miles.     From  the 
Golden  Gate  on  the  north,  to  the  city  and 
county-line  on  the  south,  is  a  distance  of  about 
seven  miles,  and  the  same  from  the  bay  across 
to  the  ocean.     The  surface  is  varied  by  hills, 
several  of  which  have  been  built  upon,  and  from 
whose  summit  commanding  views  may  be  ob- 
tained.    Telegraph  Hill  looks  down    on    the 
point  where  the  Golden  Gate  leads  into  the  bay 
and  harbor.     Clay  Street  Hill  is  farther  south 
and  west,  and  may  be  ascended  by  the  cable-road. 
This  hill  extends  some  distance  southward,  and 
makes  the  streets  crossing  Montgomery  to  the 
west,  steep,  and  some  almost  impracticable  for 
wheeled  vehicles.     Along  its  heights  some  of  the 
railroad  directors  and  others  have  erected,  or  are 
erecting,  princely  dwellings.     That  of  Governor 
Stanford  is  perhaps  unsurpassed  in  almost  every 
respect.     Rincon  Hill  is  in  the  southern  part  of 
the  city,  and  slopes  down  to  the  water's  edge. 
Until  a  recent  period,  it  was  noted  for  elegant, 
private  dwellings  and  grounds ;  but  these  are 
now  found  in  all  directions,  more  clustering,  how- 
ever, around  Clay  Street  Hill,  perhaps,  than  else- 
where.    The  growth  of  the  city  is  rather  toward 
the  west  than  the  south. 

Russian  Hill  is  west  and  north  of  Telegraph 
Hill,  and  looks  down  toward  the  Golden  Gate  and 
what  is  called  the  North  Beach,  a  portion  of 
the  city  less  in  favor  of  late  years  than  formerly. 
Smelting  works,  woolen  factories,  potteries,  ar- 
tificial stone-works  and  establishments  of  this 
general  character,  have  clustered  here. 

San  Francisco  is  very  regularly  laid  out. 
There  are  two  systems  of  streets,  between  which 
Market  Street  is  the  dividing  line.  North  of 
Market  the  streets  are  mostly  70  feet  wide,  cross 
at  right  angles  and  run  almost  north  and  south, 
east  and  west,  and  the  blocks  are  150  varas  or 
275  feet  wide,  and  150  var  ,s  or  412  1-2  feet  long, 
the  length  being  east  and  west.  Market  Street 
runs  about  north-east  and  southwest.  South  of 
it  the  streets  for  over  a  mile  from  the  city  front, 
run  parallel  with  it  or  at  right  angles.  At  about  a 
mile  from  the  city  front  these  parallel  streets  grad- 
ually curve  toward  the  south  till  they  run  almost 
north  and  south.  This  change  of  course  was  caus- 
ed by  the  low  Mission  Hills  there  lifting  them- 
selves, and  by  the  tendency  of  travel  along  the  nar- 
row peninsula  toward  the  country  beyond  it.  The* 


270 


streets  south  of  Market  are,  some  of  them,  very 
broad  and  some  quite  narrow.  This  portion  of 
the  city  was  laid  out  originally  with  very  wide 
streets  and  in  blocks  200  varas  or  550  feet  wide, 
and  300  varas  or  825  feet  long,  but  these  proved 
too  large,  and  it  became  necessary  to  cut  them  up 
by  intervening  streets,  which  have  no  element  of 


SAN  FKANCISCO  MINT. 


regularity  except  parallelism  with  the  others. 
The  streets  are  all  numbered  from  the  city  front, 
or  from  Market  Street,  100  numbers  being  al- 
lowed to  each  block  after  the  first,  to  which  only 
99  are  assigned,  the  even  numbers  always  on  the 
right  hand  as  the  numbers  run.  To  find  ap- 
proximately any  number  on  the  streets  south 
of  Market,  subtract  400  to  ascertain  the  cross 
street;  e.  g.,  706  Howard  Street  is  near  Third 
and  Howard.  It  is  thus  easy  to  locate  any 
street  and  number.  There  are  a  few  avenues, 
but  with  the  exception  of  Van  Ness,  which  is 
125  feet  wide,  and  built  up  handsomely,  and 
Montgomery  Avenue,  which  is  laid  out  to  pro- 
vide easy  access  to  the  North  Beach  portion 
of  the  city,  they  are  usually  short  and  narrow, 
or  in  the  most  newly  laid  out  portion  of  the  city, 
not  yet  built  up. 

The  heavy  wholesale  business  of  the  city  is 
done  along  the  water  front  and,  mostly  north  of 
Market  Street,  extending  back  three  or  four 
streets  from  the  front  to  where  banks,  brokers, 
insurance  companies  and  office  business  generally 
have  become  established,  the  same  territory 
south  of  this  street  being  occupied  by  lumber 
merchants,  planing  mills,  foundries,  and  machine 
shops.  Retail  business  of  all  kinds  is  done 
along  Kearney,  the  southern  part  of  Montgom- 
ery, the  upper  part  of  Market,  and  along  Third 
and  Fourth  Streets.  Markets  are  scattered 
through  the  city.  The  Central  is  near  Kearney 
to  the  west  on  Sutter  Street,  and  the  Calif ornian 
between  Kearney  and  Montgomery  Streets  ex- 
tending through  from  Pine  to  California.  Both 
are  worth  visiting,  and  display  everything  in  the 
market  line  in  rich  profusion  and  perfect  neat- 


ness and  order.  Pine,  California  and  Mont- 
gomery streets,  at  their  junctions,  are  the  great 
resort  of  the  crowd  dealing  in  stocks.  All  sorts 
of  men  may  be  seen  there,  between  9  A.  M.  and 
6  P.  M.  ,  hovering  around  quotations  displayed 
on  various  brokers'  bulletin-boards,  and  talking 
mines,  for  speculation  centers  in  mining  shares. 
Kearney  Street,  and  Market,  from  Fifth  to 
Montgomery,  are  the  favorite  promenade  of 
ladies,  and  especially  on  Saturday  afternoons, 
the  Hebrew  holiday,  when  a  profusion  of  them, 
richly  dressed  and  bejeweled,  may  be  met  there. 

The  theaters  are  all  near  this  region.  Two  of 
them  are  quite  new.  The  Grand  Opera  House 
boasts  the  finest  chandelier  on  earth,  and  Bald- 
win's Academy  of  Music  is  claimed  to  be  unsur- 
passed on  this  Continent,  in  beauty  of  interior 
decoration  and  finish. 

Sidewalks  throughout  the  city  are  wide  and 
good.  Most  are  of  plank,  many  of  asphaltum, 
which  is  well  suited  to  the  climate,  the  heat 
rarely  being  sufficient  to  soften  it.  A  few  are  of 
cut  stone  or  artificial  stone.  The  last  material 
is  fast  coming  into  favor  for  many  uses.  Streets 
are  paved  with  cobbles,  Russ  pavement  and  plank, 
and  off  from  lines  of  heavy  business  teaming,  are 
macadamized.  Wooden  pavements  are  retained 
in  many,  but  are  not  approved.  The  Nicholson 
pavement  cannot  be  long  kept  down.  It  shrinks 
during  the  long  dry  summer,  and  with  the  first 
heavy  rains  swells  and  is  thrown  hopelessly  out 
6f  place.  Good  paving  material  is  not  abundant, 
and  the  question  is  yet  unanswered,  what  shall 
be  the  pavement  of  San  Francisco  in  the  future? 

The  water  supply  comes  chiefly  from  reservoirs 
in  the  Coast  Range  Mountains  south  of  the  city, 
and  is  controlled  by  the  Spring  Valley  Water 
Company.  The  rates  are  double  and  treble 
those  charged  in  New  York  City,  and  are  due 
monthly  in  advance.  Many  families  pay  more 


BANK  OF  CALIFORNIA. 


PUBLIC  BUILDINGS  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

1.-- City  Park.    2.— New  City  Hall.    3.— General  View  of  City,  looking  towards  the  Bay. 
4. — Merchants'  Exchange.    5. — View  on  Market  Street. 


272 


for  their  water  than  for  their  bread.     It  should  ' 
be  borne  in  mind,  however,  that  some  families 
use  much  more  water  for  irrigating  gardens  and 
grass-plats,  than  for  all  household  purposes. 

The  only  government  buildings  in  San  Fran- 
cisco finished  and  in  use,  and  worfch  visiting, 
are  the  United  States  Mint,  on  Fifth  Street, 
near  Market;  the  Appraiser's  Store,  on  Wash- 
ington and  Sansome,  is  a  beautiful  structure  of 
brick  and  sandstone.  The  machinery  of  the 
Mint  is  believed  to  be  unapproached  in  perfec- 
tion and  efficiency.  Visitors  are  admitted 


and  occupied  by  the  United  States  Sub- 
Treasury. 

A  City  Hall  of  elegant  design  is  in  process  of 
construction,  situated  on  McAllister  Street, 
near  Market.  It  is  occupied,  and  when  com- 
pleted, the  cost  will  be  in  the  millions. 

The  Nevada  Block,  the  Safe  Deposit  Building, 
the  Anglo-Californian  and  the  California  Bank, 
the  Mercantile  Library  and  Merchants'  Ex- 
change, all  combine  pleasing  and  impressive 
features  and  are  thoroughly  built  and  costly 
erections.  The  building,  corner  of  California 


"  HOODLUMS." 


between  10  and  12  A.  M.,  and  here  may  be  found 
a  valuable  collection  of  coins,  including  many 
rare  ones.  A  "one  cent"  of  1804  was  purchased 
for  this  collection  at  a  cost  of  $1,500. 

The  Post-Office  on  Washington  Street,  near 
Sansome,  adjoining  the  Appraiser's  Store,  and 
the  Custom  House,  in  the  same  building, 
although  the  former  has  been  lately  remodeled, 
are  unworthy  the  city  and  the  nation. 

The  old  United  States  Mint  on  Commercial 
Street,  near  Montgomery,  has  been  rebuilt,  and 
though  not  an  elegant  structure,  is  substantial, 


and  Montgomery  streets,  occupied  by  "Wells, 
Fargo  and  Co.'s  Express,  was  the  first  sub- 
stantial erection  in  the  city.  It  was  imported 
from  China,  where  the  stone  was  all  cut  and 
fitted,  ready  for  its  place. 

Phelan's  Block,  on  Market  Street,  corner  of 
O'Farrell,  is  one  of  the  most  imposing,  sub- 
stantial and  elegant  in  the  city. 

The  average  number  of  new  houses  erected 
in  the  city  since  1870,  has  exceeded  1,000,  but 
during  each  of  the  last  three  years  not  half 
this  average  was  reached. 


SCENES  IN   THE  HARBOR  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


274 


One  feature  of  San  Francisco  architecture  is 
"bay -windows.  Few  private  houses  are  without 
them,  and  the  last  built  hotels,  the  Grand,  the 
Palace,  and  Baldwin's,  have  their  whole  surface 
studded  with  them,  to  the  great  comfort  of  their 
guests,  and  equal  defacement  of  their  external 
appearance.  San  Francisco  is  called  the  Bay 
City.  It  might  well  be  named  the  "bay-win- 
dow city."  The  mildness  of  the  climate  and 
the  instinctive  craving  for  sunshine  are  consid- 
erations which  will  always  make  bay-windows  a 
desirable  and  a  favorite  feature  here. 

A  stranger  will  observe  here  the  great  num- 
ber of  restaurants  and  furnished  lodgings.  A 
large  proportion  of  the  population  live  in  lodg- 
ings and  go  out  for  their  meals.  The  tendency 
to  a  more  settled  mode  of  life,  however,  in- 
creases, and  a  great  number  of  private  dwell- 
ings have  been  erected  by  individuals  and 
building  associations  of  late  years. 

A  great  conflagration  may  overtake  any  city, 
but  this  is  more  secure  than  its  wooden  appear- 
ance indicates.  Owing  to  the  dampness  from 
summer  fogs  and  winter  rains,  and  the  liability 
of  injury  by  earthquakes,  wood  is  the  only  de- 
sirable material  for  dwellings.  Nearly  all  used 
is  the  sequoia,  or  redwood,  so  abundant  in  the 
Coast  Range.  It  burns  very  slowly,  compared 
with  Eastern  woods,  and  the  city  has  a  very 
efficient  steam  fire  department. 

The  city  cemeteries  are  yet  west  of  the 
best  residences,  and  reached  by  the  Geary 
Street,  Sutter  Street,  or  California  Street  rail- 
ways, but  agitation  has  already  commenced 
looking  to  an  end  of  interments  within  city  lim- 
its. Lone  Mountain,  an  isolated  mound  with- 
in the  Roman  Catholic  Cemetery  and  surmounted 
by  a  large  cross,  lately  blown  down,  has  long  been 
a  noted  landmark  and  gives  its  name  to  the  re- 
gion adjoining,  which  is  devoted  to  burying 
grounds. 

South  from  Lone  Mountain  lies  the  Golden 
Gate  Park,  in  which  the  city  justly  takes  great 
pride,  and  which  is  destined  to  become  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  of  city  pleasure  grounds  in 
the  United  States.  It  was  a  waste  of  sand  only 
five  or  six  years  since,  but,  by  careful  planting 
of  the  yellow  lupin,  the  sand  is  subdued,  and 
by  irrigation,  grass-plats  have  been  created,  and 
a  forest  of  trees  brought  rapidly  forward.  The 
drives  are  fine,  and,  on  pleasant  days,  thousands 
of  carriages  resort  here.  Driving  is  a  Californi- 
an's  weak  point,  and  more  money  is  expended  by 
him  on  livery  and  private  stables  in  proportion 
to  his  means  and  other  expenditures,  than  by  his 
brother-citizens  of  the  "  States."  It  is  a  natural 
result  of  plentiful  money,  long  distances  and  few 
railroads.  Racing  is  also  much  in  vogue,  and  a 
fine  race-track  is  laid  out,  near  Lone  Mountain, 
in  full  view  from  the  Park. 

All  the  religious  denominations  are  well  repre- 
sented, and  there  are  some  fine  buildings  for 


worship,  among  which  the  Synagogue  on  Sut- 
ter, the  First  Congregational  Church  on  Post, 
and  St.  Patrick's  Cathedral  on  Mission  Street, 
are  most  notable. 

But  the  most  imposing  church  edifice  in  the 
city  is  St.  Ignatius  Church  and  College  on  Hayes 
Street  near  Market.  The  entire  structure  covers 
a  block,  and  the  cost  was  $750,000.  It  is  under 
the  control  of  the  Jesuits. 

Benevolent  mutual  societies  and  secret  orders 
are  very  numerous.  Particulars  concerning  them 
and  the  churches  may  be  found  in  the  city 
directory.  The  free  schools  of  the  city  are  a 
just  source  of  pride.  They  are  provided  for 
with  a  liberality,  and  conducted  with  a  skill, 
which  make  them  of  incalculable  value  to  the 
city  in  all  its  interests. 

The  Mercantile  Library,  the  Mechanics'  and 
the  Odd  Fellows',  are  large  and  valuable,  and 
the  use  of  them  may  be  obtained  on  easy  terms. 

A  Free  Library  has  been  opened  on  Bush 
Street,  between  Kearney  and  Fleet  (formerly 
Dupont)  streets,  from  which  books  may  be  taken 
without  charge.  It  is  the  most  popular  library 
in  the  city,  and  as  its  funds  are  derived  from 
a  general  tax,  its  growth  is  rapid. 

Among  bookstores,  many  are  prominent. 
C.  Beach,  Billings  and  Harbourne  and  J.  Hoff- 
man are  on  Montgomery  Street.  On  Market 
Street  are  Bancroft  &  Co.,  with  a  spacious  and 
elegant  edifice  in  which  all  departments  of  book- 
making  are  carried  on,  and  valuable  law-books 
published.  Bibles  and  religious  books  are 
represented  by  the  American  Tract  Society  and 
California  Bible  Society  in  the  "Bible  House" 
on  Market  Street,  and  the  Methodist  Book  Con- 
cern, in  their  own  edifice  on  the  same  street. 

Strangers,  properly  introduced,  are  granted 
the  privilege  of  the  library  and  reading-room 
of  the  Mercantile  Library  on  Bush  Street  near 
Montgomery,  free  for  a  month,  and  odd  hours 
can  be  put  in  there  very  pleasantly,  especially  in 
the  reading-room,  which  is  light,  cheerful,  and 
supplied  with  the  best  papers,  magazines,  and 
reviews  of  this  and  other  lands. 

_  Excursions.— For  sight-seeing  in  San  Fran- 
cisco, no  plan  will  suit  the  convenience  of  every 
one,  but  the  best  for  a  few  days  is  the  following: 

Let  the  morning  be  spent  in  a  ride  to  the 
Cliff  House,  where  a  good  breakfast  may  be  ob- 
tained, if  not  had  sooner.  The  Cliff  House 
Road  is  the  shortest  route  and  is  unsurpassed  as 
a  drive.  The  shell-road  of  New  Orleans  is  no 
better.  But  the  road  through  the  Golden  Gate 
Park  is  splendidly  macadamized,  and  should 
be  traveled  either  going  or  returning.  A  drive 
should  be  taken  along  the  beach  to  "  Ocean 
House, "  and  a  return  made  to  the  city,  through 
and  over  the  hills.  Coming  into  the  city  by 
this  road,  there  bursts  into  view  one  of  the  most 
magnificent  sights  on  the  coast.  The  city,  the 
bay,  Oakland  and  a  vast  extent  of  mountain, 


273 


valley,  loveliness  of  nature  and  art,  are  spread 
out  below.  If  the  Park  can  be  reserved  for  a 
separate  drive,  go  by  the  Cliff  House  Road;  if  not, 
go  by  the  Park.  The  Cliff  House  may  be  reached, 
also,  by  the  Geary  Street  cable-road  and  omni- 
buses. The  cost  of  a  carriage  for  four  persons 
will  be  $10.00  for  the  trip — by  omnibus  and 
cars,  about  a  dollar  for  each  person.  The 
trip  should  be  made  as  early  as  possible  to  avoid 
the  wind  and  fog. 

The  afternoon  may  be  spent  at  Woodward's 
Gardens,  making  sure  of  the  feeding  of  sea-lions 
at  1  or  3:30  o'clock.  The  aquarium  is  unique, 
suggested  by  one  in  Berlin,  and  has  nothing  like 
it  in  America.  Birds,  animals  of  various  kinds, 
fruits,  flowers,  museum,  art  gallery  and  many 
other  objects  of  attraction,  make  these  gardens 
one  of  the  chief  attractions  to  tourists.  They 
represent  the  Pacific  Coast  in  its  animals  and 
curiosities  better  than  any  other  collection. 

There  are  always  new  attractions  in  the  way 
of  plants  and  animals,  and  on  every  Saturday 
and  Sunday  afternoon  a  theatrical  entertain- 
ment. 

Another  morning,  go  up  Clay  Street  Hill  in 
the  cars,  and  ride  to  the  end  of  the  route.  Fine 
views  will  be  seen  of  the  city  and  bay,  from 
many  points,  and  some  handsome  residences 
will  be  passed.  Clay  Street  Hill  is  the  highest 
point  in  the  city  reached  by  cars,  but  the  ride 
on  the  California  Street  cable-road  will  be  the 
most  interesting  because  the  finest  residences 
in  the  city  are  on  this  street — among  them  being 
Mrs.  Hopkins',  Gov.  Stanford's  and  Mr.  Charles 
Crocker's.  On  descending,  climb  Telegraph 
Hill  on  foot,  the  only  way  in  which  it  can  be 
done,  and  enjoy  the  view  in  all  directions.  After 
lunch  take  the  Market  Street  cars,  and  ride  to 
Twenty-first  Street.  At  Sixteenth  Street,  one 
will  be  near  the  old  Mission  Church,  an  adobe 
building  dedicated  in  1776.  Having  reached 
Twenty -first  Street  cross  to  Folsom,  and  return 
in  the  North  Beach  and  Mission  cars  to  the  city, 
leaving  them  where  they  cross  Market,  or  at  the 
end  of  their  route,  corner  of  California  and 
Montgomery.  These  rides  will  take  one  through 
the  portion  of  the  city  rapidly  growing  and  ex- 
tending toward  the  southwest.  There  will  be 
time,  after  returning,  to  walk  about  Kearney  and 
Montgomery  streets,  near  Market,  also  up  and 
down  Market,  and  see  the  finest  retail  stores, 
and  look  at  new  buildings. 

Another  day  one  can  go  to  Oakland  early, 
take  a  carriage  at  Broadway  Station  and  ride  to 
Berkley,  Piedmont,  and  through  Brooklyn  or 
East  Oakland  to  Fruit  Vale,  or  along  Lake  Mer- 
ritt,  up  and  down  streets  and  around  the  city 
at  pleasure.  Fine  houses,  beautiful  grounds, 
good  roads,  flowers,  shade  trees  and  pleasant 
sights  are  everywhere.  Returning  to  the  city 
in  season  for  the  4  p.  M.  boat  up  the  Sacramento 
River,  one  can  take  it  as  far  as  Martinez,  a  two 


and  a  half  or  three  hours'  ride,  and  see  the 
northern  part  of  San  Francisco  Bay,  San  Pablo 
Bay,  Benicia  and  Suisun  Bay,  leaving  the  boat 
at  Martinez  and  there  spending  the  night.  Early 
next  morning  a  stage  will  take  one  to  Mount 
Diablo,  and  three  hours  can  be  spent  on  its 
summit  enjoying  as  fine  a  view  as  there  is  any- 
where in  California,  after  which  the  boat  or  train 
can  be  reached  in  season  to  be  in  San  Francisco 
for  the  night,  or  one  can  stay  for  the  night  at  a 
good  hotel  near  the  summit,  see  the  sun  rise, 
and  return  to  San  Francisco  the  next  night. 
The  fare  for  this  round  trip  is  ten  dollars. 

Alameda  and  Oakland  can  be  visited  the  same 
day,  or  half  a  day  can  be  spent  in  Alameda,  in- 
cluding a  salt-water  bath,  the  facilities  for 
which  are  convenient  and  ample.  Many  hun- 
dreds bathe  there  in  a  single  day. 

To  Alameda  and  Oakland  one  has  choice  of 
three  routes.  (1)  The  C.  P.  R.  R.  ferry.  (2) 
The  Creek  Route  to  the  foot  of  Broadway,  Oak- 
land (the  favorite  route  for  carriages)  owned 
also  by  the  C.  P.  R.  R.  Company,  and,  (3)  the 
South  Pacific  Coast  Narrow  Gauge  Railroad. 

The  time  and  fare  are  the  same  by  all  the  roads, 
and  all  start  from  the  foot  of  Market  Street. 

Most  of  San  Francisco  has  now  been  seen.  It 
would  be  well  to  ride  through  Van  Ness  Avenue 
and  see  the  fine  residences  there;  but  one  will 
begin  to  think  of  San  Jose,  Monterey,  Santa 
Cruz,  the  Geysers,  etc.  Another  forenoon  can 
be  spent  pleasantly  in  the  city  by  taking  horse- 
cars  through  the  fast-growing  western  addition 
to  the  city,  to  the  end  of  the  route  at  Laurel  Hill 
Cemetery,  and  walking  about  there  for  an  hour. 
Returning  in  season  to  get  off  near  the  United 
States  Mint,  at  corner  of  5th  and  Market  Streets, 
by  11  A.  M.,  one  can  visit  that  institution,  which  is 
daily  open  for  visitors  until  noon.  In  the  after- 
noon, at  3.25,  one  may  go  to  San  Jose.  The 
route  leads  through  beautiful  villages,  some  of 
which  have  been  selected  for  the  residence,  most, 
if  not  all  the  year,  of  wealthy  gentlemen  of  San 
Francisco.  San  Jose  will  be  reached  in  season 
for  a  walk  or  ride  about  the  city.  The  Auzerais 
House  is  a  first-class  hotel,  and  carriages  can  be 
obtained  there  at  reasonable  rates.  The  Court- 
House  and  State  Normal  School  are  the  chief 
public  buildings.  General  Naglee's  grounds,  which 
are  open  to  visitors,  except  on  Sunday,  are  well 
worth  a  visit. 

If  time  allows,  one  may,  by  taking  a  private 
carriage,  go  to  the  New  Almaden  Quicksilver 
Mines,  enjoy  a  fine  ride,  gaze  upon  a  wide-spread- 
ing view  upon  the  summit  of  the  hill,  in  which 
the  mines  are  situated,  see  the  whole  under- 
ground process  of  mining,  provided  the  superin- 
tendent will  grant  a  permit  to  enter  them,  which 
is  not  likely,  and  return  to  San  Jose  the  same 
day,  or  if  not  able  to  afford  time  for  this,  can  go 
over  to  Santa  Clara  by  horse-car,  through  the 
shady  Alameda,  three  miles  long,  laid  out  and 


277 


planted  in  1799,  by  the  Padres  of  the  mission, 
visit  the  two  colleges  there,  one  Methodist,  the 
other  Roman  Catholic,  and  return  in  season  for 
the  morning  train  to  Gilroy,  Watson ville,  etc., 
and  reach  Monterey  the  same  night;  or,  if  tima 
will  not  allow  of  doing  this,  he  may  spend  a 
little  more  time  at  San  Jose  and  Santa  Clara, 
ride  out  to  Alum  Bock  Springs,  through  the 
Shaded  Avenue,  the  prettiest  drive  in  the  State, 
and,  taking  the  afternoon  train,  reach  San  Fran- 
cisco at  5:35  p.  M. 

Whoever  goes  to  Monterey  and  Santa  Cruz 
•will  want  to  stay  there  two  nights  and  a  day,  at 
least,  and  there  are  so  many  charming  rides  and 
resorts  near  these  watering-places  of  the  Pacific 
Coast,  that  many  days  can  ba  spent  there  very 
agreeably.  The  trip  back  to  the  city  may  ba 
made  by  steamboat,  and  is  a  pleasant  variety  for 
those  who  are  not  afraid  of  a  short  exposure  to 
ocean  waves  and  tossing. 

Bat  every  one  must  go  to  Monterey,  the 
old  capital,  but  now  the  Long  Branch  and  Cape 
May  of  the  Pacific.  For  scenery,  for  climate, 
for  beautiful  drives,  for  hunting,  trout-fishing, 
sea-fishing,  for  bathing,  for  hotel  comforts — in 
short,  to  see  and  enjoy  one  of  the  greatest 
wonders  in  California,  go  to  the  "  Hotel  Del 
Monte  "  and  Monterey.  One  trip  may  combine 
Monterey  and  Santa  Cruz,  for  they  are  on  op- 
posite sides  of  the  same  bay. 

The  next  trip  will  naturally  be  to  the  Geysers 
and  the  Petrified  Forest — this  must  include 
either  Napa  and  Russian  River  Valleys,  or  both. 
Where  only  one  valley  is  to  be  seen,  the  Napa  is 
far  preferable,  both  on  account  of  the  higher 
state  of  cultivation  and  natural  scenery.  The 
road  from  Calistoga  to  the  Geysers  overlooks 
the  Russian  River  Valley,  but  the  Napa  Valley 
can  be  seen  only  by  going  via  Calistoga. 

The  Petrified  Forest  is  on  this  route,  about 
two  miles  from  the  direct  road,  and  at  Calistoga 
there  are  the  Warm  Springs,  and  near  St.  Helena 
the  White  Sulphur  Springs,  which,  before  the 
opening  of  the  Hotel  Del  Monte  at  Monterey, 
•were  the  most  delightful  and  fashionable  resort 
in  California. 

On  each  route  there  are  two  trains  a  day  dur- 
ing the  summer  season,  but  the  morning  train 
via  the  Russian  River  Valley  and  Cloverdale  is 
far  preferable  to  the  afternoon  train,  for  the 
former  goes  via  San  Rafael,  and  is  almost  wholly 
by  rail.  The  latter  includes  thirty-five  -miles  by 
steamer.  The  route  via  San  Rafael  and  Clover- 
dale  is  about  two  and  a  half  hours  shorter  than 
the  route  via  Napa. 

Two  days  and  one  night  are  sufficient  to  visit 
the  Geysers  and  Petrified  trees,  without  stop- 

§ing    at    San    Rafael  or  the  White  Sulphur 
prings .    Returning  from  the  Geysers  to  Clover- 
dale,  the  stages  of  the  celebrated  driver  "Foss" 
make  a  detour  to  the  Petrified  Trees,  when 
tickets  include  this  interesting  spot.      The  fare 


to  the  Geysers  and  return  is  813.00.     To  go  one 
and  return  the  other  route  will  cost  816.00. 

As  the  time  of  tourists  is  variously  limited,  it 
is  well  to  say  that  the  time  required  for  all  the 
trips  above  described  is  eleven  days,  allowing 
two  days  for  Monterey  and  Santa  Cruz.  Not 
all  persons  have  so  much  time  to  spend.  By 
omitting  the  visit  to  Santa  Cruz  and  White 
Sulphur  Springs,  one  may  save  two  days,  and 
by  omitting,  also,  the  trip  to  Mt.  Diablo,  the 
western  addition  to  the  city,  and  the  United 
States  Mint,  one  may  save  three  days  more,  start- 
ing for  the  Geysers,  after  spending  three  day  a  in 
the  city  and  seeing  the  Cliff  House,  Golden  Gate 
Park,  Woodward's  Gardens,  climbing  Telegraph 
Hill  and  Clay  Street  Hill,  seeing  the  Mission 
and  southwestern  part  of  the  city,  and  passing 
most  of  a  day  in  Oakland.  Should  one  do  this, 
it  would  be  well  to  fill  out  the  day  begun  in 
Oakland,  by  going  through  Van  Ness  Avenue, 
which  is,  and  long  will  be,  the  finest  street  for 
private  residences  in  the  city.  Two  days  more 
will  enable  one  to  visit  the  Geysers,  and  thus,  in 
seven  days,  all  that  is  most  notable  in  and  about 
San  Francisco,  will  have  been  seen. 

Tourists  who  have  time  enough  for  it  will  find 
a  trip  to  Pescadero,  very  pleasant.  The  route  is 
by  stage  from  San  Mateo  or  Redwood  City,  on 
the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad,  across  the  Contra 
Costa  Range,  a  ride  very  well  paying  of  itself 
for  the  whole  cost  of  the  trip.  Pescadero  is  in  & 
narrow  valley,  about  three  miles  from  the 
famous  Pebble  Beach,  about  100  yards  long, 
which  gives  it  its  chief  attraction.  Most  home- 
like quarters  and  delightful  cooking  are  found 
at  Swanton's,  and  one  will  be  taken  to  the  beach 
and  brought  back  from  it  at  hours  of  his  own 
choosing.  At  this  beach  one  will  linger  and 
linger,  picking  up  finely-polished  pebbles,  many 
of  which  are  fit  to  be  set  as  jewels.  Pescadero 
may  be  reached  also  by  stage  from  Santa  Cruz, 
and  the  ride  along  the  coast  is  wild,  interesting, 
unique  and  full  of  interest.  The  time  required 
is  a  day,  whether  coming  from  San  Francisco  or 
Santa  Cruz,  and  the  same  to  return,  and  no  one 
will  spend  less  than  a  day  there,  so  that  to  see 
Pescadero  means  three  days,  and  there  are  few 
more  enjoyable  ways  to  spend  so  much  time. 

Climate. — The  climate  of  San  Francisco  is 
peculiar,  and  can  not  be  described  in  a  few 
words.  It  is  equable  on  the  whole,  there  being 
no  great  range  of  temperature,  and  the  diffei'ence 
between  that  of  winter  and  summer  being  smalL 
Rain  falls  only  in  the  winter  half  of  the  year, 
and  does  not  much  exceed  one-half  of  the  amount 
in  the  same  latitude  on  the  Atlantic  shore,  and 
the  number  of  rainy  days  is  very  small,  since  it 
is  apt  to  rain  hard  if  it  rains  at  all.  The  atmos- 
phere in  winter  is  quite  moist,  and  though  it  is 
seemingly  dry  in  summer,  during  the  long  ab- 
sence  of  rain,  pianos  and  furniture,  and  wood' 
work  generally  do  not  shrink  as  in  many  places, 


278 


wing,  doubtless,  to  the  prevailing  cool  winds 
:om  the  ocean.  It  is  rarely  cold  enough  for 
frost ;  plumber's  work  needs  no  protection,  and 
hot  days  are  equally  rare,  occurring  only  when 
the  summer  ocean  winds  yield  for  two,  or  at  most 
three  days,  to  winds  from  over  parched  and  heated 
plains  to  the  north.  The  air  is  rarely  clear  so  as 
to  reveal  distinctly  the  outlines  of  hill  and  shore 
across  the  bay,  a  misty  haze  like  that  of  eastern 
Indian  summer,  usually  prevailing.  After  rains, 
and  notably  after  frosts,  and  during  the  preva- 
lence of  winds  from  the  north  this  sometimes 
vanishes,  and  a  crystal  clearness  of  atmosphere 
succeeds,  in  which  'Mount  Diablo  and  the  hills  of 
Contra  Costa  and  Alameda  stand  out  mellow  and 
clear  as  though  just  at  hand.  At  such  times, 
•which  are  not  frequent,  and  at  others,  more  often, 
when  it  is  sunshiny  and  the  air  is  calm,  and 
the  haze  thin,  there  is  a  spring  and  vitality  and 
exhilaration  in  the  air,  and  beauty  in  all  out- 
door nature  not  often  surpassed.  Something  of 
this  is  realized  in  the  early  part  of  most  summer 
days,  if  fog  does  not  hang  over  the  city.  As  the 
day  advances,  the  wind  from  the  ocean  rises  and 
pours  in  mightily,  cold  and  fierce — a  bane  and  a 
blessing  at  once  ;  a  bane  because  it  destroys  all 
enjoyment  ot  out-door  existence,  but  a  blessing 
because  bearing  away  noxious  exhalations,  and 
securing  health  even  to  the  most  crowded  and 
neglected  quarters  and  thoroughfares. 

There  are  few  days  in  San  Francisco  when  it 
is  safe  to  dispense  with  outer  wrappings,  and 
when  a  fire  is  not  needed  morning  and  evening, 
both  for  health  and  comfort,  and  fewer  yet  when 
a  room  with  the  sun  shining  into  it  is  not  amply 
warm  enough  while  it  shines.  Sunshine  is 
therefore  earnestly  coveted,  and  many  are  the 
regrets  of  those  who  do  not  enjoy  it.  It  is  rare 
for  persons  to  seek  the  shady  side  of  the  street, 
instinct  suggests  the  contrary.  Rooms  are  ad- 
vertised as  sunny,  and  many  are  so  described 
which  are  sunny  only  a  small  part  of  the  day. 
But  whether  the  sun  shines  or  not,  it  is  never 
safe  to  sit  by  open  windows  or  on  door-steps 
without  shawls,  hats,  or  overcoats.  Strangers  do 
it  sometimes,  but  never  do  it  very  long.  San 
Francisco  is  not  the  place  for  out-door  pleasur- 
ing. Bright  and  sunshiny  and  beautiful  as  it 
often  is  without  doors,  one  prefers  to  look  upon 
it  from  within,  and  if  deciding  to  go  out  must 
wrap  up  almost  as  for  a  winter  ride  or  walk  in 
the  older  States. 

San  Francisco  has  few  pleasure  resorts.  Seal 
Rocks,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Golden  Gate,  attract 
many  to  ride  to  the  Cliff  House,  and  gaze  at  sea- 
lions  gamboling  and  snorting  and  basking  on  its 
sides.  It  is  a  beautiful  ride  thence  south  on  the 
beach  a  couple  of  miles  to  the  Ocean  House,  and 
thence  back  to  the  city  by  Lake  Merced. 


Golden  Gate  Park  is,  however,  the  chief  resort 
for  pleasure.  It  is  new,  and  its  charms  and 
beauty  cannot  be  expected  to  equal  those  of 
Central  Park,  in  New  York  City,  but  much  has 
been  done  already,  and  the  promise  for  time  to 
come  is  ample.  The  reclamation  of  sand  wastes 
and  dunes  by  planting  yellow  lupin  and  their 
conversion  into  beautiful  grass-plots  is  a  notable 
feature  of  the  success  already  attained,  which 
elicits  the  admiration  of  all  who  contrast  what 
they  see  in  the  park  with  the  proof  of  what  it 
was  once,  shown  in  the  still  shifting  sands 
around  it.  The  park  embraces  about  1,100  acres, 
and  when  the  thousands  and  ten  thousands  of 
trees  planted  in  it  have  gained  their  growth, 
which  they  are  doing  almost  too  fast  for  belief, 
and  other  improvements  in  progress  are  carried 
out,  it  will  rank  among  the  most  attractive  and 
admired  city  parks  on  the  Continent.  It  is 
reached  by  several  streets  leading  west  from  Mar- 
ket, but  rzost  of  the  many  drivers  and  riders 
who  resort  there  find  their  way  either  by  Turk, 
Golden  Gate  Avenue  (formerly  Tyler  Street) — 
Golden  Gate  Avenue  is  the  great  thoroughfare 
— or  McAllister  Street. 

A  favorite  resort  is  also  Woodward's  Gardens. 
They  are  private  property,  and  a  quarter  of  a  dollar 
is  charged  for  entrance.  It  is  a  pleasant  place 
to  pass  a  half  day  visiting  the  collection  of 
various  living  animals  and  birds,  among  which 
are  camels  born  in  the  garden,  and  sea-lions 
caught  in  the  Pacific,  and  paid  for  at  the  rate 
of  seventy-five  cents  a  pound.  One  big  fellow,  a 
captive  for  seven  years,  has  grown  to  weigh  over 
a  ton.  Sea-lions  can  be  better  studied  at  Wood- 
ward's than  at  Seal  Rock,  especially  at  the  hour 
they  are  fed,  when  they  do  some  fearful  leaping 
and  splashing.  There  are  fine  collection?  also  of 
stuffed  birds,  and  other  curiosities,  hot-houses 
with  tropical  plants,  aquaria  not  surpassed  on 
this  Continent,  a  skating  rink,  and  many  other 
attractive  features.  The  grounds  are  spacious 
and  well  sheltered,  and  a  pleasanter  spot  cannot 
be  found  within  the  city  limits  for  whiling  away 
a  few  houv«=  The  city  line  of  horse-cars  leads 
to  the  gardens  £rom  Market  Street  Ferry  to 
Mission  Street,  oil  which  the  gardens  front. 
They  cover  .over  six  acres,  and  almost  eveiy 
taste  can  be  suited  somewhere  in  them.  The 
active  and  jolly  can  resort  to  the  play-ground 
and  gymnasium,  and  those  who  like  quiet,  will 
find  shady  nooks  and  walks ;  those  fond  of  sights 
and  curiosities  can  spend  hours  in  the  various 
cabinets,  and  those  who  like  to  study  mankind, 
can  gaze  on  the  groups  standing  around,  and 
streaming  passers-by.  Through  the  whole  sea- 
son, from  April  to  November,  it  is  always  genial 
and  sunny,  and  enjoyable  there. 


279 


THE 


These  queer  looking  people,  with  loose  gar- 
ments, umbrella  hats,  or  skull-caps,  rags  for 
hose,  pantaloons  made  ankle  tight  by  tapes ; 
wooden  shoes,  coppery  skin,  high  cheek-bones, 
almond  eyes,  half-shaved  heads,  jet  black  hair, 
and  dangling  pig-tails,  are  the  hated  of  the 
Paddy,  the  target  of  hoodlums ;  the  field  of  the 
missionary,  the  bomb  for  the  politician  to  ex- 
plode, and  the  sinew  for  capital.  They  are 
called  the  essence  of  all  that  is  vicious,  villain- 
ous, and  certainly  are  opinionated.  They  are 
everywhere ;  even  the  boys  say  they  cannot  throw 
stones  without  hitting  them,  but  they  are  to  be 
best  seen  in  the  Chinese  quarters  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, from  Pacific  Street,  the  "  Barbary  Coast," 
to  Sacramento  Street,  and  from  Kearney  to 
Stockton,  five  squares  by  two,  in  the  heart  of 
the  oldest  part  of  the  city. 

Although  in  every  block,  and  near  every  door, 
their  special  quarter  is  almost  like  a  city  of  the 
"Middle  Flowery  Kingdom"  set  right  down  in 
our  midst.  Streets  and  alleys,  and  labyrinthian 
windings,  not  only  such  as  we  tread,  are  theirs ; 
but,they  live  and  travel  under  ground  and  over 
roofs,  up  and  down,  until  the  cunning  policeman 
is  outwitted  in  following  them;  and  all  their 
streets  and  by-ways  are  swarming  with  human 
or  inhuman  inhabitants,  but  little  less  numerous 
than  the  rats  and  the  vermin.  Cellars  and  lofts 
seem  equally  good  for  either  lodgings,  factories, 
shops,  or  laundries,  and  apartments  of  ordinary 
height  are  cut  in  two  with  a  ladder  to  ascend  to 
the  loft,  reminding  us  of  the  log-cabin  days  in 
the  back-woods,  or  the  wild  frontier. 

Buildings  are  made  more  capacious  by  rude 
balconies  from  the  second  stories,  that  almost 
touch  over  the  narrow  passages  beneath.  The 
Globe  Hotel,  corner  of  Jackson  and  Dupont 
Streets,  three  stories  high,  with  about  60  rooms, 
is  inhabited  by  about  1,500  Celestials,  and  the 
heads  of  the  Chinamen  in  their  bunks,  must 


look  like  the  cells  of  a  honey-comb.  Steamship 
hold,  cemetery  vault,  Roman  catacomb,  or 
Egyptian  pyramid  could  hardly  be  better 
packed. 

Health. — The  narrow  streets  are  wide  enough 
for  hucksters,  wood-piles,  chicken-coops,  tempo- 
rary pig-pens,  baskets  and  poles,  and  all  sorts  of 
foul  rubbish,  and  just  wide  enough  for  our 
noses.  These  streets  may  center  in  open  courts 
that  reek  in  filth,  or  lead  one  from  treading 
where  death-dealing  vapors  ooze  through  the 
loose  boards  on  which  he  walks,  to  dwellings, 
where  the  floors  are  easily  lifted  to  secure  sewer 
accommodations  in  pools  or  vats  beneath ;  but 
with  all  this,  the  Chinamen  seem  to  thrive  best, 
and  huddle  closest  where  it  is  darkest  and  most 
dismal,  and  where  sunlight  never  enters. 
Leprosy  is  said  to  exist,  but  if  competent  medi- 
cal authorities  have  so  pronounced  any  of  their 
loathsome  diseases,  it  is  not  generally  known, 
or  else  the  leprosy  is  not  of  a  contagious 
character. 

There  are  loathsome  diseases  among  them,  and 
especially  among  the  prostitutes,  by  which  even 
small  boys  are  infected,  but  no  wide-spread 
pestilence  has  ever  been  known  among  them, 
and  the  death-rate  is  not  excessive. 

Their  funeral  customs  and  places  of  burial 
make*he  concealment  of  the  dead  far  more  un- 
likely than  when  some  victim  is  chopped  to  pieces 
and  stowed  away  a  la  practices  not  unknown  to 
American  criminals. 

Inoculation  in  chUJren  is  almost  tmiversa., 
and  small-pox  has  j.oo  prevailed  alarmingly  in 
the  Chinese  quarter  of  the  city. 

Personal  Habits. — Notwithstanding  their 
foul  habitations,  they  seem  to  come  out  of 
their  filth  as  the  eel  from  his  skin,  with  a  per- 
sonal cleanliness  that  is  marvelous,  and  to  most 
incredible.  So  far  as  the  secret  of  their  anoma- 
lous health  and  personal  cleanliness  can  be  de- 


280 


tected,  it  is  in  their  practice  of  daily  ablution. 
They  bathe  as  if  it  were  a  sacred  duty,  and  in 
Washington  Territory  will  cut  through  the 
winter  ice  to  find  the  necessary  water,  and  the 
tooth-brush  is  a  daily  companion. 

The  cue  is  regarded  with  patriotic  pride.  It 
and  the  tonsure  were  introduced  into  China  in 
1644,  as  a  mark  of  acceptance  of,  and  subjection 
to  the  Tartar 
rule,  and  en- 
forced by  the 
favor  of  the 
courts,  to  all 
litigants  who 
wore  the  cue, 
and  by  reject- 
ing in  the  lit- 
erary examina- 
tions all  candi- 
dates who  ap- 
peared without 
it,  and  even  by 
death  in  some 
cases,  until  at 
length  the 
mark  of  deris- 
ion became 
the  badge  of 
honor,  and  now 
every  Celestial 
carries  this  flag 
of  his  country, 
no  less  dear 
than  his  own 
head. 

It  is  formed 
by  separating 
the  unshaven 
hair  on  the 
crown  of  the 
head,  three  or 
four  inches  in 
diameter,  into 
three  strands 
and  braiding 
with  it  coarse 
silk  or  false 
hair,  until  in 
cases  of  the  am- 
bitious  it 
reaches  to  with- 
in three  inches 
of  the  ground.  Sometimes  it  is  worn  for  conven- 
ience in  a  coil  around  the  head  or  the  neck,  but 
it  is  a  mark  of  disrespect  to  have  it  coiled  thus 
in  the  presence  of  superiors — more  insulting  than 
to  enter  a  Fifth  Avenue  cathedral  or  orthodox 
church  and  sit  with  the  hat  on  the  head. 

The  head  of  those  who  can  afford  it,  is  shaved 
once  in  ten  or  fifteen  days.  The  razor  is  triangu- 
lar in  shape,  about  two  inches  long,  and  an  inch 
wide  at  one  end,  hollow  ground  and  weighing 


sides. 


SCEXE  IX  ALLEY,  CHINESE  QUARTERS,  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


about  two  ounces.  The  metal  is  of  such  excellent 
quality  that  the  razors  are  often  bought  by 
Americans  for  the  steel  only. 

Tonsorial  operations  are  performed  with  great 
skill,  and  there  are  delicate  instruments  for  swab- 
bing the  ears,  pulling  hairs  out  of  the  nostrils, 
and  cleaning  the  eyelids  on  both  under  and  upper 
~:J~~  The  sign  of  the  barber-shop,  is  a  tour- 
legged  frame — 
the  legs  painted 

freen,  and  the 
nobs    on    top 
painted  red. 

As  the  cue  is 
the  badge  of 
servitude  to  the 
present  dynasty 
of  China,  no 
one  can  become 
an  American 
citizen,  or  "de- 
clare his  inten- 
tions" and  re- 
tain this,  for  it 
proclaims  that 
in  political  mat- 
ters, he  is  not 
his  own  master, 
but  the  slave  of 
the  Emperor, 
and  hence  ap- 
pears the  ab- 
surdity of  those 
who  deny  the 
sincerity  of 
the  profession 
of  the  Chris- 
tian religion, 
made  by  some 
Chinamen  who 
retain  their 
cue.  An  En- 
glish subject 
who  unites  with 
an  American 
church,  is  not 
required  or  ex- 
pected for  this 
reason,  to  re- 
nounce his  al- 
legiance to  the 
Queen. 

Chinese  Quarters. — The  most  interesting 
objects  to  be  seen  in  the  Chinese  quarters  are 
stores,  shops,  restaurants  and  temples,  or  Joss 
houses,  and  opium  smoking  places,  although 
some  of  the  tourists  visit  viler  abodes,  out  of 
curiosity. 

A  visit  to  the  Chinese  quarters  may  be  made 
in  daylight  or  by  night,  and  with  or  without  a 
policeman.  The  writer  has  frequently  passed 
through  the  alleys  and  streets  of  Chinatown  with- 


281 


out  the  protection  of  policemen,  and  never  ex- 
perienced the  least  indignity.  The  only  occasion 
when  he  failed  to  receive  the  strictest  couitesy 
and  deference  was  when  intruding  upon  a 
family  "  at  rice" — for  white  visitors  are  never 
welcomed  then — and  introducing  a  large  com- 
pany of  friends,  one  of  whom  said  he  came 
from  New  York,  when  one  of  the  Chinamen 
grinned  from  ear  to  ear,  exclaiming,  "You 
foole  me — he  Irishman,  he  Irishman" 

Those  desiring  the  protection  of  a  policeman 
can  secure  the  services  of  one  by  applying  to 
the  Chief  of  Police  in  the  City  Hall.  Compen- 
sation should  be  made  privately.  Two  dollars 
and  a  half  is  a  sufficient  fee,  but  visitors  should 
pay  their  own  admittance  to  the  Chinese  theater. 

The  Number. — It  is  hard  to  estimate  the 
birds  of  a  large  flock  that  come  and  go  with 
spring  and  fall,  and  the  Chinese  are  always 
traveling  to  and  from  the  Celestial  Empire,  and 
no  census-taker  or  poll-tax-gatherer  has  ever 
been  guilty  of  the  sin  of  numbering  them. 
"Whoever  can  be  caught  is  squeezed  for  taxes, 
and  no  matter  whether  he  has  paid  or  not,  he 
can  pay  for  some  one  that  can  not  be  caught. 
The  number  of  the  people,  as  reported  by  the 
census  of  1881,  is  about  97,000.  These,  with 
Japanese,  East  Indians  and  others,  classed  as 
"Asiatics,"  make  a  total  of  105,678  as  given  in 
the  census.  Of  the  Chinese  in  America,  about 
75,000  are  in  California,  and  of  these,  about 
20,000  in  the  City  of  San  Francisco.  Of  the 
whole  number  in  America,  about  10,000  are 
women,  children  and  merchants. 

Emigration  is  carried  on  through  Hong  Kong, 
a  British  port,  the  Chinese  from  the  province  of 
Kwantung  going  via  this  port. 

At  the  end  of  the  year  1851,  not  4,000  had 
come  to  America.  But  the  reports  of  the  open 
country,  and  plenty  of  gold,  brought  18,000  in 
1852,  and  alarmed  the  Californians,  so  that  the 
next  year  only  4,000  came,  and  the  average  of 
arrivals  since,  has  not  been  5,000  a  year.  We 
have  often  been  told  of  "passage  engaged 
ahead  for  thousands,"  that  "  enough  are  coming 
the  present  year  to  overrun  us,"  but  the  prophe- 
cies are  somewhat  akin  to  those  of  the  world's 
destruction. 

The  books  of  the  Custom  House,  show  the  ar- 
rivals since  1868  to  have  been  as  follows,  but  of 
departures  and  deaths,  there  is  no  reliable  record. 


YEAR. 

1868, 
1869, 
1870, 
1871, 
1872, 
1873, 
YEAR. 
1874, 
1875, 

January,  1876, 
February,  1876, 
March,  1876, 


MALE. 

10,024 

11,710 

9,666 

4,864 

8,812 

16,605 

MALE. 

11,743 

18,090 

1.170 

1,197 

1.872 

95,753 


FEMALE. 

256 
1,540 
645 
100 
665 
516 

FEMALE. 

307 

858 

7 

0 

0 

4.296 


TOTAL. 
10,280 
13,252 
10,318 
4.964 
9,377 
17,121 
TOTAL. 
12.960 
18,448 
1,177 
1,197 
1,872 


103,049 


The  Six  Companies. — These  are  the  "Ming 
Yung,"  "Hop  Wo,"  "Kong  Chow,"  "Yung 
Wo,"  "Sam  Yak,"  and  Yen  Wo."  The  largest 
of  these  is  the  "Ming  Yung."  Perhaps  all 
but  about  1,000  belong  to  one  or  the  other  of 
these  companies. 

As  to  the  object  and  power  of  these  companies 
there  is  a  difference  of  opinion.  Some  assert 
they  are  about  absolute  for  all  purposes  of 
government,  importing  men  and  women,  making 
and  enforcing  contracts  for  labor  and  passage, 
settling  disputes,  and  by  means  of  hired  assas- 
sins killing  at  their  pleasure,  any  one  for  whom 
they  choose  to  offer  a  reward. 

This  and  more — everything  that  can  be  said 
against  them  is  believed  by  more  than  every 
Irishman,  and  on  the  other  hand,  those  who  have 
lived  in  China,  in  the  service  of  the  American  or 
English  government,  and  missionaries  who  speak 
and  read  the  Chinese  language,  deny  to  the  com- 
panies any  such  extent  of  power  or  purpose,  and 
the  Chinamen  universally  deny  it. 

It  is  certain  that  these  organizations  are  pro- 
tective, that  they  are  practically  emigration  and 
aid  societies,  that  they  care  for  the  sick,  send 
some  of  the  destitute  back  to  China,  settle  dis- 
putes by  arbitration,  and  possess  such  power  that 
the  officials  of  the  companies  are  sometimes 
"  bound  over  "  for  the  members  to  keep  the  peace, 
and  by  an  arrangement  with  the  Pacific  Mail 
Steamship  Company,  prevent  the  return  of 
any  one  to  China  who  has  not  paid  his  debts,  and 
gather  up  and  return  to  China  the  bones  of  all 
the  dead  belonging  to  the  respective  companies. 
They  have  no  criminal  power,  and  if  American 
officials  did  not  co-operate  with  and  encourage 
the  companies  they  would  have  much  less  in- 
fluence and  importance.  Previous  to  coming, 
Chinamen  have  often  no  knowledge  of  the  exist 
ence  of  the  companies.  A  family  may  accumu- 
late means  to  send  one  of  their  number,  not  from 
Cork,  but  Hong  Kong,  and  on  his  arrival  he  usu- 
ally allies  himself  to  one  of  the  companies  for 
mutual  assistance  and  protection,  and  the  six 
companies  may  also  advertise  in  China  to  induce 
some  to  emigrate. 

Nearly  all  Chinamen  in  America  are  from  the 
province  of  Kwantung,  of  which  Canton  is  the 
principal  city,  and  hence  only  the  Cantonese 
dialect  is  spoken  here. 

The  part  of  the  province  from  which  they  come 
usually  determines  what  company  each  will  join. 
No  fee  is  exacted  for  membership  or  initiation. 

A  washing  guild,  or  organization  that  fixes 
rates  for  washing,  etc.,  has  often  been  confound- 
ed with  the  Six  Companies.  It  is  a  trades- 
union,  independent  of  the  companies.  Trades- 
unions  are  as  common  in  China  as  in  America, 
and  it  is  not  surprising  therefore  that  they  fix 
here  the  prices  of  washing,  and  allow  no  new 
wash-house  within  certain  limits  of  another,  and 
Jceep  wages  high  enough  to  secure  the  most 


money,  and  low  enough  to  sicken  the  Irishman 
that  competes  with  them. 

Tlie  Women. — These  are  all  of  the  lowest 
order,  excepting  perhaps  150  out  of  the  thou- 
sands here.  The  manner  of  dealing  with  them 
is  like  that  with  Ah  Hoe,  as  follows : 

"  An  agreement  to  assist  the  woman  Ah  Hoe, 
because  coming  from  China  to  San  Francisco 
she  became  indebted  to  her  mistress  for  passage. 
Ah  Hoe  herself  asks  Mr.  Yee  Kwan  to  advance 
for  her  $ 630,  for  which  Ah  Hoe  distinctly  agrees 
to  give  her  body  to  Mr.  Yee  for  service  as  a  pros- 
titute for  a  term  of  four  years.  There  shall  be 
no  interest  on  the  money.  Ah  Hoe  shall  receive 
no  wages.  At  the  expiration  of  four  years  Ah 
Hoe  shall  be  her  own  master.  Mr.  Yee  Kwan 
shall  not  hinder  or  trouble  her.  If  Ah  Hoe  runs 
away  before  her  time  is  out,  her  mistress  shall 
find  her  and  return  her,  and  whatever  expense  is 
incurred  in  finding  her  Ah  Hoe  shall  pay.  On 
this  day  of  the  agreement  Ah  Hoe  has  received 
with  her  own  hands  $630.  If  Ah  Hoe  shall  be 
sick  at  any  time  for  more  than  ten  days  she 
shall  make  up  by  an  extra  month  of  service  for 
every  ten  days  of  sickness.  Now  this  agreement 
has  proof.  This  paper  received  by  Ah  Hoe  is 
witness. 

YUNG  CHKE,  12th  year,  9th  month,  14th  day. 

In  October,  1873,  Ah  Hoe  came  to  Mr. 
Gibson's  school  for  protection,  saying  she  had 
been  beaten  and  ill-treated  and  gave  this  con- 
tract as  an  evidence  that  she  had  been  held  in 
slavery.  The  money  she  had  held  in  her  hands  a 
few  seconds,  being  compelled  to  pass  it  immedi- 
ately over  to  her  employer.  She  was  taken  to 
Hong  Kong  by  her  mistress  and  shipped  to  this 
country. 

Tax  Paying — In  San  Francisco,  in  1876, 
324  persons  or  firms  were  assessed  for  personal 
property,  $531,300.  Of  city  tax  .943,  and  of 
State  tax  .90  of  the  whole  was  collected:  a 
much  larger  proportion  than  the  roll  will  show 
for  other  taxpayers.  One  of  the  tea-importing 
firms  was  assessed  for  personal  property  at 
$23,000,  and  another  at  $22,500,  and  six  firms 
each  at  $10,000,  or  upwards.  In  1880  they 
paid  $200,000  for  poll-tax,  paying  from  $2  to 
$4  each. 

"On  real  estate  it  is  impossible  to  ascertain  the 
amount  of  assessment,  but  it  is  certain  that  some 
of  the  people  are  so  well  pleased  with  the  country  as 
to  consider  it  a  desirable  home,  or  else  so  shrewd 
In  business  as  not  to  fear  speculations  in  real 
estate,  in  which  they  often  make  fortunate  turns. 

They  never  trouble  any  board  of  equalization 
for  a  reduction  of  their  assessment,  and  if  their 
assessments  are  made  surprisingly  low,  may 
Allah  forgive  the  error  for  such  is  not  the  inten- 
tion, and  etrange  as  it  may  seem  the  names  of 
Chinese  real  estate  owners  are  never  found  on  the 
delinquent  tax-list.  Some  of  the  Chinamen  are 
reputed  lo  be  worth  from  $100,000  to  $200,000. 


Striking  Characteristics. — They  are  in- 
dustrious, working  early  and  late,  are  peaceable, 
never  giving  offense  in  the  street. 

They  ai-e  thievish,  and  clannish,  and  have  many 
vices,  but  they  never  garrote  the  belated  club- 
man ;  they  will  lie,  but  their  honesty  in  deed  and 
word  is  not  a  whit  below  any  mercantile  class, 
and  their  veracity  is  as  good  as  the  average  in 
the  same  sphere  of  labor. 

Economy — is  seen  in  shrewd  bargains,  in 
cheap  living,  in  picking  up  the  gold  in  the  tail- 
ings that  slips  through  the  fingers  of  the  Ameri- 
can miner,  in  roasting  his  pork  by  the  carcass  and 
selling  it  to  save  the  services  of  many  cooks  and 
the  cost  of  many  fires. 

The  cobbler  pursues  his  avocation  on  the  street, 
reminding  one  of  the  horseback  rider  during  the 
war,  who  was  shaken  heartily  and  awakened  by 
a  stranger  who  desired  to  know  what  he  paid  for 
lodgings.  For  the  cobbler  a  candle-box  will  fur- 
nish a  seat,  and  all  his  tools  and  stock  in  trade 
be  carried  about  in  another  small  box  or  basket. 

They  can  live  for  about  eight  or  ten  cents  a 
day,  but  the  average  cost  of  the  working  class  is 
about  thirty  cents. 

Skill  in  Imitating. --They  are  great  imi- 
tators, and  so  far  as  known,  do  they  not 
furnish  a  striking  illustration  of  the  truth  of 
the  theory  of  natural  selection?  Do  not  their 
caudal  appendages  and  power  of  imitation  show 
their  relation  to  the  monkey,  and  the  link  they 
form  in  the  development  of  the  race  ? 

They  are  servile  imitators.  The  sea  captain 
who  had  an  oil  painting  injured,  and  gave  it  to 
a  Chinese  artist  to  reproduce,  was  amazed  to  see 
the  reproduction  of  the  gash,  and  the  Chinese 
tailor  who  "  followed  copy  "  in  making  the  new 
coat  with  a  patch  on  the  elbow,  needed  his 
ideas  enforced  with  blows,  yet  they  never  ex- 
hibit the  stupidity  of  the  new  coachman,  who 
was  sent  to  grease  the  carriage,  and  returned  in 
half  an  hour,  saying  he  had  "  greased  it  all  ex- 
cept the  sticks  the  wheels  hang  on."  They  are 
more  than  imitators,  for  the  ingenious  heathen 
Chinee  can  produce  more  expedients  from  his 
fertile  brain  than  Ah  Sin  aces  from  his  flowing 
sleeves.  In  the  mountains  John  will  own, 
drive,  and  care  for  his  own  team  °f  horses;  or 
mules. 

Their  value  as  servants  or  laborers  is  largely 
in  this,  that  they  do  as  they  are  shown,  and 
have  no  more  opinion  of  their  own,  than  the 
miner  who  replied  to  his  superintendent,  when 
asked  "  what  is  this  ore  worth  a  ton  ?  "  "I  don't 
know,  to  me  it's  worth  four  dollars  a  day." 

Power  of  Control  over  Their  Feelings. 
— makes  their  faces  as  unreadable  as  marble. 
They  are  the  least  demonstrative  of  all  the  na- 
tionalities represented — the  very  opposite  of  the 
Frenchman.  They  rarely  laugh  or  cry,  yet  they 
become  excited,  have  no  fear  of  death,  and  their 
Chinese  oafV\s  roll  from  them  at  a  rapid  rate. 


283 


They  often  express  their  feeling  by  oaths  and 
curses,  to  which  American  profanity,  it  is  to  be 
hoped,  will  not  attain  by  the  next  Centennial. 
They  wish  their  enemies  to  be  chopped  into  a 
thousand  pieces, — that  his  bowels  may  rot  inch 
by  inch,  and  in  geneal,  their  frequent  oaths  are 
vile,  low,  and  most  vulgar,  and  they  use  them  in 
the  consciousness  that  the  mistress  "  can't  sabee." 

As  servants  many  regard  them  as  a  great  re- 
lief to  the  insolence  and  visiting  so  common  to 
the  class,  and  find  them  as  reliable  as  any  others. 
They  are  liked  and  hated  in  proportion  as  they 
are  faithful  and  find  kind  mistresses.  Many 
have  tried  them  to  their  disgust,  and  others 
would  have  none  but  Chinamen. 

Their  language  gives  them  no  little  advantage 
in  publishing  their  grievances.  A  kind  and  cul- 
tured lady  was  greatly  attached  to  her  China- 
man, who  remained  in  her  kitchen  about  two 
years,  and  then  returned  to  China  to  visit  his 
relations. 

His  successor  proved  to  be  a  surly  and  care- 
less fellow,  and  was  soon  discharged.  No  China- 
man would  then  stay  for  more  than  a  few  days 
or  a  week,  and  a  "  Jap  "  was  engaged  but  with 
the  same  mysterious  result.  At  length  some 
characters  in  the  written  language  were  discover- 
ed in  the  dust  on  the  back  of  the  mirror  in  the 
dressing  bureau,  and  after  they  were  effaced  the 
trouble  ceased ! 

Chinese  Business. — Among  the  Chinese  are 
pawnbrokers,  money-changers  and  bankers, 
watch-makers  and  jewelers. 

The  laundries  are  on  every  block,  in  some  of 
which  the  work  is  excellent,  and  in  others  miser- 
able and  destructive. 

Their  process  of  sprinkling  the  clothes  by  tak- 
ing a  mouthful  of  water  and  ejecting  it  in  the 
form  of  spray  is  curious,  but  a  method  of  sprink- 
ling that  is  not  surpassed  for  evenness. 

Rag-pickers,  and  itinerant  peddlers  go  about 
with  two  large  baskets  on  the  ends  of  a  bamboo 
pole,  and  in  this  way  burdens  are  usually  carried 
and  often  300  pounds  are  carried  on  a  •'  dog-trot  " 
from  ten  to  twenty  miles  a  day. 

These  baskets,  loaded  with  fish,  carefully 
picked  in  the  markets,  and  vegetables  selected 
with  like  care,  or  raised  in  little  suburban  gar- 
dens of  their  own,  or  fish  and  vegetables  of  the 
worst,  are  carried  if  they  suit  the  customers. 
Their  baskets  are  at  the  doors  of  all  the  side- 
streets,  and  supply  provender  to  those  who  cry 
most  against  cheap  labor. 

Chinese  Jewelry  may  be  purchased  for  curi- 
osity only,  but  the  purchaser  may  feel  easier  than 
in  buying  a  Connecticut  clock,  for  the  articles 
carved  in  gold  and  silver  are  of  pure  metal — 
the  Chinese  having  not  yet  learned  the  intricacies 
of  cheap  jewelry. 

Firm  names  are  not  subject  to  change  with 
death  or  change  of  partners,  but  are  often  per- 
petuated for  centuries. 


Chinese  Workmen. — Their  employments 
and  occupations  are,  in  short,  legion.  They  are 
adapted  best  to  light,  quick  work,  and  engaged 
much  in  cigar  making,  the  use  of  the  sewing 
machine,  gardening,  mining,  picking  fruit,  etc., 
but  have  also  proved  the  most  efficient  class  for 
building  railroads  and  levees, 

They  are  used  almost  exclusively  for  gathering 
castor-beans,  strawberries  and  other  fruits.  As 
merchants,  they  prove  successful,  "  cornering  " 
the  pea-crop  and  other  markets,  and  they  even 
charter  vessels  for  the  flour,  tea  and  rice  trade 
with  China.  Thus  it  is  evident  that  the  labor 
question  wears  a  serious  aspect  on  its  face,  but 
it  is  like  the  ocean  disturbed  most  on  the  surface, 
and  will  be  settled  with  some  respect  to  the  de- 
mands of  capital,  as  such  questions  have  always 
been  settled. 

One  of  the  manufacturers  engaged  in  the  Mis- 
sion Woolen  Mills,  and  two  other  factories  says  : 
"  We  employ  about  one  thousand  Chinese.  We 
pay  white  men  wages  200  per  cent,  higher  than 
that  paid  to  the  Chinese.  Some  of  the  Chinamen 
are  equal  to  white  men,  but  most  of  them 
earn  from  90  cents  to  $1.20  a  day.  All  the 
money  for  Chinese  laborers  is  paid  to  one  man. 
We  started  manufacturing  with  white  labor, 
and  three  or  four  years  ago  came  to  the  con- 
clusion that  we  wanted  to  hire  seventy-five 
white  boys,  and  bought  that  many  machines. 
The  second  day  the  boys  went  out  on  an  excur- 
sion in  the  bay,  and  did  not  come  back  to  work 
until  the  day  after.  We  spoke  to  them  about 
it,  and  said  it  must  not  happen  again.  There- 
upon one  of  the  boys  put  on  his  jacket  and  said 
to  the  others,  '  Let  him  go  to  h — 1,'  and  most  of 
them  left  the  factory.  We  could  not  rely  on 
white  boys.  Afterward  I  engaged  nine  girls. 
One  day  I  went  to  the  factory  and  found  no 
steam  up.  I  asked  '  What's  the  matter  V '  The 
foreman  said  the  girls  did  not  come,  they  are  off 
on  a  holiday.  They  had  too  many  holidays — 
Christmas,  New  Year's,  Fourth  of  July,  St. 
Patrick's  Day,  and  many  other  holidays  I  never 
heard  of.  It  went  on  from  bad  to  worse,  and 
when  I  found  that  the  girls  would  rather  loaf  on 
the  streets  than  work,  I  discharged  them.  I  am 
not  in  favor  of  Chinese  labor,  mind  you,  but  I 
have  found  out  that  white  boys  and  girls  of  San 
Francisco  cannot  be  depended  upon.  If  we  had 
no  Chinamen,  our  factories  would,  in  a  measure, 
be  hindered  in  their  progress.  If  we  had  no 
manufactories  of  blankets  here  articles  of  that 
description  would  be  bought  in  England.  Shoes 
would  be  bought  in  Boston,  if  they  were  not 
manufactured  here.  Our  foreman  has  instruc- 
tions to  give  white  labor  the  preference.  We 
have  offered  inducements  to  obtain  Chinese 
labor. 

Would  it  be  a  good  thing  to  send  our  raw 
material  East,  and  have  the  articles  manufac- 
tured there  and  sent  back  to  us?  We  sell  goods 


284 


here  as  cheap  as  they  are  sold  in  the  East,  and 
better  goods,  although  white  labor  in  New  Eng- 
land is  cheaper  than  Chinese  labor  on  this  coast. 
The  houses  that  export  and  sell  eastern  manu- 
factured goods  would  put  up  the  prices  of  shoes, 
blankets,  etc.,  if  our  factories  did  riot  keep  them 
down  by  competition.  If  our  factories  were 
closed,  prices  would  go  up  at  once." 

And  a  private  individual,  "  Chang  Wo,"  makes 
a  good  point  in  public  discussion,  when  he  says, 
"  What  for  the  Americans  have  us  in  their 
houses  if  we  are  not  clean  and  steal  ?  You  can 
see." 

Among  them  are  some  hardened  criminal.,  as 
their  implements  of  murder  to  be  seen  in  the 
office  of  the  Chief  of  Police,  or  their  pawn- 
broker's shops,  will  testify,  and  seventeen  per 
cent,  of  the  convicts  at  San  Quentin  are  Chinese. 
On  the  one  hand,  it  is  difficult  to  convict  them, 
because  false  witnesses  are  idle  in  the  market 
places,  but  on  the  other  hand,  -they  need  no  con- 
viction in  the  judgment  of  many,  and  only  a  pre- 
text is  sufficient  to  get  them  into  prison.  Guilty 
American  criminals  enjoy  no  fewer  chances  of 
escaping  justice,  but  many  more. 

Chinese  Restaurants  and  Food. — The 
restaurants  are  easily  distinguished  by  their 
gaudy  signs  of  red  and  gilt,  covering  the  whole 
front  of  the  building,  and  the  immense  round 
Chinese  lanterns  suspended  from  the  upper 
.stories.  The  higher  the  story,  the  more  elaborate 
and  costly  is  the  rude  furniture  and  the  more 
aristocratic  the  entertainment ;  or  like  the  Palace 
Hotel,  "  the  high  floors  are  the  high-toned."  In 
these  high  places  the  merchants  dine  their  friends 
on  a  dozen  different  courses.  They  have  a 
greater  variety  of  food  than  the  French  or  any 
other  nation.  Some  of  this  is  best  seen  in  the 
provision  stores,  and  some  in  the  restaurants. 
On  Jackson  Street,  above  Dupont,  is  one  of  the 
oldest  and  best  restaurants ;  others  are  on  oppo- 
site sides  of  Dupont,  near  Clay.  In  meats,  the 
Chinese  use  pork,  kid,  chickens,  and  the  greatest 
variety  of  dried  fish,  dried  oysters,  gizzards, 
shrimps,  and  ducks.  Beef  is  not  a  favorite 
meat,  especially  in  the  southern  part  of  China. 
The  legends  concerning  calamity  upon  those  who 
eat  so  serviceable  an  animal  are  numerous. 

Ducks  are  hatched  and  reared  by  artificial  proc- 
ess in  China,  and  when  dried  in  the  sun  and 
pressed  in  oil,  are  an  important  article  of  com- 
merce. Dried  duck  eggs,  sometimes  called  "  salt 
eggs,"  being  first  salted  for  three  days,  and  then 
covered  or  coated  with  mud  and  salt,  look  as  if 
they  were  coated  with  glue,  and  covered  with 
black  sand  in  stucco  fashion.  The  Chinese  call 
them  Ham  Tan,  and  sell  them  at  35  cents  a 
dozen. 

Shrimps  are  not  only  dried,  but  are  made  into 
a  sauce  that  looks  like  an  apothecary's  ointment. 
Many  Chinamen  in  Mexico  are  engaged  in  catch- 
ing and  salting  shrimps.  The  variety  of  dried 


and  salted  fish  is  almost  endless.  Meat,  fish  aud 
vegetables  are  cut  up  fine  and  cooked  with 
rice  flour  and  nut-oil  in  a  variety  of  cakes,  orna- 
mented in  various  styles  and  colors,  then  sold  at 
street  stands  and  eaten  in  restaurants.  Rice 
flour  and  nut-oil  are  used  in  almost  all  the 
articles  of  pastry.  Rice  is,  of  course,  the  staple 
article  of  food,  and  the  taking  of  a  meal  is  "  eat- 
,  ing  rice."  The  Chinaman's  receptivity  for  this, 
like  that  of  the  ocean,  is  never  satisfied.  He 
will  take  a  bowl  containing  it,  in  the  left  hand, 
and  by  a  dexterous  use  of  the  chop-sticks  will 
shovel  it  into  his  mouth,  and  swallow  it  as  one 
fish  swallows  another,  and  he  seldom  fails  to  re- 
peat the  process  less  than  five  or  six  times.  Of 
teas,  only  the  black  is  used  in  the  best  restau- 
rants, and  this  of  a  superior  quality,  costing 
often  several  dollars  a  pound.  It  is  never  boiled 
but  placed  in  a  small  cup  with  a  cover  to  fit,  and 
boiling  water  poured  in,  and  then  is  left  to  steep 
in  the  presence  of  the  guest.  Tea  is  the  com- 
mon beverage,  and  offered  on  all  occasions.  On 
receiving  a  call  from  a  stranger,  it  would  be  ex- 
ceedingly ill-mannered  not  to  offer  some  hot  tea 
the  moment  after  he  enters.  It  is  always  taken 
as  hot  as  it  can  be  procured,  and  without  sugar 
or  milk.  For  keeping  it  hot  they  sometimes 
have  a  covered  basket  well-lined  with  some  non- 
conductor of  heat,  into  which  the  tea-pot  fits, 
and  which  will  retain  the  heat  for  several  hours. 

They  seldom  drink  water,  and  wine  is  spar- 
ingly used.  At  their  feasts  and  on  social  occa- 
sions, they  are  obliged  to  go  through  the  whole 
bill  of  fare,  taking  a  little  of  whatever  is  offered. 

The  long,  white,  tapering  Chinese  radish,  like 
our  own  winter  radish,  few  will  mistake,  unless 
they  are  first  cut  up  and  boiled  in  oil. 

One  of  the  most  delicate  vegetables  they  call 
the  water-chestnut,  a  reddish  brown  bulb,  about 
as  large  as  an  Italian  chestnut,  and  resembling 
the  Indian  turnip.  They  are  pared  or  shaved 
with  but  little  waste  and  great  rapidity. 

The  Chinese  turnip  will  not  be  readily  recog- 
nized, except  by  its  faint  odor.  It  is  oval,  but 
quite  irregular  in  shape. 

The  bean  is  a  great  favorite,  and  of  it  there 
are  many  varieties,  some  exceedingly  small. 
Bean  sprouts  are  sold  in  all  the  vegetable  stores, 
and  bean  curd  is  a  staple  article  of  food.  One 
might  mistake  it  for  corn-starch  or  milk  curd. 
It  is  prepared  by  grinding  the  bean  and  boiling 
the  meal.  The  soft,  yellow-covered  cakes  on  the 
stands  in  the  street,  are  only  bean  curd. 

Colt's-foot  candy  is  not  an  article  of  food,  but 
that  which  resembles  it,  is  only  the  bean,  cooked 
and  drawn  out  into  sticks,  like  candy ;  and  the 
long,  thin, — dried  string-beans,  one  \vould  say, 
are  not  beans  at  all,  but — yellow  blossoms  to  be 
cooked  in  soup  with  lean  pork.  Besides  aspara- 
gus, lettuce,  celery  and  our  common  articles, 
mustard  leaves,  large  and  small,  are  much  used 
for  "  greens." 


285 


Pumpkins  and  squashes,  such  as  the  "Melican 
man  "  eats,  and  does  not  eat,  and  sweet  potatoes, 
dried  and  prepared  as  potato-rice  ;  and  yams, 
with  fibres  somewhat  resembling  those  adhering 
to  the  cocoa-nut  shell,  are  always  seen  about  the 
stores. 

Bamboo  is  cut  into  pieces  about  six  inches  in 
length,  split  and  preserved  in  brine,  and  cooked 
with  meat. 

Dried  olives,  black,  and  like  a  three-cornered 
piece  of  dried  plum,  are  kept  in  earthen  jars, 
and  cooked  with  meat.  Theabakme,  a  shell-fish, 
is  dried  and  exported  to  China.  A  sea-weed  that 
resembles  the  pulp  of  peaches,  dried  like  peach- 
leather,  is  a  curious  article  of  food,  and  may  be  as 
good  as  the  bird's-nests.  The  greasy  sausages 
are  not  attractive,  though  evidently  much  sought 
after. 

In  the  great  variety  of  preserved  fruits,  some 
are  food  fit  for  Americans.  The  ginger  root  is 
well  known,  and  not  less  pleasant  are  the  lemon, 
sliced  citron,  small  oranges,  water-melons,  olives, 
persimmons,  and  frozen  sugar. 

Of  nuts  there  are  many,  some  for  cooking,  and 
some  for  eating.  The  white  nut  is  like  a  small 
almond,  with  a  thin  shell  and  kernel,  and  is  used 
for  pastry. 

At  the  street  corners  are  little  packages  of 
brown  paper,with  slices  of  cocoa-nut,mingled  with 
the  curious  beetle  nut,  and  the  whole  is  daubed 
with  some  red  paste,  made  out  of  lime  juice  and 
colored  by  the  dust  of  the  street  and  some 
foreign  pinkish  earth. 

One  of  the  most  palatable  nuts  is  the  "  Lai 
Che,"  rougher  than  the  cup  of  an  acorn;  the 
meat  of  which  is  black  and  sweet,  and  the  seeds 
of  which. though  hard,  contain  a  delicate  kernel. 
The  pea-nut  is  found  on  all  the  stands,  but  the 
American  product  is  far  superior  to  the  Chinese. 

Water-melon  seeds  are  eaten  raw,  and  used  in 
cooking.  With  all  the  variety  of  edibles  from 
China,  of  which  only  a  few  of  the  most  striking 
and  common  have  been  named,  and  with  the 
new  dishes  adopted  in  this  country,  it  may  be 
hard  for  the  Celestial  to  arrange  his  bill  of  fare, 
but  they  find  rice  economical,  and  they  love  it 
dearly ;  yet  when  the  palate  of  one  was  tested  by 
asking  him,  "  Of  all  things  to  eat,  what  would 
you  rather  have  ?  "  He  reflected  for  a  time  and 
replied  deliberately,  but  with  emphasis  of  tone, 
"  Well,  me  likee  best  a  nice  piece  of  hog-meat." 

Temples. — These  are  to  be  found  in  almost 
every  town  containing  a  few  hundred  Chinamen, 
but  the  most  elaborate  are  in  San  Francisco. 

No  effort  is  made  to  present  an  attractive  ex- 
terior, although  more  money  is  expended  by 
Chinamen  in  proportion  to  their  means  upon 
their  temples  than  Americans  spend  upon  their 
churches. 

The  temples  are  not  under  the  control  of  the 
six  companies,  or  in  any  way  connected  with 
them,  nor  does  the  relations  of  any  one  to  his 


company  affect  his  place,  or  time  of  worship- 
ing.     The  chief  temples  are 

1.  On   Clay    Street,   opposite    the    south-west 
corner  of  the  Plaza,  in  the  building  in  which 
the   Hop   Wo   Company  has  its  head-quarters, 
and  for  this  reason  sometimes  distinguished  as 
the  Hop  Wo  Temple. 

2.  The  Dupont  Street  Temple,  with  entrance 
from  Dupont  near  Jackson,  and  also  from  Jack- 
son, near  Dupont. 

3.  The   Pine    Street   Temple,    entrance    just 
above  Kearney,  in  the   building  of  the  Kong 
Chow  Asylum. 

4.  The  Brooklyn  Place  Temple,  off  Sacramento 
Street  near  Stockton. 

5.  The  Jackson  Street  Temple,  on  the  north 
side  of  Jackson,  near  Stockton. 

The  most  popular  among  the  Chinese  is  the 
one  on  Brooklyn  Place,  but  it  is  small,  retired, 
with  only  one  god,  and  not  attractive  to  tourists. 

The  most  desirable  to  visit  are  the  first  two- 
mentioned.  The  Clay  Street  is  the  newest, 
most  elaborate  and  expensive,  but  the  Dupont 
Street  contains  about  four  times  as  many  goda 
as  any  other. 

The  temple  on  Jackson  Street  is  devoted  to 
the  worship  of 

Ma  Chw, — the  goddess  of  sailors,  and  'her 
two  assistants,  on  either  side  of  her.  She  ha» 
had  various  high-sounding  titles  bestowed  upon 
her,  the  most  common  of  which  is  "  Tin  Han" 
the  Heavenly  Queen,  and  to  her  the  boatmen  cry 
often,  in  piteous  tones,  "  Grandmother  Ma. 
Chu !  "  "  Grandmother  Ma  Chu  ! " 

This  goddess  was  the  daughter  of  a  sea-faring 
man,  whose  sons  followed  the  father's  uncertain 
and  stormy  life.  While  weaving  one  day  she 
fell  asleep  and  her  weary  head  rested  on  her 
loom,  where  she  saw,  in  a  dream,  her  father  and 
two  brothers  and  their  respective  junks,  periled 
in  a  terrific  storm.  She  agonized  to  rescue  them 
from  danger,  and  seized  her  brothers'  junks,  one 
in  each  hand,  and  her  father's  in  her  mouth.  As 
she  dragged  them  to  the  shore,  she  heard  her 
mother's  voice  calling,  and,  with  dutiful  spirit, 
but  great  forgetfulness  of  her  father's  danger, 
she  opened  her  mouth  to  answer,  and  awoke 
from  her  dream ;  but  in  a  few  days  tidings  came 
of  a  dreadful  storm  and  the  loss  of  the  father's 
junk  and  the  safety  of  the  brothers.  Her  dream 
has  given  her  more  honor  than  Pharaoh's  gave 
Joseph,  and  the  Virgin  Mary  has  no  loftier  titles. 
Thank  offerings  are  made  to  her  by  boatmen, 
after  every  deliverance  from  peril.  One  of  her 
assistants  is  "  Favorable-wind-ear,"  and  the 
other, "  Thousand-mile-eye." 

In  this  temple  are  also  the  gods  that  -were 
formerly  in  a  large  temple  off  Dupont  and 
Jackson  streets. 

The  temple  on  Pine  Street  is  devoted  to  Kwan 
Tai,  the  god  of  war.  It  is  in  the  building  of 
the  Kong  Chow  Asylum,  and  has  connected  with 


287 


it  a  room  for  ancestral  worship.  The  asylum 
has  a  large  hall  for  the  public  meetings  of  the 
company. 

The  stranger  in  San  Francisco  will  visit  the 
temples  on  Clay  Street  and  Jackson  Street,  if 
no  others.  The  Clay  Street  has  taken  away  some 
of  the  tinsel  that  formerly  adorned  the  one  on  Du- 
pont  Street,  and  is  the  most  elaborate,  having 
cost  about  $30,000,  and  is  dedicated  to  the  worship 
of  Kwan  Tai,  and  this  same  god  occupies  the 
central  place  in  several  other  temples. 

He  is  the  most  popular  of  all  the  gods,  and  is 
always  red-faced,  with  a  long,  black  beard. 

On  the  walls  of  every  temple  and  about  the 
entrances  are  seen  red  placards — the  records  of 
the  gifts  made  for  establishing  and  supporting  it. 
The  "  Heathen  Chinee,"  unlike  the  American 
Christians,  who  always  give  their  alms  in  secret, 
connect  merit  and  worship  with  these  gifts,  some- 
times burning  incense  before  the  names  of  the 
donors,  while  an  attending  priest  offers  prayers 
for  blessings  on  them. 

In  the  Clay  Street  Temple  is  an  elaborate  piece 
of  gilt,  carved  wood,  representing  mythology  and 
history.  It  cost  about  $3,000,  and  is  enclosed  in 
glass,  covered  with  wire.  Other  pieces  of  carv- 
ing, similar  in  character,  are  suspended  about 
the  room ;  but  the  significance  of  them  is  as 
mysterious  as  the  ponderous  classics  of  Confu- 
cius and  Mencius. 

Richly  embroidered  silk  banners — all  hand- 
wrought,  are  ready  to  be  carried  in  front  of  or 
over  the  idol  when  he  goes  out  in  procession  on 
festal  days.  Spears  are  used  at  the  same  time 
for  his  protection,  and  flags  carried  to  declare 
his  authority. 

From  the  ceiling  are  suspended  tablets  with 
mottoes  inscribed  upon  them,  and  some  are 
placed  vertically  on  the  inner  or  outer  walls, 
and  the  door-posts. 

Some  of  the  temporary  ones  contain  good 
mottoes  ;  others  are  thank-offerings.  One  of  the 
latter,  richly  embroidered  and  fringed,  (now  in 
the  Clay  Street  Temple,)  is  a  thank-offering  of 
Doctor  Lai  Po  Tai,  and  has  four  Chinese  char- 
acters, to  wit :  "  Shing,  Shan,  Mo,  Keung,"  i.  e., 
"  the  gods  whose  holy  age  is  perpetual." 

This  doctor  has  amassed  a  fortune,  by  con- 
summate skill  in  the  grossest  quackery,  and 
without  performing  any  wonderful  cures,  has 
tried  his  hand  on  many  rich  and  noble  ones,  and 
among  them  even  a  noted  professional  of  an 
eastern  city,  who  proved  in  his  experience  the 
truth  of  the  familiar  adage,  "  never  too  old  to 
learn." 

The  doctor  lighted  a  match  in  his  room,  when 
it  was  filled  with  gas,  and  as  a  consequence  had 
to  secure  himself  the  skill  of  American  physi- 
cians; he  barely  escaped  death,  and  then  com- 
memorated his  recovery  by  this  thank-offering, 
placed  originally  in  the  Dupont  Street,  but  subse- 
quently removed  to  the  Clay  Street  Temple. 


i  The  neatest  of  the  temples  or  Josh  Houses  is 
the  Clay  Street,  but  all  are  dirty,  dingy  and 
doleful.  A  heaven  of  such  character,  would  be 
desirable  to  no  civilized  people,  and  the  temples 
impress  one  concerning  the  religious  taste  of  the 
Chinese,  as  an  ignorant  and  irreverent  hater  of 
the  Jews  seemed  to  be  impressed,  when  he  re- 
marked to  a  friend,  "  And  you  tell  me  that  the 
Jews  were  the  chosen  people — God's  peculiar  peo- 
ple? I  think  it  showed  a  very  poor  taste  on 
God's  part." 

The  ornamentation  is  of  the  cheapest,  most 
miserable  tinsel,  gay  and  gaudy,  smoked  and 
begrimed  with  dirt,  and  the  air  laden  with  a 
nauseating  odor  of  incense  from  grateful  sandal- 
wood,  mingled  with  the  deadly  fumes  of  the 
opium  pipe,  and  the  horrible  smell  of  oil  lamps 
and  many-colored  vegetable  tallow  candles. 

Spread  out  before  the  gods  there  is  usually 
roast  chicken  and  pig,  sweetmeats  or  cakes,  and 
always  vessels  or  libations  of  tea,  and  a  burning 
lamp.  Every  one  will  be  likely  to  wonder  how 
the  gods  dispose  of  all  the  food,  and  why  the 
constant  and  large  supply  of  tea  does  not  weaken 
the  nerves,  but  the  gods  consume  only  the  imma- 
terial and  essential  parts  of  the  offering,  after 
which  the  meats,  fruits,  pyramids  of  cakes,  the 
vermicelli  of -rice  flour  and  other  articles  are  car- 
ried home  to  be  eaten  by  the  offerers. 

The  gods  are  always  enthroned  in  an  alcove, 
out  of  which  their  hideously  extorted  and  repul- 
sively daubed  faces  look  with  fiendish  malignity 
or  silly  unmeaningness. 

The  bell  is  a  fixture  of  every  temple,  and  also 
the  drum,  the  former  curious  with  dragon  orna- 
mentations, and  the  latter  with  stout  raw-hide 
and  huge  copper  rivets.  Their  purpose  is  easily 
guessed,  for  sometimes  these  gods  are  "  asleep," 
or  "  on  a  journey."  There  is  also  a  box  placed 
on  a  high  stand,  "and  carefully  closed,  containing 
the  great  seal,  and  which  ought  to  be  a  better 
possession,  than  Alladin's  lamp. 

An  oven  is  also  a  common  fixture  to  accommo- 
date in  the  burning  of  mock-money,  or  mock- 
clothing,  or  any  representation,  the  reality  of 
which  the  gods  receive  through  the  power  of 
fire. 

There  are  no  set  times  for  worship,  except  feast 
and  festival  days,  such  as  the  birthdays  of  the 
gods. 

The  calendar  which  determines  these  days  is 
very  abstruse,  and  no  logarithms,  differential,  or 
integral  calculus  would  make  it  intelligible. 
They  have  "  big  months  "  and  "  little  months  " 
of  30  or  29  days,  and  this  year,  1876,  has  13 
months ;  i.  e.,  a  sort  of  leap-year,  with  two,  fifth 
months. 

On  festival  days  huge  paper  images  of  the  gods 
are  made  and  carried  in  processions  through  the 
streets,  and  then  allowed  to  remain  in  the  temple 
for  a  season. 

The  artificial  flowers  are  generally  renewed 


288 


once  a  year ;  in  fact,  in  no  other  nation,  is  there 
*  more  general  change  —  so  many  new  leaves 
turned  over,  as  in  the  Chinese  New  Year. 

Large  urns  and  pewter  and  brass  vessels  of 
shapes  and  styles  that  the  gods  are  supposed  to 
appreciate,  are  used  for  burning  sandal-wood 
sticks  or  incense. 

There  is  the  greatest  irreverence  and  confu- 
sion in  their  worship — one  never  paying  regard 
to  the  devotions  of  another.  In  one  quarter  of 
the  room  some  may  jabber  while  others  are 
throwing  the  ka-pue,  or  shaking  the  bamboo 
splints,  or  consulting  the  spirits,  or  prostrating 
themselves  to  the  earth. 

Peacock  feathers,  which  are  "flower,"  "green," 
"  one-eyed,"  "  two-eyed,"  or  "  three-eyed,"  and 
used  as  marks  of  honor,  and  designate  ranks 
like  epaulets  in  the  army,  and  the  sinuosities  of 
the  "  dragon,"  "  the  greatest  benefactor  of  man- 
kind," "  the  protecting  deity  of  the  empire,"  and 
the  "  national  coat  of  arms,"  are  used  wherever 
possible. 

One  dragon,  called  the  true  dragon,  is  jive-claw- 
ed, and  this  one  the  emperor  appropriates  to  him- 
self, and  the  whole  of  it  is  never  visible  in  one 
picture — if  the  head  is  visible  the  tail  is  out  of 
sight.  It  has  scales  but  no  ears,  yet  has  two 
horns,  through  which  it  is  said  to  hear. 

Mode  of  Worshiping  and  Consulting 
tlie  Gods. — On  entering  the  temple,  the  wor- 
shiper makes  the  "  Kow-Tow,"  striking  the  floor 
•with  his  head  three  times. 

In  consulting  the  gods,  the  ka-pue,  or  divining 
sticks  are  used,  and  also  bamboo  slips. 

The  ka-pue  are  pieces  of  wood  six  or  eight 
inches  long,  and  shaped  like  the  half  of  a  split 
bean.  One  is  held  in  each  hand,  they  are  then 
placed  together,  and  while  bowing  let  fall  to  the 
ground.  If  both  flat  surfaces  rest  on  the  ground, 
"  bad  luck  to  ye ; "  both  flat  surfaces  upward 
mean  indifference,  or  equivalent  to  "  cocked " 
dice ;  and  when  one  flat  and  one  rounded  surface 
rest  on  the  ground,  the  favor  of  the  god  is  assured. 

Sometimes  the  worshiper  holds  a  bunch  of 
small  incense  sticks  in  his  hand,  while  he  pros- 
trates himself,  and  whenever  the  first  effort  is 
not  successful,  "  the  best  out  of  three,"  and  even 
the  "  best  out  of  three  times  three,"  or  further 
trial  will  answer  as  well. 

The  bamboo  slips  are  contained  in  tin  or 
bamboo  canisters,  about  a  foot  high,  and  three 
inches  in  diameter.  They  are  kept  by  the  priest 
in  charge  of  the  temple,  but  whose  services  do 
not  seem  at  all  necessary  for  the  ordinary 
worshiper.  On  each  slip  are  numbers  or  char- 
acters corresponding  to  slips  of  paper,  which 
contain  directions  or  answers  like  boots  and 
shoes,  "  ready-made  and  warranted  to  fit." 
After  bowing  thrice,  the  worshiper  kneels,  and 
shakes  the  slips  till  one  falls  to  the  floor.  The 
approval  of  the  god  is  sought  on  this  lot,  and  the 
process  must  be  repeated  till  a  favorable  answer 


is  obtained.  Sometimes  the  deity  does  not 
know  the  circumstances  of  the  case,  and  must 
be  informed  thereof  by  burning  paper  that  con- 
tains the  necessary  information.  Sometimes  he 
must  be  propitiated  by  offerings  of  mock-money, 
white  or  yellow,  (silver  or  gold)  and  sometimes 
by  food. 

The  priest  receives  a  fee  for  the  slip  of  paper 
in  his  charge,  and  he  is  sometimes  employed  to 
write  letters,  and  sometimes  his  services  as  a 
medium  must  be  had.  For  this  latter,  he  stands 
at  a  table,  on  which  is  a  slight  covering  of  sand, 
and  there  repeats  his  incantations  until  he  at- 
tains the  clairvoyant  or  mediumistic  state,  and 
then  he  writes  with  a  stick,  under  direction  of  the 
spirits,  what  is  intelligible  to  no  one  else,  but 
what  he  never  fails  to  interpret. 

Kwan  Tai  is  the  deity  of  the  Clay  Street  and 
the  central  figure  in  the  Pine  Street  Josh 
House.  He  is  a  great  favorite.  "  Chinaman  he 
likee  him  heap  muchee,  and  he  likee  Chinaman 
too." 

Small  images  of  him  are  sometimes  seen  in 
stores  and  dwellings.  He  is  the  Mars  of  the 
Flowery  Kingdom  a  "Military  Sage,"  and  is 
worshiped  for  success  in  contests  of  almost  every 
character,  and  grows  in  favor  from  year  to  year. 
He  was  a  distinguished  officer  who  flourish- 
ed in  the  later  Han  dynasty,  and  was  promi- 
nent in  the  wars  which  then  agitated  the  three 
States. 

In  the  Jackson  Street  Temple,  there  are  other 
deities,  two  of  which  will  be  easily  recog- 
nized :  Wah  Tali,  the  god  of  medicine,  who 
holds  in  his  left  hand  the  well-coated  pill,  and 
who  is  consulted  for  diseases  of  all  sorts,  and 
Tsoi  Pak  Siting  Kwun,  the  god  of  wealth,  who 
holds  a  bar  of  bullion.  He  is  the  patron  deity 
of  merchants,  and  all  receivers  of  moneys,  and, 
around  his  cabinet  or  throne,  are  pasted  many 
mottoes  or  charms,  such  as  "  Protect  us  with 
Heaven's  chief  wealth." 

Other  deities  here  are  Nam  Hai  Hung  Shing 
Tai,  the  god  of  fire,  or  "  the  Fiery  Ruler  of  the 
Southern  Regions ; "  the  local  god  of  Canton,  a 
"  Great  and  Holy  King." 

Yun  Ten  Tin  is  the  god  of  the  sombre 
Heavens,  able  to  prevent  conflagrations,  and 
eating  vegetables  only. 

In  the  room  on  the  east  side  of  the  main  room, 
is  the  Goddess  of  Mercy  held  in  great  venera- 
tion by  married  women.  She  is  especially 
worshiped  on  the  first  and  fifteenth  of  every 
month.  The  god  of  the  Southern  Mountain,  or 
local  god  of  Canton,  is  much  worshiped. 

In  the  many  gods,  there  is  a  great  variety,  and 
some  confusion ;  but  the  Chinamen  think  they 
have  great  advantage  over  our  religion.  They 
have  gods  in  the  temple,  and  gods  at  home,  and 
one  of  the  heathen  remarked  to  an  American  who 
reviled  his  polytheism  : 

"  Chinaman  religion  heap  better  Melican  man's. 


289 


You  go  church  Sunday  little  while ;  you  come  home, 
and  allee  week  you  lie  and  steal,  and  do  heap 
muchee  bad  things.  Chinaman,  he  got  gods  at 
home,  see  him  allee  time,  Chinaman  must  be  always 
good." 

In  the  rear  of  the  temple,  there  is  a  room  for 
the  sale  of  incense,  and  other  articles  used  in 
worship,  the  profit  of  which  goes  to  the  priest. 
The  candles  are  all  of  vegetable  tallow,  made 
from  seeds  or  kernels,  which  grow  in  clusters  on 
the  tallow-tree.  Beef  tallow  would  be  offensive  to 
the  gods,  for  the  ox  and  buffalo  are  animals  of 
merit,  and  the  odor  of  burning  animal  fat, 
would  be  repugnant  to  the  nostrils  of  the 
deities. 

Gambling. — In  this  they  have  an  advantage 
over  our  own  race, — in  a  god  of  gambling,  a 
dilapidated,  seedy  individual,  with  cue  coiled 
around  the  head,  and  a  gambling  card  in  his 
hair,  and  also  in  worshiping  the  tiger,  grasping 
in  his  mouth  or  paws  a  large  cash.  "  His  Ex- 
cellency, the  Grasping  Cash  Tiger,"  is  usually 
pictured  on  wood  or  paper,  and  is  sometimes 
winged,  like  pictures  of  another,  "  His  Excellency 
the  Devil.' 

The  Chinese  are  fond  of  gambling,  and  have 
invented  many  methods  of  playing  for  money. 

Their  dens  in  the  business  quarter  are  many, 
always  with  a  white  sign,  and  usually  far  back 
with  a  sentinel  at  the  entrance  from  the  street,  to 
give  the  alarm  of  an  approaching  officer,  or  to 
turn  away  the  "  white  foreign  devils  "  who  may 
have  too  great  a  thirst  for  knowledge.  Some- 
times as  many  as  three  doors  and  sentinels 
must  be  passed. 

There  is  many  an  "  Ah  Sin  "  who  can  natter, 
shame,  threaten  and  lead  on  his  victim.  In 
China  both  gambling  and  lotteries  are  unlawful; 
but  it  is  easy  to  bribe  officials  there,  and  here 
the  Chinese  practice  these  same  old  arts.  Any 
and  everything  will  be  gambled  away,  from  their 
money  to  their  shoes — they  gamble  with  bamboo 
slips,  all  held  as  if  for  drawing  lots,  and  giving 
the  cash  to  the  only  one  which,  when  drawn,  has 
a  string  attached  to  it,  with  defective  poetry,  in 
which  the  missing  word  is  to  be  guessed ;  and 
with  a  revolving  pointer,  with  cards,  dice,  and 
dominoes,  but  the  most  popular  of  all  the  games 
is  that  of  "  Fan  Tan,"  usually  contracted  into 
"  Tan,"  a  game  foreign  to  the  Chinese,  and 
the  origin  of  which  is  more  mysterious  than 
that  of  chess,  but  which  means  "  spread  out 
money." 

As  only  Chinamen  are  admitted  in  San  Fran- 
cisco to  the  sacred  precincts  of  these  resorts,  the 
game  can  not  be  seen  except  by  special  favor.  In 
some  interior  towns  the  Chinese  are  not  unwil- 
ling to  admit  visitors.  It  is  somewhat  similar  to 
the  popular  American  game  of  faro,  but  so  much 
simpler  in  all  the  appurtenances  of  the  play,  that 
when  a  lucky  raid  of  the  police  is  made  through 
the  quickly  barred  doors  and  winding  passages, 


the  only  implements  left  are  a  table,  a  few  chairs, 
an  empty  bowl  and  a  pile  of  beans. 

The  game  is  played  on  a  table,  around  which 
the  players  sit.  The  sides  of  the  table,  or,  of  a 
board,  which  lies  upon  a  table  are  numbered, 
"  one,"  "  two,"  "  three,"  and  "  four."  Cash, 
a  round  Chinese  coin,  with  a  square  hole 
in  the  center,  worth  one-tenth  of  a  cent, 
were  formerly  used,  but  as  the  seizure  of 
money  is  evidence  of  gambling,  they  now  use 
beans  instead  of  cash.  A  large  pile  of  them  is 
laid  on  the  table  and  covered  wholly,  or  in  part, 
by  an  inverted  bowl,  and  the  betting  commences 
on  either  "  one,"  "  two,"  "  three,"  or  "  four." 
The  money  may  be  laid  on  the  sides  correspond- 
ing to  the  numbers,  or  as  is  now  generally 
practised,  papers  having  the'  amount  of  the  re- 
spective bets,  written  on  them,  are  placed  on 
the  table  instead  of  the  coin. 

The  cover  is  then  removed,  and  the  beans  are 
drawn  away,  four  at  a  time,  and  the  side  of  the 
table  wins,  according  to  the  remainder,  one,  two, 
three,  or  nothing.  Sometimes  the  bet  is  taken 
on  the  corners,  dividing  the  chances  of  two  sides. 
The  keeper  of  the  house  receives  a  percentage  of 
all  the  money  paid,  varying,  it  is  said,  from  three 
to  nine  per  cent. 

There  are  nearly  two  hundred  of  these  gam- 
bling houses  in  the  city,  and  they  furnish  a  rich 
living  to  the  policemen,  who  levy  black-mail  on 
them,  varying,  it  is  said,  from  five  to  twenty  dol- 
lars a  week. 

The  Theatres. — There  are  two  on  opposite 
sides  of  Jackson  Street,  just  below  Dupont.  The 
most  popular  is  the  oldest,  the  "  Chinese  Royal," 
on  the  north  side  of  the  street.  The  entrance  to 
this  is  through  a  long  passage,  about  five  feet 
wide,  lined  with  the  tables  of  fruit  and  cake 
venders. 

The  auditorium  has  a  parquette,  that  seats 
about  600  and  a  gallery  for  about  250;  a 
smaller  gallery  for  about  50  Chinese  women, 
and  two  private  boxes,  void  of  all  comfort  from 
cushions,  curtains  or  cleanliness,  but  elevated 
and  roomy  enough  for  six  persons,  near  the 
stage  and  offering  the  only  chances  for  securing 
reserved  seats. 

The  price  of  admission  varies  with  time  of 
entrance.  Early  in  the  evening,  "  barbarians  " 
are  charged  four  bits,  but  the  Celestials  find  open 
doors  to  the  front  or  best  seats,  for  two  bits. 
After  ten  o'clock,  the  Melican  man  can  secure  an 
entrance  for  two  bits,  and  any  one  going  at  this 
hour  can  see  all  he  desires  before  the  end  is  an- 
nounced. The  best  parts  of  the  play  are  seldom 
reached  before  11  o'clock,  and  the  play  kept  up 
often  until  2  or  3  o'clock.  For  a  private  box, 
$2.50  is  charged. 

There  are  no  stage-curtains,  no  flies,  or  shift- 
ing scenes,  no  decorations  of  any  kind,  simply  a 
platform,  at  the  rear  of  which  the  orchestra  sits, 
and  on  either  side  of  the  musicians,  is  a  door  for 


290 


INTERIOR  OF  CHINESE  THEATRE. 


ingress  or  exit.  As  the  deception  is  perfectly 
apparent,  when  one  falls  in  war  or  passion,  and 
is  not  carried  off  the  stage,  nor  hidden  behind 
the  drop,  but  rises  and  trots  away,  there  is  a 
decided  feeling  that  the  whole  thing  is  "too 
thin  "  for  long  enjoyment. 

The  acting  is  as  rude  as  all  the  surroundings, 
yet  it  is  often  true  to  Chinese  life.  During 
the  play  of  a  comedy,  the  whole  audience  has 
been  convulsed  with  laughter,  over  and  over 
again,  almost  without  cessation,  suddenly  break- 
ing out  in  loud  exclamations  ;  but  usually  their 
faces  are  unmoved,  except  as  they  munch  the 
pea-nuts,  sugar-cane,  etc.,  peddled  throughout 
the  room,  or  as  they  sink  into  dreamy  contem- 
plation, under  the  satisfying  influence  of  a 
pure  Havana  of  their  own  make. 

The  costumes  are  a  marvel  of  gaudiness,  but 
devoid  of  all  elegance.  The  plays  are  nearly  all 
of  historic  character, — rebels  plotting  for  pos- 
session of  the  government,  sometimes  seated  on 
the  throne ;  messengers  sent  out  to  negotiate ; 
and  encounters  between  the  rival  factions. 

Sometimes  a  love  plot  is  enacted  when  the  old 
loan  and  old  woman  torture  and  rack  the«irl, 


and  the  miser  is  apt  to  appear  with  his  bag  of 
gold  to  be  stolen  or  wrested  from  him  over  his 
dead  body. 

In  nearly  every  play  there  are  acrobatic  feats 
of  a  truly  creditable  character.  The  actors 
whirl  and  double  up  and  turn  somersaults,  till 
the  modern  gymnast  is  quite  put  to  shame. 

There  is  no  great  variety  of  performers — no 
"  stars  "  on  the  stage,  but  some  plays  draw  more 
than  others ;  and  what  is  most  striking,  there  are 
no  female  performer^.  Men  dressed  as  women 
talk  in  a  sing-song  tone,  and  falsetto  voice.  The 
deception  in  this  respect  is  greater  than  any 
other,  and  foreigners  would  go  away  fully  con- 
vinced, that  they  had  listened  to  female  perform- 
ers and  heard  attempts  to  sing,  unless  told  to  the 
contrary. 

The  music  is  simply  horrible.  Wkile  the  men 
in  the  audience  and  the  orchestra  sit  with  hats 
on,  the  orchestra  may  have  their  coats  off,  work- 
ing away  like  blacksmiths  on  the  loud  cymbals, 
triangles,  guitar,  fiddles,  gongs  and  wind  instru- 
ments, keeping  up  an  incessant  din  scarcely  less 
than  infernal. 

But  the  Chinese  enjoy  their  theatre,  and  for 


291 


interesting  plays,  or  at  intervals  of  a  few  months, 
when  a  new  play  begins,  the  house  will  be 
crowded.  In  China,  a  company  of  actors  is  fre- 
quently hired  to  play  at  home. 

Funerals  and  Honoring  the  Dead. — 
The  funerals  are  conducted  with  great  pomp. 
The  corpse  is  sometimes  placed  on  the  side- 
walk, with  a  roast  hog,  and  innumerable  other 
dishes  of  cooked  food  near  it,  when  hired  mourn- 
ers with  white  sheets  about  them,  and  two  or 
three  priests  as  masters  of  ceremony,  and  an 
orchestra  of  their  hideous  music,  keep  up  for 
hours  such  unearthly  sounds  as  ought  to 
frighten  away  all  evil  spirits. 

The  wagon-load  of  food  precedes  the  corpse 
to  the  grave,  and  from  it  is  strewn  "  cash,"  on 
paper  to  open  an  easy  passage  to  the  "  happy 
hunting  grounds  "  of  the  other  world. 

Ancestral  Worship — is  the  most  common 
of  all  worship  among  the  Chinese.  Tablets 
may  be  seen  in  stores,  dwellings  and  rooms  con- 
nected with  temples.  Its  origin  is  shrouded 
in  mystery.  One  account  derives  it  from  an  at- 
tendant to  a  prince  about  350  B.  C.  The  prince 
while  traveling,  was  about  to  perish  from  hun- 
ger, when  he  cut  a  piece  of  flesh  from  his  thigh, 
and  had  it  cooked  for  his  master,  and  perished 
soon  after.  When  the  prince  found  the  corpse 
of  the  devoted  servant,  he  was  moved  to  tears, 
and  erected  a  tablet  to  his  memory,  and  made 
daily  offerings  of  incense  before  it.  Other 
absurd  stories  of  filial  devotion  are  told  for  the 
same  purpose. 

The  ancestral  tablet  of  families,  varies  from 
two  to  three  inches  in  width,  and  12  to  18  in 
height,  and  some  are  cheap  and  others  costly. 
There  are  usually  three  pieces  of  wood,  one  a 
pedestal  and  two  uprights,  but  sometimes  only 
two  pieces  are  used.  One  of  the  upright  pieces 
projects  forward  over  the  other  from  one  to  three 
inches. 

One  tablet  can  honor  only  one  individual,  and 
is  worshiped  for  from  three  to  five  generations. 
To  the  spirit  of  ancestors  a  sacrifice  of  meats, 
vegetables,  fruits,  etc.,  is  often  made  with  mag- 
nificence and  pomp,  and  the  annual  worship  of 
ancestral  dead  at  their  tombs,  is  of  national  ob- 
servance, and  occurs  usually  in  April,  and 
always  106  days  after  the  winter  solstice. 

The  offerings  are  more  plentiful  than  the 
meats  at  a  barbecue  in  the  Far  South,  carcasses 
of  swine,  ducks,  chickens,  wagon-loads  of  all  sorts 
of  food  and  cups  of  tea,  are  deposited  at  the 
graves;  fire-crackers  continually  exploded,  and 
mock  money  and  mock  clothing  freely  consumed. 
All  kneel  and  bow  in  turn  at  the  grave,  from  the 
highest  to  the  lowest. 

As  in  the  case  of  the  gods,  the  dead  consume 
the  immaterial  and  essential  elements,  and  leave 
the  coarse  parts  for  the  living.  Unlike  the  gods, 
the  dead  consume  ducks.  "  Idol  no  likee  duck, 
likee  pork,  chicken,  fruits." 


New  Year — is  the  great  season  for  social 
pleasure — the  universal  holiday.  All  work 
ceases  for  the  day,  for  a  week  or  two  weeks  ;  and 
the  stores  are  never  closed  except  at  this  season  ; 
and  the  prosperity  and  standing  of  firms  is  meas- 
ured by  the  length  of  time  the  store  is  shut.  In 
China,  stores  are  sometimes  closed  for  two  or  three 
months.  Every  one  makes  New  Year's  calls,  and 
gives  himself  up  to  enjoyment,  and  before  New 
Year  all  debts  must  be  paid,  and  accounts  ad- 
justed. 

The  Method  of  Calculating  and  Count- 
ing— is  very  rapid,  and  may  be  seen  in  any  store. 
Counters  are  strung  like  beads  on  wires  and 
framed,  and  astonishing  results  reached  with 
these  before  "  the  barbarian  "  has  written  down 
his  figures.  For  writing  they  use  rice-paper, 
India  ink  and  camel's-hair  pencils. 

Opium  Smoking — is  a  common  practice. 
Restaurants,  the  Clay  Street  and  Dupont  Street 
Temples,  many  stores  and  shops  have  the  low 
tables  or  hard  lounges  on  which  the  smokers  re- 
cline. 

A  block  serves  for  a  pillow.  The  opium,  pipe, 
lamp  and  a  five-inch  steel  needle  are  all  that  is 
necessary  to  bind  the  victim  in  fatal  fascination. 
The  poisonous  drug  is  boiled  into  a  thick  jelly- 
like  mass,  and  with  the  needle  a  small  portion  is 
scraped  from  the  vessel  containing  it,  rolled  into 
a  pill  on  the  end  of  the  needle,  and  placed  in  the 
flame  until  it  swells  like  a  soap-bubble,  half  an 
inch  in  diameter. 

The  pipe  has  an  inverted  bowl  with  a  flat,  cir- 
cular top,  two  inches  in  diameter,  in  the  center 
of  which  is  a  small  opening,  in  which  the  heated 
paste  is  placed,  and  as  the  smoker  reclines  on 
his  side  he  places  the  pipe  to  the  flame  and  takes 
two  or  three  short  whiffs,  removes  the  pipe,  and 
lies  back  motionless,  while  the  smoke  is  blown 
slowly  through  his  pallid  nostrils.  He  repeats 
the  process  till  he  falls  back  in  a  state  of  silly 
stupefaction,  alike  pitiable  and  disgusting.  Once 
formed,  the  habit  is  never  given  up,  and  only 
three  or  five  years  will  wreck  the  strongest 
constitution  and  noblest  manhood. 

Exaggerated  stories  are  told  of  visits  to  these 
dens  by  youth  and  women  of  American  descent, 
for  indulging  in  this  vice,  but  they  are  rare  and 
only  by  the  lowest  classes  of  the  women. 

Why  Americans  do  not  Speak  the 
Chinese  Language. — There  is  no  alphabet, 
and  the  characters  used  are  variously  estimated 
at  from  25,000  to  80,000. 

There  is  one  written  language,  but  twenty  or 
more  dialects,  as  the  natives  have  twenty  or  more 
ways  of  pronouncing  the  numerals  1,  2  and  3, 
which  are  alike  to  the  eye  of  the  Frenchman  and 
German. 

The  dialects  may  also  be  written.  And  each 
of  the  numerous  characters  may  have  a  widely 
different  meaning  by  the  slightest  change  of  tone 
or  inflection. 


A  teacher,  with  some  knowledge  of  the  lan- 
guage, was  instructing  the  class  in  Bible  truth 
and  endeavoring  to  tell  the  interesting  story  of 
Samson  slaying  a  lion  with  the  jaw-bone  of  an 
ass,  and  perceived  a  strange  look  on  the  scholars' 
faces,  and  found  that  the  slightest  error  of  in- 
flection had  made  the  story  run — "  he  killed  the 
lion  with  the  jaw-bone  of  a  louse" 

To  convert  them  to  Christianity  is  a  difficult 
work,  for  many  reasons.  Besides  the  barrier  of 
a  language  that  is  almost  impossible  to  acquire, 
many  of  the  characters  express  inadequately  the 
ideas  of  the  Christian  religion,  and  the  Chinese 
often  form  erroneous  opinions  concerning  it, 
from  other  sources.  One  was  questioned,  and 
replied  as  follows : 

Q.  "Jake,  do  you  know  God  ?"  A.  "  God  ? 
No — No  sabee  "  (shaking  his  head  and  wearing 
a  vacant  look).  Q.  "  God,  Melican  man's  Josh 
— you  no  sabee  God  ?  "  A.  "  No,  me  no  sabee 
God."  Q.  "You  sabee  Jesus  Christ?"  A.  "Yes, 
me  sabee  him,  JesusChrist.  Duffy  call  him  cows. " 

Iiw  V/unese  Missions. — An  eminent  Jesuit 
has  said,  as  quoted  in  The  Monitor :  "  These 
pagans,  these  vicious,  these  immoral  creatures 
are  incapable  of  rising  to  the  virtue  that  is 
inculcated  by  the  religion  of  Jesus  Christ,  the 
World's  Redeemer  and  the  Catholics  make  no 
attempt  to  instruct  them  in  true  devotion  to  the 
Virgin  or  the  church. 

The  oldest  and  largest  mission  is  that  of  the 
Presbyterians,  at  the  corner  of  Sacramento  and 
Stockton  Streets,  where  an  evening  school  is  held 
daily  except  Sunday,  when  religious  services  and 
Sunday-school  are  held.  Rev.  Dr.  Loomis, 
who  speaks  the  Cantonese  dialect,  and  his  wife, 
six  other  Americans  and  three  Chinese  assist- 
ants, are  connected  with  this  mission  and  its 
out-stations,  San  Jose  and  Santa  Rosa.  Besides 
the  school  there  is  a  home  for  Chinese  women 
with  over  twenty  inmates,  to  which  the  super- 
intendent and  a  band  of  Christian  women  seek 
to  gather  the  unfortunate  and  degraded  for  in- 
structions in  sewing,  embroidery  and  other 
useful  occupations  and  moral  reform. 

There  is  a  church  connected  with  the  Pres- 
byterian Mission,  of  eightv  members,  and  another 
with  the  Methodist  Mission  of  seventy  members. 

At  Los  Angelos  is  a  mission  commenced  by 
Rev.  Ira  M.  Condit,  now  in  care  of  Rev.  Mr. 
Nevin,  of  the  U.  P.  Church.  Both  of  these 
speak  the  Cantonese  dialect. 

Mr.  Condit  and  wife  established  and  have 
now  a  nourishing  mission  in  Oakland,  with  a 
church  membership  of  fifty-eight,  and  a  station 
at  Sacramento  with  thirty  Christian  members. 

With  every  church  or  mission  is  a  Y.  M.  C. 
Association. 

Tfie  Methodist  -Mission  is  on  Washington 
Street,  above  Stockton,  and  efficiently  managed 
under  the  zealous  superintendency  of  Rev.  ^Otis 
Gibson,  formerly  a  missionary  at  Fuchu.  This 


has  a  branch  at  San  Jose,  schools  and  home  for 
women,  and  several  assistants  like  the  mission 
before  described. 

On  the  west  side  of  "  The  Plaza  "  opposite  the 
City  Hall,  are  the  head-quarters  of  the  Amer- 
ican Missionary  Association,  connected  with 
which  are  several  schools  in  Oakland,  Santa 
Barbara,  and  other  parts  of  the  State. 

The  Baptists  have  also  a  flourishing  mission 
on  Washington  Street,  near  Dupont,  and  many 
of  the  churches  have  .Sjmday  Schools  for  the 
Chinese, 

The  whole  number  in  evening  schools  is 
stated  by  8.  Wells  Williams  as  2,750,  and  aver- 
age attendance,  825;  the  whole  number  in  Sun- 
day-schools, 3,300,  and  average  attendance, 
1,100. 

A  specimen  of  their  amusing  attempts  at 
English,  is  given  herewith,  as  found  at  the  en- 
trance to  an  alley  or  court  on  Sacramento  Street, 
just  below  Stockton : 


TUCK 
MAKEMSE 

LJUEJN  THE  LANE 


The  meaning  is,  Lee  Tuck  makes  cages,  and 
his  workshop  is  at  No.  or  room  16,  in  the  alley 
or  court,  and  it  can  be  reached  without  climbing 
long  flights  of  rickety  stairs,  and  this  being  his 
dwelling  also,  he  is  at  home  at  all  times. 

Whether  they  are  more  successful  in  making 
poetry,  the  reader  may  determine,  from  the  fol- 
lowing, which  has  been  attributed  to  one  of 
their  scholars,  but  perhaps  erroneously,  viz  : 

"  How  doth  the  little  busy  bee, 
Delight  to  bark  and  bite, 
And  gather  honey  all  the  day, 
And  eat  it  up  at  night." 

It  is  even  doubtful  whether  it  has  been  de- 
rived in  any  way  from  Confucius,  or  any  of 
their  classics. 

Instances  are  told  of  their  honesty  to  an  extent 
that  is  exceedingly  rare  among  American  Chris- 
tians, as  of  one  who  in  purchasing  a  knife  select- 
ed one  at  a  dollar  and  a  half,  instead  of  one  at 
half  a  dollar,  and  received  a  dollar  too  much  in 
change,  and  discovered  the  error  only  after  he 
reached  his  home.  The  next  day  he  walked  back 
three  miles  to  return  the  money  1 


293 


Climate   of    California,    and    Hints   to 
Invalids. 

California  has  been  the  scene  of  many  re- 
markable recoveries  of  health,   and  of  many 
sore  disappointments  to  invalids  who  thought 
that  coming  to  this  coast  would  insure  them  a 
new  lease  of  life.     There  is  no  doubt  that  a 
judicious  availing  of  its  peculiar  climatic  fea- 
tures is  highly  useful  in  many  cases,  and  it  is 
equally  certain  that  an  arbitrary  resort  to  them 
may  hasten  the  end  which  one  seeks  to  avert. 
Cold  winds  from  the  Pacific,  often  loaded  with 
fog,  prevail  eight  or  nine  months  in  the  year,  for 
a  good  part  of  the  day,  and  make  warm  wrap- 
pings necessary  for  well  persons.     When  these 
trade-winds  cease,  the  rainy  season  then  commen- 
ces, variable  and  uncertain,  often  very  damp  and 
chilly,  the  sky  sometimes  clouded  for  days  in 
succession.     In  the  interval  between  rains  and 
summer  winds,  both  spring  and  autumn,  there  is 
a  period  of  variable  duration,  when  the  sky  is 
often  clear,  the  air  balmy,  the  sun  genial,  and 
everything  in  the  outer  world  is  charming  and 
exhilarating ;  but  this  period  is  not  sufficiently 
fixed  to  be  counted  on,  and  is  liable  to  be  inhos- 
pitably broken  upon  by  raw  winds,  and  chilly, 
ioggy  days. 

The  cause  which  thus  unfavorably  affects  the 
climate  of  San  Francisco  in  so  marked  a  degree, 
spread  out  as  it  is  along  the  Golden  Gate,  the 
only  interruption  for  hundreds  of  miles  to  the 
lofty  Coast  Range,  erected  as  a  barrier  between 
the  cold,  foggy  ocean  on  one  hand,  and  the 
spreading  central  basin,  gleaming  bright  and  hot 
with  sunshine  on  the  other,  affects  in  some  de- 
gree many  other  places  along  the  sea-coast.  At  a 
sufficient  distance  inland,  the  ocean  breezes  are 
tempered,  and  there  are  places  near  the  sea-shore 
where  the  trend  of  the  coast  and  outjutting 
headlands  break  the  force  of  the  trade-winds, 
and  give  delightful  shelter  from  them.  It  is  this 
circumstance  which  gives  to  Monterey  and 
Santa  Barbara  their  celebrity.  Santa  Bar- 
bara lies  on  a  bay  facing  to  the  south, 
the  usual  coast-line  facing  south-west,  and  is  in 
the  lee  of  Point  Conception,  a  bold  headland 
which  turns  away  from  it  most  of  the  cold  ocean 
winds.  San  Raiael,  near  San  Francisco,  nestles 
under  the  lee  of  Tamalpais  and  adjacent  hills, 
and  is  also  sheltered.  In  a  direct  line,  it  is  not 
over  six  or  seveo  miles  from  San  Francisco,  and 
yet,  when  it  is  foggy  or  unutterably  windy  in 
the  city,  it  is  often  warm,  clear  and  still  there. 

The  consumptive  patient  should  carefully  avoid 
exposure  to  the  trade-winds  by  seeking  some 
resort  sheltered  from  them,  or  which  they  reach 
after  being  thoroughly  tempered  by  inland  travel. 
Neglect  to  heed  this  caution  is  the  reason  of 
many  fatal  disappointments  experienced  by  Cali- 
fornia visitors  seeking  health. 

In  the  summer  season,  beyond  the  range  of  the 
ocean  trade- winds,  the  choice  between  locations 


for  invalids  in  California  will  be  governed  as 
much  by  other,  as  their  climatic  advantages. 
Ease  of  access,  hotel  and  boarding-house  accom- 
modations, social  advantages,  sources  for  amuse- 
ment, comparative  expense,  are  the  considerations 
that  will  chiefly  weigh  in  deciding  the  question. 
Sunshine  will  be  found  everywhere;  the  days, 
however  hot,  are  always  followed  by  cool  nights ; 
there  are  no  storms,  no  sudden  changes,  the  air 
is  dry  and  clear  and  life-inspiring. 

In  winter  it  maybe  desirable  to  go  well  south, 
where  there  is  little  rain  and  little  cold  weather, 
though  even  at  San  Diego  a  fire  is  very  com- 
fortable sometimes.  Every  place  has  climatic 
features  of  its  own,  knowledge  of  which  is 
gained  only  by  experience  and  is  of  great  value. 
A  few  miles  iu  California  may  make  almost 
incredible  difference  in  climate.  The  east  side 
of  the  Coast  Range  is  warm  and  pleasant — the 
west  side  often  cold,  foggy  and  severe.  As  this 
range  is  sometimes  sixty  miles  in  width,  in  it 
are  many  little  valleys  of  most  delightful  tem- 
perature, and  on  top  of  some  of  its  ridges  is 
the  best  place  for  camping  for  invalids,  because 
the  changes  of  temperature  are  less  there  than 
anywhere  else.  The  basin  of  the  Sacramento 
and  San  Joaquin  Valleys  has  a  climate  of  its 
own.  The  stranger  thinks  it  hot,  but  those  "  at 
home  "  praise  their  own  always.  The  traveler 
is  always  told  that  it  is  other  places  that  ara  hot, 
malarious  and  sickly.  In  Sacramento  it  is  said 
to  be  hot  in  Marysville,  and  in  Marysville  they 
call  Oroville  hot,  and  Stockton  men  say  it  is  hot 
at  Merced,  and  at  Merced  one  finds  the  heat  has 
gone  to  Bakersfield.  The  fact  is,  all  parts  of 
the  Great  Central  Basin  of  California  are  warm 
in  summer  and  subject  occasionally  to  north 
winds,  which  blow  usually  three  days  at  a  time. 
They  are  like  Siroccos,  but  die  away  at  night. 
When  this  wind  sweeps  over  hundreds  of  miles 
of  dry,  scorched  plains,  it  is  like  the  breath  of 
a  furnace,  and  the  mercury  rises  to  110  and  120 
degrees  in  the  shade. 

The  origin  of  the  name  California  is  disputed, 
but  some  say  it  is  from  two  Spanish  words, 
"caliente  fornalo."  This  seems  plausible,  for 
the  words  mean  ' '  heated  furnace. "  The  extreme 
Iryness  of  the  climate  enables  men  and  animals 
to  endure  the  heat  surprisingly.  Sunstrokes 
are  almost  wholly  unknown  in  this  basin,  and 
perhaps  have  never  occurred  in  San  Francisco. 
Horses  travel  fifty  or  sixty  miles  a  day  with  the 
morcury  at  100  degrees  or  more.  In  January, 
1834,  the  mercury  fell  in  San  Francisco  to  twenty- 
five  degrees,  the  coldest  day  known  since  1850. 
The  greatest  extreme  of  heat  since  1850  was  in 
Ssptember,  1852,  ninety-eight  degrees.  The 
mercury  rarely  reaches  ninety,  and  only  during 
a  north  wind,  and  for  a  short  season.  Not  many 
of  the  children  born  in  San  Francisco  have  seen 
snow  fall  there.  The  winters  are  like  the  Indian 
summer  of  Southern  Pennsylvania,  except  a 


mm 


•,•#• 


\  ^ 


1.— Grizzly  Giant,  Maripo«»  Grove.    2.— Three  Graces,  Calaveras  Group.    3.— Scenes  in  Mariposa  Grove. 


295 


clearer  atmosphere.  Sometimes  nearly  all  the 
rain  falls  at  night,  and  the  season  resembles  that 
of  Southern  Alabama  in  winter.  The  cool 
summers  and  warm  winters  are  not  excelled  in 
any  other  country.  The  need  of  blankets  on  a 
summer  night  is  probably  due  to  the  rapid 
radiation  which  the  clear  atmosphere  permits. 
The  season  of  fogs  in  San  Francisco  is  from 
June  to  August,  when  the  trade  winds  are 
strong.  The  consumptive  should  carefully 
avoid  exposure  to  these.  The  dampness  of  the 
summer  fogs  is  not  conducive  to  perspiration, 
but  aggravating  to  rheumatic  and  neuralgic 
affections. 

On  the  Sierras,  from  ten  to  one  hundred  feet 
of  snow  maybe  found.  The  chill  of  this  comes 
down  over  the  interior  basin  in  winter,  especially 
in  the  northern  part  of  the  State.  In  Southern 
California  frost  is  rarely  known.  From  the 
center  of  the  State  south,  roses  bloom  through 
all  the  winter.  Sleighing  can  be  had  only  in 
northern  mountain  towns. 

But  there  is  a  warm  belt  from  Bedding  in  the 
north  to  San  Bernardino  on  the  south,  extend- 
ing along  the  foot-hills,  twenty  miles,  more  or 
less,  wide  and  about  seven  hundred  long,  com- 
paratively free  from  frost,  a  most  delightful 
region  for  invalids.  Along  this  the  heated  air 
of  the  interior  valleys  seems  to  be  stayed  by  the 
colder  air  of  the  mountains. 

Thunder  and  lightning  are  very  rare,  except 
in  the  mountains,  and  hail  is  seldom  seen. 
Rivers  and  creeks  are  usually  empty  during 
summer — evaporating  and  sinking  in  the  sand, 
but  with  the  advent  of  cooler  nights  in  autumn 
they  begin  to  flow  before  the  rains  come.  The 
long,  cloudless  summer  causes  the  grass  to  dry- 
up,  and  green  sod,  so  refreshing  to  the  eye,  is 
replaced  by  brown,  hard-baked  or  deep-dusty 
earth.  With  the  fall  rains,  grass  springs  up 
from  the  seed.  The  earth  rests  in  summer,  and 
is  dressed  with  green  in  winter. 

There  is  a  wet  and  a  dry  season.  The  rains 
begin  early  in  autumn  and  end  late  in  spring, 
but  are  not  as  copious  or  constant  as  strangers 
imagine.  Usually,  they  decrease  as  you  go 
south  to  the  upper  end  of  the  San  Joaquin 
Valley,  and  increase  again  south  and  west  of 
the  San  Fernando  and  San  Bernardino  moun- 
tains. At  Shasta,  nine  feet  has  fallen  in  one 
season,  and  at  Bakersfield  less  than  an  inch  in 
a  corresponding  length  of  time.  For  San  Fran- 
cisco, June,  July,  August  and  September  are 
dry,  only  2.5  inches  of  rain  having  fallen  in 
these  months  collectively  in  seventeen  years.  It 
has  been  estimated  that  there  are  on  an  average 
220  perfectly  clear  days  in  a  year;  eighty-five 
days  more  or  less  cloudy;  and  sixty  rainy.  Ob- 
servations covering  a  period  of  seventeen  years 
show  the  mean  fall  of  rain  in  San  Francisco  to 
be  in  January,  4.51  inches;  February,  3.08; 
March,  2.76;  April,  1.74;  May,  .82;  June,  .05; 


;  July,  .02;  August,  .01;  September,  .09;  October, 
.57;  November,  2.74;  December,  5.37. 

The  average  fall,  in  inches,  for  the  seasons 
and  the  year  at  different  localities  is : 


PLACES. 

Spring. 

Sum'er. 

Aut'mn 

Winter. 

Year. 

San  Francisco  
Sacramento  

664 
7.01 
1351 
0.27 
2.74 

.13 
.00 
1.18 
1.30 
0.55 

3.31 
2.61 
4.87 
0.86 
1.24 

11.33 
12.11 
15.03 
0.72 
5  60 

21.41 
21.73 
34.56 
3.15 
10.43 

Humboldt  Bay.  .  . 
Fort  Yuma    
San  Diego  

The  following  tables  show  the  mean  tempera- 
ture of  January  and  July  in  various  portions  of 
California,  and  other  states  and  countries, 
taken  from  reliable  sources: — 


PLACES. 

JAN. 

JULY. 

DiFFEB- 

EXCB. 

LATI- 
TUDE. 

Ran  Francisco  

Deg. 
49 
f2 
54 
C2 
64 
51 
52 
45 
49 
40 
45 
42 
48 
43 
47 
34 
44 
£6 
30 
31 
55 
46 
47 
71 
52 
60 
37 
33 
41 
40 
43 
46 
52 

Deg. 
57 
58 
71 
75 
73 
72 
•  70 
73 
72 
58 
66 
77 
67 
70 
SO 
71 
82 
92 
74 
77 
82 
76 
77 
78 
65 
70 
62 
70 
73 
73 
75 
77 
75 

Deg. 
8 
6 
17 
i3 
19 
21 
18 
28 
23 
18 
21 
35 
19 
27 
43 
37 
38 
36 
44 
42 
27 
30 
30 
7 
13 
10 
25 
37 
32 
33 
32 
31 
23 

Dg.Min. 
37    48 
36    36 
34    24 
34    04 
34    02 
32    41 
33    15 
38    34 
37    56 
40    44 
38    18 
38    30 
38    05 
33    03 
37    00 
41    40 
40    28 
32    43 
C9    06 
40    37 
29    57 
40    52 
31    47 
21    16 
19    26 
32    38 
51    29 
47    25 
44    50 
43    41 
43    17 
44    24 
36    47 

Monterev  

Santa  Barbara  .... 

Jurupa  

San  Diego  

San  Luis  Key  

Sacramento  

Stockton  

Humboldt  Bay  .... 

Sonoma  

St.  Helena  

Vallejo  

Antioch  

Fort  Reading  

Fort  Yuma  

New  York  

Jerusalem  

Mexico  

Funchal  

Bordeaux  

Marseilles  

Genoa  

Algiers  

PLACES. 

i 

a  4 
II 

a    • 
2  =2  > 

J3i 

o 

•    £ 

£ 

>> 

3 

>-! 

• 

5u~ 

P    ST  s 

<  t»  C 

>   6 

>!<§ 

A.VKBAGE. 

San  Francisco.  ...u 
Vallejo  

W  51  52  55  55  56157 
17  52  53  57  59  67  67 
15  48  51  £9  67  71  73 
17  53  56  62  68  83  90 
U  4&  54  59  65  77  82 
56  58  66  73  76  87  92 
12  49  66  57  66J70  77 
13535562667274 
143741       616671 
:37  43  49  51  61  71 
27'37384449;5263 
tl  3033  47  57:67  73 
5558647075,8182 
J8  40  42  48  55  60  64 
J7  40  42  46  5:1  58  62 
52  54  61  63  66  65  65 
tfi|47  51  56  6t|7076 
30  60  62  63  64  '67  70 
7172727476!77;78 
47153  60  5466;  71  77 
52  55  62  70  77  81  83 
13  44  50  61  69  77  80 

57  53  57  54  51 
G6  64  62  54  47 
73  66  64  52  45 
83  76  67  55  48 
79  71  62  52  44 
90  86  73  64  55 
70  66  59  54  51 
73  72  66  60  43 
68  57  52  44,36 
68  62  51  41 
58  53  53  43  36 
72  66554534 
827870,6255 
63  57  52  45  39 
62  57  50  44  40 
64,64605552 
76  69  61  53  49 
72  7267  64;60 
79  78,76  74  73 
72  72  60  58  47 
82  80  73  65  57 
83  78  66  53  47 

64 
58 
59 
66 
62 
73 

52 

46 
51 
69 
60 
49 
60 
60 
66 
69 
62 
76 
62 

Sacramento  ' 

Fort  Beading  ' 
Fort  Yuma  
St.  Helena  I 
Vacaville  

Meadow  Valley.  .  . 
Fort  Jones  

Grass  Valley  
New  York  

New  Orleans  
Steilacoom  

London  

City  of  Mexico.  .  . 
Naples  

Funchal  

Honolulu  

Jerusalem  

SCENES  IN  THE  TOSEMITE  VALLEY. 
1.— Bridal  Veil  Fall.    2.— Mirror  fj»ke. 


297 


The  following  places  are  known  as  health  re- 
sorts, and  each  has  attractive  and  valuable 
features  of  its  own:  Monterey,  Santa  Barbara, 
San  Rafael,  Stockton,  Visalia,  San  Diego,  Paso 
Bobles,  San  Bernardino,  Ojai  Valley,  Santa 
Monica,  San  Gabriel  Valley,  Riverside,  Colton, 
San  Jose,  Lake  County,  and  many  others  of 
more  or  less  prominence. 

The  writer  has  no  reason  to  doubt  the  con- 
clusions of  another,  who  says,  "A  comparison 
of  the  meteorological  tables  shows  that  the 
coast  from  Monterey  to  Santa  Monica  has  a 
better  climate  for  consumptives  than  the  famous 
Riviera  or  Mediterranean  Coast  near  Nice.  Nice 
is  not  so  good  in  winter  and  very  much  worse 
in  summer.  Neither  Jacksonville  nor  St.  Augus- 
tine compares  with  Monterey  in  any  respect." 
The  salubrity  of  France,  the  bright  skies  of 
Greece  and  Italy,  are  not  equal  to  those  of 
Southern  California.  The  atmosphere  of  the 
whole  coast  is  so  invigorating,  that  all  literary 
men  are  agreed  that  nowhere  else  in  the  world 
can  a  person  perform  the  same  amount  of  brain 
work  in  so  short  a  time. 

As  the  climate  and  seasons  are  so  varied, 
and  the  distance  that  modifies  them  so  short, 
the  invalid  may  travel  from  place  to  place  and 
easily  find  the  one  that  suits  him  best. 

Health  and  Pleasure  Resorts  of   Cali- 
fornia. 

The  editor  has  in  preparation  a  separate  work 
on  this  subject,  and  can  include  in  this  only 
brief  descriptions,  but  will  give  the  great  objects 
of  interests,  and  how  to  reach  them.  First, 
among  these  is 

The  Yosemite  Valley.  This  is  about  a  mile 
wide  and  six  miles  long,  and  lies  in  the  heart  of 
the  Sierras,  about  150  miles  nearly  due  east  of 
San  Francisco.  The  name  is  the  Indian  for 
"grizzly  bear."  Some  of  the  old  guides  spell 
it ' '  Yohemite. "  The  Indian  name  for  the  valley 
was  Ah-wah-nee,  i.  e.,  wide  canon.  The  general 
direction  is  from  East  to  West — at  right  angles 
to  the  axis  of  the  Sierras,  but  the  upper  portion 
of  the  valley  is  from  South  to  North.  There 
are  two  prominent  theories  as  to  its  formation. 
Prof.  Whitney  holds  that  of  subsidence,  but  Mr. 
John  Muir  and  others  established  thatof  j?/-2<r*a/ 
action,  according  to  the  mind  of  most  scholars. 
The  bottom  of  the  valley  is  4,060  feet  above 
sea-level,  and  the  rim  from  3,000  to  5,000  feet 
higher. 

The  Merced  river  flows  through,  and  its  waters 
pouring  over  the  rim  produce  the  many  mag- 
nificent falls,  and  leaving  the  valley  make  wild 
and  tremendous  cascades.  Entering  at  the  east, 
as  all  roads  do,  there  are  the  cascades  close  to 
the  Coulterville  road,  and  beneath  the  Madera 
road.  On  the  Madera  road,  while  descending 
th<*  Tim,  one  reaches  Inspiration  Point,  com- 
rwmd>.ng  the  best  general  view  of  the  valley, 


impressing  the  beholder  with  wonder  and  awe, 
and  fixing  forever  the  relative  position  of  the 
prominent  points.  Next  farther  up  the  vallev, 
on  the  south  wall  is  "  Bridal  Veil"  Fall.  The 
first  leap  of  the  water  is  630  feet,  then  a  second 
of  300.  The  poetical  name  is  well  chosen;  the 
Indian  name  is  Po-ho-no,  a  current  of  wind. 
Opposite,  a  part  of  the  north  wall  is  called  El 
Capitan,  the  captain;  in  Indian  Tu-toch-ah-nu- 
lah,  almost  vertical  and  3,300  feet  above  the 
valley — a  majestic  rock,  to  some  the  most  im- 
pressive object  in  the  valley. 

Farther  up,  and  on  the  south  wall  are  the 
Cathedral  Rocks,  2,500  feet  high,  with  the  Cathe- 
dral Spires,  towering  gracefully  500  feet  higher. 
On  the  north  side  are  the  "  Three  Brothers," 
called  by  the  Indians,  Pom-pom-pa-sav,  i.  t., 
jumping  frogs,  and  £agle  Point.  On  the  south 
side,  next  above,  is  Sentinel  Rock,  1,000  feet 
above  the  rest  of  the  rim,  and  one  of  the  most 
striking  features  of  the  valley.  The  Indian  name 
is  Lnya,  called  from  a  plant  found  near  it,  used 
for  food. 

Sentinel  Dome,  4,150  feet  high,  is  back  of 
Sentinel  Rock  and  back  of  Glacier  Point.  It  is 
a  beautiful  dorile,  from  which  the  high  Sierras 
are  well  seen.  The  Indian  name  was  Ho-ko-o- 
way,  i.  e.,  lizard,  from  a  dark  spot  in  the  rock 
like  the  ugly  animal.  As  one  turns  and  faces 
the  south,  Yosemite  Falls,  1,500  feet,  then  600, 
then  400,  in  round  numbers,  the  precise  total 
being  2,634  feet.  As  one  turns  toward  the 
south,  the  massive  North  Dome  with  its  royal 
arches  are  on  the  left.  The  Indian  name  was 
Sho-ho-nee,  or  To-coy-ah,  named  from  the  cover- 
ing which  shades  the  face  of  the  papoose  in  the 
basket.  Across  the  valley  is  Union  Point,  and 
above  it,  but  further  south,  is  Glacier  Point, 
commanding  the  best  view  of  Yosemite,  Vernal 
and  Nevada  Falls. 

Passing  up,  the  opening  on  the  left  is  Tenaya 
Canon,  in  which  is  Mirror  Lake.  On  the  left  of 
the  main  valley,  and  on  the  right  of  Tenaya 
Canon,  as  you  go  up,  the  Half  Dome  or  South 
Dome,  5,100  feet  above  the  valley,  is  easily 
recognized.  Its  summit  commands  the  best 
view  of  the  valley,  and  Prof.  Whitney  thought 
human  foot  would  never  tread  it.  The  daring 
of  George  Anderson,  who  drilled  holes  for  iron 
spikes  and  scaled  the  top,  will  receive  the  bene- 
diction of  many  a  tourist;  and  away  up  the 
canon  on  the  south  side  of  it,  is  Cloud's  Rest, 
6,450  feet,  the  highest  point  near  the  valley. 

On  up  the  valley,  on  the  left,  is  the  Cap  of 
Liberty,  easily  recognized  by  its  outline.  Be- 
tween Glacier  Point  and  Vernal  Fall,  south  and 
west  of  the  Merced  River,  is  the  Valley  of  the 
Illilouettf,  or  Tu-tu-lu-we-ack.  Vernal  Falls, 
350  feet  high,  and  Nevada  Falls,  700  feet,  have 
the  largest  volume  of  water,  and  are  among  the 
grandest  of  their  kind.  Nevada,  the  Indians 
called  YO-W'-T,  twisting. 


298 


VEKNAL  FALLS,  YOSEMITE. 

BY  THOMAS  MORAX. 


299 


The  Big  Trees. 

There  is  occasionally  a  man  who  insists  on 
calling  them  Wellingtonia,  but  all  botanists  and 
men  of  nearly  every  nation  give  them  their  Amer- 
ican name,  sequoia  giganteus.  The  ordinary 
red-wood  of  California  is  of  the  same  genus, 
and  called  sequoia  sempervirens,  and  attains  a 
diameter  of  sixteen  feet. 

The  ordinary  red-wood  is  not  found  in  the 
Sierras,  and  the  Big  Trees  proper  are  all  in  the 
Sierras.  The  largest  tree  yet  known  is  on 
King's  Eiver,  40  miles  from  Visalia,  and  forty- 
four  feet  in  diameter.  This  King's  Eiver  grove, 
and  the  two  groves  on  the  north  and  south  forks 
of  the  Tule  River,  are  not  easily  accessible. 
The  groves  accessible  to  tourists  are  the  north 
and  south  Calaveras,  Tuolumne,  Merced,  north 
and  south  Mariposa  and  the  north  and  south 
Fresno. 

Of  these  the  Calaveras  or  Mariposa  is  usually 
visited,  and  sometimes  both.  The  Tuolumne 
is  on  the  direct  Big  Oak  Flat  route  to  the  Yose- 
mite  Valley,  and  the  stage  drives  through  one 
of  the  standing  trees,  but  the  number  of  large 
trees  is  only  ten,  and  the  largest  only  twenty- 
four  feet  in  diameter.  The  Merced  group  is  on 
the  Coulterville  route  to  the  Yosemite,  but  the 
number  of  trees  about  fifty,  and  the  size  com- 
paratively small. 

The  Fresno  Grove  is  in  two  groups,  a  mile 
apart,  with  about  1,200  trees,  and  these  are  not 
excelled  in  size,height  and  symmetry.  This  grove 
is  ten  miles  distant  from  the  Madera  stage  road 
at  Fresno  Flats.  It  is  not  preserved  with  care, 
and  tourists  after  seeing  either  the  Mariposa  or 
Calaveras  trees  do  not  usually  care  to  visit  any 
others.  But  the  largest  tree  the  writer  found 
is  in  the  south  group  of  the  Fresno  Grove,  it 
being  96. 5  feet  in  circumference  at  the  ground. 
It  is  round,  symmetrical,  free  from  blemish,  and 
the  noblest  specimen  to  be  seen  while  visiting 
the  Valley.  Prof.  Whftney  says  the  average 
diameter  of  the  trees  in  the  Mariposa  Grove  ex- 
ceeds that  of  trees  in  the  Calaveras  Grove,  and 
the  tallest  tree  of  these  groves  is  in  the  latter. 
In  the  north  Fresno  group,  the  largest  tree  is 
near  the  cabin  of  John  A.  Nelder,  the  present 
owner  of  the  group.  It  is  eighty -seven  feet  in 
circumference  at  the  ground,  and  seventy -two 
and  a  half  feet  at  six  feet  from  the  ground. 

The  reported  size  of  the  trees  is  apt  to  vary 
in  all  the  groves,  with  every  string  that  passes 
around  the  trees.  One  includes  and  another 
leaves  out  certain  enlargments  or  irregularities 
near  the  ground.  The  writer  has  measured  all 
the  large  trees  in  the  Calaveras  (north  and  south), 
the  Mariposa  and  the  Fresno  groves,  and  has 
followed  the  same  method  and  principles  in  all 
cases. 

The  Calaveras  Groves  are  also  private  prop- 
erty, six  miles  apart,  connected  by  a  trail 


through  a  wild  and  rugged  region,  abounding 
in  picturesque  and  magnificent  views.  Com- 
paratively few  tourists  go  farther  than  the  north 
Grove,  in  which  is  the  Big  Tree  Hctel,  one  of  the 
most  charming  mountain  resorts  in  all  the  world. 
The  keeping  of  the  hotel  is  as  large  as  the  trees. 
The  grove  is  as  neat  as  a  garden,  and  to  one  who 
spends  his  vacation  at  the  excellent  hotel,  the 
trees  will  grow  larger  on  every  return  from  the 
trout  streams,  the  retreats  of  game  or  quiet 
rambles.  The  Calaveras  Grove  was  the  first 
discovered,  the  first  opened  to  tourists  and  has 
been  long  and  well  known.  In  both  this  and 
the  Mariposa  groves  are  prostrate  trunks,  one- 
sixth  larger  than  the  largest  living  trees.  In 
the  Calaveras  is  the  stump  of  the  monster  that 
was  felled  with  pump  augers,  and  on  which 
four  cotillion  sets  have  danced  at  the  same  time. 

To  visit  the  south  Calaveras  grove  requires  a 
day,  and  a  ride  on  horseback  from  the  hotel. 
The  south  grove  is  four  miles  long  and  one 
wide.  In  both  Calaveras  groves  the  trees  are 
beautiful,  surpassing  in  symmetry  and  perfec- 
tion those  of  the  Mariposa)  but  not  those  of  the 
Fresno  Grove. 

The  most  notable  trees  in  the  Calaveras  group 
are: 

The  Father  of  the  forest,  which  measures  435  feet  in 
length,  110  feet  in  circumference. 

Mother  of  the  Forest,— 321  feet  high,  90  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence. 

Hercules 320  feet  high,  95  feet  circumference 

Hermit, 318  feet  high,  60  feet  circumference 

Pride  of  the  Forest,  .  276  feet  high,  60  feet  circumference 
Three  Graces,  .  .  .  295  feet  high,  92  feet  circumference 
Husband  and  Wife,  .  252  feet  high,  60  feet  circumference 
Burnt  Tree,  ....  330  feet  long,  97  feet  circumference 
"  Old  Maid,"  "  Old  Bachelor,"  "  Siamese  Twins,"  "  Mother 
and  Sons,"  "  Two  Guardians." 

In  the  In  the 

Calaveras  Grore.    Maripoca  GTOT« 

Number  of  trees  93  600 

Diameter  of  largest,  33  feet.  33  feet. 

Circumference  of  largest  living  tree, 

six  feet  above  the  ground.  61  feet.  90  feet. 

No.  of  living  trees  between  80  and 

90  feet  in  circumference.  0 

No.  between  70  and  80  feet.  0 

No.  between  60  and  70  feet,  1 

To  reach  the  hotel  at  the  Calaveras  Big  Trees 
requires  a  detour  of  fifty-nine  miles,  from  the 
Big  Oak  Flat  route  to  the  Yosemite. 

The  Mattposa  Grwe  is  of  national  importance. 
It  is  the  only  one  that  has  been  set  aside  as  a 
park  for  the  nation.  It  was  ceded  by  Congress 
to  the  State  of  California,  and  is  cared  for  by 
the  Commissioners  of  the  State.  Its  trees  are 
in  two  groups,  and  these  are  half  a  mile  apart. 
A  wagon-road  passes  through  both  of  these 
groups. 

The  most  notable  tree  in  the  Mariposa  Groves 
is  the  Grizzly  Giant,  260  feet  high,  and  100  feet 
in  circumference.  At  a  height  of  100  feet  there 
is  a  limb,  more  than  six  feet  in  diameter.  The 
tops  of  the  Big  Trees  towering  above  their 
smaller  neighbors  have  been  broken  by  the  wind 
and  snow,  but  this  one  has  suffered  beyond  the 
rest.  Others  of  less  diameter  are  higher.  I.v 


300 


is  gnarled  at  the  base  as  if  its  struggles  had 
taken  root. 

Other  interesting  trees  are  "The  Sentinels," 
"The  (eight)  Commissioners,"  "  The  Diamond 
Group  "  of  four,  "  General  Grant "  and  "  Illin- 
ois." "Andy  Johnson"  succumbed  to  the 


winter  of  1880-1.     Many  of  the  trees  have  been 
named  and  re-named. 

The  hotel  at  the  Big  Tree  Station  is  five 
miles  from  the  grove,  with  trout-fishing  at  the 
very  door,  large  game  in  the  mountains  and 
every  attraction  to  the  lover  of  the 


How  to  Beach  the  Yosemite  Valley  and  Big  Tree  Groves. 


There  are  four  all-wagon  roads.  One  leaves 
the  railroad  at  Milton,  two  at  Merced,  and  one 
at  Madera.  The  first  element  to  be  taken  into 
consideration  is 

1.  Distance. — This  is  as  follows  : 

BIG  OAK  FLAT  AND  CALAVEKAS  ROUTE — Stage*. 

San  Francisco  to  Milton,  by  rail 133  miles. 

Milton  to  Murphy's,  by  stage 30 

Murphy's  to  North  Calaveras  Grove,  and 

return  to  Murphy's 30 

Murphy's  to  Chinese  Tamp  via  Sonoma..  27 

Chinese  Camp  to  Black's  Hotel 60     ' 

Total  staging 147 

Milton  to  Black's  via  Chinese  Camp  di- 
rect       88  miles. 

COULTERVILLE    ROUTE. 

San  Francisco  to  Merced,  by  rail 151  miles. 

Merced  to  Dudley's,  by  stage 46     ' 

Dudley's  to  Merced 42     ' 

Total  staging 88     " 

MARIPOSA  ROUTE. 

Merced  to  Mariposa  via  Indian  Gulch. ...     47  miles. 

Mariposa  to  Clark's 27 

Big  Tree  Station  to  Black'a 23|  " 

Total  staging 92     " 

MADERA  ROUTE. 

San  Francisco  to  Madera,  by  rail 173.5  miles. 

Madera  to  Fresno  Flat,  by  stage 35        " 

Fresno  Flat  to  Clark's 20        " 

Big  Tree  Station  to  Black  s  23|     " 

Total  staging 79        " 

2.  Elevations,     Grades,  and  Hood-Beds.— The 
bottom  of  the  Yosemite  Valley  is  4000  feet  above 
sea-level,  and  the  roads  enter  it  by  descending 
the  wall  on  either  side.      Therefore,   the  road 
which  rises  least  above  the  bottom  of  the  valley  is 
most  desirable,  other  things  being  equal. 

The  greatest   elevation  of  the  Big  Oak 
Flat  route  is  the  summit  near  Tania- 

7040  feet. 


Coultervilte  route,  near  Hazel  Green 6085  ft. 

Mariposa  route,  on  Chowchilla  Mountains  5750  " 
Madera  route,  on  Chowchilla  Mountains.  4750  " 
Madera  route,  summit  between  Big  Tree 
Station  and  the  Valley 6250  " 

The  low  elevation  of  the  Madera  route,  in 
connection  with  a  southern  exposure  nearly 
all  the  way  to  the  Valley,  makes  it  freer 
from  snow  in  both  spring  and  fall,  and 
less  tiresome  to  the  tourist.  It  may  be  pos- 
sible to  keep  this  route  open  nearly  all  the 
winter. 

The  grades  vary  on  the  different  roads,  the 
steepest  being  on  the  Big  Oak  Flat  route,  equal- 
ing 20  feet  to  the  100  feet,  and  the  steep  grades 
being  unbroken  for  miles  at  a  tune. 

On  the  Coulterville  route,  the  steepest  grade  is 
near  Coulterville,  4  miles  in  length,  rising  in  places 
18  feet  to  the  100  feet.  Another  grade  of  five 
miles  in  length  rises  on  an  average  10  feet  to  the 
100  feet.  On  this  route  there  are  30  miles  of  up 
grade  between  Coulterville  and  the  Valley,  and 
20  miles  of  down  grade. 

On  the  Mariposa  route  there  are  numerous  hills 
to  be  ascended  and  descended,  as  on  the  preced- 
ing routes.  The  steepest  grade  is  across  the 
Chowchilla  Mountains,  where  the  rise  is  17.5  feet 
to  the  100  feet. 

Between  Clark's  and  the  Valley,  the  Mariposa 
and  the  Madera  routes  are  the  same,  and  the 
maximum  grade  is  10.5  feet  to  the  100  feet.  On 
the  Madera  route  the  maximum  grade  between 
Madera  and  Clark's  is  4  feet  to  the  100  feet. 
These  grades,  taken  in  connection  with  the  great- 
est elevation,  are  an  important  element  in  refer- 
ence to  time,  for  on  steep  grades  the  time  must 
be  slow. 

The  road-bed  will  be  thought  bad  enough 
whichever  route  one  takes,  if  he  is  not  accustomed 
to  mountain  roads  ;  but  they  are  all  good,  con- 
sidering the  country  through  which  they  pass. 
In  general,  the  greater  the  elevations  the  more 
rocky  and  rough  the  road-bed. 

3.  Coaches  and  Teams.— On  these,  and  in  some 
coaches  on  a  particular  seat,  may  depend  much 
of  the  comfort  of  the  passenger.  It  is  well, 
therefore,  to  see  a  photograph  of  the  coach,  and 
know  beforehand  whether  it  is  to  be  a  "  mud- 
wagon,"  or  a  "Concord  coach,"  or  an  open 
"  Kimball  wagon."  As  there  is  no  danger  of 


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rain,  the  open  Kimball  wagons  are  to  be  greatly 
preferred.  They  are  the  most  comfortable 
coaches  ever  made,  and  obstruct  no  fine  view  for 
any  passenger.  In  these  every  passenger  has  a 
box-seat. 

The  teams,  so  far  as  the  writer  has  observed, 
are  all  good  ;  it  does  not  pay  to  have  any  others, 
and  they  who  understand  their  business  look  well 
to  this  point. 

4.  Hotels. — These  are  all  good.     Some  are  ex- 
cellent— as  good  as  any  in  the  State.     Among 
these  are  the  El  Capitan  at  Merced,  Dudley's, 
Clark's,  Murphy's,  and  the  Calaveras  Big  Trees. 

The  Madera  route  has  an  unrivaled  advantage 
in  this,  that  a  tourist  can  take  a  palace  sleeping-car 
at  4  P.M.  in  San  Francisco,  and  be  undisturbed 
during  the  night,  the  car  being  placed  on  a  side 
track  on  arrival  at  Madera,  to  remain  until  morn- 
ing. Or,  returning  from  the  Valley,  one  may 
take  the  palace  sleeping-car  on  arrival  at  Madera, 
and  find  himself  undisturbed  until  he  nears 
Lathrop  for  breakfast  the  next  morning. 

5.  Scenery  en  route. — On  every  route  it  is  beauti- 
ful.    There  is  a  general  sameness  in  looking  over 
the  hills  and  taking  in  the  great  San  Joaquin 
Valley,  but  there  can  be  no  two  views  precisely 
alike. 

On  the  Big  Oak  Flat  route,  the  crossing  of  the 
Tuolumne,  after  ascending  and  descending  a 
steep  mountain,  is  quite  picturesque.  On  the 
Coulterville  route  there  are  many  fine  views  of 
the  mountains^  and  there  is  also  Bower  Cave,  an 
immense  opening  in  limestone  rock,  into  which 
one  can  descend  by  ladder  and  then  pass  into 
another  and  larger  opening  about  a  hundred  feet 
square,  in  one  corner  of  which  is  a  small  and 
beautiful  lake.  It  is  unique  and  interesting,  but 
seems  not  to  win  permanent  and  general  interest 
in  the  midst  of  greater  wonders.  The  Coulter- 
ville route  descends  to  the  canon  of  the  Merced 
before  reaching  the  Valley  proper,  and  passes  up 
along  the  rapids,  where  the  river  roars  and  rushes 
out  toward  the  plain.  This  is  especially  in- 
teresting, grand,  and  mighty  in  the  early  spring, 

The  Mariposa  and  Madera  routes  unite  at 
Clark's.  From  Merced  and  Madera  to  Clark's 
the  scenery  is  good  on  either  route.  Concerning 
the  route  from  Merced  via,  Mariposa,  Prof. 
Whitney  says,  "  The  road  from  Bear  Valley  to 
Mariposa  passes  through  a  region  which  gives 
as  good  an  idea  as  any  in  the  State  of  equal  ex- 
tent can  of  the  peculiar  foot-hill  scenery  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada."  Substantially  this  another 
might  say  of  any  other  of  the  roads  into  the 
Valley.  The  road  from  Clark's  to  the  Valley 
passes  down  the  South  Fork  of  the  Merced,  and 
at  the  same  time  ascends  to  the  plateau  between 
this  fork  and  the  main  Merced,  where  the  scene 
is  continually  changing,  but  every  thing  is  wildly 
sublime.  Before  losing  sight  of  the  canon  of 
he  Merced,  where  the  river  flows  through  it 


toward  the  San  Joaquin,  the  view  extends  to  the 
coast  mountains,  and  on  going  up  and  into  the  Yo- 
semite,  the  rapids,  where  the  Merced  River  leaves 
the  Yosemite  Valley  and  rushes  through  the 
canon,  are  seen  far  below.  But  the  glory  of  this 
route  is  the  scenery,  viewed  from  Inspiration 
Point.  It  is  the  best  general  view  of  the  Valley. 
From  this  point  the  Valley  was  first  seen  by  those 
in  pursuit  of  the  Indians  in  1851,  and  here  the 
most  profound  emotions  have  arisen  and  the  most 
pregnant  words  ever  uttered  concerning  it  were 
conceived,  and  from  this  point  Hill,  Bierstadt, 
and  others  have  painted  it.  If  this  view  is  not 
had  by  taking  the  route  to  or  from  Clark's,  it 
should  be  had  at  the  expense  of  a  day,  for  it  is. 
not  possible  to  have  any  thing  comparable  to  it 
on  any  road  entering  on  the  north  side,  as  the 
Big  Oak  Flat  and  Coulterville  enter.  The 
latter  is  near  the  bed  of  the  river,  and  too  low 
down  for  the  grand  scenic  effect  of  Inspiration 
Point,  and  both  it  and  the  Big  Oak  Flat  route 
enter  below  where  there  is  a  trend  in  the  wall, 
and  El  Capitan  projects  its  massive  form  and 
shuts  out  the  major  part  of  the  Valley  beyond. 
Entering  on  the  south  wall  from  Clark's,  the 
tourist  is  directed  across  the  lower  end  of  the 
Valley,  and  takes  in  more  of  it  than  any  other 
point  can  give.  Whoever  enters  the  Valley  will 
see  Inspiration  Point,  and  many  who  desire  to 
enter  by  one  road  and  return  by  another  will 
retrace  their  steps  to  Clark's,  preferring  to  get  the 
most  of  the  Valley  while  they  are  en  route  to  and 
from  it 

6.  Time  required  in  Traveling. — The  route 
to  the  Valley  via  Milton  is  called  the  Big  Oak 
Flat,  or  Hutching's  Route,  the  former  name 
from  a  local  point  on  the  road,  and  the  latter 
after  the  present  State  guardian  of  the  Valley, 
who  in  past  year^  did  more  than  any  other  man 
to  make  its  attractions  known,  and  by  whose 
untiring  energy  the  stage  road  to  it  was  first 
opened.  It  is  one  of  four  routes  by  which 
the  valley  is  reached  without  horseback 
riding.  It  is  the  shortest  route  from  Stock- 
ton or  San  Francisco,  but  it  requires  more 
staging. 

By  this  route  the  tourist  leaving  San  Fran- 
cisco at  4  P.  M.  must  remain  over-night  at 
Stockton,  where  he  will  find  the  "Yosemite" 
and  other  good  hotels.  Leaving  Stockton  the 
next  morning  at  7:30,  by  the  Stockton  and  Cap- 
peropolis  Railroad  for  Milton,  he  will  take 
Mattison  and  Garland's  stages  and  reach  Priest's 
the  same  evening,  and  Black's  the  next  evening 
at  6  P.  M. 

To  visit  the  Calaveras  Big  Trees  en  route  to 
the  Valley  will  require  a  stage  ride  of  145 
miles  and  two  more  days.  Leaving  Stockton 
in  the  morning  he  will  arrive  at  Murphy's  to 
spend  the  night,  and  the  next  day  can  reach 
the  grove  and  return  to  Murphy's,  and  the 


302 


third  evening  reach  Priest's  or  Garrote,  and 
the  following  day  reach  the  valley. 

By  the  Coulterville  route,  leaving  San  Fran- 
cisco at  4  P.  M.,  and  reaching  Merced  at  10:50 
p.  M.,  the  night  -is  spent  at  the  El  Capitan 
Hotel,  and  with  an  early  start  Dudley's  Ranch 
is  reached  for  the  night,  and  Black's  the  next 
evening  at  6  o'clock. 

By  the  Mariposa  route,  an  early  start  from 
Merced,  or  by  the  Madera  route,  an  early  start 


from  the  Palace  Car  and  Madison  Hotel  will 
enable  one  to  reach  Big  Tree  station  for  the 
night,  and  Black's  at  noon  of  the  next  day.  Or, 
after  spending  the  night  at  Big  Tree  station, 
one  may  visit  the  Mariposa  Groves  and  reach 
Black's  the  same  evening. 

The  Madera  route  is  preferable,  because  of 
the  sleeping-car  time  and  visit  to  the  Mariposa 
Grove  of  Big  Trees. 


Expenses  to  the  Yosemite  Valley— The  Big  Trees* 


The  tourist  will  be  able  to  vary  these  in  many 
ways,  and  no  statement  can  be  more  than  an 
approximation,  unless  it  be  to  give  maximum 
rates.  These  are  as  follows  :  From  the  railroad 
to  the  valley  and  return,  $45.00,  by  any  route. 
The  additional  stage  fare  to  include  the  Calav- 
eras  Big  Trees  is  $7.00,  but  the  extra  railroad 
fare,  after  leaving  the  main  line  to  San  Francisco 
is  only  $4.00. 

To  visit  the  Mariposa  Grove  there  is  no  extra 
charge,  but  the  railroad  fare  will  be  $5.75,  $8.10, 
or  $9.00  additional,  according  as  Merced,  or 
Madera  is  made  the  point  of  departure.  By 
taking  a  round-trip  ticket  from  Lathrop  to 
Merced,  and  returning  via  Madera,  the  addi- 
tional cost  will  be  $8  10.  Round-trip  ticket, 
Lathrop  to  Merced,  $5.75.  Round-trip  ticket, 
Lathrop  to  Madera,  $9.00. 

Board  and  lodging  in  the  valley  are  $3.00  per 
day. 

The  time  to  the  valley  from  San  Francisco, 
via  the  Big  Oak  Flat  Route,  is  two  days ;  and 
via  the  Calavaras  Grove  of  Big  Trees,  four  days  : 
and  via  Coulterville,  two  days  ;  and  via  Mariposa 
or  Madera,  one  and  a  half  days. 

Saddle  Horses  in  the  Valley. 

The  Board  of  Commissioners  in  charge  of 
the  valley  and  the  Mariposa  Big  Tree  Grove, 
have  established  maximum  rates  as  follows  : 

1.  From  any  hotel  in  the  Valley  to  Glacier  Point 

and     Sentinel    Dome    and     return   by    same 
route, $3.00 

2.  From  Valley  to  Glacier  Point,  Sentinel  Dome, 

Nevada  Fall  and  Snow's  (passing  the  night  at 
Snow's), $3.00 

3.  From  Valley  direct  to  Snow's  and  Nevada  Fall, 

passing  by  Vernal  Fall  and  returning  to  Valley 
same  day, $3.00 

4.  From  Snow's  to  Cloud's  Rest  and  back  to  Snow's, 

or  to  Valley  the  same  day, $3.00 

5.  From  Valley  direct  to  Cloud's  Rest,  and  back  to 

Snow's, $3.00 

€.    From  Valley  direct  to  Cloud's  Rest  and  back  to 

Valley  same  day, $5.00 

7.    From  Snow's  to  Valley, $  2.00 

S.    From   Valley  to   Upper  Yosemite    Fall,  Eagle 

Point  and  return, $3.00 

9.    For  use  of  saddle  horses  on  the  level  of  the  Val- 
ley per  day, $2.50 


Carriages. 

(For  a  party  of  not  less  than  four  persons./ 

1.  To  Bridal  Veil  Fall  and  return,  each  person,  $1.00 

2.  To  Mirror  Lake  and  return,  each  person, ..   $1.00 

3.  To  the  Cascades,  passing  by  and  stopping  at  the 

Bridal  Veil  Fall,  each  person, $3.00 

4.  To  the  Cascades  and  return,  each  person, . .  $2.00 

5.  To   Bridal   Veil   and   Artist's    Point,  each   per- 

son   $2.00 

The  charge  for  guide  (including  horse)  when 
furnished,  will  be  $3.00  per  day.  The  above 
charges  do  not  cover  feed  for  the  horses  at 
Snow's,  nor  tolls  on  the  various  trails.  These 
latter  are  as  follows  : 

To  Glacier  Point,  each  person, $1.00 

To  foot  of  Upper  Yosemite  Fall, $0.50 

From    foot    of    Upper    Yosemite    Fall    to    Eagle 

Point, $0.50 

To  Nevada  Fall  (including  Vernal  Fall), $0.75 

To  Mirror  "Lake  in  a  carriage,  $0.50 

All  trails  in  the  valley  were  purchased  by  the 
State  Commissioners  in  1882  and  are  now  free. 

Points  in  the    Valley  Most  Attractive 
to  Tourists. 

1.  South  Dome,  I  each  of  these  includes  Vernal  and 

2.  Clouds  Rest,   [  Nevada  Falls. 

3.  Inspiration  Point. 

4.  Glacier  Point. 

5.  Sentinel  Dome. 

6.  Upper  Yosemite  Fall  and  Eagle  Point. 

7.  Mirror  Lake. 

8.  Bridal  Veil  Fall. 

9.  Lower  Yosemite  Fall. 
10.  El  Capitan. 

Reference  is  had  in  the  above  order,  to  the 
fact  that  El  Capitan  and  Bridal  Veil  Fall  are  at 
the  entrance  to  the  Valley  and  must  be  passed 
both  in  going  in  and  coming  out.  The  South 
Dome  is  difficult  of  access,  the  only  way  being 
to  climb  the  rounded  .side  of  the  Dome  by  hold- 
ing to  975  feet  of  rope  anchored  at  various 
points. 

Time    Usually  Required  for  the  Vari- 
ous Excursions. 

From  the  hotels  to  Upper  Yosemite  Falls  and 

return 4  hours. 

From  the  hotels  to  Upper  Yosemite  Falls  and 

Eagle  Point  and  return, 6  hours. 


303 


To  Bridal  Veil  Falls, 3  hours. 

To  Bridal  Veil  Falls  and  El  Capitan, 4  hours. 

To  El  Capitan, 3  hours. 

To  Mirror  Lake, 3  hours. 

To  Vernal  and  Nevada  Falls, 1  day. 

To  Mirror  Lake,  and  Vernal  and  Nevada  Falls, .  1  day. 

To  Lower  Yosemite  Falls 2£  hours. 

To  Mirror  Lake  and  Lower  Yosemite  Falls,.  .£  a  day. 

To  Glacier  Point, 6  hours. 

To  Sentinel  Dome, 7  hours. 

To  Glacier  Point  and  Sentinel  Dome, 8  hours. 

To  Cloud's  Rest  from  Snow's  Hotel  to  Nevada 

Falls, , 8  hours. 

To  South  Dome  from  Snow's, 4  hours. 

From  Snow's  to  Cloud's  Rest  and  South  Dome 

and  back  to  Snow's, 1  day. 

From  Snows  to  Cloud's  Rest,  or  to  South 

Dome  and  back  to  the  Valley — possible  in.  .1  day. 
From  Valley  to  Inspiration  Point  and  back 

to  Hotel, 1  day. 

Head-waters  of  the  Sacramento 
and  Mount  Shasta. 

From  Redding  to  the  Black  Butte,  more  than 
80  miles,  the  stage-route  follows  the  general 
course  of  the  river,  leaving  it  occasionally  and 
crossing  it  five  times.  At  Redding  the  broad, 
fertile  Sacramento  Valley  ends,  and  the  foot- 
hills, with  numerous  little  valleys  between  them, 
begin.  The  stage  ride  from  Redding  north  is 
through  these,  and  then  across  the  mountains 
that  confine  the  waters  of  the  Pitt  and  McCloud 
rivers.  These  are  the  main  tributaries  of  the 
Upper  Sacramento.  The  Pitt  is  fed  by  the  eter- 
nal snows  of  Lassen's  Peak,  the  central  and  lofti- 
est figure  in  a  line  of  ancient  volcanoes,  and  the 
northern  extremity  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  range. 
The  McCloud  is  a  rapid  stream,  rushing  along 
at  from  ten  to  twenty  miles  an  hour,  with  high 
canon  walls  on  either  side,  and  water  cold  as  ice 
and  clear  as  crystal.  It  bursts  from  the  ground 
in  a  great  volume,  and  is  probably  the  outlet  of 
Mud  Creek,  which  rises  from  a  glacier  on  the  east 
side  of  Mt.  Shasta  and  then  sinks  in  the  earth. 

Near  the  crossing  of  the  McCloud  is  the  United 
States  fish-hatching  establishment.  All  these 
rivers  abound  in  trout  and  salmon,  but  the  best 
place  on  them  for  trout-fishing  is  the  upper 
waters  of  the  McCloud.  The  valley  of  the  Sac- 
ramento grows  narrower  as  one  goes  northward, 
and  at  last  is  almost  a  canon.  Just  beyond  Camp- 
bell's Soda  Springs,  69  miles  north  of  Redding, 
the  road  ascends  from  the  river  to  an  extensive 
mountain  basin,  walled  in  by  yet  loftier  moun- 
tains— a  sort  of  semicircular  wall  from  Scott's 
Mountain  on  the  north  to  Trinity  on  the  west  and 
Castle  Rock  on  the  south-east.  On  the  east  side 
of  the  road,  and  in  this  great  basin,  Mt.  Shasta 
rears  its  lofty  head  into  the  dark,  deep  blue  of 
heaven. 

This  delightful  region  is  of  easy  access ;  and 


while  the  Yosemite  Valley  is  reckoned  the  most 
wonderful  attraction  of  nature  in  California,  it 
is  surpassed  in  many  respects  by  Mt.  Shasta. 
Shasta  has  an  elevation  of  14,444  feet,  according 
to  Professor  Whitney,  and  that  of  Mt.  Blanc  is 
but  15,739  feet.  Mt."  Whitney  is  the  only  moun- 
tain in  the  United  States  known  to  be  higher — 
and  that  by  only  500  feet.  But  Mt.  Whitney  is 
flanked  by  numerous  other  mountains  nearly  as 
high,  while  Shasta  rises  about  11,000  feet  above 
the  surrounding  country  on  every  side. 

Mt.  Whitney  and  Mt.  Lyell  have  glaciers  of 
feeble  vitality,  but  Shasta  has  three,  each  living 
and  accessible.  It  is  the  only  mountain  in  Amer- 
ica where  glacial  phenomena  may  be  carefully 
studied  with  trifling  exertion. 

Mt.  Shasta  has  two  peaks,  one  called  the  Cra- 
ter Peak,  although  both  were  active  volcanoes  at 
a  former  day.  The  Crater  Peak,  Professor  Whit- 
ney said  in  1865,  was  "  believed  by  many  to  be 
quite  inaccessible.  Its  sides  appear  to  be  covered 
with  loose  volcanic  materials,  probably  ashes, 
lying  at  the  highest  angle  possible  without  slid- 
ing down."  Now  it  is  frequently  climbed,  its 
sides  being  covered  with  blocks  of  trachyte  of 
all  sizes,  which  have  broken  from  the  crater 
walls  above.  They  slip  down  and  retard  the 
climbing,  but  the  footing  is  secure  In  the  steepest 
places.  Only  a  few  feet  below  the  summit  on 
the  main  peak,  and  above  glaciers  and  ice-fields, 
there  are  springs  of  boiling  water  and  juts  of 
i  constantly  escaping  steam,  all  strongly  impreg- 
nated with  sulphur.  It  was  these  that  kept 
John  Muir  and  his  guide,  Jerome  Fay,  from  per- 
ishing when  a  storm  overtook  them  on  the  sum- 
mit and  compelled  them  to  spend  a  night  there. 
They  froze  on  one  side  and  roasted  on  the  other. 

The  panorama  from  the  summit  is  beyond  de- 
scription. The  view  takes  in  the  whole  of  Cal^ 
ifornia  from  the  Coast  Range  to  the  Sierra 
Nevadas,  and  from  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  far 
beyond  the  Oregon  boundary — not  less  than  450 
miles.  It  is  probably  unsurpassed  in  the  world. 
Once  the  writer  stood  upon  the  summit  in  July, 
and  there  lay  around  him  100  square  miles  of 
snow.  Often  rolling  masses  of  fleecy  clouds  shut 
out  all  below,  and  one  is  left  as  in  the  very  cham- 
ber of  heaven.  As  one  climbs  the  mountain  he 
will  hear  the  water  gurgling  through  the  loose 
rocks,  fed  by  the  melting  sjiows,  but  no  stream 
flows  directly  from  the  Butte.  A  journey  of  100 
miles  around  the  cone  may  be  made  without 
crossing  a  stream  or  finding  a  spring. 

The  ascent  of  Shasta  is  full  of  interest  to  every 
lover  of  nature.  The  flora  is  remarkable,  and  has 
attracted  to  it  in  person  such  eminent  scientists 
as  Sir  Joseph  Hooker  and  Asa  Gray.  The  ascent  of 
the  mountain  is  always  made  from  Sisson's,  a 
charming  hotel  in  Strawberry  Valley,  Siskiyou 
County,  California,  one  of  the  best  and  cheapest 
places  of  resort  in  the  State.  Horses,  guides, 


304 


blankets,  and  provisions  are  furnished.  If  there 
are  three  in  the  party  the  cost  will  be  $15  each, 
and  $20  if  only  one.  The  trip  reqxiires  36  hours. 
The  first  night  is  spent  camping  at  the  upper 
edge  of  the  pinus  flexilis  and  the  lower  edge  of 
the  snow,  at  an  elevation  of  about  10, 000  feet.  La- 
dies have  occasionally  made  the  ascent,  and  any 
strong  able-bodied  man  or  woman  can  do  so.  It 
is  difficult,  but  not  dangerous. 

Mr.  Sisson  has  erected  a  house  on  the  sum- 
mit of  the  mountain,  in  whicli  tourists  may 
spend  the  night. 

Besides  Mt.  Shasta  there  are  hundreds  of  inter- 
esting places  to  visit  or  to  see.  The  Black  Butte, 
called  the  Black  Cone  by  the  Geological  Survey, 
is  a  sugar-loaf  mass  of  trachyte  more  than  6000 
feet  above  the  sea,  with  an  outline  in  the  horizon 
as  regular  as  it  would'  seem  an  axe  could  hew  it. 
It  is  in  striking  contrast  with  the  deep  blue  azure 
and  the  bright  green  of  Strawberry  Valley. 

Castle  Rock — seen  from  the  stage-road — is  a 
wonderful  uplift  of  granite,  perhaps  surpassing 
every  thing  of  the  kind  outside  of  Yosemite 
Valley,  and  strongly  resembling  the  Sentinel 
Dome. 

Castle  Lake,  Picayune  Lake,  the  Big  Spring, 
"  The  Falls"  on  the  banks  of  the  Sacramento 
River,  and  the  Palls  of  the  McCloud  River  are  all 
sources  of  surpassing  interest.  No  region  of 
California  is  so  varied  in  its  attractions.  Yosem- 
ite is  a  place  to  see,  Mt.  Shasta,  is  a  place  to 
stay. 

The  hunting  and  fishing  are  unsurpassed  in 
California.  The  waters  are  filled  with  trout  and 
salmon.  On  the  McCloud  River  the  trout  weigh 
from  half  a  pound  to  three  pounds,  and  the  Dolly 
Varden  species,  with  bright  red  spots  on  the  side, 
weigh  from  one  pound  to  twelve  pounds.  The 
McCloud  is  a  glacial  stream,  and  the  Dolly  Var- 
^lens  are  found  only  in  such.  Castle  Lake  and 
this  river  are  the  best  trout  and  salmon  fly-fishing 
places  in  the  State. 

The  hunting  is  no  less  attractive  than  the  fish- 
ing. Grizzly  bears  are  not  found  in  the  region, 
but  the  black,  the  brown,  and  the  cinnamon  are 
numerous.  The  puma  or  cougar  is  sometimes 
found,  and  the  lynx  and  two  ^ther  species  of 
wild-cats. 

Deer  are  so  numeroms  that  a  crack  shot  need 
have  no  difficulty  in  bringing  down  at  least  one 
every  day.  There  are  three  varieties,  the  mule, 
black-tailed,  and  white-tailed.  Grouse,  mountain- 
quail,  and  squirrels  are  numerous,  and  mountain 
sheep  and  antelope  are  found  at  no  great  distance. 
Parties  provided  with  guns  can  be  fitted  out  for 
hunting  elk,  antelope,  deer,  or  mountain-sheep 
in  Oregon,  and  provided  with  competent  guides 
by  Sisson.  The  region  is  full  of  mineral  springs, 
there  being  several  in  the  vicinity  of  Sisson 's,  and 
one  of  the  best  at  Campbell's — formerly  Fry's — on 
the  stage-road,  8  miles  south  of  Sisson 's.  The  wa- 


ter is  ice  cold,  strongly  effervescent,  and  charged 
with  soda,  iron,  and  salt.  Campbell's  hotel 
is  excellent.  Parties  are  fitted  out  for  fishing  in 
either  the  McCloud  River  or  Castle  Lake  at  both 
Campbell's  and  Sisson's,  and  at  both  places 
guides  are  to  be  had.  Board  is  $10  a  week  at 
both  places,  saddle-horses  $2  a  day,  and  guides 
with  horse,  $5  a  day. 

Those  who  desire  a  more  detailed  account  of 
this  wonderful  region  should  consult  Clarence 
King's  "Mountaineering  in  the  High  Sierras," 
or  "  Calif ornian  Pictures,  by  Benjamin  Parke 
Avery." 

Mt.  Shasta  is  reached  from  Sacramento  by 
the  Oregon  Division  of  the  Central  Pacific 
Railroad  to  its  terminus  at  Redding;  thence  by 
the  California  and  Oregon  Stage  Line,  sixty- 
nine  miles  to  Campbell's  Soda  Springs,  and 
seventy -seven  miles  to  Sisson's,  both  of  these 
points  being  on  the  direct  overland  stage  route 
from  California  to  Oregon. 

Excursion  tickets,  good  for  thirty  days,  ait- 
sold  from  San  Francisco  to  Campbell's  or  Sis- 
son's  for  $35.40. 

The  Geysers. 

Tourists  will  find  the  trip  to  the  Geysers  the 
most  interesting  and  easy  of  all  the  short  ex- 
cursions in  the  State.  It  is  well  to  go  by  one 
route  and  return  via  another.  The  North 
Pacific  Railroad  will  convey  the  passengers  to 
Cloverdale,  where  stages  are  taken.  The  ride 
to  the  Geysers  is  over  a  splendid  road  amid 
beautiful  mountain  scenery,  and  occasionally 
there  are  examples  of  fine  driving  of  the 
stage-teams.  One  day  at  the  Geysers  is  usually 
enough,  and  the  visitor  will  find  it  absolutely 
necessary  to  rise  as  early  as  5  or  6  A.  M.,  to  see 
the  finest  display  of  steam  from  the  Geysers. 

The  ground  literally  boils  and  bubbles  under 
the  feet.  There  are  devil's  inkstands,  and  cal- 
drons, and  tea-kettles,  and  whistles  enough  to 
overwhelm  eyes,  ears,  smell,  taste  and  touch  with 
horrid  reminiscences.  Yet  so  great  is  the  curios- 
ity it  should  not  be  missed.  Neither  must  the 
traveler  omit  the  enjoyment  of  the  natural 
steam  bath,  the  sensation  on  emerging  from 
which  is  most  delicious.  From  the  Geysers  to 
Calistoga,  the  celebrated  Foss  drives  a  crack 
stage,  and  usually  has  his  spanking  team  of  six- 
in-hand.  Reports  are  strong  as  to  his  fearless 
driving,  but  a  glance  at  the  way  he  beautifully 
manages  his  leaders  and  wheelers,  gives  no  one  any 
anxiety  as  to  safety.  The  stage  route  is  over 
very  great  heights,  up  the  side  of  long  mount- 
ains, from  the  summits  of  which  the  views  are 
glorious,  probably  to  many,  more  enjoyable  than 
the  Geysers. 

The  tourist  must  not  fail,  as  he  returns  to  San 
Francisco,  to  visit  the  PETRIFIED  FOREST,  where 
numerous  petrified  trees  imbedded  in  the  earth 
have  been  recovered.  Some  of  these  were 


305 


giants  of  the  forest,  and  some  were  turned  to 
charcoal  before  being  changed  to  stone. 

There  are  two  routes  to  the  Geysers,  one,  the 
California  Pacific  Railroad  va  Napa  Valley;  the 
other,  via  the  North  Pacific  Bailroad  and  Rus- 
sian River  Valley.  Round  trip  ticket,  to  return 
by  same  route,  $13.00;  to  return  by  different 
route,  $16.00. 

Foss'  Stage  Line  from  the  Geysers  to  Calis- 
toga  separates  at  Foss  Station,  and  passengers 
for  the  Petrified  Trees  make  a  detour  to  these 
without  losing  a  train  to  the  city. 

Lake  County  and  Mineral  Springs. 

Lake  County  is  accessible  from  either  Calis- 
toga  or  Cloverdale,  by  a  stage-ride  of  about 
twenty  miles,  and  is  literally  full  of  health  and 
pleasure  resorts,  including  many  noted  mineral 
springs,  beautiful  scenery  and  plenty  of  fish  and 
game.  Clear  Lake  is  about  twenty  miles  long, 
and  eight  -wide.  Its  immediate  surroundings 
are  much  lower  than  Tahoe.  On  the  lake  are 
famous  soda  and  borax  deposits,  sulphur  banks 
and  quicksilver  mines.  At  the  lower  end  of  the 
lake  is  Soda  Water  Bay,  where  an  immense 
volume  of  soda  water  is  pushed  above  the  sur- 
face of  the  lake.  The  hotel  is  a  lovely  retreat, 
with  baths  of  natural  soda  water,  and  other 
first-class  accommodu  >ns. 

Bassett'c,  in  Cobb  V.  ;y,  the  hotels  in  Lake- 
port,  the  chief  town  on  the  lake,  and  Graham's, 
on  the  "Blue  Lakes,"  two  twin  gems,  about 
twelve  miles  from  Lakeport,  are  noted  pleasure 
resorts.  Among  the  mineral  springs,  are  Har- 
bin's,  Anderson's,  Adams',  Highland, Pierson's, 
Witter's,  Ziegler's,  Howard's,  Bartletfs,  Aliens 
and  Hough's.  At  all  of  these,  remarkable  cures 
have  been  effected.  Five  hundred  have  been  at 
Bartlett's  at  one  time.  Harbin's  is  quite  popular. 
Witter's  is  located  amid  charming  views.  Via 
Calistoga  is  the  most  direct  route  to  Harbin's, 
Anderson's  and  Bassett's  and  Adams',  and  via 
Davisville  and  Williams  (Northern  Rail  way),  the 
most  direct  to  Bartlett's,  Allen's,  Hough's,  and 
via  Cloverdale  to  the  other  points. 

The  White  Sulphur,  long  the  most  fashionable 
mineral  springs  in  the  State,  are  near  St.  Helena 
on  the  California  Pacific  Railroad.  On  the  same 
route  are  the  Calistoga,  "Mud,"  "Soup,  "Hot 
and  Cold  Springs,  and  the  much  used  Napa 
Natural  Soda  Spring,  the  Vallejo  Sulphur 
Spring.  Skagg's  Springs,  near  Geyseryille  on 
the  North  Pacific  Railroad,  have  beautiful  sur- 
roundings. The  hotel,  Litton  Springs,  on  the 
same  railroad,  is  converted  into  a  boarding- 
school.  South  of  San  Francisco,  to  be  reached 
by  the  Northern  Division  of  the  Southern  Pacific 
Railroad,  are  Congress  Springs,  near  San  Jose, 
Gilroy  Hot  Springs,  Paraiso  Springs,  near 
Soledad,  and  near  San  Luis  Obispo,  the  Paso 
Robles,  Mud  and  other  springs,  the  most  noted 


used.                  •    GRAINS 

NAPA  SODA. 

IN  A 

O 

tLLON. 

Bicarbonate  Soda, 

13.1;; 

GRAINS 

Carbonate  Magnesia, 

26.12 

LITTON  8ELTZEI 

I.        IN  A 

Carbonate  Lime, 

10.88 

GALLOK. 

Chloride  Sodium, 
Sub-Carbon  Iron, 

520 

7.84 

Carbo'ic  Acid  (comb.),      42.76 
Chlorine,    ...    -    -      78.38 

Sulphate  Soda,  . 

1.84 

Sulphate  Acid,  . 

.    .       2.36 

Silicious  Acid,    . 

O.f>8 

Si'i.'ic  Acid,  .    . 

.    .       2.02 

0  60 

Oxide  Iron,    .    . 

.     .        2.85 

Loss  

2.48 

Lime,     .... 
VI  amnesia 

.     .        4.41 
524 

fiR  7fi 

So<ia,     .  '  .    .    . 

62  19 

PACIFIC  CONGRESS. 

Alumina, 

Chloride  Sodium, 

119.159 

Ammonia, 

Sulphate  So  la.  . 
Carbonate  S  >da, 
'*            Iron, 

12.140 
123.351 
14.0:10 

Potash, 
Lithia, 
Borauic  Acid, 

.     27.38 

"            Lime, 

17.295 

Organic  matter, 

Silica  Alumina    and 
trace  Magnesia, 

49.882 

227.59 

335.857 

in  the  State.  On  the  Central  Pacific,  near  the 
summit,  are  the  charming  Summit  Soda  Springs, 
one  of  the  most  refreshing  mountain  retreats  on 
the  coast.  Near  Mission,  San  Jose,  are  the  cele- 
brated Warm  Springs,  the  property  of  Governor 
Stanford,  and  not  now  opened  to  the  public. 
The  following  is  an  analysis  of  the  waters  most 


The  quantity  of  free  carbonic  acid  in  the  Lit- 
ton Seltzer,  which  escapes  on  standing,  is  383.75 
grains  per  gallon.  This  large  quantity  of  gas 
is  very  pleasant  to  the  taste,  and  tests  severely 
the  strength  of  bottles,  which  sometimes  explode 
even  in  a  cool  place. 

The  Paso  Roble  Springs  (the  name  means 
Pass  of  Oaks)  most  used,  have  been  analyzed 
with  the  following  result : 

MAIN  HOT  SULPHUR  SPRING.        MtTTJ  SPRING. 

Temperature  1 10,  122  degrees. 

One  imperial  gallon  con- 
tains, Sulphurated  Hy- 
drogen Gas,  .....  4.55  3.28  inches. 

Free  Carbonic  Acid,     .    .  10.50  47.84       " 

Sulphate  Lime 3.21  17.90  grains. 

Sulphate  Potash,      ...       88  trace*. 

Sulphate  Soda,     ....    7.85  41.11 

Perox  Iron, 36 

Alumina, 22 

Silicia, 44  1.11 

Bicarbonate  Magnesia,    .       92  Carbon.  Mag.,  3  10 

Bicarbonate  Soda,    .    .    .  50.74  Carbon.  Soda,  5.21 

Chloride  Sodium,     .     .     .  27.18  96.48 

lodi'e  and  Bromide  trac'?. 

Organic  Matter 64  3.47 

Total  solid  contents,    .  93.44  168.38 

The  Mud  Spring  contains  also  alumina  and 
protoxide  of  iron.  There  are  also  three  cold  sul- 
phur springs  and  three  other  hot  springs,  the  hot- 
test of  the  temperature  of  140  degrees.  There  is, 
also,  a  chalybeate  spring.  Paso  Robles  is  re- 
sorted to  with  good  results  by  persons  suffering 
from  rheumatism,  cutaneous  diseases,  and  some 
constitutional  disorders.  They  are  no  place  for 
consumptives. 

Near  San  Bernardino  are  the  Arrowhead, 
near  Riverside,  the  Ternescal  Warm,  and  near 
Santa  Barbara,  the  Santa  Barbara  Warm  Springs, 
besides  many  others  in  different  parts  of  the 
State. 


306 


SEASIDE  RESORTS. 

Santa  Cruz. — One  of  the  most  enjoyable  of 
seaside  resorts,  and  abounding  in  garden  bloom 
and  floral  beauty,  is  now  reached  by  three 
routes  of  travel,  by  steamer  from  San  Francisco, 
usually  taking  a  few  hours  or  a  day  at  utmost; 
by  The  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  to  Pojaro,  and 
its  branch  to  Santa  Cruz,  and  lastly  by  the  new 
South  Pacific  Coast  Narrow  Gauge  Railroad  via 
San  Jose  and  over  the  Coast  Eange  of  Moun- 
tains. The  last  named  is  a  new  road  of  exceed- 
ing beauty.  Probably  there  is  no  finer  ride  of 
a  day's  length  equal  to  this. 

Santa  Barbara — is  beyond  question,  a  gem 
city  of  the  Pacific  Coast  as  a  resort  for  tourists 
and  invalids.  It  may  be  reached  by  the  Southern 
Pacific  Railroad  and  a  stage  ride  of  one  day,  or 
by  steamer  of  two  days.  It  is  a  city  of  most 
attractive  nature  embowered  among  gardens, 
fruit  trees,  flowers,  and  wonderful  luxuriance 
of  semi-tropical  vegetation  and  cultured  people. 
This  place  is  full  of  admirable  conveniences  of 
hotel  life,  and  invalids  and  tourists  reside  the 
year,  in  enjoyment  of  its  balmy  air.  For  a 
home  residence,  probably  no  place  on  the  Pacific 
Coast  is  its  equal  in  all  advantages  of  climate, 
health  and  social  privileges.  In  the  spring-time, 
when  the  country  is  in  bloom,  the  finest  route 
is  by  stage  from  Soledad.  The  country  is  then 
a  paradise  of  floral  loveliness  the  entire  distance. 

Half  Moon  Bay,  on  the  coast  fourteen  miles 
south  of  the  Golden  Gate;  Pescadero,  about 
forty  miles  from  the  city,  and  Soquel  and  Aptos, 
on  Monterey  Bay,  are  all  patronized  for  bath- 
ing, and  San  Diego  has  been  celebrated  from 
the  earliest  days  for  its  equable  climate  and 
natural  advantages. 

Monterey.  * 

Of  all  the  sea-side  resorts  this  is  the  most 
charming,  delightfully  situated,  125  miles 
from  San  Francisco,  on  the  Bay  of  Monte- 
rey, which  is  28  miles  wide.  This  historic 
•pot  was  reached  in  December,  1601,  and  posses- 
sion taken  in  the  name  of  the  King  of  Spain,  and 
named  after  Gaspar  de  Zuniga,  Count  of  Mon- 
terey and  Viceroy  of  Mexico  at  the  time. 

In  the  fall  of  1769  Gaspar  de  Portala,  governor 
of  Lower  California,  came  overland  from  San 
Diego  with  two  priests  and  63  soldiers  and  erected 
Portala' s  Cross  (immortalized  by  Bret  Harte),  in 
the  vicinity.  In  June,  1770,  Father  Junipero 
Serra,  a  Franciscan,  erected  another  cross  and 
joined  in  hoisting  the  royal  standard  of  Spain. 
It  was  one  of  the  most  nourishing  places  on  the 
coast  from  that  time  until  after  California  be- 
came a  state  in  the  Union. 

The  stars  and  stripes  were  hoisted  by  Commo- 
dore Sloat  July  7,  1846,  and  Monterey,  long  the 
capital  of  the  Spanish  and  Mexican  province, 
was  the  capital  of  the  new  state.  With  the  re- 
moval of  the  capital  to  San  Jose  it  entered  on  a 


Rip  Van  Winkle  sleep,  which  continued  until 
but  recently. 

A  few  years  ago  the  Pacific  Grove  Retreat  was 
formed,  designed  primarily  to  furnish  a  cheap 
and  attractive  summer  resort  for  ministers  of  all 
denominations  and  their  families,  with  all  the 
advantages  of  sea-bathing.  But  the  new  Hotel 
del  Monte,  built  in  modern  Gothic  or  Eastlake 
style,  is  the  finest  on  the  Pacific  Coast  outside 
of  San  Francisco,  and  the  finest  sea-side  hotel 
in  the  world,  and  its  throng  of  visitors  has 
given  a  new  life  to  the  place.  This  hotel  accom- 
modates, in  first-class  style,  400  guests,  and  has 
all  modern  conveniences  and  appliances.  It  is 
385  by  115  feet,  and  three  stories  high — one  an 
attic  story.  The  house  is  elegantly  furnished, 
and  the  grounds,  consisting  of  106  acres,  are 
entirely  closed,  and  beautifully  wooded  with 
pine,  oak,  cedar,  cypress,  English  walnut,  etc. 

A  swimming-bath  alone  has  been  erected  at  a 
cost  of  $30,000,  and  in  the  transformation  of  the 
ancient  but  dead  capital  to  the  chief  resort  of 
the  coast,  not  less  than  half  a  million  dollars 
have  been  expended. 

The  climate  is  unsurpassed,  as  may  be  seen 
in  the  comparison  of  statistics  in  the  "Hints 
to  Invalids,  and  Climate,"  on  page  293. 

The  sea  bathing  is  the  best  on  the  coast  north 
of  Point  Conception,  the  beach  being  especially 
favorable.  Mr.  W.  H.  Dailey,  the  champion 
swimmer  of  the  Pacific  Coast,  who  knows  all 
the  beaches  from  San  Francisco  to  Santa  Monica, 
wrote  December  15,  1879:  "  i  find  it  an  easy, 
sloping  beach  of  fine  sand;  no  gravel,  no  stones 
anywhere  below  high-water  mark.  I  consider 
the  beach  here  the  finest  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 
I  was  in  the  water  an  hour  yesterday,  and  found 
it,  even  at  this  time  of  the  year,  none  too  cold 
for  enjoyable  bathing. "  There  are  also  hot  and 
cold  salt-water  baths,  in  a  bathing-house  on  the 
beach. 

Monterey  is  reached  by  ocean  steamers,  and 
also  by  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad,  Northern 
Division.  An  afternoon  express  train,  with  par- 
lor cars,  makes  the  run  from  San  Francisco  in 
four  hours,  and  returns  in  the  morning.  The 
fare  for  the  round  trip  is  only  $5.00. 

Other  Health  and  Pleasure  Resorts  are  justly 
celebrated,  such  as  Duncan's  Mills,  the  terminus 
of  the  North  Pacific  Coast  Railroad  on  Russian 
River,  at  the  mouth  of  Austin  Creek,  and  three 
miles  from  the  ocean.  This  is  a  choice  place 
for  hunting,  and  it  has  at  times  good  salmon 
and  trout-fishing. 

Los  Angeles,  Anaheim,  Orange,  Wilmington, 
and  the  noted  San  Gabriel  Valley  are  preferred 
by  consumptives  to  Florida.  These  are  all  on 
or  near  the  Southern  Pacific  Overland  route. 

Lake  Tahoe,  Donner  Lake  and  Weber  Lake 
near  the  C.  P.  Overland  route  will,  of  course, 
not  be  forgotten. 

In  the  town  are  many  objects  of  interest,  such 


307 


as  the  Catholic  church,  built  1794,  with  old 
paintings  of  much  merit;  the  old  block-house 
and  fort;  the  Cuartel,  on  California  Street;  Cot- 
ton Hall;  the  old  custom-house,  etc. ;  the  light- 
house on  Point  Pinos,  three  miles  west  of  the 
town,  with  a  Fresnel  light  of  the  third  order; 
the  Moss  Beach;  Seal  Bocks;  Cypress  Point 
and  Carmel  Mission. 

The  last  is  four  miles  south  of  Monterey,  on 
Carmel  Creek,  a  beautiful,  picturesque  spot.  It 
was  founded  by  Father  Junipero  Serra,  June  3, 
1770.  In  1825,  the  Mission  had  90,000  cattle, 
50,000  sheep,  2,000  horses,  2, 000  calves,  370  yoke 
of  oxen,  $50,000  in  merchandise  and  $40,000  in 
silver — all  of  which,  ten  years  later,  was  con- 
verted to  secular  uses  by  decree  of  the  Mexican 
Government.  The  old  ruins  of  the  church  are 
full  of  interest,  and  in  the  yard  near  it  lie  the 
remains  of  fifteen  governors  of  the  province  and 
State,  as  well  as  the  tomb  of  Junipero  Serra. 

Seven  thousand  acres  of  land  owned  by  the 
company,  an  excellent  race-track,  and  fifty 
miles  of  graveled  roads  afford  fine  drives  and 
hunting  and  fishing  that  cannot  be  excelled. 

The  table  of  temperature  of  Monterey  was 
kept  in  1874  by  Dr.  E.  K.  Abbot,  a  correspon- 
dent of  the  United  States  Signal  Service;  that 
for  San  Francisco  by  many  parties,  and  is  a 
mean  of  three  years ;  Los  Angeles  by  W.  H.  Broed- 
rick  (for  1871),  who  took  observations  four  times 
&  day  for  seven  years.  The  Santa  Barbara 


record  is  for  1869,  and  was  kept  by  officers  of 
the  Coast  Survey.  The  Santa  Monica  record  is 
for  1846,  and  was  kept  by  Dr.  W.  S.  King,  of 
the  army,  in  1853.  The  Fort  Yuma  record  was 
kept  by  officers  of  the  army  in  1851.  '  All  others 
are  taken  from  notes  of  travelers  or  from  books 
written  always  from  standpoints  friendly  to 
the  respective  places,  and  sometimes  by  en- 
thusiasts. 

The  following  carefully-prepared  table  presents 
the  mean  temperature  of  Monterey  and  many  other 
health-resorts  and  places  throughout  the  world. 


PLACE. 

Jan. 

July. 

Diff. 

Latitute. 

Degs 
52 

Degs. 

58 

Degs. 
6 

Degs.  Mia. 
36       36 

San  Francisco,    .... 
Los  Angeles    

49 
55 

57 
67 

8 
12 

37        48 
34        04 

Santa  Barbara,  .... 

56 
57 

66 
65 

10 

8 

34        24 
32        41 

Santa  Monica,   .... 
Sacramento    ..... 

58 
46 

65 
73 

7 
28 

.   34        0<) 
38        34 

49 

72 

23 

37        56 

Vallejo,  

48 

67 

19 

38        05 

56 

92 

36 

32       43 

30 

74 

44 

39        06 

New  York,      

31 

77 

46 

40        37 

55 

82 

27 

29        67 

Naples,  

46 

76 

30 

40        62 

71 

77 

6 

21       16 

60 

70 

10 

32        38 

40 

73 

33 

43        71 

46 

77 

31 

44       24 

City  of  Mexico,      .    .    . 
Jacksonville  

52 
58 
69 

63 
80 

77 

11 

22 

18 

19        26 
30        50 
30        05 

Santa  Cruz  

50 

60 

10 

37        00 

THE  HOTEL  DEL  MONTE  AND  GROUNDS  AT  MONTEKEY,  CAL. 


308 


The    Old    Overland   Route,    or  Sacramento    to  San 
'  Francisco,  via  Stockton,  Lathrop,  Liver- 
more    Pass    and   Niles. 


Leaving  Sacramento  by  this  route,  now  a  part 
of  the  Central  Pacific  Bailroad,  but  formerly 
the  Western  Pacific,  we  do  not  cross  the  Sacra- 
mento Biver,  but  go  along  its  bank  until  we 
pass  most  of  the  city  and  then  leave  the  river, 
for  higher  land  some  distance  back.  We  reach 

UriffMon, — 134  miles  from  £-an  Francisco, 
where  the  Sacramento  Valley  Railroad  leaves 
the  main  track.  This  road  extends  to  Folsom, 
22  miles,-where  it  connects  with  the  Sacramento 
Valley  and  Placerville  Railroad,  to  Shingle 
Springs  26  miles,  whence  daily  stages  leave  for 
Placerville,  58  miles  from  Sacramento.  The  old 
town  of  Brighton  was  on  the  Sacramento  River 
opposite  the  present  station,  and  on  the  old 
Placerville  road. 

California  Wind-Mills. —  As  you  pass 
along  you  notice  numerous  windmills,  of  various 
sizes  and  styles,  whirling  away  to  fill  reservoirs  for 
household  wants,  or  irrigate  the  vineyards  or 
orchards  and  gardens,  if  any  there  be.  They  are 
common  in  all  the  valleys  and  plains  of  Cali- 
fornia, and  numerous  in  the  cities.  The  sobri- 
quet of  Stockton  is  the  "  Windmill  City." 

About  California  farms  there  is  usually  no 
garden.  Perhaps  a  few  vegetables  are  raised 
during  the  winter.  In  some  localities  certain 
fruits  or  vegetables  do  not  grow  well,  and  the 
farmer  who  has  twenty  or  a  hundred  head  of 
horses,  before  his  gang-plows,  or  harvesting  his 
wheat  or  barley,  has  no  time  for  gardening  and 
prefers  to  depend  upon  the  daily  visits  of  the 
vegetable  wagon  as  well  as  the  butcher.  And 
among  our  cosmopolitan  people,  the  only  class  we 
lack  is  the  farming  women  of  the  Mohawk  Val- 
ley, or  the  Pennsylvania  Dutch. 

Florin  —  is  131  miles  from  San  Francisco, 


a  flag  station  —  side  track,  store  and  post-office. 
The  hard  pan  is  near  the  surface,  and  therefore 
but  little  moisture  retained  from  the  most 
copious  winter  rains.  Trees  cannot  send  down 
their  roots  until  this  hard  pan  is  broken  through 
for  them. 

Elk  Grove,— 123  miles  from  San  Francisco. 
In  early  days  the  hunter  here  could  find  large 
game  without  visiting  Shasta,  Tulare  Lake  or 
the  mountains.  At  the  old  hotel  the  sign  of  the 
elk  horns  invited  the  traveler,  suggesting  him  a 
dish  that  even  then  was  seldom  seen.  Beyond, 
on  the  right  hand,  is  some  of  the  best  soil  in  the 
State  in  the  low  lands,  comprising  the  delta  of 
the  Sacramento,  Mokelumne  and  San  Joaquin 
Rivers.  There  are  Presbyterian  and  Methodist 
Episcopal  Churches  in  the  village. 

McConneU's,—119  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, on  the  banks  of  the  Cosumne  River,  a 
stream  like  all  others  in  California,  turbid  in 
winter,  and  an  empty  channel  in  summer. 

In  California  the  name  "ranche"  (a  contrac- 
tion of  the  Spanish  rancho,  which  is  primarily 
the  rude  lodging-place  of  herdsmen,  or  an  estab- 
lishment for  raising  horses  and  cattle),  has 
almost  superseded  the  "hacienda,"  or  farm.  Mc- 
Connell's  Ranche  is,  however,  devoted  largely  to 
stock  raising,  and  on  it  are  kept  the  finest 
imported  thorough-bred  merino  sheep.  Sheep 
raising  is  among  the  most  profitable  pursuits  in 
the  State,  and  the  woolen  manufactures  of  Cali- 
fornia are  unequaled  in  whatever  line  they  have 
hitherto  sought  to  excel. 

Gait — is  112  miles  from  San  Francisco.  The 
Central  Pacific  Company  have  now  built  a 
branch  road  to  the  coal  mines  at  lone  City, 
called 


The  Amador  Branch  Railroad. 


This  branch  was  built  in  the  year  1878  to 
reach  the  coal-fields  at  Carbondale  and  lone  City, 
and  accommodate  the  mining  and  agricultural 
interests  of  Amador  and  in  part  Calaveras 
County.  It  is  only  27.2  miles  long.  Leaving 
Gait,  after  the  arrival  of  the  trains  from  East 
and  West,  the  general  course  is  south  and  south- 
east, over  a  grazing  section  toward  the  foothills. 


Cicero  and  Carbondale  are  the  only  stations 
between  Gait  and  lone.  The  latter  is  the 
station  for  the  Carbondale  mines,  owned  by 
the  lone  Coal  Company.  The  average  ship- 
ments are  fifteen  car-loads  a  day.  The  coal  is 
not  of  very  good  quality,  but  answers  well  for 
some  kinds  of  manufacturing  purposes. 

lone  City  is  in  a  prosperous  mining  and 


309 


farming  region.  Coal-fields  of  great  extent 
underlie  this  region,  and  twenty  car-loads  are 
shipped  daily.  The  place  is  a  brisk  one,  and 
has  the  usual  characteristics  of  a  mining  town. 
One  weekly  paper,  the  News,  is  published  here. 
It  is  the  base  of  supplies  for  a  number  of  mining 
camps  and  several  towns  of  considerable  import- 
ance. Among  the  latter  is 

Suffer  Creek,  12  miles  distant  by  stage, 
ranking  next  to  Grass  Valley  in  Nevada  County, 
as  a  quartz  mining  locality.  Here  is  the  famous 
Amador  or  Hayward  Mine,  where  the  excava- 
tions are  now  made  several  hundred  feet  below 
the  level  of  the  sea.  It  has  been  one  of  the  richest 
mines  in  the  State,  and  produces  about  $700,000 
annually.  With  irrigation,  fruit  growing  and 
agriculture  succeed  well. 

Jackson,  also  12  miles  by  stage  from  lone 
City,  was  formerly  rich  in  placer  mines,  but  the 
prosperous  mining  interests  of  to-day  are  in 


quartz.  The  soil  and  climate  combine  to  pro- 
duce fruit  unexcelled  in  the  State,  and  large 
quantities  of  wine  and  brandy  are  made. 

Mokelumne  Hill  (pronounced  Mokel-em- 
ne),  is  18  miles  by  stage  from  lone  City.  It  has 
a  population  of  1,200,  and  was  the  county-seat 
of  Calaveras  County  until  1867.  It  was  one  of 
the  earliest  mining  settlements.  The  Gwin  and 
other  quartz  mines  are  now  successfully  worked. 
From  this  point  there  is  a  road  to  the  Calaveras 
Big  Trees,  but  it  is  not  the  direct  route  from 
San  Francisco,  and  therefore  is  traveled  but 
little,  except  by  those  who  desire  to  visit  the 
towns  between  them  and  Gait. 

Its  weekly  newspaper,  the  Chronicle,  is  the 
oldest  in  the  State. 

Jone  City  has  stages  also  to  the  following 
points,  viz. :  Volcano,  25  miles ;  West  Point,  38 
miles ;  Amador,  14  miles ;  Drytown,  16  miles ; 
Plymouth,  18  miles  and  Fiddletown  or  Oleta. 


Acambo,  on  main  line,  only  a  flag  station. 

Lodi — formerly  called  Mokelumne. 

Just  before  reaching  the  village,  the  Mokel- 
umne River  is  crossed.  Lodi  is  one  of  a  flour- 
ishing trio  of  villages,  the  other  two  being 
Woodbridge,  two  miles  northwest,  and  Lock- 
ford,  four  miles  north  of  Lodi.  This  is  one  of 
the  best  portions  of  the  greatvalley,  across  which 
one  now  passes.  The  soil  is  a  rich  sandy  loam, 
producing  abundantly,  and  the  intelligent, 
energetic  people  are  surrounded  with  all  the 
necessary  appendages  of  first-class  farms.  The 
evergreen  trees  have  given  their  name,  "Live 
Oukx"  to  a  large  region  in  this  part  of  the 
valley. 

Castle — is  97  miles  from  San  Francisco — a 
flag  station.  The  Calaveras  River  is  crossed  be- 
fore reaching  Stockton,  but  except  in  winter  is 
only  an  empty  channel.  On  either  side  of  the 
roaid  will  be  seen  abundant  crops,  or  unmis- 
takable promise  of  them.  Much  of  the  laud  is 
so  level  that  the  large  fields  of  100  or  more  acres 
can  be  completely  submerged  from  either  of 
their  sides. 

On  the  right,  entering  the  town  of  Stockton, 
stands  one  of  the  Insane  Asyjiums  of  the 
State.  The  other  is  located  at  Napa.  The 
grounds  at  this  place  comprise  13J  acres  all 
under  a  high  state  of  cultivation.  There  are 
about  1,300  inmates.  The  first  building  passed 
is  the  largest  and  most  imposing,  has  every 
modern  convenience,  and  is  occupied  by  female 
inmates.  The  males  occupy  the  other  buildings. 

Stoc/cton, — is  91  miles  from  San  Francisco 
and  has  a  population  of  13,000.  It  is  23  feet 
above  the  sea,  and  the  county-seat  of  San  Joa- 
quin  County.  It  was  laid  out  in  1848  by  Captain 
Webber,  who  named  it  to  commemorate  Commo- 
dore Stockton's  part  in  the  conquest  of  Califor- 


nia. It  is  two  miles  from  the  San  Joaquin  River, 
at  the  head  of  Stockton  Slough  which  is  navi- 
gable at  all  season  for  vessels  of  250  tons. 

The  heart  of  the  town  -was  destroyed  by  fire 
in  1849  and  again  in  1851.  It  is  laid  out  with 
broad  streets  at  right  angles,  and  has  street  cars 
from  the  depot  to  the  principal  hotels  and  the 
Insane  Asylum.  "Free  Busses"  also  convey 
passengers  to  the  Yosemite,  Mansion,  Grand  or 
Central — all  first-class  hotels.  The  city  was  once 
the  exclusive  base  of  supply  for  a  large  mining 
and  agricultural  trade  which  is  now  diverted,  yet 
the  development  of  the  country  has  caused  a 
steady  increase  of  its  volume  of  business. 

The  water  supply  is  from  an  artesian  well 
1,002  feet  deep,  flowing  300,000  gallons  of  pure 
water  daily,  the  water  rising  11  feet  above  the 
surface  of  the  ground.  The  city  is  lighted  with 
gas  and  has  an  efficient  volunteer  fire  department. 
Two  daily  and  weekly  papers,  the  Stockton  In- 
dependent and  Evening  Herald,  four  banks  and 
large  woolen,  leather,  wood,  iron  and  paper  fac- 
tories, wholesale  and  retail  stores,  and  an  exten- 
sive grain  business  are  the  foundations  and 
measures  of  the  prosperity  of  the  city.  The 
leather  tanned  here  is  considered  equal  to  the 
best  French,  and  commands  as  high  a  price. 

The  proximity  of  iron  and  coal  should  make 
this  city  the  Pittsburgh  of  the  Pacific.  ]t  has, 
fourteen  organized  churches,  some  of  which 
have  built  houses  of  worship — Roman  Catholics, 
Methodists  (North  and  South,  German  and  Col- 
ored), Episcopalians,  Congregationalists,  Baptists, 
white  and  colored  Christians  (Disciples),  and 
Jews.  Passing  in  the  cars,  nothing  is  seen  of 
the  better  residences,  of  which  there  are  many, 
provided  with  every  convenience  and  comfort. 
Excellent  public  and  private  schools  are  the 
boast  of  the  people,  for,  if  Calif ornians  ever 


iilO 


boast  (which  they  never  do)  they  do  not  forget 
to  speak  of  their  schools.  Masons,  Odd-Fel- 
lows, Ked  Men,  Knights  of  Pythias,  Hiberni- 
ans, Pioneers,  and  other  societies,  representing 
social  and  benevolent  progress.  Near  the  de- 

Sot,  on  the  left,  may  be  seen  the  grounds  of  the 
an  Joaquin  Valley  Agricultural  Society. 
The  city  has  the  best  climate  of  the  valley. 
The  hot  air  of  the  city  is  tempered  by  the  sea- 
breeze,  and  the  nights  are  always  cool. 

As  a  railroad  centre  Stockton  has  not  yet  at- 
tained the  position  to  which  her  position  at  the 
mouth  of  the  great  San  Joaquin  Valley  enti- 
tles her.  A  narrow-guage  railroad  to  lone  City 
was  commenced,  but  has  been  abandoned.  It 
has  only  one  line  besides  the  Central  Pacific, 
to  wit: — 


The  branch  from  Peters  runs  to  "Waverly 
and  Milton. 

Milton  is  a  grazing  section,  and  is  best 
known  as  the  point  of  departure  by  stage  for 
Murphy 's.Calaveras,  Big  Trees,  Sonora,  Chinese 
Camp  and  the  Yosemite  Valley.  A  train  leaves 
Stockton  at  7:30  A.M.  and  connects  at  Milton 
with  the  stages  of  the  Big  Oak  Flat  route  for 
the  Trees  and  the  Valley,  and  passengers  en- 
tering Yoseraite  by  this  route  must  remain 
over-night  at  Stockton.  For  further  informa- 
tion on  this  point  see  pages  299-303. 


Continuing  toward  San  Francisco,  on  the  old 
overland  route,  we  soon  reach — 

Lathrop,  82.8  miles  from  San  Francisco,  by 
this  route,  and  94  miles  -via  Martinez  and  San 


A   MINING   CAMP  IN  AKIZONA. 


The   Stockton  and   Copperopolis  Rail- 
road. 

This  is  owned  by  the  railroad  kings  of  Cali- 
fornia, and  leased  to  and  operated  by  the  Cen- 
tral Pacific.  It  extends  easterly  into  Calaveras 
and  Stanislaus  counties.  At  Peters,  fifteen 
miles  from  Stockton,  one  branch  goes  to 
Milton,  thirty  miles  from  Stockton,  and  an- 
other to  Oakdale,  thirty-four  miles  from  Stock- 
ton. Between  Stockton  and  Peters  are  Charles- 
ton, Walthall  and  Holden,  all  villages  in  a  rich 
farming  country.  The  branch  to  Oakdale  goes 
through  Farmington,  Trigo,  Clyde  and  Bur- 
netts— all  in  a  beautiful  wheat-growing  section. 


Pablo.  The  longer  route  is  traveled  by  all  ex- 
press trains,  so  as  to  avoid  the  steep  grades  of 
the  Livermore  Pass.  Lathrop  is  almost  wholly 
a  railroad  town.  It  is  the  Junction  of  the  San 
Joaquin  Valley  Branch,  or  "Visalia  Division" 
of  the  Central  Pacific.  This  division  extends 
south  to  Goshen  147  miles,  and  there  unites 
with  the  Southern  Pacific.  Thus  Lathrop  is 
on  the  route  of  the  overland  trains  via  the 
Southern  Pacific.  At  this  point  passengers 
going  south  and  east  dine,  and  Yosemite  tour- 
ists take  supper.  For  the  "  San  Joaquin  Val- 
ley" see  pages  334  and  335,  under  the  Soutkei  n 
Pacific  Overland  Route. 


311 


The  San  Joaquin  Valley  is  exceedingly  dusty 
in  summer.  For  this  reason  the  Palace  cars 
are  much  more  comfortable  than  others,  be- 
cause they  are  always  at  the  head  of  the  train. 
The  tourist  will  be  struck  with  the  absence  of 
all  verdure  except  where  irrigated,  but  must 
remember  that  here  the  land  rests  in  summer, 
and  the  grass  grows  as  soon  as  the  early  rains 
fall  upon  it.  The  beautiful  mantle  of  green 
that  covers  the  earth  in  winter  and  spring  is 
turned  to  hay  without  any  artificial  process,  the 
grass  storing  all  its  rich  juices. 

San  Joaquin  Bridge, — 79  miles  from  San 
Francisco,  is  a  station  at  the  railroad  crossing  of 
the  San  Joaquin  River.  The  channel  is  on  the 
west  side,  and  in  high  water  the  country  is  over- 
flowed for  miles  up  and  down  the  river,  reaching 
back  from  it  almost  to  Bantas,  the  next  station. 

Bantas, — 75  miles  from  San  Francisco,  and 
30  feet  above  tide-water,  is  named  for  an  old 
family  resident  here.  Stages  leave  at  1.30  p. 
M.,  for  San  Joaquin  City,  10  miles,  Grayson,  20 
miles,  Mahoney's,  35  miles,  and  Hill's  Ferry,  40 
miles.  Through  fare,  $3.50.  To  the  right  of 
Bantas,  down  the  San  Joaquin  River,  or  the 
branch  called  "  Old  River  "  is  a  vast  extent  of 
lowland,  overflowed  in  June,  by  the  melting 
snows  of  the  Sierra  Nevadas,  and  during  most 
of  the  rainy  season. 

After  the  water  passes  off,  flowers  spring  up, 
and  the  button  willow  blooms,  affording  excel- 
lent bee-pasture.  From  the  first  of  July  to  the 
first  of  November,  a  single  swarm  of  bees  will 
often  gather  100  Ibs.  of  honey.  Those  who  take 
care  of  the  bees  also  take  quinine  with  the 
honey  to  cure  the  "  chills."  This  is  believed  to 
be  the  extent  of  their  acquaintance  with  "  Bit- 
ter-sweet." Hundreds  of  acres  of  floating  land 
here  rise  and  fall  with  the  water. 

Tracy  Junction. — Here  is  the  junction  of 
the  two  routes,  the  Old  Overland  and  the 
Southern  Pacific  Overland,  or  the  Central 
Pacific  and  the  San  Pablo  and  Tulare  Railroad. 

Ellis, — 70  miles  Irom  San  Francisco,  and  76 
feet  elevation,  another  village  which  bustles  in 
the  midst  of  vast  wheat  fields,  during  seasons 
following  a  wet  winter,  and  sleeps  under  vast 
disappointments  during  other  years. 

This  "  West  Side  "  of  the  San  Joaquin  River, 
was  supposed,  for  many  years,  to  be  worthless. 
The  old  Spaniards  left  it  out  of  their  ranches 
except  when  a  few  square  miles  or  leagues  were 
taken  in  for  the  sake  of  securing  a  convenient 
"  loma "  as  a  landmark.  In  1849-50,  as  the 
gold-digger  urged  his  mule,  well  laden  with 
tent,  bedding,  pan  and  rocker,  and  three 
months'  provisions,  his  heart  full  of  expectation 
of  a  "  pile  "  to  be  speedily  dug  from  the  placers 
of  the  "  Southern  Mines,"  his  eyes  were  often 
gladdened  by  a  lake  of  bright  water  near  the 
"trail"  only  a  mile  ahead.  He  saw  white  sails, 
waves  chasing  each  other,  and  trtes  on  the  chores 


reflected  from  their  bosom.  He  expected  soon 
to  camp  in  the  grateful  shade,  and  slake  his 
burning  thirst  with  the  cool  water.  The  white 
sails  bounded  away,  antelope-like,  across  the 
burning  plains,  for  alas  1  it  was  only  a  mirage — 
an  emblem  of  his  expected  wealth.  Even  now 
many  are  deluded  in  seeing  the  distant  water 
and  green  trees  beyond. 

The  soil  of  this  once  desert  region,  now  pro- 
duces the  best  of  wheat,  when  the  rains  are 
abundant,  but  from  its  peculiar  position  on  the 
north-east  of  the  Coast  Range,  the  necessary 
rain  is  often  wanting.  A  local  adage  is  "  every 
seven  years  a  crop  " — worse  than  ancient  Egypt's 
famine.  But  the  land-owners  are  moving  to 
construct  a  ditch  60  feet  wide  and  300  miles 
long,  to  irrigate  the  entire  valley  on  the  west 
side  of  the  river,  and  serve  for  transporting  the 
produce  to  the  tide-water  of  Suisun  Bay.  Once 
accomplished  this  almost  desert  land,  will  easily 
support  a  popnlation  of  3,000,000. 

Fourteen  miles  south-west  from  this  station  is 
Corral  Hollow  or  Pass,  in  the  mountain  range,  at 
the  head  of  which  are  extensive  coal  mines,  to- 
ward which  a  branch  railroad  extends  five  miles. 
Here  an  extra  engine  is  taken  by  long  trains  to 
overcome  the  steep  grade  of  the  Lavennore 
Pass,  in  the  Mount  Diablo  Range. 

Midway. — The  train  now  runs  around  hills, 
high  embankments,  and  through  deep  cuts,  the 
engine  often  seen  from  the  car  window  like  the 
fiery  head  of  a  huge  serpent. 

The  soil  is  coarse  sand  and  gravel,  the  finer 
particles  of  which,  and  vegetation,  too,  it  seems, 
have  been  blown  away  by  the  trade-winds,  which, 
pent  up  by  the  long  range,  rush  with  concentrated 
fury  over  the  summit  of  the  pass,  and  sweep 
down  with  devastating  force  into  the  vacuum  on. 
the  heated  plains. 

Suddenly  the  train  enters  a  tunnel,  1,116  feet 
long,  the  only  one  between  Sacramento  and  San 
Francisco,  and  is  in  total  darkness  for  two 
minutes.  Emerging,  it  soon  arrives  at 

Altamont, — ;west  of  the  summit  of  the  Mount 
Diablo  Range,  56  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
and  740  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The 
traveler  will  see  numerous  gray  squirrels  stand- 
ing erect  at  the  entrance  to  their  homes.  They 
are  about  as  large  as  the  fox-squirrel  of  the  East- 
ern States,  live  in  villages  of  their  own,  are  the 
pest  of  the  farmer,  have  increased  since  the  land 
has  been  cultivated,  and  lay  the  grain  fields 
under  a  tribute  far  heavier  than  the  rent.  It  is 
a  remarkable  fact  that  both  birds  and  squirrels 
have  increased  in  variety  and  numbers  all  over 
the  cultivated  regions  of  the  State  since  1850. 
As  the  train  descends  into  Livermore  Valley,  a 
truly  picturesque  scene  is  presented.  The  level 
valley,  in  form  a  square  12  miles  across,  with 
many  narrow  extensions  far  into  the  mountains, 
is  spread  out  before  one  in  full  view,  with  rolling 


312 


hills  on  all  sides,  except  the  west,  where  rises  an 
abrupt,  tree-clad  mountain. 

On  the  right,  across  the  low  hills,  green  with 
live  oaks,  may  now  be  seen  Mt.  Diablo,  not  as 
before,  a  blue  dome,  but  a  real  mountain,  with 
deep  gorges  in  its  sides,  covered  with  chaparral, 
and  capped  usually  with  gray  mists. 

It  is  an  Indian  legend  that  this  country,  west 
of  the  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains,  was  once  cov- 
ered with  water,  and  the  top  of  this  mountain 
then  a  little  island.  At  that  period,  says  the 
legend,  the  devil  was  there  imprisoned  by  the 
waters  for  a  long  time,  and,  therefore,  great  pros- 
perity and  quiet  resulted  to  mankind ;  hence 
his  name  was  given  to  it.  However  the  name 
may  have  been  first  given,  it  now  clings  to  it  in 
Spanish  form. 

The  western  portion  of  this  valley  contains 
hundreds  of  acres  of  the  best  land  in  the  State, 
much  of  it  moist,  vegetable  land,  in  the  midst  of 
which  is  a  lake  of  fresh  water,  near  which  are 
natural  flowing  wells.  From  these  the  creek  de- 
rives its  name  "  Las  Posvas  " — i.  e.,  little  wells. 

Much  of  the  eastern  part  of  the  valley  is  cov- 
ered, to  a  great  depth,  with  small,  angular  stones, 
mixed  with  clay,  and  the  region  was  thought  to 
be  useless,  but  it  now  produces  the  finest  of 
wheat. 

From  Altamont,  it  is  8.1  miles  to 

Livermoref — 48  miles  from  San  Francisco. 
This  is  a  live  town,  485  feet  above  tide-water, 
with  1,000  inhabitants,  a  seminary  of  learning, 
beautifully  nestled  amid  sturdy  oaks,  a  Presby- 
terian and  a  Catholic  church,  a  steam  mill,  news- 
paper, saloons,  stores,  and  several  large  ware- 
houses. Nine  miles  south,  and  at  the  head  of 
Corral  Hollow,  are  five  veins  of  good  coal  yield- 
ing 100  tons  per  day,  and  six  miles  from  the  town 
another  vein  has  been  opened.  These  are  prob- 
ably an  extension  of  the  Mount  Diablo  Coal 
fields  which  have  been  worked  for  many  years. 
Six  and  one-tenth  miles  down  the  valley  is 

Pleasanton, — 41  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
353  feet  above  the  sea,  a  village  of  300  inhab- 
itants, with  several  stores,  a  large  warehouse,  an 
abundance  of  good  water,  and  a  rich,  beautiful 
country  on  the  north  connecting  with  other  val- 
leys, and  extending  to  Martinez  at  the  head  of 
the  Straits  of  Carquinez.  This  region,  now  Liv- 
ermore  Valley,  was  formerly  called  Amador  Val- 
ley, from  its  original  owner,  and  was  an  inland 
sea.  In  1836,  Mr.  Livermore  found  the  bones  of 
&  whale  on  the  surface  of  the  ground,  near  the 
town  which  bears  his  name.  The  vertebrae  lay 
in  order  with  the  ribs  scattered  about  like  the 
rails  of  a  "worm"  fence.  Abalone  shells  are 
also  found  in  quantities  near  the  old  ranche 
house.  Beautiful  variegated  wild  pansies,  the 
hipin  and  California  poppy  have  taken  the  place 
of  sea  weeds. 

In  June  may  be  seen,  near  Pleasanton,  high 
»bove  the  grain,  the  yellow  blossoms  of  the  black 


mustard.  In  former  years  it  stood  12  feet  high, 
and  so  thick  that  it  was  difficult  to  force  one's 
way  through  it.  To 

Sunol, — (Sun-yole)  38  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, the  train  dashes  down  the  narrow  valley  of 
the  Alasal  Creek,  5.2  miles,  amid  pleasing  scen- 
ery, and  relics  of  the  Mexican  and  Indian  civili- 
zation of  California.  On  the  i-ight  is  the  Contra 
Costa  Range  of  Coast  Mountains,  so  called  be- 
cause opposite  the  Coast  Range,  near  and  north 
of  San  Francisco.  It  is  only  a  few  miles  across 
to  the  San  Jose  (San  Ho-zay)  Valley,  where  the 
train  will  pass  in  an  opposite  direction.  Sunol 
Valley,  a  mile  wide  and  three  miles  long,  is  south 
of  this  station.  Seven  miles  above  this  is  the 
Calaveras  Valley,  containing  1,500  acres — the 
proposed  site  of  a  vast  reservoir  to  supply  San 
Francisco  with  water  in  future  years.  The 
mountains  about  these  valleys  are  extensive 
sheep  and  cow  pastures,  covered  with  wild  oats. 

The  road  passes  down  the  canon  of  the  Ala- 
meda  Creek  and  over  three  fine  bridges,  yet 
winding  with  the  canon,  steep  mountains  on 
both  sides,  dressed  in  green  or  parched  with  sum- 
mer heat;  the  bracing  sea  breezes,  and  the 
knowledge  that  in  an  hour  and  a  half  the  cars 
will  reach  the  bay,  revive  the  spirits  of  the 
traveler.  Soon  a  scene  of  wide  extended 
beauty  is  to  burst  on  his  vision — the  San  Jose 
Valley,  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  the  Serrated 
Mountains  that  turn  back  the  ocean  tides  of 
8,000  miles  travel,  and  all  around  him,  as  he 
hurries  on  to  the  great  city,  a  garden  spot  more 
and  more  variegated  with  the  choicest  fruits  and 
flowers,  and  abundant  in  homes  of  luxury  and 
ease.  From  Sunol  it  is  6.4  miles  to 

Niles, — 30  miles  from  San  Francisco,  88  feet 
above  tide-water.  Here  are  a  store,  hotel,  ware- 
house and  mill.  A  stage  runs  from  all  trains  to 
Centreville,  three  miles  distant.  Here  is  the 
junction  of  the  San  Jose  Branch  of  the  Central 
Pacific  Bailroad.  Those  desiring  to  go  to  San 
Jose  without  passing  through  San  Francisco, 
will  change  cars  at  this  point,  and  a  through 
ticket  to  San  Francisco  will  be  received  for 
passage  to  San  Jose.  This  branch  passes  through 
Washington  Corners,  the  seat  of  a  flourishing 
college,  under  Rev.  S.  S.  Harmon,  and  a  pleas- 
ant village  overlooking  the  bay. 

Three  miles  farther  are  the  \Varm  Springs,  in 
the  midst  of  oak  and  other  trees  near  the  Aqua 
Caliente  (hot  water)  Creek.  The  minerals  that 
increase  the  value  of  the  heated  water  are  lime, 
sulphur,  magnesia  and  iron.  They  were  for- 
merly a  popular  resort,  but  are  now  the  property 
of  Governor  Stanford.  When  his  designs  of 
building  and  beautifying  are  completed,  it  will 
be  one  of  the  most  attractive  of  the  summer 
resorts. 

Near  Niles  the  Alameda  Creek  is  turned  into 
a  ditch  30  feet  wide,  and  distributed  over  the 
valley  for  irrigation,  1m  although  both  the  laud 


313 


and  climate  are  moist,  irrigation  promotes  tli  • 
growth  of  fruits  and  vegetables  called  for  by  tin 
San  Francisco  market. 

Adjoining  the  south-east  end  of  this  bay,  are 
20,000  acres  of  salt  marsh,  now  in  process  of 
reclamation  by  dikes  and  ditches. 

Along  the  east  side  of  the  bay  are  numerous 
salt  ponds,  the  sea  water  being  let  in  at  high  tide 
upon  a  large  tract  of  land,  when  the  rainy  sea- 
son is  over,  and  this  repeated  several  times.  The 
concentrated  brine  is  then  drawn  off  in  a  planked 
reservoir,  where  it  slowly  crystallizes. 

As  the  train  passes  down  2.8  miles  to  Decoto, 
the  eye  is  pleased,  in  April  and  May,  by  the 
mountain  on  the  right — round,  green,  shaven, 
like  a  lawn,  or  its  sides  rich  with  fields  of  grain ; 
or  yellow  with  large  patches  of  buttercups,  blue 
with  lupin,  or  deep  orange  with  the  Eschscholt- 
zia,  or  California  wild  poppy,  gathered,  no  doubt, 
far  east  of  this  point,  for  many  a  sentimental 
nosegay,  in  honor  of  the  traveler's  acquaintance. 
It  is  a  flower  peculiar  to  the  north-west  coast  of 
America.  Wild  flowers  are  so  numerous  in  Cal- 
ifornia that  often  from  twenty  to  a  hundred  va- 
rieties may  be  gathered  from  one  spot. 

On  the  left,  the~trees  mark  the  Alameda  Creek, 
flowing  down  to  the  salt  land.  Beyond  this  lies 
the  Old  San  Jose  Road,  and  the  richest  and  best 
cultivated  portion  of  the  valley.  At  Centreville, 
half -hidden  in  the  distance,  is  an  Alden  fruit  f  ac- 
tory,  convenient  to  large  orchards,  and,  near  by, 
on  the  farm  of  Rev.  W .  W.  Brier,  stands  the  tree 
from  which  originated  the  thousands  of  acres  of 
Brier's  Languedoc  Almond,  the  soft-shelled  al- 
mond, that  no  traveler  has  ever  seen  excelled  in 
flavor. 

The  hill-sides  from  one  to  500  feet  above  the 
valleys,  are  best  adapted  to  its  culture,  because 
the  warm  air  from  the  lowlands  prevents  injury 

from  frost.      At 

Decoto — 27  miles  from  San  Francisco,  may 
be  seen  the  Eucalyptus,  or  Blue  Gum  Tree. 
Under  favorable  circumstances  it  will  grow 
in  five  years,  from  the  seed,  to  a  height  oi 
seventy  feet,  with  a  circumference  of  four 
feet.  The  green  wood  splits  readily,  but 
the  dry  is  as  hard  as  the  lignum-vitae.  They 
are  highly  prized  for  a  supposed  tendency  to 
counteract  malaria,  and  their  cultivation  is  rap- 
idly extending. 

Soon  after  leaving  Decoto,  Alvarado  may  be 
seen.  It  was  once  the  county-seat  of  Alameda 
County.  The  valley  land  in  this  vicinity  sells 
for  f  150  to  $250  per  acre,  and  the  mountain  land 
from  $10  to  $30.  It  is  a  peculiarity  of  Califor- 
nia, that  the  value  of  land  is  always  stated  sep- 
arately from  improvements. 

Hay  wards, — 21  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
is  6.3  miles  from  Decoto.  The  town  is  seen  a 
mile  to  the  right,  on  the  hill,  at  the  outlet  of 
Castro  Valley — rich,  rolling  and  beautiful,  and 
watered,  four  miles  long  by  two  wide.  Cas- 


tro Valley  is  named  in  honor  of  the  original 
owner  of  the  ranche,  and  Hayward's  Hotel  is  a 
well-known  resort. 

On  the  hill,  to  the  right,  is  seen  a  forest — that 
may  be  mistaken  for  evidence  that  these  hills 
have  been  recently  denuded  of  their  timber.  It 
is  a  forest  of  the  Blue  Gum  Tree — 200  acres, 

The  town  has  churches,  public  schools,  and 
the  hotel,  still  kept  by  Mr.  Hayward,  is  a  popular 
place  of  resort  for  those  who  seek  a  good  and 
quiet  home  without  removing  from  business  in 
the  city.  Stages  leave  this  station  for  Alvarado 
at  9:20  A.  M.,  and  4:20  F.  M.,  and  from  all  trains 
to  Hayward. 

Lorenzo, — 18  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
near  San  Lorenzo  Creek,  and  surrounded  by  a 
well  improved  country.  It  is  a  pleasant  village, 
and  contains  an  extensive  establishment  for 
drying  fruit  on  the  Alden  process,  a  store,  a  neat 
church  edifice  and  the  usual  places  to  "  take  a 
drink."  The  land  is  worth  $600  per  acre.  The 
large  building  to  the  right  on  the  mountain  side, 
is  the  Poorhouse  of  Alameda  County,  with  which 
there  is  a  farm  connected.  The  golden  sands  of 
California  and  the  absence  of  severe  winters  do 
not  keep  poverty  and  age  from  every  door,  nor 
does  u  generous  hospitality  make  public  charity 
unnecessary. 

This  section  of  country  is  noted  for  its 
cherries  and  currants,  but  nearly  every  variety  of 
fruit  is  extensively  cultivated.  One  of  the  fine 
orchards  on  the  right  before  reaching  the  sta- 
tion, has  100  acres  of  Almonds,  and  200  acres  of 
other  fruits.  The  owner  constructed  private 
water- works  at  an  expense  of  315,000. 

San  Leandro,—lo  miles  from  San  Frai  - 
cisco,  was  formerly  a  county-seat.  It  has  a 
population  of  1,000,  a  large  factory  for  wagons 
and  gang-plows,  a  Presbyterian,  a  Catholic  and 
a  Methodist  Church,  stores  and  saloons.  In  the 
mountains  opposite,  and  on  a  creek  of  the  same 
name,  is  located  the  reservoir  of  the  Oakland 
water-works.  The  water  is  collected  from  the 
winter  floods  and  is  65  feet  deep. 

Mel  rose — is  11  miles  from  San  Francisco.  Be- 
fore reaching  the  station  and  after  crossing  the 
San  Leandro  Creek,  there  may  be  seen  on  the 
right,  nestled  in  a  beautiful  vale  at  the  foot  of 
the  mountains,  the  largest  and  best  apportioned 
Protestant  Seminary  for  girls  of  the  Pacific 
Coast,  Mills  Seminary.  The  buildings  were 
erected  at  a  cost  of  about  $100,000,  $30,000  of 
which  was  contributed  by  public-spirited  indi- 
viduals. The  65  surrounding  acres,  with  their 
oaks,  sycamores,  alders,  willows,  and  laurel  or 
bay  tree ;  the  orchards,  lawns  and  flower-beds,  the 
inspiring  views,  combining  the  fruitful  plain, 
the  water  and  the  mountains  beyond  ;  a  climate, 
always  stimulating  to  mental  effort — in  short,  the 
correspondence  of  attractions  and  advantages, 
without  and  within,  make  this  a  point  of  inter- 


S14 


est  to  all  who  desire  to  see  the  progress  of  edu- 
cation in  one  of  nature's  most  gifted  spots. 

Near  the  race-track  on  the  left,  are  several 
buildings  with  large,  square  chimneys,  used  to 
smelt  and  refine  gold  and  silver,  while  on  the  right 
is  a  fuse  factory.  The  town  of  Alamed?,  is  seen 
on  the  left,  almost  hidden  by  live  oaks.  A 
branch  railroad  connects  it  with  this  station,  and 
the  "  local  "  trains  of  Oakland. 

Between  Melrose  and  the  next  station,  we  pass 
Fruit  Vale,  a  station  on  the  Alameda  Road, 
and  a  spot  of  surpassing  loveliness.  The  elegant 
lawns,  and  beautiful  mansions  are  almost  wholly 
concealed  by  the  luxuriant  foliage. 

Brooklyn — 9  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
the  point  of  departure  for  the  "local"  trains 
that  will  be  seen  again  at  the  Oakland  wharf. 
It  is  now  Bast  Oakland,  a  delightful  suburb  of 
San  Francisco. 

The  land  rises  gently  toward  the  foot  hills, 
almost  from  the  water's  edge.  Since  it  has  be- 
come a  corporate  part  of  the  City  of  Oakland, 
it  has  made  rapid  improvements  in  the  opening 
of  new  and  well  macadamized  streets  and  the 


erection  of  fine  residences.  The  "local"  train 
passes  directly  through  Oakland  to  Oakland 
Point,  and  making  six  stops  on  the  way.  Be- 
fore reaching  the  next  station  through  trains 
will  cross  the  track  of  the  Alameda  Branch,  that 
of  the  South  Pacific  Coast  Narrow  Guage  Bail- 
road.  Both  are  for  the  accommodation  of  local 
travel,  and  connect  Alameda  with  Oakland  and 
San  Francisco.  From  the  abundance  of  the 
evergreen  oaks,  one  may  conclude  that  pleasure 
parties  will  find  there  a  balmy  retreat  whether 
beneath  the  clear  sky,  or  sheltered  from  the 
afternoon  winds,  and  it  has  always  been  a  pop- 
ular picnic  resort.  On  Sunday,  the  boats  and 
trains  are  crowded  with  thousands  seeking  rec- 
reation and  enjoyment  there.  Brooklyn  is  a 
splendid  home  resort  for  travelers. 

Oakland — is  2  miles  from  Brooklyn.  The 
train  halts  at  the  foot  of  Market  Street,  where 
carriages  may  be  had  to  any  part  of  the  city. 

Oakland  Point  and  the  railroad  shops  will 
soon  be  crowded  out  of  mind  by  the  great  mole 
in  the  bay,  the  spacious  depot,  and  the  end  of 
the  journey. 


The  California  Pacific  Railroad- 


This  road  in  its  several  branches  includes 
115.44  miles,  from  Vallejo  to  Suisun,  Davisville, 
Sacramento  and  Knight's  Landing,  and  from 
Napa  Junction  near  Vallejo  to  Calistoga.  That 
portion  of  the  road  between  Sacramento  and 
Suisun  which  forms  a  part  of  the  C.  P.  Over- 
land route  has  been  described  on  another  page. 

Connection  is  made  on  the  Northern  Kailway 
by  a  ferryboat  from  Vallejo  Junction,  near  Port 
Costa.  At  South  Vallejo  passengers  take  cars 
for  VAHLEJO,  one  mile  from  South  Vallejo. 

The  pronunciation  of  this  Spanish  word  is 
Val-yay-ho,  and  the  town  was  named  in  honor 
of  an  old  family  still  residing  there. 

The  station  for  the  town  is  sometimes  called 
North  Vallejo,  to  distinguish  it  from  the  new 
town  that  has  grown  around  the  railroad  ter- 
minus, one  mile  south. 

Vallejo  was  for  a  while  the  capital  of  the  State. 
It  has  now  a  population  of  about  2,500,  and 
derives  much  of  its  business  from  the  United 
States  Navy  Yard  on  Mare  Island. 

It  has  a  Methodist,  a  Presbyterian,  a  Baptist 
and  a  Boman  Catholic  Church,  and  South 
Vallejo  has  also  a  Congregational  Church. 
Vallejo  has  a  stage  to  Benicia,  eight  miles,  and 
daily  steamer  to  San  Francisco,  in  addition  to 
the  ferryboat  that  connects  three  times  a  day 
with  trains  on  the  Northern  Railway. 

The  wharves  at  South  Vallejo  are  in  deep 
water,  and  at  them  grain  brought  from  the 
valley  north,  is  loaded  direct  for  Liverpool  and 


other  parts.  A  large  elevator — the  only  one 
ever  erected  on  the  coast,  was  blown  down  dur- 
ing a  southeast  gale.  Vallejo  has  two  news- 
papers, the  Chronicle,  a  weekly,  and  the  Inde- 
pendent, a  daily. 

After  leaving  Vallejo  to  go  northward,  the 
Orphan's  Home,  under  the  auspices  of  the  I.  O. 
G.  T.  will  be  noticed  on  the  hill  at  the  right  of 
the  road — an  institution  as  useful  as  its  situation 
is  commanding. 

Farther  on,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  road, 
are  the  grounds  and  race-track  of  the  Agricul- 
tural Society,  and  seven  miles  from  Vallejo  and 
38  from  San  Francisco  is  NAPA  JUNCTION. 

Here  the  road  branches — the  one  to  the  right 
crossing  the  hills  to  Suisun.  This  was  formerly 
the  direct  road  to  Sacramento  and  is  the  main 
line  of  the  road.  It  is  used  for  some  of  the 
freight  coming  from  the  west  side  of  the  Sacra- 
mento Valley,  and  also  for  passenger  trains 
for  local  travel  or  to  connect  Napa  Valley  with 
the  overland  travel  on  the  C.  P.  Railroad.  Be- 
tween the  Junction  and  Suisun  there  are  only 
two  stations. 

Creston»  a  flag  station,  and 

Cordelia  or  Bridgeport,  8  miles  from  the 
Junction.  Cordelia  is  the  outlet  for  Green  Val- 
ley, a  valley  nestled  among  the  hills  of  the 
Coast  Range,  in  which  the  earliest  fruits  and 
vegetables  found  in  the  San  Francisco  markets 
are  usually  grown.  The  whole  distance  from 
the  Junction  to  Suisun  is  12. 8  miles.  Suisun  is 


316 


51.11  miles  from  San  Francisco  by  this  route 
and  49.5  via  Benicia.  • 

Tlie  Napa  Valley 

is  one  of  the  loveliest,  best  improved,  and  most 
fruitful  sections  of  the  State.  Enclosed  be- 
tween two  ridges  of  the  Coast  Range,  one  of 
which  separates  it  from  the  Sacramento  and 
the  other  from  the  Sonoma  Valley,  and  above 
Calistoga,  Mount  Saint  Helena  stands  like  a 
great  sentinel  across  the  head  of  the  valley. 
The  soil  is  among  the  best  in  the  State,  and  fruit 
growing  extensively  and  successfully  practiced. 

The  climate  is  well  tempered  and  the  season 
rare  when  crops  fail. 

The  first  station  north  from  the  Junction  is 
called 

Thompson. — from  the  owner  of  the  ranch 
and  orchard,  which  will  strike  the  observer  as 
closely  related  to  the  perfect  arrangement  and 
culture  of  the  farms  in  Chester  or  Cumberland 
Valley  of  Pennsy  Ivan  via,  and  a  closer  inspection 
would  reveal  one  of  the  most  convenient  and 
complete  farm-houses  in  the  country.  Suscol, 
a  landing-place  and  ferry  on  the  Napa  Eiver,  i« 
near  by.  The  next  station  is  4.49  miles  farther 
north,  and  called 

Napa, — 46^  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is  a 
town  of  great  loveliness,  with  a  population  of 
5,000,  set  in  homes  embossed  in  fruit  and  floweis. 
It  is  not  surpassed  for  beauty  of  situation  in 
the  State,  and  rivaled  by  San  Jose  only.  It  is 
at  the  head  of  navigation  for  light  draft  on  the 
Napa  River,  and  near  it  is  located  the  new 
Branch  Insane  Asylum,  erected  at  a  cost  of  more 
than  a  million  of  dollars.  The  public  schools 
rank  high,  and  there  are  also  four  colleges  and 
seminaries  of  higher  order.  The  Register  is  a 
daily  and  weekly  newspaper,  and  the  Rfpnrtfr  a 
weekly.  It  has  two  good  hotels,  the  "United 
States,  ""The  Palace,"  many  stores  of  high  order, 
and  good  banking  facilities.  In  no  portion  of 
the  State  is  society  more  stable  and  cultivated. 
The  churches  are  imposing  and  well  attended. 
The  Presbyterians  have  here  the  largest,  most 
convenient  and  tasteful  house  of  worship  out- 
side of  San  Francisco  and  Oakland,  and  the 


Methodists,  Baptists  and  Roman  Catholics  have 
good  houses  also.  Daily  stages  connect  with 
the  morning  train  for  Sonoma.  Above  Napa, 
5.45  miles,  is 

Oak  Knoll, — near  which  is  hidden  in  a  park 
of  evergreen  oaks  the  pleasant  residence  of  the 
late  R.  B.  Woodward,  Esq.,  one  of  the  most 
enterprising  and  public-spirited  men  of  Cali- 
fornia, near  which  may  be  seen  his  orchard, 
one  of  the  largest  and  best  in  the  county. 

YountviUe — Is  3.45  miles  farther  north,  a  vil- 
lage with  about  300  inhabitants,  called  after  one 
of  the  early  settlers.  Near  the  depot  is  a  large 
vinery.  On  the  hill-sides  are  numerous  vineyards, 
and  in  the  village  a  Baptist  and  a  Congregational 
Church. 

St.  Helena — is  a  village  of  about  500  inhab- 
itants, surrounded  with  ranches  where  people  of 
culture  live  in  luxury,  and  two  miles  distant 
are  the  White -Sulphur  Springs.  Stages  for  the 
Springs  connect  with  every  train,  and  for  Knox- 
ville  in  Lake  County,  with  every  morning  train 
from  San  Francisco.  Presbyterians,  Baptists, 
and  Methodists  have  churches  here.  The  valley 
grows  narrower  until 

Calistoga  —  is  reached,  with  a  population 
of  about  500,  and  two  hotels  —  one  the  "Hot 
Springs." 

Here  are  hot  and  mud  baths,  and  from  Calis- 
toga are  numerous  pleasant  drives,  especially  to 
the  Petrified  Forest,  five  miles  distant,  on  the  top 
of  the  ridge  lying  toward  the  ocean,  and  in  a 
sunken  part  of  the  high  table-land  where  there 
was  evidently  a  lake  after  trees  had  attained 
an  enormous  growth,  and  long  after  this  the 
waters  of  the  lake  discharged  by  some  sudden 
rupture  of  the  surrounding  wall.  The  mountain 
views,  hunting,  fishing  and  other  attractions, 
make  Calistoga  a  popular  resort,  and  the  recent 
discovery  of  many  quicksilver  and  silver  mines  has 
given  a  fresh  impetus  to  the  business  of  the  town. 

The  population  is  about  700,  but  varies  with 
the  summer  freighting  to  Lake  County.  Foss's 
line  of  stages  leaves  every  morning  during  the 
summer  for  the  Geysers,  and  stages  leave  daily 
on  arrival  of  morning  train  from  San  Francisco 
for  Bartlett's  and  other  resorts  of  Lake  County. 


Branch  from  Davisville  to  Knight's  Landing. 


At  Davisville  there  is  a  branch  from  the  main 
stem  northward  to  Woodland  and  Knight's 
Landing.  This  branch  was  built  to  Marysville, 
but  several  miles  of  it  across  the  tule  land  be- 
tween the  two  places  were  destroyed  by  the 
floods  of  1872,  and  there  was  not  sufficient  in- 
ducements to  rebuild  it.  Finally  the  unused 
track  was  removed. 

Merritt's — is  a  station  5  miles  north  of  Davis- 
ville, and 

Woodland — 23  miles  from  Sacramento,  and 


86  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is  the  largest  town 
in  Yalo  County.  It  is  in  a  fertile  region,  has  a 
population  of  1,200,  a  Congregational,  a  Metho- 
dist Episcopal,  a  Christian  Church,  and  a 
Catholic  Church,  a  weekly  newspaper,  and  a 
public  Academy,  or  Western  College.  The 
grand  oaks  surrounding  the  place  make  it  at- 
tractive for  picnics,  camp-meetings  and  other 
occasional  gatherings. 

Curtis — is  a  mere  side-track,  and 
Knight's   Lawling — 95    miles    from    San 


317 


Francisco,  and  32  miles  from  Sacramento,  is 
the  terminus  of  this  branch.  It  is  on  the  south 
bank  of  the  Sacramento  River,  and  at  this  point 


steamers  carrying  freight  and  occasionally  pas- 
sengers connect  for  landings  on  the  upper  part 
of  the  river. 


The  Northern  Railway. 


That  portion  of  this  road  between  Port  Costa 
and  Suisun  has  been  described  elsewhere  as 
part  of  the  C.  P.  Overland  route.  Between 
Suisun  and  the  Northern  Junction,  the  Califor- 
nia Pacific  supplies  a  gap  in  the  roads.  It  is 
leased  to  and  operated  by  the  Central  Pacific, 
and  one  continuous  line  formed  from  Sacra- 
mento or  San  Francisco  to  that  portion  of  the 
Sacramento  Valley  lying  west  of  the  river.  By 
this  route  the  best  settled  portion  of  Colusa 
County  finds  easy  and  direct  access  to  the  cities 
on  the  river  or  the  bay,  and  Bartlett  and  Allen 
Springs  in  Lake  County,  their  best  route  to  the 
same  places.  We  reach  Yafa,  27.53  miles, 
Black's  33.41  and  Dunnigan  40.93  miles  from 
Sacramento,  all  towns  in  an  agricultural  region, 
each  with  several  stores,  saloons,  etc. ,  but  of  no 
general  importance. 

Harrington,  45.97, 

Arbiickle,  51.14, 

Berlin,  55  20,  and 

Macy,  56.13  miles  from  Sacramento,  are  all 
email  places  in  an  agricultural  region. 

Williams,  61.86  is  the  station  for  Colusa 
(City),  eleven  miles  east,  on  the  Sacramento 
river.  Stages  for  Bartlett  Spring*  and  other 
points  in  Lake  county  leave  Williams  every 
morning ;  and  stages  for  Colusa  make  close  con- 


nection  daily  with  both  passenger  and  mixed 
trains. 

Colusa  is  the  county  seat  of  Colusa  county — 
which  is  one  of  the  largest  wheat-producing  coun- 
ties in  the  state.  The  town  has  a  population  of 
almost  3,000,  and  is  connected  by  daily  stages 
with  Marysville ;  and  by  another  line  to  Jacinto, 
Princeton  and  Chioo.  Jacinto,  in  this  county,  is 
the  home  of  Dr.  Glenn,  the  largest  wheat-grower 
in  California. 

Maxwell,  70.71  miles  from  Sacramento, 

Delavau,  75.95  miles  from  Sacramento, 

Nor  man,  79.61, 

Logandale,  81.97,  are  all  unimportant  sta- 
tions. 

Willows,  87.54  miles  from  Sacramento  and 
150.87  from  San  Francisco,  is  the  present  ter- 
minus of  this  road.  It  is  wholly  a  railroad  town, 
but  has  sprung  up  as  though  sure  of  an  impor- 
tant future,  and  even  aspires  to  rivalry  of  Co- 
lusa. 

The  extension  of  this  road  will  be  northward 
to  Tehama,  where  the  Oregon  division  of  the 
Central  Pacific  crosses  the  Sacramento  river. 
About  forty  miles  are  yet  to  be  built  to  complete 
this  connection.  When  this  gap  is  closed  San 
Francisco  will  have  a  direct  line  to  Redding  for 
all  travel  to  northern  California  and  Oregon. 


318 


The  South  Pacific  Coast  Railroad. 


(NARROW  GAUGE.) 


A.  E.  DAVIS,  Pres. ;  THOS.  CARTER,  Supt. 

General  Offices,  20  and  21  Nevada  Block,  San 
Francisco. 

This  road  connects  San  Francisco  by  ferry 
with  Oakland  and  Alameda,  extending  thence  to 
Santa  Cruz,  a  distance  of  80.8  miles.  The  depot 
in  San  Francisco  is  at  the  foot  of  Market  street, 
adjoining  the  C.  P.  R.  R.  depot. 

The  depot  in  Oakland  is  on  Thirteenth  Street, 
near  Webster.  It  is  farther  up-town  than  the 
depot  of  the  C.  P.,  but  not  so  near  the  princi- 
pal stores  and  public  buildings,  and  not  so 
convenient  to  the  numerous  lines  of  horse- 
cars. 

Alameda,  like  Oakland,  is  a  pleasant  suburb 
of  San  Francisco.  For  a  long  time  the  higher 
ground  of  Oakland  was  more  attractive,  but  of 
late  Alameda  has  grown  rapidly.  The  soil — a 
light,  sandy  loam — and  its  mild  climate  make  it  a 
paradise  for  flowers  ;  and  its  bathing  facilities — 
the  best  in  the  vicinity  of  San  Francisco — attract 
to  it  large  numbers  from  all  the  surrounding 
towns.  It  has  a  population  of  about  5,000 ; 
Presbyterian,  Methodist,  Episcopal,  Congrega- 
tional, Baptist  and  Catholic  churches,  several 
public  gardens,  and  many  comfortable  and  hand- 
some residences.  The  through  trains  stop  at 
Alameda  Point,  Pacific  avenue  and  Park  street. 
Local  trains,  eveiy  hour  during  the  day,  stop  at 
Alameda  Point,  Pacific  avenue,  Second  avenue, 
Third  avenue,  Schutzen  Park,  Morton  street,  Chest- 
nut street,  Park  street,  Versailles  avenue  and  High 
street. 

West  San  Leandro,  West  San  Lorenzo, 
Russell's  and  Mount  Eden  are  all  signal 
stations,  and,  except  the  last  one,  all  are  named 
for  towns  on  the  line  of  the  old  Overland  route 
(Central  Pacific),  about  a  mile  from  which  this 
road  runs.  The  course  is  parallel  to  the  Central 
Pacific  and  its  branch  from  Niles  to  San  Jose, 
but  nearer  to  the  bay. 

Alvarado,  24.4  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
a  village  of  about  500  people.  Near  it  are  ex- 
tensive works  for  evaporating  the  water  of  the 
bay  and  supplying  salt.  Huge  piles  of  salt  may 
be  seen  below  the  town  on  the  left.  Another 
important  industry  is  the  manufacture  of  beet 
sugar.  Hall's  is  a  side-track,  and 

Neivark,  29.6  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
a  thriving  village  with  a  landing  on  the  bav.  It 
was  laid  out  when  the  road  was  projected 

Moivry's  is  a  signal  station. 

Alviso  is  a  village  at  the  southern  extremifv 
of  San  Francisco  bay,  and  the  center  of  straw- 


berry culture,  and  ships  by  steamer  to  San  Fran- 
cisco sometimes  twenty  tons  of  berries  a  day, 
Wild  fowl  are  abundant  during  the  winter  season 
all  along  the  bay,  and  Alvarado  and  Alviso  are 
convenient  points  for  hunting  them.  A  stage 
connects  with  San  Jose. 

Agnew's  is  a  signal  station. 

Santa  Clara  and  San  Jose  are  about  four 
miles  nearer  San  Francisco  by  this  road  than  by 
the  Southern  Pacific  northern  division.  For 
these  places  see  pages  281-2. 

Lovelady's  is  a  signal  station,  about  midway 
between  San  Jose  and  the  Coast  Mouutairs, 
which  are  sensibly  near  it. 

Los  Gatos  is  a  village  of  nearly  500  people, 
with  a  flouring-mill,  lime-kiln  and  stone-quarry 
furnishing  the  chief  industries.  The  climate  is 
delightful,  and  a  slight  elevation,  enabling  one  to 
overlook  the  magnificent  valley,  supplies  a  scene 
of  which  the  eye  should  never  tire. 

Ths  route  across  tl/se  mountains  is  one  of  the 
most  charming  and  picturesque  in  all  the  state. 
John  Muir  points  out  the  fact  that  the  Coast 
Mountains,  being  older  than  the  Sierras  and 
better  finished,  abound  with  choice  bits  of  pict- 
uresque scenery  almost  wanting  in  the  loftier 
range. 

Leaving  Los  Gatos,  the  road  follows  up  the 
canon,  through  which  flows  a  creek  of  the  same 
name. 

Alma,  58.3  miles  from  San  Francisco.  This 
is  the  old  village  of  Lexington. 

Wright's,  62.6  miles  from  San  Francisco,  was 
for  a  long  time  the  terminus  of  the  road,  while 
the  tunnel,  6,450  feet  long,  was  being  run.  At 
this  a  number  of  Chinamen  lost  their  lives  from  an 
explosion  of  coal-oil  gas  encountered  in  working. 

Glemvood,  66,  and  Dougherty's  Mill,  70.2 
miles  from  San  Francisco,  are  unimportant  sta- 
tions. The  road,  on  reaching  the  western  slope 
of  the  mountains,  follows  the  Zayante  Creek  and 
then  the  San  Lorenzo  river  to  Felton,  the  Big 
Trees  and  Santa  Cruz. 

Felton,  73.7,  is  an  admirable  place  from  which 
to  set  out  for  hunting  bear,  deer,  wild- cats  and 
lions,  or  for  trout-fishing.  It  is  principally  a 
lumbering  camp. 

Big  Trees,  74.5  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
a  charming  grove  of  redwoods,  the  sequoia  sem- 
pervirens,  and  was  once  the  camp  of  General 
Fremont.  Many  of  the  trees  are  large  speci- 
mens of  the  redwood,  and  one  is  said  to  be  300 
fppt  hisrh  and  20  feet  in  diameter.  The  grove  is 
well  worth  seeing. 


319 


The  ride  down  the  San  Lorenzo  river  to  Santa 
Cruz  is  one  of  the  most  charming  in  the  state.  The 
California  Powder  Works  are  scattered  for  a 
mile  or  two  along  the  river  above  the  town  of 
Santa  Cruz,  and,  combined  with  the  wild,  pict- 
uresque scenery  of  forest,  hill  and  river,  and 
ocean,  the  view  is  enchanting  to  every  beholder. 
It  can  be  most  enjoyed  by  driving  along  the 
well-graded  road  from  Santa  Cruz  to  Felton. 

Santa  Cruz,  79.8  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
is  the  county  seat  of  Santa  Cruz  county.  It  is 
connected  with  Pescadero  by  a  tri-weekly  stage, 
and  with  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  by  a 
narrow-gauge  railroad  to  Pajaro.  The  popula- 
tion is  about  5,000.  It  has  long  been  the  favor- 
ite sea-side  resort  for  San  Francisco  and  northern 
California,  because  of  its  long,  clean,  sandy  beach, 
its  beautiful  drives,  its  good  hunting  and  fishing, 
and  its  mild  climate. 

It  is  on  the  north  side  of  Monterey  Bay,  pecu- 
liarly sheltered  from  wind  and  fog,  but  enjoys  a 
fine  view  of  the  ocean,  with  its  passing  steamers 
and  sailing  craft.  It  has  charming  society,  and 


Congregational,  Methodist  Episcopal,  Baptist, 
Catholic,  and  Methodist  Episcopal  (South) 
Churches.  It  has  extensive  tanneries,  lime- 
quarries  and  kilns,  and  a  variety  of  manufact- 
ures. Mosses  in  great  variety  may  be  gathered 
on  the  beach,  and  north  of  the  town  there  are 
many  interesting  rocks,  worn  by  the  waves  into 
fantastic  shapes.  On  the  Terry  &  Baldwin  Ranch 
there  is  a  remarkable  natural  bridge,  formed  by 
the  encroachings  of  the  sea. 

All  along  the  coast,  from  Pescadero  to  Santa 
Cruz  and  Monterey,  there  are  formations  of  the 
coast  that  wash  pebbles  in  great  variety  to  the 
beach,  and  Santa  Cruz  boasts  of  one  of  the  finest. 

About  nine  miles  north  is  a  magnetic  spring, 
in  the  midst  of  delightful  scenery,  with  a  well- 
kept  cottage,  and  therefore  a  popular  resort  for 
invalids. 

The  Pacific  House,  and  other  hotels,  are  good, 
and  in  all  respects  Santa  Cruz  is  a  charming  re- 
sort. It  is  less  than  four  hours'  ride  from  San 
Francisco  by  the  South  Pacific  railroad. 


North  Pacific  Coast  Railroad. 

(NARROW  GAUGE.) 


This  road  is  now  completed  from  Saucelito,  its 
southern  terminus,  in  Marin  County,  to  the  north 
side  of  the  Russian  River,  80J  miles  in  length, 
with  a  branch  from  San  Quentin  to  the  ' '  Junc- 
tion," 17  miles  from  San  Francisco.  Nearly  all 
passengers  take  the  route  via  San  Quentin  and  San 
Rafael,  on  the  spacious,  elegant,  and  fast  steam- 
ers "San  Rafael"  and  "Saucelito,"  from  the 
foot  of  Market  Street.  These  popular  boats  are 
owned  by  the  railroad  company. 

The  railroad  company  own  barges  on  which 
they  transport  all  their  freight  cars  to  and  from 
San  Francisco  without  breaking  bulk,  but  pas- 
sengers by  this  route  take  the  boats  of  the 
Saucelito  Land  and  Ferry  Company.  These 
boats  also  leave  the  foot  of  Market  Street. 

The  branch  via  Saucelito  affords  many  fine 
views  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco. 

The  road  passes  through  Maria  and  into 
Sonoma  County,  and  the  trip  over  it  is  more  di- 
versified than  any  other  of  equal  length  in  Cali- 
fornia. From  the  beauty  of  the  Golden  Gate  and 
the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  the  road  skirts  the  base 
of  Mt.  Tamalpais,  and  passes  through  a  wild, 
picturesque  mountain  region,  down  a  beautiful 
canon  filled  with  trees,  babbling  water  and 


trout,  through  rolling  hills,  the  great  dairy  re- 
gion of  the  coast,  along  the  shores  of  Tomales 
Bay,  through  fertile  grain  fields,  and  at  last  ends 
in  the  dark  forests  of  the  red-woods,  where  the 
Russian  River  has  broken  asunder  the  coast 
mountains  and  forced  its  way  to  the  ocean. 

During  the  summer  two  through  trains  are  run 
daily,  and  during  the  winter  one  train,  Sundays 
excepted.  In  summer  a  Sunday  excursion  train 
leaves  San  Francisco  via  Saucelito,  and  returns 
in  the  evening. 

Between  San  Francisco  and  San  Rafael  eight 
round  trips  are  made  daily. 

Leaving  San  Francisco  via  San  Rafael,  one 
passes  under  the  guns  of  Alcatraz  Island,  which 
stand  a  sentinel  at  the  Golden  Gate,  and  rounds 
Angel  Island,  which  is  separated  from  the  main- 
land by  Raccoon  Straits,  and  takes  in  on  a  clear 
day,  while  passing,  the  cities  of  Oakland  and 
Berkeley  and  the  Contra  Costa  hills  beyond  them, 
and  more  than  the  eye  can  hold,  until  he  reaches 

San,  Quentin,  11.5  miles  from  San  Francis- 
co. It  is  situated  on  a  point  of  the  same  name 
on  the  west  shore  of  San  Pablo  Bay,  a  division  of 
the  Bay  of  San  Francisco.  Its  chief  importance 
is  derived  from  the  fact  of  its  being  the  residence 


320 


of  the  Lieutenant-Governor  of  the  State,  who  ex- 
officio  has  charge  of  the  State's  convicts.  There 
are  usually  from  800  to  1500  of  these  persons  kept 
here  at  hard  labor.  The  work-shops  and  other 
buildings  are  on  the  left  of  the  railroad  ;  and 
on  the  left,  and  directly  ahead,  is  Mt.  Tamalpais, 
the  loftiest  peak  in  this  region.  A  wash-out  near 
the  summit  looks  like  a  shute  for  logs. 

Here  passengers  exchange  the  steamers  for  the 
cars,  neat  and  comfortable,  but  not  so  commo- 
dious as  those  of  a  broad-gauge  road.  In  a  few 
minutes'  ride  one  will  be  at  the  town  of 

Kan  Rafael  (San  Ra-fell),  14  miles  from  San 
Francisco. 

It  is  the  county-seat  of  Marin  County,  and 
situated  in  a  valley  of  the  same  name,  about  a 
mile  in  width  and  four  in  length.  It  is  built 
upon  the  former  site  of  the  old  Jesuitical  mission 
of  San  Rafael,  founded  in  1824.  The  town-site 
is  elevated,  and  on  gently  rolling  ground,  thus 
assuring  fine  views  of  the  bay  on  the  east  and  a 
favorable  sewerage.  As  the  soil  is  a  loose  gravel 
or  sandy  loam,  there  is  no  malarial  influence  such 
as  renders  many  other  favored  localities  unheal- 
thy. It  is  completely  sheltered  from  the  ocean 
winds  and  fogs  by  the  surrounding  mountains, 
and  the  climate  is  mild  and  even,  the  mercury 
rarely  falling  below  40°  in  winter  or  rising  above 
90°  in  summer.  The  water  brought  from  Lagu- 
nitas  Creek,  750  feet  above  the  town,  on  Mt. 
Tamalpais,  is  pure  and  soft.  For  location, 
climatic  influences,  and  picturesque  scenery,  no 
place  in  this  part  of  the  State  can  equal  it.  It  is 
quite  a  sanitarium  for  many  in  San  Francisco 
who  suffer  from  the  cold  winds  and  damp  fogs. 

Many  of  the  residences  are  elegant  and  costly. 
The  Court  House  was  erected  at  an  expense  of 
$60, 000.  Two  weekly  newspapers  are  published, 
the  Journal  and  Herald.  The  town  is  supplied 
with  gas,  and  the  roads  in  the  vicinity  are  good 
and  afford  most  charming  drives. 

This  is  the  best  point  from  which  to  make  the 

Ascent  of  Mt.  Tamalpais. 

It  is  nearer  than  Saucelito,  the  trail  is  better, 
and  the  variety  of  views  greater.  Horses  may  be 
procured  at  $2.50  and  $3  per  day.  The  start 
should  be  made  as  near  daylight  as  possible,  and 
the  whole  trip  may  be  accomplished  in  about 
eight  hours.  The  height  of  the  western  summit, 
the  highest  point,  is  2606  feet.  The  view  em1- 
braces  the  ocean,  the  Golden  Gate,  the  bay,  San 
Francisco,  Oakland,  and  many  other  towns,  and 
is  in  some  respects  more  diversified  and  prettier 
than  the  view  from  Mt.  Diablo.  The  latter  is  far 
more  extensive.  San  Rafael  will  also  be  the  ter- 
minus of  the  Petaluma  branch  of  the  San  Fran- 
cisco and  North  Pacific  R.  R. ,  the  main  line  ex- 
tening  from  Donohue  to  Cloverdale.  This  branch 
forms  part  of  the  short  route  to  the  Geysers. 
Junction,  17  miles  from  San  Francisco, 


Here  the  branch  unites  with  the  main  road  via 
Saucelito.  The  distance  from  San  Francisco  is 
17  miles  by  either  route. 

Saucelito  is  six  miles  from  San  Francisco. 

The  stations  between  Saucelito  and  Junction 
are  the  "  shops"  of  the  company,  Lyford's, 
Summit,  Corte,  Madera,  and  Tamalpais.  The 
latter  is  at  the  foot  of  Mt.  Tamalpais,  but  is 
merely  an  accommodation  station,  without  a 
building  near  except  the  beautiful  residence  of 
Mr.  Kent,  a  retired  merchant  of  Chicago.  A 
trail  leads  to  the  summit  of  the  mountain  from 
his  house.  It  was  constructed  at  his  own  ex- 
pense, and  is  not  open  to  the  public. 

Fairfax,  18.5  miles,  is  a  popular  picnic  re- 
sort. Leaving  these  grounds,  the  road  curves  to 
the  right  and  begins  ascending  to  reach  the  sum- 
mit of  White's  Hill.  The  grade  is  from  90  to 
120  feet  to  the  mile,  and  the  curves  in  some 
places  20  degrees.  At  one  point  the  road 
doubles  back  upon  itself,  so  that,  after  traversing 
three  quarters  of  a  mile,  the  tracks  are  not  a 
hundred  yards  apart.  At  no  place  so  near  San 
Francisco  can  there  be  had  as  good  an  idea  of 
the  mountainous  regions  of  California  as  in  cross- 
ing this  hill  and  descending  to  tide-water  on  the 
west.  The  crookedness  of  the  road  as  it  curves 
around  one  and  another  of  the  ravines  is  ex- 
tremely interesting. 

The  railroad  ascends  on  the  north  side  of  Ross 
Valley,  and  as  one  climbs  up  he  may  see  on  the 
left,  far  above  him,  the  wagon-road  from  San 
Rafael  to  Olcma,  and  directly  under  this  wagon- 
road  the  cars  pass  through  a  tunnel  400  feet  long 
with  an  altitude  of  565  feet. 

At  the  summit  the  road  descends  into  the  val- 
ley of  San  Geronimo  Creek  to  a  station  of  the 
same  name,  3  miles  from  which  is  Nicasio,  a 
small  village  in  a  dairy  region.  Lagunitas, 
another  small  station,  marks  a  creek  of  the  same 
name  flowing  from  the  north-west  side  of  Mt. 
Tamalpais.  The  valley  has  a  large  variety  of 
wild  flowers  in  the  spring,  and  at  all  seasons  an 
abundance  of  California  shrubbery,  such  as  the 
Ceanothus,  Manzanita,  Madrona,  Oaks,  Buckeyes, 
and  some  Red-woods,  but  none  of  the  Douglass 
spruce  or  firs  peculiar  to  high  altitudes. 

As  the  canon  narrows  the  scenery  becomes 
wilder,  and  the  road  follows  "Paper  Mill" 
Creek,  as  it  is  called,  from  the  "Pioneer  Paper 
Mill,"  the  first  mill  of  the  kind  on  the  Coast,  at 

Taylorville,  31^  miles  from  San  Francisco. 

The  creek  abounds  in  trout.  Near  Taylorville 
is  a  favoritq  camping-ground  to  which  hundreds 
go  every  season  to  exchange  their  close  walls  in 
the  city  for  the  freedom  of  the  hills  and  woods 
and  brooks. 

Tocaloma  (Grove),  33.5  miles,  is  a  small 
station  in  a  dairy  region  two  miles  from  the  town 
of  Olema.  A  stage  runs  from  the  town  to  the 
trains.  The  creek  is  crossed  and  recrossed,  and 


321 


one  embankment  is  1830  feet  long  ;  but  these  are 
soon  passed,  and  one  can  look  to  the  left  and  a 
little  behind  him,  as  the  road  is  fairly  in  the  val- 
ley, and  see  the  town  of 

Olema,  38f  miles  from  San  Francisco.  On 
the  platform  will  be  seen  a  large  number  of  butter- 
boxes.  In  winter  passenger  trains  stop  for  dinner. 
Tri- weekly  stages  leave  for  Bolinas,  13  miles  south. 

The  general  course  of  the  road  is  now  more 
northerly,  to  Tomales  Bay,  and  one  quickly 
changes  from  the  trout  streams  of  the  mountains 
to  enjoy  a  "  breath  of  the  salt  sea  gale." 

The  road  passes  along  the  northern  side  of  the 
bay  for  about  13  miles,  part  of  the  time  on  the 
shore  and  part  on  piles.  The  bay  is  only  about 
a  mile  wide,  and  20  miles  long,  and  very  shallow. 

Oysters  have  been  planted  in  it,  but  the  water 
has  proved  too  salt  for  their  successful  cul- 
tivation. The  bay  supplies  a  large  number  of 
fish,  and  in  it  are  found  an  abundance  of  smooth, 
hard-shell  clams,  the  only  source  of  this  variety 
of  shell-fish  for  the  San  Francisco  market.  All 
kinds  of  sea  fowl  are  abundant  during  the  sea- 
son. Along  the  bay  are  several  small  stations — 
Wharf  Point,  Millerton,  Marshall's,  and  Hamlet 
/—from  which  butter,  fish,  and  game  are  shipped. 

After  passing  Hamlet,  the  road  curves  to  the 
right,  crossing  an  arm  of  the  bay,  or  Tomales 
Creek,  and  follows  up  the  west  bank  of  this  and 
winds  around  the  hills  to 

Tomales,  55f  miles. 

The  town  has  a  population  of  only  150,  but  the 
country  is  thickly  settled  by  intelligent  dairy- 
and  ranch  men.  For  a  year  and  a  half  this  was 
the  northern  terminus  of  the  road,  further  pro- 
gress being  delayed  by  the  wall  of  solid  rock 
seen  in  the  hills  to  the  north.  Here  the  company 
have  a  large  warehouse  for  storing  grain  and 
freight.  In  clear  weather  Mt.  St.  Helena  can  be 
seen  in  the  north-east,  and  east  and  south-east  are 
the  snow-capped  Sierras. 

Soon  after  leaving  this  station,  the  road  passes 
through  the  longest  tunnel  on  the  road,  1700 
feet  in  length,  reaches  Clark  Summit,  and,  de- 
scending, crosses  the  Estero  Americano,  on  a 
high  trestle,  and  enters  Sonoma  County. 

Valley  Ford,  62^-  miles,  is  a  pretiy  little 
village  of  about  300  people.  It  is  in  the  midst 
of  an  extensive  dairying  region.  Frequent  and 
heavy  fogs  coming  in  over  Bodega  Bay  cause  an 
abundance  of  grass,  and  prevent  severe  droughts. 
Valley  Ford  was  so  named  from  the  crossing  of 
the  old  Spanish  trail  from  the  interior  ranches  to 
Tomales  Bay  and  the  coast.  Up  to  1857  the  In- 
dians made  two  or  three  trips  a  year,  to  procure 
shell-fish  for  eating  and  shells  for  the  manufac- 
ture of  money.  It  is  a  well-accredited  fact  that 
on  this  town  site  there  were  grown  in  1854  one 
hundred  bushels  of  oats  to  the  acre. 

Bodega  Roads,  65  miles,  is  the  depot  for 
Bodega  Corners  on  a  portion  of  the  tract  formed 


by  the  Russians,  and  in  the  midst  of  the  potato- 
growing  regions. 

Freestone,  66.5  miles,  was  settled  first  under 
direction  of  General  Vallejo  to  check  the  ad- 
vance of  the  Russians.  It  is  in  the  midst  of  a 
fertile  valley  and  rich  dairy  lands. 

Just  beyond  Freestone  the  road  enters  the 
belt  of  Red-woods  {Sequoia  Sempervirens),  and  as- 
cends Salmon  Creek  toward  the  summit,  where 
the  waters  flow  north  into  Russian  River  and 
south  into  Bodega  Bay. 

On  this  ascent  the  road  crosses  one  of  the 
highest  bridges  west  of  the  Mississippi  River. 
The  bridge  crosses  Brown  Canon,  has  two  spans 
of  Howe  truss,  each  150  feet  long,  and  is  at  the 
giddy  height  of  137  feet  above  the  canon.  The 
central  pier  is  110  feet  high,  of  the  kind  called  a 
cluster  pier,  and  is  a  splendid  piece  of  mechanism. 

At  Howard's,  70J  miles,  the  road  is  at  the 
summit  and  fairly  in  the  red-wood  country.  To 
reach  this  timber  was  the  first  great  aim  of  the 
road,  and  more  than  200,000  feet  of  lumber  are 
now  shipped  daily  from  the  mills  at  the  Russian 
River  and  along  the  line  of  the  road. 

The  stations  —  Streeten's  Mills,  Tyrone  Mills, 
Russian  River,  Moscow  Mills,  and  Duncan's  Mills 
—  alike  show  the  business  of  the  country. 

Duncan's  Mills,  the  terminus,  is  80J  milei 
from  San  Francisco.  The  timber-land  is  usually 
held  in  large  tracts.  The  Russian  River  Land 
and  Lumber  Company,  of  which  Governor  M.  S. 
Latham  was  first  president,  owns  10,000  acres  in 
a  body,  and  around  the  terminus  of  this  road  it 
is  estimated  there  are  600,000,000  feet  of  lumber — 
enough  for  ten  years'  cutting. 

At  the  terminus  of  the  road  is  Julian's  Hotel, 
one  of  the  best  in  the  State.  Austin  Creek 
empties  into  Russian  River  near  this  point.  It  is 
one  of  the  best  streams  for  trout  near  the  city. 
The  hills  abound  with  quail  and  rabbits,  while 
deer  and  grouse,  and  even  bears  and  wild-cats, 
may  be  occasionally  found  at  no  great  distance. 

In  the  river  salmon  can  be  caught  or  speared, 
and  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  only  six  miles  dis- 
tant, a  variety  of  sea-fishing  may  be  had.  Con- 
sidering the  unequaled  variety  of  beautiful 
scenery  on  the  line  of  so  short  a  road,  and  the 
charming  picturesque  region  in  which  the  road 
terminates,  the  climate,  game,  and  amusements 
to  be  had  in  the  vicinity,  no  spot  deserves  to  be 
more  favored  by  the  tourist  who  has  not  enough 
time  to  acquaint  himself  with  the  hunting  and 
fishing  grounds  of  Northern  California. 

The  Northern  Coast  stages  leave  daily  for  Fort 
Ross,  16  miles  ;  Henry's,  16  miles  ;  Timber  Cove, 
20  miles  ;  Salt  Point,  25  miles  ;  Fisk's  Mills,  30 
miles  ;  Stewart's  Point,  34  miles  ;  Gualala,  44 
miles  ;  Fish  Rock,  50  miles  ;  Point  Arena,  60 
miles  ;  Manchester,  66  miles  ;  Cuffey's  Cove,  80 
miles  ;  Navarro  Ridge,  86  miles  ;  and  Mendocino 
City,  96  miles.  Fare,  about  12£  cents  a  mile. 


•322 


San  Francisco  and  North  Pacific  Railroad. 


This  road  was  built  mainly  by  the  president, 
Mr.  Donahue,  and  has  rapidly  developed  a  rich 
section  of  country,  and  is  the  great  highway  for 
nearly  all  of  Sonoma  County.  The  road  extends 
from  Donahue  to  Cloverdale,  and  is  connected 
with  San  Francisco  by  a  ferry  of  34  miles. 

There  is  also  a  branch  from  San  Rafael  to  Peta- 
luma,  and  by  a  connection  with  the  Ferry  to 
San  Quentin  and  the  San  Francisco  and  North 
Pacific  Coast  Narrow  Gauge,  a  continuous  and 
pleasant  and  the  shortest  route  is  formed  from 
San  Francisco  to  Cloverdale  and  the  Geysers. 
The  train  over  this  branch  leaves  San  Fran- 
cisco in  the  morning  and  reaches  Cloverdale  in 
time  for  dinner.  Tourists  for  the  Geysers 
should  make  sure  of  this  morning  train,  so  as 
to  reach  the  Geysers  the  same  day.  The  steamer 
'  James  M.  Donohue "  leaves  the  Washington 
Street  wharf,  San  Francisco,  every  day  to  con- 
nect with  the  cars  at  Donohue. 

Donahue,  34  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
on  Petaluma  Creek,  and  is  simply  a  place  for 
the  transfer  of  passengers  and  freight  from  cars 
to  steamer  or  vice  versa. 

The  route  from  San  Francisco  to  Donahue  is 
north  and  north-east,  the  steamer  taking  the 
course  to  Vallejo  or  the  Sacramento  River  until 
Red  Rock  is  passed,  then  heading  for  the  north- 
east corner  of  San  Pablo  Bay. 

LaJceville,  35  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is  a 
small  station  at  which  passengers  for  Sonoma 
are  transferred  to  stages.  The  distance  is  seven 
miles,  and  the  fare  from  San  Francisco  to 
Sonoma,  $1.50.  Sonoma  Valley  is  celebrated 
for  its  wines  and  delightful  climate. 

The  Sonoma  Valley  is  about  25  miles  long,  and 
forms  but  a  small  part  of  the  country.  The  mis- 
sion of  Sonoma  was  planted  July  4th,  1823,  near 
the  present  Catholic  church,  and  was  destroyed 
by  the  Indians  in  1826,  and  rebuilt  in  the  follow- 
ing year.  The  present  town  was  laid  out  by 
General  Vallejo  in  1834,  and  the  struggle  against 
the  Russians  for  possession  of  the  country  was 
carried  on  from  this  point  for  some  years.  Here 
a  company  of  thirty-three  Americans  from  Sut- 
ter's  Fort  made  a  prisoner  of  General  Vallejo, 
the  Spanish  commander  of  California,  and  raised 
the  Bear  Flag,  the  standard  of  the  pioneer  soci- 
eties of  the  State.  Among  those  stationed  at 
Sonoma  prior  to  1851  were  Lieutenant  Derby,  Gen- 
erals Hooker,  Stoneman  and  Sherman. 

The  Sonoma  Creek  runs  through  the  valley,  and 
a  small  steamer  runs  from  its  mouth  to  San  Fran- 
cisco. A  Narrow  Guage  Railway  connects  the 
town  of  Sonoma  with  the  bay  near  the  mouth 
of  the  creek. 

Petaluma,  42  miles  from  San  Francisco,  was 
long  the  largest  and  principal  city  in  the  county. 
Its  name  is  of  Indian  origin  but  doubtful  sig- 


nification. It  is  built  on  undulating  ground, 
which  affords  good  drainage  and  a  fine  view  of 
the  valley  and  mountains  beyond  it.  Mt.  St. 
Helena  and  the  Geyser  Peak  are  visible  from  the 
town.  The  climate  is  mild  and  pleasant,  and  the 
town  one  of  the  healthiest  in  the  State.  It  was 
laid  out  in  1852,  and  has  been  the  general  ship- 
ping-point for  the  produce  of  Sonoma  and  Men- 
docino  counties.  It  has  a  steamer  running  di- 
rectly to  the  city,  from  a  point  on  the  creek  a 
short  distance  below  the  city,  and  stages  to  So- 
noma via  Lakeville.  It  has  water-works,  gas, 
good  schools,  six  churches,  three  banks,  and 
two  weekly  papers. 

Leaving  Petaluma,  the  course  of  the  road  is 
northward  through  Petaluma  Valley,  which 
opens  into  Santa  Rosa,  and  this  into  Russian 
River  Valley.  The  three  valleys  are  in  fact  one 
great  valley. 

Ely's,  Penn's  Grove,  Goodwin's,  Page's, 
Coyote  Ranch,  and  Oak  Grove  are  all  small 
stations  in  a  rich  agricultural  region. 

Penn's  Grove  is  near  the  low  divide  where  the 
waters  flow  south  into  Petaluma  Creek,  and  north 
into  Russian  River.  The  Coyote  Ranch  is  four 
leagues  in  extent. 

Santa  Rosa,  57  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
is  one  of  the  most  beautifully  situated  towns  of 
the  State,  and  its  inhabitants,  whether  natives  of 
New  Jersey  or  not,  consider  it  superior  to  every 
city  in  the  Union.  Its  recent  progress  has  been 
more  rapid  than  any  other  interior  town.  It  has 
a  population  of  about  7000,  is  the  county  seat  of 
Sonoma  County,  and  has  a  street  railroad,  sixty 
miles  of  streets,  water-works,  gas,  a  daily  and  two 
weekly  newspapers,  two  banks,  eight  churches, 
two  colleges,  Prof.  Jones'  academy  for  boys, 
Miss  Chase's  school  for  girls,  and  other  private 
and  public  schools.  One  of  the  colleges  —  the 
Pacific  Methodist — is  under  the  control  of  the 
Methodist  Episcopal  Church  South.  The  build- 
ings and  grounds  are  valued  at  $30,000.  The 
other — the  Christian  College — is  under  the  con- 
trol of  the  Christian  Church,  and  is  valued  at 
$35,000. 

Much  of  the  prosperity  of  Santa  Rosa  is  due  to 
these  two  colleges.  Several  hundred  young  of 
both  sexes  are  brought  by  them  to  study  in  the 
town,  and  many  parents,  retiring  from  active 
business,  make  Santa  Rosa  their  home  on  account 
of  its  educational  advantages.  Two  and  a  half 
miles  west  of  Santa  Rosa  are  the  White  Sulphur 
Springs,  a  pleasant  resort,  and  nine  miles  to  the 
north-east  on  the  road  to  Calistoga,  via  the  Petri- 
fied Forest,  are  the  Mark  West  Springs,  beauti- 
fully located  in  a  bend  of  the  Mark  West 
Creek. 

Quite  a  romantic  history  is  connected  with  the 
name  of  the  creek,  town,  and  valley.  In  brief, 


323 


Friar  Amorosa,  a  zealous  Catholic  missionary, 
made  an  excursion  north-east  from  San  Rafael  in 
1829  and  captured  an  Indian  maiden  of  the 
Cainemeros  tribe,  and  baptized  her  in  the  river 
Chocoalomi,  and  gave  her  t«»s  name  of  Santa 
Rosa,  because  the  day  of  the  Baptism  was  the 
day  of  the  feast  of  Santa  Rosa  de  Lima.  He  was 
attacked  by  the  natives  and  driven  back,  but  the 
name  remains  and  is  honored  to-day. 

The  climate  of  Santa  Rosa  is  mild  and  pleas- 
ant, a  grateful  mean  between  the  cold  of  the 
coast  and  the  heat  of  the  interior  valleys. 

Santa  Rosa  boasts  of  its  exuberant  vegetation, 
and  especially  its  mammoth  rose-bush.  This  is 
in  front  of  the  Grand  Hotel,  and  is  of  the  La 
Marque  variety,  with  a  pure  white  blossom.  The 
stem  measures  24  inches  in  circumference  at  the 
base,  and  grows  to  a  height  of  12  feet  without 
branches,  and  in  all  27  feet  high,  with  a  width 
of  22  feet.  It  was  planted  in  1858,  and  has  had 
4000  roses  in  full  bloom  at  one  time,  with  twice 
as  many  opening  buds. 

Of  several  good  hotels  in  Santa  Rosa,  the  Occi- 
dental is  the  best. 

Fulton,  61  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is  the 
point  of  divergence  of  the  Fulton  and  Guerne- 
ville  Branch,  leading  to  the  red- wood  forests  on 
the  Russian  River.  The  stations  on  this  branch 
are  Meacham's,  Laguna,  Forestville,  Green  Val- 
ley, Korbel's,  and  Guerneville.  The  length  of  this 
branch  is  16  miles. 

At  Korbel's  some  of  the  enormous  trees  are  pre- 
served from  cutting  or  injury  and  the  grounds 
tastefully  fitted  up  for  picnics.  Guerneville  is  on 
the  Russian  River,  only  a  few  miles  above  Dun- 
can's Mills,  the  terminus  of  the  North  Pacific 
Coast  (narrow  gauge)  Railroad. 

A  visit  to  the  region  of  the  red- woods  will  re- 
pay the  tourist,  for  these  (Sequoia  Semperoirens) 
are  peculiar  to  the  coast  mountains.  None  are 
found  in  Oregon,  Washington  Territory,  Mexico, 
or  the  Sierra  Nevadas.  It  is  the  chief  material  for 
the  lumber  of  the  State.  It  was  used  for  ties  for 
the  Central  Pacific  Railroad,  and  lasts  for  many 
years  in  the  ground.  No  other  wood  splits  so 
true  to  the  grain.  Some  of  the  trees  are  said  to 
grow  to  a  diameter  of  twenty -five  feet,  the  larg- 
est being  in  Mendocino  and  Humboldt  counties. 
An  acre  of  these  trees  near  Guerneville,  on  the 
"  Big  Bottom,"  yielded  800,000  feet  of  lumber. 
The  largest  tree  cut  there  was  18  feet  in  diame- 
ter, and  made  180,000  feet  of  lumber.  The  tall- 
est tree  was  344£  feet  in  height,  taller  than  any 
one  of- the  "  Big  Trees"  (Sequoia  Qigantea)  now 
standing. 

There  are  three  large  saw-mills  near  Guerne- 
ville, and  others  on  the  line  of  the  road.  In  the 
red-wood  forests  there  is  also  found  an  abundance 
of  the  chestnut  oak  (Quercus Densiflora),  the  bark 
of  which  is  used  for  tanning,  and  brings  from 
$15  to  $17  a  cord  in  San  Francisco. 


Mark    West,    Windsor,    and    Grant's 

are  small  stations  ;  and 

Healdsburg,  72  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
is  beautifully  located  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Russian  River,  with  Dry  Creek  and  its  valley 
west  of  the  town.  Near  the  town  is  Sotoyome 
or  Fitch  Mountain,  a  butte  around  which  Rus- 
sian River  winds  its  course.  The  town  was  laid 
out  in  1856,  and  has  a  population  of  nearly  3000. 
It  has  a  bank,  seven  churches,  two  weekly 
papers,  and  the  Alexander  Academy,  under  the 
supervision  of  Rev.  S.  H.  Thomas,  LL.D.,  a 
Presbyterian  minister,  who  for  many  years  was 
a  professor  in  Hanover  College,  Indiana. 

Healdsburg  has  a  delightful  climate,  and  is 
convenient  to  the  range  of  mountains  on  either  the 
east  or  west  side  of  the  valley,  where  trout, 
quail,  rabbits,  and  deer  may  be  found  in  abund- 
ance. 

Near  Healdsburg  are  several  places  of  resort, 
among  them  "Magnolia  Farm,"  and  Mrs.  Mil- 
ler's, and  the  celebrated  Litton  Seltzer  Springs. 
The  station  of 

Litton  Springs  is  near  the  hotel  and  spring. 
The  buildings  were  erected  at  a  cost  of  $80,- 
000,  and  are  not  equaled  by  those  connected 
with  any  mineral  spring  in  the  State. 

They  are  now  used  as  a  boarding  school  for 
boys. 

The  situation  is  charming,  in  a  broad  plateau 
overlooking  Alexander  Valley  and  the  course  of 
the  Russian  River  for  miles,  and  flanked  on  three 
sides  by  mountain  peaks.  The  water  is  bottled 
and  sold  in  San  Francisco  in  large  quantities,  and 
has  been  carefully  analyzed. 

GeyservUle,  80  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
the  station  for  Skagg's  Springs.  The  valley  has 
become  quite  narrow  at  this  point.  The  springs 
are  eight  miles  west  of  Geyserville,  at  the  head 
of  Dry  Creek  Valley.  There  are  hot  sulphur 
springs,  a  soda  spring,  iron  spring,  and  luxurious 
baths.  The  situation  is  beautiful — one  of  the 
most  charming  of  all  the  mineral  springs  in  the 
State. 

Truett's  is  a  small  station  ;  and 

Cloverdale,  the  terminus,  is  90  miles  from 
San  Francisco.  It  is  at  the  head  of  the  valley,  and 
on  Russian  River,  with  romantic  and  picturesque 
scenery  on  every  hand.  It  has  about  a  dozen 
stores,  two  hotels,  two  churches,  and  one  news- 
paper, the  Weekly  Cloverdale  News.  The  pop- 
ulation is  about  700. 

From  Cloverdale  there  is  an  excellent  road  to 
the  Geysers,  with  no  grade  exceeding  four  feet 
to  the  hundred,  and  the  stages  of  Van  Arnam 
&  Kennedy  are  of  the  most  approved  pattern, 
and  the  distance,  16  miles,  has  been  made  in  an 
hour  and  a  half.  The  fare  for  the  round  trip  is 
$4.50. 

Stages  run  from  Cloverdale  every  day  to 
Ukiah,  the  county  town  of  Mendocino  County, 


324 


31  miles  (fare  from  San  Francisco,  $7.75),  and 
to  Mendocino  on  the  see-coast,  75  miles  (fare, 
$11.50). 

Cloverdale  has  daily  stages  also  to  the  many 
places  of  resort  in  Lake  County — to  Kelseyville, 


Soda  Bay,  Highland  Springs,  Witter  Springs  (via 
Ukiah  or  via  Upper  Lake),  Lakeport,  Pierson's 
Springs,  and  connections  for  Glenbrook  or  Bas- 
sett's,  Adams,  Sulphur  Banks,  Howard  Springs, 
Blue  Lakes,  and  Bartlett's  Springs. 


Oregon  Division   of  the    Central  Pacific  Railroad  to  Marys- 
ville, Mt.    Shasta,   Northern  California  Railroad  to 
Oroville,    and  Overland  Route    to  Oregon 
and  Washington  Territory. 


All  trains  over  the  Oregon  Division  going  north 
are  made  up  at  Sacramento,  and  leave  the  main 
line  of  the  Central  Pacific  at  Roseville  Junction, 
18.2  miles  east. 

The  general  direction  of  the  road  is  north, 
through  a  grazing  and  wheat-growing  section  to 
the  foot-hills  at  the  head  of  the  Sacramento  Val- 
ley. 

Whitney's  is  a  signal  station  ;  and 

Lincoln,  28.7  miles  from  Sacramento,  has  a 
coal  deposit  near  the  village  of  300  people,  which 
supplies  fuel  for  manufacturing  purposes.  The 
manufacture  of  pottery  and  sewer-pipe  from  clay 
convenient  to  the  railroad  is  also  an  important 
industry. 

The  Marysville  Buttes,  2030  feet  high,  are  a 
landmark  in  every  portion  of  the  upper  Sacra- 
mento Valley,  and  are  always  seen  when  going 
north,  on  the  left-hand  side  of  the  road. 

Swing  is  a  signal  station,  and 

Sheridan  a  little  village  near  Bear  River. 
The  soil  on  the  south  side  is  mostly  light,  and 
the  land  used  for  pasturing  sheep  and  cattle. 

Bear  River  Channel  has  been  entirely  filled  with 
debris  from  the  mines  above;  and  from  this 
source  a  great  contest  has  arisen  in  the  State  be- 
tween the  agricultural  and  mining  interests,  and 
it  is  yet  undecided. 

Wheatland,  39.6  miles,  has  a  population  of 
about  800,  and  a  weekly  newspaper,  the  Recorder. 
The  principal  trade  is  in  wheat  and  flour. 

Seed's  and 

Yuba  are  both  signal  stations. 

As  the  road  approaches  Marysville,  it  crosses  the 
Yuba  River.     Like  Bear  River,  the  channel  has  ,j 
been  filled   up  many   feet  in   places,  and  high 
levees  are  required  on  each  side,  especially  dur-  ! 
ing  the  winter  rains. 

Marysville,  52.4  miles  from  Sacramento,  is 
at  the  confluence  of  the  Yuba  and  Feather  riv- 
ers, is  the  county  town  of  Yuba  County,  has  a 
population  of  5000,  wide  and  regular  streets,  is 
the  home  of  the  Roman  Catholic  bishop,  has  large  • 
Catholic  educational  institutions  and  good  Prot-  i 
estant  schools,  is  lighted  with  gas,  has  water  from  j 
an  artesian  well  300  feet  deep,  has  six  churches, 
banks,  foundries,  machine-shops,  wholesale  and 


retail  stores,  and  numerous  hotels.  The  Western 
Hotel  is  one  of  the  best  outside  of  San  Francisco. 
There  is  one  daily  paper,  the  Marysville  Appeal. 
Oranges  and  lemons  grow  well  in  and  around  the 
city,  and  the  private  residences  are  usually  sur- 
rounded by  choice  fruit  or  shade  trees  and  a  rare 
wealth  of  roses  and  flowers.  The  prosperity  of 
Marysville  was  very  great  when  there  was  no  rail- 
road extending  northward  and  the  mines  were 
yielding  well,  and  now  the  city  is  building  up 
again,  and  building  solidly  on  the  trade  of  the  sur- 
rounding country,  and  especially  on  that  of  Sutter 
County,  across  the  Feather  River. 

It  has  two  stage-lines  daily  to  Colusa,  28  miles 
west,  and  also  stages  to  Grass  Valley,  35  miles  ; 
North  San  Juan,  38  miles  ;  La  Porte,  65  miles  ; 
and  Downieyille,  67  miles. 

Marysville  has  been  flooded  several  times,  but 
is  now  surrounded  by  high  and  strong  levees,  and 
considered  safe  against  any  floods.  Just  across 
the  Feather  River  is  Tuba  City,  the  county  town 
of  Sutter  County,  with  a  population  of  800.  It 
is  at  the  head  of  steamboat  navigation  ;  has  one 
weekly  newspaper,  the  Sutter  Banner.  About 
eight  miles  below  the  city  is  the  "  Hock  Farm," 
the  old  home  of  General  Sutter,  so  renowned  for 
hospitality  in  the  Pioneer  days  of  California. 

At   Marysville    passengers    going   north    take 
supper,  and  going  south  take  breakfast,  and  pas- 
sengers for   Orvitte  (distance  28  miles),  change 
cars,  taking  at  the  depot  of  the  Central  Pacific 
road    those   of     THE     NORTHERN     CALI- 
FORNIA RAILROAD,  which  connects  closely 
with  the  Central  Pacific  and  reaches  the  follow- 
ing stations. 

Honcut  is  its  only  station,  and  an  unimport- 
ant one. 

Oroville  the  northern  terminus,  has  a  popu- 
lation of  1500,  and  is  the  county  seat  of  Butte 
County.  Its  placer-mines,  once  fabulously  rich, 
are  now  worked  chiefly  by  Chinamen,  but  the 
mining  interests  in  the  foot-hills  make  Oroville 
the  seat  of  a  considerable  trade.  It  has  stages  to 
Cherokee  Flat,  12  miles  ;  La  Porte,  45  miles ; 
Susanville,  85  miles  ;  Chico,  25  miles  ;  and  Bigg's 
Station,  12  miles.  Oroville  has  one  church — a 
union  church.  During  the  summer  nearly  all 


325 


the  families  desert  the  place  and  take  themselves 
to  the  mountains  to  escape  the  intense  heat. 

After  leaving  Marysville,on  the  Central  Pacific, 
the  Feather  River  is  crossed,  about  two  miles 
from  the  depot. 

Lotno  and  Live  Oak  are  flag  stations  ;  and 

Gridley  and  Biggs  are  both  new  and  flour- 
ishing towns,  named  from  the  owners  of  large 
ranches.  From  Biggs  there  is  a  stage  to  Oroville, 
12  miles  (fare,  $1).  Biggs  has  a  weekly  paper,  the 
Register,  and  a  population  of  about  1000. 

All  this  upper  Sacramento  Valley  is  a  vast 
wheat-field,  and  evidences  of  its  productiveness 
are  on  every  hand. 

North  of  Biggs  the  road  crosses  the  canal  of 
the  Cherokee  Flat  Mining  Company,  18  miles 
long  and  400  feet  wide,  but  filled  up  like  the 
channels  of  the  ri  vers,  and  extending  its  smooth 
sediment  over  the  acres  on  either  side. 

Nelson,  and  Durham  are  small  stations,  but 
in  a  rich  section. 

Chico,  95.7  miles,  is  one  of  the  best  and  most 
prosperous  towns  of  California.  Its  population 
is  6,000.  It  has  five  churches,  is  lighted  with 
gas,  supplied  with  pure  water  from  Chico  Creek, 
has  several  banks  and  hotels  (the  principal  one 
the  Chico  House),  has  one  daily  paper,  the 
Record,  and  one  weekly,  the  Enterprise.  The 
Sierra  Flume  and  Lumber  Company  have  con- 
structed several  V-shaped  flumes  from  the  Sierra 
Nevada  Mountains  on  the  east  to  different  points 
on  the  railroad.  One  of  these  flumes  terminates 
at  Chico,  and  is  35  miles  long. 

The  beautiful  home  of  General  Bidwell,  who 
came  to  California  prior  to  the  "gold  fever," 
and  who  has  always  been  one  of  her  most  enter- 
prising citizens,  is  just  north  of  the  town.  His 
orchard  is  filled  with  oranges,  lemons,  figs, 
almonds,  walnuts,  and  the  choicest  of  other 
traits,  and  his  vegetables,  flower  gardens,  and 
home,  are  unequalled  in  Northern  California.  He 
has  32,000  acres  of  the  choicest  land  in  one  tract. 

Chico  has  a  daily  stage  to  Oroville,  25  miles  ; 
Greenville,  60  miles  ;  and  Big  Meadows,  Plumas 
County,  65  miles  ;  Big  Valley,  Lasson  County,  80 
miles  ;  Dayton,  Butler  County,  6  miles  ;  Jacinto, 
14  miles  ;  Germantown,  13  miles  ;  Willows,  56 
miles ;  and  Colusa,  40  miles  —  connecting  at 
Colusa  for  Williams  on  the  Northern  Railway, 
and  for  Allen  and  Bartlett's  Springs. 

Stages  run  Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Fridays 
to  St.  John,  10  miles  ;  Orland,  23  miles  ;  Coast 
Range,  35  miles  ;  and  Newville,  40  miles.  The 
fare  is  from  ten  to  fifteen  cents  a  mile. 

Nora,  Anita,  Cana,  Soto,  Vina,  and 
Sesma  are  all  small  stations,  but  in  a  fertile 
country. 

The  Sacramento  River  is  crossed  on  a  bridge 
near 

Tehama,  122.8  miles  from  Sacramento.  The 
population  of  the  town  is  nearly  1000,  and  the 


people  have  a  daily  paper,  the  Tocsin.  The 
place  was  first  called  "Hall's  Crossing."  It  is 
the  terminus  of  a  flume  40  miles  long,  erected 
by  the  Sierra  Flume  and  Lumber  Co.  Last 
sen's  Peak,  with  an  altitude,  according  to  Prof. 
George  Davidson,  of  the  United  States  Coast 
Survey,  of  10,650  feet,  may  be  seen  in  the  north- 
west. 

Red  Bluff,  134.9  miles,  is  the  county  seat  of 
Tehama  County,  with  200  inhabitants.  It  is  at 
the  head  of  river  navigation  in  the  midst  of  rich 
land,  and  is  the  terminus  of  another  flume  of  the 
Sierra  Flume  and  Lumber  Company.  It  has  two 
weekly  newspapers,  the  Sentinel  and  People' » 
Cause.  Mt.  Shasta  may  be  seen  in  fair  weather, 
far  away  to  the  north. 

Hooker  and  Buckeye  are  signal  stations  ; 
and 

Cottomvood,  151.9  miles,  on  Cottonwood 
Creek,  is  a  small  village  of  300  people  ;  and 

Anderson's  is  a  village  of  200  people,  158.6 
miles  from  Sacramento  ;  and 

Clear  Creek,  a  small  station  near 

Redding,  the  present  terminus  of  the  road. 
The  population  of  Redding  is  about  500.  It  is 
169.7  miles  from  Sacramento. 

Stages  leave  Redding  daily  for  Shasta,  Scott's 
Valley,  Weaverville,  and  Yreka,  and  for  Camp- 
bell's Soda  Springs,  69  miles  ;  Sisson's,  at  the 
foot  of  Mt.  Shasta,  77  miles  ;  Yreka,  114  miles  ; 
Jacksonville,  174  miles,  and  Roseburg,  Oregon, 
275  miles.  The  fare  is  fifteen  cents  a  mile. 
Through  fare  from  San  Francisco  to  Portland, 
$46.  On  this  route  are 

Tlie  Head  Waters  of  the  Sacramento 
River  and  Mount  Sliasta.—'FoT:  further  in- 
formation of  this  region  see  pages  303  and  304. 
By  this  route  the  tourist  to  Oregon  may  ascend 
Mount  Shasta,  from  Sisson's,  or  stop  for  the 
best  hunting  and  fishing  in  the  world  there  or 
at  many  other  points  on  the  way.  The  lofty 
peaks  of  the  mountain  ranges,  and  the  count- 
less volcanic  biittes  of  Shasta  Valley,  the  bare 
rocks,  the  dark  forests,  the  bright  moss,  the 
bracing  atmosphere,  the  frequent  storms  play- 
ing around  the  white  cap  of  Shasta — every- 
thing on  the  route  is  either  charming  or 
majestically  grand.  A  part  of  the  road  is  cut 
out  of  the  side  of  a  mountain,  and  some  of  it 
nearly  2,000  feet  above  the  bed  of  the  creek  in 
which,  for  years,  was  the  only  road  for  the  emi- 
grant between  northern  California  and  Oregon, 
— a  road  alternating  in  deep  pools  and  among 
mighty  boulders.  One  mountain  descent 
stretches  toward  the  north  for  eleven  consecu- 
tive miles,  but  the  location  of  the  road  was  ex- 
cellently engineered,  and  the  road  equipped 
with  powerful  horses,  the  best  Concord  coaches 
and  most  skillful  drivers.  The  275  miles  are 
made  in  two  days,  and  no  stage-ride  on  the 
whole  Pacific  coast  is  more  delightful. 


NORTHERN  CALIFORNIA,  AND  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY. 


Some  of  the  finest  scenery  on  the  continent  is 
to  be  found  in  Oregon  and  Washington  Territory. 
The  tourist  en  route  to  this  from  San  Francisco 
may  take  a  steamer  of  the  Pacific  Coast  Steam- 
ship Company,  or  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship 
Company,  or  the  Oregon  Steamship  Company. 
There  are  two  or  three  steamers  a  week  at  all 
seasons. 

Or,  if  one  desire  to  see  the  country  and  avoid 
the  ocean,  let  him  take  the  Central  Pacific  Rail- 
road to  Bedding,  and  the  stages  of  the  California 
and  Oregon  Stage  Company  to  Roseburg.  The 
whole  275  miles  of  stage  route  is  through  the 
most  beautiful,  wild,  and  sublime  scenery.  The 
road  follows  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento  River 
to  its  head -waters  at  the  foot  of  Mt.  Shasta,  14,- 
444  feet  high,  and  passes  along  the  base  of  this 
lofty,  snow-capped  and  glacier-clad  butte.  (See 
"  Head- waters  of  the  Sacramento  and  Mt.  Shas- 
ta.") It  then  crosses  the  Siskiyou  and  Rogue 
River  Mountains,  and  passes  over  either  high 
mountains  on  easy  grades  or  through  canons  and 
narrow  valleys  for  its  entire  length. 

At  Roseburg  the  stage  connects  with  the  cars 
of  the  Oregon  and  California  Railroad,  200  miles 
from  Portland.  The  route  is  thence  to  and 
through  the  Willamette  Valley — 50  miles  by  150 
— the  ' '  garden  of  the  north-west, ' '  pronounced  by 
ex-Vice-President  Golf  ax  "  as  charming  a  land- 
scape as  ever  painter's  brush  placed  upon  can- 
vas. ' ' 

En  route  to  Portland  one  may  visit  Salem,  the 
capital,  and  other  thriving  towns  in  the  Wil- 
lamette Valley,  and  the  beautiful  Falls  of  the 
Willamette  at  Oregon  City  ;  and  from  Portland 
go  to  Puget  Sound  and  British  Columbia  up  the 
canon  of  the  Fraser  River  from  Victoria  ;  or  from 
Portland  or  Victoria  to  Alaska  ;  or  to  Astoria, 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River  ;  or  up  the 
Columbia  to  the  Dalles  and  Wallula,  and  there 
either  take  rail  30  miles  to  Walla  Walla,  or  pro- 
ceed up  the  Columbia  to  Priest's  Rapids,  or  up 
the  Snake  River  to  Lewiston  in  Idaho,  the  head 
of  navigation. 

Portland  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  Willam- 
ette, the  site  sloping  back  to  hills  from  which  can 
be  seen  Mounts  Hood,  Adams,  Ranier,  and  St. 
Helens,  and  four  magnificent  domes. 

Mt.  Hood  is  the  great  central  figure  of  Oregon, 


rearing  his  lofty  head  as  a  snow-white  pyramid, 
and  forming  a  pleasant  background  to  many  a 
charming  view. 

The  Columbia  River,  the  second  largest  vol- 
ume of  fresh  water  in  the  world,  is  mighty  and 
beautiful  in  itself  and  its  distant  surroundings. 
No  one  who  sees  can  ever  forget  the  lands  that 
lie  at  its  entrance  to  the  sea.  The  beauty  goes 
far  to  compensate  for  passing  over  one  of  the 
roughest  bars  in  the  world.  All  is  grand  be- 
tween Astoria  and  Portland,  and  from  Portland 
to  the  Cascades  the  whole  route  is  without  any 
thing  to  equal  it,  From  the  Dalles  to  Celilo,  it 
loses  its  beautiful  green,  and,  although  barren, 
it  is  perfectly  grand. 

Away  up  in  British  Columbia,  near  the  head  of 
navigation,  it  is  confined  within  high  canons,  and 
presents  a  constant  succession  of  bold  and  strik- 
ing views.  The  upper  Snake,  tOAvard  Lewiston 
in  Idaho,  is  of  the  same  majestic  character. 

The  distance  from  Portland  to  the  Dalles  is  121 
miles,  and  from  Dalles  to  Wallulu  121  miles,  and 
from  Wallula  to  Lewiston  161  miles. 

Steamers  leave  Portland  daily  for  the  Dalles  at 
5  A.M.,  and  for  Wallula  Mondays  and  Fridays  at 
5  A.M.,  connecting  with  30  miles  of  railroad  for 
Walla  Walla.  The  fare  from  Portland  to  the 
Dalles  is  $5  ;  to  Wallulu.  $12  ;  and  from  Wallula 
to  Walla  Walla,  $3. 


fuget  Sound. 

The  route  to  "  The  Sound  "  is  by  the  boats  of 
the  Oregon  Steam  Navigation  Company  from 
Portland  to  Kalama,  thence  by  the  Northern  Pa- 
cific Railroad  to  Tacoma,  105  miles,  and  thence 
by  steamer  for  all  points  on  the  sound. 

"  The  Sound  "  is  a  most  beautiful  sheet  of 
water — a  succession  of  bays  with  enchanting 
shores  on  two  and  sometimes,  apparently,  on  all 
sides,  sloping  up  to  hills  and  well-timbered 
mountains.  Seattle  and  Olympia  are  the  largest 
towns  of  general  interest.  Port  Townsend  and 
other  places  are  extensive  lumber-mills. 

Victoria,  in  British  America,  is  a  beautiful, 
quiet  place  of  5000  people. 


327 


Passengers  can  leave  Portland  daily  at  6  A.M. 
(except  Sunday)  for  all  points  on  the  Sound,  and 
for  Victoria  on  Wednesday  and  Saturday  at  the 
same  hour.  From  Portland  to  Kalama  the  fare 
is  $1  ;  to  Tacoma,  $7  ;  and  to  Victoria,  $13. 

During  the  summer  season,  the  tourist  may 
•wish  to  see  "  Clatsop  Beach,"  the  great  water- 
ing-place of  Oregon — her  boast,  and  the  envy  of 
California.  It  is  a  long,  wide,  splendid  beach 
from  Fort  Stevens,  at  the  mouth  of  Columbia 
River,  to  Tilamook  on  the  south,  a  distance  of  20 
miles.  The  route  is  via,  Astoria  by  the  steamers 
of  the  Oregon  Steam  Navigation  Company,  and 
thence  across  a  promontory  to  the  ocean.  Be- 
sides the  splendid  beach,  the  place  has  all  the 
usual  attractions  of  mountain,  sea,  and  sand — 
meadow,  grove,  and  stream. 

Oregon,  like  Northern  California,  is  a  sort  of 


sportsman's  paradise.  Its  streams,  which  are 
everywhere,  abound  in  trout,  and  the  large  rivers 
in  salmon.  Deer,  grouse,  quail,  ducks,  and 
geese,  bear,  elk,  mountain-sheep,  and  cougars 
are  in  all  sections  of  the  State,  although  civiliza- 
tion has  drawn  the  elk,  mountain-sheep,  and  bear 
from  the  great  valleys.  Deer  are  plentiful,  con- 
venient to  points  reached  by  railroad  and  steam- 
ers, and  grouse  are  found  in  all  the  valleys.  The 
sportsman  and  tourist  can  not  go  amiss  in  any 
section  of  Oregon,  Washington  Territory,  or 
Idaho. 

To  the  emigrant  its  broad,  unoccupied,  fertile 
plains  present  a  great  attraction.  Emigrants  will 
find  information  furnished  by  the  Oregon  State 
Board  of  Immigration,  or  the  Land  Department 
of  the  Oregon  and  California  Railroad,  504  Bat- 
tery Street,  San  Francisco. 


The  tour  of  the  world  is  now  the  lot  of  many 
who  of  necessity  must  enter  the  Golden  Gate. 
But  some,  starting  from  England,  must  decide 
whether  they  will  visit  Australia  via  the  Suez 
Canal  or  San  Francisco.  It  is  more  expensive 
to  go  from  London  via  New  York  and  San  Fran- 
cisco, but  it  has  been  clearly  demonstrated  that 
this  is  the  quickest  route  and  best  adapted  for 
the  mails. 

It  is  also  the  pleasantest  route.  By  it  one 
from  England  has  the  advantages  of  seeing  the 
length  and  breadth  of  the  American  continent 
while  he  is  en  route,  and  the  privilege  of  stop- 
ping where  he  pleases  ;  and  if  he  desires,  he  can 
turn  aside  and  see  at  a  trifling  additional  expense 
the  great  wonders  of  Colorado  and  California 
and  the  Hawaiian  Islands.  His  journey  is  pleas- 
antly broken  up  by  having  cars  for  a  part  of  it, 


and  he  will  find  the  ocean  ride  from  San  Fran- 
cisco to  either  Melbourne  or  Sydney  long 
enough.  There  can  be  no  question  as  to  choice 
of  route  unless  it  should  be  in  the  winter  season, 
and  even  then  this  route  ought  to  be  preferable  ; 
for  while  it  breaks  up  a  long  sea  voyage,  the 
only  danger  of  interruption  from  snows  has 
proven  to  be  comparatively  little.  Sometimes 
both  Union  and  Central  Pacific  Railroads  are 
wholly  unobstructed  during  all  the  winter,  and 
the  occasional  blockades  are  never  of  long  dura- 
tion. Passengers  of  this  class  are  allowed  250 
Ibs.  of  baggage  each,  and  leave  San  Francisco 
every  four  weeks,  reckoning  from  June  10th  or 
July  8th,  1878.  The  price  of  cabin  passage  from 
San  Francisco  to  Auckland  and  Sidney  via  Hon- 
olulu is  $200,  and  berths  in  the  upper  saloon  are 
$10  extra. 


aic 


NEXT  to  the  Central  Pacific,  the  Southern  Pa- 
cific is  the  great  railroad  enterprise  of  the  Pacific 
coast.  The  whole  length  of  the  road,  1831,  is 
about  1,500  miles.  It  forms  part  of  a  great  over- 
land line  from  the  Pacific  to  the  Atlantic,  ap- 
proaching San  Francisco  without  crossing  the 
bay.  It  is  destined  to  be  one  of  the  great  high- 
ways of  the  Continent,  and  is  already  the  longest 
continuous  stretch  of  main  line  railroad,  under 
the  same  control,  in  the  United  States,  and  per- 
haps in  the  world.  The  southern  portions  are 
temporarily  worked  under  lease  to  the  Central 
Pacific.  In  connection  with  the  Central  Pacific 
and  its  other  leased  roads  and  branches,  it  forms 
one  great  system  extending  4,000  miles,  with 
688  miles  additional  of  steamer  routes. 

This  harmonious  system  is  one  of  the  most 
important  and  successful  railroad  enterprises  of 
the  continent  or  the  age.  .  By  it  the  whole  trans- 
continental traffic  must  be  performed  for  years 
to  come.  And  the  difficulties  encountered,  the 
country  opened,  the  wealth  developed,  and  the 
wonders  and  curiosities  of  nature  made  access- 
ible— all  are  marvelous. 

From  San  Francisco,  this  giant  enterprise 
stretches  down  into  the  wheat-fields  of  the  San 
Joaquin  and  the  coast  valleys  and  the  orange 
groves  of  the  South,  and  takes  fast  hold  on  the 
untold  mineral  wealth  of  Arizona,  New  Mexico, 
and  other  lands.  It  was  built  without  the  aid 
of  government  bonds,  when  railway  contractors 
in  the  East  were  idle  and  railway  shops  were 
silent;  and  built  so  rapidly  that  351  miles  of 
track  over  desert  lands  and  through  long  tunnels 
were  completed  in  the  one  year  1876. 

In  its  vigorous  prosecution,  at  enormous  cost, 
San  Francisco  and  the  coast  have  already  reaped 
many  a  substantial  blessing.  The  last  rail  con- 
necting San  Francisco  and  Los  Angeles  was  laid 
September  2d,  1876,  and  the  road  was  opened 
to  Fort  Yuma,  via  the  Central  Pacific  to  Lathrop 
and  Goshen,  on  May  5th,  1877. 

When  completed  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  it 
will  be  the  shortest  line  from  San  Francisco  to 
New  Orleans,  and  the  highway  for  the  grain  of 
Southern  California  to  the  European  markets. 

In  the  Southern  Pacific  Bailroad  are  consoli- 
dated numerous  local  roads  built  or  projected. 
These  were  the  San  Francisco  and  San  Jose  Rail- 
road, incorporated  August  18th,  1860,  and  built 
between  these  two  cities;  the  Santa  Clara  and 
Pajaro  Valley  Bailroad,  incorporated  January 
2d,  1868;  and  the  California  Southern,  incorpor- 


ated January  22d,  1870.     All  these  were  consoli- 
dated October  12th,  1870,  into  the 


Southern  Pacific  Railroad  Co. 

The  Southern  Pacific  Branch  Railroad  Company 
was  incorporated  December  23d,  1872,  and  con- 
solidated with  the  Southern  Pacific  August  19th, 
1873. 

The  Los  Angeles  and  San  Pedro  Railrcad  Com- 
pany was  incorporated  February  18th,  1868,  built 
between  Los  Angeles  and  Wilmington,  and  con- 
solidated with  the  Southern  Pacific  December 
18th,  1874. 

The  Northern  Division. — This  extends 
southward  from  the  corner  of  Fourth  and  Town- 
send  streets,  San  Francisco,  to  San  Jose",  Car- 
nadero  Junction,  and  Tres  Pinos.  From  Car- 
nadero  Junction  there  is  a  branch  to  Soledad. 
The  route  has  been  surveyed  from  Tres  Pinos 
across  the  coast  mountains  via  the  Panoche 
Pass  to  Huron,  from  which  point  40  miles  are 
built  to  Goshen,  where  a  junction  is  formed  with 
the  Visalia  Division  of  the  Central  Pacific  and  the 
Tulare  Division  of  the  Southern  Pacific.  The  40 
miles  between  Huron  and  Goshen  are  not  trav- 
eled at  present  in  going  from  San  Francisco  to 
Los  Angeles,  but  are  operated  as,  and  called,  the 
Goshen  Division  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad. 
The  branch  via  Soledad  continues  from  Carna- 
dero  to  the  Pajaro  (pronounced  PS-hS-ro)  Valley, 
thence  through  the  Salinas  Valley,  and  is  sur- 
veyed from  Soledad  across  the  coast  range  via  the 
Polonio  Pass  to  Posa,  on  the  main  line  of  the 
Southern  Pacific,  53  miles  south  of  Goshen. 


From  San  Francisco  Southward. 

This  Northern  Division  is  the  only  railroad  run- 
ning its  cars  into  San  Francisco  without  the  use  of 
a  ferry,  the  line  being  on  the  peninsula  between 
the  southern  part  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco 
and  the  Pacific  Ocean.  It  is,  therefore,  the  most 
desirable  line  for  country  residences  ;  and  when 
to  this  is  added  the  salubrity  of  climate  found  on 
this  peninsula  in  an  hour's  travel  from  the  city, it  is 
readily  understood  why  Milbrae,  San  Mateo,  Bcl- 
mont,  Redwood  City,  Fair  Oaks,  Menlo  Park, 
etc. ,  are  chosen  for  the  palaces  of  bonanza  kings, 
senators,  governors,  railroad  and  bank  presi- 
dents, and  other  men  of  culture  and  money  who 


329 


choose  their  location  where  cost  is  scarcely  ever 
considered.  To  these  delightful  country  resi- 
dences there  are  five  trains  each  way  daily,  and 
to  San  Jose  four  trains;  and  the  tourist  desiring 
to  see  the  fairest  and  best  improved  portion  of 
California  must  not  fail  to  take  one  or  more  of 
these  trains  and  extend  his  visit  to  Monterey, 
or,  at  least,  to  San  Jose. 

Leaving  San  Francisco,  you  see  the  immense 
freight  depots  of  the  Central  Pacific  and  Southern 
roads,  and  a  large  area  of  land  reclaimed  from 
Mission  Bay,  at  a  cost  of  nearly  $400,000,  owned 
jointly  by  the  two  companies  for  railroad  pur- 
poses. A  few  minutes'  ride  brings  you  to  the 
machine-shops  of  the  road,  and  in  the  southern 
part  of  the  city  the  train  stops  at 

Valencia  Street  crossing,  3.4  miles,  where 
connection  is  made  with  the  cars  of  the  Market 
Street  passenger  cable-railway. 

The  road  may  eventually  skirt  the  bay  from 
the  Fourth  Street  depot,  but  the  tourist  will  be 
pleased  if  he  can  ascend  the  steep  grade  from 
Valencia  Street  depot  and  thereby  gain  a  bird's- 
eye  view  of  a  large  part  of  the  city.  The  care- 
fully-cultivated gardens  to  be  noticed  along  the 
road  are  almost  exclusively  in  the  hands  of  Italians 
and  Chinamen. 

Bernal,  4.6  miles,  is  a  station  at  which  some 
trains  do  not  stop.  On  the  right,  after  leaving 
the  station,  are  the  grounds  of  the  House  of  Ref- 
uge, 130  acres,  with  the  imposing  edifices  of  the 
Industrial  School  and  the  House  of  Correction. 

San  Miguel,  6. 9  miles,  is  also  a  small  station, 
near  which,  on  the  left,  is  St.  Mary's  College,  a 
large  educational  institution  of  the  Roman  Catho- 
lic Church.  On  the  right  may  be  seen  Lake  Mer- 
ced, used  by  the  Spring  Valley  Water  Company 
to  supply  the  city  in  part ;  and  across  the  hills  is 
the  long  surf -line  of  the  great  Pacific  Ocean,  bat- 
tling with  the  shifting  but  unyielding  sand  ;  and 
still  beyond  is  the  bosom  of  the  great  deep.  In 
a  clear  atmosphere,  this  is  a  magnificent  view, 
taking  in  many  a  sail  and  showing  the  Farralone 
Islands  and  Point  Reyes,  north  of  the  Golden 
Gate. 

Coltna,  9.2  miles,  is  a  side  track,  at  which 
some  trains  do  not  stop. 

Baden,  12.2  miles,  is  of  like  importance. 
The  "Twelve  Mile  Farm"  is  the  residence  of 
Charles  Lux,  Esq.,  of  the  firm  of  Lux  &  Miller, 
cattle-dealers.  The  firm  own  many  and  vast 
tracts  of  land  in  different  parts  of  the  State. 

San  Bruno,  14.3  miles,  is  on  the  edge  of 
the  marsh  land  which  surrounds  the  bay,  and  the 
point  to  which  a  new  road  to  avoid  the  hills 
must  extend.  This  is  the  resort  for  more  gnnners 
than  any  other  station  in  California.  During  the 
season  for  ducks,  eighty  and  sometimes  a  hun- 
dred guns  are  checked  to  this  point  from  San 
Francisco  by  a  single  train. 

Targets  for  rifle-shooting  at  ranges  of  200,  500, 


800,  and  1000  yards  are  erected  here,  and  most  of 
the  practice  between  various  military  companies 
and  societies  is  here  enjoyed. 

Milbrae,  17  miles,  has  the  large  dairy  of  the 
same  name,  and  on  the  right  the  beautiful  resi- 
dence of  D.  O.  Mills,  Esq.,  formerly  President  of 
the  Bank  of  California,  an  engraving  of  which 
may  be  seen  on  page  245. 

Oak  Grove,  19.2  miles,  is  a  small  station, 
the  name  indicating  the  change  of  climate. 

San  Mateo,  21.1  miles,  is  a  flourishing 
town  of  nearly  2000  people,  containing  three 
churches  and  the  elegant  grounds  and  residences 
of  Alvinza  Hay  ward,  the  late  George  H.  Howard, 
and  others. 

St.  Matthew's  Military  School,  for  boys,  under 
Rev.  A.  L.  Brewer,  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  State, 
and  about  two  miles  from  the  town  is  Laurel  In- 
stitute, for  young  ladies,  a  worthy  and  flourishing 
school.  Daily  stages  leave  for  Pescadero  on  the 
arrival  of  the  8.30  train  from  San  Francisco,  fol- 
lowing the  lovely  canon  of  the  San  Mateo  Creek 
through  the  hills  four  miles  to  Crystal  Springs, 
and  thence  crossing  the  Sierra  Morena  spur  of 
the  coast  range  to  Half -Moon  Bay,  or  Spanish- 
town,  12  miles.  The  views  are  grand,  overlook- 
ing on  the  east  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  the 
mountains  and  valleys  of  Alameda  and  Contra 
Costa  counties,  with  Mt.  Diablo  rising  over  all, 
while  near  at  hand  are  the  smiling  valleys  of 
Santa  Clara  and  San  Andreas,  and  the  lovely 
Canada  del  Ramundo ;  and  overlooking  on  the 
west  the  thousand  peaks  of  the  Santa  Cruz 
Mountains  and  the  deep  blue  sea. 

Purissima  is  23  miles  from  San  Mateo,  and 
Pescadero  30  miles.  This  is  a  favorite  resort  on 
account  of  its  pebble  beach,  delightful  drives,  sea- 
bathing, picturesque  hills,  trout  streams,  forests 
abounding  in  game,  and  mild,  bracing  climate. 

At  Pescadero  stages  connect  for  Santa  Cruz,  36 
miles  south,  passing  Pigeon  Point,  where  the 
lighthouse  has  a  Fresnei  light  of  the  first  order, 
with  a  national  history.  It  shone  out  from  Cape 
Hatteras  until,  during  the  late  war,  it  was  packed 
ready  for  shipping  to  the  interior  by  the  rebels, 
but  seized  by  the  government  and  sent  to  this 
coast.  This  route  continues  mostly  along  the 
coast,  passing  Scott's  Creek  and  Laurel  Grove, 
choice  resorts  for  fishermen  and  camping  parties. 
The  stages  leave  Pescadero  Tuesdays,  Thursdays, 
and  Saturdays,  and  return  on  alternate  days. 
Fare,  $3. 

Belmont,  25.1  miles,  is  a  favorite  picnic  re- 
sort ;  and  near  the  station,  but  hidden  from  view, 
is  the  residence  of  the  late  William  C.  Ralston, 
now  owned  by  Senator  Sharon. 

Bedwood  City,  28.6  miles,  is  the  county 
seat  of  San  Mateo  County,  and  has  a  population 
of  2000,  with  four  churches.  Boats  from  the  bay 
come  up  a  small  creek,  and  return  with  cargoes 
of  redwood  from  the  coast  mountains  on  the  west 


330 


An  artesian  well  supplies  the  city  with  water, 
and  two  weekly  papers,  the  Times  and  Gazette, 
supply  the  local  news. 

A  daily  stage  leaves  for  Pescadero,  30  miles, 
passing  Sears ville,  7  miles,  and  La  Honda,  16 
miles.  Fare,  $3. 

Fair  Oaks,  30.9  miles,  is  in  the  most 
charming  portion  of  the  Santa  Clara  Valley, 
where  the  damp,  chilly  air  of  the  ocean  and  bay 
is  just  sufficiently  tempered  by  the  heat  of  the 
interior  to  produce  the  balmy  loveliness  of  Men- 
tone'. 

The  whole  region  is  divided  into  beautiful  gar- 
dens, luscious  orchards,  and  spacious  parks,  and 
set  with  charming  homes.  Among  them  are  the 
country  seats  of  Colonel  Eyre,  Faxon  D.  Atherton, 
and  others. 

There  are  twelve  species  of  oak  found  in  Cali- 
fornia, but  this  region  is  named  from  the  number 
and  beauty  of  the  white  oak;  and  on  the  trees  the 
long  Spanish  moss  will  remind  one  of  the  forests 
in  the  far  South.  The  mistletoe  is  also  abun- 
dant. 

Menlo  Park,  32.1  miles,  is  a  continuation 
of  the  attractive  features  of  the  valley.  On  the 
left,  immediately  after  passing  the  station,  is  the 
late  residence  of  ex-Gov.  M.  S.  Latham,  adorned 
with  exquisite  works  of  art  and  rare  taste.  In 
the  park,  visible  from  the  cars,  may  be  seen  a 
band  of  California  (black-tailed)  deer. 

Further  on,  and  on  the  right,  is  Palo  Alto,  the 
country  seat  of  Governor  Stanford,  named  in 
honor  of  the  original  name  of  the  Spanish  grant. 
This  was  Rancho  Palo  Alto  San  Francisquita, 
charmingly  situated,  but  neglected  when  it  came 
into  the  governor's  hands.  It  is  now  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  spots  in  California.  The  race- 
track and  breeding-farm,  where  Occident  is  at 
home,  is  perfect  in  its  apportionments,  and  has 
also  the  advantage  of  the  salubrity  of  climate 
that  best  produces  a  high  development  of  the 
physical  man  and  the  horse.  We  may  well  look 
to  this  quarter,  therefore,  to  produce  some  of  the 
best  stock  in  the  world. 

May  field,  34.9  miles,  has  about  1000  people 
and  three  churches,  and  is  situated  in  the  midst 
of  fertile  wheat-fields,  and  is  a  favorite  point  of 
departure  for  sportsmen  seeking  deer,  quail,  bear, 
and  wild-cats,  in  the  coast  mountains  on  the 
right. 

Mountain  View,  39.1  miles,  is  a  flourish- 
ing town  of  about  500  people.  The  original  town 
is  a  quiet,  unpretentious  hamlet  in  a  charming  lit- 
tle spot  a  mile  west  of  the  station  and  present 
town. 

The  Santa  Cruz  range  is  nearer  than  before, 
and  the  Contra  Costa  grows  more  distant.  Par- 
ties frequently  start  from  this  place  to  hunt  deer 
or  catch  trout  in  the  mountains  on  the  west. 

Murphy's,  41.9  miles,  is  named  from  the 
grant  on  which  the  side  track  is  laid — a  fair 


specimen  of  the  manner  in  which  the  best  parts 
of  California  were  divided  up  in  "leagues  of 
land ' '  and  granted  by  the  Mexican  Government. 

As  the  bay  receded  and  disappeared  on  the  left, 
one  must  not  forget  that  the  choice,  arable  land 
is  increased  in  extent,  and  around  Alviso,  now 
opposite,  are  numerous  gardens  from  which 
twenty  tons  of  berries  have  been  shipped  in  a  sin- 
gle day. 

Lawrence's,  43.9  miles,  is  a  station  where 
the  name  of  an  old  resident  is  perpetuated. 

Santa  Clara,  47.4  miles,  is  a  beautiful 
town  of  nearly  4000  people.  It  is  embowered  in 
the  most  luxuriant  shrubbery  and  surrounded 
with  prolific  orchards  of  choicest  fruits.  It  is 
one  of  the  oldest  and  most  delightfully  located 
towns  in  the  State. 

The  mission  was  founded  by  Father  Thomas  de 
la  Pinya  in  1777,  and  now  the  imposing  buildings 
of  the  large  (Catholic)  Santa  Clara  College  and 
St.  Mary's  Academy  will  attract  the  first  atten- 
tion of  the  tourist.  These  make  it  a  collegiate 
town.  Two  weekly  papers  are  published  here, 
the  Index  and  News.  A  stage  connects  with  the 
train  at  3.30  P.M.  from  San  Francisco  on  the 
Southern  Pacific  Railroad  for  the  Pacific  Congress 
Springs,  10  miles  south-west,  a  fashionable  and 
pleasant  resort,  with  mineral  waters  resembling 
those  of  the  famous  Congress  Spring  at  Saratoga, 
N.  Y.  Another  stage  line  extends  via  Saratoga, 
Congress  Springs,  to  Santa  Cruz,  and  supplies  a 
daily  mail  along  the  route.  Owing  to  distance 
it  is  not  a  favorite  for  through  travel,  but  on  no 
other  route  crossing  the  mountains  between  San 
Francisco  and  San  Luis  Obispo  is  the  scenery 
equal  to  this,  and  scarcely  any  view  in  California 
surpasses  the  one  from  the  summit,  looking  to 
San  Francisco,  San  Jos6,  and  the  Sierras. 

On  approaching  the  station,  the  train  stops  be- 
fore crossing  the  track  of  the  South  Pacific  Coast 
(narrow  gauge)  Railroad.  This  road  forms  a 
parallel  line  to  San  Jos6,  and  is  in  operation  from 
San  Francisco  and  Alameda  via  Newark  and  Al- 
viso to  Los  Gatos,  where  stage  connection  is 
made  for  Santa  Cruz. 

Santa  Clara  has  a  bank,  four  churches,  and 
many  beautiful  homes,  but  no  first-class  hotel. 
The  Alameda,  a  wide  and  beautifully-shaded 
avenue,  connects  Santa  Clara  with  San  Jos6. 
The  poplars  and  willows  that  meet  overhead 
were  set  out  in  1799  by  direction  of  the  early 
Catholic  missionaries.  A  line  of  horse- cars  runs 
on  the  avenue  between  the  two  towns,  and  about 
midway  on  the  road  is  the  University  of  the  Paci- 
fic, the  College  of  the  M.  E.  Church,  and  con- 
nected with  this  is  a  seminary  for  young  ladies. 
Beautiful  residences  have  so  increased  that  the 
whole  Alameda  is  now  a  fashionable  avenue, 
lined  with  elegant  homes. 

San  Jos6  (San  Ho-zay),  50  miles  from  San 
Francisco,  is  the  loveliest  inland  city  of  California. 


331 


Its  population  is  about  20,000.  It  contends  with 
Sacramento  for  the  honor  of  being  the  third  city 
in  the  State.  It  was  settled  in  1777  by  the  Cath- 
olic missionaries,  and  was  for  a  brief  period  the 
capital  of  the  State.  Without  the  advantages 
of  Sacramento  for  wholesale  trade,  it  commands 
the  trade  of  a  large  portion  of  the  State,  and  has 
a  climate  superior  to  that  of  the  capital  city.  Its 
gardens  of  semi-tropical  fruits  and  shrubs  ;  its 
abundance,  variety,  and  gracefulness  of  shade- 
trees  ;  its  well-macadamized  streets  ;  its  numerous 
and  well-supported  churches,  representing  the  Ro- 
man Catholic  and  every  important  Protestant  de- 
nomination ;  its  pure  water  from  artesian  wells 
and  the  coast  mountains  ;  its  gas-works,  and  nu- 
merous manufactories,  give  it  a  people  of  the 
highest  intelligence  and  industry,  and  ought  to 
attract  to  it  every  tourist  who  desires  to  see  what 
cultivation  will  produce  in  this  rich  and  fruitful 
State.  The  city  has  four  incorporated  banks, 
none  with  a  capital  of  less  than  half  a  million. 
It  has  a  large  woolen-mill,  canning  factories, 
wholesale  houses,  and  machine-shops. 

Its  principal  hotels  are  the  Auzerais,  St.  James, 
New  York  Exchange,  Hensley  House,  and  Lick 
House  ;  and  outside  of  San  Francisco,  no  one  in 
the  State  is  more  popular  than  the  Auzerais. 

The  city  has  four  routes  to  San  Francisco  :  (1) 
the  Southern  Pacific,  over  which  goes  four  fifths 
of  the  travel ;  (2)  a  branch  road  connecting  with 
the  Central  Pacific  at  Niles  ;  (3)  the  South  Paci- 
fic Coast  (narrow  gauge);  and  (4)  a  stage  to 
Alviso,  connecting  with  a  steamer  on  the  bay  for 
San  Francisco. 

It  has  a  daily  stage  via  Santa  Clara  for  Sarato- 
ga and  Santa  Cruz,  and  a  daily  evening  stage  for 
the  new  Almaden  Quicksilver  Mines,  ten  miles  dis- 
tant, on  Bache  Mountain.  The  tourist  visiting 
these  should  take  a  private  carriage,  or  he  will 
be  compelled  to  spend  a  night  at  a  hotel  without 
all  the  comforts  he  may  seek.  These  mines  are 
open  to  visitors  on  Thursdays  only.  They  were 
discovered  in  1845,  sought  out  from  seeing  the 
painted  faces  of  the  Indians,  and  have  been  ex- 
ceedingly productive.  Visitors  may  purchase 
specimens  of  the  ore. 

Near  the  Almaden  mines  is  the  Vichy  Spring, 
celebrated  for  its  curative  properties.  Its  waters 
are  bottled  and  sold  in  San  Francisco,  and  said  to 
be  equal  to  those  imported  from  France. 

The  Guadaloupe  Quicksilver  Mines  are  on  the 
opposite  side  of  a  spur  of  the  same  mountains. 
The  road  to  it  branches  westward  from  the  road 
to  the  new  Almaden  mines,  at  a  point  about  7 
miles  from  San  Jose".  The  two  mines  are  only 
about  two  miles  apart.  But  the  Almaden  are  the 
most  noted  for  their  productiveness  and  extent, 
and  have  yielded  more  than  any  other  quicksil- 
ver mine  in  this  country.  A  new  drive  has  been 
made  by  the  city,  extending  to  the  foot-hills  on 
the  east  to  Alum  Bock  Springs.  This  road  is  not 


surpassed  in  the  State  outside  of  San  Francisco 
and  Oakland.  It  is  of  unusual  width,  and  for 
the  whole  distance,  6  miles,  it  is  planted  on  both 
sides  with  two  rows  of  shade-trees,  and  will  even- 
tually surpass  the  noted  Alameda. 

These  springs  with  160  acres  of  ground  have 
been  set  apart  for  a  public  park. 

This  same  road  forms  part  of  that  to  Mt.  Ham- 
ilton, constructed  by  Santa  Clara  County,  to  se- 
cure the  location  of  the  magnificent  observatory 
provided  for  in  the  will  of  the  late  James  Lick 
by  a  gift  of  $700,000.  Mt.  Hamilton  is  the 
highest  peak  in  the  southern  part  of  the  coast 
range,  having  an  altitude  of  4500  feet.  The  road 
to  it  ascends  the  hills  east  of  San  Jose",  and  may 
be  seen  from  the  city  for  a  long  distance  ;  but  it 
descends  again  to  Smith's  Creek,  a  lovely  camp- 
ing spot,  before  the  ascent  of  the  mountain  ac- 
tually begins.  The  grade  is  only  five  feet  in  a 
hundred,  and  it  is  one  of  the  best  mountain 
roads  in  California,  and  will  be  surpassed  only 
by  the  new  road  to  the  Yosemite  Valley  from 
Madera  Station. 

The  distance  to  Mt.  Hamilton  is  22  miles.  To 
it  there  is  no  public  conveyance,  but  this  want 
will  doubtless  be  supplied  as  soon  as  the  Lick 
Observatory  is  completed. 

San  Jos6  has  three  daily  newspapers,  the  Mer- 
cury, Patriot,  and  Argus.  The  Mercury  and  Ar- 
gus have  also  weekly  editions. 

The  Court  House  is  a  beautiful  structure,  and  from 
its  dome  can  be  had  a  magnificent  view — a  pano- 
rama of  the  whole  Santa  Clara  Valley,  with  the 
mountains  on  the  east  and  west.  The  State  Nor- 
mal School  is  located  in  the  center  of  the  city  in 
a  park  of  six  squares,  and  is  also  a  large  and  im- 
posing structure.  San  Jose  Institute  and  Business 
College  is  well  supported,  and  the  Convent  or 
Academy  of  Notre  Dame,  under  the  auspices  of 
the  Catholic  Sisters,  is  a  large  and  flourishing  in- 
stitution, and  the  Home  Seminary  (for  girls)  de- 
servedly esteemed. 

Fourth  Street  station  is  a  mile  from  the 
principal  depot,  and  at  it  all  trains  running 
south  of  San  Jose"  stop  for  the  accommodation  of 
the  residents  in  the  southern  part  of  the  city. 

Eden,  Vale,  57.3  miles, 

Coyote,  62.8  miles,  and 

Perry's,  65.8  miles,  are  unimportant  be- 
cause near  San  Jose",  or  else  the  foot-hills  ap- 
proach on  either  side,  until  the  road  passes  into 
the  valley  in  which  Gilroy  is  found,  and  the 
country  is  best  adapted  for  grazing  purposes. 

Buildings  to  accommodate  the  workmen  of  the 
Almaden  mines  are  plainly  seen  on  the  right, 
high  up  on  the  side  of  the  mountain. 

Madrone,  68. 8  miles,  and 

Tennant's,  72.8  miles,  are  stations  having 
no  especial  attraction  for  the  tourist. 

Gilroy ,  80.3  miles,  is  an  important  town  of 
2000  inhabitants.  It  has  six  churches  and  a 


332 


weekly  newspaper,  the  Advocate.  It  is  the  only 
eating-station  on  the  line  of  the  road,  and  good 
meals  are  neatly  served  from  the  abundance  of 
the  farms  and  dairies,  at  50  cents  each. 

The  Southern  Pacific  and  Williams  are  good  ho- 
tels. The  climate  is  warmer  than  that  of  San  Jos6. 
Stages  leave  daily  for  San  Felipe,  10  miles  east, 
Los  Banos,  48  miles  east,  and  Firebaugh's  Ferry 
on  the  San  Joaquin  River,  80  miles.  The  fare 
averages  10  cents  a  mile. 

Stages  also  run  every  day  during  the  summer 
to  Oilroy  Hot  Springs,  15  miles  east.  The  waters 
have  proved  beneficial  in  rheumatic  affections, 
the  hotel  and  cottages  are  attractive,  and  the  wild 
mountain  scenery,  pine-scented  air,  wild  game  and 
trout-fishing  have  made  it  a  favorite  resort. 

Old  Oilroy  is  3  miles  south-east,  and  has  grown 
none  since  the  building  of  the  railroad.  Near 
the  town,  and  on  the  left  of  the  railroad,  may  be 
seen  a  swampy  tract,  which  is  the  edge  of  Soap 
Lake,  several  miles  long,  around  which  are  nu- 
merous fields  of  tobacco,  and  in  which  are  found 
large  numbers  of  wild  ducks  and  geese.  The 
lake  is  so  called  because  soapwort  is  abundant, 
and  its  saponine  principle  so  largely  imparted  to 
the  water  that  many  perform  their  washing  with;- 
out  soap. 

At  Carnadero,  82.5  miles,  and  2.2  miles 
south  of  Gilroy,  the  railroad  branches  ;  the  line  to 
Soledad  being  the  most  important,  and  operated 
as  the  main  branch. 

At  Gilroy  passengers  change  cars  for  Hottister 
and  Tres  Pinos. 

Hottister,  14  miles  from  Gilroy,  is  the  coun- 
ty seat  of  Benito  County,  and  has  1500  inhabit- 
ants. It  is  situated  in  a  rich  farming  region,  and 
owes  its  rapid  growth  and  prosperity  to  the  divi- 
sion and  sale  of  a  large  land-grant  owned  by  Col- 
onel Hollister. 

The  ranch  was  originally  12  leagues,  or  about 
70,000  acres,  and  purchased  from  the  grantee  for 
$20,000.  The  part  east  of  the  river  is  owned  by 
Flint,  Bixby  &  Co.,  and  <$60  per  acre  is  now  a  fair 
average  price  for  the  portion  divided  and  sold. 

Tres  Pinos ,  20.2  miles  from  Gilroy,  is  the 
present  terminus  of  this  division,  and  the  entre- 
pot for  freight  to  the  New  Idria  and  other  quick- 
silver mines  near  the  New  Idria,  San  Carlos,  and 
Cerro  Benito  peaks,  from  70  to  120  miles  south. 

A  tri- weekly  stage  runs  through  this  country  to 
San  Bruno,  25  miles,  and  New  Idria,  75  miles. 
Fare,  about  10  cents  a  mile.  Long's,  Peach-Tree, 
Brown's,  and  Bitter  Water  valleys,  and  Slack's 
Canon,  are  supplied  partly  from  Tres  Pinos  and 
partly  from  Soledad. 

North  and  south  of  Gilroy,  if  you  find  doubt  as 
to  the  ownership  of  the  land  (and  "grant  titles  " 
are  proverbially  uncertain),  you  may  call  it  one  of 
Miller  &  Lux's  farms.  TUey  are  so  numerous  that 
cattle  driven  *»  San  Francisco  are  pastured  every 
night  on  their  own  land. 


One  of  the  firm,  Mr.  Miller,  resides  on  the 
Bljoomfield  Ranch,  a  tract  of  several  thousand 
acres.  But  to  gain  a  better  idea  of  the  extent  of 
the  farming  of  this  firm,  see  under  Merced,  on  the 
Visalia  Division  of  the  Central  Pacific. 


Branch  from  Carnadero  to  Sole- 
dad. 

Sargent's,  on  this  branch,  and  86.5  miles 
from  San  Francisco,  is  named  from  J.  P.  Sargent, 
owner  of  the  ranch  a  mile  north.  It  is  the  sta- 
tion for  stage  to  San  Juan  (pronounced  San  WSn), 
South.  It  is  across  the  Pajaro  (pronounced  Pah- 
ha-ro)  River,  and  six  miles  distant.  Fare,  75 
cents.  San  Juan  South,  is  an  old  Spanish  town, 
the  seat  of  a  mission  located  in  1787,  and  second 
best  in  the  State  in  point  of  preservation.  The 
town  may  be  seen  on  the  left  a  few  minutes  after 
passing  the  station. 

The  railroad  now  follows  the  course  of  the 
river,  and  turns  westward,  then  crosses  it  from 
Santa  Cruz  to  San  Benito  County,  and  then,  to 
shorten  the  distance,  passes  through  a  tunnel  950 
feet  long  and  into  the  Pajaro  Valley,  9  miles  long 
and  5  miles  wide. 

On  the  right  are  the  Santa  Cruz  (Coast  Range) 
Mountains,  and  in  the  canons  lingering  traces  of 
the  beautiful  Redwoods. 

Vega,  96.5  miles,  is  a  signal  station;  but 

Pajaro,  99.4  miles,  is  an  important  station, 
receiving  the  freight  of  the  valley  in  which  it  is 
situated,  and  being  the  junction  of  the  Santa 
Cruz  branch  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad' 
formerly  the  Santa  Cruz  Narrow  Gauge  Rail- 
road. In  1881,  this  narrow  gauge  was  purchased 
and  converted  into  a  road  of  the  standard  width. 

This  branch  is  21j£  miles  long,  but  has 
no  important  station  on  it,  until  Aptos  is 
reached,  on  the  Bay  of  Monterey,  where  the 
beach  is  excellent,  and  a  first-class  watering- 
place  has  been  made. 

Soquel,  5  miles  from  Santa  Cruz,  is  a  little 
village  at  which  hundreds  "  camp  out "  during 
the  summer. 

Santa  Cruz,  the  terminus  of  this  branch,  is 
also  the  terminus  of  the  South  Pacific  Coast 
Narrow  Gauge  Railroad,  which  see. 

This  forms  an  all-rail  route  to  the  most  fre- 
quented seaside  resort  on  the  coast,  for  which 
see  the  "  Santa  Cruz  Railroad." 

Watsonvitte,  across  the  Pajaro  River  from 
the  station,  and  a  mile  distant,  has  a  population 
of  3500,  a  good  hotel — the  Lewis  House — four 
churches,  a  bank,  and  two  weekly  papers,  the 
Pajaronian  and  the  Transcript. 

The  river  empties  into  the  ocean,  but  furnishes 
no  landing  for  vessels.  Formerly  there  was  a 
landing-place,  "  The  Embarcadero, "  about  a  mile 


333 


north  of  the  river,  but  the  wharf  is  now  neglected 
and  the  town  receives  its  freight  either  by  the 
Southern  Pacific  Railroad  or  via  Santa  Cruz. 

Watsonvitte  Landing,  on  Elkhorn  Slough, 
is  about  three  miles  south  of  the  town,  and  to 
this  point  freight  was  formerly  brought  by  a 
small  stern-wheel  lighter  from  Moss  Landing,  on 
the  coast  of  Monterey  Bay,  about  two  miles  south 
of  the  mouth  of  the  Salinas  River,  and  twelve 
miles  from  Watsonville. 

The  course  of  the  railroad  from  Pajaro  is  now 
parallel  with  the  general  line  of  the  coast,  and 
crosses  the  tide-lands  that  skirt  the  eastern  shore 
of  Monterey  Bay.  The  Santa  Cruz  Mountains 
are  now  behind  to  the  left,  and  on  the  right  are 
the  Gabilan  Mountains,  which  extend  from  the 
Pajaro  River  through  the  entire  county.  The 
range  increases  in  height  as  we  go  south,  and 
contains  immense  deposits  of  limestone  and  some 
quicksilver.  The  climate  from  Watsonville  to 
Salinas  is  like  that  of  San  Francisco,  modified 
because  further  south,  and  the  ocean  winds  are 
less  severe. 

Castroville,  109.7  miles,  is  4  miles  from 
Moss  Landing,  and  has  a  population  of  500. 
The  average  yield  of  wheat  in  this  vicinity  now 
reaches  30  bushels  to  the  acre,  and  of  barley  50 
bushels,  although  100  bushels  of  the  latter  have 
been  raised  to  the  acre.  Owing  to  the  fogs  and 
damp  winds,  corn  and  potatoes  are  grown  in  this 
region.  Considerable  game  is  shipped  during 
the  winter,  the  salt  marsh  affording  water-fowl, 
and  the  Gabilan  Mountains  quail  and  deer. 

Castroville  is  the  point  of  junction  for  the  Mon- 
ter-y  Branch.  For  "Monterey,"  see  "Health 
and  Pleasure  Resort."  pages  306  and  307. 

Salinas,  117.6  miles,  is  the  county  town  of 
Monterey  County,  and  has  a  population  of  3,000. 
There  are  eight  church  organizations  and  about 
as  many  lodges  and  benevolent  orders.  It  is  the 


center  of  trade,  wealth,  and  commerce  for  Mon- 
terey County,  and  has  banks,  machine-shops, 
foundries,  flouring-mills,  and  factories. 

There  is  a  fine  hotel,  the  Abbot  House;  two 
papers  are  published  weekly,  the  7W<?;randthe 
Democrat.  Stages  leave  daily  for  Natividad,  a 
pleasant  little  town  at  the  foot  of  the  Gabilan 
Mountains,  six  miles  north-east  of  Salinas,  and 
for  New  Republic,  three  miles  east. 

Chualar,  128.5  miles,  is  a  new  town  in  the 
Salinas  Valley,  where  a  large  business  is  done  in 
raising  cattle  and  sheep. 

Gonzales,  134.5  miles,  is  another  new  and 
small  but  promising  town. 

Soledad,  142.9  miles,  is  the  present  termi- 
nus of  this  division,  and  derives  its  chief  import- 
ance from  this  fact.  Until  the  completion  of  the 
road  to  Los  Angeles,  the  mails  to  Southern  Cali- 
fornia went  to  Soledad  by  rail,  and  now  overland 
passengers  for  San  Luis  Obispo  and  Paso  Robles 
Hot  Springs  here  take  stages  of  the  coast  line  for 
these  points.  These  stages  of  this  line  run  to 
Lowe's,  28  miles  ;  Solon,  40  miles;  Paso  Robles 
Hot  Springs,  80  miles  ;  San  Luis  Obispo,  110 
miles  ;  Arroyo  Grande,  125  miles  ;  Guadaloupe, 
140  miles  ;  Santa  Barbara,  220  miles  ;  and  there 
connect  with  stages  for  San  Buena  Ventura,  30 
miles,  and  Newhall,  80  miles.  The  fare  is  about 
8  cents  a  mile. 

Another  stage  leaves  daily  for  Paraiso  Springs, 
eight  miles  south-west  of  Soledad.  They  are  in 
a  horseshoe-shaped  plateau  about  1500  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  valley,  affording  a  charming  land- 
scape, and  with  curative  powers  becoming  quite 
celebrated.  The  four  springs  are  of  soda,  sul- 
phur, chalybeate  of  iron,  and  chloride  of  potassi- 
um, and  vary  from  cold  to  118°  Fahrenheit. 
Game  is  abundant,  the  table  is  well  supplied,  the 
cottages  neat,  and  every  thing  combines  to  make 
this  as  popular  as  the  well-known  and  justly-cele- 
brated Paso  Robles. 


a<ftw 


THIS  great  transcontinental  route,  below  the 
snow  line,  and  the  second  railroad  built  across 
the  Continent,  is  an  overland  route  formed  by 
operating  a  number  of  :oads,  underlease  to  the 
Pacific  Railroad  Company.  In  connection  with 
the  Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe  Railroad, 
atDeming  it  forms  a  through  line  to  Kansas 
City  and  the  East.  An  afternoon  train  on  this 
route  has  a  sleeper  for  Yosemite  Valley  pas- 
sengers. 

Leaving  San  Francisco  by  this  route,  one 
starts  from  the  foot  of  Market  Street,  where  he 
landed  if  he  came  direct  from  Ogden,  and  crosses 
Oakland,  where  he  takes  the  elegant  silver 
palace  car,  and  travels  from  Oakland  over  the 
Northern  Railway  past  Port  Costa,  on  the  Straits 
of  Carquinez,  to  the  junction  of  the  San  Pablo 
and  Tnlare  Railroad  near  Martinez. 

Martinez,  35.6  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
a  pretty  little  town  of  800  people,  the  county 
town  of  Contra  Costa  County,  and  the  best  point 
to  take  stages  or  carriages  to  ascend  Mt.  Diablo. 
The  distance  from  Martinez  is  21  miles,  and  Mr. 
Wm.  Bennett's  stages  are  of  the  most  approved 
pattern.  The  ascent  can  be  made  by  leaving  San 
Francisco  in  the  morning  and  remaining  over- 
night on  the  mountain,  and  returning  to  the  city 
at  noon  the  next  day.  Sunset  or  sunrise  or  both 
may  thus  be  had  from  the  summit,  and  in  but 
little  more  than  twenty-four  hours.  It  is  the  best 
view  near  the  city,  commanding  the  Sierras  from 
Lassen's  Butte  on  the  north  to  the  High  Sierras  on 
the  south,  and  looking  over  the  Coast  Range  out 
on  the  broad  Pacific — surveying  at  once  an  area  of 
32,000  square  miles,  greatly  diversified  with 
ocean,  river,  city,  mountain,  garden,  and  desert. 

Martinez  has  stages  to  Pacheco,  Concord, 
Walnut  Creek  and  Danville — small  towns  near 
the  foot  of  Mt.  Diablo,  and  is  connected  with 
Benicia,  by  a  steam  ferryboat.  Benicia  and  the 
United  States  Arsenal  are  to  be  seen  across  the 
water. 

A. von,  39.1  miles,  is  a  small  station,  and  so  is 

Bay  Point,  42.2  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
the  nearest  approach  to  Mt.  Diablo.  Suisun 
Bay  is  close  at  hand  opposite  the  mountains. 
This  point  is  a  favorite  resort  for  shooting  wild 
ducks  and  geese.  Near  Bay  Point  our  road 
crosses  a  freight  railroad  from  the  coal  mines  of 
Mt.  Diablo  at  Somerville  to  Pittsburg  Landing 
at  tide-water. 


HfcAvoy  is  a  side  track,  and 
Cornwall,  49.9  miles  from  San  Francisco,  a 
station  on  the  "  New   York  ranch."     This  large 
tract  is  one  of  the  Spanish  grants,  covering  so 
much  of  California,  and  called  Los  Medanos. 

At  Cornwall  the  train  will  pass  beneath  the 
track  of  a  freight  railroad,  to  convey  coal  from 
Nortonville  on  Mt.  Diablo  to  tide-water  at  New 
York  Landing — seen  on  the  left;  and  soon  be- 
neath the  track  of  a  second  similar  road  from 
the  same  mountain  to  Antioch.  Mt.  Diablo  is 
the  only  extensive  coal  deposit  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  San  Francisco. 

Antioch,  54  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is  on 
the  San  Joaquin  River.  It  is  a  pleasant  little 
village  of  300  people,  and  has  a  sprightly  weekly 
paper,  the  Ledger.  At  Antioch^  ocean  vessels 
have  taken  their  cargoes. 

Near  Antioch  is  the  confluence  of  the  Sacra- 
mento and  San  Joaquin  rivers. 

Brentwood,  62.7  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
is  a  small  station  on  the  Marsh  (or  Los  Meganos) 
ranch. 

Syr  on,  67.8  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
near  a  landing  on  Old  San  Joaquin  River. 

Betliany,  76.6  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
also  a  small  station  near  Wickland  on  Old  River. 

Tracy  Junction  is  3  miles  west  of  Bantas, 
and  83  miles  from  San  Francisco.  The  route 
from  Antioch  to  the  junction  has  been  southeast. 
On  the  right  are  the  high  hills  of  the  Coast 
Range  and  Mt.  Diablo,  around  three  sides  of 
which  the  road  goes.  On  the  left  are  the  low 
lands  of  the  San  Joaquin  River. 

At  this  point  the  San  Pablo  and  Tulare  Rail- 
road ends  at  present,  and  the  overland  tourist 
takes  the  main  line  of  the  Central  Pacific  Rail- 
road as  far  as  Lathrop. 

For  Bantas,  San  Joaquin  Bridge  and  Lathrop, 
see  pages  312  and  313. 

Lathrop  is  the  eating-station  for  all  passengers 
to  the  Yosemite  Valley  or  the  East. 

At  Lathrop  the  trains  will  take  the  Visalia 
Division  of  the  Central  Pacific  Railroad,  157 
miles  to  Goshen.  The  course  is  now  southward, 
through  the  San  Joaquin  Valley. 

San  Joaquin  Valley. — This  great  valley 
has  the  Sierra  Nevada  on  the  east  and  the  Coast 
Range  on  the  west,  is  about  250  miles  long,  and 
from  20  to  150  miles  wide.  The  area  is  25,000 
square  miles.  The  greater  portion  of  the  land  is 


335 


a  sandy  loam,  easily  tilled.  There  are  but  a  few 
trees,  but  the  farmers  have  begun  to  plant  exten- 
sively. Frequent  patches  of  the  black,  tenacious, 
alluvial  soil,  called  adobe  are  found,  in  which  the 
sun  cracks,  visible  during  summer,  faintly  sug- 

fest  earthquakes.     A  hundred   miles  of  wheat 
elds  may  be  seen  in  the  valley,  broken  only  by 
roads  and  fences. 

This  immense  valley,  with  a  surrounding  belt 
of  timber  for  lumber  and  fuel,  coal,  iron,  and  the 
precious  metals  bordering  it,  adapted  for  grow- 
ing the  grains  and  fruits  of  two  zones,  is  des- 
•  tined  to  have  a  teeming  population  and  fabulous 
wealth.  Irrigation  will  supply  the  lack  of  sum- 
mer rains  when  needed.  The  summer  tourist 
The  beautiful  mantle  of  green  that  covers  the 
earth,  in  winter  and  spring,  is  here  turned  to 
hay  in  summer,  without  any  artificial  process. 
The  juices  of  the  grass  are  stored,  the  seeds 
ripened,  and  the  roots  die,  and  seeds  sprout 
again. 

It  is  in  passing  through  such  portions  of  the 
country  as  this  that  the  traveler  comprehends 
more  fully  than  ever  before  the  vast  resources 
of  our  wonderful  land.  It  is  by  no  means  only 
in  the  extent  of  its  square  miles  that  this  coun- 
try is  great,  but  on  account  of  the  fertility  of 
its  vast  reaches  of  land,  unequalled  in  any  other 
portion  of  the  globe,  on  account  of  the  immense 
wealth — so  immense  as  to  be  incomprehensible 
— of  its  mines,  developed  and  yet  undeveloped, 
and  on  account  of  its  variety  of  climate,  rang- 
ing from  the  fierce  winter  equal  to  that  of  the 
Northern  circle,  down  through  the  scale  com- 
prehending nearly  all  qualities  of  climate  to  be 
found  in  the  old  worlds,  to  the  hottest  and  most 
tropical  of  summers  and  winters.  Its  resources 
are  to  be  found  in  its  fertile  lands  yet  lying  un- 
cultivated, but  which,  when  occupied  and  tilled, 
are  capable  of  supplying  the  whole  of  a  w»rld 
as  large  as  ours  for  centuries  to  come  with  food. 
People  of  all  nations  may  here  find  homes  suit- 
able and  agreeable  to  them;  for  we  have  the 
climate  of  the  Arab  as  well  as  that  of  the 
Northman.  Through  the  deserts  and  on  the 
plains  of  Kansas  herds  of  wild  camels  are  to  be 
found.  They  were  imported  for  carrying  pur- 
poses, but  proved  impracticable  and  compara- 
tively useless  against  quicker  and  better  modes 
of  transportation,  so  were  turned  loose  to  live 
or  die,  as  might  be.  They  lived,  and  are  now 
thriving  and  multiplying,  so  that  at  no  distant 
date  it  is  supposed  herds  of  camels  will  be  as 
common  a  sight  on  the  plains  of  Kansas  as  the 
presence  of  buffaloes.  This  instance  is  but  one 
small  indication  of  the  many  others,  of  the 
adaptability,  we  might  say,  of  this  country  to 
the  wants  of  the  living  things  of  almost  every 
other  land  in  the  world.  To  a  person  of  senti- 
ment with  a  full  knowledge  of  the  course  of 
events  occurring  in  the  late  centuries,  it  seems 
as  if  this  immense  country,  with  its  sparsely 


settled  population  of  inferior  beings,  had  been 
prepared  for  the  reception  and  lay  waiting  for 
the  arrival  of  Europe's  wealth  of  animal  life; 
life,  he  would  suppose,  that  had  become  so  far 
advanced,  that  had  run  on  in  the  t oad  of  im- 
provement so  far  before  the  other  lives  in  th/3 
nations  of  the  Old  "World,  that  newer  aud 
greater  facilities  for  the  exercise  of  their  powers 
were  needed,  for  which  Providence  gave  them 
this  country;  and  to-day,  a  few  hundred  years 
from  the  date  of  its  discovery,  the  busy  mil- 
lions that  are  now  opening  up  its  resources  are 
very,  very  few  compared  to  the  hosts  of  as  many 
centuries  in  the  future.  The  majority  of  the 
States  individually  have  resources  enough  to 
support  European  nations.  Its  scenery  too, 
surpasses  that  of  the  Old  World,  and  now  the 
tide  of  sight-seers  is  setting  toward  the  West, 
for  there  it  is  the  traveled  man  will  aver  the 
beauties  of  nature  are  unsurpassed,  in  the 
accumulation  of  grand  and  gigantic  moun- 
tains, seemingly  piled  one  above  the  other,  until 
the  lofty  heads  of  the  greatest  ones  pierce  a  sky 
as  blue  and  clear  as  any  Italy  can  boast  of.  In 
the  curious  and  the  novel,  in  the  weird 
and  the  dreamlike,  in  the  beautiful  and  the 
lovely,  the  scenery  of  this  country  is  su- 
preme. We  may  well  look  upon  and  think 
of  our  country  and  be  proud  that  we  live 
in  it. 

Morrano,  88.3  miles  from   San  Francisco, 

is  a  side  track  and  warehouse  for  shipping  grain. 

Ripon,  93  miles,  is  another  side  track  and 

small  station,  near  which  the  Stanislaus  River  is 

crossed. 

Snlida,  96  miles,  is  a  similar  station  ;   and 
Modesto,  102.8  miles,  is  the  county  seat  of 
Stanislaus  (pronounced  Stan-is-law)  County.     In 
1870,  when  the  town  was  laid  out,  it  was  pro- 
posed to  name  it  after  the  late  Wm.  C.  Ralston, 
but  his  modesty  forbade ;  hence  the  name,  the 
Spanish  for   modesty.     It   has   a  population  of 
•1500,  and  is  situated  near  the  Tuolumne  River. 
Ceres,  107.4  miles, 
Turlock,  115.9  miles, 
Cressey,  126  miles,  and 

Atwater,  132.7  miles,  are  side  tracks  for 
shipping  grain. 

Between  Turlock  and  Cressey  the  Merced 
River  is  crossed,  flowing  down  and  out  of  the 
Yosemite  Valley. 

Merced,  140.2  miles,  was  located  through 
the  exertion  of  Mr.  C.  H.  Hoffman,  a  prominent 
land-owner,  soon  after  the  railroad  was  built,  and 
has  now  become  the  county  seat  of  Merced  Coun- 
ty, and  the  point  of  departure  for  the  Yosemite 
Valley  via  Coulterville  or  Mariposa. 

The  large  hotel  on  the  left  of  the  road — the  El 
Capitan — was  erected  by  the  railroad  company 
to  provide  .for  the  greater  comfort  of  tourists.  It 
is  one  of  the  most  commodious  structures  for  the 
purpose  outside  of  San  Francisco.  The  Court 


336 


TMS 


House  is  a  credit  to  the  town  and  county.  It 
cost  $75,000,  and  is  the  best  in  the  San  Joaquin 
Valley. 

Artesian  wells  are  numerous.  In  one  of  Mr. 
Hoffman's  the  water  rises  to  within  ten  feet  of 
the  surface  and  is  then  pumped  by  steam,  dis- 
charging at  the  rate  of  30,000  gallons  every 
hour. 

There  are  two  weekly  papers,  the  San  Joaquin 
Valley  Argus  and  the  Merced  Express.  The 
plain,  especially  toward  the  river,  ten  miles  dis- 
tant, abounds  with  hare,  or  the  ' '  jackass  rabbit ' ' 
(Lepus  Calif ornicus),  and  Merced  is  the  starting- 
point  of  numerous  coursing  matches. 

Much  of  the  land  is  owned  in  large  tracts. 
One  of  the  farms  of  Miller  &  Lux  is  near  this 
place.  It  is  ninety-seven,  miles  long,  with  an 
average  width  of  fifteen  miles. 

In  two  years  they  built  on  it  780  miles  of 
fence,  costing  $800  a  mile.  On  this  ranch  are 
kept  150  saddle-horses  :  and  two  oxen,  besides 
calves,  hogs,  and  sheep,  are  killed  every  other 
day  for  the  workmen.  It  is  said  they  can  begin 
to  drive  cattle  at  Los  Angeles  and  stop  on  their 
own  land  every  night  until  they  reach  San  Fran- 
cisco. They  send  to  the  city  1800  oxen  every 
month. 

Leaving  Merced,  we  cross  a  large  number  of 
sloughs  and  creeks,  but  all  decrease  in  size  as  they 
go  toward  the  river,  and  finally  spread  out  over 
the  plain  or  sink. 

flainsburg,  150.1  miles,  is  a  small  station 
on  Deadman's  Creek. 

Mintum,  156.5  miles,  is  another  small  sta- 
tion, not  far  from  Ash  Slough. 

Berenda,  166  miles,  is  also  a  new  railroad 
town.  Soon  after  leaving  this  place  the  Fresno 
River  is  crossed. 

Made r a,  173.5  miles,  is  a  new  town, 
started  in  1876,  and  has  t\  population  of  400.  It 
is  the  terminus  of  a  V-shaped  flume,  53  miles 
long,  by  which  lumber  is  brought  along  the  Fres- 
no River  from  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
Fresno  groves  of  Big  Trees.  It  is  owned  by  the 
California  Lumber  and  Flume  Company.  The 
company  have  a  planing-mill  at  Madera.  The 
Fresno  River  supplies  water  also  for  extensive  ir- 
rigation, and  the  ditches  may  be  seen  on  the 
right  of  the  railroad. 

From  Madera  nearly  all  tourists  leave  the 
railroad  for  the  Yosemite  Valley.  At  this  point 
a  sleeping-car  is  detached  from  the  train  leaving 
San  Francisco  at  4  p.  M.,  and  remains  upon  a 
side  track  until  morning,  thus  insuring  a  full 
night's  rest. 

Borden,  176.3  miles^  is  a  town  of  200  peo- 
ple; the  surrounding  country  having  the  bene- 
fit of  the  water  brought  from  the  Fresno  River. 
Cottonwood  Creek  may  be  noticed  when  filled 
by  the  winter  rains.  It  is  crossed  after  leaving 
the  station. 


Sycamore,  185.3  miles,  is  a  side  track,  but 
marks  the  crossing  of  the  San  Joaquin  River,  at 
the  head  of  navigation  for  steamers  during  the 
high  water  of  the  winter  season. 

Fresno,  195.1  miles,  is  the  county  seat  of 
Fresno  County,  with  a  population  of  nearly  1000. 
The  Court  House  is  the  largest  building,  and  cost 
$60,000.  The  soil  is  mostly  good,  but  crops  can 
be  secured  only  by  irrigation.  A  stage  runs  to 
Centerville,  in  the  foot-hills,  17  miles  east. 

Two  weekly  newspapers  are  published  here, 
the  Fresno  Expositor  and  the  Republican. 

The  town  has  a  bank,  and  does  a  large  business* 
with  the   surrounding  country.     One  firm  sells 
$120,000  per  year,  and  the  receipts  for  passen- 
gers and  freight  are  $70, 000  a  month. 

The  town  is  located  on  a  rich,  alluvial,  sandy 
plain,  between  the  King  and  San  Joaquin  rivers, 
and  the  abundance  of  water  for  irrigation  and 
the  canals  built  and  projected  destine  this  to  be 
one  of  the  most  fruitful  portions  of  the  whole 
State.  There  are  five  hotels,  the  principal  being 
the  Henry  House. 

The  Central  California  Colony  is  located  on 
these  rich  lands,  where  the  growth  of  trees, 
shrubs,  and  alfalfa  is  astonishing.  The  lots  are 
40  acres  each  and  are  sold  on  small  installments, 
and  are  worthy  the  attention  of  settlers  with 
small  means. 

Fowler,  204.7  miles, 

Kingsbury,  215.2  miles,  and 

Cross  Creek,  223.3  miles,  are  small  stations. 

King's  River,  which  is  crossed  between  Kings- 
bury  and  Cross  Creek,  rises  in  the  high  Sierras. 
The  course  of  the  railroad  being  parallel  to 
the  axis  of  the  Sierras,  the  traveler  has  a  succes- 
sion of  magnificent  and  ever-changing  views. 

Goshen,  229.1  miles,  is  where  the  Southern 
Pacific  Railroad  connects  with  the  Visalia  branch 
of  the  Central.  The  northern  terminus  of  this 
part  of  the  Southern  Pacific  is  not  at  Goshen  but 
at  Huron,  40  miles  west  of  Goshen.  These  40 
miles  are  the  Goshen  Division  of  the  Southern  Pa- 
cific. 

On  the  GOSHEN  division, 

Hanford  is  12.9  miles  from  Goshen,  in  what 
is  called  the  Mussel  Slough  country,  a  region  on 
the  north  of  Tulare  Lake,  embracing  one  of  the 
richest  portions  of  the  State.  Five  crops  of  al- 
falfa may  be  cut  during  the  year.  Corn  grows 
to  a  height  of  twelve  to  eighteen  feet,  but  the 
yield  does  not  exceed  sixty  or  seventy  bushels  to 
the  acre.  Pumpkins  are  immense. 

Lemoore,  20. 9  miles  from  Goshen,  is  a  new  and 
promising  village. 

Heinlen  is  22.5  miles  from  Goshen,  and 

Huron,  40  miles.  All  these  are  in  the  Mussel 
Slough  country — a  country  well-known  from  the 
resistance  of  the  settlers  to  the  efforts  of  the  rail' 
road  company  to  eject  them,  and  the  bloodshed 
tiaused  thereby.  Huron  is  the  terminus. 


337 


At  Goshen  there  is  another  branch  railroad  to 
Visalia.  It  is  only  seven  miles  long,  and  was 
built  by  the  people  of  Visalia,  the  principal  and 
county  town  of  Tulare  County. 

This  Visat/ia  Railroad  is  wholly  independent  of 
the  Central  and  Southern  Pacific  roads,  the  presi- 
dent and  manager  being  R.  E.  Hyde,  Esq.,  of 
Visalia. 

Visalia  is  an  old  town,  laid  out  shortly  after 
the  occupation  of  the  country  by  the  Americans. 
It  has  a  population  of  about  2000  ;  one  of  the 
best  court  houses  in  the  San  Joaquin  Valley 
south  of  Stockton  ;  six  hotels,  three  churches,  a 
substantial  bank,  several  mills,  gas  and  water 
works,  and  three  weekly  papers — the  Delta, 
Times,  and  Iron  Age.  A  United  States  land  of- 
fice is  located  here. 

Soon  after  leaving  Goshen,  there  is  a  tangent 
to  Lerdo — 50  miles — the  longest  piece  of  straight 
track  on  the  road'. 

Tulare,  239.6  miles  from  San  Francisco,  has 
a  population  of  nearly  1000,  and  a  round-house 
for  the  Tulare  Division  of  the  Southern  Pacific 
Railroad. 

It  is  an  important  point  for  shipping  wood  and 
"wool.  The  eucalyptus-tree  may  be  seen  growing 
luxuriantly  wherever  planted. 

This  part  of  the  great  San  Joaquin  Valley  is  of- 
ten called  the  Tulare  Valley.  It  is  only  327  feet 
above  the  sea-level,  and  is  well  timbered.  The 
groves  of  beautiful  oaks  are  like  natural  parks  in- 
viting occupancy. 

Tulare  Lake  lies  south-west,  is  nearly  circular 
in  form,  30  miles  long,  and  covers  an  area  of  700 
square  miles.  It  abounds  in  fish  and  water-fowl. 
After  leaving  Tulare,  the  railroad  crosses  Tulare 
River,  a  narrow  channel,  and  reaches 

Tipton,  250  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
where  the  character  of  the  land  changes,  the 
groves  disappearing. 

Alila,  262  miles, 

Delano,  270.3  miles,  and 

Posa,  282. 1  miles,  are  small  stations  on  the 
great  plain ;  and 

L/erdo,  290.1  miles,  is  a  station  of  the  same 
character,  but  the  shipping-point  for  the  Buena 
Vista  Oil  Works,  about  40  miles  south-west.  The 
oil  region  does  not  bid  fair  to  rival  Pennsylva- 
nia's, but  Calif ornians  are  always  looking  for 
new  and  rich  developments.  Lerdo  is  the  pro- 
posed point  of  junction  with  the  branch  of  the 
Northern  Division,  now  built  to  Soledad,  to  be 
extended  through  the  Polonio  Pass. 

Near  the  next  station  the  railroad  crosses 
King's  River,  flowing  from  the  high  Sierras  and 
the  glaciers  of  Mounts  Tyndall  and  Whitney,  and 
running  south  in  these  high  Sierras  from  these 
peaks  directly  east  of  Visalia  until  east  of  Sum- 
ner.  After  flowing  a  long  distance  to  the  west, 
the  river  turns  to  the  north  and  flows  into  Tulare 
Lake. 


Where  the  Kern  River  leaves  the  mountains 
and  turns  toward  the  plain  is  Walker's  Pass 
(through  the  Sierras),  thence  a  road  north  to 
Owen's  Lake,  into  which  a  river  of  the  same 
name  flows.  The  lake  is  about  20  miles  long  and 
10  wide. 

Summer,  302.5  miles,  is  a  busy  point,  with 
a  population  of  about  300.  It  is  the  depot  for 
Bakersfield,  the  principal  town  in  what  is  called 
the  Kern  Valley,  and  county  town  of  Kern  County. 
Kern  Valley,  like  Tulare,  is  a  part  of  the  San  Jo- 
aquin. The  land  is  a  rich  sedimentary  deposit. 
In  this  valley  are  the  most  extensive  irrigat- 
ing canals  and  ditches  to  be  found  in  the  State. 
Some  are  40  miles  long  and  275  feet  wide  and  8 
feet  deep.  A  system  has  also  been  adopted  to 
reclaim  swamp  lands  in  the  valley,  by  which 
65,000  acres  will  be  brought  into  market.  On  all 
these  lands  water  is  abundant,  and  two  crops  can 
be  raised  each  year.  Sweet  potatoes  are  found 
weighing  24  pounds  each,  alfalfa  producing 
seven  crops  of  from  one  to  two  tons  each  to  the 
acre,  and  corn  producing  from  60  to  120  bushels 
per  acre  ;  and  the  growth  of  cotton  has  been  suc- 
cessfully tried,  producing  400  pounds  to  the  acre. 

On  one  of  the  ranches  of  Messrs.  Hoggin. 
&  Carr,  of  San  Francisco,  two  artesian  wells, 
260  and  300  feet  deep,  send  water  12  feet  above 
the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  discharge  each 
through  a  seven-inch  pipe  from  3,000  to  4,000 
gallons  per  hour.  They  have  on  this  ranch  a 
dairy  of  300  cows,  a  large  apiary,  4,000  stock 
cattle,  besides  horses,  mules,  sheep,  hogs,  and 
3,500  acres  in  alfalfa.  They  have  expended  im- 
mense sums  of  money  in  constructing  irrigat- 
ing ditches.  A  plow  once  used  here,  the  ' '  Great 
Western,"  is  the  largest  in  the  world,  and  re- 
quires eighty  oxen  with  a  ton  of  chains  and  a 
ton  of  ox  yokes  to  use  it,  and  cuts  a  furrow 
five  feet  wide,  and,  if  necessary,  three  feet 
deep,  at  the  rate  of  eight  miles  a  day.  Another 
plow,  "Sampson,"  a  little  smaller,  requires 
from  thirty  to  forty  mules  for  use  in  ditching. 

Messrs.  Carr  &  Haggin  have  a  number  of 
ranches  in  this  valley,  aggregating  600,000  acres, 
and  on  them  at  times  100,000  sheep.  They 
raised  350  bushels  of  sweet  potatoes  to  the 
acre.  One  half  acre  of  sweet  potatoes  yielded 
$150.  They  sell  or  lease  lands  in  small  lots. 

One  man  moved  on  40  acres  of  hind  April 
26th,  1877,  and  on  November  1st,  1877,  had 
grown  and  sold  $2,000  worth  of  corn,  beans  and 
pumpkins.  But  it  is  said  to  be  hot  and  malarious. 

The  town  of  Bakersfield  has  a  population  of 
about  1000,  good  public  buildings,  a  bank,  two 
weekly  papers,  the  Courier- Calif ornian  and  the 
Gazette. 

At  Sumner  the  grade  begins  for  ascending  the 
Sierras,  but  just  before  reaching  Pampa  there  is  a 
descent  of  about  80  feet  to  cross  Basin  Creek  (so 
named  from  Walker's  Basin  on  the  east),  after 


338 


which  the  ascent  is  resumed  and  the  road  soon 
follows  Caliente  Creek,  crossing  and  recrossing 
it  a  number  of  times. 

J*ainpa,  317.5  miles,  is  a  small  station. 

Caliente,  324.8  miles,  has  an  elevation  of  1290 
feet.  It  is  at  the  junction  of  the  Caliente  and 
Tehachapi  creeks.  The  axis  of  the  Sierras  runs 
south-west  about  20  miles  from  Caliente  to  Te- 
jon  (Tay-hone)  Pass.  Caliente  was  long  the 
southern  terminus  of  the  Tulare  Division,  and 
stages  ran  from  this  point  to  the  railroad  20 
miles  north  of  Los  Angeles.  It  is  now  the  ship- 
ping-point for  considerable  freight. 

Stages  leave  daily  for  Havilah,  25  miles,  and 
Kernville,  45  miles,  both  in  Kern  County  and 
north-east  of  this  station.  The  population  is 
only  100. 


Tehachapi  Pass. 

The  Tehachapi  Creek  flows  down  the  mountain 
from  the  south-east,  and  at  Caliente  one  can  look 
directly  up  the  Tehachapi  Canon  for  some  dis- 
tance. 

As  one  approached  the  station,  he  saw  the  rail- 
road on  the  right  only  a  short  distance  away  ;  and 
on  leaving  the  station,  the  train  bends  around  the 
few  houses  and  goes  down  the  creek,  but  it  con- 
tinues and  increases  its  steep  and  wonderful  climb. 
For  twenty  miles  the  grade,  including  curvature, 
is  116  feet  to  the  mile.  So  accurately  and  con- 
stantly are  the  grades  and  curvatures  adjusted 
to  one  another,  with  reference  to  obtaining  a  uni- 
form traction,  that  the  whole  is  a  piece  of  work 
not  only  unique  in  plan  but  unsurpassed  in  exe- 
cution. A  writer  of  world-wide  travel  calls  it  a 
remarkable  triumph  of  engineering  science,  and 
says,  "  I  know  of  nothing  like  it,  unless  it  be  the 
road  over  the  Styrian  Alps  from  Vienna  to  Trieste  ; 
and  even  there,  if  I  remember  rightly,  the  track 
does  not  literally  cross  itself."  Prof.  George 
Davidson,  of  the  United  States  Coast  Survey, 
says  it  is  not  equaled  by  any  railroad  engineer- 
ing he  has  seen  in  America  or  Europe.  It  is  a 
marvel  of  genius  and  perfection  that  will  give 
lasting  honor  to  Colonel  George  E.  Gray,  the  Chief 
Engineer  of  the  road,  and  to  his  efficient  assist- 
ant, William  Hood,  Esq.,  by  whom  all  plans, 
suggestions,  and  directions  were  faithfully  car- 
ried out. 

Cape  Horn,  on  the  Central  Pacific,  presented 
no  difficulty  to  be  compared  with  the  Tehachapi. 
To  overcome  the  former  was  an  act  of  courage, 
but  requiring  far  less  ingenuity  and  skill  than  to 
build  successfully  and  economically  in  this  defile. 

But  the  tourist  will  prefer  to  see  for  himself, 
and  his  attention  will  be  divided  between  the 
work  and  the  scenery  of  the  canon.  The  latter 
is  not  majestic,  like  that  on  the  American  River, 
but  quite  picturesque  and  often  grand. 


Leaving  Caliente,  the  Tehachapi  Creek  is  lost 
sight  of,  and  the  road  winds  around  among  the 
hills. 

Bealeville,  330.1  miles,is  a  small  station, honor- 
ing General  Beale.  When  approaching  and  at  it, 
a  pretty  view  may  be  had  of  the  rugged  hills  on 
the  left  beyond  Caliente.  Under  the  morning 
sun  on  the  numerous  ridges  and  valleys,  coming 
down  from  the  long  mountain  chain,  there  are 
ever-varying  lines  of  light  and  shade. 

After  leaving  Bealeville  the  road  passes  around 
Clear  Creek  Canon,  one  of  the  most  formidable 
pieces  of  work  on  the  mountain,  having  in  it  tun- 
nels 3,  4,  5,  and  6  ;  and  as  you  enter  the  canon, 
you  see  on  the  left  the  road  ascending  the  oppo- 
site wall  of  the  canon  more  than  a  hundred  feet 
above,  and  it  is  only  three  or  four  hundred 
yards  across  the  canon  ! 

The  tunnels  are  numerous,  there  being  seventeen 
between  Caliente  and  the  summit.  The  short- 
est is  No.  11,  158.8  feet,  and  the  longest,  No. 
5,  1156.3  feet.  The  aggregate  length  of  the  sev- 
enteen is  7683.9  feet. 

On  emerging  from  tunnel  No.  6,  six  miles  from 
Caliente,  the  Tehachapi  creek  and  canon  are 
seen  below,  and  Caliente  itself  only  a  mile  away, 
but  about  six  hundred  feet  below  the  train  ! 

The  old  road  to  Havilah  and  Kernville  appears 
like  a  trail  on  the  hills  beyond  Caliente,  and  the 
new  road  may  be  seen  following  up  the  canon  of 
Caliente  Creek. 

Oaks  are  now  becoming  more  numerous  and 
beautifying  the  hillsides.  The  old  stage-road  to 
Los  Angeles  is  seen  far  away  and  above  on  the 
right.  And  now  there  begins  to  appear  the  ' '  Span- 
ish-bayonet" (Yucca  Gioriosa),  one  of  the  love- 
liest flowers  that  adorns  the  land.  When  it  blos- 
soms in  early  spring,  it  will  attract  and  enthuse 
every  one.  On  the  top  of  its  tall,  straight,  sin- 
gle stem  is  a  great  panicle  of  snow-white  blos- 
soms, and  the  whole  air  is  richly  laden  with  their 
most  delicious  fragrance.  It  partakes  somewhat 
of  the  character  of  the  night-blooming  cereus, 
for  the  fullest  bloom  and  sweetest  fragrance  are 
in  the  night.  Twelve  hundred  blossoms  may  be 
counted  on  a  single  stalk,  and  in  the  vicinity  of 
Los  Angeles,  where  the  stalk  grows  fifteen  feet 
high,  si£  thousand  blossoms  have  been  found. 

The  scenery  now  grows  wilder  ;  the  rocks  in 
the  canon  are  sharper  and  more  forbidding,  and 
piled  higher  and  higher.  In  the  narrow  canon 
there  are  rocks  frowning  from  above,  and  rising 
up  from  the  crooked  defile  of  the  creek  700  feet 
below. 

On  passing  through  Tunnel  8,  one  may  notice 
how  rapidly  the  bed  of  the  creek  is  rising.  The 
heavy  cuts  also  indicate  the  difficult  character  of 
the  work.  The  rock  is  granitoid,  yet,  solid  and 
safe  as  the  tunnels  through  it  seem,  the  fearful  may 
take  courage,  for  assurance  is  doubly  sure,  all 
the  tunnels  being  lined  with  the  cedars  of  Oregon. 


339 


An  occasional  pine  is  now  seen,  and  as  the  al- 
titude increases  they  will  become  more  numer- 
ous. 

As  one  looks  back  down  the  canon,  he  may  see 
the  top  of  Breckenbridge  Mountain.  It  was  hid 
at  Caliente,  but  has  now  crawled  up  into  view. 
The  old  stage-road  is  crossed  and  recrossed,  and 
at  length  the  railroad  crosses  the  Tehachapi 
Creek  itself.  Off  to  the  right  we  have  a  pretty 
view  of  Bear  Mountain,  a  peak  of  the  Sierras. 
It  is  snow-crowned  late  in  the  spring. 

The  track  then  curves,  making  the  "  Twitty 
Creek  Bend,"  from  which,  in  clear  atmosphere, 
one  may  look  out  over  the  wide  expanse  of  the 
San  Joaquin  Valley,  off  hundreds  of  miles  to- 
wards San  Francisco. 

We  recross  the  Tehachapi  Creek,  just  as  we 
approach 

Keene,  338  miles.  It  is  a  small  station. 
Around  it  there  are  many  points  of  interest  in 
the  mountain  scenery,  but  the  view  is  not  exten- 
sive or  sublime.  On  the  right  of  Keene  is  that 
familiar  friend,  Bear  Mountain,  heavily  timbered. 
It  appeared  often  along  the  road,  and  at  Caliente 
seemed  as  near  as  it  now  does. 

Then  crossing  and  almost  immediately  recross- 
ing  the  creek,  the  road  makes  a  long  curve  to 
the  right,  turns  again  sharply  to  the  left  to  pass 
through  tunnel  9  and  pass  around  the  Loop. 

The  road-bed  is  no  longer  far  above  the  creek, 
and  how  to  ascend  without  expending  millions 
for  long  tunnels  was  the  problem  the  Loop  solved. 
Here  the  canon  of  the  Tehachapi  has  widened, 
and  in  it  there  is  a  conical-shaped  hill.  Beneath 
this  the  train  goes  through  tunnel  9,  and  emerg- 
ing it  curves  to  the  left  and  climbs  this  same  hill 
and  crosses  the  track,  with  a  difference  in  eleva- 
tion of  77.46  feet.  Tunnel  9  is  426.2  feet  long  ; 
the  loop-line  is  3794.7  feet ;  the  curvature,  300° 
52'  ;  the  limit  of  curvature,  10°  ;  and  the  radius, 
573.7  feet.  Then,  by  a  fill  of  150,000  cubic  yards, 
the  road  passes  from  the  peak  around  which  it 
curved  over  to  the  wall  of  the  canon,  and  is 
again  far  above  the  bed  of  the  creek.  Or  sup- 
pose one  starts  with  the  civil  engineer  to  go  down 
the  mountain.  He  can  not  descend  as  rapidly  as 
the  creek  tumbles  over  the  rocks,  and  he  reaches 
the  narrow  part  of  the  canon,  but  can  not  get 
down  where  his  road  can  follow  it.  So  he  drops 
it  down  by  means  of  the  loop,  and  for  saving 
money  "  there's  millions  in  it." 

In  curving  around  the  hill,  after  passing 
through  tunnel  9,  and  on  the  north-east  side  of 
the  hill,  there  is  a  heavy  cut  that  required  much 
blasting,  and  here  were  used  the  largest  blasts 
exploded  on  the  line  of  the  road,  and  larger  than 
any  used  on  the  Central  Pacific. 

The  best  view  of  the  Loop  is  had  just  before 
entering  tunnel  10,  by  looking  back  down  the 
canon.  Five  lines  of  railroad  are  crossing  and 
recrossing  the  canon.  Between  tunnels  10  and 


11,  and  just  before  entering  tunnel  11,  one  may 
see  on  the  right  the  top  of  a  lofty  peak,  covered 
with  brush,  but  without  trees.  Call  it  after  your- 
self, or  the  "  enterprising  newsboy,"  or  what  you 
choose,  for  it  has  no  name.  (See  page  357.) 

After  passing  tunnel  11  the  train  has  reached 

Crirard,  343.8  miles.  It  is  a  small  station. 
The  old  stage-road  comes  near,  but  it  is  down 
in  the  bottom  of  the  canon.  It  looks  as  if  the 
summit  was  close  at  hand,  but  it  is  nearly  nine 
miles  away.  The  open  country  is  an  indication 
of  its  approach,  but  numerous  spurs  of  trouble- 
some rock  must  yet  be  pierced  with  tunnels  ;  and 
these  too  have  all  been  timbered  with  the  cedars 
of  Oregon. 

Tunnels  12  and  13  are  almost  continuous,  and 
14  only  far  enough  distant  to  open  your  guide- 
book, and  so  you  continue  to  alternate  in  light 
and  darkness,  on  the  solid  rock  and  deep  ravines. 
The  creek  below  is  gradually  approaching.  It  is 
crossed  and  recrossed,  once  on  a  high  trestle.  In 
the  tunnels  and  rocks  and  ravines  we  still  have  a 
country  as  rugged  as  any  railroad  builders  need 
care  to  face. 

At  length  the  tunnels  are  all  passed  and  the 
canon  begins  to  widen,  showing  the  near  ap- 
proach of  the  summit.  The  road  is  no  longer  in 
Tehachapi  Canon,  but  in  Tehachapi  Valley. 

The  stage  and  rail  road  are  side  by  side.  When 
the  hot  sun  of  summer  has  burned  up  every  thing 
else,  here  may  be  seen  prettily-colored  patches  of 
vegetation.  It  is  the  tar-weed,  and  will  stick  to 
one's  boots  as  it  does  to  the  noses  of  the  cattle. 

At  last  the  station  called 

Tehachfipi  Summit,  350.2  miles,  is  reach- 
ed, but  the  highest  point,  or  the  summit,  is  about 
two  miles  beyond,  or  south.  This  station  is  the 
nearest  one  to  the  summit.  About  two  miles  to 
the  right  is  the  old  town  of  Tehachapi,  with  about 
twenty  houses.  It  is  on  the  old  stage-road,  but 
the  new  town  will  eventually  outrival  it. 

On  the  broad  top  of  the  range  and  down  the 
sides  sheep  find  nutritious  pasture.  About  five 
miles  away  is  a  marble  quarry,  and  on  this  ridge 
there  is  also  a  little  placer-mining. 

The  summit  appears  like  a  broad  plain.  The 
highest  elevation  is  4026  feet.  On  the  broad  pla- 
teau and  on  the  right  of  the  road  there  is  a  small 
lake,  and  it  would  not  be  worth  mentioning  if  it 
was  not  salt.  Digging  down  a  few  inches  around 
its  shores  reaches  rock  salt. 

The  water  has  never  been  known  to  flow  out  of 
this  lake  and  off  the  summit.  White  Rock  Creek, 
erroneously  laid  down  on  some  maps  as  flowing 
out  on  the  plains  near  Mojave,  empties  when 
flowing  at  all  into  this  lake. 

From  the  littie  "divide,"  crossed  just  south 
of  the  lake,  tb«-,  road  descends  toward  Cameron's 
Canon,  and  lollows  this  out  of  the  mountain. 

Cameron,  359.4  miles,  is  a  small  station. 
About  half  a  mile  from  this  the  road  enters  the 


340 


canon,  with  walls  from  500  to  700  feet  high  on  the 
south  and  very  much  higher  on  the  north. 

This  canon  is  of  peculiar  interest,  being  an 
earthquake  crack  more  than  five  miles  long. 
Stopping  to  examine  minutely  the  general  slope 
of  the  mountains,  the  strata,  or  the  walls  would 
be  inconvenient,  but  repay  one  who  can  do  so. 
After  crossing  the  Mojave  Plains  near  Alpine  an- 
other earthquake  crack,  and  of  recent  origin,  is 
unmistakably  recorded.  The  Spanish-bayonet  is 
abundant  in  the  canon. 

Nadeau,  364.6  miles,  is  a  small  station  in  the 
canon.  A  stream  of  water  runs  down  the  canon, 
and  it  appears  as  if  the  winter  rains  would  carry 
off  the  road-bed,  but  it  is  10  or  12  feet  above  high 
water. 

On  leaving  the  canon,  the  water  channel  con- 
tinues to  the  left  of  the  road  a  mile  or  two  and 
there  sinks,  leaving  when  dry  white  patches  of 
alkali  and  salt.  Leaving  the  canon,  the  road 
curves  to  the  right  and  approaches  the  first  sta- 
tion on  the  plains. 

Here  a  new  object  of  interest  appears  in  the 
Yucca  Draconis.  It  is  peculiar  to  these  plains, 
and  for  miles  along  the  road  will  attract  atten- 
tion. It  is  palm-like,  and  often  called  a  "  palm" 
and  "  cactus,"  but  it  is  neither.  It  is  a  yucca, 
and  a  remarkable  tree.  It  is  exogenous,  and 
grows  from  ten  to  twenty  feet  high,  has  a  trunk 
18  or  20  inches  in  diameter,  and  terminates  in 
stumpy  branches,  each  having  at  the  extreme  end 
a  tuft  of  dagger-shaped  leaves.  Out  of  each 
bunch  of  foliage  grows  a  panicle  of  blossoms  with 
greenish  petals  bearing  large  seed-vessels,  but  not 
remarkable  for  either  beauty  or  fragrance.  How 
often  each  tree  blossoms  is  not  known,  but  not 
every  year,  and  some  say  once  in  four  years. 
The  trunk  has  numerous  layers  of  fibers,  which 
run  spirally,  and  each  layer  is  at  an  angle  to  the 
next. 

The  bark  is  removed,  and  the  trunk  used  for 
making  paper.  It  is  crushed  into  a  pulp  at  Ra- 
venna, a  station  in  the  Soledad  Canon,  and  the 
pulp  taken  to  a  mill  near  San  Jose1  and  manufac- 
tured. Experts  have  pronounced  it  adapted  for 
making  a  superior  class  of  bank-note  paper  of 
great  durability. 

Mojave,  370.2  miles,  and  the  terminus  of  the 
Tulare  and  also  the  Mojave  Division.  It  is  the 
only  eating-station  between  the  San  Joaquin  Val- 
ley and  Los  Angeles,  and  butter,  milk,  and  all 
provisions  must  be  transported  over  the  moun- 
tains, and  the  water  is  carried  in  pipes  from  a 
spring  near  Cameron  station,  ten  miles  away. 

Besides  the  hotel,  there  are  several  stores, 
some  shops  and  residences.  The  railroad  com- 
pany has  a  round-house  for  fifteen  engines,  a  ma- 
chine-shop, and  a  large  freight  warehouse. 
Freight  wagons  are  always  on  hand  to  unload 
bullion  and  carry  supplies  to  Darwin,  100  miles, 
Lone  Pine,  Cerro  Gordo,  and  Independence,  168 


miles,  directly  north  in  Inyo  County.  The  Cerro 
Gordo  Freighting  Company  alone  employ  700 
head  of  horses. 

Stages  leave  Mojave  every  other  day  for  Dar- 
win, 106  miles,  Cerro  Gordo,  135  miles,  Lone 
Pine,  145  miles,  and  Independence,  164  miles. 
Stage  fare,  about  20  cents  a  mile.  These  plains 
extend  eastward  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach, 
and  on  the  west  there  is  a  semicircle  of  moun- 
tains. The  heated  sand  causes  the  wind  to  rush 
furiously,  and  early  in  the  history  of  the  road 
"  Mojave  zephyr"  was  a  well-fixed  term.  From 
Mojave  it  is  only  about  75  miles  to  Colton  via  the 
Cajon  Pass.  Mojave  is  the  point  of  divergence 
of  the  proposed  Thirty-fifth  Parallel  road,  sur- 
veyed to  the  Colorado  River  at  "The  Needles," 
254  miles  east. 

This  survey  crossed  the  sink  of  the  Mojave 
River  at  an  altitude  of  960  feet,  and  crossed  the 
Providence  Mountains  via,  Granite  Pass  at  an  ele- 
vation of  3935  feet. 

The  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Railroad  Company  had 
also  a  charter  from  San  Francisco  to  the  Colo- 
rado, following  the  coast  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Santa  Clara  River,  thence  east  to  Soledad  Pass, 
and  across  the  desert  to  the  Colorado. 

The  course  to  be  now  followed  from  Mojave  is 
nearly  south.  The  Yucca  Draconis  is  more 
abundant.  Numerous  buttes,  hundreds  of  feet 
high,  are  seen.  They  are  of  soft  granite  and 
sandstone  rock,  showing  that  the  country  is  not 
volcanic.  The  highest  are  on  the  right.  It  is 
quite  probable  that  these  are  the  peaks  of  a  sub- 
merged mountain  chain. 

Gloster,  376.8  miles,  is  named  a  station,  but 
there  is  neither  house  nor  side-track  ;  and 

Sand  Creek,  384  miles,,  is  also  dreary.  But 
water  is  only  a  few  feet  below  the  surface,  and 
this  peculiarity  extends  over  nearly  all  the  plains, 
and  promises  well  for  future  development.  Now 
the  plains  furnish  a  valuable  stock-range,  as  they 
abound  with  bunch  and  other  nutritious  grasses. 
In  the  spring  of  the  year  these  plains  are  a  vast 
and  most  beautiful  flower-bed,  perhaps  un- 
equaled  by  any  other  gathering  of  colors  to  be 
found  in  California. 

Between  Sand  Creek  and  Lancaster  the  road 
begins  to  ascend,  the  lowest  elevation  being  2300 
feet,  about  six  miles  south  of  Sand  Creek  station. 

Off  to  the  left  there  seems  to  be  an  ocean  ;  it 
is  sand  and  alkali,  and  the  well-known  "mirage 
of  the  desert." 

Lancaster,  395  miles,  is  only  a  side  track. 

About  half  a  mile  north  of  the  next  station, 
the  road  passes  through  a  cut  of  chalky-looking 
rock,  and  after  the  cut  comes  a  fill  of  the  same 
material. 

This  is  the  wave  of  an  earthquake  made  in 
1868,  and  the  wave  may  be  traced  lor  miles.  In 
places  juniper-trees  may  be  found  half  buried  yet 
erect. 


341 


The  Yucca  Gloriosa,  which  disappeared  in  Ca- 
meron's Canon,  now  reappears  and  is  seen  nearly 
all  the  way  to  Los  Angeles. 

Alpine,  405. 9  miles,  a  side  track,  brings  us 
face  to  face  with  the  San  Gabriel  Mountains. 
This  range  directly  ahead  is  between  nine  and 
ten  thousand  feet  high,  and  the  other  side  of 
these  mountains  will  be  seen  from  Los  Angeles. 
This  range  is  the  Sierra  Madre,  or  San  Gabriel, 
Mountains,  and  on  the  west  the  range  connects 
with  the  San  Fernando  Mountains  at  the  San 
Fernando  Pass.  Ascending  from  Alpine  to  the 
summit,  and  looking  back  and  to  the  left,  there  is 
a  beautiful  view  of  the  Mojave  Plains  and  the 
mountains  we  crossed. 

The  maximum  grade  is  116  feet.  The  sum- 
mit of  Soledad  Pass  has  an  elevation  of  3211 
feet. 

Acton,  415.6  miles,  is  a  side  track.  The  road 
follows  the  Santa  Clara,  an  open  valley  from  the 
summit  nearly  to  Ravenna,  where  the  valley  nar- 
rows and  continues  as  the  Soledad  Canon  to  and 
beyond  Lang.  The  Soledad  is  a  wild  and  rug- 
ged canon,  a  "  Robber's  Roost,"  but  was  never 
the  home  of  that  notorious  outlaw,  Tiburcio  Vas- 
quez.  This  murderous  chief  had  his  head-quarters 
near  Elizabeth  Lake,  about  25  miles  north-west 
of  Alpine,  and  he  ranged  all  over  the  mountains 
of  Southern  California. 

Ravenna,  419.3  miles,  a  small  station  and 
cluster  of  houses  ocupied  by  Mexicans.  Here  is 
the  mill  in  which  the  Yucca  Draconis  is  crushed 
to  a  pulp  preparatory  to  its  shipment  to  a  paper- 
mill  near  San  Jose".  No  one  will  be  likely  to 
travel  long  in  California  and  not  see  the  California- 
quail  (Lopkortyx  Californicus)  ;  but  if  any  one 
has  failed,  he  may  surely  see  them  in  this  canon, 
for  they  find  a  secure  home  in  these  impenetrable 
thickets.  The  plume,  or  crest,  has  from  three  to 
six  feathers,  about  an  inch  and  a  half  long,  and 
will  probably  be  erect,  though  it  is  often  low- 
ered, falling  over  the  bill.  This  quail  always 
roosts  on  trees. 

The  plumed  or  ' '  mountain  quail ' '  ( Oreortyx 
Pictus),  with  a  crest  of  two  feathers  three  and  a 
half  inches  long,  is  never  found  south  of  the 
Tejon  (Tay-hone)  Pass. 

Deer  and  bear  are  also  plentiful  in  these  moun- 
tains. Before  leaving  Ravenna,  the  side  hills  on 
the  right  may  be  seen  honeycombed  with  tun- 
nels, built  during  a  brief  but  wild  mining  ex- 
citement. There  is  a  little  placer-mining  carried 
on  by  the  Mexicans,  who  farm  on  a  small  scale 
during  the  summer,  and  mine  on  the  same  scale 
during  the  wet  season. 

Between  Ravenna  and  Lang  are  tunnels  18  and 
19,  the  walls  of  the  canon  900  feet  high,  the 
mountains  much  higher,  and  some  of  the  crooked- 
est  and  most  picturesque  country  on  the  road.  It 
was  in  this  region,  half  a  mile  east  of  Lang, 
where  the  "  last  spike"  was  driven,  September 


5th,  1876,  which  completed  the  line  between  San 
Francisco  and  Los  Angeles. 

Lang,  427.8  miles,  is  a  small  station. 

The  valley  grows  wider,  and  we  soon  find  a 
"stock  country."  As  we  reach  Newhall,  the 
road  leaves  the  main  Santa  Clara  Valley,  and 
turns  up  the  south  fork  of  the  Santa  Clara 
River  and  follows  this  nearly  to  Andrews. 

Newhall,  437.9  miles,  is  a  stage  station  where 
stages  connect  daily  for  San  Buena  Ventura,  50 
miles  ;  Santa  Barbara,  80  miles,  and  there  con- 
necting with  the  coast  line  of  stages  for  San  Luis 
Obispo,  Pass  Robles,  and  Soledad.  Local  fares, 
about  10  cents  a  mile. 

This  station  is  in  the  midst  of  a  fine  grazing 
country. 

Andrews,  441.5  miles,  a  small  station.  Here 
are  two  refineries  for  crude  petroleum,  which  is 
found  in  paying  quantities  a  few  miles  distant. 
The  oil  region  of  California  may  be  traced  in  a 
line  almost  straight  from  Watsonville,  in  Mon- 
terey County,  through  Santa  Barbara  and  Ventura 
counties  into  Los  Angeles  County  at  San  Fer- 
nando, and  thence  on  to  San  Bernardino.  The 
road  now  leaves  the  south  fork  of  the  river  and 
turns  up  the  canon,  in  which  the  north  portal  of 
the  San  Fernando  Tunnel  is  situated. 

The  Sierra  de  San  Fernando  Mountains  are  now 
directly  ahead.  There  was  no  practicable  pass, 
hence  one  of  the  longest  tunnels  in  America — 
6967  feet — in  which  the  lamps  will  be  needed  to 
keep  away  gloomy  thoughts,  for  nine  minutes  are 
spent  by  all  trains  in  passing  through  it.  The 
Hoosac  is  the  only  tunnel  in  America  of  greater 
length.  This  tunnel  is  approached  on  a  maxi- 
mum grade  of  116  feet,  and  at  the  north  end  has 
an  elevation  of  1479  feet.  In  the  tunnel  the 
grade  is  37  feet,  descending  southward.  It  is 
timbered  from  end  to  end,  although  cut  through 
rock.  At  the  south  mouth  of  the  tunnel  we  find 
the  station  called 

San  Fernando  Tunnel,  444.4  miles. 

The  descending  grade  now  increases,  and  we 
drop  down  as  we  go  south  116  feet  per  mile  for 
about  five  miles,  down  the  San  Fernando  Creek, 
and  the  country  opens  into  the  San  Fernando 
Valley. 

San  Fernando,  449.6  miles.  Two  miles 
east  is  the  old  mission  of  the  same  name,  one  of 
the  most  interesting  in  the  State.  It  is  well  pre- 
served, and  its  gardens  beautifully  kept.  The 
building  is  locked,  but  the  keys  are  under  the 
care  of  the  Catholic  clergy  in  Los  Angeles.  The 
groves  of  orange  and  lemon  trees  are  like  an  oasis 
to  one  who  rides  on  horseback  over  the  country. 

Interesting  specimens  of  cactus  are  on  all  sides. 
It  is  one  of  the  Opuntias,  sometimes  called  the 
pad  cactus,  and  grows  twenty  feet  high.  Near 
San  Fernando,  at  the  Tehunga  Wash,  are  beauti- 
ful specimens  of  the  Agave  Americana,  the  most 
remarkable  of  all  the  agaves.  It  is  the  maguay 


342 


of  the  Mexicans,  commonly  called  the  American 
aloe,  or  century-plant.  It  is  frequently  seen  in 
the  gardens  of  California,  but  here  may  be  seen 
the  fleshy  spiny-toothed  leaves,  above  the  Ceano- 
thus  brevifolia  of  the  region.  The  flower-stalk 
shoots  up  from  20  to  30  feet. 

Petroleum  is  found  in  Rice  Canon,  not  far 
away,  and  there  is  supposed  to  be  a  general  diffu- 
sion of  oil  underlying  all  this  San  Fernando  dis- 
trict. 

Sepulveda,  462.1  miles,  is  a  side  track  on  the 
bank  of  the  Los  Angeles  River,  which  the  road 
crosses  near  the  depot. 

Los  Angeles,  470.7  miles.  Here  are  lo- 
cated, near  the  depot,  the  shops  of  the  rail- 
road company  —  quite  a  town  of  themselves. 
It  is  the  metropolitan  city  of  Southern  Cali- 
fornia, with  a  population  of  about  16, 000,  banks, 
•wholesale  and  retail  storesv  shops  and  fac- 
tories and  hotels.  Of  the  latter  the  St. 
Charles  is  first-class.  It  has  many  impos- 
ing edifices  and  blocks  of  fine  buildings,  and  four 
daily  and  seven  weekly  papers.  The  dailies — 
the  Star,  Express,  Herald,  and  Republican — circu- 
late over  all  of  Southern  California. 

The  city  was  founded  September  4th,  1781  ;  is 
situated  on  the  Los  Angeles  River,  30  miles  from 
its  mouth,  and  in  a  large  valley  that  fronts  on 
the  Pacific  Ocean  ;  and  has  two  rival  harbors, 
Wilmington  and  Santa  Monica.  The  area  of  the 
city  embraces  six  square  miles.  The  full  name 
of  the  city  is  Pueblo  de  la  Reina  de  los  Angeles 
("  Town  of  the  Queen  of  the  Angels").  From 
every  point  of  the  city  the  panorama  is  grand, 
especially  when  the  Sierra  Madre  Mountains  are 
.  in  the  background.  It  is  the  railroad  center  of 
Southern  California,  and  has  already  roads  ex- 
tending in  five  directions. 

It  is  the  seat  of  a  Roman  Catholic  bishop,  and 
has  a  cathedral  which  is  the  finest  church  build- 
ing outside  of  San  Francisco.  The  several  prom- 
inent Protestant  denominations  have  organiza- 
tions, including  the  Methodist,  Presbyterian,  and 
Episcopal.  The  Roman  Catholics  have  a  college 
located  here,  and  the  Sisters  of  Charity  a  female 
seminary  ;  and  besides  these  there  is  an  academic 
institute  and  good  public  schools. 

There  is  also  a  public  library,  an  organized  fire 
department,  and  the  city  is  supplied  with  gas  and 
water,  and  has  street  railroads  extending  from  the 
center  in  every  direction.  It  was  made  a  city 
and  the  capital  of  California  by  the  Mexican  Con- 
gress in  1836,  and  captured  by  the  United  States 
forces  under  Commodore  Stockton  and  General 
Kearney  in  1846.  It  is  celebrated  for  a  mild  and 
equable  climate,  fertile  soil,  the  luxuriant  growth 
of  semi-tropical  fruits  and  flowers,  and  the  abun- 
dant products  of  its  vineyards  and  orange  groves. 
1  Southern  California  has  recently  enjoyed  great 
prosperity  and  Los  Angeles  aspires  to  be  the  capi- 
tal of  a  new  state. 


Los   Angeles    and    Independence 
Railroad. 

LEASED  TO  THE  CENTRAL  PACIFIC. 

This  road  was  built  by  Senator  Jones,  and 
opened  December  10th,  1875.  It  connects  Loa 
Angeles  and  Santa  Monica,  giving  this  southern 
metropolis  its  best  seaport,  and  affording  it  and 
the  city  of  San  Francisco  an  all-rail  connection 
with  the  "  Long  Branch  "  of  the  Pacific  Coast. 
It  was  projected  towards  Independence,  and  to 
connect  with  the  Utah  Southern,  or  Union 
Pacific.  Considerable  tunnel-work  was  done  at 
Cajon  Pass.  In  1877  the  franchise  and  work 
were  purchased  from  the  original  owners  and 
leased  to  the  Southern  Pacific. 

Trains  leave  Los  Angeles  for  Santa  Monica 
every  morning  and  every  afternoon. 

After  leaving  Los  Angeles,  the  road  passes 
through  the  beautiful  orange  groves  in  the 
vicinity,  and  soon  turns  directly  toward  the 
coast.  There  are  no  important  stations  on  the  line 
of  the  road,  but  the  San  Fernando  Mountains  in 
the  north,  and  many  pleasant  homes,  and  corn 
growing  to  maturity  without  rain  or  irrigation, 
may  be  seen  from  the  cars. 

Santa  Monica  is  a  new  town,  begun  in  1875, 
and  has  now  about  1000  residents.  The  town 
site  is  a  mile  square,  and  has  a  park  of  five  acres. 
It  is  supplied  with  water  from  the  San  Vincente 
Springs,  three  miles  distant,  and  has  a  weekly 
paper,  the  Santa  Monica  Outlook.  There  are  two 
churches  and  a  good  school-house,  and  one  of  the 
best  hotels  on  the  coast,  the  "  Santa  Monica 
House."  It  has  ample  accommodations  for  200 
guests. 

The  situation  of  the  town  is  charming.  It  is 
on  a  horseshoe  bend  in  the  coast,  that  gives  it  a 
land-locked  advantage  for  vessels,  and  the  best 
surf  of  the  ocean  for  bathing.  From  Point  Dum6 
on  the  north  to  Point  Vincent  on  the  south  is  28 
miles,  and  a  line  drawn  across  from  point  to 
point  would  be  ten  miles  from  Santa  Monica. 
But  the  shelter  of  the  harbor  is  increased  by  a 
group  of  outlying  islands  which  add  picturesque- 
ness  to  the  lovely  view  from  the  commanding 
town.  Point  Dumas  is  13  miles  north-west,  Point 
Vincent  20  miles  south-west.  Anacapa,  Santa 
Cruz,  Santa  Rosa,  and  San  Miguel  are  all  islands 
in  a  line  west  of  Point  Dum6 — the  continuation 
of  the  Santa  Monica  range  of  mountains.  Santa 
Rosa  is  91  miles  west,  and  San  Miguel  hidden  be- 
hind it.  On  the  south-west  is  Santa  Barbara,  25 
miles,  and  San  Nicholas,  37  miles,  and  40  miles 
south  is  Santa  Catalina.  On  the  north  there  is  a 
beautiful  background  in  the  "  saw  teeth  "  of  the 
San  Madre  range.  The  natural  barriers  of  the 
harbor  afford  the  best  shelter  on  the  southern 
coast  north  of  San  Diego,  and  make  the  gently 


343 


eloping,  hard  sandy  beach  entirely  free  from, 
undertow.  The  requisite  of  good  bathing  in 
the  temperature  is  about  perfect  at  this  place. 

The  air,  as  modified  in  this  region,  is  most 
agreeable  and  invigorating,  and  has  proved 
worthy  the  highest  praise  as  a  resort  for  many 
persons  troubled  with  asthma. 

See  "  Health  and  Pleasure  resorts." 

It  has  a  solid  and  substantial  wharf,  1,475 
feet  long. 

The  roads  are  peculiarly  good,  and  in  the 
canons  of  the  mountains  there  are  many  beautiful 
camping  and  picnic  grounds.  In  the  vicinity  on 
the  south  are  ducks,  geese,  and  all  sea-fowl  in 
great  abundance,  and  in  the  mountains  on  the 
north  quail  and  larger  game,  and  the  ocean 
affords  fine  fishing  for  mackerel  and  smelts. 

In  short,  Santa  Monica  has  the  climate,  scenery, 
natural  advantages,  and  conveniences  that  make 
it  unequaled  as  a  seaside  resort. 


Wilmington    Division,  Southern 
Pacific  Railroad. 

On  this  division  two  trains  are  run  daily  be- 
tween Los  Angeles  and  Wilmington.  Leaving 
Los  Angeles,  one  travels  through  a  succession  of 
orange  groves  and  fruit  orchards  to 

Florence,  6  miles  from  Los  Angeles.  This  is 
the  point  of  divergence  of  the  Los  Angeles  and 
San  Diego  Railroad. 

Co  nipt  on,  11  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  is  in  a 
fertile  and  well-cultivated  region,  and  is  the  most 
important  settlement  on  the  line  of  the  road. 

JJoniinyuez  and 

Cerritos  are  small  stations. 

Wilmington,  22  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  is 
the  terminus.  It  has  a  population  of  only  500, 
and  is  not  so  favorably  situated  as  to  insure  its 
rapid  growth.  Until  Santa  Monica  became  its 
rival  as  the  port  of  Los  Angeles,  it  had  a  lively 
aspect  at  times,  and  it  derived  considerable  im- 
portance from  the  presence  of  the  army  when  it 
was  the  head-quarters  of  the  Department  of 
Southern  California  and  Arizona. 

The  harbor  is  not  accessible  to  large  vessels, 
and  these  are  compelled  to  discharge  by  means  of 
lighters  from  San  Pedro,  two  miles  below.  The 
erection  of  a  breakwater  is  in  progress,  and  in  it 
the  government  has  already  spent  more  than  half 
a  million  dollars.  The  breakwater  will  be  6700 
feet  long.  The  jetty  so  far  as  completed  is  very 
strong  and  solid,  and  apparently  impregnable  to 
all  assaults  of  the  water.  By  confining  the  channel 
it  deepens  itself.  Now  there  is  only  12  feet  of 
water  at  the  wharf,  and  this  gradually  deepens  to 
22  feet  at  the  bar.  Eventually  there  will  be  at 
least  one  safe  refuge  for  all  kinds  of  vessels  in 
all  kinds  of  weather  between  San  Diego  and  San 


Francisco,  and  Los  Angeles  will  have  such  a  har- 
bor as  its  commercial  importance  deserves. 

Firmin  Point  is  the  most  prominent  point  on 
the  west,  and  has  a  lighthouse  on  it  with  a  light 
of  the  first  order.  A  number  of  islands  lie  near 
the  coast.  Rattlesnake  in  front,  Deadman's,  a 
rocky  peak,  at  t^e  end  of  the  breakwater,  and 
Santa  Catalina  20  miles  distant. 

Wilmington  looks  like  a  deserted  place,  and 
changes  its  appearance  very  frequently  with  the 
sand-storms  that  are  common  to  the  region,  often 
piling  sand  like  snow  in  immense  drifts. 


The  Los  Angeles  and  San  Diego 
Railroad. 

The  company  which  owns  and  has  constructed 
this  road  in  part  was  incorporated  October  10th, 
1876.  The  road  is  built  from  Florence,  six  miles 
west  of  Los  Angeles,  to  Santa  Ana,  a  distance  of 
twenty-seven  miles,  and  will  be  extended  to  San 
Diego.  The  Los  Angeles  River  is  crossed  near 
Florence. 

Doivney,  12  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  is  a  small 
town  of  500  people,  but  prosperous.  Irrigation 
is  essential  in  all  this  part  of  the  State,  but  with 
abundant  water,  good  grain,  fruits,  and  vegetables 
are  assured.  Here  there  is  a  supply  from  the  San 
Gabriel  River,  the  river  crossed  soon  after  leav- 
ing the  station. 

Nor  walls,,  17  miles,  and 
Costa,  23  miles,  are  both  small  stations. 
Anaheim,  26  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  is  one 
of  the  most  important  towns  of  Southern  Cali- 
fornia. It  was  settled  by  a  colony  of  Germans, 
and  their  thrift  is  quite  apparent  on  every  hand. 
Water  from  the  Santa  Ana  River  is  used  for  irri- 
gation, and  along  the  ditches  are  dense  rows  of 
willows,  poplars,  eucalyptus,  pepper,  acacia,  and 
other  beautiful  trees.  The  population  is  about 
1500.  The  town  has  a  weekly  paper,  the  Anaheim 
Gazette,  two  good  hotels,  and  many  buildings 
quite  creditable  to  the  young  and  rising  place. 

A  few  miles  distant  is  the  Westminster  colony, 
water  for  which  is  had  from  artesian  wells  and 
is  quite  abundant.  It  is  one  of  the  most  flour- 
ishing colonies  of  the  State.  Anaheim  was  the 
first  of  these  colonies  on  a  large  scale,  deriving 
its  water  from  the  river,  and  Westminster  the 
first  deriving  its  water  from  artesian  wells.  Both, 
as  well  as  others  started  since,  have  been  emi- 
nently successful.  Anaheim  has  a  landing  on 
the  ocean  about  ten  miles  from  the  town,  and  to 
this  the  steamers  of  the  Pacific  Coast  Steam- 
ship Company  make  regular  trips. 

Orange,  31  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  is  anoth- 
er flourishing  colony,  obtaining  water  from  the 


344 


Santa  Ana  River.    Thft  road  crosses  the  river  on  a 
long  bridge  just  before  reaching  the  town  of 

Santa  Ana, — 33  miles  from  Los  Angeles. 
This,  too,  is  one  of  the  colonies  in  the  great  val- 
ley, where  cactus  land  worth  $5  an  acre  rises  to 
$200  or  $300  an  acre  soon  after  water  has  been 
turned  upon  it.  Santa  Ana  has  derived  consid- 
erable importance  from  being  the  terminus  of  the 
railroad,  and  now  has  daily  stages  for  San  Juan 
Capistrano,  24  miles  south-east  (fare,  $2.50)  ;  San 
Luis  Key,  65  miles  (fare,  $5) ;  and  San  Diego, 
100  miles  (fare,  $10). 

San  Diego, — the  objective  point  of  this  road, 
is  the  oldest  town  in  California,  and  well  known 
in  all  lands.  Its  history,  beautiful  situation,  nat- 
ural advantages,  and  remarkable  climate,  which 
Agassiz  said  was  "  its  capital  " — all  make  it  in- 
teresting and  important. 

It  is  the  oldest  settlement  in  the  State,  the 
mission  having  been  founded  in  1769.  It  is  des- 
ignated as  the  western  terminus  of  the  Texas  and 
Pacific  Railroad,  and  with  its  prospects  and  prob- 
abilities in  this  direction  corner  lots  have  gone 
up  and  down  like  a  jumping-jack. 

It  is  situated  on  San  Diego  Bay,  about  12  miles 
long  and  2  wide,  with  30  feet  of  water  at  low 
tide,  and  good  anchorage.  It  is  one  of  the  love- 
liest of  harbors,  and  greatly  resembles  that  of 
Liverpool.  Excepting  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco, 
there  is  nothing  like  it  between  the  Isthmus  and 
Puget  Sound. 

For  miles  along  the  bay  the  land  rises  gently 
toward  the  interior,  making  a  location  for  a  city 
unexcelled  in  all  the  world. 

Its  climate  has  long  been  noted,  and  its  reputa- 
tion as  a  sanitarium  is  deservedly  great  The 
mercury  never  falls  below  40°  in  winter,  nor  rises 
above  80°  in  summer.  The  sea-bathing  is  fine, 
the  drives  charming,  and  the  vegetation  luxuri- 
ant. 

It  has  a  population  of  about  5,000,  is  the  county 
town  of  San  Diego  County,  and  has  a  large  num- 
ber of  good  buildings.  The  Horton  House,  a 
hotel  erected  at  a  cost  of  $175,000,  is  not  sur- 
passed by  any  house  outside  of  San  Francisco. 

But  with  all  her  natural  advantages  and  beau- 
tiful situation,  others  will  never  concede  to  her 
the  importance  she  claims,  and  she  will  never 
be  satisfied  unless  she  realizes  her  hopes  in  be- 
coming the  terminus  of  a  transcontinental  rail- 
road, and  a  chief  gate  in  the  highway  of  the 
nations. 

San  Diego  is  reached  by  the  steamers  of  the 
Pacific  Coast  Steamship  Company,  and  will  no 
doubt  be  more  largely  patronized  by  health 
and  pleasure  seekers  whenever  the  city  enjoys 
railroad  communication  with  the  rest  ol  the 
world, 
•world,  a  day  not  far  distant. 

Leaving  Los  Angeles  for  Arizona,  the  road 
turns  east,  recrosses  the  Los  Angeles  River  and 


goes  into  the  San  Gabriel  Valley,  and  on  east 
to  San  Gorgonio  Pass. 

San  Gabriel  is  9.2  miles  from  Los  Angeles, 
and  the  station  for  San  Gabriel  Valley,  which  lies 
to  the  right  and  is  watered  by  the  San  Gabriel 
River.  It  is  the  seat  of  an  old  mission  of  the 
same  name  founded  September  8th,  1771.  This 
is  now  dilapidated,  as  are  all  these  old  Spanish 
missions,  but  the  ancient  bells  still  hang  in  their 
belfry.  It  has  the  oldest  orange  orchard  in  the 
State. 

Near  this  station  is  an  orchard  of  500  acres,  the 
largest  in  the  State — that  of  Mr.  L.  J.  Rose.  It 
has  oranges,  lemons,  olives,  figs,  limes,  walnuts, 
almonds,  bananas,  pineapples,  and  almost  every 
variety  of  tropical  and  semi-tropical  nuts  and 
fruits. 

The  Sierra  Madre  Villa  is  a  lovely  spot,  where 
stands  a  hotel  well  appointed  and  kept,  1800 
feet  above  the  sea,  overlooking  the  thousands  of 
groves  in  the  Los  Angeles  Valley. 

The  choicest  of  all  the  "  Los  Angeles  orange 
groves"  are  in  this  valley. 

John  Muir  says  :  "The  sun  valley  of  San  Ga- 
briel is  one  of  the  brightest  spots  to  be  found  in 
all  our  bright  land,  and  most  of  its  brightness  is 
wild  ness — wild,  south  sunshine  in  a  basin  rimmed 
about  with  mountains  and  hills." 

And  Dr.  Congar,  his  friend,  says  to  him  :  "  I 
have  rambled  ever  since  we  left  college,  tasting 
innumerable  climates,  and  trying  the  advantages 
offered  by  nearly  every  new  State  and  Territory. 
Here  I  have  made  my  home,  and  here  I  shall  stay 
while  I  live.  The  geographical  position  is  exact- 
ly right,  soil  and.  climate  perfect,  and  every  thing 
that  heart  can  wish  comes  for  our  efforts — flowers, 
fruits,  milk  and  honey,  and  plenty  of  money." 

Mr.  Muir  also  says  persons  suffering  from 
advanced  pulmonary  disease  are  not  benefited 
here,  and  too  many  seek  these  delightful  regions 
too  late  and  only  to  die. 

After  passing  the  old  mission  of  San  Gabriel, 
and  crossing  the  river  of  the  same  name,  the  road 
follows  a  tributary  of  the  river  known  as  the  San 
Jos6  Creek  to  the  plains  in  the  direction  of  San 
Bernardino. 

Savanna,  11.7  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  is  a 
small  station  with  fruitful  fields  of  corn  and 
grain,  and  beautiful  groves  of  oranges  and  lem- 
ons, and  large  vineyards  around  it.  The  San 
Gabriel  Valley  is  still  on  the  right. 

Monte,  13.1  miles,  is  the  old  town  of  El 
Monte,  a  thriving  place  in  a  perfect  garden-spot. 
It  is  almost  impossible  to  keep  the  weeds  from 
choking  the  corn  ;  but  for  all  that,  the  corn  is 
not  stunted.  Much  of  the  corn  is  fed  to  hogs 
without  being  shipped. 

Puente,  19.3  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  is  a  sig- 
nal station,  around  which  Mexicans  are  numerous 
— as,  in  fact,  they  are  in  all  Southern  California, 


345 


constituting    about    one    fourth    of   the   whole 
people. 

Spadra,  29.3  miles,  is  just  500  miles  from 
San  Francisco,  and  a  town  of  a  few  houses. 

Pomona,  32.8  miles,  is  a  pretty  town  of  500 
people,  with  luxurious  vegetation.  Artesian  wells 
supply  water  for  the  town  and  for  irrigation.  A 
reservoir  holding  3,000,000  gallons  is  connected 
with  the  works. 

Cttcamonga,  42.3  miles,  is  only  a  signal  sta- 
tion, near  a  ranch  of  the  same  name  famed  for  its 
wines. 

Rincon  settlement  is  ten  miles  south,  irrigated 
by  the  Santa  Ana  River.  This  river  rises  in  the 
San  Bernardino  Mountains,  and  is  sometimes 
called  the  San  Bernardino  River.  Its  waters 
irrigate  numerous  colonies,  among  them  River- 
side, Santa  Ana,  Orange,  and  Anaheim. 

Colton,  57.5  miles,  is  named  after  General 
D.D.  Colton,  a  former  vice-president  of  the  road. 
Trains  going  east  stop  here  for  supper,  and  com- 
ing west  stop  for  breakfast.  It  has  only  200 
people,  but  a  busy  set,  for  it  is  the  depot  for  San 
Bernardino  on  the  north  and  Riverside  on  the 
south,  and  is  itself  the  seat  of  a  promising  col- 
ony. Owing  to  the  nature  of  the  soil,  it  is  free 
from  all  malarial  influences,  and  has  probably 
as  desirable  a  climate  for  invalids  as  any  place  on 
the  coast. 

Colton  is  the  seat  of  a  new  and  promising  col- 
ony, one  having  20,000  acres  of  land  divided 
into  farms  of  10  acres  and  upward.  Another, 
the  Slova  Mountain  Colony,  adjoins  the  town, 
and  has  fine  soil  and  pure  water  from  Mix's  Ranch. 

The  railroad  company  has  large  warehouses  to 
accommodate  the  freight  from  San  Bernardino 
and  Riverside.  Stages  connect  with  all  trains 
for  these  two  towns.  Fare  to  San  Bernardino,  50 
cents  ;  to  Riverside,  75  cents.  Near  the  station 
on  the  left  is  Slova  Mountain,  from  which  marble 
is  obtained. 

fiiverside  is  7  miles  south-west  of  Cotton.  It 
has  2000  people,  three  churches,  and  good 
schools,  and  8000  acres  of  choice  agricultural 
land  supplied  with  abundant  water  for  irrigation. 
It  has  all  the  advantages  of  climate  that  are  found 
in  the  San  Bernardino  Valley,  and  its  dry  air 
gives  it  a  claim  to  be  called  the  "Asthmatic's 
Paradise. ' '  With  mountains  on  nearly  every  side, 
its  situation  is  beautiful. 

Twenty  miles  south-west  are  the  Temescal 
Warm  Springs,  on  a  plateau  of  Temescal  Moun- 
tain, 1500  feet  above  a  valley  of  the  same  name. 
Frost  is  not  known  at  this  place,  owing  to  a  belt 
of  warm  air  in  which  the  springs  are  found. 

San  Bernardino,  4  miles  north  of  Colton,  is  the 
county  town  of  San  Bernardino  County,  and  has 
a  population  of  6000,  two  banks,  four  churches, 
good  hotels,  two  daily  and  two  weekly  news- 
papers. Nordhoff  says  it  has  a  climate  in  winter 
preferable  to  that  of  Los  Angeles,  and  no  hotter 


in  summer.  Two  hundred  artesian  wells  spout 
out  pure  cold  water  that  ripples  through  beauti- 
ful streets,  orchards,  and  orange  groves.  The 
valley  contains  2500  square  miles,  with  variety  of 
climate  as  you  ascend  the  mountain.  It  is  free 
from  the  fogs  of  the  coast,  and  strawberries  may 
be  picked  in  winter  as  well  as  summer. 

Old  San  Bernardino  is  also  a  town  in  this  valley 
near  the  railroad.  It  was  the  first  settlement, 
the  home  of  the  Mormons  who  located  in  1847. 
All  now  remaining  are  "  Josephites. "  Here  are 
the  oldest  orange  groves  in  the  valley,  and  the 
fruit  of  this  region  and  Riverside  surpasses  that 
of  San  Gabriel  or  any  part  of  the  coast  in  sweet- 
ness and  appearance.  It  is  free  from  the  black 
saline  rust  that  covers  so  much  of  the  golden 
color  nearer  the  coast. 

Crafton's  Retreat,  Arrowhead,  and  Waterman's 
Mineral  Springs  are  places  of  resort  in  this  vicin- 
ity, and  all  the  valleys  and  mountains  abound  with 
game.  Quail,  deer,  and  rabbits  are  especially 
plentiful. 

Soon  after  leaving  Colton,  the  road  crosses  the 
Santa  Ana  River,  and  continues  an  easterly  course 
through  Old  San  Bernardino,  and  up  the  San 
Miguel  Creek  to  the  San  Gorgonio  Pass,  where  the 
San  Bernardino  and  San  Jacinto  ranges  unite. 

Mound  City,  60.9  miles, 

El  Casco,  72  miles,  and 

San  Gorgonio,  80.6  miles,  are  all  signal 
stations. 

There  is  nothing  inviting  in  the  character  of 
the  soil,  and  but  little  for  the  tourist  to  miss 
while  he  sleeps  as  the  train  ascends  to  the  San 
Gorgonio  Pass,  2592  feet  above  the  sea.  Here 
the  descent  begins,  the  road  passing  down  the 
broad  open  valley  without  following  any  defined 
watercourse  until  it  reaches  White  Water  River, 
a  durable  stream  of  water  flowing  out  of  the  San 
Bernardino  range.  At  this  point  the  valley  grows 
broader,  and  finally  opens  out  into  what  is  known 
as  Cabazon  Valley,  down  which  the  road  con- 
tinues to  Indio. 

Banning,  86.8  miles,  is  a  signal  station,  and 

Cabazon,  92.7,  a  telegraph  station.  Wood 
from  the  San  Jacinto  Mountains  on  the  south  is 
brought  down  to  the  railroad  at  this  point. 

Named  from  the  Indians. 

White  Water,  101.2  miles,  named  from  the 
creek,  signifying  its  great  importance  in  a  dry 
and  thirsty  land.  It  is  in  the  midst  of  the  cacti, 
many  varieties  being  found  here.  The  cactus 
grows  only  in  gravelly  land,  and  the  zone  of  it 
will  disappear  and  reappear  again  near  Mammoth 
Tank.  There  are  many  forms  of  the  Mamillaria, 
Echinocactus,  and  several  of  the  Opuntia,  but 
none  of  the  Cereus. 

The  Opuntias  are  with  both  cylindrical  and 
elliptical  stems.     The  spinose  Opuntia  the  Mex- 
icans call  Ghoya. 
The  gigantic  "nigger-head"  (Echinoeactus  Cy- 


34(3 


lindraceus)  lifts  its  bristling  trunk  sometimes  four 
feet,  and  is  three  feet  in  diameter,  covered  with 
fish-hooks.  The  Mexicans  call  it  bisnaga.  It  can 
be  roasted  to  secure  a  drink  that  will  collect  in  a 
central  cavity,  and  its  fruit  can  be  eaten  in  small 
quantities. 

Sandstorms  are  a  noteworthy  characteristic  of 
this  desert,  and  especially  between  White  Water 
and  Walters.  They  occur  during  the  winter  and 
spring.  The  winds  come  principally  from  the 
north-west,  raising  and  carrying  before  them  great 
•iouds  of  pulverized  sand  and  dust.  The  ap- 
proach of  the  storm  may  be  seen  when  it  is  dis- 
tant several  hours.  The  fine  dust  will  penetrate 
every  thing.  No  garments  are  protection  against 
it.  Tnese  storms  last  generally  one  day,  some- 
times three  days. 

Seven  falms,  108.7  miles,  a  signal  station. 

Between  Seven  Palms  and  Indio  there  may  be 
seen  on  the  north  and  east  occasional  groves  of 
palm-trees,  along  the  foot-slopes  of  the  San  Ber- 
nardino Mountains.  This  is  the  only  opportunity 
to  see  palm-trees  on  all  the  road,  and  a  good  pic- 
ture of  them  will  be  more  satisfactory.  These 
distant  ones  (Brahia  Mexicana)  are  like  the  pal- 
metto of  South  Carolina  except  in  the  extreme 
roughness  of  the  serration  of  the  leaf-stalk.  They 
g  row  to  a  height  of  60  feet.  These  are  also  the 
only  kind  of  palm-trees  to  be  found  on  the  desert. 

The  numerous  forms  of  the  cereus,  and  one  of 
which,  the  candelabra,  called  by  the  Mexicans 
saghiiard,  sometimes  two  and  a  half  feet  thick 
and  fifty  feet  high,  are  found  only  east  of  the 
Colorado  River. 

Emigrants  crossing  the  desert  from  the  east 
hailed  these  groves  with  joy,  for  water  could  be 
had  either  in  springs  or  near  the  surface,  wher- 
ever the  palm-tree  grows.  About  three  or  four 
miles  west  of  Indio,  the  road  goes  below  sea- 
level,  and  continues  below  for  about  61  miles  1 

Indio ,  129.5  miles,  is  a  signal  station,  20  feet 
below  sea-level ! 

Sagebrush  is  nowhere  found  on  this  desert,  and 
but  little  of  it  on  the  Mojave  Plains.  Here  we 
find  two  of  the  species  of  the  mesquite-tree  (1) 
the  flat  pod  (Algarobia  Glandulosa),  and  (2)  the 
screw-bean  (Strombocarpa  Pubescens).  The  flat  pod 
is  the  largest,  most  abundant,  and  most  valuable. 
The  long,  bean-shaped  pod  is  greedily  devoured 
by  cattle,  and  highly  nutritious.  A  gum  exudes 
from  the  tree  which  closely  resembles  gum  arable 
in  its  chemical  characters.  The  trees  grow  15 
or  20  feet  high.  The  screw-bean  mesquite  is  a 
smaller  tree  than  the  flat  pod,  in  some  localities 
much  rarer,  and  is  less  valuable  for  food. 

Walters,  142.8  miles,  is  where  passenger  trains 
meet.  It  is  135  feet  below  the  sea-level.  Eleven 
miles  east  of  Walters  is  the  lowest  point  reached, 
the  minus  elevation  being  266£  feet  !  The  low- 
est point  of  the  valley  is  287£  feet,  and  the  whole 
depression  is  about  100  miles  long  and  from  10 


to  50  miles  wide.  In  the  lowest  levels  is  found 
an  immense  deposit  of  rock  salt,  destined  to  be  a 
source  of  great  industry. 

Dos  Palmos,  160.2  miles,  is  a  telegraph  sta- 
tion, and  the  only  place  between  Colton  and 
Yuma  at  which  there  is  local  traffic. 

Stages  leave  this  point  on  alternate  days  for 
Ehrenberg,  109  miles,  Wickenberg,  236  miles, 
and  Prescott,  297  miles.  Fare,  about  20  cents  a 
mile— to  Ehrenberg,  $20. 

Dos  Palmos  is  about  7  miles  from  an  old  stage- 
station  where  two  palm-trees  grew  by  the  side  ol 
a  large  spring — hence  its  name. 

Frink's  Spring,  171.1  miles,  a  signal  sta- 
tion. Depression,  260  feet. 

Five  miles  south  are  mud  springs,  covering 
many  miles.  Some  look  like  craters.  Mr.  Hood, 
who  has  visited  and  examined  them,  is  of  the 
opinion  that  the  hot  water  dissolves  and  carries 
off  the  mud  about  the  mouth,  and  thereby  causes 
the  ground  to  cave.  Gases  and  steam  issue  from 
some  of  these,  although  no  geyser  action  has 
been  noticed  there  so  extensive  as  Major  Heintzel- 
man  reported,  in  November,  1852,  from  another 
locality  about  4.5  miles  south-west  of  Yuma. 

Between  this  station  and  Flowing  Well  are 
some  new  and  striking  forms  of  vegetation  that 
will  grow  more  abundant.  Among  them  are  the 
"paloverde,"  the  "  ocotilla"  (oc-co-tee'-yah), 
"  iron- wood  "  tree,  and  the  "  galleta"  (gah-yee' 
tay)  grass.  Palo  verde  is  the  Mexican  for  green 
pole.  This  (Ccrcidium  Floridum)  resembles  the 
willow  slightly,  and  flowers  in  May.  It  is  then 
almost  covered  with  beautiful,  sweet  trumpet- 
shaped  flowers.  In  fruit  it  bears  an  abundance 
of  beans. 

From  Dos  Palmos  to  a  point  between  Frink's 
Spring  and  Flowing  Well  there  is  no  brush — 
nothing  but  complete  waste  and  utter  desolation. 

Flowing  Well,  188.8  miles,  with  an  elevation 
of  5  feet  above  sea-level.  Here  an  artesian  well 
was  bored,  and  at  160  feet  obtained  a  fine  flow  of 
water,  but  it  was  ' '  marah' ' — too  salt  to  use.  All 
the  stations  to  Yuma  are  now  only  signal  stations 
— L  f.,  the  train  runs  88i  miles — we  may  almost 
say  from  Colton,  191  miles — without  local  traffic. 

Between  Flowing  Well  and  the  Colorado  River 
there  is  an  abundance  of  the  creasote-bush 
(Larrea  Mexicana).  It  is  often  included  in  the 
vague  term  ' '  grease-wood. ' '  Between  Mammoth 
Tank  and  Yuma  it  is  the  prevailing  underbrush. 
The  leaf  is  waxy-like,  the  bark  very  dark  brown, 
almost  black,  and  it  grows  about  breast  high. 
Having  risen  from  below  the  level  of  the  sea,  from 
this  point  to  the  Colorado  River  bottom  there  may 
be  found  again  the  desert  growths  some  of  which 
were  noticed  at  White  Water  and  Indio. 

Tortuga,  194.8  miles,  has  an  altitude  of  183 
feet. 

Mammoth  Tank,  200.9  miles,  named  from  a 
natural  tank,  3^  miles  from  the  station,  with  a  ca- 


THE  THOUSAND  WELLS,   ARIZONA. 


VIEW   OF   PKESCOTT,    CAPITAL   OF   ARIZONA. 


348 


pacity  of  10,000  gallons.  Such  wells  are  called 
by  the  Mexicans  tinajas.  Some  are  formed  in 
gullies  and  arroyos  on  the  sides  of  the  mountains 
by  dams  composed  of  fragments  of  rock  and  sand, 
or  worn  out  of  the  solid  rock  where  the  water  falls 
down  upon  it.  Between  this  station  and  Yuma 
may  be  seen  the  most  striking  plant  on  these 
wastes.  The  Mexicans  call  it  ocotilla  (oc-co- 
tee'yah) — the  Fouquieria  Splendens.  It  grows  in 
clumps  consisting  of  from  twelve  to  twenty  long 
wand-like  branches,  which  spring  from  the  main 
stem  close  to  the  ground,  and  rise  to  a  height  of 
from  10  to  15  feet.  The  stems  are  beset  with  rows 
of  spines  from  the  axils  of  which  grow  small 
fascicles  of  leaves.  The  whole  stem  is  finally 
covered  with  bright  green,  and  beneath  this 
vivid  cover  are  hid  piercing  thorns.  The  flower 
is  on  the  top  of  the  stem,  six  or  eight  inches  long, 
and  consists  of  many  dark  purple  blossoms. 
Good  fences  are  made  of  these  poles.  They 
continue  green  for  years  after  being  set  in  the 
ground.  It  is  said  they  never  flower  if  the  tops 
are  once  cut  off.  In  the  bark  is  a  green  layer  of 
chlorophyl,  and  through  this  wonderful  provision 
of  nature  we  have  a  green  tree  without  leaves  ! 
Sometimes  it  looks  like  a  dry  thorny  stick,  but 
after  a  rain  it  becomes  greener,  and  if  the  rain  is 
sufficient  the  green  leaves  will  appear  in  bunches. 
Sometimes  it  flowers  without  putting  out  a  leaf  ! 
A  single  growth  is  also  marked  by  rings  around 
the  stem. 

Here  also  are  large  bunches  of  grass  (aristida), 
called  by  the  Mexicans  galleta  (gah-yee'-tay) 
grass. 

Here  is  found  also  the  desert  willow  (Chilopsis 
Lineasis),  with  beautiful  willow-like  foliage  and 
delicate  pink  and  white  trumpet-shaped  flowers. 
Here  is  also  the  iron-wood  (Olntya  Tesota),  re- 
sembling the  locust,  especially  in  its  blossom, 
which  is  pink  or  purple  and  abundant,  covering 
the  whole  tree  in  May.  The  beans  when  roasted 
are  quite  edible — much  like  peanuts.  This  is  the 
most  common  tree  between  Mammoth  Tank  and 
Yuma. 

Mesquite,  211.9  miles. 

Cactus*  225.7  miles.  This  station  was  named 
from  the  abundance  of  the  Ocotilla,  which  was 
supposed  by  many  to  be  cactus. 

From  Mammoth  Tank  the  road  has  been 
ascending,  and  here  the  elevation  is  396  feet. 
The  summit  is  near  the  station,  and  397  feet  ele- 
vation. Adding  to  this  the  depression  of  266 
feet,  and  the  whole  rise  is  nearly  equal  to  that  in 
the  Livermore  Pass.  From  this  point  the  road 
lescends  to  the  Colorado  River,  Yuma  City  hav- 
ing an  elevation  of  140  feet. 

To  the  left  will  be  noticed  a  prominent  peak, 
yellowish  in  appearance.  It  has  not  yet  been 
named  except  in  the  local  dialect,  "  Cargo  Mu- 
chacho." 


Pilot  Knob,  239.3  miles,  is  only  a  mile  from  a 
peak  of  the  same  name,  seen  on  the  right. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Yuma,  in  the  bottom  of  the 
Colorado  River,  are  found  both  kinds  of  mesquite, 
and  the  arrow-weed  (Tessaria  Borealis),  consisting 
of  straight  shoots  from  4  to  8  feet  high,  with  a 
silvery  pubescence  on  the  leaves.  It  is  the  princi- 
pal growth  of  the  Colorado  River  bottoms. 

Before  crossing  the  river,  the  road  runs  near 
Fort  Yuma,  a  military  post  established  in  1852. 
It  is  situated  on  a  bluff,  witli  a  commanding  view. 
Tne  garrison  is  small,  and  with  the  advance  of 
civilization  promises  to  be  withdrawn  before 
many  years. 

The  fort  is  on  a  butte  rising  about  200  feet  above 
the  river  bottom,  and  along  the  river  is  a  bold 
cliff  of  the  same  height.  The  river  is  about  300 
yards  wide  at  this  point,  and  near  it  the  Colorado 
and  the  Gila  unite. 

From  the  bluff  there  is  a  commanding  view  of 
the  town  across  the  river,  of  mesas,  valleys,  and 
mountains. 

The  Castle  Dome  Mountains  are  on  the  north 
and  east,  and  north  of  this  range  and  west  are  the 
' '  Purple  Hills, ' '  and  between  these  and  the  Castle 
Dome  is  the  channel  of  the  Colorado,  the  lin, 
between  California  and  Arizona. 

Cargo  Muchaco  is  south-west. 

Yuma,  248.7  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  and 
719.4  from  San  Francisco,  i&  approached  by  a 
five-span  Howe  truss  bridge.  It  is  an  oasis  to  the 
traveler,  but  Colonel  Hinton  describes  the  out- 
ward aspect  of  the  scene  thus  : 

"  Sand-hills  to  right  of  them, 
Sand-hills  to  left  of  them, 
Sand-hills  in  front  of  them." 

There  are  1500  people  and  one  principal  street 
in  the  town.  This  is  the  point  of  departure  for 
nearly  all  towns  and  mining  districts  in  Arizona, 
and  many  in  Mexico  and  New  Mexico. 

The  'buildings  are  only  a  story  high,  of  sod  or 
adobe,  with  walls  often  four  feet  thick,  and  flat 
roofs  made  of  poles  covered  with  willows,  cloth, 
or  raw  hide,  and  one  or  two  feet  of  dirt  on  top. 
Verandas  from  ten  to  twenty  feet  wide  surround 
the  houses  on  all  sides. 

The  climate  is  excessively  hot,  the  mercury 
standing  for  days  at  120°  in  the  shade.  Some- 
times it  reaches  127°  in  the  shade,  and  160°  in  the 
sun.  The  natives  wear  less  clothing  than  the 
negroes  of  the  far  South,  and  the  people  need  no 
blankets  for  sleeping  in  the  open  air. 

Visitors  will  notice  many  peculiarities.  High 
fences,  surround  most  of  the  huts,  made  of 
rawhides  and  stakes  of  irregular  heights.  The 
people  sleep  on  the  roofs  of  their  huts  eight 
months  of  the  year.  The  only  church  is  the 
Roman  Catholic.  The  Sentinel,  weekly,  the  only 
paper. 


349 


The  Steamers  of  the  Colorado  Steam  Navigation  Co. 


Leave  Yuma  weekly  from  January  1st  to 
November  1st,  and  during  November  and  De- 
cember every  alternate  Saturday. 

Steamers  leave  for  Camp  Mojave  every  fifth 
•week,  and  continue  to  El  Dorado  Canon  from 
May  1st  to  November  1st,  if  the  water  permits. 

Yuma  to  Castle  Dome,  thirty-five  miles,  $5; 
Ehrenberg,  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles, 
$15;  Aubrys,  two  hundred  and  twenty  miles, 
$28;  Camp  Mojave,  three  hundred  rniles,  $35; 
Hardyville,  three  hundred  and  twelve  miles, 
$35;  El  Dorado  Canon,  three  hundred  and 
sixty-five  miles,  $45. 


All  these  points  are  on  the  Colorado  Eiver, 
which  is  one  thousand  two  hundred  miles  long. 
For  six  hundred  miles  in  Arizona  it  flows 
through  deep  canons,  and  receives  more  than 
twenty  tributaries  and  falls  about  three  thou- 
sand feet.  The  descent  of  its  canons  was 
accomplished  with  peril  by  Colonel  Powell, 
of  the  United  States  ArmfT,  in  1369  and 
1871. 

At  Yuma  the  train  will  take  tbo  trareler  by 
the  Central  Pacific  Railroad,  operated,  under 
temporary  lease. 


Southern  Pacific  Railroad  of  Arizona* 


During  the  winter  and  spring  of  1878  and 
1879  the  Southern  Pacific  railroad  of  Arizona 
was  pushed  eastward  from  Yuma  to  Casa  Grande, 
182  miles,  giving  a  continuous  line  from  San 
Francisco  of  913  miles,  18  more  miles  than  the 
distance  from  San  Francisco  to  Ogden. 

The  general  course  is  east  to  Maricopa,  through 
the  Gila  Valley. 

Leaving  Yuma,  we  find  Castle  Dome  Peak 
and  range  on  the  left  hand  or  north  of  the  river. 
Its  outline  suggested  its  name.  On  the  south 
side  of  the  Gila  river  is  the  Sonora  mesa — an 
extensive,  hard,  gravelly  plain,  and  in  about  an 
hour's  travel  one  reaches  the  Pass  where  the 
bluffs  of  the  Gila  range,  cut  by  the  river,  de- 
termined the  location  of  the  road  near  the 
water.  The  work  on  the  road-bed  through  this 
range  was  the  most  difficult  encountered  be- 
tween Yuma  and  the  present  terminus  at  Casa 
Grande. 

Across  the  river  may  be  seen  Boot  Mountain, 
and  east  of  this,  or  to  the  right  of  it.  is  the  con- 
tinuation of  the  Gila  range,  Los  Floros,  and 


further  to  the  right  and  east  of  Gila  City,  Mug- 
gin's  range. 

The  mountains  of  all  this  region  are  groups 
of  volcanic  peaks,  lying  along  an  obscure  axis. 
There  seems  to  be  an  opening  directly  ahead  of 
the  traveler,  but  when  he  reaches  it  one  of 
these  rounded  or  irregular  mountains  is  again  in 
front  of  him  and  he  must  wind  about  on  long 
curves. 

The  opening  made  by  the  valley  of  the  Gila 
river  is  of  the  utmost  importance  for  a  trans- 
continental railroad.  For  nearly  2,000  miles  of 
mountain  after  mountain,  from  north  to  south, 
it  is  the  only  highway  prepared  by  nature  from 
east  to  west,  to  connect  the  basin  of  the  Missis- 
sippi and  the  Pacific  ocean. 

(jrila  City,  15.7  miles  from  Yuma,  has  an 
elevation  of  149  feet.  One  must  wonder  how 
such  an  imposing  name  could  ever  have  been 
given  unless  in  mockery,  for  there  is  not  even  a 
side  track.  But  once  it  had  a  thousand  miners 
who  carried  sacks  of  gold  from  their  "  dry  dig- 
gings "  to  wash  it  in  the  river. 


350 


The  scarcity  of  water  that  strewed  the  terri- 
tory with  countless  skeletons  of  animals  and  men, 
was  encountered  in  the  construction  of  the  rail- 
road, the  only  supply  being  from  the  river.  To 
avoid  the  fate  of  others  it  was  transported  from 
the  rear,  like  the  iron  and  the  ties.  Here  there 
is  now  a  steam-pump  that  supplies  a  large  tank 
for  railroad  purposes. 

Leaving  Gila  City,  the  road  runs  more  south- 
erly for  a  few  miles,  and  then  turns  eastward. 

The  soil  of  the  valley  is  the  sediment  that  has 
been  washed  down  from  the  surrounding  mount- 
ains and  is  exceedingly  fertile.  This  silt,  or  fine 
sand,  clay  and  earth  covers  volcanic  rock,  mostly 
basalt. 

The  mountains  are  usually  masses  of  granite  ; 
but  many  of  them  are  only  sand  and  lava. 

To  the  forms  of  vegetation  that  are  local  and 
remarkable — such  as  have  been  noticed  before 
reaching  Yuma,  we  must  add  new  forms  of 
•actus  and  especially  the  cactus  candelabra  (cereus 
giganteu*),  called  by  the  Mexicans  sahuaro  (soo- 
war-row)  and  by  the  Indians  "  harsee."  It  has 
a  pale  green,  prickly  trunk,  20  or  30  and  some- 
times even  60  feet  high,  with  a  diameter  occa- 
sionally of  three  feet.  The  prickers  are  in  regular 
rows.  Often  it  is  without  a  single  branch,  stand- 
ing like  a  pillar  in  the  desert,  but  sometimes 
gigantic  branches  shoot  out  laterally  from  the 
trunk,  and  then  turn  upward,  elbow-like,  and 
ascend  parallel  to  the  parent  stock.  It  is  the 
great  giant  of  the  plains  and  the  most  interest- 
ing cactus  in  the  world.  The  trunk  is  a  mass  of 
ribs  one  or  two  inches  wide  and  about  the  same 
distance  apart,  extending  from  the  root  to  the 
top.  When  green  the  interstices  between  these 
ribs  and  the  hollow  cavity  of  the  trunk  is  filled 
with  a  dark  green  succulent  substance  somewhat 
like  a  melon.  The  bark  is  easily  ignited,  and  in 
a  strong  wind  the  fire  will  flash  quickly  to  the 
very  top,  but  without  injuring  the  vitality  of  the 
plant.  By  these  fires  the  Apache  gave  their  sig- 
nals in  time  of  war.  The  growth  is  slow,  only  a 
few  inches  a  year.  When  the  tree  dies  the  whole 
of  the  succulent  interior  dries  up,  and  is  blown 
away  like  an  impalpable  powder.  The  strong 
and  elastic  ribs  are  then  used  for  covering  adobe 
houses,  and  many  other  purposes.  The  flower  is 
seen  in  May,  is  of  a  pale  yellow,  appears  at  the 
extremity  of  both  branch  and  trunk.  The  fruit 
appears  in  June  and  is  shaped  like  a  small  pear. 
It  is  gathered  by  the  Indians,  who  use  for  the 
purpose  a  fork  on  a  long  pole,  or  else  is  found 
where  it  falls  when  the  birds  detiich  it  in  seeking 
to  open  the  outer  covering  to  secure  the  dark  red 
pulp  within — a  pulp  sweet  and  delicate  and  riv- 
aling any  gooseberry.  It  is  highly  prized  by 
both  Indians  and  whites.  From  it  the  Mexicans 
make  a  syrup  and  agreeable  preserves. 

Distributed  over  the  whole  territory  there  is 
the  common  prickly  pear  cactus,  producing  dif- 


ferent colored  flowers  and  a  fruit  of  a  pleasant 
slightly  acid  taste.  As  many  as  1,000,  it  is  said, 
grow  on  a  single  bush. 

One  of  the  most  useful  and  important  plants 
is  the  celebrated  Indian  maguey — an  agave — 
with  a  bulbous  root,  like  a  lily  partly  above 
ground,  and  varying  in  size  from  that  of  a  man's 
head  to  a  camel's  hump.  It  is  full  of  saccha- 
rine matter,  and  delicious  when  tasted.  The 
juice  of  the  plant  is  boiled  down  into  a  good 
syrup,  and  by  distillation  a  favorite  liquor  is 
made  from  the  plant — the  strong  drink  of  the 
Mexicans.  The  fiber  of  the  leaves  is  strong  and 
much  used  by  the  Indians  and  Mexicans  for 
ropes. 

Much  gramma  grass  will  be  seen — valuable 
food  for  horses. 

About  40  miles  from  Yuma,  Poso  Butte  is 
opposite  on  the  right  hand  or  south,  and  on  the 
north  an  old  stage  station  called  Antelope.  The 
river  is  from  four  to  ten  miles  distant  most  of 
the  way  to  Gila  Bend. 

Mohawk  Summit,  56.1  miles  from  Yuma, 
has  an  elevation  of  540  feet.  This  has  been 
overcome  at  a  grade  not  exceeding  one  foot  in  a 
100,  and  the  descent  eastward  is  on  the  same 
easy  scale.  The  Mohawk  range  runs  north  and 
south,  and  though  broken  may  be  traced  on  both 
sides  of  the  river.  Before  reaching 

Texas  Hill,  63.7  miles  from  Yuma,  where 
trains  meet  at  noon,  the  road  has  descended  to 
the  level  of  the  mesa,  nearly  two  miles  from  the 
gap.  Here  water  is  again  pumped  from  the 
river,  the  last  supply  to  be  had  until  the  engine 
reaches  Gila  Bend. 

Stamvix  is  85  miles  from  Yuma.  At  this 
point,  one  is  in  the  midst  of  the  great  lava  beds, 
and  all  around  is  ashes  and  desolation,  but  an 
intensely  interesting  field,  both  as  to  the  past 
and  the  future.  "  In  the  rectangle  contained  by 
parallels  32  deg.,  45  min.,  and  34  deg.  °'»  min., 
a.nd  the  meridians  107  deg.,  30  min.,  and  110  deg., 
more  than  nine-tenths  of  the  surface  is  of  vol- 
canic material ;  and  from  this  main  body  there 
stretch  two  chief  arms — the  one  going  north-east 
80  miles  to  Mt.  Taylor,  and  the  other  west- 
north-west  175  miles  in  Arizona  to  the  San 
Francisco  group  of  volcanoes." 

Sentinel,  89.6  miles  from  Yuma,  is  a  so-called 
station,  with  nothing  that  is  not  common  to  many 
miles  of  the  road. 

Painted  Rock,  103.5  miles  from  Yuma,  is 
no  more  important  as  a  station,  but  as  the  name 
implies  has  much  interest  for  the  archaeologist 
and  the  curious.  It  calls  to  mind  the  old  stage 
station  of  the  same  name  along  the  river,  where 
rude  hieroglyphics  made  upon  the  rocks  have 
baffled  so  far  all  efforts  to  decipher  them  more 
effectually  than  the  cuneiform  inscriptions  of 


331 


PINTADOS,    OB  PAINTED  BOCKS,   ARIZONA. 


KTJIN8  OF  CASA  GBANDE,   ABIZONA. 


352 


the  Assyrian  kingdom  or  the  picture-writing  of 
ancient  Egypt.  These  "Pedros  Pintados,"  or 
painted  rocks,  are  north  of  the  railroad  along 
the  old  stage  road,  and  consist  of  huge  boulders 
piled  40  or  50  feet  high,  and  isolated  in  the  great 
plain.  How  they  came  there  is  as  unknown  as 
the  meaning  of  their  grotesque  carvings  or  paint- 
ings. It  is  probable  that  they  were  gathered 
without  any  direct  agency  of  man.  They  are 
covered  with  rude  representations  of  men,  beasts, 
birds,  reptiles  and  things  imaginary  and  real, 
and  some  of  the  representations  express  events 
in  human  life.  It  is  supposed  that  they  record 
the  battles  between  the  Yumas,  Cocopahs,  Mar- 
icopas  and  Pinahs,  or  that  councils  were  here 
held  and  recorded.  The  majority  of  those  who 
have  viewed  them  consider  them  as  of  recent 
origin,  dating  no  farther  back  than  the  begin- 
ning of  the  seventeenth  century,  and  there  are 
those  who  ascribe  them  to  the  Aztec  and  even 
Toltec  civilizations. 

The  range  of  mountains  noticed  on  the  north 
aide  of  the  railroad  is  the  Sierra  Colorado. 

Gila  Bend,  119.3  miles  from  Yuma,  is  where 
water  is  again  pumped  from  the  river  to  supply 
the  engines  on  the  road,  and  named  from  the 
bend  of  the  river  to  the  north.  The  distance  by 
the  river  to  Maricopa  is  150  miles,  and  by  the 
railroad  only  45  !  The  range  of  hills  crossed  by 
the  road,  and  which  has  pushed  the  river  off  to 
the  north,  making  the  Gila  Bend,  is  crossed  at 
an  elevation  of  1,520  feet,  and  after  crossing  it 
the  Mariposa  desert  extends  off  to  the  north, 
and  on  the  south  is  bordered  by  high  broken 
mountains. 

Estrella,  138.1  miles  from  Yuma,  is  of  no 
importance  unless  it  be  to  mark  the  Sierra  Es- 
trella  range,  on  the  north  or  left  hand  side. 

Maricopa,  156.3  miles  from  Yuma,  is  the 
first  point  of  importance  reached  after  leaving 
the  Colorado  river.  It  is  situated  on  a  curve  in 
the  road  fioe  miles  long,  with  a  radius  of  six  and 
a  half  miles  !  The  elevation  is  1,182  feet.  Six 
miles  north  is  the  old  stage  station  of  Maricopa 
Wells,  two  miles  further  north  the  Gila  River. 
This  is  destined  to  become  of  great  importance 
in  Arizona.  The  Santa  Cruz  Valley,  running 
north  and  south,  and  lying  east  of  this  station, 
has  in  it  good  land  covered  with  a  thick  growth 
of  sage  brush,  and  added  to  the  arable  land 
along  the  Gila  will  form  an  extensive  agricultu- 
ral country  centering  around  Maricopa.  Water 
is  abundant  and  is  supplied  for  the  railroad  and 
temporarily  for  the  town,  from  a  well  60  feet 
deep.  In  digging  this  well  at  40  feet  there  was 
encountered  a  strata  of  lava  two  feet  thick,  then 
a  few  leet  of  sand,  and  then  again  a  strata  of 
lava,  and  beneath  this  a  copious  supply  of  water. 
About  five  miles  from  Maricopa  and  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  above  the  plain  there  is  a  large  spring 


that  will  no  doubt  be  utilized  to  supply  water  to 
the  new  town. 

Much  of  the  importance  of  the  place  will  be 
derived  from  its  being  the  base  of  supply  for  the 
Salt  River  Valley — a  rich  agricultural  Valley 
from  five  to  ten  miles  wide,  and  lying  along  the 
river,  more  than  100  miles  long.  The  river  flows 
through  an  immense  salt  bed,  but  the  water  is 
nevertheless  used  successfully  for  irrigation.  In 
this  valley  Phoenix  is  the  center  of  business  and 
has  a  population  of  about  2,000.  Around  it  are 
10,000  acres  of  land  under  cultivation,  mostly  in 
farms  of  160  acres.  It  is  30  miles  from  Mari- 
copa— fare,  $5.00. 

North-west  of  Phoenix  and  90  miles  from  Mari- 
copa is  Wickenburg,  just  south  of  the  line  divid- 
ing Ma.ricopa  and  Yavapai  counties.  It  is  a 
town  of  about  300  inhabitants.  The  capital  of 
the  territory  is  at  Prescott,  130  miles  north  of 
Maricopa  (fare  $25.00,  time  24  hours)  and  is  the 
centre  of  trade  for  the  most  populous  region  of 
the  territory,  and  has  about  5,000  inhabitants. 
It  has  excellent  schools  and  churches,  a  promis- 
ing library  association  and  a  larger  volume  of 
business  than  any  other  town  in  the  territory, 
but  must  look  to  her  laurels  since  the  extension 
of  the  railroad  promises  many  revolutions.  The 
town  was  named  in  honor  of  the  historian  who 
has  best  studied  and  written  the  early  history  of 
the  country.  Leaving  Maricopa,  the  general 
course  of  the  road  is  southeast  toward  Tucson 
(Too-song),  and  the  present  terminus  is  at 

Casa  Grande,  182  miles  from  Yuma,  and 
913  miles  from  San  Francisco.  It  is  22  miles 
from  Florence  and  about  100  from  Tucson.  At 
the  end  of  the  long  curve,  the  road  strikes  a 
tangent  toward  Tucson  about  50  miles  long,  the 
longest  part  of  the  road  without  curve  between 
Tuma  and  this  point. 

Casa  Grande  is  named  from  the  extensive  ruins 
of  an  ancient  civilization.  Irrigating  ditches, 
fragments  of  broken  pottery,  crumbling  walls, 
even  yet  two  and  three  stories  in  height,  and  all 
only  a  fragment  of  what  was  seen  by  the  first 
Spanish  explorers,  attest  the  greatness  of  what 
is  now  so  mysterious.  Here  is  the  point  of  de- 
parture for  Florence  on  the  north-east  and  Tucson 
in  the  direction  in  which  the  road  is  to  be  ex- 
tended. 

Florence  is  the  county  seat  of  Pinal  county, 
and  like  all  the  Arizona  towns  is  in  the  center 
of  important  mines.  It  is  surrounded,  too,  by 
rich  agricultural  land,  and  has  water  running 
through  its  streets  like  Salt  Lake  City.  The 
population  is  nearly  2,000.  All  the  buildings 
are  of  adobe,  owing  to  the  high  price  of  tim- 
ber. 

Euins  of  Casa  Grande,  Fainted  Bocks, 
Cliffe  Houses,  Cave  Dwellings,  etc. — The 
Gila  Valley  for  150  miles,  including  the  region  of 
Casa  Grande,  and  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  is 


353 


covered  with  the  ruins  of  cities, 
irrigating  canals,  and  broken  pottery 
of  all  sorts.  The  ruins  are  similar  to 
those  of  Zuni,  Taos,  Jamez,  Pecos, 
Mancos  and  McElmo  Canons  and 
others  known,  and  perhaps  many  yet 
unknown,  in  Arizona,  New  Mexico, 
southeast  Colorado  and  southern 
Utah,  and  to  those  discovered  in 
Mexico  and  Yucatan.  '  'Casa  Grande, " 
the  Great  House,  is  the  best  pre- 
served, but  by  no  means  the  largest. 
It  is  a  few  miles  from  the  station  of 
the  same  name,  in  Arizona,  has  walls 
of  gray  concrete  nearly  40  feet  high, 
63  long,  45  wide  and  5  feet  thick  at 
the  base. 

None  of  the  ruins  are  more  inter- 
esting than  the  "  Cliff  Houses  "and 
"Cave  Dwellings  "  in  Colorado.  In 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  these  the 
ground  is  covered,  sometimes  for 
miles,  with  broken  pottery,  stone 
implements,  and  traces  of  vast  irri- 
gating canals.  Some  of  the  edifices 
had  each  from  one  to  six  hundred 
apartments  and  held  from  500  to 
4,000  Indians.  They  were  of  several, 
sometimes  five,  stories,  and  all  en- 
tered by  means  of  ladders.  On  the 
Mancos  River  there  are  a  large  num- 
ber of  houses  constructed  of  cut 
stone — a  soft  (tufa)  rock  cut  by  im- 
plements made  of  hardev  stone,  at- 
tached to  handles  like  an  adze — and 
large  round  towers  of  the  same 
material.  These  towers  were  prob- 
ably the  places  in  which  they  wor- 
shipped Montezuma,  the  Culture 
god  of  the  Aztecs.  The  altars,  if 
there  were  any,  have  crumbled.  Mr. 
Stevenson,  a  government  explorer 
under  Major  Powell,  found  60  miles 
of  cliffs  ''human  swallows'  nests," 
in  which.  100,000  people  may  have 
lived  at  the  same  time. 

The  origin  and  uses  of  all  these  buildings 
have  attracted  much  attention,  and  the  subject 
has  been  but  partially  examined  as  yet.  The 
theories  of  Humboldt,  Gregg,  Bell,  Domenich, 
Prescott,  Abbe  de  Brasbourg,  Baldwin  and 
Bancroft,  and  detailed  descriptions  of  most  of 
the  Arizona  ruins,  may  be  found  in  Hinton's 
"  Hand-Book  of  Arizona. "  This  last-named  au- 
thor concludes  that  the  Aztec  form  of  life  is 
marked  in  the  pueblos  of  New  Mexico,  and 
that  the  ruins  of  Arizona  and  southwest  Colo- 
rado are  older,  and  of  Toltec  origin.  But  any 
one  desiring  the  fullest  information  must  con- 
sult thft  reports  of  Prof.  "W.  H.  Jackson,  Hon. 
Lewis  £L  Morgan,  of  Rochester,  N.  Y. ,  and  Mr. 


CUFF 


DWELLINGS,  MANCOS  CANON,  SOUTHWESTERN 
COLORADO. 

James  Stevenson,  of  "Washington,  D.  C.,  and 
others,  published  under  direction  of  Major 
Powell  and  Col.  Hayden.  The  elaborate  report 
of  Mr.  Morgan,  "Contributions  to  American 
Ethnology,"  Vol.  IV. ,  1881,  says :  "The  Indian 
edifices  in  New  Mexico  and  Central  America, 
of  the  period  of  the  Conquest,  may  well  excite 
surprise,  and  even  admiration,  from  their  pala- 
tial extent,  from  the  material  used  in  their  con- 
struction, and,  from  the  character  of  their 
ornamentation,  they  are  highly  creditable  to 
their  skill  in  architecture.  A  common  $rinc;ple 
runs  through  all  this  architecture,  from  the 
long-house  of  the  Iroquois,  to  the  pueblo 
houses  of  New  Mexico,  and  to  the  so-called 


354 


CUFF  HOUSE,   MANCOS  CANON,   SOUTHEASTERN  COLOBADO. 


place  of  Palenque  and  the  Honse  of  the  Nuns, 
at  Uxmal.  It  is  the  principle  of  communism  in 
living" 

There  are  about  20  pueblos  in  New  Mexico 
inhabited  by  about  7,000  village  Indians,  and 
there  are  seven  pueblos  of  the  Moquis  near  the 
Little  Colorado  and  about  3,000  Indians. 

The  Painted  Bocks,  Piedros  Pintados  (page 
551),  are  near  Gila  Bend.  The  mass  is  scat- 


tered over  nearly  an  acre  of  ground.  One 
shaft  rises  about  fifty  feet.  On  the  surface  are 
rude  carvings  of  men,  birds,  reptiles  and 
hieroglyphics  as  yet  undeciphered.  They, 
perhaps,  record  battles  between  the  different 
tribes,  and  other  events. 

Similar  hieroglyphics  abound  in  Mancos  and 
McElmo  canons  and  other  parts  of  Arizona, 
Colorado  and  New  Mexico. 


355 


356 


Picacho — 931.9  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
only  a  side  track,  near  the  peak  of  the  same 
name.  The  word  is  a  common  one  for  an  iso- 
lated peak,  and  this  one,  so  prominent  for  many 
miles  between  Tucson  and  Yuma,  has  almost 
monopolized  the  name.  It  is  seen  for  many 
miles,  and  is  a  noted  landmark  between  Tuc- 
son and  Yuma. 

Red  Rock,  945.8,  and  Rillito,  961.3  miles 
from  San  Francisco  are  also  unimportant.  But 
there  comes  into  view  the  oldest  city  in  America — 

Tucson,  978.4  miles  from  San  Francisco. 
This  is  now  usually  pronounced  Tooson.  It  was 
supposed  to  be  a  Spanish  word,  but  it  is  un- 
doubtedly an  Indian  word  and  the  correct  pro- 
nunciation is  Tooke-son,  and  signifies  good  land. 
It  is  the  county  seat  of  Pima  County,  and  situ- 
ated on  the  Santa  Cruz  River,  about  75  miles 
from  the  Gila  River,  the  same  distance  from  So- 
nora  and  370  miles  from  Guaymas. 

It  owes  its  early  settlement  and  much  of  its 
present  importance  to  the  Santa  Cruz  River — a 
river  that  is  seen  and  then  not  seen — flowing 
alternately  above  and  beneath  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  but  nearly  always  beneath.  A  few  miles 
south  of  Tucson  the  river  appears  above  the  sur- 
face of  the  ground,  flows  past  the  mesa  on  which 
the  town  is  built,  and  affords  irrigation  for  sev- 
eral thousand  acres  of  land. 

The  exact  date  of  settlement  is  not  known.  A 
Jnile  or  more  south-west  of  the  town  are  the  ruins 
of  the  old  mission  church  built  by  the  Jesuits. 
The  first  homes  made  by  civilized  people  were  on 
the  bottom  lands  from  the  San  Xavier  mission 
toward  Tucson,  and  in  time  a  presidio  (military 
camp)  was  established  on  the  present  site  to  pro- 
tect the  settlers,  and  around  this  the  town  grew. 
It  was  an  important  station  in  the  Butterfield 
overland  stage-time,  and  was  occupied  during 
the  rebellion  by  a  company  of  Texas  cavalry, 
who  were  in  turn  driven  out  by  California  volun- 
teers. It  became  an  extensive  military  depot 
and  has  carried  on  a  large  trade  with  Sonora  and 
Sinaloa. 

The  town  lies  between  the  railroad  and  the 
river,  and  to  one  stepping  out  of  the  cars  appears 
to  be  nothing  considering  its  age  or  estimated 
importance.  But  the  houses  are  of  adobe  brick, 
and  with  scarce  an  exception,  only  one  story 
high.  They  are  flush  with  the  narrow  streets, 
and  the  streets  destitute  of  trees  or  shrubbery. 
As  in  all  Mexican  towns,  the  plaza  is  prominent, 
and  on  it  is  the  Catholic  church.  Business  for- 
merly centered  around  the  plaza,  but  with  the 
energy  of  the  Americans  the  modern  ways  of 
Mexican  civilization  are  breaking  up  and  the 
principal  business  has  left  the  plaza  and  passed 
to  other  streets. 

At  the  western  edge  of  the  town  there  is  a  de- 
lightful park.  Cottonwood  trees  of  only  a  few 


years'  growth  have  attained  great  height  under 
the  influence  of  irrigation,  and  furnish  a  shade 
and  a  cool  retreat  that  every  one  must  appreciate 
because  the  town  is  almost  destitute  in  other  re- 
spects of  any  shade.  The  citizens  throng  this 
park  every  evening,  and  the  stranger  is  driven  to 
it  to  enjoy  the  pleasant  coolness. 

The  population  of  the  town,  now  about  8,000, 
is  steadily  increasing.  There  are  two  banking- 
houses,  Safford,  Hudson  &  Co.,  and  the  Pima 
County  Bank.  In  seven  months  one  of  these 
bought  and  sold  nearly  $2,800,000  in  exchange. 

Some  of  the  mercantile  firms  do  a  wholesale 
and  retail  business  amounting  to  millions  of  dol- 
lars per  annum,  and  carry  stocks  of  merchandise 
that  one  is  surprised  to  see  outside  of  San  Fran- 
cisco. Bnt  Tucson  is  the  commercial  center  of 
a  large  portion  of  the  state  and  parts  of  Mexico 
and  New  Mexico.  From  it  are  supplied  the  min- 
ing camps  of  Arivaca  district,  70  miles  east  of 
south ;  Oro  Blanco  district,  adjoining  Arivaca 
on  the  east,  and  76  miles  distant;  Tyndall  dis- 
trict, 60  miles  south;  Aztec  district,  adjoining 
Tyndall ;  some  mines  in  Sonora  about  12  miles 
south  of  Oro  Blanco  owned  by  Senator  Jones  and 
others;  and  the  Pima  district  about  25  miles 
south-west  of  Tucson. 

It  is  also  the  center  of  the  agriculture  and 
stock-raising  of  the  fertile  lands  along  the  river. 
Nine  miles  from  Tucson  is  one  of  the  most  inter- 
esting structures  on  the  coast — the  old  mission  of 
San  Xavier  Del  Bac. 

One  road  leads  past  "  Silver  Lake  "  formed  by 
damming  up  the  watersof  the  river — then  through 
groves  of  mesquit  reminding  one  of  the  oak  groves 
in  the  valley  ot  California,  then  on  the  mesa  land 
where  the  hard,  gravelly,  but  natural,  road-bed  is 
good  enough  to  be  mistaken  for  a  race-course  or 
national  turnpike.  The  mission  was  founded 
in  1654,  and  is  now  on  the  reservation  of  the 
Papago  Indians.  These  are  Pima  Indians  who 
are  supposed  to  have  accepted  the  Christian  re- 
ligion. 

The  present  edifice  was  begun  in  1768  on  the 
ruins  of  a  predecessor  of  the  same  name,  and 
completed  in  1798 — excepting  one  of  the  towers, 
yet  unfinished.  The  style  of  architecture  is 
Moorish  and  Byzantine.  The  lines  are  wonder- 
fully perfect.  It  is  in  the  form  of  a  cross  70  x 
115  feet,  and  from  its  walls  there  rises  a  well- 
formed  dome  and  two  minarets.  A  balustrade 
surmounts  all  the  walls  and  has  48  griffons,  one 
at  every  turn.  The  front  is  covered  with  scroll- 
work, intricate,  interesting  and  partly  decayed. 
Over  the  front  is  a  life-sized  bust  of  Saint  Fran- 
cis Xavier.  The  interior  is  literally  covered  with 
frescoes,  the  altar  adorned  with  gilded  scroll- 
work, and  statues  are  as  numerous  as  the  paint- 
ings. The  tiling  on  the  floor  and  roof  is  nearly 
all  as  perfect  to-day  as  when  laid,  but  its  manu- 
facture is  one  of  the  lost  arts.  It  is  marveloms 


35T 


358 


that  so  long  ago  and  in  such  a  place,  such  archi- 
tecture, ornaments,  painting  and  sculpture  were 
so  well  constructed  with  even  patience  and  perse- 
verance. No  one  should  fail  to  procure  tickets  of 
admission  from  the  priest  in  Tucson  and  visit 
this  interesting  relic. 

Tucson  has  four  newspapers.  The  Arizona 
Citizen  and  Arizona  Star  have  daily  and  weekly 
editions.  The  Pima  County  Record  is  a  weekly, 
and  the  Mexican  population  have  another  weekly 
in  their  own  language — El  Fronteriza. 

There  are  two  breweries,  two  ice  machines, 
and  two  hotels,  a  public  school,  parochial  (Cath- 
olic) school,  a  convent,  a  private  school  and  a 
Catholic  and  a  Presbyterian  church. 

Seven  miles  from  Tucson,  on  the  Rillito  creek, 
and  at  the  base  of  the  Santa  Catarina  mountains, 
is  Fort  Lowell,  with  a  capacity  of  one  battalion. 
The  buildings  are  the  most  attractive  in  the  re- 
gion, and  it  is  probable  that  the  Fort  will  soon 
be  the  head-quarters  for  Arizona. 

PapaffO,  993  miles  from  San  Francisco,  is 
only  a  side  track. 

Pantano,  1,006.5  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
at  the  Cienega  creek.  It  is  a  canvas  town  of  a 
dozen  tents  and  one  or  two  small  adobe  houses. 
While  it  was  the  terminus  of  the  road  and  stages 
left  daily  for  New  Mexico  and  Tombstone,  it  had 
a  lively  air  ;  but  one  familiar  to  its  busy  scenes 
will  soon  be  unable  to  recognize  it.  Its  perma- 
nence and  importance  will  arise  from  its  being 
the  base  of  supply  for  Harshaw  and  Washington 
mining  camps. 

Stages  leave  Pantano  daily  for  Harshaw  50 
miles,  $6 ;  Patagonia  42  miles,  $6 ;  and  Wash- 
ington 51  miles,  $7.50. 

Mescal,  1,015.8  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
keeps  up  the  semblance  of  regular  stations,  at 
proper  distances  from  each  other,  but  why  there 
should  be  a  station,  so  far  as  local  reasons  de- 
mand it,  no  one  can  guess.  As  the  name  implies, 
however,  there  is  a  new  form  of  vegetation  that 
is  important.  The  agave  (or  mescal)  plant.  Its 
growth  is  so  slow  that  it  has  been  called  the  cen- 
tury plant.  It  is  the  American  aloe.  It  has 
long,  regular  leaves  of  grayish-green  color,  termi- 
nating in  a  sharp,  black  needle  almost  as  tough 
as  whalebone.  The  flower-stem,  when  the  plant 
is  ready  to  bloom,  grows  as  rapidly  as  the  plant 
was  slow,  sometimes  a  foot  or  more  a  day,  and 
one  can  almost  see  it  push  upward.  From  the 
main  stem  short  branches  issue,  and  these  bear 
a.small  greenish-yellow  flower.  From  this  plant 
is  obtained  the  liquor,  "  Mescal,"  commonly  used 
by  the  Mexicans,  and  sold  at  about  $3  a  gallon. 
The  long  leaves  are  cut  off,  leaving  a  stump  like 
a  California  beet  in  size,  and  these  stumps  are 
collected  and  roasted  in  a  hole  in  the  ground  or 
rude  oven.  Then  raw  hides  strung  by  the  cor- 
ners are  made  a  receptacle  for  the  roasted 


stumps,  and  in  a  few  days  these  ferment  and 
form  a  dark,  thick,  pulpy  mass  which  is  dis- 
tilled once  or  twice  for  the  Mescal  of  commerce. 
After  the  stumps  have  been  roasted  they  are 
also  eaten  as  food  and  are  said  to  be  quite  pala- 
table. The  ordinary  brown  sugar  (panoche)  of 
the  Mexicans  is  also  obtained  from  this  plant. 
When  the  flower  stalk  is  about  ready  to  appear 
they  cut  away  the  bud  and  scoop  out  the  center, 
and  into  this  is  poured  the  abundant  sap  that 
would  have  shot  forth  the  panicle  of  flowers. 
This  is  evaporated  into  syrup  or  sugar. 

Benson,  a  telegraph  station,  is  1024.4  miles 
from  San  Francisco  and  the  junction  of  the 
Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe  railroad  to  Guy- 
amas,  Mexico,  now  in  process  of  construction. 
The  Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe  road  uses 
the  track  of  the  Southern  Pacific  from  Deming 
to  Benson,  and  thus  forms  a  continuous  line 
from  Kansas  City  to  Guyamas.  The  chief  im- 
portance of  Benson  is  in  this  junction  and  its 
proximity  to  Tombstone,  Bisbee&n&  smaller  min- 
ing districts  to  the  south.  Of  all  these  Tomb- 
stone is  the  most  important — the  most  extensive 
in  the  Territory,  and  a  rival  of  the  Comstock. 
It  is  25  miles  south  of  Benson,  situated  on  roll- 
ing hills,  and  commands  an  extended  and 
beautiful  view  of  the  valley  of  the  San  Pedro 
Kiver  and  the  Dragoon  mountains  on  the  north, 
and  the  Huachucha  (Wali-choo-cha)  mountains 
on  the  south.  It  is  the  most  beautifully  situ- 
ated mining  town  on  the  Pacific  coast,  and  is 
rivaled,  for  situation,  only  by  Leadville  and 
Silverton. 

Silver  was  first  discovered  at  the  old  Bronco 
mine,  six  miles  southeast  of  the  town;  a  mine 
that  has  been  the  subject  of  much  dispute,  and 
the  scene  of  great  violence,  and  at  which  seven- 
teen men  died  with  their  boots  on.  Now,  the 
whole  country  is  located  for  miles  around,  and 
some  of  the  mines  are  of  surpassing  value,  such 
as  the  Contention,  Head  Centre,  Sulphuret, 
Toughnut,  Ingersoll,  Stonewall,  Lucky  Cuss; 
and  others,  like  the  Anchor  and  Prompter, 
present  immense  promises.  The  ore  is  free 
milling.  The  cost  of  raining  has  been  the  most 
serious  drawback,  owing  to  the  scarcity  of 
water.  This  requisite,  even  for  a  beverage  in  a 
hot  mining  town,  was  long  supplied  from  wells 
on  the  stage-road  between  Tombstone  and 
Benson,  two  or  three  miles  from  town.  It  was 
sold  from  the  carts  in  the  streets  at  two  cents  a 
gallon.  This  scarcity  required  all  milling  to- 
be  done  on  the  San  Pedro  Kiver.  The  mills 
were  located  at  Contention  City  and  Charles- 
ton, each  nine  miles  from  Tombstone. 

Contention  City  is  passed  on  the  stage  route 
from  Benson  to  Tombstone.  It  has  a  popula- 
tion of  about  six  hundred,  and  Charleston 
about  a  thousand.  The  years  1881  and  1882 
witness  great  changes  in  the  water  supply  of 


359 


STONE    MONUMENT,     SANTA    EITA    MOUNTAINS, 
SOUTHEASTERN  COLORADO. 

Tombstone.  In  the  Sulphuret  and  other 
mines  an  abundant  flow  was  encountered  and 
utilized;  a  company  brought  water  in  pipes 
from  the  wells  near  town,  and  another  com- 
pany from  Boston  laid  twenty-seven  miles  of 
wrought-iron  pipe,  bringing  water  from  the 
Huachucha  mountains,  and  the  supply  from 
these  sources  is  sufficient  for  the  people,  and 
all  the  mills  needed. 

Tombstone  has  about  7,000  people,  is  regu- 
larly laid  out,  has  two  daily  and  weekly  news- 
papers, hotels,  and  all  the  usual  accompani- 
ments of  a  new  and  first-class  mining  town. 
The  dwellings  are  mostly  small  and  uncom- 
fortable, some  but  little  better  than  tents  or 
huts,  but  the  enjoyment  of  the  comforts  and 
luxuries  of  life  is  rapidly  increasing.  Owing 
to  the  elevation,  nearly  6,000  feet,  the  climate 
is  delightful  much  of  the  time.  Along  the  San 
Pedro  Biver  are  good  ranches  raising  cattle  and 
supplying  provisions  to  the  surrounding  towns. 
They  are  mostly  owned  by  Mormons.  Taran- 
tulas, rattlesnakes,  scorpions,  centipedes, 
horned  toads  and  lizards  abound  in  all  this 
section. 

Benson  has  an  elevation  of  3,578  feet,  Tucson 
2,390  feet,  and  Mescal,  the  summit  west  of  the 
San  Pedro,  is  4,034  feet.  After  leaving  Benson 
the  road  crosses  the  San  Pedro  Kiver,  a  narrow, 


insignificant  stream  when  not  swollen  by 
rains,  and  winds  among  the  hills  toward 
the  summit  on  the  Dragoon  mountains, 
at  a  grade  of  74  feet  to  the  mile,  the 
heaviest  grade  on  the  Southern  Pacifio 
east  of  Yuma. 

After  crossing  the  San  Pedro,  the  blos- 
soming willow  (Lhilopsis  Lttifasu),  with 
a  flower  resembling  that  of  the  honey- 
suckle in  size  and  appearance,  and  a  low 
scrub  oak  will  be  noticed.  From  the  oak, 
the  canon  in  which  the  road  ascends  the 
mountain  is  called  Querc«s.  The  sup- 
position that  it  was  named  from  the 
peculiar  nature  of  the  profanity  in  this 
region  is  a  mistake. 

Ochoa  (O-cho-a),  1034-1  miles,  has  an 
elevation  of  4,102  feet,  and  was  named 
after  a  Spanish  family  prominent  in 
Tucson,  El  Paso  and  Prescott.  Just 
before  reaching  Ochoa  the  road  touches 
the  southern  limit  west  of  Deming  in 
latitude  31  deg.  55  min.  From  this  point 
the  general  course  is  N.  of  E.  to  Dragoon 
Pass  in  the  Dragoon  Mountains. 

Dragoon  Stnnmif,  1,043.5  miles,  is 
4,614  feet  above  the  sea,  and  the  highest 
point  on  the  road  in  Arizona.     It  is  fifty- 
seven   feet  higher  than  the  continental 
divide  between  Lepar  and  Wilna.    Leav- 
ing San  Pedro    Valley    we    now   enter 
Sulphur  Spring  Valley,  and  the  general 
course  is  east  of  north  to  R.  R.  Pass.      The 
valley  is  from  ten  to  twenty  miles  wide  and 
about  one  hundred  long,  with  rich  soil  desti- 
tute of  water,  save  a  meagre  supply  from  small 
springs.     Here  prairie  dogs  are  to  be  seen  as 
at  Sidney,  pages  53  and  54. 

Uachise,  or  Cochise,  1,053.5  miles,  has  an 
elevation  of  4,222  feet.  It  is  called  after  the 
noted  chief  of  the  Chiricahuans,  a  tribe  of  hos- 
tile Apaches.  In  1872,  after  Cochise  had  been 
severely  punished  by  General  Crook,  he  made 
peace  with  General  Howard,  and  died  in  1873. 
In  the  valley  there  is  a  large  alkali  flat,  covered 
at  times  with  the  rain-fall  so  that  it  appears 
like  a  vast  lake.  This  is  the  Play  a  de  los  Pintas, 
and  covers  sixty  square  miles.  It  is  a  laguna, 
dry  lake,  salt  lake,  etc.,  according  to  the  sea- 
son. The  southeastern  portion  of  Arizona  is  ex- 
ceedingly picturesque,  when  the  summer  rains 
have  covered  the  hills  with  grass.  At  times 
the  water  descends  like  torrents,  and  honey- 
combs the  barren  hills  of  gravel  and  sandstone, 
or  leaves  here  and  there  strange  forms  of  archi- 
tectural beauty.  One  can  easily  see  in  the  dis- 
tant mountains  a  beautiful  castle,  with  towers 
and  domes,  arches  and  minarets,  and  over  all  is 
the  charm  of  rich  and  beautiful  tints  peculiar 
to  the  Ar  zona  atmosphere. 

Willcox,  a  telegraph  station,  1,064.3  miles, 


360 


is  named  after  Brevet  Major-General  Willcox, 
U.  S.  A.,  who  has  done  so  much  for  the  peace 
and  development  of  the  Territory.  Here  is  an 
eating-house  where  dinners  are  served  to  both 
east  and  west  bound  trains;  and,  considering 
the  desert  place,  they  are  good  meals,  too.  It 
is  the  distributing  point  for  Camp  Grant,  Camp 
Safford  and  Camp  Thomas  on  the  north,  and  is 
distant  from  Globe  City  (on  the  northwest) 
eighty -five  miles.  The  White  Mountain  Indian 
Reservation  (San  Carlos  Agency)  is  on  the 
north  about  the  same  distance  from  this  point 
or  from  Casa  Grande. 

Railroad  Pass,  1,072.6  miles,  is  in  the 
Dos  Cabesas  range  of  the  Chiricahua  Moun- 
tains, on  the  east  side  of  the  Sulphur  Springs 
Valley  and  the  west  side  of  San  Simon  Valley. 
"Dos  Cabesas"  means  "two  heads."  They 
are  easily  recognized — bald,  monstrous  peaks, 
visible  in  all  the  southeastern  part  of  the  Ter- 
ritory, and  noted  landmarks  for  every  traveler. 
A  short  distance  to  the  south  is  the  well-known 
Apache  Pass.  The  elevation  of  the  Railroad 
Pass  is  4, 394 feet,  about  one  hundred  feet  lower 
than  the  continental  divide.  The  western  slope 
of  the  range  is  overcome  with  a  maximum 
grade  of  sixty-three  feet,  but  on  the  eastern 
slope  the  maximum  grade  is  again  seventy-four 
feet.  The  general  course  from  Dragoon  Pass 
was  east  of  north,  and  now  it  changes,  from 
this  to  Stein's  Pass,  to  south  of  east. 

Bowie,  1,088  miles,  is  named  for  the  United 
States  military  camp  of  the  same  name,  about 
twelve  miles  south  of  the  station.  It  was 
established  in  1863,  and  its  position  in  the 
Apache  Pass  made  it  one  of  the  most  important 
posts  in  the  Territory,  for  it  was  long  sur- 
rounded by  fierce  and  hostile  warriors. 

Snn  Siinoit,  1,103.7  miles,  a  day  telegraph 
station,  is  in  a  valley  of  the  same  name,  extend- 
ing from  Railroad  Pass  on  the  west  to  Stein's 
Pass  on  the  east.  It  is  in  Arizona,  but  Stein's 
Pass  is  in  New  Mexico.  Before  crossing  the 
boundary  line  it  may  be  well  to  take  a  general 
survey. 

Arizona  extends  from  31  deg.  20  min.  north 
latitude  to  37  deg.  north,  and  from  32  deg. 
longitude  west  from  Washington  to  37  deg.  40 
min.  west.  Its  area  is  122,000  square  miles. 
Its  population  in  1830  Avas  40,441.  Its  princi- 
pal towns  are  Prescott  (the  capital),  2,000  in- 
habitants, Tucson,  8,000,  Tombstone,  3,000, 
Yuma,  1,000,  and  Phoenix,  2,000.  It  was 
acquired  by  treaty  with  Mexico  in  1848,  and 
treaty  and  (Gadesden)  purchase  in  1854,  and 
was  part  of  Now  Mexico  until  1863.  When  it 
was  named  no  one  can  tell.  Many  theories 
are  advanced  concerning  it.  In  the  Mohave 
language  "ari"  means  sun,  holy,  good  or  beau- 
tiful ;  "urania"  means  maiden.  So  we  have 
the  land  of  the  holy  or  beautiful  maiden,  and 


this  is  befitting  the  clear  sky  and  people  of 
the  once  extensive  cities.  In  the  same  lan- 
guage "zona"  is  our  "zone,"  and  from  this  and 
"ari"  we  have  the  land  of  the  beautiful  zone. 
Where  the  S.  P.  E.  R.  crosses  it,  it  is  generally 
uninviting  and  desolate,  with  large,  low  pla 
teaus  almost  destitute  of  vegetable  and  animal 
life.  In  the  northern  and  northeastern  por- 
tions the  plateaus  are  higher,  ranging  from 
7,000  to  7,500  feet  above  the  sea,  and  there  the 
verdure  of  both  mountain  and  valley  is  beau- 
tiful, and  timber  and  birds  are  abundant.  In 
minerals  it  probably  surpasses  any  State  or 
Territory  of  the  Union.  The  mining  camps 
are  now  too  numerous  to  mention,  are  being 
constantly  enlarged,  and  new  ones  established. 
At  every  station  one  may  expect  prospectors, 
with  pockets  full  of  rocks,  ready  to  sell  one  or 
a  dozen  rich  mines.  Gold,  silver,  copper,  lead, 
quicksilver,  tin,  nickel,  cinnabar,  iron,  bitu- 
minous coal,  salt,  sulphur,  gypsum,  are  all 
mined,  and  there  are  found  also  opals,  garnets, 
red,  white  and  yellow  azurite,  malachite,  chal- 
cedony, sapphires,  and,  some  say,  diamonds. 
The  coal  fields,  in  the  northeastern  part  of  the 
Territory,  are  75,000  square  miles  in  extent. 

Soil  and  Vegetation.— ^NLvtch.  of  the  Territory 
is  barren  and  lava-covered — especially  the  sides 
of  the  isolated  peaks,  and  the  mesas,  or  high 
table-lands.  Aside  from  these,  the  soil  is  fer- 
tile, and  yields  abundantly  where  irrigation  is 
possible.  In  the  summer,  when  the  rains 
fall,  the  plains  and  even  mountain-sides  are 
covered  with  a  luxurious  growth  of  nutritious 
grasses.  This  is  especially  to  be  noticed  in 
the  Sulphur  Springs  Valley. 

Climate. — Near  the  snow-capped  mountains 
of  the  north  the  air  is  dry  and  pure,  and  some- 
times cold.  Frosts  seldom  occur.  Southern 
Arizona  is  delightful — the  perfection  of  cli- 
mate in  winter,  but  excessively  hot  in  summer, 
except  in  the  elevated  regions.  For  consump- 
tives it  is  better  than  Florida,  because  it  is 
warm  and  also  dry.  There  are  two  rainy  sea- 
sons—  July  and  August,  and  February  and 
March.  Some  years  a  rainy  season  will  cover 
four  months,  and  occasionally  rain  falls  every 
month.  From  thirty  inches  per  annum  in  the 
mountains  it  decreases  in  the  valleys  and 
southward,  and  with  different  seasons  "till  we 
reach  Yurna,  which  has  from  five  inches  to  less 
than  one  inch.  Thunderstorms  of  the  grandest 
kind  are  frequent,  and  the  rain  is  like  cloud- 
bursts— of  limited  area,  but  terrific  in  quantity. 
Because  rain  occurs  in  July  and  August  and 
the  country  is  green  when  the  alkali  desert  in 
Nevada  is  stifling  with  dust,  the  Southern 
route  is  preferable  then,  as  in  winter,  to  the 
Union  Pacific.  The  rain  modifies  the  heat  so 
that  it  does  not  become  oppressive.  The 
writer  has  crossed  the  continent  repeatedly, 


361 


but  never  with  more  comfort  than  on  this 
route  in  August.  The  hottest  point  touched 
on  this  road  is  Yuma. 

The  Indians  at  Yuma  are  the  Yumas  re- 
duced to  about  600.  They  cultivate  wheat, 
corn,  melons,  etc.,  along  the  Gila  River,  and 
are  peaceable  and  friendly  to  the  whites.  They 
speak  the  Mohave  language,  and  are  at  but 
little  expense  for  clothing.  A  breech-clout,  with 
a  streamer  behind,  is  the  whole  covering  of  a 
warrior.  The  Maricop*s  and  Ptmas  live  to- 
gether on  the  Gila  River  Reservation,  and 
number  about  4,000.  In  1876  they  sold  nearly 
2,000,000  Ibs.  of  wheat,  and  are  successful  in 
agriculture.  Near  Tucson  tare  the  P.ipagnes, 
6,000,  with  ranches  along  the  Santa  Cruz  near 
the  Mission  of  San  Xavier  Del  Bac. 

North  of  Willcox  is  the  San  Carlos  agency 
with  the  Coy-o-tfr  os,  Pi-nals,  Ar-a-vi-pas, 
Ton-frs,  Apache  Yumas,  Apache  Mokaves  and 
the  Chir-i-ca-ku-ans  including  the  Co-chise, 
All  these  are  about  4,500. 

There  are,  besides  these,  the  well-known 
Maquis  and  Zunis,  in  the  northeast  part  of  the 
Territory,  and  other  groups  scattered  here  and 
there,  but  the  above  will  enable  the  tourist  to 
locate  these  scenes  along  the  road  and  observe 
some  of  their  different  characteristics.  The 
mud  hair-dressing,  so  often  seen,  is  generally 
supposed  to  be  for  killing  vermin;  but  it  is 
mixed  with  the  juice  of  the  bulbous  root  of  the 
amole,  a  cactus  similar  in  leaf  to  the  mescal  or 
agave,  and  used  to  make  the  hair  soft  and 
glossy.  The  root  is  often  used  for  washing  in- 
stead of  soap. 

Arizona  does  not  appear  to  be  a  paradise  for 
the  sportsman,  but  appearances  are  deceiving. 
Back  from  the  railroad,  in  the  mountains, 
game  is  most  plentiful.  Elk,  deer,  antelope, 
mountain  sheep,  pumas,  wildcats,  foxes,  wolves, 
peccaries,  opossums,  and  cinnamon,  brown, 
black  and  grizzly  bears  are  tempting  to  the 
rifleman.  Of  smaller  game  there  are  wild 
ducks,  geese  and  pigeons,  sand-hill  cranes, 
grouse,  quail  and  turkeys.  The  last  two  are 
especially  abundant,  and  a  single  turkey  often 
weighs  forty  pounds  or  more, 

Stein's  Pass  —Here  we  are  in  New  Mexico, 
1118.4  miles  from  San  Francisco.  It  is  the  first 
station  we  reach  in  this  Territory  as  we  go  east. 
The  elevation  of  the  summit  is  4,352.8  feet,  and 
the  station  is  only  about  two  feet  lower. 

Having  crossed  the  boundary  line  the  name 
of  the  railroad  has  also  changed.  It  is  now  the 
Southern  Pacific  Railroad  rf  Nfw  Mexico, 
leased,  temporarily,  to  the  Central  Pacific. 


NEW  MEXICO. 

This  territory  extends  from  latitude  31  deg. 
20  min.  to  37  deg.  north,  and  longitude  west 


from  Washington  26  deg.  2  min.  to  32  deg.  2 
min.  west.  The  area  is  121,200  square  miles, 
only  a  few  hundred  less  than  Arizona.  It  forms 
part  of  the  lofty  table-land  which  is  the  founda- 
tion of  the  Rocky  Mountains — the  back-bone 
of  the  continent.  This  table-hind  slopes  south- 
ward from  Colorado,  and  in  the  southern  por- 
tion is  the  Llano  Estacado,  or  Staked  Plain, 
nearly  200  miles  long  and  150  wide,  almost 
level,  and  destitute  of  water. 

It  is  covered  with  rich,  nutritious  grasses, 
and  capable  of  yielding  large  crops  if  water  can 
be  obtained.  The  mesquit  tree  is  here  stunted 
to  a  mere  shrub,  and  numerous  herds  of  ante- 
lope and  deer  are  roaming  about.  The  plateaus 
of  the  Territory  are  also  covered  with  gramma 
and  bunch  grasses  and  sustain  immense  herds 
of  cattle  and  sheep,  with  great  profit  to  their 
owners.  Cattle  take  a  wide  range  from  the 
watering  places,  returning  for  water  only  once 
in  two  or  three  days.  The  valleys,  where  capa- 
ble of  irrigation,  are  wonderfully  fertile.  In  the 
extreme  southwest  is  the  Messilla  (Mes-see-yah), 
producing  oranges,  figs,  pomegranates  and  all 
semi-tropical  fruits.  The  Pecos  extends  south 
from  the  Santa  Fe  Mountains  throughout  the 
whole  territory,  and  has  the  richest  soil,  but 
the  Rio  Grande  is  the  largest  and  most  impor- 
tant in  the  Territory.  The  latter  extends 
south  from  Colorado,  and  lies  between  the  two 
ranges  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  eastern 
range  ends  near  Santa  Fe,  and  the  western  con- 
tinues south,  a3  the  Sierra  Madre,  into  Arizona 
and  Mexico. 

New  Mexico  was  acquired  like  Arizona,  and 
included,  at  first,  both  Arizona  and  part  of 
Colorado.  It  is  rich  in  these  agricultural  val- 
leys mentioned,  in  its  pastures,  lands  and  won- 
derful mines.  We  will  yet  see  the  prophecy  of 
Baron  Von  Humboldt  fulfilled,  when  he  said, 
"The  wealth  of  the  world  will  be  found  in 
New  Mexico  and  Arizona. "  Gold,  silver,  cop- 
per, iron,  salt,  mica,  marble,  lead  and  coal  are 
abundant,  and  one  of  the  best  turquoise  mines 
in  the  world  is  within  her  borders,  in  the 
Cerrillo  Mountains.  The  Spaniards  covered 
twenty  acres  with  its  wastes. 

Indians.—  Of  these  there  are  about  20,000 — 
the  Utes,  Apaches  and  Navajoes  numbering 
about  13,000,  the  Pueblos  7,000.  The  Pueblos 
are  quiet,  comparatively  industrious  and  harm- 
less. The  Apaches  and  Utes  are  the  most  hos- 
tile and  thievish,  and  the  Navajoes  the  most 
friendly,  excepting  the  Pueblos. 

The  gam*,  anim  its  are  similar  to  those  of 
Arizona,  but  are  generally  to  be  found  nearer 
the  line  of  the  railroad,  especially  in  the  Raten 
arid  Santa  Fe  mountains. 

Between  the  San  Pedro  River  and  Burro 
mountains,  numerous  forms  of  the  cacti  are 
seen,  especially  opuntias  and  echino-cacti.  The 


362 


Spanish  bayonet,  yucca  gloriosa  (page  320)  is 
also  abundant.  The  ubiquitous  grease-wood 
(obione),  and  dwarf  mesquit  are  also  kept  in 
sight. 

In  the  mountains  there  are  the  grizzly  and 
black  bears  (ursusfirox  and  Ameticanus),  black 
tailed  deer  (cerous  maeroti^],  antelopes  (antelo 
capra  Americano},  a  large  rabbit  (lepuscallotis), 
and  a  small  rabbit  (lepus  attemesia). 

Pyramid — 1133.5  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
is  named  from  the  Pyramid  range  of  moun- 
tains, running  south.  Lee's  Peak  is  quite 
prominent  in  this  range.  Between  Stein's 
Pass  and  this  station  is  an  alkali  flat,  sometimes 
covered  with  water. 

Lordsburgh,  a  clay  telegraph  station,  1137.9 
miles,  is  one  and  a  half  miles  from  Shakes- 
peare, a  small  mining  town. 

Silver  City,  New  Mexico,  north  of  this 
station,  is  reached  by  stage  either  from  this 
point  or  from  Deming.  It  is  the  county  seat 
of  Grant  County,  a  rich  mining  region.  It 
claims  to  have  more  gold  and  silver  in  .y^A/than 
any  other  county  under  the  American  flag. 
There  are  many  mining  camps  in  the  county, 
but  these  two,  Shakespeare  and  Silver  City,  are 
the  largest.  Oxides  of  copper  and  iron,  and 
carbonate  of  silver  are  the  principal  ores,  but 
sulphurets  and  chlorides,  horn  and  native  sil- 
ver are  also  found. 

Lisbon — 1148.6  miles;  Separ — 1157.6  miles; 
Wilna — 1169.2  miles;  Gage — 1178  miles,  and 
Tunis — 1189.1  miles,  are  mere  side  tracks. 

Burro  Mountain  is  on  the  north  side  of  the 
road,  between  Lordsburgh  and  Separ,  and  just 
east  of  Separ,  at  the  crossing  of  a  little  stream 
or  water  channel,  the  road  turns  more  to  the 
north,  and  soon  passes  over  the  continental 
divide.  Separ  has  an  elevation  of  4,503  feet, 
and  Wilna  4,557. 

On  the  south  of  the  road,  and  west  of  Gage, 
is  the  Tenaja  Butte,  and  on  the  north  of  the 
road  the  Vie  jo  Butte. 

Deming— 1197.5  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
and  1149  from  Kansas  City,  is  the  junction  of 
the  S.  P.  and  the  A.  T.  &  S.  F.  railroads.  Pas- 
sengers here  change  from  the  sleeping-cars  of 
the  Central  Pacific  to  those  of  the  Pullman 
Company.  Deming  corresponds  to  Ogden,  on 
the  Union  and  Central  Pacific  route .  One  hour 
is  allowed  for  the  transfer  of  baggage  and 
meals.  The  depot  and  hotel  are  owned  jointly 
by  the  two  roads,  and  are  spacious  and  elegant 
for  the  purposes  for  which  they  are  intended. 
The  elevation  is  4,334  feet. 

Passengers  for  New  Orleans  or  for  St.  Louis, 
via.  THE  TKEPLE  LINE,  the  third  great  trans- 
continental railway,  also  change  cars  here,  but 
proceed  over  the  Southern  Pacific  through  El 
Paso,  and  over  the  Texas  Pacific  to  Fort 
Worth  and  tbenca  eap+, 


LOCATING  THE  UNE,   ANIMAS  CANON,  ON  DENVEB 
AND  BIO  GEANDE  .RAILWAY,  COLORADO. 

The  eating  house  and  hotel  at  Deming  are 
under  the  charge  of  the  well-known  caterer, 
Fred.  Harvey.  He  has  leased  all  the  eating- 
houses  on  the  line  of  the  A.  T.  &  S.  F.  road, 
and.  thoroughly  understands  how  to  gratify  the 
appetite  of  the  most  fastidious  traveler.  The 
price  for  meals  is  a  dollar  each.  They  are 
always  good,  but  differ  of  necessity,  according 
to  the  locality  of  the  station.  Chickens  and 
grouse  do  not  thrive  in  the  sage-brush  and 
grease-wood  of  the  plains,  or  the  cacti  of  the 
desert. 

Deming  is  situated  in  the  valley  of  the  Bio 
Membres  (Meem-bress)  or  Lost  River,  in  an 
uninviting  region.  As  you  approach  it  from 
the  west,  fertility  disappears,  the  grass  on  the 
mesa  is  thinned  out,  and  the  striking  forms  of 
vegetation  are  a  cactus  (fonguieria  splenden), 
the  Spanish  bayonet  and  creasote  bush  (Larrea 
Mextca*a).  See  pages  293  and  294. 

The  Bio  Membres  is  a  dry  channel  most  of 
the  year,  the  river  which  flows  steadily  amid 
cottonwood  trees  in  the  upper  part  of  the 


363 


valley,  having  disappeared  in  the  sands.  There 
are  sand*dunes  around  the  station,  and  stretch- 
ing away  off  toward  the  Rio  Grande  River.  Near 
by  the  Picacho  de  los  Numbres  rears  its  head 
2,500  feet  above  the  plain.  It  is  ten  miles  long, 
and  being  isolated  from  other  ranges,  forms  a 
noted  landmark.  From  it  the  Organ  moun- 
tains, near  El  Paso,  are  distinctly  visible. 

The  Messilla  {Mess  sec-yah]  Valley  is  south 
of  East  on  the  way  to  El  Paso. 

After  Supper  at  Deming,  the  start  Eastward  is 
made,  the  course  to  Rincon  being  Northeast. 
The  country  passed  over  is  mostly  barren  until 
the  valley  of  the  Rio  Grande  is  reached. 

Rincon,  on  the  river,  1250.1  miles  from  San 
Francisco,  is  the  junction  of  a  branch  to  El 
Paso,  connecting  there  with  the  Mexican  Cen- 
tral Railroad. 

From  Rincan,  the  general  course  is  almost 
due  north  to  Lamy,  through  the  valley  of  the 
Rio  Grande.  This  valley,  about  400  miles 
long,  averaging  (for  cultivation)  three  miles  in 
width,  is  the  finest  portion  01  the  Territory. 
With  irrigation  the  fertility  is  inexhaustible. 
Gravelly  wastes  covered  with  creosote  bushes 
(Larrea  M.),  sage  brush  (atttmesia],  and 
grease-wood  (rbf)ine),  and  representatives  of 
the  cacti  may  be  transformed  into  fruitful 
vineyards  and  beautiful  gardens.  The  valley 
is  enriched  as  bountifully  as  was  Egypt  by  the 
Nile,  but  not  so  regularly,  for  here  the  clouds 
may  burst  in  the  rainy  season  almost  without 
warning.  Lime,  sand  and  marl  are  eroded 
from  the  adjacent  hills  and  left  to  bless  the 
labors  of  the  husbandman.  Wheat,  corn, 
beans  and  alfalfa  are  common  and  profitable 
crops,  and  orchards  of  peaches,  plums,  pears, 
apricots  are  heavily  laden.  Grapes  are  abund- 
ant, and  the  wine  celebrated  for  its  rich  flavor. 

One  advantage  of  this  route  is  the  striking 
illustrations  of  the  progress  of  civilization  it 
affords.  We  see  the  miner  carrying  the  com- 
forts and  luxuries  of  life  to  the  scorched,  sandy 
wastes  of  Arizona.  We  see  wheat  fields  un- 
broken for  hundreds  of  miles  in  the  San 
Joaquin.  Valley,  and  the  enormous  crops  sowed 
and  harvested  with  all  the  labor-saving  devices 
that  modern  art  can  furnish.  The  "header" 
starts  upon  its  course,  and  immediately  the 
steam  thresher  is  heard,  and  night  closes  upon 
3,000  sacks  of  winnowed  grain,  the  result  of  a 
day's  labor.  Soon  after,  in  the  valley  of  the 
Rio  Grande,  we  find  the  Mexican  and  Indian 
harvesting  with  all  the  simplicity  of  oriental 
times.  The  wheat  is  cut  with  a  sickle  and  car- 
ried unbound  to  a  level  floor  of  hard  ground 
from  50  to  200  feet  in  diameter,  according  to 
the  size  of  the  farm.  The  grain  is  there  trod- 
den out  by  a  flock  of  goats  or  sheep,  and  some- 
times by  burros  or  ponies  eating  while  they 
slowly  tramp,  as  if  they  seldom  feasted  so  well 


and  were  likely  to  leave  but  little  for  their 
master.  It  is  a  sin  to  muzzle  the  ox  that 
treads  the  grain.  Then  the  winnowing  is  on 
the  plan  of  the  Hebrews,  tossing  the  grain  in 
the  air  when  a  stiff  breeze  blows.  Even  wooden 
plows  are  used — crooked  sticks,  each  with  an 
iron  point  fastened  with  raw-hide  thongs. 
Carts  also  contrast  ludicrously  with  the  car- 
riages run  on  steel  rails.  They  are  wholly  of 
wood  and  raw-hide.  The  body  is  of  poles 
rudely  fastened  together,  and  the  wheels  are 
made  of  boards,  with  a  clumsy  wooden  hub 
and  a  tire  of  raw-hide. 

The  general  altitude  of  the  valley  ranges 
from  about  7,700  feet  above  the  sea  to  5,026  at 
Albequrque. 

San  Marcial  and  Socorro  are  passed  at 
night,  both  old  towns,  now  inhabited  largely 
by  Mexicans.  Socorro  was  so  named  by  the 
Spaniards  in  1580,  because  of  the  succor  it 
gave  their  half-starved  expedition.  West  of 
Socorro  are  the  Magdalena  Mountains,  rich  and 
extensive  in  silver  mines.  Hematite,  iron-ore, 
limestone  and  clay  also  abound.  Beside  these 
Socorro  is  a  centre  for  galena,  manganese,  anti- 
mony, arsenic,  cobalt,  zinc  and  magnetic  iron- 
ore. 

Albuquerque-  is  155.4  miles  from  Deming, 
and  one  of  the  typical  Mexican  towns. 
Although  the  cultivated  part  of  the  valley  is 
not  many  miles  wide,  the  valley  itself  at  this 
point  is  170  miles  in  width. 

It  has  about  4,000  people,  and  is  a  town  of 
railroad  bustle,  being  the  eastern  terminus  of 
the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Railroad,  now  in  pro- 
cess of  construction  to  unite  with  the  Southern 
Pacific  at  the  Colorado  River.  It  will  cross  the 
Grand  Canon  of  this  river,  1,600  feet  above  the 
water,  on  a  bridge  with  a  single  span  of  400 
feet,  and  opens  up  to  the  miner  and  the  tourist 
a  vast  region,  with  some  of  the  grandest 
scenery  on  the  continent. 

It  passes  also  through  the  country  of  the 
Zuni  Indians,  their  chief  city,  Zuni,  being  per- 
haps the  best  preserved  and  most  interesting 
of  all  the  community -houses  or  pueblos  in  the 
land. 

Laniy,  the  junction  of  the  Sante  Fe  branch, 
with  its  eating-houses,  is  reached  for  a  late 
breakfast,  according  to  the  time  table,  but  the 
trains  are  run  on  Jefferson  City  time.  It  is 
298  miles  from  Deming,  and  eighteen  from 
Santa  Fe.  It  is  named  in  honor  of  Archbishop 
Lamy,  who  has  done  much  for  the  progress  of 
the  Territory.  The  tourist  should  by  all  means 
turn  aside  to  visit 

Santa  Fe,  the  capital  and  metropolis  of  the 
Territory.  No  point  between  San  Francisco 
and  the  Missouri  River  has  so  much  history 
centering  about  it,  and  none  is  of  more  archae- 
ological interest.  Its  settlement  runs  back  into 


364 


the  forgotten  past.  With  Tuscon,  Arizona, 
and  St.  Augustine,  Florida,  as  rivals,  it  claims 
the  earliest  origin  as  a  town  on  the  continent. 
In  1542,  some  say,  the  Spaniards  took  posses- 
sion of  it.  Alva  Nunez  Caleza  de  Vaca,  ship- 
wrecked off  Texas  in  1530,  may  have  passed 
this  way  to  Mexico.  His  story,  however,  led 
to  an  expedition  in  1537  under  Marcus  di  Niza, 
a  Franciscan  friar,  who  was  frightened  oIT  by 
the  Indians,  but  was  followed  by  the  famous 
expedition  of  Coronado  in  1539  to  1542.  Albe 
Dominion  mentions  Spanish  provinces  in  1542, 
and  one  of  these  is  supposed  to  have  been 
Santa  Fe.  Coronado  was  in  search  of  the 
seven  cities  of  Cibola.  He  found  a  city  called 
Cicuye,  a  strongly  fortified  city,  having  houses 
four  stories  high,  built  in  a  narrow  valley  in 
the  midst  of  mountains  covered  with  pines, 
traversed  by  a  stream  in  which  he  caught  some 
excellent  trout.  Some  supposed  this  city  to 
be  Santa  Fe,  but  the  researches  among  the 
pueblos,  made  by  Col.  Stevenson  and  others, 
lead  them  to  conclude  that  Cicuye  was  not  on 
the  site  of  Santa  Fe,  the  City  of  the  Holy 
Faith. 

In  1600  it  had  a  Spanish  governor,  Pedro  de 
Pjralto,  and  1680  the  Spaniards  were  driven 
out  of  the  city.  They  recaptured  it  in  1694. 
The  traditions  of  the  Pueblo  Indians  make  the 
city  1,000  years  old.  It  is  built  on  the  site  of 
an  old  and  large  pueblo.  On  the  left  of  the 
river  the  old  foundations  of  small  stones  laid  in 
xulobe  are  easy  to  find. 

The  oldest  church  is  that  of  San  Miguel, 
erected  probably  in  1640,  and  rebuilt  in  1710. 
Ib  has  some  old  paintings  of  interest,  though 
not  remarkable  in  execution.  The  one  of  ' '  The 
Annunciation,"  is  dated  on  the  back  1287,  but 
the  date  is  probably  spurious. 

Besides  this  ancient  church,  the  most  inter- 
esting buildings  are  the  Governor's  palace, 
where  the  business  was  transacted  from  time 
immemorial,  and  which  has,  therefore,  an  inter- 
esting history,  the  churches,  the  ruins  oi'  old 
Fort  Marcy,  the  plaza,  the  Palace  Hotel,  the 
military  headquarters  of  New  Mexico,  and  the 
gardens  of  Archbishop  Lamy. 

In  the  Bishops  gardens  are  delicious  fruits, 
including  peaches,  pears,  figs,  oranges  and 
lemons,  and  the  choicest  flowers. 

The  Indians,  especially  the  Navajoes,  make 
excellent  blankets,  twisting  the  yarn  and  weav- 
ing them  entirely  by  hand.  The  finest  of  them 
will  hold  water  and  sell  for  about  seventy-five 
dollars  each. 

The  pottery  is  another  object  of  curiosity, 
but  it  is  probably  less  artistic  than  it  was  in  the 
days  of  the  Aztecs.  The  modern  pottery  is 
kept  for  sale  in  the  town. 

Mexican  filagree  jewelry  is  another  curious 
object  of  interest.  It  is  made  of  pure  gold  or 


silver,  because  none  other  can  be  wro\|ght  into 
such  wire  as  the  manufacturing  requires.  The 
wire  thread  is  twisted  and  rolled,  and  then 
wound  on  pins  set  in  a  frame  of  wire  until,  at 
the  pleasure  of  the  skilled  workman,  any  de- 
sired figure  is  produced.  Feathers,  figures  of 
men  and  animals,  all  are  produced,  and  some- 
times studded  with  gems. 

In  1861  the  city  was  captured  by  the  rebels 
under  Gen.  Sibley,  and  occupied  for  a  few  days, 
when  they  were  obliged  to  flee  in  consequence 
of  defeat  at  Pigeon  Ranch  and  Apache  Canon. 

It  has  now  about  8,000  inhabitants,  and  is 
supplied  with  water  and  gas.  .  It  has  a  delight- 
ful climate,  exceedingly  favorable  for  pulmo- 
nary disease  and  asthma.  The  mean  tempera- 
ture for  six  years — 1874  to  1880 — was:  Spring, 
49.7  deg.;  Summer,  70.4  deg. ;  Autumn,  50.6 
deg. ;  Winter,  31.6  deg.  Total,  50. 6  deg.  For 
catarrh,  rheumatism  and  neuralgia  the  climate 
is  not  favorable.  In  the  winter  snow  falls  at 
times,  and  there  are  usually  three  or  four  snows 
from  six  to  twelve  inches  deep.  The  summer 
rains  fall  in  July  and  August,  and  "when  it 
rains  it  pours. " 

The  plains  and  mesas  are  covered  with 
gramma  and  other  rioh  nutritious  grasses. 
Along  the  streams  are  found  cottonwood,  wal- 
nut, maple  and  mesquit  trees,  and  on  the 
mountains  there  are  nut-bearing  pines  (fiinus 
e lulus}.  The  mesquit  is  little  more  than  a 
shrub  in  many  places,  but  with  tremendous 
roots,  making  from  a  simple  bush  half  a  cord 
of  fire-wood,  transported  to  market  on  burros 
driven  or  led  by  Mexicans  or  Indians.  This 
has  been  the  main  dependence  of  the  city  for 
fire-wood,  and  for  the  purpose  it  is  excellent. 
Besides  being  hard,  it  burns  witli  an  aromatic 
odor.  The  surrounding  mountains  are  full  of 
minerals,  gold,  silver,  oynx,  agates,  garnets  and 
opals. 

From  Santa  Fe  one  may  cross  over,  by  stage, 
twenty-seven  miles  to  Espanola  on  the  Bio 
Grande,  the  southern  terminus  of  the  Denver 
and  Rio  Grande  Railway  and  reach  the  famous 
Ojo  Caliente  Springs,  or  the  sublime,  majestic 
and  awful  scenery  of  the  Embudo  Canon, 
Tottec  Gorge  and  Veta  Pass,  and  proceed  either 
to  the  San  Juan  country  via  the  wild  Animas 
Canon,  or  through  the  Grand  Canon  of  the 
Arkansas  to  Gunnison  or  Lsadville,  or  via 
Pueblo  to  Maniton  and  Denver. 

Leaving  L  miy  Junction,  a  run  of  sixty-five 
miles  through  beautiful  valleys  and  amid  lofty 
mountains,  brings  one  to  L'is  Vc^as  for  dinner. 

Tcocalli  Mountain,  Col.— A.  peak  of  the 
Elk  range  13,113  feet  above  sea-level.  The 
strata  ai*3  nearly  horizontal  and  so  broken  as  to 
form  a  series  of  steps  from  the  base  to  the 
summit,  and  is  named  from  its  resemblance  tc 
the  Teocalli  "  House  of  God,"  of  the  Aztecs. 


365 


Bancroft  Library 


386 


Bet-ween  Santa  Fe  and  Las  "Vegas,  in  the 
tipper  part  of  the  valley  of  the  Rio  Pecos, 
which  the  railroad  crosses,  and  about  a  mile 
and  a  quarter  south  of  the  station,  are  the  Pecos 
ruins.  The  old  church  and  pueblo  will  repay 
the  time  and  labor  of  a  visit.  The  houses  were 
four  stories  high,  without  opening  on  the 
ground  floor  and  scaled  by  ladders. 

The  railroad  follows  closely  the  old  Santa  Fe 
trail,  which  for  a  long  time  was  the  only  line  of 
travel  from  the  Missouri  River  to  the  west  and 
southwest.  The  course  is  southeast  for  a  time, 
in  order  to  get  around  the  southern  end  of  the 
Santa  Fe  mountain. 


shown  by  the  following  chemical  analysis,  made 
by  Prof/F.  V.  Hayden,  United  States  geologist: 


SPKING  No.  1. 
172 

1.08 


CONSTITUEKTS . 

Sodium  carbonate . . . 
Calcium  carbonate  I 
Magnesium  "  ) 

Sodium  sulphate 14.12 

Sodium  chloride 27.26 

Potassium Trace 

Lithium Strong  trace 

Silicic  acid  1.04 

Iodine . . , Trace 

Bromine Trace 

Temperature 130°F. 


No.  2. 
1.17 

10.63 

15.43 

24.37 

Trace 

Sir.  trace 

Trace 

Trace 

Trace 

123°F. 


No.  3. 
5.00 

11.43 

16.21 

27.34 

Trace 

Str.  tract 

2.51 

Trace 

Tra^e 

123°F. 


The  improvements  are  complete  and  mag- 
nificent— everything  in  keeping  with  the  charm 
ing  scenery  and  delightful  climate.  The 


,0^ 


Las  Vegnst  like  Santa  Fe,  should  not  be 
passed  hastily.  Five  miles  from  the  station  are 
the  noted  and  ancient  springs  to  which  Indians 
long  resorted  with  their  maladies,  and  for  the 
improvement  of  which  a  Boston  Company  have 
wisely  expended  more  than  $100,000.  The  bath 
house  is  200  feet  long  and  42  feet  wide.  The 
springs  are  twenty-two  in  number,  and  vary  in 
temperature  from  110  deg.  to  140  deg.  All  are 
on  the  banks  of  the  cold  Gallinas  Kiver,  a 
tributary  of  the  Pecos. 

7  he  character  of  the  waters  is  similar  to  that 
of  the  famous  Hot  Springs  of  Arkansas,  as 


elevation  of  Las  Vegas  (6, 400  feet)  and  Colorado 
Springs  is  about  the  same,  but  Las  Vegas  being 
on  the  great  elevated  plateau,  with  its  slope  to 
the  sunny  south,  is  much  drier  and  more  favor- 
able for  pulmonary  disease.  It  has  long  been 
considered  the  great  sanitorium  of  the  country. 

Las  Vegas  town  has  a  population  of  about 
2,000,  and  is  situated  in  one  corner  of  the  San 
Carlos  mining  district.  It  is  the  county  town 
of  Miguel  county. 

From  Las  Vegas  the  general  course  is  north- 
east, and  then  north  to  and  across  the  Raton 
mountains,  ascending  to  the  Raton  Pass  along 
Willow  Creek  to  a  tunnel  of  2,000  feet,  and 
emerging  to  follow  Raton  Creek,  crossing  the 
Pargaterie  River  and  continuing  northeast  to 
the  Arkansas. 

The  Raton  mountains  afford  some  of  the 
finest  scenery  on  the  line  of  the  road,  and  here 
are  some  of  the  greatest  triumphs  of  engineer- 
ing. Before  the  tunnel  was  completed  the  cars 
ascended  the  mountain  on  a  "switch-back," 
*.  t. ,  after  climbing  as  far  as  possible  the  train 
would  be  backed  as  on  a  "  Y,"  there  being  no 
room  for  curves,  and  so  it  would  zig-zag  up  the 
mountain  on  a  grade  of  317  feet  to  the  mile. 


367 


Tliis  pass  was  the  memorable  battle-ground  of 
the  railroad  war  between,  the  Denver  and  Bio 
Grande  Railway  and  the  Atchison,  Topeka  and 
Santa  Fe  companies — each  one  claiming  the 
right  to  the  pass  to  the  exclusion  of  the  other. 
Eight  miles  north  of  Raton  station,  where  pas- 
senger trains  stop  for  breakfast  and  supper,  the 
line  is  crossed  between  New  Mexico  and  Colo- 
rado, 667  miles  from  Kansas  City.  After  pass- 
ing through  the  Baton  tunnel  we  are  on  the 
water-shed  drained  by  the  Missouri  Biver  and 
its  tributaries,  and  reach  Trinidad  in  about  an 
hour  and  a  half.  It  is  a  compact  city  of  coal 
mines,  fire-clay,  stone  quarries,  coke-ovens  and 
cattle  trade.  It  is  only  five  miles  from  Fl  Mo*  o, 
the  southern  terminus  of  a  branch  of  the 
D.  &  B.  G.  Bailway,  and  is  connected  with  it 
by  stage.  El  Moro  is  almost  directly  south  of 
Denver,  and  like  Trinidad  is  noted  for  its  coal 
and  coke  ovens. 

The  Arkansas  Biver  is  reached  at  L  i  "Junta, 
and  followed  hundreds  of  miles  to  Emporia. 
The  valley  varies  from  four  to  forty  miles  in 
width,  and  irrigation  is  soen  here  and  there. 
La  Junta  is  1,775. 7  miles  from  San  Francisco, 
and  571  from  Kansas  City,  and  is  the  junction 
of  the  "New  Mexico  Extension  "  with  the  main 
line.  The  main  line  extends  west  to  Peublo, 
63.5  miles,  there  connecting  with  the  Denver 
and  Bio  Grande  Bailway  for  Colorado  Springs, 
Manitou,  Denver  and  southwestern  Colorado. 

La  Junta  is  the  first  point  in  going  east  from 
•which  there  are  two  passenger  trains  a  day 
to  Kansas  City.  The  plains  appear  unproduc- 
tive, but  they  afford  fine  pasturage,  as  is  evi- 
denced by  the  cattle  along  the  road. 

Las  Animas—5^S  miles  from  Kansas  City, 
is  one  of  the  important  centres  of  this  vast 
trade.  Just  before  breakfasting  the  train  will 
cross  the  State  line,  486.7  miles  from  Kansas 
City,  and  2.4  miles  from  Conl'dg",  the  eating 
station,  when  the  Western  division  ends  and 
the  Middle  division  begins.  From  this  point 
the  road  traverses  the  great  State  of  Kansas 
until  it  enters  Missouri,  near  Kansas  City.  The 
whole  day  will  be  spent  along  the  Arkansas 
Biver,  with  dinner  at  Lamed,  308  miles  from 
Kansas  City. 

At  Ellinwood,  275. 7  miles  from  Kansas  City, 
there  is  a  branch  road  or  cut-off,  uniting  again 
with  the  main  line  at  Florence.  The  through 
trains  follow  the  longer  line,  making  a  detour 
to  the  south  and  passing  through  Newton,  one 
of  the  most  flourishing  sections  in  the  centre  of 
the  State. 

At  Hutchinson,  234.1  miles  from  Kansas 
City,  the  railroad  leaves  the  Arkansas  Biver, 
which  it  has  followed  from  La  Junta,  and  takes 
a  course  east,  crosses  the  Little  Arkansas  Biver 
a  short  distance  east  of  Burrton  to 
Newton,  a  city  of  4,000  people,  in  the  midst 


of  the  prosperous  Mennonites,  whose  farms 
and  schools  are  not  excelled  in  this  enterprising 
State.  Here  are  mulberry  hedges,  busy  silk- 
worms, refuse  manure  burning  in  the  houses 
in  large  ovens  for  fuel,  corn,  wheat,  live-stock 
of  all  kinds,  and,  in  short,  whatever  products 
are  common  to  a  good  farm.  From  Newton 
there  is  a  branch  road  directly,  80.4  miles  to 
Caldwell,  on  the  boundary  of  the  Indian  Ter- 
ritory, waiting  for  permission  to  cross  to  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico.  From  this  branch  there  are 
two  other  branches,  one  southeast  to  Arkansas 
City,  and  the  other  west  to  Harper. 

From  Newton  the  general  course  is  north-east 
to  Kansas  City.  At 

Florence^  an  eating-station  for  all  passenger 
trains,  and  the  supper-station  for  the  Atlantic 
Express  going  east,  every  sportsman  should 
spend  a  few  days.  No  place  in  the  State  excels 
this  for  prairie  chickens  (t'trao  cupido]  or 
grouse  shooting.  In  autumn  McPherson  Lake, 
on  the  short  line,  or  McPkersnn.  Branch,  about 
midway  between  Florence  and  Ellinwood,  is 
covered  with  ducks  and  geese  that  afford  pleas- 
ant shooting  from  a  stand  among  reeds  on  the 
shore. 

From  Florence  there  is  another — the  Eldorado 
Branch — extending  directly  south  about  thirty 
miles.  After  leaving  Florence,  the  Cottonwool 
Biver,  on  which  it  is  situated,  is  followed  to 
Emporia.  The  country  resembles  in  cultivation 
the  well-farmed  prairies  of  Illinois  or  Ohio. 
Farmers  live  comfortably.  Towns  are  numer- 
ous and  prosperous. 

Cotionwood  Falls,  on  the  main  line,  is  the 
county -seat  of  Chase  County,  and  derives  much 
importance  from  its  water-power,  coal  and 
ochre  beds,  and  numerous  quarries  of  an  ex- 
ceedingly handsome  magnesian  limestone.  This 
stone  was  used  for  the  State  buildings  at  Topeka, 
and  is  transported  throughout  all  the  State. 

Emporia  is  at  the  crossing  of  the  Neosho 
Biver,  127.8  miles  from  Kansas  City,  and  2, 218. 7 
from  San  Francisco,  is  a  town  of  10,000  people, 
the  seat  of  the  State  Normal  School,  and  has 
business  houses  that  would  do  credit  to  Kansas 
City  itself.  It  was  settled  in  1857.  To  see  this 
charming  part  of  the  State,  between  Florence 
and  Kansas  City,  one  going  east  should  take  a 
day  train,  spending  the  night  at  Newton  or 
Florence.  From  Emporia  the  Hmvird  Branch 
extends  directly  south,  76  miles  to  Howard. 

Osatje  City,  Burlingame  and  Carbon- 
dale  are  all  in  the  centre  of  a  vast  coal  region, 
tapped  by  the  Missouri  Pacific,  as  well  as  the 
Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe  Bailroad.  This 
great  coal  body  is  208  miles  long  and  107  wide. 
There  are  two  beds  of  bituminous  coal  in  the 
strata,  one  of  which  is  thirteen  feet  thick,  about 
300  f9et  below  the  surface,  and  the  other  9j4 
feet  thick  about  400  feet  down.  Burlingame 


368 


has  a  branch  north  to  Manhattan  on  the  Kaw 
River,  and  uniting  there  with  the  Kansas 
Pacific  Division  of  the  Union  Pacific  Railway. 
Pagosa  Springs. — These  Springs  are  situ- 
ated near  the  base  of  the  San  Juan  Mountains, 
in  southeastern  Colorado,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
noted  hot  springs  on  the  continent.  It  has  long 
been  famous  among  Indian  tribes.  It  is  in  a 
beautiful  valley  three  miles  long  by  one  mile 


there  is  a  copious  deposit,  which  has  built  up 
the  rim  of  various  hues,  generally  white  tint,  but 
sometimes  green  or  pink  in  color.  The  rim 
is  largely  chloride  of  sodium,  but  silicates  are 
also  found.  The  flow  has  gradually  pushed  over 
the  walls  or  rim  of  the  basin  until  it  has  cov- 
ered an  area  of  ten  or  twenty  acres  to  a  deplh 
of  twenty  f oet  or  more. 

Topeka  is  the  capital  of  the  State,  and  also 


PAGOSA  SPRINGS,    COLORADO. 


wide,  surrounded  by  lofty  pine-clad  mountains, 
over-topped  by  bold-craggy  peaks.  It  is  a 
great  basin  about  150  feet  in  circumference,  and 
of  depth  unknown  as  yet.  Its  waters  are  con- 
tinually seething  and  emitting  clouds  of  car- 
bonic acid  and  sulphuretted  hydrogen  gas  that 
resembles  the  vapor  of  steam.  The  taste  of 
the  water  is  decidedly  mineral,  and  from  it 


the  headquarters  for  the  Atchison,  Topeka  and 
Santa  FQ  Railroad.  It  is  50. 5  miles  from  Atchi- 
son, and  66.6  from  Kansas  City.  Its  name 
means  "potatoes"  in  the  Indian  tongue,  and 
both  are  familiar  in  American  history.  Its 
population  is  nearly  20,000.  Its  public  build- 
ings, colleges  and  seminaries,  and  railroad  and 
machine  shops,  give  it  physical,  intellectual 


369 


GRAND  CANON  OF  THE  ARKANSAS,  ON  DENVER  AND  KIO  GRANDE  RAILWAY, 

COLOBADO. 


political  and  moral  provinces  in  the  State. 
From  Topeka  to  Kansas  City,  the  road  fol- 
lows the  south  bank  of  the  Kaw  or  Kansas 
river.  On  the  north  bank  of  the  river,  at 
Topeka,  is  the  Kansas  Pacific  division  of  the 
Union  Pacific  Railway.  The  depot  of  this  road 
is  in  North  Topeka. 


From  Topeka  the  main  line  of  the  A.  T.  &  S.  F. 
road  extends  to  Afchison,  50.5  miles,  and  there 
forms  close  connection  for  all  points  in  the 
east.  It  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  Missouri  river,  at  the  extreme  western 
point  of  the  "  Great  Bend."  The  Missouri  is 
bridged  at  this  point,  and  in  the  Union  depot 


371 


there  are  to  bo  found  the  trains  of  the  Hannibal 
&  St.  Joe,  and  Chicago,  Burlington  &  Quincy 
roads,  and  those  of  the  Chicago,  Eock  Island  & 
Pacific,  and  the  Missouri  Pacific  roads,  all  of 
which  have  eastern  connections. 

The  Overland  Express  leaves  the  main  line  at 
Topeka,  and  takes  the  Kansas  City  branch  to 
Kansas  City.  It  follows  the  right  or  south 
bank  of  the  Kansas  or  Kaw  river,  and  the 
Kansas  Pacific  runs  parallel  on  the  north  bank. 
Both  of  these  roads  pass  through  Lfcompton 
and  Lawrencr.  Lecompton  was  the  capital  in 
the  stormy  days  of  the  slavery  agitation,  and 
Lawrence  the  head-quarters  of  John  Brown, 
Lane,  Robinson,  Con  way  and  other  noted  anti- 
slavery  leaders.  It  was  named  in  honor  of 
Amos  Lawrence,  of  Boston.  In  1863,  it  was 
burned  during  the  Quantrell  raid,  but  it  has 
been  rebuilt,  and  is  the  prettiest  c  --ty  in  Kansas. 
It  is  an  important  centre  for  railroads.  The 
Union  Pacific  have  a  branch  to  Leavenworth 
in  the  north,  and  Carbondale  in  the  south, 
and  the  Kansas  City,  Lawrence  &  Southern 
Kansas  R.  R. ,  from  Kansas  City  and  Lawrence 
south  to  the  Neosho  valley  and  southern  Kan- 
sas. It  is  also  the  ssat  of  the  State  University. 
and  the  second  city  of  the  State  in  s'ze. 

Pleasant  Hill  Branch  leaves  the  main  line  at 
Cedar  Junction,  23  miles  from  Kansas  City, 
and  forms  a  connection  with  the  Missouri 
Pacific  at  Pleasant  Hill,  44  miles  distant. 

Kansas  City  is  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Missouri  river,  just  over  the  Kansas  line  in 
Missouri.  It  is  the  greatest  railroad  centre 
west  oi'  Chicago  and  St.  Louis,  and  one  of  the 
most  important  commercial  cities  of  the  Union. 
It  boasts  of  being  the  geographical  centre,  and 
expects  to  receive  the  national  capital  when  it 
is  moved  from  Washington.  Here  the  river 
bends  to  the  east  and  is  spanned  by  an  elegant 
bridge.  The  city  is  mainly  situated  on  more 
than  "  seven  hills,"  while  the  great  and  com- 
modious Union  depot  is  under  the  bluff.  The 
hills  have  been  levelled,  and  the  valleys  filled, 
water  and  street  railways  introduced.  There 
are  nearly  a  score  of  banks,  two  medical  col- 
leges, besides  numerous  wholesale  houses,  some 
of  which  claim  to  be  the  largest  west  of  New 
York  city.  The  stock  yards  are  extensive,  and 
in  beef  and  pork  packing  the  people  expect  to 
soon  distance  Cincinnati,  St.  Louis  and  Chicago. 

The  Union  depot  is  large  and  commodious, 
and  the  bridge  across  the  Missouri  river  solid 
and  substantial.  Street  cars  run  from  the 
depot  to  the  business  centre  and  chief  parts  of 
the  city. 

From  Kansas  City  eastward  there  are  seven 
trunk  lines,  and  each  of  these  has  numerous 
variations  of  the  route,  with  different  forms  of 
ticket.  1.  There  is  the  Chicago,  Burlington  & 
Quincy.  2.  The  Chicago,  Rock  Island  &  Paci- 


fic. 3.  The  Missouri  Pacific  to  St.  Louis.  4 
and  5.  The  Chicago  &  Alton  to  both  Chicago 
and  St.  Louis;  and  6  and  7.  The  Wabash  to 
both  Chicago,  St.  Louis  and  Toledo.  For  fur- 
ther information  about  these  routes  see  pages 
9  and  10. 


THE  TRIPLE  PACIFIC  LINE. 

The  third  great  trans-continental  railway  was 
opened  in  January,  1882,  between  St.  Louis 
and  New  Orleans  and  San  Francisco  -via  Dem- 
ing.  It  is  composed  of  three  roads  between 
the  Missouri  river  and  Pacific  ocean,  viz. :  The 
Southern  Pacific,  as  leased  totheCantral  Paci- 
fic, the  Texas  -Pacific  and  the  St.  Louis  and 
Iron  Mountain  &  Southern  Railway,  and  is 
eleven  miles  longer  to  St.  Louis  than  the  route 
vi'i  Topeka  and  Kansas  City.  Doming  is  th9 
only  point  between  St.  Louis  and  San  Francisco 
at  which  cars  must  be  changed.  The  routa 
from  Deming  east,  being  south  of  the  Atchison, 
Topeka  &  Sante  Fe,  avoids  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains and  passes  through  a  country  almost  frea 
from  snow.  At  Deming,  close  connection  is 
made  with  the  trains  of  the  Southern  Pacific 
Railroad. 

The  Southern  Pacific  extends  westward  from 
Deming,  and  will  have  its  terminus  at  New 
Orleans.  At  El  Paso  it  forms  a  junction  with 
the  Texas  Pacific.  Going  eastward,  then  over 
this  triple  route  from  Deming,  the  course  is 
south  of  east  to  Messilla  (Mess-See- Ya),  and 
then  east  of  south  to  El  Paso. 

Mesilla  is  on  the  Rio  Grande,  in  the  Mesilla 
valley,  a  valley  fertile  in  soil  and  delightful  in 
climate.  Across  the  river  is  the  Atchison, 
Topeka  &  Santa  Fe  branch  from  Rincon.  East 
of  the  river  are  the  Organ  mountains.  Fort 
Bliss  is  in  Texas  a  short  distance  north  of  El 
Paw. 

El  Paso  (the  Pass)  is  on  the  American  side 
of  the  Rio  Grande  river,  opposite  El  Paso  del 
Norte  (the  north  pass)  in  Mexico.  The  name 
arises  from  the  river  passing  through  a  gorge 
in  the  mountains,  which  has  bean  the  chief 
thoroughfare  between  Mexico  and  New  Mexico. 
Just  before  reaching  the  American  town,  the 
monument  marking  the  boundary  line  between 
Mexico  and  the  United  States  may  be  seen 
across  the  river  on  the  top  of  one  of  the  peaks 
in  the  low  mountain  range.  The  town  is  a  mix- 
ture of  Mexican  and  American  civilization, 
with. the  latter  fast  overcoming  the  former. 

The  Mexican  Central  R.  R.,  a  continuation 
of  the  A.  T.  &S.  F.,  which  enters  El  Paso 
from  Rincon,  running  parallel  with  the  S.  P. 
for  some  distance  west  of  the  town,  is  carrying 
American  ideas  toward  the  capital  of  our  sister 
republic,  and  bringing  back  all  the  wealth  the 
Americans  can  get.  Eastward  the  route  is  over 


372 


GRAND  CANON   OF  THE  ARKANSAS,    ON   DENVER  AND   RIO   GRANDE  RAILWAY, 

COLORADO. 


a  grazing  country   across  the  northern    por- 
tion of  the  great  State. 

At  Fort  Worth,  passengers  for  St.  Louis  have 
a  choice  of  routes.  One  is  -via  the  Missouri 
Pacific  through  the  Indian  territory  to  Fort 
Scott,  Kansas,  and  Sedalia,  Mo.  For  this  route 
a  change  of  cars  must  be  made  at  Fort  Worth 
to  the  through  Pullman  sleeper  from  San 


Antonio  to  St.  Louis.  The  other  requires  no 
change  of  cars  after  leaving  Deming  and  passes 
Marshall,  Texas. 

Texarkann,  in  the  southeast  corner  of 
Arkansas,  and  Little  J?oc6vrith  its  Hot  Springs. 
The  time  and  fare  by  this  route  are  the  same  to 
St.  Louis  as  via  the  Atchison,  Topeka  and 
Santa  Fe  Bailroad. 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 

PAGE. 

PAGE. 

PAGK. 

Acambo,                              309 

Benson,                        358,  359 

Cape  Horn  Mills,                252 

Cozad,                                    38 

Acton,                                  341 

Beowawe,                            202 

Carbon,                                  91 

Creston,  Cal.,                     314 

Adams,                                  61 

Berenda,                              336 

Carbondale,                         367 

Creston,  Wy.,                       94 

Agnew's,                             318 

Berlin,                                 317 

Carlin,                                  196 

Cressey,                                335 

Alameda. 

Bernal,                                329 

Carnadero,                          332 

Cross  Creek,                        336 

Albuquerque,                      363 

Bethany,                             334 

Carriages,                            302 

Cucamonga,                        345 

Alda,                                     31 

Big  Bonanza  Mines,         235 

Carson  City,                 221,222 

Curiosities  of  History,        12 

Alida,                                   33T 

Big  Horn,                              94 

Carson  &  Colorado  R.R.,  222 

Curtis,                                 316 

Alkali,                                   47 

Big  Spring,                             48 

Carter,                                  105 

Alma,                                   318 

Big  Trees,                            299 

Carter  Hills  and  Mud 

Dale  Creek  Bridge              81 

Alpha,                                  199 

Biggs,                                   325 

Volcano,                           168 

Dana,                                     91 

Alpine,                                341 

Bitter  Creek,                   95-97 

Casa  Grande,                       352 

Davisville                            263 

Alta,                                    247 

Bishop's,                                193 

Cascade,                               244 

Decoto,                                  313 

Altamont,                            311 

Black  Buttes,                       97 

Castle.                                  309 

Deep  Wells,                        199 

Alvarado,                            318 

Black   Hills  of  'Wyom- 

Castroville,                        333 

Deer  Lodge  Springs,          158 

Alviso,                                 318 

ing,                                  68,  87 

Cedar,                                   199 

Deeth,                                    193 

Amndor  Branch  R.  R.,      308 

Black  Rock,                       148 

Centerville,                         131 

Delano,                                  337 

Ames.                                    26 

Blue  Canon,                        247 

Central  City,                         29 

Delavan,                              317 

American  Artists    and 

Blue  Creek,               .          181 

Central  Pacific  R.  R.,        177 

Deming,                         362,  363 

Explorers,                         32 

Boca,                                    238 

Ceres,  Turlock,  Cressey, 

Denver.                                 75 

American  Fork,                 140 

Bodega  X  Roads,                321 

&  Atwater,                       335 

Denver  Junction.                48 

American  Fork  Canon,  143-7 

Bonneville,                          180 

Cerritos,                               343 

Denver  &  Rio  Grande 

Anaheim,                            343 

Borden,                                336 

Chapman,                              29 

R.  R.,                                  75 

Analysis,                               154 

Boulder,                                73 

Chappell,                              67 

Desert,                                 214 

Anderson,                           325 

Bovine,                                 190 

Cheyenne  Div.  U.  P.  R.R.,  73 

Devil's    Gate     on    the 

Andrews,                             341 

Bowie,                                  360 

Cliico,                                   326 

Sweetwater,                     108 

Anita,                                  325 

Box  Springs,                197,  199 

Chimney  Rock,                    43 

Devil's    Gate,     "Weber 

Antelope,  Neb.,                   59 

Bozeman.                             158 

Chinese   in  San  Fran- 

Canon,                             124 

Antelope,  Cal.,                   258 
Antioch.                                334 

Brady  Island,                       39 
Brentwood,                         334 

cisco,                                 279 
China  Ranch,                      247 

Devil's  Slide,                       122 
1  >exter,                                  47 

A  r  buckle,                            317 

Bridger,                               105 

Church  Buttes,                   103 

Dix.                                        59 

Arcade,                                258 

Brigham,                             180 

Chualar,                               333 

Dixon,                                  264 

Archer,                                  62 

Brighton,                             308 

Cicero,                                 308 

Dominpuez,                         343 

ArgentH,                              202 

Bronco,                                  238 

Cisco,                                   245 

Donahue,                             322 

Army  Point,                        264 

Brooklyn,                            314 

Clark,                                    29 

Dos  Palmos,                        346 

Artesian  Wells,                  113 

Brown  s,  C.  P.  R.  R..         213 

Clear  Creek,                        325 

Dougherty's  Mill,              318 

Aspen,                                 106 
Atkins,                                  61 

Brown's,  V.  &  T.  R.  R.,    221 
Brown's  Hole,                    100 

Clear  Creek  Canon,             79 
Climate  of  Cali- 

Downey,                              343 
Dragon  Summit,                 359 

Atmosphere,                       156 

Brownson,                            59 

fornia,                  277-8,  293-7 

Draperville,                  139,140 

Atwater,                              335 

Brule,                                    48 

Clipper  Gap,                      255 

Driving  the  last  Spike, 

Avon,                                   334 

Bryan,                                  102 

Cloud  Kffects,                      58 

180-184 

Australia,                            327 

Budda,                                   33 

Cloverdale,                          323 

Duncan,                                29 

Auburn,                               255 

Buffaloes,                             63 

Cluro,                             199,  201 

Duncan's  Mills,                  321 

Aurora,                                  89 

Buffalo  Grass,                     47 

Coalville,                             118 

Durham,                              325 

Buffalo  Robes,                     27 

Coin,                                     205 

Dutch  Flat,                         249 

Baden,                               329 

Buckeye,                             325 

Colfax,                                 253 

Baggage,                                   8 

Bufonl,                                  80 

Colma,                                 329 

Early  Times,                    84-86 

Banning,                        *    345 

Bullion,                               197 

Colorado  Div.  IT.  P.  R.  R.,  73 

Eastern  Trunk  Lines,      9-1  1 

Bantas,                                31  1 

Bull  whackers,               56,  57 

Colorado  Junction,              80 

Echo,                                    117 

Barton,                                  48 

Burlingame,                       367 

Colorado  Plains,                  60 

Echo  Canon,               113,114 

Batavia,                               264 

Burns,                                   61 

Colorado  Steam  Naviga- 

Economy,                           282 

Battle  Creek,                      158 

Bushnell,                              61 

tion  Co.,                           349 

Eden  Vale,                          331 

Battle  with  the  Indians 

Byron,                                 334 

Colton,                            57,  345 

Edson,                                    92 

at  Plum  Creek,             34-37 

Columbia  River,                326 

Egbert,                                  61 

Battle  Mountain,               203 

Cabazon,                             345 

Columbus,                             27 

Elkhorn,                               21 

Baxter,                                  98 

Cachise,                               359 

Compton,                             343 

Elko,                                    194 

Bay  of  San  Francisco,267,  268 
Bay  Point,                           234 

Cactus,                                 348 
Caliente,                              338 

Cooper's  Lake,                    89 
Cordelia,                              314 

Elm  Creek,                          34 
Ellis,                                    311 

Bealeville,                          339 

California  Pacific  R.  R.,   314 

Corinne,                       180,  181 

Elk  Grove,                           308 

Bear  River  City,                 108 

Calistoga,                              316 

Cornwall,                            334 

Ellinwood,                            367 

Beet  Sugar,                        261 

Cameron,                             339 

Cottonwood,                       325 

Elmira,                                264 

Belmout,                             329 

Cana,                                    325 

Cottonwood  Falls,             367 

El  Paso,                        371,  372 

Benlcia,                               264 

Candelaria,                         222 

Coyote,  Cal.,                       331 

Emerald  Bay,              231,  232 

Benton,                                 26 

Cape  Horn,                        252 

Coyote,  Neb.,                       38 

Emigrant  Gap,                   247 

INDEX. 


PAGK. 

PAGK. 

PAGE. 

PAG15. 

Emporla,                             367 

Hawthorne,                         222 

Lordsburgh,                        362 

Mountain  View,                  330 

Essex,                                     238 

Hayward's,                          313 

Lorenzo,                              313 

Mowry's                                 318 

Estes  Park,                      73,  79 

Head  Waters  of  the  Sac- 

Los Angeles,                       342 

Murphy's,                            330 

Estrella,                               352 

ramento  &  Me.  Shasta. 

Los  Angeles  and  Inde- 

Eureka,                               199 

303,  325 

pendence  R.  R.,               342 

Nadean,                              340 

Eureka  &  Palisade  R.R.,   197 

Healdsburg,                         323 

Los  Angeles  &  ban  Die- 

Names, Curious,                 218 

Evanston,                     109,110 

Health  and  Pleasure  Re- 

go R.  R.,                           343 

Napa,                                   316 

Ewing,                                  324 

sorts  of  California,         297 

Los  Gatos,                            318 

Napa  Valley,                       316 

Excursions,  San  Fran- 

Helena City,                        15* 

Lovelady's,                          318 

Natchez,                              193 

cisco,                           274-277 

Hillsdale,                               61 

Lovelock's,                          212 

Nelson                                   325 

Hints  to  Invalids,              293 

Lucin,                                   190 

Nephi,                                  141 

Fairfax,                                320 

Hollister,                             332 

Lumber  and    Trees  of 

Nevada    Central   Rail- 

Fail-field,                             264 

Honcut,                                324 

the  Lake  Region,        233 

way,                            203,  205 

Fair  Oaks,                            330 

Hooker,                                325 

Nevada  City,               253,  255 

Farmiiigton,                        131 

Hot  Springs.                       214 

Macy,                                   317 

Nevada  County  Narrow 

Felton,                                  318 

Hot  Springs.Utah,  127,  133-34 

Madera,                               336 

Gauge  R.  R.,                    253 

Fillmore,                                94 

Hotel  Charges,                       8 

Madrone,                             331 

Nevada  Fluiue,                   233 

Florence,  Cal.,                   343 

Howard's.                            321 

Maiden's  Grave,                 201 

Newark,                               318 

Florence,  Kan.,                   367 

Howell,                                  89 

Mammoth  Tank,         316,  348 

Newcastle,                           257 

Florin,                                  308 
Flowing  "Wells,                   346 

Humboldt,                           209 
Hutchinson,                        367 

Manitou  Springs,                 75 
Mammoth  White  Moun- 

New England  Mills,          256 
Newhall,                              341 

Flume,  Nev.,                       236 

tain  Hot  Springs,     163-165 

New  Mexico,                       361 

Fowler,                                 336 

Idaho  Territory,                 189 

Mark  West,                        323 

New  Pleasure   Resorts 

Fort  McPherson,                  39 

Independence,                    191 

Maricopa,                            352 

in  Colorado,                       73 

Fort  Sanders,                        83 

Independence  Rock,          108 

Marston,                              112 

Newspapers,                        138 

Fort  Steele                       82,  93 

Indian  Burial  Tree,             87 

Martinez,                             334 

Newton,                                 367 

Franklin,                             158 

Indians,                          90,  361 

Marysville,                          324 

Nichols,                                 47 

Frauktown,                         221 

Indio,                                   346 

Matlin,                                 190 

Niles,                                   342 

Freestone,                          321 

Invalids,  Hints  to,  45-6,  293-7 

Maxwell,                               39 

Nord,                                   325 

Fremont,                              23 

lone  City,                            308 

Maxwell,                            317 

Norman,                              317 

Fresno,                                 336 

Iron  Point,                           206 

Mayfleld,                              330 

North  Bend,                         26 

Frink's  Spring,                   346 

McAvoy,                              334 

North   Fork    of    Echo 

Fulton,                                 323 

Jackson,                              309 

McConnell's,                      308 

Canon,                       115,  117 

Josselyn,                              34 

Meals,                           7,  8,  11 

North  Pacific  Coast  R.K.,  319 

Gait,                                      308 

Juab,                                    141 

Medicine  Bow,                     90 

North  Platte.                  41,  43 

Gannett,                              39 

Julesburg,                        48-50 

Medicine  Bow  Range,        88 

Northern  Railway,             317 

Gambling,                            289 

Junction  (City),  Utah,      139 

Melrose,                               313 

Notes  to  Tourists,               76 

Garden  of  the  Gods,            77 

Menlo  Park,                        330 

Gardening,  Irrigation,      137 

Kammas  City,                     119 

Merced,                                335 

Oasis  in  the  Desert,           210 

Garden  Pass,                      199 

Kaysville,                            131 

Mercer,                                  22 

Oak  Grove,                          329 

Geysers,  Cal.,                     304 

Kearney  junction,              33 

Merrill's,                             316 

Oak  Knoll,                          316 

Geyserville,                         323 

Keene,                                 339 

Mescal                                  358 

Oakland,                265-267,  314 

Geyser     Basins,      Fire 

Kelton,                                185 

Meseilla,                              371 

Ochoa,                                    359 

Hole  River,                      169 
Georgetown,                         79 

Kingsbury,                          336 
Knight's  Landing,             310 

Mesquile,                             348 
Metumwa,                            19 

O'Fallon's,                            47 
Ogalalla,                          37,  47 

Giant's  Club,                       100 

Middle  Park,                       79 

Ogden,                                  124 

Gibbon,                                  33 

Lake,                                  184 

Midway,                               311 

Ogden  Canon,                     126 

Gila  Bend,                           352 

Lake  County,                      305 

Milbrae,                               329 

Old  Overland  Route,          308 

Gila  City,                             349 

Lake  Point,                         148 

Millis,                                  109 

Olema,                                 321 

Gilbert's  Peak,                   108 

Lake  Tahoe,                230,  231 

Mines  of  Virginia  Cily,    224 

Omaha,                                  15 

Gilmore,                               20 

Lake  Utah,                         147 

Millstone  Point,          147,  148 

Ombey,                                 190 

Gilroy,                                  331 

Lake  View,                          221 

Mill  City,               •              209 

Opium  Smoking,                291 

Girard,                                 339 

Lakeville,                           322 

Mill  Station,                       221 

Orange,                                344 

Glenwood,                          318 

Lamy,                                   363 

Millard,                                 20 

Oreana,                                212 

Gloster,                               340 

Lancaster,                          340 

Mineral,                               199 

Oregon,                                326 

Golconda,                           206 

Lang,                                    341 

Mineral  Springs,  Cal.,      305 

Oregon  Division    C.  P. 

Gold  Hill,                            222 

Laramie, 

Mining,                                129 

R.  R.,                                324 

Gold  Run,                            251 

Laramie  Peak,                     86 

M  in  turn,                              336 

Oroville,                               324 

Gonzales,                             333 

Laramie  Plains,                   82 

Mirage,                                213 

Osajre  City,                          367 

Goshen,                                336 

Las  Auimas,                        367 

Miser,                                     89 

Osino,                                   194 

Grand   Canon    of    the 

Las  Vegas,                           366 

Modesto,                              335 

Otego,                                 191 

Arkansas,                           77 

Latham,                                 95 

Mohawk  Summit,              350 

Outfitting,                    159,  161 

Grand  Island,                      30 

Lathrop,                              310 

Mojave                                 340 

Otto,                                       80 

Granger,                             103 

Lawrence's,                         330 

Mokelumne  Hill,                309 

Overland  Pony  Express,  43-45 

Granite  Canon,                    80 

Lehi,                                     140 

Moleen,                                196 

Overton,                                84 

Granite  Point,                    213 

Lerdo,                                  337 

Monell,                                  95 

Oxford,                                 168 

Grant's,                                323 

Leroy,                                  105 

Montana,  Wonders  of,      157 

Grass  Valley,                     253 

Life  in  Colorado,           77,  79 

Monte,                                 344 

Pacific  Transfer  Co.,            8 

Gray's  Peak,                       77 

Lincoln,                               324 

Montello,                             191 

Pagosa  Springs,                  368 

Great  Plains  &  Desert,     204 
Greeley,                           73,  75 

Lisbon,                                 362 
Little  Cottonwood,            139 

Monterey,                    306,  307 
Moor's,                                 192 

Painted  Rock,                     350 
Paiaro,                                   332 

Green  Kiver,                 98-101 

Litton  Springs,                   323 

Monument,                         185 

Palace  Butte,                      176 

Grennvllle,                            93 

Livermore,                         312 

Moirano,                              335 

Palace  Car  Life, 

Gridley,                              325 

Lockwood,                            30 

Mt.  Blackmore,           173,  174 

Palisade, 

Lodge  Pole,                         67 

Mt.  Eden,                            318 

Pampa,                                338 

Hailstorms,                          61 

LodF,                                    309 

Mt.  Shasta,                   303,  325 

Pantano, 

Half  Way  House,              149 

Logan,                                  158 

Mt  Tamalpats,                   320 

Papngo,                                358 

Halleck,                             193 

Logandale,                         817 

Mound  City,                        345 

Papihon,                               20 

Hallville,                             97 

Lomo  and  Live  Oak,         325 

Mound  House,                   222 

Parley's  Park,                   120 

Hampton,                            105 
Hanging  Rock,                    115 

Long's  Peak,                       62 
Longmont, 

Mountains,                            71 
Mountain  of  the  Holy 

Pay  son,                              141 
Peko,                                  194 

Harney,                                 83 

Lookout,                                89 

Cross,                                79 

Peoa.                                  U8 

Harrington,                       317 

Loray,                                 191 

Mountain  on  Fire,             111 

Penrhyn,                              267 

INDEX. 


PAGE. 

PAGE. 

PAGE. 

PAGE. 

Pequop,                                191 

Salida,                                  335 

Southern  Pacific  R.  R. 

Upper  Geyser  Basin.         170 

Percy,                                   91 
Perry's,                                331 

Salinas,                                333 
Salt  Lake  City,             131-139 

of  Arizona,                      349 
Soledad,                               333 

Upper  Weber  Valley,       118 
Utah,                                    127 

Peterson,                              123 

Salt  Wells,                          97 

Solon,                                     94 

Utah  Central  R.  R.,           129 

Picacho,                               356 

Salvia,                                    218 

Soto,                                     325 

Utah  Northern  Branch 

Piedmont,                     105,  106 

San  Bruno,                          329 

Spadra,                                345 

U.  P  Railway,                 167 

Pike's  Peak,                          22 

Sand  Creek,                         340 

Spanish  Fork,                     141 

Utah  Southern  R.  R.,        138 

Pine  Bluffs,                           61 

San  Diego,                           344 

Sporting,                      110,  140 

Utah  Western  R.  R.,         147 

Pino.                                     257 

Sandy,                                  139 

Stanwix,                              350 

Pinole,                                  265 
Piute,                                   205 

San  Fernando,                    341 
San  Fernando  Tunnel,      341 

State  Capitol.  Cal.,     260,  261 
SteamboHt  Springs,           221 

Vaca  Valley  and  Clear 
Lake  R.  K..                      264 

Placer  Mining,             249,  251 
Plainsburg,                          336 

San  Francisco,              268-274 
San  Fran  cisco  &  North 

Stern's  Pass,                       361 
Stevenson,                             34 

Vallejo  Junction,              26.% 
Valona,                                  265 

Pleasanton                           312 
Pleasant  Grove,                  140 

Pacific  R.  R.,                   322 
San  Gabriel,                        344 

St.  Helena.                          316 
Stock  Statistics,                   84 

Valley  of  the  Chugwater,   90 
Valley  Ford,                        321 

Plum  Creek.                          34 
Point  of  Rocks,                    97 

San  Gorgonio,                     345 
San  Joaquin  Bridge,         311 

Stockton.                      300,  310 
Stockton  &Copperopolis 

Valley  Station,                     21 
Verdi,                                   23* 

Pomona,                               345 

San  Joaquin  Valley,          334 

R  R  .                                  310 

Veta  Pass,                         380 

Port  Costa,                          264 
Posa,                                     337 

San  Jose,              31f  ,  330,  331 
San  Leandro,                      313 

Stone  House,                      205 
Storms.                                 253 

Vigilance  Committee  In- 
cident,                              211 

Potter,                                    59 
Powder  River  Country,       80 
Practical  Hints,                     7 

San  Marcial,                       363 
San  Mateo,                          329 
San  Pablo,                           265 

Successful  Farming,            31 
Suisun  City,                         264 
Summit,                 199,  242,  244 

Virginia  Citv,        158,  223-224 
Virginia  &  Truckee  R.  R.,  221 
Vista                                     218 

Prairie  Dogs,                         63 

San  Rafael,                         320 

Summit  Siding,                    20 

Vina,                                    325 

Prairie  Fires,                        22 

San  Simon,                          360 

Summit  Springs,  Wy.,         50 

Proctor's,                             239 

Santa  Ana,                          344 

Summit  Valley,                  244 

Promontory,                        181 
Prosser  Creek,                    23.8 

Santaquin,                           141 
Santa  Clara,                 318,  330 

Sumner,                               337 
Sunol,                                   312 

Wadsworth,                 214,  215 
Wahsatch,                           111 

Provo,                                   140 

Santa  Cruz,                  319,  332 

Sunset   Scene   on    Mt. 

Walcott,                                92 

Puente,                                344 
Puget  Sound,                      326 

San  Miguel,                         329 
Santa  Monica,                     342 

Washburne,                       68 
Sutler  Creek,                      309 

Walters,                               346 
Warm  Springs,                    133 

Purissima,                             329 

San  Quentin,                       319 

Swan  Lake.                         158 

Warren,                                 39 

Pyramid,                             3K2 

Santa  Rosa,                         322 

Sweetwater,                         101 

Washakie,                             96 

Pyramid  Lake,                    215 

Sargent's,                            332 

Sycamore,                            336 

Washoe  City,                       221 

Quarry,                               181 

Savanna,                              344 
Scientific  Explorations,    104 
Schuyler,                               26 

Table  Rock,                           96 
Tahoe  City,                          232 

\Vnterloo,                                21 
Watsonville,                        332 
Watsoiiville  Landing,        333 

Railroad  Pass,                    360 

Seaside  Resorts,                  306 

Tamarack,                           245 

Weber,                                 123 

Rainbows,                              71 

Seco,                                     185 

Taylorville,                         320 

Weber  Canon,             113,  114 

Raspberry,                           209 
Ravenna,                              341 

Secret  Town,                        252 
Sentinel,                              350 

Tecoma,  Nev.,                     190 
Tehachapi  Pass,                 338 

Weber  Quarry,                    123 
Weir,  formerly  Julesburg,  48 

Rawlins,                           93,  !)4 
Reed's,                                 324 
Red  Bluff,                            325 

Separation,                           94 
Sepulveda,                           342 
Sesma,                                    325 

Tehachapi  Summit,           339 
Tehama,                               325 
Tennant's,                           331 

Wells,                            192,  193 
West  San  Leandro,           318 
West  San  Lorenzo,             318 

Red  Buttes,                           83 

Seven  Palms,                      346 

Terrace,                               190 

White  Plains,                     213 

Redding,                                325 

Shady  Run,                           247 

Texas  Hill,                          350 

Whitewater,                        345 

Red  Desert,                           95 
Red  Kock,                            356 
Reduction  of  Ores,     225,  228 

Sheep  Raising,                     84 
Shoshoue  Lake  Geysers, 
175,  176 

Thayer,                                  97 
Thompson's,                        316 
Thousand  Mile  Tree,         122 

Whitney's,                           824 
Wheatland,                         324 
Wilcox,                                  89 

Redwood  City,                    329 

Shelton,                                 31 

Thunder  Storm,                    70 

Wilkins, 

Reno,                              219,  238 

SheridHn,                             324 

Tie  Siding,                              82 

Willard's                              197 

Representative  Men  of 

Sherman,                               81 

Tipton,  Wy.,                          96 

Williams, 

California,                        262 
Representative  Men  of 

Shooting  Prairie  Hens,       26 
Shoshone,                            2«'2 

Tipton,  Cal.,                        337 
Toano,                                  191 

Willows,                              317 
Willow  Island,                     38 

the  U.  P.  R.  R.,                 24 

Shoshone  Falls,                  187 

Tocoloma,                            320 

Wilmington,                         343 

Representative  Mormons,  150 

Shoshone  Indian  Village,  197 

Tomales,                              321 

Wilmington  Division  S. 

Resources  of  Southern 
Utah,                                 143 

Sidney,                                   67 
Silver  Creek,                         29 

Tongue  River  Country,       80 
Topeka,                          368-371 

P.  R.  R.,                             343 
Windsor,                              323 

Results  of  the  opening 
of  the  Black  Hills,     69,  70 
Ride  in  the  Flume,             236 

Simpson,                                91 
Sinks  of  the  Great  Ne- 
vada Basin,                       228 

Tormey,                               265 
Tortuga,                               346 
Tower  Creek  and  Falls,     Jti5 

Windmills,  U.  P.  R.  R.,      86 
Windmills.  Cal.,                 308 
Wind  River  Mountains,      86 

Ripon,                                  335 
Rock  Creek,                          89 
Rockliu,                               257 

Six  Companies,                    281 
Skillful  Cookery,               253 
Skull  Rocks,                         82 

Tracy,  Neb.,                          61 
Tracy  Junction.Cal.,  311,  334 
Tree  Planting,  Neb.,           31 

Winnemucca,                206-209 
Woodland,                            316 
Wood  River.                          31 

Rock  Springs,                       98 
Rocks  of  Weber  Canon,    122 

Sleeping  Car  Expenses,      11 
Snow  Sheds,                        241 

Tremont,                             264 
Tres  Pinos,                            332 

Wood's  Cross,                     131 
Wright's,                             318 

Rogers,                                    26 

Snow  Storm  at  Truckee,   240 

Triple  Pacific  Line,           371 

Wyoming,                              89 

Roscoe,                                  47 

Sobrante,                             205 

Truckee,                              239 

Rose  Creek,                        209 

Socorro,                                 363 

Tucson,                                356 

Yank's,                               231 

Roseville  Junction,            257 

Soda  Springs,                      107 

Tulare,                                 337 

Yellowstone  Lake,       168-169 

Routes  to  the  National 

Soda  Springs  Station,        244 

Tulasco,                               193 

Yellowstone,                 161-163 

Park,                         158,  159 

Sequel.                                 332 

Tule,                                     206 

York,                                    141 

Rowlands,                            231 

South  Pacific  Const  R.  R.,  318 

Turlock,                                 335 

Yosemite  Valley,         297-3i'3 

Rozel.                                   184 

Southern   Pacinc  Over- 

Two Mile,  Cal.,                   214 

Yountville,                          316 

Ruins  of  Casa  Grande, 

land  Route,                      334 

Yuba,                                    S24 

352-355 

Southern   1  acific  Rail- 

Uintah,                               124 

Yuma,                                  34* 

Russell's,                             318 

road  Co.,                           328 

Uiutah  Mountains, 

Rye  Patch,                           211 

78,  103,  108 

LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PAGE. 

Agnes  Park,  6!) 

American  Fork  Canon,  142 
Ascending  the  Glaciers 

of  Alt.  Hayden,  166 

Bank  of  California,  270 
Bird's  Eye  View  of  San 

Francisco,  266 

Big  Trees  of  California,  29 1 

Kluomer  Cut,  257 
Bullwhacker   of  the 

Plains,  56 

Buffalo  Hunting,  46 

Busted,  22 

Castle  Rock,  98 

Cape  Horn.  255 

Cave  Dwellings,  355 
Chimney  Rock.  43 

Chinese  Temple,  286 
Church  Butteson  Black's 

Fork,  103 
The  Cliffs  of  Echo  Canon,  121 
Clitf  House.  &54 
Clitf  Dwellings,  353 
Coyotes,  60 
Crossing  the  Platte,  42 
Dale  Creek  Bridge,  82 
Devil's  Slide,  124 
Devil's  Gate  on  the  Sweet- 
water,  109 
Devil's  Tower,  71 
Deer  Race  with  Train, 

on  the  U.  P.  K.  R,,  92 

Dome  of  the  Continent,     64 

Donner  Lake,  243 
Early  Morning  Scene  on 

the  Laramie  Plains,         85 
Eminent  Am.  Explorers 

and  Artists.  32 
Entering  Humboldt  Can- 
on, 201 
Gallery  in  Snow  Sheds, 

C.  P.  R.  R.,  239 
Gateway  to  the  Garden 

of  the  Gods,  74 

Gardens  and  Groves  of 

California,  259 
Garden  of  the  Gods,  320 
Geysers  of  the  Yellow- 
stone, 160 
Giant's  Club,  101 
Giant's  Tea  Pot,  101 
Giant's  Gap,  250 
Good  Bye,  20 
Grand  Canon  of  the  Ar- 
kansas, 369 
Grand  Canon  of  Arkan- 
sas. 372 


PAGE. 

Grand  Duke  Alexis  Kill- 
ing his  first  Buffalo,         39 
Great  R.  R.  Wedding,      183 
Hoodlums,  272 

Hot  Springs,  366 

Hotel  Del  Monte  and 
Grounds  at  Monterey, 
Cal.,  307 

Hunting  in  the  Rocky 

Mountains,  86 

Hunting  Prairie  Hens,        26 
Indian  Tent  Scene,  28 

Indian  Attack  on  an  Over- 
land Stage,  49 
Indian  Burial  Tree, 
Indian  Costumes,                 61 
Independence  Rock.         108 
Interior  of  Mormon  Tab- 
ernacle,                            136 
Interior  of  Snow  Sheds, 

U.  P.  R  R.,  106 

Interior     of     Chinese 

Theatre,  290 

Interior  of  Office  of  Mor- 
mon President,  134 
Lake  Lai;    or   Moore's 

Lake,  111 

Lake  Tahoe,  229 

Lake  Tahoe,  (Emerald 

Bay,)  Frontispiece 

Lake  Esther,  227 

Lake  Angeline,  244 

Lightning  Scene  on  the 

Prairies,  83 

Lion's  Head  Rock,  148 

Locating  the  Line,  362 

Long's  Peak,  from  Estes 

Park,  62 

Lower  Falls  of  the  Yel- 
lowstone, 167 
Medicine  Bow  Mountains,  88 
A  Mining  Camp  in  Ari- 
zona, 310 
Mary's  Lake,  240 
Monument  Hook,  120 
Monument  Point  from 

Salt  Lake,  185 

Mountain  of  the  Holy 

Cross,  77 

Mountain  Scene  in  the 

Ruby  Range,  195 

Mt.  Blackmore,  173 

Mts.  Hayden  and  Moran,  164 
Narrows  of  Ogden  Canon,  127 
New  Mormon  Temple,      133 
New  Residence  of  Brig- 
ham  Young,  137 


PAGT? 

Night  Scene,  21 

Offices  and  Family  Resi- 
dence of  Br'igham 
Young.  133 

Old  Pony  Express  Station,  44 
Old  Mill,  147 

Overland  Pony  F.xpress 
Pursued  by  Highway- 
men, 44 
Pagosa  Springs,                  368 
Palace  Car  Life,  2 
Palace  Butte,                      174 
Palisades  on  the  Hum- 
boldt,                               200 
Pawnee   Chief   in  Full 

Dress,  52 

Pedros  Pintados,  or  Painted 

Rocks,  Arizona,  351 

Petrified  Fish  Cut.  100 

Pony  Express  Saluting 

the  Telegraph,  45 

Prairie  Dog  City,  54 

President,  134 

Progress,  5 

Public  Buildings  of  San 

Francisco,  271 

Pulpit  Rock,  117 

Pulpit  Rock  and  Valley,  118 
Pyramid  Lake,  216 

R.  R.  Station,  209 

Representative  Men  on 

U.  P.  R.  R..  24 

Representative  Mormons,  150 
Representative  Alen  of 

California,  2fi2 

Rocks  near  Echo  City       112 
Rock  Scenes  near  Echo 

City,  116 

Rock  Cut,  107 

Salt  Lake  from  Monu- 
ment Point  185 
Salt  Lake  City  and  Wah- 

satch  Mountains,  130 

San  Francisco  Mint,          270 
Scenes  in  the  Harbor  of 

San  Francisco  273 

Scenes  in  the  Yellow- 
stone Park,  172 
Secret  Town,  252 
Scenes  in  the  Black  Hills.  67 
Scenes  in  Weber  Canon,  125 
Scenes  across  the  Sierras,  248 
Scene  at  Mouth  of  Echo 

Canon.  119 

Scenes  in  the  Humboldt 

Desert,  198 

Scenery  of  the  Sierras,     245 


PAOK. 

Scene  in  Park  and  Pleas- 
ure Grounds  at  Oak 
Knoll,  Napa  Valley, 
CH!.,  315 

Scenes  on  the  Truckee 

River,  217 

Scenes  in  Alley,  Chinese 

Quarters,     '  280 

Scenes  on  Green  River,  96 
Scenes  in  Omaha,  16 

Scenes  in  American  Fork 

Canon,  144 

Scenes  across  the  Sierras,  246 
Scenes  in  Yosemite  Val- 
ley, 296 
Sentinel  Rock,  115 
Shoshone  Falls,  186 
Shoshone  Indian  Village,  180 
Silver  Palace  Car,  C.  P. 

R  R.,  179 

Skull  Rocks,  81 

Snow  Sheds  across  the 

Sierras,  238 

Snow  Slide  Mountains,  139 
Stone  Monument,  359 

Street  Scene  in  Virginia 

City,  223 

Summits  of  the  Sierras,  235 
Teocalli  Mountains,  365 

The  Thousand     Wells, 

Arizona,  347 

Thousand  Mile  Tree,  123 
Tunnel  No.  12,  241 

The  Twin  Sisters,  99 

Two  Bits  to  sue  the  Pap- 

poose,  208 

The  Uintah  Mountains,  79 
Ute  Squaw  and  Pappoose,  181 
Vernal  Falls,  298 

View  Looking  down  the 

Shoshone  Falls.  189 

View  on  the  Platte,  93 

View  of  Prescott,  351 

View  of  Salt  Lake  City,  135 
View  of  Great  Salt  Lake,  163 
Vision  of  the  Golden 

Country,  256 

Yellowstone  Lake,  169 

West  Bank  Green  River,  100 
Wilhelmina  Pass,  128 

William's  Canon, 
Winuemucca,  207 

Winter  Forest  Scene  In 

the  Sierra  Nevadas,        220 
Woodward's     Gardens, 
San  Francisco,  276 


OCCIDENTAL  AND  ORIENTAL  STEAMSHIP  COMPANY, 

FOR 

JAPAN  and  CHINA. 

Leave  Wharf,  cor.  First  and  Brannan  Sts.,  at  noon,  for 

V0SCOHAX&A      AJ9"-0      HOHC      KOWCj 

Connecting  at  YOKOHAMA  -with  Steamers  for  SHANGEAE. 

"  GAELIC/'       "  OCEANIC/'       "  BELCIC," 

WILL    SAIL    FROM    SAN    FRANCISCO    AT     INTERVALS    OF    ABOUT    TWENTY    DAYS. 


Cabin  Plans  on  exhibition  and  Passage  Tickets  for  sale  at  No.  2    New  Mont- 
gomery Street. 

The  Saloons  and  Staterooms  of  the  Steamers  of  this  Line  are  located  amidship,  forward  of  the 
engines,  thus  securing  the  least  motion  and  the  best  ventilation. 

Prompt  attention  paid  to  Telegraphic  Reservations  of  Staterooms  or  Berths. 


(Dec.) 


Passage  Rates  as  follows,  subject  to  change : 


(1881.) 


Payable  in  U.  8.  Gold  Coin. 

*First  Class 
or 
Cabin. 

European 
Steerage. 

Chinese 
Steerage. 

Distances 
from 
Sin  Francisco. 

San  Francisco  to  Yokohama,  Japan.  .  .  . 

$250.00 

$  85.00 

$51.00 

4,800    miles. 

Hiogo,              "     .... 

270.00 

100.00 

56.00 

5,100 

Nagasaki,         "     .... 

290.00 

100.00 

62.00 

5,550 

Shanghae,    China.  .  . 

305.00 

100.00 

65.00 

6,000 

Hongkong,       "     .... 

300.00 

100.00 

51.00 

6,400 

Singapore,    India.  .  .  . 

380.00 

7,850 

Penang,            "     .... 

400.00 

8,250 

Calcutta,          "     .... 

450.00 

9.800 

CHILDREN  under  12  years  of  age,  one-half  rates;  under  5  years,  one-quarter  rates:  under  2  years,  free. 

SEEVANTS  accompanying  their  employers  will  be  charged  two-thirds  of  cabin  rate,  without  regard  to 
age  or  sex,  and  will  be  berthed  and  served  with  meals  according  to  ship's  regulations. 

250  Ibs.  baggage  allowed  each  adult  First-Class  or  Cabin  Passenger;  150  Ibs.  each  European  Steerage; 
100  Ibs  each  Chinese  Steerage;  proportionate  to  Children.  Excess  Baggage  charged  for  at  Ten  (10)  cents 
per  Ib. 

*y^r-  Round  Trip  Tickets,  good  for  twelve  months,  will  be  sold  at  a  reduction  of  12£  per  cent, 
from  regular  rates. 

An  allowance  of  20  per  cent,  on  return  passage  will  be  made  to  passengers  paying  full  fare  to  Japan 
or  China,  or  vice  versa,  who  re-embark  within  six  months  from  date  of  landing,  and  an  allowance  of  10 
per  cent,  to  those  who  return  within  twelve  months 

ROUND  TKIP  TICKETS  from  San  Francisco  to  Yokohama  and  return,  good  for  three  months,  at 
reduced  rates. 

FAMILIES  whose  fare  amounts  to  Jour  full  postages  will  be  allowed  7  per  cent,  reduction. 

EXCLUSIVE  USE  OF  STATEEOOMS  can  be  secured  by  the  payment  of  half-rate  for  extra  berths. 

For  freight  apply  to  Geo.  H.  Rice,  Freight  Agent,  at  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship 
Company's  Wharf,  or  at  No.  202  Market  Street,  Union  Block. 

T.  H.  GOODMAN,  G-en'l  Passenger  Agent. 
LELAND  STANFORD,  President. 


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